Antarctica - Ice Station Rescue Horizon


Antarctica - Ice Station Rescue

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I keep having these vivid dreams at the moment...

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..about the ice shelf breaking up,

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falling in crevasses and things like that.

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I remember I dreamt the other week

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that the pack ice was going out to sea

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and there was water

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and I was just on my own floating away and things like that.

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So I call this place home, in a weird way.

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I feel comfortable when I'm here.

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This is Halley VI in Antarctica,

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one of the most remote scientific research stations on the planet.

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In October 2016,

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the British Antarctic Survey invited me to document a world first -

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their attempt to relocate the entire station

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23km across a floating ice shelf

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because it's at risk from a huge nearby crevasse.

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Just getting to Halley was no simple task.

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I joined some of the other team members

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on the nearly 9,000 mile journey,

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which took an entire week,

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involving this enormous Russian cargo plane

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and days of severe weather delays.

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My name is Natalie Hewit and, as a film-maker,

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I've travelled to some of the most remote parts of the world...

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..but none of that had prepared me

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for my arrival on the white continent.

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As we soared towards the endless ice,

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I began to wonder what on earth I'd got myself into.

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I had no film crew,

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no backup team,

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no way to escape -

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just me and my camera.

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I was planning to spend three months

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living and filming amongst the team

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who had been tasked with moving Halley

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and as we arrived,

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I wondered how this tiny community at the end of the world

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would respond to being filmed by an outsider like me.

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Halley VI is made up of eight interconnecting modules.

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As well as science labs,

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it contains living accommodation for up to 32 people,

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a doctor's surgery, a canteen and even a gym.

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Everything you need to keep humans alive

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in one of the most inhospitable places on earth.

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It turned out that this was going to be the first time

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I'd slept in a bunk bed since I was a kid.

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Scientists have lived and worked at Halley for over 60 years,

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carrying out cutting edge research

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into some of the world's most pressing problems.

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It was from Halley that the hole in the ozone layer

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was discovered back in 1985.

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A breakthrough that led to sweeping changes

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in world environmental policy.

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But all of this needs to move

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because Halley sits on an ice shelf which is threatening to break up,

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potentially casting the station adrift on an iceberg.

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Piece by piece, almost 1,000 tonnes must be taken apart

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and towed 23km across the ice...

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..and the team have just three months during the southern summer

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to complete the project, before the 24-hour darkness

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and brutal storms of the Antarctic winter return.

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We were some of the last to arrive at Halley

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for the Antarctic summer season,

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a short window in the year

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where the sun doesn't set for over 100 days

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and temperatures briefly rise

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from the winter lows of minus 50 Centigrade.

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By the time we got there,

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work on decommissioning the station was already underway.

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-Hi, Natalie.

-Hello.

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Get on, Bob!

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-Are you staying outside?

-Er, yeah.

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When I first arrived,

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I was surprised to find that

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out of the 90 people on station this season,

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only four were scientists

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because, actually, most of the team,

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like mechanical facilities engineer Tom Clements,

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come south to help keep the station running.

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-Come in, come in.

-How did you get put in charge of this?

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Well, I spent 18 months down here, wintered, absolutely loved it,

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you know. Ready for the real world again

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and then they offered me a position

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managing the mechanical side of the Halley relocation project

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and you'd be a fool to turn that down, I think, you know?

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I love the place, I know it inside out,

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I know all the systems like the back of my hand

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and it's exciting and I enjoy it.

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I enjoy it, I love it. I do love it here.

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It doesn't feel like a job to me at the minute, it's just...

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It's life.

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Halley sits on the Brunt Ice Shelf,

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a huge slab of ice up to 250 metres thick

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that is slowly flowing off the Antarctic continent onto the sea

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at a rate of 400 metres per year.

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Cracks naturally appear in the ice during this process.

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The reason Halley needs to move lies just 6km away -

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a huge crevasse known as Chasm 1.

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Using radar and a network of GPS stations,

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glaciologist Jan De Rydt monitors

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exactly how quickly Chasm 1 is growing.

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The crevasse is actually there,

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but there is a little layer of snow

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at the surface that covers it up, basically.

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Today, Jan is taking a closer look at the crack near the very tip.

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Oh, what the hell?!

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No way. Look at this!

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It's huge! Jesus!

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Do you remember we drove over it?

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That was not too far from here.

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Impressive. It's beautiful.

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Are you going to film it as you approach?

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-Yeah. Is that OK?

-Yeah, it's absolutely fine.

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Clip that onto you.

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Nat, if you want to come in the middle of us...

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That will be trouble!

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OK. Just keep coming a little bit further

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and you've got a big step then.

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You got it?

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CHUCKLING

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-Cool, isn't it?

-What are you thinking, Jan?

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-It's big.

-Yeah?

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It's big, it's big.

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It's much wider than I thought it would be.

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Just from the surface, it's not obvious at all.

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Like, if you see the surface there,

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there's no sign of it

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and then you poke around and you find this.

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It's enormous. Knowing that this is 25km long...

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..that's incredible.

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At its widest, the chasm measures over 2km across

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and as it continues to grow, it will eventually cut Halley off

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from the rest of the continent and leave it stranded on an iceberg.

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So it is widening

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quite rapidly.

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It's widening about ten centimetres per day, which is that much.

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That's a lot.

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Is that quite fast?

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Yeah, that's serious. Yeah.

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That was brilliant.

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That was actually quite beautiful to see.

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We all have a certain affection for this chasm.

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We look at it every month.

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-Mixed feelings, Jan.

-Yeah, it's so close to home.

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With Halley's current site, otherwise known as Site VI,

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at risk of being cut-off by the chasm,

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a new location for the station has been chosen on the other side of it.

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Lying 23km away across the ice,

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Halley's new home has, perhaps unsurprisingly,

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been titled Site VI A.

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'Before the station can be taken apart,

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'the first task is to build temporary accommodation

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'so that we have somewhere to live whilst the move is underway.

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'Farmer, as he's known to his friends,

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'has just arrived as part of the plumbing team.'

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-So, Farmer...

-Yes?

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..tell me, what has your first day at work been like?

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It's a bit cold, but when you're working, you're warm.

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Yeah.

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-You've been complaining about the cold all day.

-No, I have not.

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You have, so you haven't done any work.

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-Is that true, Neil?

-It's 100% true.

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You only said you'd got a little bit warm

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about half an hour ago when the heating went on.

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So, Neil, this has been Farmer's first day at work?

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Yeah. You can tell. He's done ... all, all day.

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FARMER LAUGHS

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He's forgotten how to work, he's been on holidays for that long.

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'Like me, for many of the team

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'this is their first visit to Antarctica

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'and, for some, the isolation can take a bit of getting used to.'

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-I miss Tinder.

-And how long have you been here?

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Er, a week.

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So no more Tinder for 13 weeks?

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No Tinder for 13 weeks, yeah, until I get to South America.

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-And then what's going to happen?

-I'm going to go mental.

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Once complete, our new home consists of

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nothing more than shipping containers, some plywood

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and a collection of tents...

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..and it's up to station support assistant Sam Shreeves

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to help us settle in.

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So we've just got to make sure everything is clean, ready,

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set out nicely

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so they come in and everyone feels at home, you know?

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That's what we do.

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We're the homemakers... slash legends.

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Do you think it's an important job?

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Yeah.

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You know, we're the cogs in the big machine.

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We're not the shiny outer plating.

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We're not the thing people see and they go,

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"Oh, wow, that's a Lamborghini." We're the small nuts inside.

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If they took it out, it would all fall apart.

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What made you want to come

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and sort of do washing up and clean toilets?

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HE LAUGHS

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Thank you for describing my job

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in such brutally clear terms.

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Um, I don't know.

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I mean, I sort of wanted to come to the Antarctic.

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Yeah, thought I could do it.

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Tell a few jokes, wash a few plates, keep everything tidy,

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occasionally drive a Ski-Doo. That's what we do.

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Right. Welcome to the kitchen.

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The first job is to...

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turn everything on to get a little bit of warmth in the place.

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Olivier Hubert is one of the four chefs who cook five meals a day

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for the 90 people on station.

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I've been cooking all my life.

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I left school at 16, went to catering college.

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Then I went to work in a Michelin star restaurant.

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Michelin star cooking is all very well,

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but it takes its toll after a while,

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and also I just lost interest

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in spending hours doing fiddly little things on a plate.

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Also, four children happened,

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which made it, you know,

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a bit more difficult to manage the hours.

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How are they doing with you being away?

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I think they're doing all right.

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Lindsey, who is my 15-year-old daughter,

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my youngest daughter, I don't think she misses me at all.

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She'd just rather be there instead of me.

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Finlay might miss me a bit more, but he's a boy.

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They're more clingy, they're more needy.

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Also, I'm usually the one who takes him to play football...

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..and I think he enjoys having Daddy watching him,

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shouting all sorts of advice. I know nothing about football.

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But I shout a lot by the side.

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Like, "Great football."

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I've learned that's a fairly safe thing to say.

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Whatever happens, "Great football, Finnie." That works.

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Before Halley can be moved,

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it must first be emptied of all its residents and services.

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Then, the modules will be disconnected

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and separated from each other,

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before they are towed one by one to the new site.

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So...

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where's this going?

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-That's the new phone cable.

-OK.

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SHE CONTINUES SPEAKING

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For scientists like Carolyn Graves,

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it's crucial that her research can continue uninterrupted

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throughout the move,

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so all of the scientific equipment must be relocated

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out of the station and into temporary accommodation.

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We're moving the Dobson which we use to measure the concentration

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of ozone in the stratosphere.

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'It was measurements taken with the Dobson

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'that led to the discovery of the hole in the ozone layer

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'here at Halley in 1985...'

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It is probably the most iconic piece of science on the station.

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'..a breakthrough that was only possible

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'because of the decades of unbroken data

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'that had already been collected.'

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Is it quite stressful having to move?

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Stressful for Kev, because he's coordinating the science move.

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It's stressful for me because

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I'm supposed to keep working with it all winter and all next summer,

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so I want to be able to take measurements.

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After the effort of moving it once,

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this will all have to happen again in a few weeks' time

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to reinstall it at the new site.

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I grew up at military school,

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so I've made a hell of a lot of bunk beds.

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What was military school like?

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Oh, you know, pretty fun in a sort of brutal way.

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Marching to every meal, you know, church every day.

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You know? March, march, march,

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"Love Jesus" and all that fun stuff.

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It was all right, played a lot of sport, you know?

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Packed off when you're 11, it's... Yeah.

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Do you think that's where you got your sense of humour?

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HE LAUGHS

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No, I think it's from my quite strange dad.

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He's in the military, very professional at work.

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Quite odd at home.

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A couple of Christmases ago, we got him a Basil Brush hand puppet

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and he, for a while,

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would greet friends and talk to us basically only as Basil.

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So he would run out, grab Basil Brush,

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come in and we'd have to basically chat to Baz, as he called him.

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Is it strange sharing bunk beds with sort of grown men now?

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Probably if you're going to choose one thing

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that people might struggle with the most, it may well be that.

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The sort of... The fact you've got

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basically no personal space down here.

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And even if you mentally prepare,

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if you've never actually lived in that environment

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or grown up with it, it must be a bit tricky.

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Right, there is one bed successfully made.

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It's a bit of a fantasy world where,

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because you're so far away from anything...

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..there's not much you can do about whatever's going on at home.

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Erm, so it's quite liberating in a way.

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That's expert packing.

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Next to move are the communications team.

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Central to life at Halley,

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they keep track of every person and vehicle

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to make sure that we are all safe and accounted for.

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Yes, we're moving all of our day-to-day radio ops over there

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so that we can start decommissioning the office

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and the modules as a whole.

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'They're also in charge of keeping Halley connected

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'to the outside world.

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'Every bit of information going in or out of the station

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'passes through their control centre.'

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So, can you spy on people from here then?

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Well, you can see

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the IP address that they're looking at.

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You can't see the website that they're looking at,

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or anything that they're typing,

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but you can see how much data they're using

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and potentially what website

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or group of websites they're looking at.

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So, Facebook's pretty obvious.

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So we need to keep an eye on the uploads, the downloads

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so that there's always bandwidth available for science,

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especially the Met data.

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We have to upload that at a certain time every day -

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five, six times a day, depending -

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and the whole world gets to use that immediately.

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So, if Facebook is blocking it

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then that doesn't go down well with the world, yeah.

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And you're wintering, aren't you?

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-I am.

-So are you quite keen to see the move go successfully?

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Yeah, yeah, because obviously if it doesn't, then, you know,

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I might be living in a tin box for the winter

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or maybe not even that, depending on how it goes.

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But, you know, we're looking good.

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As all of the people, scientific equipment and services

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were moved out of the station,

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the mechanical team made a start on separating the modules.

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Is that supposed to happen?

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It's supposed to happen, this is a planned leak.

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The first of many.

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And that's our heating going off.

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Oof! Jesus, that's pungent. Eh?

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THEY LAUGH

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-I can nearly taste it.

-What pipe is that, Farmer?

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That is the soil pipe.

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Right. From the toilets?

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-Yes.

-It's not the one you want to be...

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It's not the one you want to be smelling.

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-You'll have to grab this one first.

-No problem, princess.

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Have you got it?

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'It's definitely going to be a tough year, like,

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'because the base isn't new any more.'

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It's designed to be taken apart and put back together again,

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but with a bit of age, there'll be plenty of problems.

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They haven't towed the first module yet,

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but if it falls through the ice or something, that's worst-case

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scenario, but I don't think that's going to...

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I'm sure they've probably already allowed for that.

0:20:090:20:12

After all, it's the British government,

0:20:120:20:15

they can always mobilise the Navy to come and get us.

0:20:150:20:17

Costing over £28 million to build,

0:20:210:20:24

Halley VI was a radical departure from previous base designs

0:20:240:20:27

and has won a whole host of architecture awards.

0:20:270:20:30

Built on giant skis,

0:20:320:20:33

it's the first-ever Antarctic station to be designed to move.

0:20:330:20:37

But this cutting edge strategy has never before been put to the test.

0:20:370:20:42

Basically, what we are going to do now is move this module

0:20:420:20:45

about four inches that way,

0:20:450:20:47

which enables us to get to all the fixings

0:20:470:20:50

on this connection here.

0:20:500:20:53

Once we've done that,

0:20:530:20:54

we can then get to all the rest of the cables

0:20:540:20:57

that we've not yet disconnected

0:20:570:20:58

and this module, then, is good to go.

0:20:580:21:01

The vehicles team have spent weeks

0:21:040:21:06

creating a specially prepared roadway

0:21:060:21:08

that's strong and smooth enough for the modules to be towed over.

0:21:080:21:11

As the preparations drew to a close,

0:21:180:21:20

it looked like the moment of truth was finally here.

0:21:200:21:23

We have one more meal and then we'll be ready to go.

0:21:230:21:27

CHATTER

0:21:290:21:32

But, as you very quickly learn in Antarctica,

0:21:440:21:46

if there's one thing you can't plan for, it's the weather.

0:21:460:21:50

The day that the first module was due to be towed,

0:21:520:21:55

a massive storm blew in.

0:21:550:21:57

With strong winds and heavy snow, work had to stop

0:21:570:22:01

and it was all hands on deck

0:22:010:22:02

to prevent our camp from being buried.

0:22:020:22:05

The module wasn't going anywhere.

0:22:110:22:13

The storm also obliterated the roadway

0:22:220:22:24

and covered it with snowdrifts,

0:22:240:22:27

making it impossible to tow the module safety.

0:22:270:22:30

So this machine is what's called a Mobile Master.

0:22:300:22:34

What it basically does is it picks up the snow

0:22:340:22:37

at the front and it moves the snow from side to side,

0:22:370:22:40

which, firstly, fills in any holes that are in the snow pack

0:22:400:22:44

and also it then knocks the air out of the snow

0:22:440:22:47

and when you take the air out of the snow, you make it a lot firmer

0:22:470:22:51

so it can carry the weight of the modules

0:22:510:22:53

and the machines that we're going to pull.

0:22:530:22:55

It's quite deep, the drifts, so it's taking a little bit of managing.

0:22:550:22:59

We won't get stuck. Hopefully!

0:23:000:23:02

I always say there's no point in getting stressed about the weather

0:23:040:23:07

because it's one of the few things we can't control,

0:23:070:23:10

so you just have to deal with what it throws at you.

0:23:100:23:12

-Life's not easy here?

-No, no,

0:23:130:23:16

life has its challenges and yesterday proved that,

0:23:160:23:19

you know, when we had a 24-hour blow and the snow's around your knees

0:23:190:23:23

and everything's wet through

0:23:230:23:25

and you have to dig the tent out, and all these sorts of things.

0:23:250:23:28

But we're the only chefs, carpenters,

0:23:280:23:31

managers and operators on the planet

0:23:310:23:33

that are lucky enough to be able to do that.

0:23:330:23:35

And that, to me, is just such an amazing opportunity.

0:23:350:23:40

People don't do that any more.

0:23:400:23:42

Certainly not farmers from Lancashire,

0:23:420:23:45

they don't get to do that,

0:23:450:23:47

and it's fantastic. I get paid to do these cool things, you know?

0:23:470:23:52

But, as soon as the roadway was ready to go,

0:24:050:24:08

there was another delay.

0:24:080:24:09

The RSS Ernest Shackleton is the lifeline of Halley

0:24:120:24:16

and makes its first visit to the station

0:24:160:24:19

at around Christmas time every year.

0:24:190:24:21

So, this is my Christmas hat.

0:24:240:24:26

This only comes on once a year, for Christmas Day.

0:24:260:24:28

It has the smiley face.

0:24:340:24:36

-And a bell?

-And a bell on the top.

0:24:390:24:42

Yeah, this is my Christmas Day hat.

0:24:420:24:44

It takes all of the vehicle operators

0:24:470:24:49

over a week of 24-hour shifts

0:24:490:24:51

to unload the ship's precious cargo,

0:24:510:24:54

so the tow of the first module had to be put on hold again.

0:24:540:24:58

The ship delivers everything the station needs

0:25:010:25:04

to run for the next 12 months.

0:25:040:25:06

From fuel to toilet rolls, to a year's worth of food,

0:25:060:25:10

including a whole tonne of frozen bacon.

0:25:100:25:13

This year, it's docked at an area of sea ice

0:25:160:25:18

that is only about two meters thick

0:25:180:25:20

and is therefore much more dangerous to work on

0:25:200:25:23

than the main part of the ice shelf.

0:25:230:25:25

The relief site is pretty stressful to choose.

0:25:250:25:30

We've got a lot of people working on the sea ice

0:25:300:25:32

that are kind of relying on the decision that you make

0:25:320:25:35

for them being safe.

0:25:350:25:37

The worst-case scenario is you lose a vehicle with operator.

0:25:390:25:43

Not so worried about losing a vehicle, cos they can be replaced,

0:25:430:25:47

but if you have an operator that you lose through the sea ice,

0:25:470:25:50

pretty slim chances of anybody surviving that.

0:25:500:25:53

There's no books written on this.

0:25:560:25:58

It's all a feel, so the more times you come down, the more feel,

0:25:580:26:01

the more confident you get.

0:26:010:26:03

If you get hackles on the back of your neck to start popping up,

0:26:050:26:08

then it's a good time to either get off the ice, the wind picks up.

0:26:080:26:11

If something doesn't feel right, don't question yourself.

0:26:110:26:14

If it doesn't feel right, get off the ice or change site.

0:26:140:26:17

Don't question yourself while you're stood on the ice.

0:26:170:26:20

Fresh goods, at last!

0:26:340:26:37

I've never been so excited to see a fresh pepper in my life.

0:26:380:26:40

People in the UK will be looking at that thinking,

0:26:420:26:45

"Yeah, OK, it's a pepper, what's so extraordinary about it?"

0:26:450:26:48

But when you haven't had any fresh fruit and veg

0:26:480:26:52

for the past few months, this is gold.

0:26:520:26:56

Yeah, your frame of mind changes here.

0:26:580:27:01

There's no money, it's a completely cashless society.

0:27:010:27:05

All your needs are catered for.

0:27:060:27:09

The greatest risk here is probably becoming institutionalised.

0:27:090:27:14

-Do you think that's possible?

-Oh definitely, yes.

0:27:160:27:19

In your case?

0:27:190:27:20

Well, I'm only here for a season,

0:27:200:27:23

but for repeat offenders who come here regularly,

0:27:230:27:26

it might be a real danger, yes.

0:27:260:27:29

Before I knew it,

0:27:290:27:30

I'd been in Antarctica for a month and it was time to celebrate.

0:27:300:27:35

So, today is the 25th of December 2016.

0:27:350:27:38

It's Christmas Day and this is

0:27:380:27:40

officially my first-ever white Christmas.

0:27:400:27:43

That's why I've had to come outside and sit in what's turned out to be

0:27:430:27:46

some absolutely beautiful evening weather.

0:27:460:27:49

I think it's probably about minus eight,

0:27:490:27:52

but it's beautifully still and the sun is sort of teasing us

0:27:520:27:56

by making it look like it might set any minute now.

0:27:560:28:00

We've had quite a few people working today,

0:28:010:28:03

quite a lot of the team are still doing ship's relief.

0:28:030:28:07

And so, we've put official Christmas on hold I think,

0:28:070:28:11

until later in the week when we'll get a big celebration together.

0:28:110:28:15

THEY CHEER

0:28:150:28:18

CHATTER

0:28:210:28:23

-Merry Christmas!

-Merry Christmas!

0:28:260:28:28

Finally, 18 days after it was originally due to move,

0:28:350:28:40

the time came for the first module to be towed.

0:28:400:28:43

It's a big thing for everybody. We'd like to get this moved.

0:28:450:28:48

And, you know, this is why we are down here.

0:28:480:28:50

This is what everybody's waiting for.

0:28:500:28:53

So we will get the two bulldozers at the back, and that is Bob and Phil,

0:28:530:28:57

so make sure they're sat on the ridges and don't pull up,

0:28:570:29:00

don't push down, just push.

0:29:000:29:03

Probably getting close to eight o'clock in the evening, PM.

0:29:050:29:08

One heck of a lot of preparation gone into tonight's work.

0:29:080:29:12

So sit in first gear, give her a bit of welly.

0:29:160:29:19

Just ease the throttles up while they're pushing

0:29:190:29:21

and hopefully she'll roll out from where she is now.

0:29:210:29:24

So, very excited.

0:29:250:29:26

You can feel it here.

0:29:260:29:28

Everyone is sort of quietly expectant, I think.

0:29:280:29:31

It's a bit like...

0:29:310:29:33

waiting for a birth, somehow.

0:29:330:29:35

It's that mixture of excitement and slight angst.

0:29:350:29:39

-Make sense?

-Yeah, like crystal.

0:29:390:29:42

-Happy?

-Yeah.

0:29:420:29:44

-Don't need a toilet stop?

-Yeah.

-Do you need another one?

0:29:440:29:46

-Yeah.

-THEY LAUGH

0:29:460:29:49

The biggest challenge for a move like this

0:29:490:29:51

is always going to be the roadway.

0:29:510:29:52

If we were pulling on tarmac with this sort of weight,

0:29:520:29:55

150 tonne, on wheels - not a problem whatsoever,

0:29:550:29:59

but we're pulling on material which is pretty uncertain.

0:29:590:30:03

The roadway has to be hard enough to take the pressure of the ski,

0:30:030:30:07

which I'm pretty sure it is,

0:30:070:30:08

but this will be the proof in the pudding right now,

0:30:080:30:10

in the next half an hour.

0:30:100:30:12

I don't get nervous.

0:30:130:30:14

I get a stressed every little now and then,

0:30:150:30:17

but I don't get nervous.

0:30:170:30:19

Let's get going.

0:30:200:30:21

Ready.

0:30:250:30:26

OK, Ed, Chrissie J,

0:30:260:30:28

just...put a little bit of torque on the system.

0:30:280:30:30

OK, guys. You want to start pushing, please.

0:30:360:30:39

Sweet. That's just what we wanted.

0:30:430:30:45

OK, keep it going.

0:30:450:30:47

OK, Ed, go up to two, please.

0:30:510:30:53

OK, guys, stop pushing at the back.

0:30:580:30:59

OK, swing around the corner there, Chrissie. Swing around the corner.

0:31:070:31:10

Yeah, keep going left, left, left.

0:31:140:31:16

-That's great, isn't it?

-Is that good to see?

0:31:190:31:21

Oh, yeah. Definitely, definitely.

0:31:210:31:23

One down, seven to go.

0:31:230:31:25

OK, Ed, we're going to go up to 2.5, please, bud,

0:31:310:31:34

at 1,500 rpm.

0:31:340:31:36

-That's brilliant.

-Yeah?

0:31:380:31:39

That is absolutely amazing, yeah.

0:31:390:31:41

The way it moves. It was so smooth.

0:31:410:31:43

So smooth.

0:31:440:31:45

Pretty awesome roadway here, gentlemen. She's hardly sinking.

0:31:460:31:49

You want to be Dead-eye Dick now, Ed, cos I'm following you.

0:32:210:32:24

I can't see anything, so you want to be straight down the line.

0:32:240:32:27

You don't want to give any twitches on the skis on the module.

0:32:270:32:30

I'm trying my best, but she's skewing a little bit.

0:32:310:32:34

Eddie...

0:32:340:32:36

down to two.

0:32:360:32:38

Now.

0:32:380:32:40

Yeah.

0:32:400:32:41

Still at 16?

0:32:410:32:43

Still at 16.

0:32:430:32:44

Three,

0:32:520:32:54

two,

0:32:540:32:55

one,

0:32:550:32:56

stop.

0:32:560:32:58

Good landing.

0:33:010:33:02

How was it for you, Ben?

0:33:030:33:04

Good. Pretty good all the way, really.

0:33:060:33:09

You look very happy, Ben.

0:33:100:33:11

I am happy. That was...

0:33:110:33:12

..a very successful tow.

0:33:140:33:15

Much, much better than I thought it was going to be.

0:33:150:33:17

I was always quietly confident,

0:33:170:33:19

but you can never be 100% confident

0:33:190:33:21

cos there are a million and one things that can go wrong -

0:33:210:33:24

snap a tow rope, shackle fall out.

0:33:240:33:27

You went faster than I expected.

0:33:270:33:29

We went faster than I expected.

0:33:290:33:31

So we were doing 5.7, maybe 6kph at one point.

0:33:320:33:36

I'm a happy man.

0:33:360:33:38

A very happy man.

0:33:380:33:39

If they all do that, I will be an extremely happy man

0:33:390:33:41

at the end of the season.

0:33:410:33:43

So the team ended 2016 with the first triumph under their belt.

0:33:440:33:49

ALL: Six, five, four,

0:33:490:33:52

three, two, one...

0:33:520:33:55

Happy New Year!

0:33:550:33:59

CHEERING AND LAUGHTER

0:33:590:34:02

And it wasn't long before the next module was on its way

0:34:030:34:06

to the new site.

0:34:060:34:07

Just 26 hours into the New Year,

0:34:200:34:23

the project was now ahead of schedule.

0:34:230:34:25

Meanwhile, back at the old site,

0:34:300:34:32

the scientific measurements carried on as usual in their temporary home.

0:34:320:34:36

So what are you doing today?

0:34:380:34:40

I am taking the three o'clock Dobson measurement for ozone,

0:34:400:34:45

so you can spin the table round to three o'clock.

0:34:450:34:47

So that the instrument is pointed approximately at the sun.

0:34:470:34:50

Well, what makes Halley special in the first place

0:34:510:34:54

is how long the record has been continuing for.

0:34:540:34:58

And that it's largely uninterrupted,

0:34:580:35:00

and that's what allows you to notice things like

0:35:000:35:02

the hole in the ozone layer,

0:35:020:35:03

because you have that long-term data set, that's stable and steady.

0:35:030:35:07

And so if you miss a whole summer,

0:35:080:35:10

you can't say for sure that...

0:35:100:35:11

..the ozone hole has or hasn't been growing,

0:35:130:35:15

just based on the other things.

0:35:150:35:16

So we've got about 310 Dobson units of ozone.

0:35:160:35:21

What does that mean?

0:35:230:35:24

So the ozone hole is defined as less than 200 Dobson units,

0:35:240:35:28

so we have 310 Dobson units,

0:35:280:35:32

so basically one and a half times as much ozone

0:35:320:35:34

as you would have if you had an open ozone hole.

0:35:340:35:37

Depending on who you believe, it's getting kind of...

0:35:370:35:41

..physically smaller and shorter in duration every year

0:35:420:35:44

since we've stopped producing CFCs.

0:35:440:35:47

But it's still there every year...

0:35:480:35:51

..which is why we wear so much sun cream at Halley.

0:35:530:35:55

It's like a beach holiday, minus the beach.

0:35:580:36:00

This is not like any other workplace

0:36:080:36:10

in that once you have done your day's work,

0:36:100:36:13

you don't go back home to your family, your friends, your house.

0:36:130:36:16

You're trapped here.

0:36:180:36:19

So, in a way, you sort of become some sort of extended,

0:36:220:36:28

vaguely dysfunctional family.

0:36:280:36:30

A hard day's work.

0:36:330:36:34

-Go on, Rob!

-Go on!

-Go on, Rob!

-Go on, Rob!

-Go on!

0:36:340:36:38

CHATTER AND LAUGHTER

0:36:390:36:41

-You're not watching that.

-Time is ours. Why not?

0:36:450:36:48

-The Vicar of Dibley?

-It's brilliant!

0:36:480:36:50

In early January, as the work to move Halley progressed,

0:36:570:37:01

I joined glaciologist Jan on a trip to investigate a new crevasse

0:37:010:37:05

which had recently been spotted in the ice shelf.

0:37:050:37:07

First noticed just over two months ago,

0:37:080:37:11

it was nicknamed the Halloween Crack,

0:37:110:37:13

after the inauspicious date of its discovery.

0:37:130:37:15

-So, Jan...

-Yeah?

0:37:170:37:19

..where are we going today?

0:37:190:37:21

We are going to...

0:37:210:37:22

..the Halloween Crack, which is a major rift in the Brunt Ice Shelf.

0:37:240:37:29

And only in October,

0:37:300:37:33

it's broken all the way through the surface,

0:37:330:37:36

and now it's growing pretty big. It's...

0:37:360:37:39

widening very rapidly.

0:37:390:37:42

About 40 centimetres a day, it's getting wider

0:37:420:37:46

and we just want to go and have a look at it.

0:37:460:37:50

Middle of October last year,

0:37:540:37:56

we were going up the N9 flag line, and we came across it then.

0:37:560:37:59

It was only about this wide,

0:37:590:38:00

with nice straight sides.

0:38:000:38:01

It was a bit of a surprise,

0:38:010:38:03

cos obviously that's one of our main travel routes

0:38:030:38:05

that we use to send heavy vehicles along.

0:38:050:38:07

When you think it's only really three months

0:38:070:38:09

since you could drive across it safely...

0:38:090:38:12

Yeah, it's pretty huge now.

0:38:120:38:13

I think you'd have to be quite optimistic

0:38:130:38:15

to try and get a Ski-Doo across.

0:38:150:38:17

Today is the first time that anyone has been

0:38:210:38:23

to see Halloween Crack face-to-face since it was discovered.

0:38:230:38:27

But as we arrived,

0:38:270:38:28

I had no idea how significant this trip would turn out to be.

0:38:280:38:32

The area around the crevasse is potentially unstable,

0:38:340:38:37

so, for safety reasons, we had to work roped together.

0:38:370:38:40

Get myself connected to a rope,

0:38:420:38:43

checking those boys are connected nicely.

0:38:430:38:45

We weren't allowed to go close to the edge of Halloween Crack,

0:38:480:38:51

so the only way to get a proper look was to use a drone.

0:38:510:38:54

As with Chasm 1,

0:38:590:39:01

it's up to Jan to keep tabs on how this crevasse might affect

0:39:010:39:04

the area surrounding Halley in the future.

0:39:040:39:06

In order to do this,

0:39:100:39:11

he wants to set up a time-lapse camera

0:39:110:39:13

to monitor how the crack is growing.

0:39:130:39:15

We will take a picture every hour for the next couple of months,

0:39:150:39:19

and then if we play these in sequence,

0:39:190:39:21

then hopefully we will be able to see the widening of the crack,

0:39:210:39:25

and also the way it sort of propagates,

0:39:250:39:27

but I hadn't expected it to form so rapidly, definitely not,

0:39:270:39:31

and I hadn't expected it to widen so quickly,

0:39:310:39:34

and grow at the rate it's growing at the moment,

0:39:340:39:38

so no, it is, I think it is... a surprise to a lot of us.

0:39:380:39:42

Yeah, yeah. They do seem to be quite excited back at Cambridge.

0:39:450:39:48

It is probably understandable.

0:39:480:39:49

It's quite an expensive base.

0:39:490:39:50

They've obviously spent a lot of money moving in once.

0:39:500:39:52

I imagine they don't want to have to spend that again.

0:39:520:39:55

In total, the British Antarctic Survey HQ back in Cambridge

0:39:560:40:00

will spend £11 million on the Halley move project.

0:40:000:40:03

We'll come back in a month or so, and check it out.

0:40:060:40:08

Looks a bit vulnerable from here.

0:40:110:40:12

JAN CHUCKLES

0:40:120:40:14

I'm sure it'll be all right.

0:40:140:40:16

People come down here, I think, to experience extremes,

0:40:240:40:27

and, you know, see how far they can push themselves,

0:40:270:40:29

and push their bodies and their minds and all that sort of stuff

0:40:290:40:32

cos it's a difficult environment down here.

0:40:320:40:34

You know, if you get a paper cut

0:40:340:40:36

and your finger's about to fall off, or, you know,

0:40:360:40:38

you accidentally head-butt a wall,

0:40:380:40:40

it's like two days before you can get anywhere, to a hospital.

0:40:400:40:43

If not more, like, the minimum's two days.

0:40:430:40:44

Yeah, I think that's part of the excitement.

0:40:440:40:46

Part of the thrill, maybe,

0:40:460:40:48

that you know that you are down here

0:40:480:40:51

and you are basically as far away from civilisation as you can be,

0:40:510:40:54

in a sense.

0:40:540:40:55

With the move going smoothly,

0:41:060:41:08

the mechanical teams were able to start recommissioning

0:41:080:41:10

some areas of the station.

0:41:100:41:12

Today, we are...

0:41:120:41:14

..installing the main waste line out from Halley Station.

0:41:150:41:18

This is a critical bit of kit for Halley.

0:41:200:41:23

We can get rid of all our waste water...

0:41:230:41:25

..grey water,

0:41:260:41:28

just all the waste, basically.

0:41:280:41:30

Yeah. That's it.

0:41:310:41:32

All of Halley's waste is separated

0:41:320:41:34

before the water is treated and then sent down this pipe,

0:41:340:41:38

and into a cavity in the ice shelf.

0:41:380:41:40

Once this is done, you know, we're in good stead for commissioning...

0:41:410:41:44

..because we can start filling all the tanks

0:41:450:41:48

and then we can start flushing all the systems...

0:41:480:41:50

-Does it feel like you're making progress?

-Oh, yeah, it does now.

0:41:500:41:53

Yeah, it was a bit slow for a few weeks and now it's...

0:41:530:41:56

We're flying.

0:41:560:41:57

-HE LAUGHS

-We're flying.

0:41:570:41:59

As we neared the middle of January,

0:42:030:42:05

the team faced their biggest challenge yet -

0:42:050:42:07

the move of the A module, or Big Red,

0:42:070:42:10

containing the canteen, gym,

0:42:100:42:12

and recreation area.

0:42:120:42:14

This is the heaviest single part of the station,

0:42:140:42:16

weighing in at over 200 tonnes.

0:42:160:42:18

It is also the heart of Halley.

0:42:200:42:23

We're pretty sure we can tow it, or I'm sure that we can tow it.

0:42:230:42:26

You'll soon find out on film if we don't,

0:42:270:42:29

cos you'll probably be back here interviewing me, saying,

0:42:290:42:32

"Why didn't it move?" But I'm pretty sure,

0:42:320:42:34

pretty confident she's going to move in a minute.

0:42:340:42:36

Bring me a beer when we get up that end,

0:42:390:42:41

cos it'll be a big relief for me.

0:42:410:42:42

Guys, don't look back.

0:42:430:42:44

Next stop, VI A.

0:42:440:42:46

1,700 rpm.

0:42:500:42:51

How does it feel?

0:44:550:44:56

I'm happy.

0:44:560:44:57

That's the big girl I wanted to get here and, now that's here,

0:44:570:45:00

it is all downhill from now on.

0:45:000:45:02

All the others are tested and proven.

0:45:020:45:04

I wasn't actually looking forward to it at all.

0:45:040:45:06

I was just putting a brave face on.

0:45:060:45:08

With the short Antarctic summer starting to run out,

0:45:130:45:17

the team battled on through worsening weather

0:45:170:45:19

to keep the move on track.

0:45:190:45:21

It was a stark reminder that soon most of the people on station

0:45:220:45:26

would be heading home,

0:45:260:45:28

leaving just 16 winter staff to keep Halley running

0:45:280:45:31

for the next eight months

0:45:310:45:33

in complete isolation

0:45:330:45:35

and almost constant darkness.

0:45:350:45:37

I can't wait for winter, though, cos then it'll be ours.

0:45:380:45:42

This will be kind of our home and our responsibility.

0:45:420:45:46

And every single person will be 100% needed, 100% of the time.

0:45:490:45:53

Our community, it's like a new family.

0:45:560:45:59

But just three days later, the team receive some devastating news.

0:46:100:46:15

The significance of the Halloween Crack was about to become clear,

0:46:150:46:19

as we discovered the effect it could have on the future of Halley.

0:46:190:46:23

So this afternoon we presented the decision

0:46:230:46:26

to the whole Halley team

0:46:260:46:28

that we weren't going to winter at the station this year,

0:46:280:46:31

'which is a, sort of, a really big decision for everyone here,

0:46:310:46:35

'who's very invested in the project'

0:46:350:46:38

and particularly a big decision for the incoming winterers,

0:46:380:46:41

who were planning to spend the next year or so of their lives

0:46:410:46:44

at the station.

0:46:440:46:45

It's gutting.

0:46:470:46:48

Absolutely gutting.

0:46:490:46:51

Erm...

0:46:520:46:53

But, whilst it doesn't help at this moment in time,

0:46:530:46:58

I do realise it is the right decision

0:46:580:47:01

and nobody relished in making it.

0:47:010:47:03

It was a bit of a tough one.

0:47:030:47:05

You've got to move on, but it's just going to suck for a bit.

0:47:060:47:10

The decision not to over winter was based on the premise that we can't

0:47:110:47:15

predict with enough certainty what's going to happen to the ice shelf

0:47:150:47:19

over the course of this winter.

0:47:190:47:20

That's on the recommendation of our glaciology and operations teams.

0:47:200:47:25

We know previously that the Chasm 1,

0:47:250:47:28

the whole reason that we're moving the station,

0:47:280:47:30

is relatively predictable

0:47:300:47:31

but with the emergence of the Halloween crack,

0:47:310:47:33

the interaction between those two different features on the ice shelf

0:47:330:47:37

is too complex for us to predict.

0:47:370:47:39

The concern is that when the Halloween Crack forms an iceberg,

0:47:400:47:45

it could destabilise the rest of the ice shelf

0:47:450:47:47

and potentially cause new cracks to appear.

0:47:470:47:50

It's this unpredictability,

0:47:520:47:54

combined with the near impossibility of rescuing people from Halley

0:47:540:47:58

during the winter months,

0:47:580:47:59

that has led to the difficult decision

0:47:590:48:02

to completely evacuate the station.

0:48:020:48:04

Delivering news of this to the rest of the station was probably

0:48:050:48:09

the least enjoyable job I've had to do in Antarctica so far.

0:48:090:48:13

It was a bitter pill to swallow, really.

0:48:130:48:17

We'd allowed for every physical problem to occur

0:48:170:48:21

which we could rectify.

0:48:210:48:23

We had contingency plans which we'd spent,

0:48:230:48:26

like, the whole summer in Cambridge, and the year before, planning

0:48:260:48:30

and, you know, worst case scenario

0:48:300:48:32

we were going to a skeleton team of people in the Drewry,

0:48:320:48:35

just to keep the station ticking over,

0:48:350:48:38

and that was the worst case,

0:48:380:48:40

and to be told that everyone's evacuating

0:48:400:48:42

and we're going to have to fully winterise the station,

0:48:420:48:44

it was like...

0:48:440:48:45

-HE SIGHS

-..no.

0:48:450:48:47

Cos we're not... At the time, we weren't ready for it...

0:48:470:48:51

..and it halted the project there and then.

0:48:520:48:54

It's been a bad day at the office today.

0:48:550:48:58

But while the team came to terms with the news, work had to continue,

0:49:120:49:16

and the following day, the last module made its move.

0:49:160:49:20

OK, Rob, just bring revs up now.

0:49:230:49:26

1,600.

0:49:270:49:28

This is BII, bedroom module two,

0:49:370:49:42

leaving site VI for site VI A for the last time.

0:49:420:49:46

1,500 rpm, Rob.

0:50:270:50:28

Three, two, one,

0:50:440:50:47

stop.

0:50:470:50:48

With the physical move now complete,

0:50:540:50:56

the team had to prepare Halley for being left all on her own

0:50:560:50:59

for the long, dark Antarctic winter.

0:50:590:51:02

One of the biggest implications of the station shutdown

0:51:030:51:07

is that for the first time in over 60 years

0:51:070:51:09

there will be a significant break in Halley's scientific data records.

0:51:090:51:13

This is a huge blow to the scientists across the globe

0:51:150:51:18

who rely on Halley's data to further our understanding

0:51:180:51:22

of the world around us.

0:51:220:51:23

It will also be the first time the equipment inside the modules

0:51:270:51:30

has been subjected to such prolonged, severe low temperatures.

0:51:300:51:34

I'll just lift it slightly.

0:51:400:51:41

He's good, isn't he?

0:51:440:51:46

We're supposed to be draining the washing machines -

0:51:460:51:48

winterising the washing machines.

0:51:480:51:50

Sure, that's what we're trying to get out of it, isn't it?

0:51:500:51:52

As they say in Ireland,

0:51:520:51:54

it's going to get queer cold in here in the winter.

0:51:540:51:56

What do you think about the station having to close for the winter?

0:51:560:51:59

Doesn't really matter to me or Neil.

0:51:590:52:02

It only matters to 13 or 14 people.

0:52:020:52:04

Ah, you were a bit upset.

0:52:040:52:06

I wasn't really. And, like, I know they go on about the science,

0:52:060:52:09

but to be honest,

0:52:090:52:11

I'm not being... Well, I am being ignorant.

0:52:110:52:13

I don't really care about the science.

0:52:130:52:15

NEIL LAUGHS

0:52:150:52:16

The scientists don't care about pipes.

0:52:160:52:18

We don't care about science, you know what I mean?

0:52:180:52:20

It's a two-way street, like.

0:52:200:52:22

Without the science that's done here, there might not be any Tinder.

0:52:230:52:26

There'll be no Tinder? Well, we'll have to get this place up

0:52:260:52:29

and running. I didn't realise this place affected me that much, like.

0:52:290:52:33

-Yeah?

-Yeah.

0:52:330:52:34

I think it'd be easier if they just ordered three new washing machines.

0:52:380:52:42

But just as the dust was beginning to settle,

0:52:460:52:49

there was another shock announcement.

0:52:490:52:52

This morning, we had sort of an emergency sitrep

0:52:520:52:57

and it turns out that

0:52:570:52:59

about two thirds of the base are going to be leaving tomorrow,

0:52:590:53:03

tomorrow morning, on the ship, so everybody's frantically packing,

0:53:030:53:07

loading tonnes of stuff into various coloured bags and so on.

0:53:070:53:11

It's all very complicated.

0:53:110:53:13

Do you think people are sad to be leaving?

0:53:150:53:18

I think some of them are,

0:53:180:53:19

and some of them are probably quite happy to go.

0:53:190:53:22

It's funny how...

0:53:220:53:25

you become attached to the place.

0:53:250:53:26

In many ways, it's a completely artificial thing here.

0:53:290:53:32

We're not really meant to be here as human beings.

0:53:330:53:37

And yet here we are, sort of leading

0:53:370:53:39

that sort of fantasy life on the ice.

0:53:390:53:41

There's an element of escapism in being here.

0:53:450:53:47

Did you come here to escape?

0:53:490:53:51

No, not at all, no.

0:53:510:53:53

I was perfectly happy where I was.

0:53:550:53:57

I just wanted to come and see what it was like.

0:53:570:53:59

It's a magical place.

0:54:020:54:03

It'd be a real shame if...

0:54:030:54:06

if there wasn't to be any more winters here.

0:54:060:54:09

OK.

0:54:140:54:15

Pavlova...

0:54:160:54:18

with caramel.

0:54:180:54:19

The following morning,

0:54:280:54:30

the first of the team started the long journey home,

0:54:300:54:33

less than two weeks after

0:54:330:54:35

we'd found out that Halley was to shut down.

0:54:350:54:37

I was surprised at how quickly things had started to happen

0:54:370:54:41

and it was a strange feeling to see

0:54:410:54:43

the evacuation of the station beginning.

0:54:430:54:45

Champion snorer!

0:54:450:54:46

Cheers.

0:54:460:54:47

-I will see you again.

-I'll catch you in the next cartoon.

0:54:470:54:50

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, yeah.

0:54:500:54:51

THEY CHEER

0:54:530:54:55

HORN TOOTS

0:54:550:54:58

For the few who were left behind,

0:55:110:55:13

one of the final jobs was to dismantle our temporary home.

0:55:130:55:16

As the walls came down, one thing remained -

0:55:160:55:20

a feeling of uncertainty about the future.

0:55:200:55:22

I'm really obviously excited to go home, but this is,

0:55:230:55:26

like I said before, this is partly my home here now.

0:55:260:55:28

It's really odd. I need to break that mould, I think,

0:55:280:55:30

and realise this is work and not home,

0:55:300:55:32

but I'm looking forward to going back.

0:55:320:55:35

100% looking forward to going back.

0:55:350:55:37

I will be back, but I can't miss another Christmas.

0:55:370:55:40

I miss it too much.

0:55:400:55:42

I've got too much I need to do for a couple of years

0:55:420:55:44

with Christmas time, like see my family, friends.

0:55:440:55:48

And stuff, so...

0:55:480:55:49

Yeah. Yeah, who knows? Who knows?

0:55:490:55:51

Yes, no.

0:55:510:55:53

50%.

0:55:530:55:54

Maybe. I don't know.

0:55:540:55:55

You live here every day and it loses its sort of like sense of appeal

0:55:570:56:00

when you're here, and then you've only got to be back in the UK

0:56:000:56:03

for two, three hours and you're like, "OK, yeah, I miss it now."

0:56:030:56:06

Like I've said again, before,

0:56:060:56:08

stresses of reality disappear down here

0:56:080:56:10

and they soon creep back up the second you step off a plane

0:56:100:56:14

and you have to queue for something...

0:56:140:56:16

and pay for it.

0:56:160:56:17

The plan is that next summer

0:56:240:56:26

a team will return and reopen Halley.

0:56:260:56:28

But at this stage, no-one knows whether the station can be occupied

0:56:310:56:35

through the next Antarctic winter.

0:56:350:56:37

I felt extremely privileged to have witnessed

0:56:400:56:42

the world's first ice station move.

0:56:420:56:45

But, for many, it felt bittersweet to be saying goodbye

0:56:450:56:48

to the place they'd worked so hard to save.

0:56:480:56:50

As they left Halley sitting cold and dark,

0:56:520:56:55

questions persisted about whether all of the effort put into the move

0:56:550:56:59

had been in vain.

0:56:590:57:00

Just as it was for the Antarctic explorers of old,

0:57:010:57:05

it seemed that Mother Nature had far outplayed our efforts to tame her.

0:57:050:57:09

Gradually, snow drifted back over the old site

0:57:120:57:15

and began to reclaim the landscape.

0:57:150:57:18

Even though Halley had a new home,

0:57:250:57:27

I couldn't help but feel a tinge of sadness for her.

0:57:270:57:30

What had once been a bustling hub of science and innovation

0:57:310:57:35

was now settling down for a long, cold winter alone,

0:57:350:57:38

with just the memories of the scientists, plumbers, chefs,

0:57:380:57:42

mechanics, bedmakers and engineers to keep her company.

0:57:420:57:46

And finally, it was time for me to leave.

0:57:530:57:56

'My time at Halley had taught me many things -

0:57:580:58:00

'why it's important to wear sun cream

0:58:000:58:02

'even when it's 20 degrees below zero

0:58:020:58:05

'and how to make time for at least five meals a day.'

0:58:050:58:07

Are you excited?

0:58:090:58:10

'But more than that,

0:58:100:58:11

'it had shown me how the scientific research

0:58:110:58:13

'that happens at the end of the earth

0:58:130:58:15

'simply isn't possible without a whole community to support it.

0:58:150:58:19

'For now, we can only watch and wait as nature decides

0:58:200:58:24

'what the future of that community will be.'

0:58:240:58:26

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