Lost Land of the Jaguar Lost Land of the Jaguar


Lost Land of the Jaguar

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Guyana, South America.

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A land covered in rainforest

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that's unexplored and under threat.

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If we're concerned about species lost,

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we should be concerned about keeping the forests intact.

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For the last three weeks, an international team of scientists and film-makers

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has been cataloguing the animals that hide in this wilderness.

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It's one of the most spectacular places on the planet.

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They're discovering it's one of the world's richest and most pristine rainforests.

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(Fantastic...)

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The diversity must be absolutely incredible.

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It's hard to think that this could disappear.

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It really needs to be preserved.

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Now the team has split up on different missions.

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Gordon and George are travelling to the headwaters

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of a remote river where the animals are rumoured to show little fear of man.

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Oh, wow!

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They could really mess this area up in a very short space of time, and that's terrifying.

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Justine is in search of one of the planet's strangest animals.

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And the climbing team is attempting the first ascent of a remote mountain.

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I don't like this.

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Oh, God!

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Steve Backshall is finding it tough.

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Last night, they camped 115 metres off the ground, suspended in space.

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I'm starting to think whether I really am capable of this,

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whether it really is something I should be trying to do.

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Guyana, the size of Great Britain.

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It's one of the few tropical countries where most of the rainforest is still intact.

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Just over the border in Venezuela,

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the trees meet an extraordinary range

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of table top mountains.

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The climbing team spent the night perched high on this rock face.

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Getting out of bed on the wrong side here

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is not an option.

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Hello, mate.

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Bit scary.

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This would have to be one of the most glorious places I've ever woken up.

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The view's extraordinary - you can see all the way to Brazil.

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There are wisps of cloud below us, and the light is beautiful.

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The summits of these mountains have been isolated for tens of millions of years.

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They're a lost kingdom of strange animals and plants.

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No-one has ever climbed Mount Upuigma before.

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If they reach the top, they hope to discover new species.

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I hope that we make a lot more progress than we did yesterday - we were very slow yesterday.

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The less time we can spend today, the more time we have on top

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to go finding animals, and that's what we're here for.

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Steve's an accomplished climber,

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but to keep up with his world class team, he's having to raise his game.

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Ivan Calderon is a Venezuelan mountain specialist.

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It's always an adventure climbing.

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You never know what's going on in the next step.

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John Arran is one of Britain's best climbers.

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See you, chaps.

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Filming the attempt is a veteran of over 60 climbing films, Keith Partridge.

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It's not the sort of place to start freaking out, really.

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It's the sort of place a lot of people might freak out,

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but you certainly don't want that to happen, to be honest.

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Ahead of them, a climb the height of Canary Wharf.

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Steve's leading the first pitch of the day.

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All this gear, and I'll probably get up ten metres and get scared and come back down again.

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It's going to be a total waste!

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-That's the spirit, Steve!

-Yeah.

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It's a risky, responsible job to place the protection wherever physically possible.

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I'm going to get rid of that one out there, and put it in here.

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-If you're sure it's a good 'un.

-Yeah, it is.

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The metal cams are wedged in the rock to hold the safety rope.

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Every step is a step into the unknown.

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Steve, what's it look like above?

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It's very difficult to tell, John, but...

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It certainly doesn't look like the kind of thing you'd climb for fun.

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As a climber, Steve wants to be the first to scale this mountain.

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As a naturalist, he wants to find the animals living on its summit.

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No scientists have spent any time on top of Mount Upuigma.

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Two did arrive by helicopter,

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but after a few hours, deemed the terrain too dangerous to stay.

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As the climbing becomes more treacherous, John takes the lead.

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Steve, just above the belay, on the right,

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there is a loose boulder, a really dangerous, large boulder, right above Ivan.

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Whatever you do, don't touch it. Over.

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I've got this great big flake here...

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..which is ready to go.

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It's the size of a fridge freezer.

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If it came off...

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Oh, God, I don't want to think about what would happen if it came off.

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Shattered boulders far below lie silent witness to the unreliable rock face.

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STEVE PANTS

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How the hell am I going to get round that?

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Oh, God...

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Oh, God, that's loose, too.

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Oh, shoot.

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STEVE PANTS HEAVILY

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Take in, John!

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(Please don't go, please don't go, please don't go...)

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Oh, Jeez!

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Oh, I can honestly say that's one of the scariest things I've ever done.

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The thing about it, Steve, this is not a good position to be either, so...

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On you come, boyo.

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Cameraman Keith is also in a precarious position.

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-Are you on something loose too?

-I'm not on anything, that's the thing.

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All right...

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Oh, God!

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(I don't like this...)

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Over the border stretches the vast jungle of Guyana.

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The country wants to keep its forests intact.

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But it's a poor nation, and timber raises much-needed cash.

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Team members Gordon Buchanan and George McGavin are heading

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to an area that is today remote, but could soon be opened up for logging.

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Their destination, the headwaters of the remote river Rewa.

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Ahead of them, mile after mile of ferocious rapids.

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Wow...

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Well, that's quite fast.

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It is tough, just getting your head round this concept

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of using the river as a means of getting around.

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And then suddenly, you hit this big barrier,

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and if we want to go on, we've got to do some heavy grafting to get over.

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The wildlife of the upper reaches is protected

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by these treacherous falls.

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The few fishermen that have ventured past

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have returned with stories of animals that show little fear of man.

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This is the point where you work out exactly what you need

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and what you don't need.

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We've got three boats, three engines, all the fuel,

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all the food, all the kit...

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It's a lot of stuff...a lot of stuff.

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They're not the only ones trying to climb the cascades.

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There are literally tens of thousands of small fish here...

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And they're all heading - this is a holding area -

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they're all heading up this tiny crack here,

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it's the only bit on the falls which they can actually leap up...

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I've never seen anything like it.

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Well, you wouldn't starve here!

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Wow... Look at that!

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That is just unreal.

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Poor things, they're just absolutely pooped.

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George and Gordon are faring little better.

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Their boat's being dragged back against the current.

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If it flips, they'll lose their kit.

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The team battle to regain control.

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Somehow, they manage to hold on.

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It was very deep there - really deep.

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You'd be amazed at how strong it was.

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You think you're in control,

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then suddenly, the current just takes the boat...

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Pphwoof!

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Yeah, you really have to be careful out there.

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There are three sets of falls.

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Every item of kit must be hauled over land.

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The support team consists of an ex-military medic...

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..one cook...

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five boat drivers and a jungle guide.

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Who's got a machete?

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This is exactly similar to what WE have been doing, actually.

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Carrying heavy loads of food and boats up and down the jungle.

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This is very similar.

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Some of the smaller worker ants are hitching a ride.

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Because there are small flies, who fly over the swarm here,

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and they actually try to lay their eggs in the heads of the ants

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who are holding a load.

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And so what's involved is this very smart trick

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where the very smaller workers actually sit on the leaf load

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and fend off the flies as they come in, so it's a really smart trick.

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And if you see an ant which has had a fly egg in its head,

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the fly egg hatches and grows inside the head, and eventually,

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the ant's head just falls off - just drops on the ground and rolls away,

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and a fly hatches out of it.

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That's the last of the kit.

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So only three boats now.

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And we're done... in more ways than one.

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It's the hottest part of the day, and the worst job is still to come.

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Dehydration and exhaustion are a real danger.

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He's just awesome to watch...

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Like a spider just scampering up the wall.

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John Arran is a legend in the climbing world,

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but even he is finding it tough.

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Looks like one or two hard moves, and then it's done.

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But they could be quite hard.

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That's a bit loose.

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Is it within my grade?

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Yeah...

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But not by much.

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Steve has climbed some of the world's highest mountains,

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but this first ascent of Mount Upuigma

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is pushing his technical skill and stamina to the limit.

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Oh, God... That is the move.

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Got no foothold...

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Oh, no!

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You all right, Steve?

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Just came off... Sorry, John.

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Can you get on again?

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Ha ha(!)

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It's impossible for him to climb up the rope with his bare hands.

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For the moment, he's well and truly stuck...

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..250 metres up.

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On three...

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One, two...

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They've been dragging kit through the forest for eight hours -

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they've saved the worst until last.

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It's a good one. Here's the top.

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Steady, steady, steady...

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Wait, wait, wait, wait...

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Whoa, whoa, whoa.

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At last... They've made it!

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Yay!

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Reaching paradise was never going to be easy.

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Straight away, this river seems rich in wildlife.

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Was that what I thought it was?

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-A giant otter.

-Yeah, yeah, right there.

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Down it comes, lovely.

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Look... There they are! Oh, fantastic.

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Look, there's three of them!

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Giant otters make a beeline for the water to check out the strangers.

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So what, we're only two hours on the Rewa,

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-we're already seeing big, classy animals.

-Yeah.

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Absolutely. This is really unspoilt.

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What a thrill to be...what, 15 feet from a giant otter.

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None of the animals seem concerned about the newcomers.

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Bit forward, bit further forward.

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Capybara! The world's largest rodent,

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in this world of giant animals.

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That is the biggest rodent, it's about the size of a small dog.

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-Big dog!

-The size of a big dog.

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-He seems incredibly relaxed, doesn't he?

-He's sweet!

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We were very close to him, actually,

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and he seemed pretty unconcerned.

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See, round every corner is a surprise.

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Macaws.

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That's the first time I've seen them in full colour in the sun,

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because they're always flying overhead, so all you see is a dark shape.

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If you don't actually see them in the sun, you don't get that fantastic blue and gold.

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They are stunning...

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Really beautiful.

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Wingspan about that... about that, Gordon?

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Yeah, yeah. They're big.

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-Big birds.

-They're a parrot...

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parrot species, and it's the one that pirates

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most frequently have on their shoulders in cartoons.

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-Arrr, Gordon lad, ha!

-They don't speak.

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Since George and Gordon visited this area,

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plans have been announced to log some of the trees in the forest.

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The future of the wildlife is now uncertain.

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Have you got it, Gordon?

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They could be the last biologists to record the animals

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in the forest's pristine state.

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As they journey deeper, they hope to find

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some of Guyana's most impressive creatures -

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powerful eagles, big cats, giant snakes.

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Now I'm in a real quandary.

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Steve is still dangling 250 metres up...

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in thin air.

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The team is preparing to get him back on the rock face.

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He's handed a device to help him climb back up the rope.

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OK, here it comes. Mind your hands as well,

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take your hands away from the blue hook.

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Mind your head. Here she comes.

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How does that work?

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Right, what you do is you open...take it off.

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Lift the red up a little bit. Pull it like you're prising it apart.

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That's it. Then spin it,

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clip it round the rope.

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-Right, does that work?

-It does.

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Thank God for you!

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OK...

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As you stand up, pull the down side of the rope upwards.

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That rope, pull it up when you stand up.

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-You'll automatically go through the mini-traction.

-Ah, right, got you.

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Pull it up around the pulley.

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Yeah, that's the baby!

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Thanks, mate.

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Steve's troubles aren't over yet.

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The safety rope is the team's lifeline.

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They must avoid it snagging on the sharp rocks.

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The rope's rubbing really, really badly above me.

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Ooh!

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That's going to ping.

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I'm sorry, Keith, I might swing into you if that happens.

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No problem. I'm well anchored.

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Steve must make his moves with the utmost care.

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Ahhhh...

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You're clear now, mate.

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Everything's cool.

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Well done.

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They can't afford another setback.

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The more time they spend climbing, the less time they'll have to explore on top.

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But there's no guarantee they'll even make it.

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270 miles to the south-east, forest gives way to natural grasslands.

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Here, jungle wildlife shares space

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with the cattle from a few remote ranches.

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Camerawoman Justine Evans is on her mission to find the creatures which live here.

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Look at that!

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Beautiful.

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We've got marsh around here. Some of it's quite deep.

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The horses can cross it really easily,

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but for us it's a real pain, wading through all this water all the time.

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It's such a great way to get about.

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She's heading to the shade of the forested islands that pepper the landscape.

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Trying to find a way through this so I can get to the top

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to see if I can get a view of some howler monkeys that are supposed to be up here.

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Lots of gnawing, signs of gnawing going on here.

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You can see up here... That looks really like monkey damage to me.

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I don't know about howlers.

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Maybe something like squirrel monkeys.

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Well, that's a good sign.

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Definitely monkeys around here. It looks quite fresh, this, as well.

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After an hour of searching, she discovers the hideout

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of a colony of bats that feed only on blood - vampires.

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Hmm!

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They've got their echo-locating...

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They've got their leaf noses and big ears.

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They're vampire bats at the back. Oh... Wow!

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They are the stuff of nightmares, aren't they?

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Vampire bats are perfectly designed to feed on blood.

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Razor-sharp teeth pierce the skin,

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and two channels under the tongue help draw it up.

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Whoa!

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I don't like the idea of falling asleep out on the savannah

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and having one of those crawling up onto me and licking my blood.

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You can see where they've been defecating down the wall.

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That will all be blood.

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Whoa...

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A healthy population of vampire bats signals

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there are plenty of animals to feed on.

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Tonight, Justine will camp out on the grassland.

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Tomorrow at dawn, she starts her search for the savannah's strangest creature - the giant anteater.

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It's going to be a rough night.

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So we've only got one tent that's waterproof, have we?

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The tents have got no outer sheets...no way of holding them down.

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It's all a disaster.

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Everything is in here.

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I don't know what we're gonna do when it pours with rain. We can't all sleep in here.

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We're just gonna have to hide away for a while.

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THUNDER CRACKS

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Another dawn breaks on Mount Upuigma.

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Last night, the climbing team found a cave high on the rock face.

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OK, people. Coffee is ready.

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Don't spill it, please... Brilliant.

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John and I have just popped out.

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First of all, we can see what seems like the top,

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but we've just had a hummingbird come and hang

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about a foot in front of my face...

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cos they've never seen people before. They're so inquisitive.

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And now, there's a flock of parakeets who've come to check us out as well.

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And that sound is the swifts... This place is unreal!

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Just swooping right in close to our heads.

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The noise is almost like a kite being powered up.

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Shhhooo...

0:27:030:27:05

You can hear them chirping away.

0:27:050:27:08

BIRDS CHIRP AND SING

0:27:080:27:12

I'm getting rather excited here.

0:27:120:27:15

There's also a little bug here, and I have absolutely no idea what it is.

0:27:150:27:20

With such a wealth of wildlife on the cliff face,

0:27:220:27:24

the prospects for the top are richer still.

0:27:240:27:28

Animals are pretty smart.

0:27:350:27:38

They don't come out in the rain. Even insects don't come out in the rain.

0:27:380:27:42

We're gonna have to sit and wait it out, unfortunately.

0:27:420:27:46

But we've got so few days here

0:27:460:27:48

that we've lost a day, effectively, just because of the rain.

0:27:480:27:52

In this untouched forest, they had been hoping to find

0:27:520:27:56

Guyana's top predators - anaconda, jaguar and harpy eagle.

0:27:560:28:02

Just when I said it couldn't get any worse...

0:28:020:28:05

the porridge is burnt!

0:28:050:28:08

That's not good for a Scotsman, is it, burnt porridge? Mmm...

0:28:080:28:13

The rain's eased off a bit. Yeah, it has.

0:28:130:28:16

That's good. It's a bit annoying, because peak jaguar time is...

0:28:160:28:22

-eight until sort of ten.

-And it's now...?

-It's now nearly ten.

0:28:220:28:28

Despite the delay, Gordon decides to take his chances.

0:28:280:28:33

Ah, a gasteracantha spider!

0:28:330:28:37

I nearly plonked myself on that. This is a fantastic spider.

0:28:370:28:43

It's got these amazing spines in the abdomen. It's quite hard, actually.

0:28:430:28:47

If you were to sit on that, actually,

0:28:470:28:49

it would be quite painful.

0:28:490:28:51

Very heavily armed with spines.

0:28:510:28:53

In search of the elusive jaguar.

0:28:570:29:00

The heavy rains have swollen the river,

0:29:040:29:06

and most animals have retreated into the forest - except one...

0:29:060:29:11

the normally nocturnal pacca.

0:29:110:29:13

It's a fairly large rodent...

0:29:160:29:19

quite commonly found, but not during the day.

0:29:210:29:25

These things could be taken

0:29:250:29:27

by certainly an anaconda round here...jaguar...

0:29:270:29:32

Lots of things eat them.

0:29:320:29:35

They should be spending the days underground, the whole family group,

0:29:360:29:41

and then they come out and about at nighttime,

0:29:410:29:44

but this one's been scared out by something.

0:29:440:29:47

Come on, Mr Pacca.

0:29:470:29:50

Get out of there.

0:29:500:29:53

Because a slippery, muddy bank

0:29:530:29:55

on the side of a river is not a good place...

0:29:550:29:58

for a plump pacca to be.

0:29:580:30:02

Justine has enlisted the help of a local cattle rancher in her search for giant anteaters.

0:30:140:30:19

He thinks there's one roaming this area.

0:30:250:30:28

Shall we go and tie up over there?

0:30:300:30:32

This is interesting.

0:30:350:30:36

You can see where this termite nest has had the top knocked off it,

0:30:360:30:41

and it's definitely an anteater that's done this.

0:30:410:30:44

It looks like a good area. Lots of termite nests here.

0:30:440:30:48

Orvin's spotted one.

0:30:480:30:50

But the anteater has sensed them.

0:30:550:30:58

Made too much noise.

0:31:000:31:02

Stuck in a bog!

0:31:050:31:06

And off he goes.

0:31:080:31:09

Right.

0:31:090:31:12

Giant anteaters have bad eyesight but a good sense of smell.

0:31:190:31:24

She must approach quietly downwind.

0:31:240:31:27

Fantastic!

0:31:300:31:32

It's just really fascinating to see how it's using this landscape.

0:31:460:31:50

It's just specialised with what this landscape has to offer,

0:31:500:31:55

which is lots of ants and lots of termites.

0:31:550:31:58

It's just perfect for it.

0:31:580:31:59

Giant anteaters have no teeth, but their elongated heads

0:31:590:32:05

hide a 60cm tongue covered in sticky saliva.

0:32:050:32:08

They're just like aliens - just bizarre looking.

0:32:080:32:12

It's feeding on something now. It's got its head right down in the grass.

0:32:130:32:18

It's got its tongue and it's sticking it down the holes,

0:32:180:32:21

All the termites get stuck on the tongue

0:32:210:32:23

and they just lap up as many as they can.

0:32:230:32:26

They're only walking on their three main toes, which are curled under,

0:32:330:32:38

so they only pull the claws out when they're actually digging.

0:32:380:32:41

They're basically walking on their knuckles.

0:32:410:32:44

Which just looks weird!

0:32:440:32:46

They're all together quite strange - real specialists.

0:32:460:32:51

This discovery marks the end of Justine's journey.

0:32:530:32:56

Tomorrow, she must head home.

0:32:560:32:58

It's great to see a giant anteater. First time ever!

0:32:590:33:03

First time I've got a shot. First time I've ever seen one. Brilliant!

0:33:030:33:07

After three days of relentless climbing,

0:33:240:33:27

Steve is just 30 metres from the top, but it's not over yet.

0:33:270:33:31

I'm actually not sure how I'm gonna tackle that.

0:33:330:33:36

Got a foothold there, but that's another that might peel off.

0:33:410:33:45

Oh, God!

0:33:450:33:46

MAN: Well done.

0:33:580:34:00

I think I can see the top!

0:34:020:34:04

The next of it's a nasty bit.

0:34:160:34:18

Oh, dear! That's all gonna come off.

0:34:220:34:24

Oh, God!

0:34:280:34:31

He's almost there but, in this final push,

0:34:310:34:35

he's having to cling on to loose soil and roots.

0:34:350:34:38

Go on. Good.

0:34:420:34:44

Go on. Excellent.

0:34:460:34:49

Hey-heeeey!

0:34:490:34:51

Nice one, Steve!

0:34:510:34:53

Yes!

0:34:540:34:56

Ah! Oh, fantastic!

0:34:560:35:00

Steve's work as a climber is done.

0:35:040:35:07

Now he must break through the thick wall of vegetation,

0:35:070:35:10

before he can start his search for wildlife on the summit.

0:35:100:35:14

Gordon and George are discovering why it's called a rainforest.

0:35:300:35:35

I'm wet, I'm cold, I'm hungry, and I'm tired.

0:35:540:36:00

Are you in pain anywhere?

0:36:000:36:01

No, I'm not. I'm pain free.

0:36:010:36:03

Well, that's all right.

0:36:030:36:04

At least I've got my health.

0:36:040:36:06

THEY CHUCKLE

0:36:060:36:09

Well, it is a rainforest.

0:36:090:36:11

80 inches of rain a month.

0:36:110:36:13

It could rain like this all day.

0:36:130:36:14

It could easily rain like this for several days.

0:36:140:36:17

My hammock's gonna feel very comfortable tonight.

0:36:170:36:20

You're assuming you'll get into it.

0:36:210:36:23

What I'd give for a nice warm bed and a cup of coffee.

0:36:250:36:30

George is taking the opportunity to catch up on cataloguing his insects.

0:36:400:36:45

Despite the fact that we've had bad luck and we've had a lot of rain

0:36:470:36:51

and a lot of problems, it's still an enormous thrill

0:36:510:36:56

to be in an area for the first time

0:36:560:36:58

which hasn't been collected by anybody.

0:36:580:37:01

So, all of the stuff I collect, it'll be a first for this area.

0:37:010:37:05

On top of Mount Upuigma, Steve is also making new discoveries.

0:37:120:37:17

Look at this!

0:37:200:37:22

We've popped out into a moss, bromeliad, fern forest.

0:37:220:37:28

This really is the lost world!

0:37:280:37:31

As the rest of the team searches for animals,

0:37:430:37:45

Steve is exploring a rocky shelf above.

0:37:450:37:49

They're running in tracks.

0:37:510:37:53

You can see there's almost like roads.

0:37:530:37:56

These here are bird prints.

0:37:570:38:00

But these are definitely mammal prints.

0:38:010:38:07

Kind of polecat.

0:38:070:38:10

A medium-sized mustelid perhaps,

0:38:100:38:13

something from the weasel family.

0:38:130:38:15

Which means there are mammals up here.

0:38:150:38:17

If we find them, they're almost certain to be a new species.

0:38:180:38:23

They have just three days to track down the mystery mammal.

0:38:250:38:29

Well done. Who found it?

0:38:340:38:36

It was just lucky. Be careful, he's very jumpy.

0:38:360:38:39

Look at that underside.

0:38:390:38:41

Beautiful colours. Ooh!

0:38:410:38:43

Good catch.

0:38:430:38:46

What are you? I'm gonna have to hold him still like that.

0:38:460:38:49

I think what's particularly special about this frog is

0:38:490:38:52

I've not seen it in any of the guides or any of the textbooks for the frogs of this area.

0:38:520:38:57

What's particularly beautiful, if you look at the underside,

0:38:570:39:00

quite dull on top, but underneath, the belly,

0:39:000:39:05

and the underside of the pads, look at those colours.

0:39:050:39:07

That's really quite dramatic, isn't it?

0:39:070:39:10

Unfortunately, it's very difficult to name a new species

0:39:100:39:13

without taking it back to a museum and running all sorts of tests on it,

0:39:130:39:17

and to do that, we'd have to kill it, which I'm not prepared to do.

0:39:170:39:20

So, I'm gonna put it back where it belongs, in this bromeliad here.

0:39:200:39:24

Unidentified frogs, unknown footprints.

0:39:260:39:30

Who knows what else the mountain holds?

0:39:300:39:32

It's been a frustrating day for George and Gordon.

0:39:340:39:37

But at least the rain has stopped.

0:39:370:39:39

I have to say this is not the sharpest tool in the kit.

0:39:390:39:43

OK, onions done.

0:39:430:39:45

Potatoes?

0:39:450:39:46

I've been fantasising about a slow-roasted lamb shank

0:39:480:39:52

for most of last week.

0:39:520:39:55

Before dinner, George has important work to do.

0:39:570:40:01

After rain, insects come out.

0:40:010:40:05

This is the first ultra-violet trap that anyone's ever set in this area.

0:40:050:40:09

What on earth...? I've never seen that before.

0:40:190:40:22

That thing there is a very strange family of bug.

0:40:220:40:26

It's not much recorded.

0:40:260:40:28

How many things are here? I mean...

0:40:280:40:30

200 species easily.

0:40:310:40:34

I think it'd be safe to say that at least 5%, if not 10% of them...

0:40:340:40:39

..may be undescribed.

0:40:410:40:43

That's the fact of it.

0:40:430:40:44

So if we could save all the forests in hot countries like Guyana,

0:40:440:40:51

then you would immediately save over 50% of all the world's species.

0:40:510:40:57

So that surely is worth doing.

0:40:570:41:00

Look at that!

0:41:020:41:04

That is just stonkingly beautiful.

0:41:040:41:07

This pale, ivory-coloured moth.

0:41:070:41:10

Yet at the right angle, you see

0:41:100:41:12

these beautiful little golden beads all round the edge there.

0:41:120:41:17

That's just...

0:41:170:41:19

That's incredible.

0:41:190:41:21

This is a monster! I've never seen this.

0:41:210:41:23

Look at the size of this guy! Whoa!

0:41:230:41:26

That is a mole cricket and a half!

0:41:280:41:31

That's an absolute beauty.

0:41:310:41:35

I'm in my element here and it makes all the portaging

0:41:350:41:41

and the sweating...

0:41:410:41:42

It makes it all worthwhile.

0:41:430:41:45

George must get some rest.

0:41:470:41:49

He needs to be up early to search for the giant anaconda.

0:41:490:41:53

On the top of Mount Upuigma,

0:42:010:42:03

the climbers spent the night sheltering under an overhang.

0:42:030:42:07

Now they're preparing for another day searching for animals.

0:42:070:42:11

All this climbing takes quite a toll on your hands.

0:42:140:42:18

You just tend to get nasty, kind of, blisters,

0:42:180:42:22

particularly in the points where the ropes rub through your fingers.

0:42:220:42:26

MAN: Does it hurt?

0:42:280:42:30

Yes.

0:42:300:42:31

It's not too bad.

0:42:330:42:34

Hundreds of swifts are feeding above,

0:42:390:42:41

watched on by their predators, falcons.

0:42:410:42:44

From the second we reached the top of the climb,

0:42:550:42:57

these calls have been in our ears the entire time.

0:42:570:43:00

To begin with, we thought it was a bat falcon, which is quite common.

0:43:000:43:03

But those don't occur at anything like this altitude or in this kind of terrain.

0:43:030:43:08

What does, and what were spotted in 1999 to the east of us,

0:43:080:43:12

is the orange-breasted falcon.

0:43:120:43:15

I think there'll be a lot of ornithologists out there who'll be

0:43:150:43:18

really happy to know that it's alive and well here on Upuigma.

0:43:180:43:21

It looks to me like we've got a pair with a youngster.

0:43:210:43:25

There's all sorts of interactions going on between the three of them.

0:43:250:43:29

Very, very vocal birds.

0:43:300:43:32

As Evan explores the cliff face,

0:43:420:43:45

Steve is hunting for the mystery mammal.

0:43:450:43:49

There's a great little hole down here with loads of paw prints.

0:43:490:43:54

It would make a perfect burrow.

0:43:540:43:56

Let's go inside with the night camera, see what we can see.

0:43:560:44:00

It smells quite strong in here.

0:44:020:44:04

That kind of musty, animal smell.

0:44:060:44:09

It certainly looks like a perfect burrow for a medium-sized mammal.

0:44:090:44:13

I can't see anything. There's loads of prints, but there's no droppings.

0:44:130:44:18

Since first light, George and Gordon have been continuing

0:44:270:44:31

their search for Guyana's top predators.

0:44:310:44:34

One of the boatmen thinks he's seen

0:44:340:44:36

a giant anaconda hidden in the bushes.

0:44:360:44:39

One big one.

0:44:390:44:42

Anaconda?

0:44:420:44:43

-Anaconda?

-Yeah. And if he says it's a big one...

0:44:450:44:48

-It'll be big.

-It'll be big.

0:44:480:44:50

There's a big one.

0:45:040:45:06

It's a big one indeed.

0:45:060:45:09

-Can we get in there?

-Goodness me.

0:45:090:45:11

It's like a car tyre. Yeah, it's like a car tyre on its side.

0:45:120:45:17

A very large car tyre.

0:45:170:45:18

Gordon is just going to sneak onto land

0:45:180:45:22

and try and get a picture of this anaconda on the ground.

0:45:220:45:27

Razor grass.

0:45:280:45:30

Gordon's about eight feet away from it.

0:45:310:45:35

Goodness me, that's a huge snake.

0:45:350:45:38

It's five metres long, its body the size of Gordon's waist.

0:45:380:45:44

Just doing a bit of pruning.

0:45:440:45:46

You can't really get a clear view of it.

0:45:460:45:49

I've seen an anaconda smaller than that eat a whole pig.

0:45:490:45:54

Something the size of me, it could possibly do it.

0:45:550:45:59

Anaconda kill by coiling their body tightly around their prey

0:46:010:46:05

and stopping the blood circulation.

0:46:050:46:08

The victim is swallowed whole.

0:46:080:46:10

If you're scared of snakes, this thing would give you nightmares.

0:46:130:46:18

His tongue's not out.

0:46:180:46:20

If his tongue comes out, that means it can sense us.

0:46:200:46:23

It can actually taste us.

0:46:230:46:24

At the moment, I think it's just fast asleep.

0:46:240:46:28

Oh, my God!

0:46:310:46:34

Now that is... That's big.

0:46:340:46:36

This place really is strangely rich in wildlife.

0:46:370:46:43

I've never seen or heard of anywhere like this place.

0:46:430:46:47

This is a land of giants.

0:46:470:46:49

It's eyes are open. Look.

0:46:490:46:52

It's great to see it and I think we should just leave it alone.

0:46:530:46:58

They head into the forest,

0:47:020:47:04

where they're confronted by a yet another giant.

0:47:040:47:08

This is an enormous tree!

0:47:080:47:12

It's a silk cottonwood.

0:47:120:47:15

Absolutely vast! That's bigger than anything we've seen.

0:47:150:47:20

-Definitely.

-Good grief!

0:47:200:47:23

-That is incredible.

-Look at the size of those buttress roots. Oh, wow.

0:47:230:47:28

-Look, look, look!

-What have you got? What have you got?

0:47:280:47:31

-Oh, my God!

-It's one of those...

-That is incredible!

0:47:310:47:36

This is a hawk moth, which has been infected by...

0:47:360:47:39

Is it a fungus?

0:47:390:47:41

Exactly. That's grown throughout the whole animal.

0:47:410:47:44

The disease makes them crawl up higher,

0:47:440:47:48

so that when they die and the spores erupt out of the animal,

0:47:480:47:53

it spreads over a further area.

0:47:530:47:55

You have to be very careful what you eat in the jungle,

0:47:550:47:58

because there are things that can make you feel very sick

0:47:580:48:01

or things that will grow inside you

0:48:010:48:04

and erupt out of your back, your stomach, and here's an example.

0:48:040:48:10

Sci-fi films, they try and dream up hideous things,

0:48:100:48:14

but actually, in the real world,

0:48:140:48:16

there are ten times more hideous things

0:48:160:48:18

happening to animals all around us than we could ever imagine.

0:48:180:48:23

I'll be you any money that species of fungus is undescribed.

0:48:230:48:28

I mean... It's a very under-worked group.

0:48:280:48:32

That, to me...is quite unique.

0:48:320:48:36

It's only from the air that you can see the vast scale of this forest.

0:48:400:48:44

Guyana's trees alone lock up 2.7 billion tonnes of carbon,

0:48:440:48:49

vital in the fight against climate change.

0:48:490:48:52

But Guyana is a very poor country

0:48:520:48:55

and needs to earn money from its trees.

0:48:550:48:57

It faces a dilemma.

0:48:570:48:59

To allow logging now or keep the forests intact

0:48:590:49:03

and hope to trade them for carbon credits in the future.

0:49:030:49:07

So far, this forest is untouched, but it may not be for much longer.

0:49:110:49:17

It's the last night on Mount Upuigma

0:49:240:49:27

and after dinner, the climbing team hope to find nocturnal animals.

0:49:270:49:31

They've laid a series of small mammal traps

0:49:340:49:36

and Steve's rigging an ultra-violet light to attract insects.

0:49:360:49:41

Look at these moths!

0:49:440:49:46

Look at the size of this. Whoa!

0:49:460:49:50

Enormous moths all the way down this wall here. Look!

0:49:520:49:55

Look at the size of that!

0:49:580:50:01

These ones here are hawk moths. They're sphingidae.

0:50:010:50:06

Look at the size of that one there!

0:50:060:50:08

For scale, that's the size of my hand.

0:50:080:50:11

And they're all exactly the same species,

0:50:110:50:15

with this distinctive eye spot here

0:50:150:50:17

and that wonderful colouration here in the hind wing.

0:50:170:50:20

Whoa! Something really quite extraordinary's happened here.

0:50:200:50:25

My light trip has actually conned these swifts

0:50:250:50:28

and they've flown into the wall.

0:50:280:50:29

This one here, he's stunned, but alert.

0:50:290:50:33

I think he might head off.

0:50:350:50:37

Come on, fella, please be all right.

0:50:370:50:39

Thank goodness for that.

0:50:440:50:46

Suddenly, there's a noise from within the mammal trap.

0:50:460:50:51

No, no, no, no.

0:50:510:50:53

Come back, come back. Where are you?

0:50:530:50:55

Oh, God, no! Oh, he's in there.

0:50:560:50:59

He's in there. Oh, he's beautiful!

0:50:590:51:04

You're all right. I'm not gonna hurt you.

0:51:040:51:06

Look at the size of the ears and the spread of the whiskers.

0:51:060:51:10

This is definitely a creature that's accustomed to hunting at night.

0:51:100:51:14

That's ever so pretty.

0:51:160:51:18

There have been very, very few species recorded up here.

0:51:180:51:23

New mammals are found so rarely these days,

0:51:230:51:26

but that is an extraordinary find.

0:51:260:51:29

Makes the whole trip worthwhile.

0:51:290:51:31

They could only bring enough supplies for three days.

0:51:400:51:44

Now it's time to go home.

0:51:440:51:48

Last night was definitely in my top ten wildlife moments.

0:51:520:51:56

Everything happened at once.

0:51:560:51:58

First of all the swifts, then these moths everywhere

0:51:580:52:02

and then we found that mouse.

0:52:020:52:04

We've only had three days to do a rapid assessment

0:52:040:52:08

of what lives up here on the top,

0:52:080:52:10

but even so, I think we've had some major successes.

0:52:100:52:13

I'm sure that some of the animals we've found are new to science.

0:52:130:52:16

But even more tantalising are those footprints we found

0:52:160:52:20

of some unknown animal and I just hope that someone gets a chance

0:52:200:52:23

to come back and find out what that is.

0:52:230:52:26

It's one of the big tragedies of my life that I was born now

0:52:260:52:31

when it's so hard to find really wild places that people haven't been to.

0:52:310:52:37

It does your heart good to come somewhere like this

0:52:370:52:39

that is not only totally undiscovered, but is so special.

0:52:390:52:45

Gordon has been pulled away from breakfast.

0:52:540:52:57

One of Guyana's most rarely seen creatures

0:52:570:53:00

is high in the trees right next to camp.

0:53:000:53:02

It's just stopped in this tree right here.

0:53:040:53:07

I have never seen a harpy eagle before.

0:53:070:53:10

I really didn't think we'd see one here.

0:53:100:53:14

It's enormous. What I'd like to try and do is get ashore

0:53:140:53:18

and that way I can get the long lens to its full extent

0:53:180:53:22

and hopefully get a really close shot of it.

0:53:220:53:25

Please don't go anywhere.

0:53:250:53:28

This is just smash-and-grab filming.

0:53:280:53:30

You've got to try and find a position and just get what you can,

0:53:300:53:35

because this bird is gonna fly and we're never gonna see it again.

0:53:350:53:41

OK, make sure everything's running.

0:53:410:53:44

Oh, wow! Look at that.

0:53:460:53:48

You know what? If the jaguar's the most difficult mammal to see,

0:53:500:53:55

the harpy eagle is definitely the most difficult bird to see.

0:53:550:54:00

Beautiful.

0:54:000:54:02

It's easy in this place to say every second day,

0:54:020:54:07

"This is the most amazing thing, the rarest thing that I've seen,"

0:54:070:54:11

but honestly,

0:54:110:54:13

there is more chance of a jaguar doing the fandango through our camp

0:54:130:54:18

than finding a harpy eagle.

0:54:180:54:20

He's got the remains of a monkey.

0:54:200:54:21

You can just see its back legs.

0:54:210:54:25

That's what harpy eagles do.

0:54:250:54:27

They're such huge birds of prey.

0:54:270:54:30

They catch big primates

0:54:300:54:33

and their claws are so powerful, they'll grab a monkey,

0:54:330:54:37

grab it by the body with one claw, grab it by the head...

0:54:370:54:40

Look at those talons.

0:54:400:54:42

They're enormous. Huge.

0:54:420:54:45

That size.

0:54:450:54:46

The harpy is the most powerful eagle in the world

0:54:490:54:52

and stands a metre tall.

0:54:520:54:55

Without a doubt, this is like finding diamonds at the head of this river.

0:54:590:55:04

The further we get away from people, there's more animals

0:55:040:55:09

and the fact that you've got an animal like harpy eagle

0:55:090:55:12

is a good indication that there must be many monkeys here.

0:55:120:55:15

And many monkeys mean you've got a very healthy habitat.

0:55:150:55:21

It's worrying that it's completely unprotected.

0:55:210:55:24

They could really mess this area up in a very short space of time,

0:55:240:55:28

and that's terrifying.

0:55:280:55:30

This is so, so unbelievably rare.

0:55:320:55:36

It is the holy grail.

0:55:360:55:38

OK, it's gonna go. It's gonna go.

0:55:390:55:41

This could be the last moments we have with this bird.

0:55:420:55:47

The harpy eagle is the final discovery for the team.

0:55:470:55:50

They'll soon be heading home.

0:55:500:55:52

The expedition has produced important evidence.

0:56:010:56:05

This is one of the greatest, unspoilt rainforests in the world.

0:56:050:56:09

There are so few places that are pristine and untouched.

0:56:090:56:14

This is one of them and, personally, I think that should never change.

0:56:140:56:19

From the tree tops to its watery depths, they've uncovered new,

0:56:190:56:25

strange and rare creatures.

0:56:250:56:28

They've been burnt, bitten, and had narrow escapes.

0:56:280:56:33

They've catalogued and photographed hundreds of rainforest animals.

0:56:360:56:41

There should be room on this earth

0:56:430:56:46

to keep 6% of the land surface area, a very small area,

0:56:460:56:51

in which resides the majority

0:56:510:56:52

of all the Earth's species of animals and plants.

0:56:520:56:55

Thank you.

0:57:000:57:02

For George, there's one last task.

0:57:020:57:05

Delivering the scientific report to the Guyanese president.

0:57:050:57:09

Here is a very brief report from our trip

0:57:090:57:14

which just outlines what we did.

0:57:140:57:16

Obviously, there'll be more coming out of this in the next few months.

0:57:160:57:20

Every report, they've all recognised the importance of rainforests,

0:57:200:57:27

especially tropical rainforests. In climate change, the contribution

0:57:270:57:31

to the mitigation or the reduction of greenhouse gases.

0:57:310:57:35

What we all find is that this particular area

0:57:350:57:40

is one of the richest, in terms of species,

0:57:400:57:43

probably anywhere on the planet. It's incredibly rich.

0:57:430:57:46

Shortly after the team returned home,

0:57:480:57:50

the President of Guyana made an unprecedented move.

0:57:500:57:53

He approached the British government to offer the intact forest

0:57:530:57:57

as a global resource to help alleviate climate change,

0:57:570:58:00

in return for financial help. No decision has yet been made.

0:58:000:58:05

The world is just beginning to recognise the enormous value of rainforests.

0:58:050:58:11

Not only as home to millions of species,

0:58:110:58:13

but as part of the solution to a global problem.

0:58:130:58:18

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:58:430:58:46

E-mail [email protected]

0:58:460:58:49

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