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At the wild frontier, where the Atlantic ocean divides | 0:00:02 | 0:00:06 | |
around the granite skirts of Lands End | 0:00:06 | 0:00:10 | |
one man pursues his passion. | 0:00:10 | 0:00:12 | |
Stephen Westcott has spent two decades | 0:00:14 | 0:00:17 | |
exploring this remote coastline. | 0:00:17 | 0:00:19 | |
And uncovering the secret life of Cornish grey seals. | 0:00:20 | 0:00:25 | |
-RADIO: -Lyme Regis to Lands End - occasionally gale eight at first. | 0:00:33 | 0:00:36 | |
I think of this place as the edge of the world. | 0:00:37 | 0:00:40 | |
My working life is spent in this dynamic margin, | 0:00:40 | 0:00:44 | |
between the familiar land | 0:00:44 | 0:00:45 | |
and the less predictable ocean rim. | 0:00:45 | 0:00:48 | |
I started off by loving surfing | 0:00:48 | 0:00:50 | |
and being in the sea. | 0:00:50 | 0:00:52 | |
Now, I'm in the sea every day, studying creatures that live between | 0:00:52 | 0:00:56 | |
the land and the sea every day. | 0:00:56 | 0:00:58 | |
The attraction was, | 0:00:58 | 0:01:00 | |
very little work had been done - which was a great shock to me. | 0:01:00 | 0:01:04 | |
I thought, well, it's so easy to find out, | 0:01:04 | 0:01:06 | |
as long as you are able to... | 0:01:06 | 0:01:08 | |
to live with the sea, as it were. And I can. | 0:01:08 | 0:01:10 | |
From July onwards, the seals are breeding | 0:01:13 | 0:01:15 | |
and I'm busy looking for their secret pups. | 0:01:15 | 0:01:17 | |
Because pup numbers are a reliable sign | 0:01:17 | 0:01:20 | |
of how well the local seals are doing. | 0:01:20 | 0:01:22 | |
The problem is, with the sea raging, I can't get onto the water. | 0:01:28 | 0:01:31 | |
But by low tide, I know of other routes to explore the seals' domain. | 0:01:32 | 0:01:36 | |
At the top of this boulder beach is a narrow sea cave | 0:01:39 | 0:01:42 | |
which might shelter what I'm after. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:44 | |
Now, what we've got here, | 0:01:50 | 0:01:52 | |
is a pool that's about 20 metres long and about 4 metres wide. | 0:01:52 | 0:01:56 | |
Unfortunately, there's a seal mother in the pool there, | 0:01:58 | 0:02:02 | |
I don't really want to go beyond it. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:04 | |
But if we're to find how many pups are born in this cave this year, | 0:02:04 | 0:02:07 | |
it has to be done while conditions are good. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:10 | |
Ready to proceed? | 0:02:11 | 0:02:12 | |
SPLASHING Ugh! | 0:02:13 | 0:02:16 | |
HE EXHALES | 0:02:16 | 0:02:18 | |
I'd just like her to submerge! SEAL SNORTS | 0:02:23 | 0:02:26 | |
That's better. | 0:02:29 | 0:02:31 | |
It's better. | 0:02:31 | 0:02:32 | |
OK, let's go. WATER SPLASHES | 0:02:32 | 0:02:34 | |
If you look about you here, you see a cave that's cathedral high, | 0:02:43 | 0:02:47 | |
so it's a wonderful place to be in, just in itself. | 0:02:47 | 0:02:49 | |
SEAL GROANS | 0:02:49 | 0:02:51 | |
In this amazing environment, | 0:02:51 | 0:02:53 | |
this most improbable environment, the seal pups are born. | 0:02:53 | 0:02:57 | |
Which seems something of a miracle. | 0:02:57 | 0:03:00 | |
I'd say this pup is at least two weeks old - | 0:03:04 | 0:03:06 | |
it's actually getting close to the point where it will be weaned. | 0:03:06 | 0:03:09 | |
After they're weaned, | 0:03:10 | 0:03:12 | |
after they've been in the world for less than three weeks, | 0:03:12 | 0:03:15 | |
they then have to teach themselves to swim if they haven't learned already. | 0:03:15 | 0:03:19 | |
And then, they also have to teach themselves to forage for food. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:23 | |
And they do this by diving repeatedly for... | 0:03:23 | 0:03:26 | |
Well, for stuff... PUP SNORTS | 0:03:26 | 0:03:29 | |
For stuff like this. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:31 | |
For seaweed, for stones, | 0:03:31 | 0:03:33 | |
for seashells. | 0:03:33 | 0:03:34 | |
STEVE SNORTS LOUDLY | 0:03:34 | 0:03:37 | |
I make that sound just to be reassuring. | 0:03:39 | 0:03:41 | |
Bit of a shock for a little seal pup to see a human come into a place | 0:03:42 | 0:03:47 | |
where it's only seen seals and surf and rock and sand and seaweed. | 0:03:47 | 0:03:50 | |
But for me, it's half-familiar, | 0:03:52 | 0:03:55 | |
but it's never going to be a place to be complacent. | 0:03:55 | 0:03:59 | |
I can never afford to be complacent in a place like this. | 0:03:59 | 0:04:01 | |
As the tide turns, the cave has become less safe. | 0:04:07 | 0:04:09 | |
It's time to leave. | 0:04:09 | 0:04:12 | |
A fragment of beach will remain, | 0:04:12 | 0:04:13 | |
where the pup will stay high and dry. | 0:04:13 | 0:04:15 | |
For the adults though, they're in their element, | 0:04:22 | 0:04:26 | |
and I love to watch them dance in a sea that would pulverise me. | 0:04:26 | 0:04:30 | |
There's an amazing amount of vitality here in the water, as you can see. | 0:04:31 | 0:04:36 | |
And yet the seals, you look at them and they're hardly moving at all, | 0:04:36 | 0:04:39 | |
despite all the massive movements of waters going on. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:43 | |
It's as if their full of holes, as though the power of the sea | 0:04:44 | 0:04:47 | |
goes through them and doesn't have any effect. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:49 | |
Seals are the reason for me to explore this enchanted world. | 0:04:58 | 0:05:01 | |
But it's more than just them. | 0:05:02 | 0:05:04 | |
It's kestrels mastering the updraughts. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
Turnstones in the mussel beds. | 0:05:09 | 0:05:11 | |
It's the light, the colours... The everything. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:18 | |
The water is calmer today, | 0:05:28 | 0:05:31 | |
it's time to unleash the waveski. | 0:05:31 | 0:05:33 | |
WOLF WHISTLE | 0:05:33 | 0:05:35 | |
Perfect conditions to paddle out to Great Cave. | 0:05:38 | 0:05:41 | |
Yee-hoo! | 0:05:55 | 0:05:56 | |
This is an island where the birds nest in the spring time - | 0:05:56 | 0:05:59 | |
shags and herring gulls. | 0:05:59 | 0:06:01 | |
Up here. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:03 | |
And if you look at the patterning on the walls here, | 0:06:05 | 0:06:07 | |
for me this resembles nothing more than the hide of an elephant. | 0:06:07 | 0:06:11 | |
LOUD SPLASHING | 0:06:11 | 0:06:13 | |
Female seal. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:14 | |
Good sign. | 0:06:14 | 0:06:16 | |
Good sign - possibility of pups. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:18 | |
And dead ahead of us is the entrance to the cave, proper. | 0:06:20 | 0:06:24 | |
The waveski gives me access to these remote nurseries. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:32 | |
At high tide, they echo to the thunderous drumming of the sea. | 0:06:32 | 0:06:36 | |
WAVES CRASH AND SEALS GROAN | 0:06:37 | 0:06:40 | |
HE LAUGHS | 0:06:42 | 0:06:44 | |
This is another seal pup in tremendously good condition. | 0:06:46 | 0:06:49 | |
Very powerful, clearly not disturbed | 0:06:49 | 0:06:51 | |
by either the sound or the smell of us. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:53 | |
See the way it moves - | 0:06:54 | 0:06:56 | |
it lifts the front of the body up, | 0:06:56 | 0:06:57 | |
does a sort of breaststroke through the sand. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:00 | |
But the hind part of the body is dragged along the sand, | 0:07:00 | 0:07:03 | |
in effect as a dead weight. | 0:07:03 | 0:07:04 | |
PUP CRIES | 0:07:05 | 0:07:08 | |
This cry is saying, "I'm hungry, I want my mum to come and feed me", | 0:07:08 | 0:07:11 | |
this isn't distress because of our proximity. | 0:07:11 | 0:07:14 | |
What makes this such a great cave for pups to be born in - | 0:07:18 | 0:07:21 | |
there's always a beach at high tide, which is ideal. | 0:07:21 | 0:07:26 | |
But the other thing about this cave which is so wonderful is, | 0:07:26 | 0:07:30 | |
when this pup is one year old, 5 years old... | 0:07:30 | 0:07:34 | |
25 years old, | 0:07:34 | 0:07:36 | |
it'll come to this cave to moult, and it'll do that | 0:07:36 | 0:07:39 | |
in a great assembly of seals, perhaps as many as 50 lying on this beach. | 0:07:39 | 0:07:43 | |
And all of them moulting, in the heart of winter. | 0:07:43 | 0:07:46 | |
On the way out of the cave, | 0:07:52 | 0:07:53 | |
there was one final treat in store. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:56 | |
It's a pup! | 0:07:57 | 0:07:58 | |
It's just down on the bottom, | 0:08:00 | 0:08:02 | |
just down here for the minute. | 0:08:02 | 0:08:04 | |
Here. | 0:08:05 | 0:08:06 | |
There he is! | 0:08:12 | 0:08:14 | |
I always feel it's a priviledge to witness such a rite of passage. | 0:08:18 | 0:08:22 | |
A pup, leaving the darkness and sanctuary of the cave, | 0:08:22 | 0:08:26 | |
and swimming through the threads of sunlight to the ocean beyond. | 0:08:26 | 0:08:30 | |
For me, there's no sweeter inspiration. | 0:08:30 | 0:08:33 | |
Subtitles by Erika Graham Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:08:49 | 0:08:52 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:08:52 | 0:08:54 |