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'Iceland. | 0:00:03 | 0:00:04 | |
'A land of fire and ice.' | 0:00:04 | 0:00:07 | |
What is that? | 0:00:07 | 0:00:09 | |
'The most recent eruptions here caused chaos all across Europe.' | 0:00:11 | 0:00:16 | |
-Is this THE ash? -Yeah. | 0:00:16 | 0:00:18 | |
Yeah, this is it. | 0:00:18 | 0:00:20 | |
'It's one of the most geologically active places on Earth.' | 0:00:20 | 0:00:24 | |
We really are at the gates to Hell! | 0:00:24 | 0:00:27 | |
That's the burning core of the Earth! | 0:00:27 | 0:00:30 | |
'Over 130 volcanoes are gradually pushing this country apart.' | 0:00:30 | 0:00:35 | |
Julia, that's it. That's where we're heading. | 0:00:35 | 0:00:39 | |
Our prize. | 0:00:39 | 0:00:41 | |
So five minutes out of the hut and this is our first epic view of the day. | 0:00:44 | 0:00:49 | |
'Wherever you look is another heart-stopping sight.' | 0:00:49 | 0:00:54 | |
-Makes you want to cry. -It does. | 0:00:54 | 0:00:56 | |
It's extraordinary. | 0:00:56 | 0:00:58 | |
'I'm about to embark on the most challenging walk of my life.' | 0:00:59 | 0:01:04 | |
My thighs are killing me. | 0:01:04 | 0:01:07 | |
-We've still got so far to go! -Yes. | 0:01:07 | 0:01:09 | |
'Landing in Iceland makes you feel like you've arrived at the edge of the world. | 0:01:22 | 0:01:28 | |
'For an avid walker like me, this place is paradise. | 0:01:28 | 0:01:33 | |
'In an area only slightly smaller than England, Iceland has glaciers. | 0:01:37 | 0:01:42 | |
'Volcanoes. | 0:01:43 | 0:01:45 | |
'Lava fields. | 0:01:46 | 0:01:48 | |
'Mountains. | 0:01:48 | 0:01:50 | |
'Gorges. | 0:01:50 | 0:01:52 | |
'And geysers. | 0:01:52 | 0:01:54 | |
'Indeed, Iceland's very existence is a geological oddity. | 0:01:58 | 0:02:03 | |
'It marks where the European and American tectonic plates meet and are pushed apart | 0:02:03 | 0:02:08 | |
'by volcanic activity. | 0:02:08 | 0:02:10 | |
'There are only 320,000 people in Iceland | 0:02:16 | 0:02:20 | |
'and the first permanent settlement wasn't established until 874AD. | 0:02:20 | 0:02:25 | |
'It was then that a Viking chieftain called Ingolfr Arnarson arrived off the coast with his family. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:32 | |
'According to legend, he threw two carved pillars overboard | 0:02:32 | 0:02:36 | |
'vowing to set up home wherever they landed. | 0:02:36 | 0:02:40 | |
'The pillars washed ashore on a coastline dotted with steam vents, so he called the place Reykjavik, | 0:02:40 | 0:02:46 | |
'which in Norse means "Bay of Smoke". | 0:02:46 | 0:02:50 | |
'His settlement is still the capital and home to two-thirds of Iceland's tiny population. | 0:02:50 | 0:02:57 | |
'The reason I've come to Reykjavik is for advice on my expedition. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:06 | |
'I'd like to walk to the volcano that grounded planes across Europe, | 0:03:06 | 0:03:10 | |
'but walking up a live volcano is not to be taken lightly. | 0:03:10 | 0:03:14 | |
'So I've arranged to meet Ari Gudmundsson. He's a geophysicist, a volcanologist and a broadcaster.' | 0:03:14 | 0:03:21 | |
-Hi, -Ari. Hello, Julia. -Nice to see you, nice to see you. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:26 | |
So before we begin a geology lesson, here we have now one of the most famous volcanoes in the world. | 0:03:26 | 0:03:32 | |
-How do you pronounce its name? -It's Eyjafjallajokull. | 0:03:32 | 0:03:37 | |
-Eyjafjallajokull. -Yeah, that's good. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:41 | |
-And the easy way to do it is just to talk about the E volcano. -You see, that I can do! | 0:03:41 | 0:03:47 | |
-The E volcano. What's happening now? -Right now, everything is quiet. | 0:03:47 | 0:03:53 | |
You have to know that the eruption had two different phases. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:57 | |
The first phase we had this rather small eruption on the flank of the volcano. | 0:03:57 | 0:04:03 | |
And it was, yeah, you could say a tourist attraction, not disturbance. | 0:04:03 | 0:04:08 | |
-And that was the first eruption that caused problems for air traffic...? -No. Nothing. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:13 | |
-You just knew in Iceland. -Yeah, but then it paused for two days, the volcano | 0:04:13 | 0:04:19 | |
and started again to erupt, this time in the summit crater. | 0:04:19 | 0:04:23 | |
That eruption caused all the havoc | 0:04:23 | 0:04:26 | |
because mixing magma and ice, | 0:04:26 | 0:04:29 | |
because that was in the glaciated part of the volcano, it's an explosive thing. | 0:04:29 | 0:04:35 | |
-Not a good combination. -By no means. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:38 | |
-How close do you think I'll get? -You will get very close to the lava craters from the first phase. Easy. | 0:04:38 | 0:04:45 | |
But to get to the big one, that's a bit more difficult. | 0:04:45 | 0:04:49 | |
It's another long climb and it has been off limits to people for a long time now. | 0:04:49 | 0:04:55 | |
So, in reality, you have to put a request to the authorities | 0:04:55 | 0:05:00 | |
and ask them for permission to go to the top crater to see what's up there. | 0:05:00 | 0:05:06 | |
And that's even more interesting. But, well, submit and see what happens. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:12 | |
'The route I'll be following is the Landmannalaugar Trail, | 0:05:16 | 0:05:20 | |
'the start of which is a three-hour drive east of Reykjavik. | 0:05:20 | 0:05:25 | |
'It was the first dedicated hiking trail in Iceland, laid out back in the 1960s. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:30 | |
'It's considered one of the finest walking routes in the world, | 0:05:32 | 0:05:37 | |
'right up there with the Inca Trail in Peru and the Milford Track in New Zealand. | 0:05:37 | 0:05:42 | |
'I've got 60km to cover so it will take a good four days to walk to the base of the volcano. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:51 | |
'On the fifth day, I'll climb up to the new hills formed by outlet vents | 0:05:56 | 0:06:00 | |
'from the first part of the volcanic eruption. | 0:06:00 | 0:06:04 | |
'Meanwhile, we've put an application in with the authorities | 0:06:04 | 0:06:08 | |
'to see if I can get permission to go up to the main crater, 10km west of these new hills. | 0:06:08 | 0:06:15 | |
'At night I'll stay in a series of huts across the wilderness, | 0:06:18 | 0:06:22 | |
'set up for intrepid walkers like me. | 0:06:22 | 0:06:25 | |
'And this place does make you feel intrepid. It's like embarking on a journey through Lord of the Rings. | 0:06:25 | 0:06:31 | |
'This is no accident. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:35 | |
'JRR Tolkien was fascinated by Iceland and it's said | 0:06:36 | 0:06:41 | |
'that this is as close as you're likely to get to Middle Earth, the fantasy land in his novels. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:47 | |
'It turns out that even driving to the start of the trail is something of an epic quest. | 0:06:50 | 0:06:57 | |
'It may be the middle of summer, but the weather is changeable and the roads just rough tracks. | 0:07:00 | 0:07:06 | |
'But after a bone-shaking drive, I finally reach the start of the route at Landmannalaugar. | 0:07:08 | 0:07:15 | |
'These huts are only open from June to August. The rest of the year, the weather is too ferocious for hiking. | 0:07:20 | 0:07:26 | |
'Yet even this bleak-looking camp has a great surprise in store for me. | 0:07:30 | 0:07:36 | |
'How weird. A boiling hot river.' | 0:07:40 | 0:07:43 | |
Ohh. | 0:07:43 | 0:07:44 | |
This is hotter than your bath, I'm sure. | 0:07:50 | 0:07:54 | |
It should be getting colder this way. Oh, yeah, getting slightly... slightly colder. | 0:07:55 | 0:08:01 | |
You can feel the temperature drop a little bit. | 0:08:01 | 0:08:06 | |
It's still lovely, though. | 0:08:06 | 0:08:08 | |
'My first real brush with Iceland's volcanic landscape couldn't be more enchanting.' | 0:08:08 | 0:08:14 | |
What a way to start a walk! | 0:08:14 | 0:08:16 | |
I think I'll just stay here all day. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:20 | |
'This area sits right on top of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, | 0:08:23 | 0:08:27 | |
'a crack in the Earth's surface running diagonally across Iceland. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:32 | |
'This rift is the place where two of the tectonic plates that make up our planet's surface meet. | 0:08:32 | 0:08:38 | |
'And it's this instability on the Earth's crust that causes Iceland's volcanoes and geothermal activity. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:45 | |
'It's an intimidating place and the greatest walking challenge I've faced, | 0:08:47 | 0:08:52 | |
'so I've enlisted the help of a companion from one of Iceland's guiding companies.' | 0:08:52 | 0:08:58 | |
-Hi, Hanna, lovely to meet you. -So nice to meet you. -I could spend all day in the hot spring! -I know! | 0:08:58 | 0:09:04 | |
Have we got an action-packed five days? Lots to climb and get into? | 0:09:04 | 0:09:09 | |
We're going to see a nice selection of lava fields. Really different types of lava fields. | 0:09:09 | 0:09:15 | |
We're going to see some river crossings, we'll see deserts | 0:09:15 | 0:09:19 | |
-and really colourful mountains. -That's quite a lot! -Yeah. | 0:09:19 | 0:09:24 | |
-So what have we got in store for Day One? -Let me show you the map. It's going to be a varied day. | 0:09:24 | 0:09:31 | |
-So we're starting here... Landmannalaugar? -Landmannalaugar. | 0:09:35 | 0:09:39 | |
We could walk through this lava field here, but I prefer going through the valley here. | 0:09:39 | 0:09:45 | |
It's really spectacular. | 0:09:45 | 0:09:48 | |
Then crossing the lava field this way, we go around the base of this mountain, up the ridge, | 0:09:48 | 0:09:53 | |
-and then walk into this geothermal area here. -Geothermal area! It just sounds exciting! -It is. | 0:09:53 | 0:10:00 | |
And then we're continuing, you know, upward in direction to the hut here. | 0:10:00 | 0:10:06 | |
-How do we say this? -Hoskuldsskali. | 0:10:06 | 0:10:08 | |
OK, yeah. | 0:10:08 | 0:10:10 | |
-And...it looks like quite a hike. What distance are we covering? -That's about 12km. | 0:10:11 | 0:10:17 | |
We're starting at 590 metres and ending at about 1,100 metres. | 0:10:17 | 0:10:21 | |
-Yeah, so... -Five hours? Four? -Five hours, I should think. -Better get going! -Let's do that. | 0:10:21 | 0:10:28 | |
'Although I've done a lot of walking, I'm feeling slightly apprehensive. | 0:10:32 | 0:10:37 | |
'It's all a bit more raw and exposed down here | 0:10:37 | 0:10:40 | |
'and as soon as we leave the huts we're in the most incredible wild landscape. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:45 | |
'I'm glad to be with someone who knows the ropes | 0:10:46 | 0:10:50 | |
-'and it's always good to walk and talk.' -They don't want to just know about... -The Vikings! -..the Vikings. | 0:10:50 | 0:10:56 | |
And the elves and stuff. They really want to know what people are doing now. | 0:10:56 | 0:11:02 | |
-Up this way? -Yeah. Right up there. | 0:11:13 | 0:11:16 | |
OK. | 0:11:16 | 0:11:18 | |
Knobbly little path. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:23 | |
Oh, my lord! | 0:11:27 | 0:11:28 | |
Look at that! | 0:11:30 | 0:11:32 | |
-It's amazing, isn't it? -Yeah. -So this is the lava field? -It is. | 0:11:32 | 0:11:38 | |
We were sitting right next to it when we first met earlier today. | 0:11:38 | 0:11:42 | |
And this was created in one single massive motion | 0:11:42 | 0:11:47 | |
at the end of the 15th century. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:50 | |
It actually came from a few small vents up there. | 0:11:50 | 0:11:54 | |
-You can see how it comes out of that crater. -Look at all the... -Yes! | 0:11:54 | 0:11:58 | |
-..the spines along the edge. And the colours. It's incredible. -Yeah. | 0:11:58 | 0:12:03 | |
I walk a lot in the Lake District and the landscape there is so old compared to this. | 0:12:05 | 0:12:11 | |
-This was...15th century? -15th. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:13 | |
-So this is all fresh, new ground, really. -Yeah. | 0:12:13 | 0:12:17 | |
It's quite old for us. It gets younger as we continue our walk. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:22 | |
-That's strange to me. It is such a young formation, isn't it, the land here? -Yeah. | 0:12:22 | 0:12:28 | |
'This lava and the volcanoes that formed it are one of the few visible parts of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. | 0:12:32 | 0:12:39 | |
'Most of this ridge lies under the ocean, | 0:12:39 | 0:12:43 | |
'as it runs from Iceland to just short of the South Pole. | 0:12:43 | 0:12:47 | |
'It marks the point where the Atlantic is gradually getting wider | 0:12:47 | 0:12:52 | |
'and what we see in Iceland is the ocean floor being pushed up to the surface to form new land.' | 0:12:52 | 0:12:59 | |
Let's go this way. | 0:12:59 | 0:13:01 | |
'Over the next few million years, Iceland will grow bigger and bigger, | 0:13:01 | 0:13:05 | |
'possibly forming a new continent that will sit between Europe and America.' | 0:13:05 | 0:13:11 | |
-That way? -Yes. | 0:13:11 | 0:13:13 | |
'It's like being inside the most exciting GCSE Geology book in the world!' | 0:13:13 | 0:13:18 | |
-So this is a crater? -Well, this is one of the vents, yeah, | 0:13:18 | 0:13:22 | |
where this lava came out from. | 0:13:22 | 0:13:25 | |
-It's a really eggy smell, isn't it? -Yes, the sulphur you're smelling. | 0:13:25 | 0:13:30 | |
-You can see down there. Let's look. -It's such a vibrant colour. | 0:13:30 | 0:13:35 | |
Extraordinary colour. And if you pick one up you can see the crystals. | 0:13:35 | 0:13:39 | |
Yes... | 0:13:39 | 0:13:41 | |
It's just beautiful, isn't it? | 0:13:42 | 0:13:44 | |
-So you say this crater is much bigger than it was 20 years ago? -Much bigger, yeah. | 0:13:44 | 0:13:50 | |
-You can see how the geothermal activity is kind of boiling it. -Mm. | 0:13:50 | 0:13:55 | |
Apart almost. It's opening up, it's deepening. | 0:13:55 | 0:13:59 | |
A lot more sulphur is coming to the surface. | 0:13:59 | 0:14:03 | |
-It is quite literally a boiling landscape. -It is, absolutely. | 0:14:03 | 0:14:07 | |
'As we leave the lava field, we're climbing steadily. | 0:14:14 | 0:14:18 | |
'The walking here is no harder than anywhere else I've been, but it feels more alien and exposed.' | 0:14:18 | 0:14:25 | |
-That's a good...climb. -Yeah! | 0:14:25 | 0:14:28 | |
It is a bit of a climb. | 0:14:28 | 0:14:30 | |
Ohh... | 0:14:33 | 0:14:34 | |
It's so beautiful, though. So worth it. | 0:14:35 | 0:14:39 | |
'The hills we're crossing are breathtaking. | 0:14:40 | 0:14:44 | |
'They may be barren, but I've never seen anything like them. | 0:14:44 | 0:14:49 | |
'As we climb higher, the wind is really starting to bite. | 0:15:08 | 0:15:12 | |
'Our route is marked by posts every 100 metres or so | 0:15:13 | 0:15:17 | |
-'and the effect the relentless buffeting has on them is startling.' -Look at this, Julia. -Hey. | 0:15:17 | 0:15:24 | |
-Isn't that extraordinary? -How long has that been there? -A couple of years. -Is that all? Blimey! | 0:15:24 | 0:15:30 | |
It's the wind. It's so harsh up here. | 0:15:30 | 0:15:33 | |
-It's very beautiful, though. -Yeah, it is extraordinary. -Gnarled. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:37 | |
We would say that's a gnarled, weather-beaten bit of wood. | 0:15:37 | 0:15:42 | |
'My respect for this landscape grows deeper with every step.' | 0:15:44 | 0:15:49 | |
OK. | 0:16:22 | 0:16:23 | |
What is THAT? | 0:16:23 | 0:16:25 | |
Well, the whole area is called Storihver, | 0:16:26 | 0:16:29 | |
which basically just means big, hot spring. | 0:16:29 | 0:16:32 | |
And what's happening here is that water trickles down deep in the Earth where there's lava | 0:16:32 | 0:16:39 | |
and it heats up there. So as the water rushes up, it's hotter than the boiling point. | 0:16:39 | 0:16:45 | |
-So it's just exploding up! -Exploding up. Yeah. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:49 | |
It's amazing, isn't it? And look over here. You see little puddles fizzing. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:55 | |
-It is boiling hot. -You really shouldn't touch it. -We're standing on a bubbling mass | 0:16:55 | 0:17:01 | |
-beneath our feet. -Yes. That's exactly what's happening. -It's just incredible. | 0:17:01 | 0:17:07 | |
'This collections of springs is just one of 780 dotted across Iceland. | 0:17:13 | 0:17:19 | |
'In other parts of the country, these take the form of steaming mud pools | 0:17:23 | 0:17:29 | |
'and even huge columns of boiling water we know as geysers. | 0:17:29 | 0:17:34 | |
'In fact, Iceland gave the word to the world. Geyser means to gush in Icelandic. | 0:17:34 | 0:17:40 | |
'Out amid the steam vents, this can feel like a very desolate place. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:50 | |
'The entire population live by the coast. The rest of the country is a wilderness of ice, | 0:17:51 | 0:17:57 | |
'rock, fire and water. | 0:17:57 | 0:18:00 | |
'It's this otherworldliness that brought NASA to an area of Iceland called Askja to train astronauts | 0:18:02 | 0:18:08 | |
'for the geological conditions they'd encounter on the Moon. | 0:18:08 | 0:18:12 | |
'Across most of Iceland, you could walk for miles and see no sign of human life. | 0:18:12 | 0:18:18 | |
'No roads, no houses, | 0:18:18 | 0:18:21 | |
'nothing. | 0:18:21 | 0:18:23 | |
'Back on the trail, Hanna is keen for us to keep moving. We've still got two hours to go | 0:18:28 | 0:18:34 | |
'and the weather is going from bad to worse. | 0:18:34 | 0:18:38 | |
'The wind and the rain are relentless and the clouds so low I can barely see | 0:18:39 | 0:18:44 | |
'from one route marking post to the next. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:48 | |
'I'm very glad I've got Hanna guiding me. Without her at my side, this would be terrifying. | 0:18:53 | 0:19:00 | |
'And as we near the end of the day's walk, we come across something that brings home how dangerous it can be. | 0:19:04 | 0:19:10 | |
'In loving memory of Ido Keinan who passed away in a blizzard | 0:19:12 | 0:19:16 | |
'so close to the safe hut nearby yet so far, at only 25 years old. | 0:19:16 | 0:19:21 | |
'June 27th, 2004. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:25 | |
'This tragedy took place in the height of summer. We're in August, although it doesn't feel like it.' | 0:19:30 | 0:19:37 | |
You can see how easily it happens. Today - this, with us. | 0:19:37 | 0:19:41 | |
Yes, it can. And that's also why we should really get going soon, and get to the safety of the hut. | 0:19:41 | 0:19:48 | |
Shall we? | 0:19:48 | 0:19:50 | |
'We make it to the hut, but the weather this high up is awful. | 0:19:53 | 0:19:58 | |
'The forecast for tomorrow is no better, so we reluctantly call in the back-up vehicles and drive on | 0:19:58 | 0:20:04 | |
'to the next hut down the trail. | 0:20:04 | 0:20:06 | |
'It means missing 12km of the route, but it gets us down from the really high part, | 0:20:06 | 0:20:11 | |
'which is a nightmare in this weather.' | 0:20:11 | 0:20:15 | |
The weather closed in today and became quite menacing. | 0:20:18 | 0:20:22 | |
Our equipment stopped working and we had to get off the mountain to the closest hut. | 0:20:22 | 0:20:27 | |
Nevertheless, it was an exhilarating first day. | 0:20:27 | 0:20:31 | |
Even though I've been to Iceland before, now I really feel it. | 0:20:31 | 0:20:36 | |
After the day I've had, I need a shower and the best thing about my shower is the view. | 0:20:39 | 0:20:45 | |
But there are some practicalities to get to grips with. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:51 | |
400 kronur buys you 5 minutes. That's about £2.50. So speed is of the essence. | 0:20:52 | 0:20:58 | |
Bless. | 0:20:58 | 0:21:00 | |
'It's 11pm, but during the summer Iceland never really gets dark. | 0:21:07 | 0:21:11 | |
'We're staying at a place called Swan Lake. | 0:21:11 | 0:21:15 | |
'As the twilight that passes for an Icelandic summer night sets in, | 0:21:15 | 0:21:19 | |
'it feels an eerie and foreboding place. The perfect setting for some Nordic story telling.' | 0:21:19 | 0:21:25 | |
Swan Lake is named after the whooper swan that breeds in the highland areas | 0:21:25 | 0:21:31 | |
and is quite common in summertime. | 0:21:31 | 0:21:34 | |
The strange thing is that it's called Swan Lake, but no one has ever seen any swans here. | 0:21:34 | 0:21:41 | |
But the story goes that in the 18th century | 0:21:41 | 0:21:45 | |
a man was in the area with his daughter on horseback. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:49 | |
And they were looking for sheep. This was in the autumn. | 0:21:49 | 0:21:53 | |
And coming to the lake, he saw swans on the lake. | 0:21:53 | 0:21:57 | |
And the swans were hunted at this time. | 0:21:57 | 0:22:01 | |
So he wanted, obviously, to get the swans and he rode into the lake on his horse. | 0:22:01 | 0:22:07 | |
-But the horse got frightened and threw him and he disappeared into the lake. -Gone? -Gone. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:13 | |
-Disappeared. -People looked for him, but they couldn't find him. | 0:22:13 | 0:22:17 | |
-No sign of his body, no sign of him. -He just disappeared into the lake. | 0:22:17 | 0:22:22 | |
And then, months later, his mother dreamt | 0:22:22 | 0:22:27 | |
that his body was in the cave | 0:22:27 | 0:22:30 | |
that farmers used as their shelter at the lake | 0:22:30 | 0:22:35 | |
when they were looking for sheep. And in the spring, when the area was accessible again, | 0:22:35 | 0:22:41 | |
people came looking for him and found him dead in a cave. | 0:22:41 | 0:22:45 | |
Very strange. | 0:22:45 | 0:22:47 | |
And the strange thing is that no one has ever seen a swan on this lake. | 0:22:47 | 0:22:53 | |
'Listening to Hanna's story in the semi-darkness is mesmerising. | 0:22:53 | 0:22:58 | |
'Iceland has drawn me in. | 0:22:59 | 0:23:02 | |
'I wonder where this saga will take me next. | 0:23:02 | 0:23:06 | |
'It's Day Two. As we've skipped a day's walking, we're now halfway to the volcano. | 0:23:20 | 0:23:26 | |
'By this point on the route, I was hoping to get my first glimpse of Eyjafjallajokull, | 0:23:28 | 0:23:34 | |
'but the terrible weather has caught up with us again. | 0:23:34 | 0:23:39 | |
'The showers come and go all morning as we march on through black volcanic rock | 0:24:06 | 0:24:12 | |
'covered with a thick layer of dust and sand. But this isn't any old dust.' | 0:24:12 | 0:24:17 | |
Is this THE ash now? | 0:24:17 | 0:24:20 | |
Yeah, yeah. This is it. | 0:24:20 | 0:24:23 | |
This is the stuff that caused chaos all over Europe. What happened here? | 0:24:23 | 0:24:28 | |
The areas to the south of the glacier were very seriously affected, the farming areas. | 0:24:28 | 0:24:34 | |
-But it could have been much worse. -Much worse. If the wind had been blowing in a westerly direction, | 0:24:34 | 0:24:41 | |
or even to the north of Iceland and the farming lands there had been destroyed, | 0:24:41 | 0:24:47 | |
that would have had very serious consequences for everyone. | 0:24:47 | 0:24:51 | |
'In the thousand years Iceland has been inhabited, | 0:24:56 | 0:25:00 | |
'there have been over 250 eruptions in a volcanically-active zone covering a quarter of the country. | 0:25:00 | 0:25:06 | |
'Our trail runs through the heart of this zone, | 0:25:08 | 0:25:12 | |
'but many of Iceland's biggest settlements are also within it. | 0:25:12 | 0:25:17 | |
'I'm wondering just how dangerous is it to live here? | 0:25:17 | 0:25:21 | |
'Well, not nearly as deadly as you may imagine. In the last 100 years, | 0:25:22 | 0:25:27 | |
'only two people in Iceland have been killed by volcanoes - | 0:25:27 | 0:25:31 | |
'one, a scientist who was crushed by lava, | 0:25:31 | 0:25:35 | |
'the other, a man who was overcome by noxious gases while breaking in to a chemist's to steal drugs | 0:25:35 | 0:25:41 | |
'during a 1973 eruption here, on the offshore Westman Islands. | 0:25:41 | 0:25:46 | |
'The rain is back and I feel like an astronaut as I slog through this lunar landscape, | 0:25:52 | 0:25:58 | |
'cocooned in my wet weather gear. | 0:25:58 | 0:26:00 | |
'Heaving under its blanket of ash, this may not be the prettiest place I've walked, but I'm glad I did it. | 0:26:06 | 0:26:12 | |
'It's so fantastically odd. | 0:26:13 | 0:26:16 | |
'Nonetheless, it's a relief to see the hut for the night. | 0:26:25 | 0:26:29 | |
'We seem to have finally escaped the worst of the terrible weather. | 0:26:32 | 0:26:36 | |
'And the warden here has a welcome pot of coffee on the go.' | 0:26:36 | 0:26:41 | |
Why do you want to be a warden? What does the job give you? | 0:26:41 | 0:26:45 | |
It's a habit! | 0:26:45 | 0:26:47 | |
It's a very nice job, staying here. Usually I have my family with me. | 0:26:48 | 0:26:53 | |
-My wife and two kids and two dogs. -In this? | 0:26:53 | 0:26:58 | |
-In this house. -You call it a house! | 0:26:58 | 0:27:00 | |
-It's tiny! -Yeah. -All sleeping in here? -All sleeping in here. | 0:27:00 | 0:27:06 | |
-Two and one. -And the dogs? | 0:27:06 | 0:27:08 | |
Ahh. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:10 | |
-It's a bit like living on a boat. -I used to be a fisherman on a small boat. | 0:27:11 | 0:27:16 | |
-So it's probably the same. -Maybe that's why you like it. -Could be. | 0:27:16 | 0:27:22 | |
How many people can sleep in the huts? | 0:27:22 | 0:27:25 | |
It's about 60 people in the huts. | 0:27:25 | 0:27:28 | |
And when the weather is really bad, and more people knock on the door, what happens if you are full? | 0:27:28 | 0:27:35 | |
-We always manage to somehow... -Squeeze. -Sleep on the floor or somewhere. | 0:27:35 | 0:27:41 | |
-You make room for everybody. -Nobody has to stay out in crazy weather. | 0:27:41 | 0:27:45 | |
-How many years do you think you will carry on doing this for? -I'm not sure. Maybe this is the last summer, | 0:27:45 | 0:27:51 | |
but I don't know. I've been in it for six years. | 0:27:51 | 0:27:55 | |
But I will never stop going to the mountains. I'm a mountain man. | 0:27:55 | 0:28:00 | |
'This might not be the job for everyone, but I think it would be a wonderful way to spend the summer. | 0:28:03 | 0:28:10 | |
'Just look at this place. | 0:28:12 | 0:28:14 | |
'I have to say, I'm pretty jealous. | 0:28:15 | 0:28:18 | |
'It's Day Three. We're now three-quarters of the way along the Landmannalaugar Trail. | 0:28:29 | 0:28:35 | |
'The volcano we're heading towards sits under the Eyjafjallajokull Glacier, | 0:28:35 | 0:28:41 | |
'which is how the volcano got its name. | 0:28:41 | 0:28:45 | |
'Glaciers occur when ice builds up faster than it can melt, forming ice caps that stay all year round. | 0:28:45 | 0:28:51 | |
'It may seem surprising that a volcano is covered with ice, | 0:28:53 | 0:28:57 | |
'but because glaciers occur on high ground, many of Iceland's large volcanoes are covered with ice caps. | 0:28:57 | 0:29:03 | |
'We've got 12km to walk today to reach the base of this glacier. | 0:29:04 | 0:29:09 | |
'Tomorrow, all being well, we'll head up to the new hills | 0:29:09 | 0:29:12 | |
'formed by the outlet vents on the side of the volcano. | 0:29:12 | 0:29:16 | |
'One thing which shouldn't be too much of a problem is finding the right route. | 0:29:16 | 0:29:22 | |
'We've got an impressive feature to follow for most of the day.' | 0:29:23 | 0:29:27 | |
So, five minutes out of the hut, and this is our first epic view of the day. It's ridiculous! | 0:29:32 | 0:29:38 | |
Shall we go a little bit closer? | 0:29:38 | 0:29:41 | |
Yeah, yeah. | 0:29:41 | 0:29:44 | |
Even up here, what, a couple of hundred metres from the bottom, | 0:29:51 | 0:29:55 | |
-the sound of the water is so powerful. -Yeah. | 0:29:55 | 0:29:58 | |
Can you imagine what it was like at the end of the last glacial period, 8,000 years ago, | 0:29:58 | 0:30:04 | |
-when all this was being created by the melting ice? -The water was just carving through the rock. | 0:30:04 | 0:30:09 | |
And it's so young, 8,000 years ago. | 0:30:09 | 0:30:12 | |
When you talk about geology, you're used to hearing "millions of years ago". | 0:30:12 | 0:30:17 | |
8,000 years, I mean, it's a puppy. | 0:30:17 | 0:30:19 | |
Yes, but again we are in the middle of the volcanically active zone of Iceland | 0:30:19 | 0:30:24 | |
and it's all happening right now. | 0:30:24 | 0:30:27 | |
-Is this your Grand Canyon? -This is our Grand Canyon, yes. | 0:30:27 | 0:30:31 | |
'Although we're now only 12 kilometres from the glacier and its volcano, | 0:30:32 | 0:30:37 | |
'the weather up till now has been so bad, I still haven't seen it. | 0:30:37 | 0:30:41 | |
'But as we cross over a ridge midway through the morning, | 0:30:41 | 0:30:45 | |
'we suddenly get our first glimpse of the Big E. | 0:30:45 | 0:30:48 | |
'To the east, we can just make out the new vents, while ahead of us lies the main crater.' | 0:30:50 | 0:30:56 | |
So, Julia, that's it. That's our volcano. That's where we're heading. | 0:30:57 | 0:31:01 | |
-Our prize. -Yeah. | 0:31:01 | 0:31:04 | |
Can you make out the crater at the very top? The steam is rising up. It looks like clouds, but it's steam. | 0:31:04 | 0:31:10 | |
Because we've got cloud cover, you can't see it so easily. | 0:31:10 | 0:31:14 | |
You can see it coming up a bit, then slowly going down. | 0:31:14 | 0:31:17 | |
Can you see that little crater, like a little valley? That's it. | 0:31:17 | 0:31:21 | |
And the secondary crater is over this way. | 0:31:21 | 0:31:24 | |
We're definitely going to make it there. | 0:31:24 | 0:31:27 | |
-Then we're going to see what... -What happens. -What the future brings us. | 0:31:27 | 0:31:31 | |
-I want to make it there. -Yeah, so do I. | 0:31:31 | 0:31:34 | |
So do I. | 0:31:36 | 0:31:38 | |
'The canyon we're following is taking us down to a huge valley right in front of Eyjafjallajokull. | 0:31:44 | 0:31:50 | |
'Here, all the melting water from the surrounding glaciers | 0:31:54 | 0:31:58 | |
'join up to form a web of interlinking streams and rivers. | 0:31:58 | 0:32:02 | |
'The shifting banks and surging winter floods make bridging almost impossible... | 0:32:10 | 0:32:15 | |
'..which means we're going to have to cross the streams the old-fashioned way.' | 0:32:17 | 0:32:22 | |
OK... You know what? I think this looks like a good place, you know, to cross. | 0:32:24 | 0:32:30 | |
-It's not too wide, is it? -No. | 0:32:30 | 0:32:32 | |
Up there it was too violent, but here it is starting to break up into tributaries | 0:32:32 | 0:32:37 | |
-and we'll be able to cross the individual streams. -OK. | 0:32:37 | 0:32:41 | |
Let's just sit down, get our shoes off and I'll talk you through it. | 0:32:41 | 0:32:45 | |
It's going to be cold because this is a frozen glacier, isn't it? | 0:32:48 | 0:32:52 | |
Yeah, yeah, it's cold. It's a few degrees if we're lucky. | 0:32:52 | 0:32:56 | |
Take your time crossing. Keep your eye on the far bank and get over there. | 0:32:56 | 0:33:01 | |
-This is probably going to go up to our... -Up to our necks? | 0:33:01 | 0:33:05 | |
-Up to our necks. -Great! -Get everything off(!) | 0:33:05 | 0:33:09 | |
-Let's do a naked river crossing. -Naked river crossing! | 0:33:10 | 0:33:13 | |
And then tie your shoe laces together | 0:33:13 | 0:33:17 | |
and hang your shoes around your neck. | 0:33:17 | 0:33:20 | |
Agh! | 0:33:26 | 0:33:28 | |
-It's not so bad. -That was all right. | 0:33:34 | 0:33:36 | |
'Once we're across the river, we get another big surprise. | 0:33:39 | 0:33:43 | |
'Suddenly, we're into a beautiful, lush, green valley. | 0:33:44 | 0:33:48 | |
'It's incredible. | 0:33:48 | 0:33:50 | |
'This is about as much vegetation as I've seen anywhere in Iceland so far.' | 0:33:50 | 0:33:55 | |
Yet again, the landscape has changed. Why is it so green here? | 0:33:55 | 0:34:00 | |
Yeah, it's a very sheltered valley, you know, by the volcano, the glaciers. | 0:34:00 | 0:34:05 | |
And so the plants get the chance to grow. | 0:34:05 | 0:34:09 | |
The growing season is so short in Iceland. It's really only three months. | 0:34:09 | 0:34:14 | |
And even shorter sometimes in some areas. | 0:34:14 | 0:34:17 | |
Most places are windswept, so the plants just really never get a chance. | 0:34:17 | 0:34:22 | |
-But they do here. -Yeah. | 0:34:22 | 0:34:24 | |
'We've arrived at Thorsmork... | 0:34:31 | 0:34:34 | |
'..by far the biggest hut since Landmannalaugar.' | 0:34:35 | 0:34:40 | |
-So this is it. -This is it. -Home. | 0:34:40 | 0:34:43 | |
'And the most civilisation we've seen in three days. | 0:34:43 | 0:34:47 | |
'Before us sits the glacier of Eyjafjallajokull, | 0:34:51 | 0:34:56 | |
'dark and brooding under its thick blanket of ash. | 0:34:56 | 0:34:59 | |
'But it hasn't always looked like this. | 0:34:59 | 0:35:03 | |
'This footage of the glacier was taken prior to the 2010 eruption, | 0:35:03 | 0:35:07 | |
'back when it was pristine and white. | 0:35:07 | 0:35:10 | |
'Eyjafjallajokull has gone off on three previous occasions in the past one thousand years... | 0:35:13 | 0:35:20 | |
'..the last time being in 1821. | 0:35:21 | 0:35:24 | |
'However, the latest eruption didn't come out of the blue. | 0:35:24 | 0:35:28 | |
'Earthquakes, which usually precede an eruption, came and went throughout the 1990s | 0:35:28 | 0:35:34 | |
'and then started again in earnest during 2009. | 0:35:34 | 0:35:38 | |
'These earthquakes were seven to ten kilometres underground, | 0:35:40 | 0:35:44 | |
'but by early 2010, monitoring equipment showed the rumblings | 0:35:44 | 0:35:48 | |
'moving closer and closer to the surface. | 0:35:48 | 0:35:51 | |
'Just before midnight on the 20th of March, | 0:35:51 | 0:35:55 | |
'Eyjafjallajokull's 189-year sleep finally came to an end. | 0:35:55 | 0:36:01 | |
'One of the drivers who is supporting our trip is Kristjan. | 0:36:04 | 0:36:08 | |
'He's brought in supplies to feed my hungry crew, | 0:36:08 | 0:36:11 | |
'but he's also got some stunning photos from visits he made to the volcano during the eruptions.' | 0:36:11 | 0:36:18 | |
And this is during the first part of the eruption, the lava eruption. | 0:36:18 | 0:36:22 | |
And we went up on the third day, I think, after it started. | 0:36:23 | 0:36:27 | |
And what's this? It looks like a firework display. | 0:36:27 | 0:36:31 | |
This is when we're further into the night | 0:36:31 | 0:36:34 | |
and the light show became more spectacular. | 0:36:34 | 0:36:37 | |
You know, it's like watching fireworks for hours and hours. | 0:36:37 | 0:36:41 | |
It must have been just such a sensory overload - | 0:36:41 | 0:36:45 | |
the heat and the visuals and just the environment being up there. | 0:36:45 | 0:36:49 | |
Yes. All of that. | 0:36:49 | 0:36:51 | |
It's just amazing to see, | 0:36:51 | 0:36:54 | |
to feel the heat from the lava, the noise from the explosions, | 0:36:54 | 0:36:58 | |
and the rumbling of the lava when it's flowing. | 0:36:58 | 0:37:01 | |
-The sound feels a bit like being in an old factory... -With the rumble. | 0:37:01 | 0:37:05 | |
With the rumble and the squeaking. It's quite magnificent. | 0:37:05 | 0:37:09 | |
Have you seen anything like this in your life? | 0:37:09 | 0:37:12 | |
Actually, I've seen a few eruptions, but this one was very accessible. | 0:37:12 | 0:37:17 | |
So the first part of this eruption was in a good place, it was easy to access. | 0:37:17 | 0:37:23 | |
We could get all the way up to it. | 0:37:23 | 0:37:25 | |
This is obviously the ash cloud. | 0:37:25 | 0:37:28 | |
This picture was actually taken on the 17th of April. | 0:37:28 | 0:37:32 | |
If I remember correctly, that's the day when all the flights in Europe went down. | 0:37:32 | 0:37:37 | |
-Yeah, it stopped me. Thank you very much. -There was one airport open and that was in Iceland. | 0:37:37 | 0:37:43 | |
-Yeah, I'm sure. -We just shipped it over. | 0:37:43 | 0:37:46 | |
What was the difference between the first eruption and the second eruption? | 0:37:46 | 0:37:52 | |
The first eruption was a regular lava eruption like we have in volcanoes all over Iceland, | 0:37:52 | 0:37:57 | |
but the second eruption is under a glacier and that type of eruption is much more dangerous | 0:37:57 | 0:38:03 | |
because you have these huge explosions. | 0:38:03 | 0:38:06 | |
When we drove up, about one or two kilometres away from the crater, | 0:38:06 | 0:38:11 | |
we started to see these huge potholes on the glacier | 0:38:11 | 0:38:14 | |
which were up to five metres wide and four or five metres deep, | 0:38:14 | 0:38:18 | |
which we had to drive around. | 0:38:18 | 0:38:21 | |
And they were made by huge lava bombs which came flying 1,000 metres high | 0:38:21 | 0:38:26 | |
and about 500 to 1,000 metres away from the crater and dropped on the glacier. | 0:38:26 | 0:38:31 | |
-So just mega lava bombs? -Yeah. | 0:38:31 | 0:38:34 | |
And this went on all the way up to the crater. | 0:38:34 | 0:38:37 | |
We probably won't make it to the crater, but how close will we get? | 0:38:37 | 0:38:41 | |
I can take you to the outlet glacier from the crater where all the floods came down. | 0:38:41 | 0:38:46 | |
There used to be this beautiful glacier lake there, but now it's just all covered with ash. | 0:38:46 | 0:38:52 | |
-So it's an ash lake? -It's an ash lake, but you can see up the glacier and into the crater | 0:38:52 | 0:38:58 | |
-where it all was happening. -I can't wait. | 0:38:58 | 0:39:01 | |
'Kristjan drove up the glacier when the eruption first started. | 0:39:01 | 0:39:05 | |
'That was before the authorities closed the area down. | 0:39:05 | 0:39:09 | |
'It's now almost impossible to get permission to go all the way up. | 0:39:09 | 0:39:13 | |
'We're still hoping my request will be successful, | 0:39:13 | 0:39:17 | |
'but this trip out to the ash lake in front of the main crater | 0:39:17 | 0:39:21 | |
'may well be as close as I ever get. | 0:39:21 | 0:39:23 | |
'This is a view of the lake that used to sit in front of the volcano, | 0:39:25 | 0:39:30 | |
'the one that Kristjan thought was so beautiful. | 0:39:30 | 0:39:33 | |
'Now look at it. | 0:39:35 | 0:39:37 | |
'It's like he's brought me to the Gates of Mordor.' | 0:39:37 | 0:39:41 | |
-So this used to be your lake? -Yeah. | 0:39:51 | 0:39:55 | |
And now it looks like a car park. | 0:39:55 | 0:39:57 | |
Oh, yeah. Everything around looks different. | 0:39:57 | 0:40:00 | |
At the top, up at the glacier, I would say it's about 50 metres higher than it was. | 0:40:00 | 0:40:06 | |
Down here at the bottom, where the river is running, | 0:40:06 | 0:40:10 | |
it's about 20 metres lower than it was. | 0:40:10 | 0:40:13 | |
You can imagine the amount of material which has been brought down | 0:40:13 | 0:40:18 | |
because the lake was deep as well. | 0:40:18 | 0:40:21 | |
Can we go down there? Can we walk on there? | 0:40:21 | 0:40:23 | |
No. This area is declared "a danger zone" | 0:40:23 | 0:40:27 | |
because not only did a lot of mud and water flow down here, | 0:40:27 | 0:40:32 | |
from the glacier, it took massive icebergs and buried it in the sand. | 0:40:32 | 0:40:37 | |
And it creates quicksand. | 0:40:37 | 0:40:39 | |
-Ooh! -Well, we could maybe walk, but we might not come back. | 0:40:39 | 0:40:44 | |
-If you didn't know this was a danger zone, you could easily wander across there. -It looks harmless. -Yeah. | 0:40:44 | 0:40:50 | |
-But it isn't. Believe me. -I do believe you, Kristjan. | 0:40:50 | 0:40:54 | |
-So this landscape has changed for ever? -It has changed, but that's just how it is. | 0:40:54 | 0:40:59 | |
-One day, green will fight its way back. -Yeah, and white. | 0:40:59 | 0:41:04 | |
Because obviously, the glacier isn't very white now. | 0:41:04 | 0:41:08 | |
'Frustrating as it may be, I can understand | 0:41:08 | 0:41:10 | |
'why the authorities don't want too many people climbing up to the main crater. | 0:41:10 | 0:41:16 | |
'It looks pretty hairy up there, but it's got me fired up for our trip tomorrow - | 0:41:16 | 0:41:21 | |
'our final assault on the Big E.' | 0:41:21 | 0:41:23 | |
'Our route for the final day will take us up to the two new hills | 0:41:39 | 0:41:43 | |
'formed by the lava vents on the side of the volcano. | 0:41:43 | 0:41:47 | |
'These are about ten kilometres east of the main crater at the centre of Eyjafjallajokull. | 0:41:47 | 0:41:53 | |
'There is still no word on our application to go up to this main crater, | 0:41:55 | 0:42:00 | |
'but even if we aren't able to get up there, our trip today will take us to the newest hills in the world. | 0:42:00 | 0:42:07 | |
'It should be a spectacular day and I'm itching to get going.' | 0:42:08 | 0:42:12 | |
-Cute little bridge. -Yeah, it's cute. | 0:42:13 | 0:42:17 | |
'But before we get to the vents, I've got a gruelling walk ahead of me. | 0:42:20 | 0:42:25 | |
'We'll be hiking for about eight hours, | 0:42:29 | 0:42:33 | |
'the first five of which will be a relentless climb.' | 0:42:33 | 0:42:37 | |
This is the valley that we're looking at. | 0:43:10 | 0:43:13 | |
We have a nice view of it now. | 0:43:13 | 0:43:15 | |
And it's sheltered by three glaciers - | 0:43:15 | 0:43:18 | |
a small one, in fact, a tiny one over this way which we can see in that direction, | 0:43:18 | 0:43:24 | |
a rather large one, Myrdalsjokull, in that direction. | 0:43:24 | 0:43:29 | |
Mm-hm. Where's our one? | 0:43:29 | 0:43:31 | |
-Eyjafjallajokull is over there and you can see it just between those two hills there. -Oh, yeah. | 0:43:31 | 0:43:38 | |
-And we are approximately here on the map. -Mm-hm. | 0:43:38 | 0:43:43 | |
And we've got 500 metres to go. | 0:43:43 | 0:43:46 | |
-When you say we've got 500 metres to go, you don't just mean we've got 500 metres to walk? -No. | 0:43:46 | 0:43:52 | |
-No, we've got to gain 500 metres. -In altitude. -In altitude, yeah. | 0:43:52 | 0:43:57 | |
We're going up to 1,100 metres | 0:43:57 | 0:43:59 | |
and about eight kilometres. | 0:43:59 | 0:44:01 | |
-OK, so lungs and knees in action. -Absolutely. | 0:44:01 | 0:44:05 | |
'As we climb higher, the vegetation once more gives way to ash and rock. | 0:44:12 | 0:44:17 | |
'It's a thrilling and exciting feeling. | 0:44:22 | 0:44:25 | |
'We're getting close to the new crater now. | 0:44:25 | 0:44:28 | |
'As we cross a huge plateau, we come across yet another awesome sight.' | 0:44:30 | 0:44:35 | |
What I wanted to show you here is the lava flow from the eruption | 0:44:37 | 0:44:43 | |
and you can see that it came over this ridge | 0:44:43 | 0:44:47 | |
and it fell down in a wall of fire, | 0:44:47 | 0:44:50 | |
in a cascade, in a lava fall, | 0:44:50 | 0:44:53 | |
and poured down here into the gorge. | 0:44:53 | 0:44:56 | |
It must have been such a spectacle, a burning flow of red. | 0:44:56 | 0:45:00 | |
Yeah, red-hot lava just tumbling down there. It was magnificent. | 0:45:00 | 0:45:05 | |
Now we're going to head over that ridge | 0:45:06 | 0:45:08 | |
and we're eventually going to get to the eruption site. | 0:45:08 | 0:45:12 | |
-We've still got so far to go! -Yes, we do. | 0:45:12 | 0:45:16 | |
'Looking back as we climb, you can see the green river valley where we started this morning | 0:45:31 | 0:45:37 | |
'and the big plateau we just crossed. | 0:45:37 | 0:45:40 | |
'The climbing seems to go on and on.' | 0:45:41 | 0:45:45 | |
My thighs are killing me! | 0:45:48 | 0:45:50 | |
'It may be exhausting, but my tiredness is starting to be replaced with rising excitement.' | 0:45:52 | 0:45:58 | |
-You did a little sidestep there. -A bit of skiing. | 0:46:05 | 0:46:08 | |
'We finally reach the new hills created by the eruption. | 0:46:21 | 0:46:26 | |
'The sight that greets us is breathtaking, terrifying and thrilling. | 0:46:30 | 0:46:35 | |
'The power of the Earth is almost overwhelming. | 0:46:40 | 0:46:44 | |
'The heat is shimmering all around us and the sulphur-laden air is rasping at my throat. | 0:46:44 | 0:46:50 | |
'We need to keep moving as breathing this in for too long can be quite toxic. | 0:46:52 | 0:46:57 | |
'Yet somehow they are not how I expected volcanoes to look. | 0:47:02 | 0:47:06 | |
'They're not so much cones, more like raging rivers that are frozen in mid-flow.' | 0:47:06 | 0:47:11 | |
COUGHING | 0:47:26 | 0:47:28 | |
We can't see where we're going. | 0:47:29 | 0:47:32 | |
COUGHING CONTINUES | 0:47:38 | 0:47:41 | |
'These vents are constantly monitored. | 0:47:48 | 0:47:50 | |
'If there was imminent danger of another eruption, we wouldn't be allowed up here, | 0:47:50 | 0:47:56 | |
'but we still need to watch where we're walking.' | 0:47:56 | 0:47:59 | |
OK, Jules, I want you to come over here and be really, really careful. | 0:48:01 | 0:48:06 | |
I want you to look inside this crevice and tell me what you see. | 0:48:06 | 0:48:11 | |
Oh! We really are at the gates to Hell! | 0:48:14 | 0:48:17 | |
-It's the burning core... -Yeah. -..of the Earth. -Yes. -Look at that! | 0:48:17 | 0:48:22 | |
That's right. Maybe, what, 20, 30 centimetres beneath our feet? | 0:48:23 | 0:48:28 | |
-Yes... -We are on a volcano! | 0:48:30 | 0:48:32 | |
'In all my walks, I don't think I've ever been to a hill that's less than six months old. | 0:48:46 | 0:48:52 | |
'It's extraordinary.' | 0:48:52 | 0:48:55 | |
I love the heat. You can feel it just hitting your face. | 0:48:58 | 0:49:02 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:49:12 | 0:49:15 | |
-The newest hill in the world? -Yeah. | 0:49:21 | 0:49:23 | |
That's right. | 0:49:23 | 0:49:26 | |
Explain to me exactly how all of this was formed when the volcano went off. | 0:49:30 | 0:49:35 | |
We're standing right now on the first crater, the one that first went off, | 0:49:35 | 0:49:40 | |
and the lava that came from this crater went in this direction, over there, where it fell into the ravine. | 0:49:40 | 0:49:46 | |
And we saw the lava fall that was created. | 0:49:46 | 0:49:48 | |
And then this crater paused for a while | 0:49:48 | 0:49:51 | |
and this other crater, a smaller one, over there, started erupting. | 0:49:51 | 0:49:57 | |
-Have these been named yet? -Yes, they have. | 0:49:57 | 0:50:00 | |
-We're standing on Magni. -Magni? | 0:50:00 | 0:50:03 | |
And that is his little brother Modi over there. | 0:50:03 | 0:50:06 | |
And they were the sons of Thor, | 0:50:06 | 0:50:11 | |
the thunder god in Nordic mythology. | 0:50:11 | 0:50:14 | |
And the valley which we walked up from this morning is called Thorsmork, | 0:50:14 | 0:50:20 | |
"the valley or the woods of Thor". | 0:50:20 | 0:50:22 | |
-So these are the sons? -These are the sons. -I can't believe we're standing on them. | 0:50:22 | 0:50:27 | |
-And they're hot. -They're hot, yeah. | 0:50:27 | 0:50:30 | |
-Shall we have a little sit down? -Yes. We should sit down. | 0:50:30 | 0:50:34 | |
It's not every day you get to do this. | 0:50:34 | 0:50:37 | |
Not every day, no. | 0:50:37 | 0:50:39 | |
Oh, I've got a warm bottom! | 0:50:40 | 0:50:42 | |
HANNA GIGGLES | 0:50:47 | 0:50:49 | |
-You really could stay here all day. -Yeah. | 0:50:49 | 0:50:52 | |
Camping here wouldn't be a problem... It would be eventually because you'd kill yourself. | 0:50:52 | 0:50:57 | |
-From the fumes? -Yeah. Apart from that, at least it's warm. -It's getting a bit too warm. | 0:50:57 | 0:51:03 | |
-I'm still fine. -Are you? | 0:51:03 | 0:51:05 | |
I got the hotter part. | 0:51:05 | 0:51:07 | |
# Na-na-na-na-na! # | 0:51:07 | 0:51:10 | |
Ow, it is quite hot, yeah! | 0:51:12 | 0:51:14 | |
'I've reached my goal. | 0:51:22 | 0:51:24 | |
'We've walked to the newest hill in the world. | 0:51:24 | 0:51:28 | |
'But all too quickly, we need to get moving again. | 0:51:28 | 0:51:32 | |
'We've still got to walk out to meet Kristjan who will drive us down the other side of the mountain. | 0:51:34 | 0:51:40 | |
'He's going to meet us at one of the unmanned huts | 0:51:45 | 0:51:49 | |
'which is there for anyone to use if they get caught by the weather up here.' | 0:51:49 | 0:51:54 | |
There's a welcome Viking face! | 0:51:55 | 0:51:57 | |
We did it! | 0:52:00 | 0:52:02 | |
Welcome, girls. How did it go? | 0:52:02 | 0:52:04 | |
Oh, it was amazing! | 0:52:05 | 0:52:07 | |
Some of the best walking in my life, for sure. What incredible things we've seen! I can't believe it. | 0:52:07 | 0:52:13 | |
-Just too much to take in in a few days. Too much to see. -Amazing. | 0:52:13 | 0:52:18 | |
I have even better news. I've spoken to the mountain guides' office. | 0:52:18 | 0:52:22 | |
They've been in contact with the authorities and we have been allowed to go up to the top. | 0:52:22 | 0:52:28 | |
-To the top of the Big E? -Oh, yeah. -No? | 0:52:28 | 0:52:31 | |
We're going even further up. | 0:52:31 | 0:52:34 | |
'It may be a bit of a cheat to end my most exciting walk ever by helicopter, | 0:52:36 | 0:52:42 | |
'but with a prize like a trip to the main crater on offer, I'm not saying no. | 0:52:42 | 0:52:48 | |
'We're the first people to come up here for four months, | 0:52:48 | 0:52:52 | |
'but because of all the unstable ice, it's been decided that flying is the only viable way up. | 0:52:52 | 0:52:59 | |
'We're flying up over the huge tongue of ice | 0:53:09 | 0:53:13 | |
'that leads from the crater down to the ash lake that Kristjan showed me.' | 0:53:13 | 0:53:19 | |
'So I'm finishing my trip with a taxi service | 0:53:44 | 0:53:47 | |
'right to the spot that Ari described to me at the start of the week. | 0:53:47 | 0:53:53 | |
'I'm one of the few people to visit the summit of the volcano | 0:53:53 | 0:53:57 | |
'that's caused so many problems across Europe.' | 0:53:57 | 0:54:00 | |
-So, in 30 years, you've never been up here? -Never. | 0:54:01 | 0:54:05 | |
And I'm imagining that you and I will never have seen anything like this in our lives. | 0:54:05 | 0:54:10 | |
Nothing in our life. | 0:54:10 | 0:54:12 | |
-Little holes all over... -Yeah. | 0:54:13 | 0:54:16 | |
-Let's keep away from those. -There's a little promontory there. Let's... | 0:54:16 | 0:54:21 | |
-It is like some lunar surface up here. -It's just... | 0:54:25 | 0:54:29 | |
No-one's been up here. You know? | 0:54:30 | 0:54:33 | |
This ash spewed out of the volcano. | 0:54:41 | 0:54:45 | |
-Oh, my... -Oh, God! | 0:54:45 | 0:54:48 | |
-This is... -Oh! -..the most extraordinary... | 0:55:08 | 0:55:11 | |
Look at those enormous, great grooves. | 0:55:12 | 0:55:15 | |
How close do you think we can go? | 0:55:28 | 0:55:31 | |
Just stunning. | 0:55:37 | 0:55:39 | |
Oh! | 0:55:42 | 0:55:44 | |
-It makes you want to cry. -It does. | 0:55:48 | 0:55:51 | |
It's extraordinary. | 0:55:51 | 0:55:53 | |
-You see, that's the crater over there. -Yeah. -Right there. | 0:55:54 | 0:55:58 | |
And this was just a huge, | 0:55:59 | 0:56:02 | |
smooth, white, | 0:56:02 | 0:56:04 | |
ice glacier? | 0:56:04 | 0:56:06 | |
Yeah, pristine white. | 0:56:06 | 0:56:09 | |
Then in the eruption, once the lava started flowing, | 0:56:09 | 0:56:12 | |
which didn't happen immediately because it was an explosive eruption under the glacier, | 0:56:12 | 0:56:18 | |
it carved a tunnel through the ice all the way down that glacial tongue that we just flew over. | 0:56:18 | 0:56:24 | |
It was so hot, it was burning its way through and underneath the glacier, then it's all collapsed in? | 0:56:24 | 0:56:30 | |
Yeah. And there's massive crevasses down there. | 0:56:30 | 0:56:34 | |
These are hundreds of metres. | 0:56:34 | 0:56:37 | |
Massive. | 0:56:38 | 0:56:40 | |
You actually... Even from here, | 0:56:40 | 0:56:43 | |
-the scale of those big crevasses is unimaginable. -Yeah. | 0:56:43 | 0:56:48 | |
And look at the colour. It's black! | 0:56:52 | 0:56:54 | |
It's black. There's a really, really thick layer of ash there. | 0:56:55 | 0:57:00 | |
And see the steam? The steam is coming out because actually it's still really hot in there. | 0:57:02 | 0:57:08 | |
And there's still some ice, so the melting is still going on. | 0:57:08 | 0:57:13 | |
And the vapour moving makes it look as if the landscape is moving, doesn't it? | 0:57:13 | 0:57:18 | |
I don't think I'll ever see anything quite like this again. | 0:57:18 | 0:57:22 | |
It's amazing, isn't it? | 0:57:26 | 0:57:28 | |
Just incredible. | 0:57:28 | 0:57:31 | |
Eyja...fjalla...jokull. | 0:57:32 | 0:57:35 | |
That's it. Excellent. | 0:57:35 | 0:57:37 | |
You're very good at this language. | 0:57:37 | 0:57:40 | |
-It's not easy. -THEY LAUGH | 0:57:41 | 0:57:44 | |
"The Big E" is definitely easier. | 0:57:44 | 0:57:46 | |
-And it is right now... -Yeah. | 0:57:47 | 0:57:50 | |
It's the Big E. Come on. | 0:57:50 | 0:57:53 | |
Yeah. | 0:57:53 | 0:57:55 | |
Wow! | 0:57:55 | 0:57:56 | |
This is now one of the most infamous volcanoes in the world | 0:58:00 | 0:58:05 | |
and it's the end point for the best walk of my life. | 0:58:05 | 0:58:08 | |
Iceland is utterly absorbing and so exciting. I can't wait to come back for my next adventure. | 0:58:08 | 0:58:14 | |
And who knows how it will have changed by then? | 0:58:14 | 0:58:17 | |
Eyjafjallajokull, I love you! | 0:58:17 | 0:58:20 | |
Subtitles by Subtext for Red Bee Media Ltd 2011 | 0:58:49 | 0:58:54 | |
Email [email protected] | 0:58:54 | 0:58:57 |