Indonesia to Australia Indian Ocean with Simon Reeve


Indonesia to Australia

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The Indian Ocean, home to the world's most exotic islands...

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..and beautiful and rare wildlife.

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I'm travelling through 16 countries around the edge of this vast ocean

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that stretches 6,000 miles from Africa to Australia.

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Steeped in history, the Indian Ocean is vital to world trade.

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It's a journey of extremes,

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from stunning islands,

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across pirate-infested seas,

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to remote villages...

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Salama.

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..and war-torn lands.

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-GUNSHOT

-What was that?

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This is a journey about much more than just what's under the waves.

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It's about the lives of the millions of people...

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..who live around this, one of our greatest oceans.

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On this last leg of my journey, I'm travelling through Indonesia

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and down the coast towards my final destination in the southwest of Australia.

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In the beautiful waters off Bali,

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I help to harvest an ocean wonder crop.

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Aaaaah!

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In Jakarta, I go undercover

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to learn more about the disturbing international trade in exotic pets.

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You are not happy, are you? Poor things.

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And in the remote wilderness of Western Australia,

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I have a close encounter with an ancient predator...

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God, look at those teeth!

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Cor!

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..before I reach the end of my entire Indian Ocean journey

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at spectacular Cape Leeuwin.

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I'm starting this final part of my Indian Ocean journey here

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at the northern tip of the Indonesian island of Sumatra.

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This is Aceh, a beautiful region of Indonesia,

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which became known around the world

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because of one of the biggest natural disasters in modern history.

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On Boxing Day, 2004, a huge earthquake

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with the power of more than 20,000 atomic bombs

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shook the Indian Ocean and triggered a tsunami.

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A giant wave rolled in here and almost wiped this region off the map.

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The Indian Ocean tsunami hit the province of Aceh harder than anywhere else.

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Almost 170,000 people lost their lives here.

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The power of the giant wave tossed boats and even huge ships miles inland.

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Some have been left as poignant reminders of the day the wave struck.

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We're three miles inland here. Three miles.

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I can see the sea in the distance on the horizon

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and this ship carved its way through the houses

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on the way to its resting place here.

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But with the help of international aid, Aceh's been rebuilt.

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It's once again a thriving centre of trade.

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Aceh juts out into the Indian Ocean, so, almost inevitably,

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this became a great trading centre.

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Merchants would travel from across the seas

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to come here to buy spices, timber, ivory and gold.

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In exchange, those merchants brought their religion here.

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This is thought to be where Islam first got a foothold in Indonesia.

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It spread out from this island to the rest of the country

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and Indonesia is now the most populous Islamic nation on the planet.

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The vast majority of the 250 million people in Indonesia are Muslim.

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Aceh is one of the most conservative parts of the country

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and here they've introduced Islamic or sharia law.

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MAN ISSUES ORDERS

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Sharia law means all aspects of life are governed by an Islamic religious code.

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This religious police squad is known as the Vice and Virtue Patrol.

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So you're kindly going to allow us to come with you

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on patrol, that's very good of you.

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So, we're out on patrol with the squad. There's more vehicles following behind us.

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Why do people call you the Vice and Virtue Squad?

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TRANSLATION: We want the Koran To become a positive force

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in people's lives.

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We want religious law to govern our country.

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So, where are we heading to first?

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We're patrolling an area

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where we often find unmarried couples cavorting.

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SIMON: The religious law in Aceh says

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that unmarried couples are not allowed out together without supervision,

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and physical contact is out of the question.

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We're stopping already, not sure why.

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What's he doing?

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As we were driving along, he spotted couples down on the river bank here

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and he's leapt off to go and, er... well, catch them, I suppose.

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I think they saw him coming.

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So, there's a couple there who are racing off.

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TRANSLATION: Yes, when we're on patrol, and we spot people breaking the law,

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they just run from us, ashamed.

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So, do you suspect they would be an unmarried couple

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who were having some sort of saucy courtship, then?

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Look, there's more going away, they're racing off there on scooters.

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TRANSLATION: Theyy wouldn't bother running away if they were married

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or if they were brother and sister from the same family.

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But are they really doing something so wrong?

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Yes, according to Acehnese law, they are.

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SIMON: The Vice and Virtue Squad usually just issue youngsters with warnings.

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But for persistent breaches of religious law, the punishments can be severe.

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There, there, there! Hello!

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There are public canings in Aceh, and religious hardliners

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have called for adultery to be punished by death by stoning.

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They've raced in there. I presume that...they've spotted somebody doing something quite serious.

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So, look, this guy with the long hair, I think, is grassing...

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grassing up some teenagers.

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It looked like this young couple were in real trouble.

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This is very surreal.

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Looks like they're leading them away.

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She's being taken away. Does she know what she did?

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What will happen to her? Where will you take her?

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Scores and scores of people have come to see

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this poor couple of kids being taken away. It's, er...

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pretty much a public humiliation for them, I think it's fair to say.

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And they're now being taken away to the religious police HQ.

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From my European perspective, it all seemed very odd and rather sad.

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It just feels like in this corner of Indonesia...

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..people are being denied some of the basic delights of being

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a teenager and a young adult.

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The right to associate with who you want, the right to meet boys or meet girls.

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RELIGIOUS CHANTING

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-Take our life in our hands. You lead.

-LAUGHS

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It was time for me to head on with my guide, Shinta Okta.

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-Hello, Shinta.

-Hi, Simon.

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Shinta's going to be my guide across... well, across Indonesia.

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We're not going to visit every island because there are...

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How many islands in Indonesia?

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Almost 17,500.

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-We must be accurate about this.

-Yeah, yeah.

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No island should be missed.

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All right, but we're not going to be able to visit very many of them, because you were just telling me...

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How long would it take if you visited an island a day?

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48 years.

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We haven't got that long, but we'll see a bit of the country.

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Shinta took me to the fish market in the region's capital, Banda Aceh.

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I've tried to visit as many fish markets as I can around the Indian Ocean

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because they tell you so much about, not only life around the sea,

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but life in it as well - what's happening to life in it.

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The fishermen told me they now have to travel as far as the sea off Burma to fish

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because marine life in this part of the Indian Ocean has been severely depleted.

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Good God!

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He's bringing a ray in.

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They've got a shark here.

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I would have just seen this as a frightening fish

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when I started this journey. Now, seeing it here,

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it's like seeing a lion or a tiger on a slab -

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apex predator of the seas.

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Still with its fins on, but not for long.

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Since the start of my Indian Ocean journey,

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I'd regularly seen local fishermen

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pulling sharks out of the ocean and slicing off their fins.

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Millions of sharks are taken from our seas every month,

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and Indonesia is the major global player in this tragic trade.

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Indonesia is the biggest shark-fishing and shark-finning country in the world.

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They're the central ingredient in shark fin soup - a Chinese/Asian delicacy.

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It's a fairly obscene trade, but...

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you try telling that to a poor Indonesian fisherman who's trying to feed his family.

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It's not just Indonesia's ocean wildlife that's under threat.

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Ohh!

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-Good to go?

-Yeah, ready, sir.

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On land too, these islands are home to endangered and beautiful animals,

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including tigers, rhinos and orang-utans.

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I left Banda Aceh and headed to the neighbouring Indonesian island of Java,

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the most heavily populated island on Earth,

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in search of one very special creature.

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Java was once cloaked in a giant and almost impenetrable rainforest.

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But most of this habitat has been annihilated

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by the growing human population.

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Forests have been destroyed in Indonesia faster than anywhere in the world.

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Look at that.

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We're on the edge of a village now,

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just a couple of hundred metres from where people are living,

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and of course, they chop the trees to give themselves somewhere to farm.

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It's not actually that we are close to the village, it's that the village

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is too close to the forest.

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SIMON LAUGHS Yeah?

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So, I mean, like, this is a problem of the population here in Java.

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Karmele Sanchez is a Spanish veterinary scientist working for the charity

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International Animal Rescue.

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She was taking me high into a protected pocket of rainforest

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to see one of the rarest and most bizarre animals on the planet.

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I think I've sweated about a pint already.

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Up here, Karmele and her team have built an enclosure,

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where they hang bait to tempt the mysterious animal

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down from the forest canopy.

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So, now we wait.

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As darkness fell, we switched our cameras to night vision.

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KARMELE: Yes, there... Now. You see? Now, now, now...

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You can see the eyes, yes.

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The Javan slow loris is among the 25 most endangered primates in the world.

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In just three generations, numbers have collapsed by a half.

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-He's coming down, he's coming down.

-He's coming down?!

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Hello.

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He spreads his weight carefully, look.

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With this wind, look how he can balance his body.

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A nocturnal animal, the slow loris is a master tree climber.

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Well, he's having a good scratch.

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You must get enormous satisfaction from seeing this.

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I mean, this is what it makes everything worth.

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For more than five years, Karmele and the team from International Animal Rescue

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have been working to protect slow lorises.

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She knows many of them by name.

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Our visitor was called Willis.

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Willis - I think he's decided to come down the tree.

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You've got to see this.

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Here he comes!

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While Willis scoffed his treat, the scientists caught him.

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The battery in his tracking collar needed replacing.

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Good lad.

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Then they did a few basic tests to check his health.

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That's a fantastic sign.

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Bye-bye, Willis.

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Willis is headed back up into the trees.

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It was a real...privilege to see this because it is a remarkable success story.

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Around the Indian Ocean,

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forests are being cleared for farming and chopped for timber.

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Animals are losing their habitat and their numbers are collapsing.

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But there's another huge threat to creatures like Willis -

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the illegal global trade in exotic pets.

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So, how many lorises have you actually got here?

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-90.

-Where have they all come from?

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They all come from the illegal wildlife trade.

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-All of them?

-All of them, yeah.

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They often arrive here with horrific injuries.

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Look at this.

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This is a toothless loris.

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And the reason it doesn't have any teeth there

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is because somebody has cut its teeth out.

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Mm-hm, you see. Bad trading.

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They're surely among the top ten cutest creatures on the planet.

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And therein lies their problem.

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They may look cute, but they're wild animals with a painful and venomous bite,

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unique among primates.

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So pet traders cruelly rip out their teeth with pliers before selling them on.

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-Who's buying them?

-It's normally people from middle class.

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They just see them in the markets, they think they are cute

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and they just buy them, they keep them as pets.

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-That's illegal, isn't it?

-It is.

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How do they get away with it?

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The same as the animals... are not just traders,

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they are sometimes big mafias and networks of people,

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probably in quite high up positions, you know.

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It's a very profitable business.

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It's a business worth up to 10 billion a year globally.

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Wildlife trade is definitely one of the top illegal activities

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after drugs and arms.

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12 hours ago, we were up that mountain with Willis the loris.

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Now we're down here with millions of people.

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Shinta and I headed towards Jakarta,

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Indonesia's vast capital city,

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to find out more about this hugely damaging illegal trade in wildlife.

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This is the real Indonesia.

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I expected more seats.

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More than 30 million people live in the area around this city.

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Most of them seem to be on our train.

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Where the hell are they going?

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-To the roof.

-They're going to the roof?

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Yeah.

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I'll sit on your bag and you stand the whole way.

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What a gentleman, Simon(!)

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HORN BLARES

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Vibrant and exciting.

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Jakarta's the centre of the booming Indonesian economy.

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But I'd heard about a pet market in the centre of town

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with a reputation for selling endangered species.

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It's an open street market, but I've been warned that violent criminal gangs control it

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and our TV cameras would not be welcome,

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so it was time to go undercover with hidden cameras.

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My God.

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The conditions they're being held in are totally inappropriate for any creature.

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You are not happy, are you?

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You poor things.

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Thousands of creatures are sold here and many of them

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are smuggled out of the country.

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Among the birds and domestic animals, we saw cages containing long-tailed macaques,

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leaf monkeys and even eagles in cramped, unhealthy conditions.

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Within a few minutes, we'd spotted slow lorises.

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So, this is an endangered slow loris.

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It's rare, it's endangered...

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...and it's for sale by the side of the main road.

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500,000?

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-So, that's less than £50.

-Yes.

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£40.

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I was told that traders in the area can supply orang-utans and even tigers,

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creatures that are on the brink of extinction in parts of Indonesia.

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I think what's really amazing about that situation is those animals are for sale

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next to the main road in the centre of the capital city.

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Why is the Indonesian government not doing something to stop it?

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It was time to leave Java and head towards the Indian Ocean paradise island of Bali.

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But I was bypassing the tourist resorts this area is famous for.

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Instead, I took a boat

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to the tiny island of Nusa Lembongan.

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This place looks amazing.

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You can see there's a few huts here

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for tourists who make it over to this island from Bali,

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but the vast majority of the people here are involved not in tourism

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but in a rather different trade.

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I'd come to this far corner of the Indian Ocean

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to learn about an unlikely treasure of the seas,

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found everywhere, that could have huge implications for all of us,

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for how we eat, and for what we use to power our cars and vehicles.

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Simon, this is Wyan.

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Wyan? Simon. Very nice to meet you, sir.

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Wyan Simon and his wife Evelu are farmers.

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But they don't plough the land or tend animals.

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Hello. Simon.

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Hello! Do I get a handshake?

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LAUGHTER

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Do I get a handshake?

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Their crop comes out of the Indian Ocean.

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Wyan took Shinta and I out to see his farm in the sea.

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The water here is amazingly clear.

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It's like we're going over the top of a series of gardens.

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There's seaweed, tied onto bits of rope, attached to the sea bed!

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It's like an underwater allotment.

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Captain! What do we need to do? What work needs to be done that I can help with?

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SIMON LAUGHS

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-OK?

-OK, let's go! I'll help.

-OK!

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SHE LAUGHS

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Wyan and the other islanders here grow edible seaweed,

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and it's a pretty simple process.

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Seaweed cuttings are tied onto a line of string.

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They grow by using sunlight for energy,

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and by absorbing nutrients from the sea as food.

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This doesn't need lots of land space to grow it,

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it doesn't need awful artificial fertilisers,

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it doesn't need lots of fresh water.

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It just grows in the sea.

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Seaweed is amazing.

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THEY LAUGH

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Aaaaah!

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SHE LAUGHS

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Thank you, Simon.

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This seaweed is something of a wonder crop

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and many experts think we need to be eating a lot more of it

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because it's so easy to grow and it's a good source of vitamins,

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minerals and protein.

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Perhaps most excitingly of all,

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scientists have now worked out how to convert seaweed into ethanol,

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which can be used as an alternative to petrol.

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It has...enormous potential.

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Seaweed could actually help us to resolve some of our most pressing global issues.

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You're already using seaweed extract

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in dozens of products ranging from ice cream to cheese,

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even in your toothpaste.

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The seaweed trade is already worth billions of pounds every year,

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but it's going to get a lot bigger.

0:26:080:26:10

Wyan's seaweed is sold around the world

0:26:100:26:13

to China, Hong Kong and as far afield as Denmark.

0:26:130:26:16

It's a good business to be in.

0:26:160:26:18

TRANSLATION: It's been brilliant since day one.

0:26:200:26:24

Now we can pay for our children's clothes, we can eat. We're very happy.

0:26:240:26:28

Family's happy, missus is happy, children are being educated.

0:26:300:26:34

-Exactly!

-Everybody's doing well out of it.

0:26:340:26:37

People are making a great living, not from fishing,

0:26:460:26:50

but from farming seaweed.

0:26:500:26:53

Who'd have thought it, eh?

0:26:540:26:56

Every day,

0:27:000:27:01

the people of Nusa Lembongan give thanks

0:27:010:27:03

for the prosperity the Indian Ocean brings them.

0:27:030:27:06

This is such a fantastic little story to encounter on our journey.

0:27:070:27:15

I've seen so much suffering and so many problems

0:27:230:27:26

as we've been travelling around the Indian Ocean.

0:27:260:27:29

We've visited so many communities that are just about clinging on,

0:27:290:27:34

even as the fish stocks they rely on are being wiped out.

0:27:340:27:36

I'm really delighted to have found at least one solution to the problems

0:27:380:27:43

facing our oceans, and our world, here,

0:27:430:27:45

in this little corner of paradise.

0:27:450:27:48

Feels appropriate, somehow.

0:27:480:27:50

Whoa!

0:27:510:27:52

Magnificent sight!

0:27:560:27:58

The Indian Ocean rolling in.

0:27:590:28:01

I left Indonesia behind and headed to the last country on my travels, Australia.

0:28:100:28:16

My next stop was the Kimberley region of Western Australia.

0:28:160:28:20

I was 1,500 miles from the finishing line for my entire Indian Ocean journey.

0:28:200:28:24

And I'd arrived somewhere completely spectacular.

0:28:270:28:31

The Kimberley is more than three times the size of England

0:28:310:28:35

and one of the last remaining true wilderness areas on our planet.

0:28:350:28:39

That's where we're headed, down to that beautiful island.

0:28:410:28:43

This archipelago is made up of thousands of Indian Ocean islands,

0:28:450:28:49

most of them uninhabited.

0:28:490:28:51

I'd come to meet a few of the rugged outback types hardy enough to work here.

0:28:580:29:04

Bloody hell, Benno, what a place to work!

0:29:040:29:06

Pretty amazing, isn't it, mate?

0:29:060:29:08

Ben Little and his team are fish farmers.

0:29:110:29:14

He told me their cages were packed

0:29:140:29:16

with one of Australia's favourite fish, the barramundi -

0:29:160:29:18

apparently up to 45,000 per cage.

0:29:180:29:22

-There's one, certainly.

-There's one. There's definitely more than that!

0:29:220:29:25

Oh, I've seen two.

0:29:250:29:27

45,000?

0:29:280:29:29

-Yeah.

-Where the hell are they?

0:29:290:29:31

They're in there. When we get feeding, you'll see the fish come up.

0:29:310:29:34

MECHANICAL WHIRRING

0:29:340:29:37

He's firing the feed! I mean...

0:29:390:29:42

Oi, oi!

0:29:430:29:45

Mind the camera, sunshine!

0:29:450:29:47

LAUGHTER

0:29:470:29:48

-He's a cheeky bugger!

-Yeah, he's deliberately doing that!

0:29:480:29:51

These are targeted!

0:29:510:29:52

They minimise the impact of their farm on this spectacular corner

0:29:540:29:57

of the Indian Ocean by monitoring the amount of food pumped into the cages,

0:29:570:30:01

reducing waste and pollution.

0:30:010:30:03

So it's good for business and for the environment.

0:30:030:30:07

We need Benno in here.

0:30:070:30:09

You can see a turtle in the water Just here.

0:30:090:30:11

-Coming up? Hello!

-Keeping our ropes clean.

0:30:130:30:16

-He's nibbling off all the algae.

-One thing we don't have to worry about.

0:30:160:30:20

-That's great!

-Yeah, they love it.

0:30:200:30:22

Fish farm and environment working in harmony.

0:30:220:30:26

Ah, it's great to see.

0:30:290:30:32

But some of the locals

0:30:340:30:36

are not so welcome.

0:30:360:30:37

The saltwater crocodile, or salty, is the largest croc in the world,

0:30:390:30:44

and the most dangerous.

0:30:440:30:45

-Just here, is that one there?

-Yeah, these are small ones.

0:30:490:30:51

-Probably, maybe seven foot.

-A small one?

0:30:510:30:54

Yeah.

0:30:540:30:56

Often more than five metres long and weighing as much as a ton,

0:30:560:30:59

these crocodiles are cunning, fearless and hunt almost anything that moves,

0:30:590:31:04

including workers at the fish farm.

0:31:040:31:06

At any given point in time, you can see them sitting on the collars of the cages,

0:31:060:31:10

like, sitting on the edges.

0:31:100:31:11

About two months ago,

0:31:110:31:13

I think we had one break through a net while there was a diver in the water.

0:31:130:31:17

Needless to say, he got out of the water pretty quick!

0:31:170:31:20

Yes, that's a pretty one-sided cage fight, isn't it?

0:31:200:31:24

-Should I be standing a bit further back from the edge?

-No, I think you'd be fine.

0:31:240:31:27

What do you mean, you THINK?

0:31:270:31:29

Well, no-one else has been done yet!

0:31:290:31:31

Let's just move a little bit away.

0:31:310:31:33

It kind of gets to the point where you step off a boat

0:31:330:31:36

and you're a bit unsure of where to look.

0:31:360:31:38

They tend to pop up out of nowhere and you're like,

0:31:380:31:40

you know, "Where did you come from?"

0:31:400:31:43

Definitely stalking us, for sure.

0:31:430:31:45

Saltwater crocodiles were once hunted to near-extinction,

0:31:450:31:49

but conservation efforts

0:31:490:31:51

have led to a recovery in their numbers and around here,

0:31:510:31:54

they've become a very real threat to the workers on the fish farm.

0:31:540:31:58

So, they've called in the croc catcher.

0:32:020:32:04

-Morning. Thank you.

-Welcome to the Kimberley.

0:32:060:32:09

Thank you very much indeed. Marshall? Simon, nice to meet you.

0:32:090:32:12

How are you going, mate?

0:32:120:32:13

-Hello. Simon, nice to meet you.

-Good to meet you, mate.

0:32:130:32:15

Mark Jones and his mates have years of experience

0:32:150:32:18

working with crocodiles in the Kimberley area.

0:32:180:32:20

These are their essential supplies.

0:32:200:32:23

Just for breakfast, I imagine!

0:32:230:32:25

I'm sure you're quite happy to share, aren't you?

0:32:250:32:27

Well...

0:32:270:32:29

SIMON LAUGHS

0:32:290:32:30

In this camp, they haven't had any crocs walk into their camp...yet.

0:32:330:32:38

But certainly in the other camps around the Kimberley, they are known to come in.

0:32:380:32:43

Is their concern justified?

0:32:430:32:46

Well, there's been a lot of people killed by them

0:32:460:32:49

and they are, as we say in Australia, as cunning as a toilet rat.

0:32:490:32:53

Previously, they used to shoot the animals and indeed a licence was given here,

0:32:530:32:57

but now, they're coming to us and saying,

0:32:570:33:00

"Can you remove this animal?" and we do it in a way that saves the animal,

0:33:000:33:04

looks after the people here and both animal and human can coexist.

0:33:040:33:10

No matter how much many of us might fear them,

0:33:100:33:14

crocodiles are a vital part of the ecosystem here

0:33:140:33:17

and Mark works to control their numbers without harming them.

0:33:170:33:20

So, this is our vessel for the evening.

0:33:220:33:25

-Is it big enough?

-So, this is luxury!

0:33:250:33:28

-Flippin' heck!

-LAUGHS

0:33:280:33:31

I'd agreed to go out on a crocodile hunt at night

0:33:310:33:35

and it seemed I was going to be in the thick of the action.

0:33:350:33:38

You're right in the front, you're kneeling down,

0:33:380:33:40

I'm over the top of you with the harpoon.

0:33:400:33:42

You're near me with a weapon and I've got the light.

0:33:420:33:45

So, I'm like the tethered goat.

0:33:450:33:47

Your last line of defence, if the crocodile was to come at you,

0:33:470:33:51

is to throw the light down its mouth.

0:33:510:33:53

Brilliant. You can just stop laughing, mate, all right?

0:33:530:33:57

It might work!

0:33:570:33:59

LAUGHTER

0:33:590:34:00

Anything above six foot is a dangerous animal,

0:34:000:34:04

so yeah, we do have to have our wits about us.

0:34:040:34:06

As the sun set and we switched our cameras to night vision,

0:34:120:34:15

the mood became more serious.

0:34:150:34:18

Can I have everyone's attention, please?

0:34:180:34:20

When you find one, Simon, you must keep that spotlight on that animal's eyes.

0:34:200:34:24

If you remove it from his eyes, he'll then take flight.

0:34:240:34:28

We'll motor into the animal, heading straight into him.

0:34:280:34:31

When we come up close to the animal, we'll cut the engine and we'll glide in,

0:34:310:34:34

hit it in the back...in the neck, it doesn't hurt the animal at all.

0:34:340:34:38

I'll have the lasso ready.

0:34:380:34:39

Once we've got that on and secured, he's ours.

0:34:390:34:42

In the darkness, we began searching, hunting the hunters.

0:34:460:34:50

Good luck, everybody.

0:34:520:34:54

THEY WHISPER

0:35:050:35:07

-I don't want to fall in.

-Don't fall in!

0:35:070:35:09

-Don't fall in!

-Rule number one!

0:35:090:35:13

-There.

-Oh, yeah.

0:35:130:35:14

There it is.

0:35:140:35:16

-Shh! Shh! Straight ahead.

-Straight ahead. Straight ahead.

0:35:160:35:20

Mark and the team hunt the crocs by mesmerising them with a bright light.

0:35:200:35:24

Then the plan was for us to drift in close enough to attach a line to it

0:35:240:35:28

with a harpoon.

0:35:280:35:29

We're getting quite close now, aren't we?

0:35:290:35:33

Keep on him, Simon. Keep on him. Keep on him.

0:35:380:35:40

Keep on him.

0:35:400:35:42

Keep on him, keep on him, keep on him.

0:35:420:35:45

All right, back off, mate, if you can.

0:35:450:35:47

All right.

0:35:570:35:58

They can hear the water lapping on the edge of the boat.

0:35:580:36:01

They're bloody clever, aren't they?

0:36:010:36:03

They've been around people, so they're very cagey.

0:36:030:36:07

Let it go. Let go, let go, let go.

0:36:450:36:47

Other hand line. Get the other hand line.

0:36:470:36:49

All right.

0:36:510:36:53

-He's out front.

-Here he is.

0:36:530:36:55

Just go with it, don't pull too hard. Don't pull too hard.

0:36:550:36:58

SIGHS

0:36:580:37:00

There he is, on the surface there.

0:37:030:37:05

He doesn't seem overly concerned by the fact he's got a line in him.

0:37:050:37:08

It can't be hurting him because he's not thrashing around or anything.

0:37:080:37:12

The harpoon sits just under the tough skin on the back of the salty's neck,

0:37:120:37:16

holding it firm, but not harming it.

0:37:160:37:19

It's coming up, it's coming up, it's coming up.

0:37:190:37:22

-Right here.

-There he is, just there!

0:37:220:37:24

Whoa!

0:37:240:37:25

Now it's just a case of waiting till he gets tired.

0:37:270:37:30

There is a croc at the end of this line.

0:37:300:37:32

How big do you think he is, or she?

0:37:340:37:36

Eight to eight and a half feet, just under three metres.

0:37:360:37:41

What's the most stressful bit?

0:37:410:37:43

-This bit.

-This bit. It's the most dangerous.

0:37:430:37:46

Steady, mate. Just watch the rope with that little death roll.

0:37:500:37:55

I don't want to sound grotesque, but an animal this size,

0:37:550:37:57

if it grabbed you by the hand and it death rolled you,

0:37:570:38:00

it would quite easily roll your arm out of the shoulder socket.

0:38:000:38:03

There's a lot of power in an animal this size.

0:38:030:38:06

It's getting tired now.

0:38:070:38:09

He's gone under.

0:38:090:38:11

There we go. Here we go.

0:38:110:38:14

At the ready, there.

0:38:140:38:16

It's right in. Oh!

0:38:200:38:22

-Hear that clap of the jaws?

-I didn't just hear it, I bloody saw it.

0:38:220:38:26

Careful, careful, careful, oh!

0:38:260:38:28

Right, next rope!

0:38:280:38:30

Quick!

0:38:300:38:31

God, look at those teeth!

0:38:360:38:38

God, it's ferocious!

0:38:380:38:40

He's tying himself up, anyway. That's good.

0:38:490:38:52

-He's done it for you, hasn't he?

-Bring him up!

0:38:520:38:56

We're going to pull it in with us. We need to clear the decks.

0:38:560:39:00

Yep, deck is pretty clear.

0:39:000:39:02

-Right, guys. I'm going to bring him up and over.

-I'll hold the torch.

0:39:020:39:05

I need the cameras back just a little bit. One, two, three.

0:39:050:39:08

Up and over!

0:39:080:39:10

Right, one, two, three, go!

0:39:100:39:12

On his back!

0:39:130:39:16

Good God!

0:39:190:39:21

Put a little bit of weight on.

0:39:210:39:23

Bloody hell! You just pulled a bloody crocodile into the boat!

0:39:230:39:26

It feels like we are gnats on this creature's backside.

0:39:290:39:33

You can feel the power within it.

0:39:330:39:35

This is like touching Godzilla.

0:39:350:39:37

It's completely freaky.

0:39:370:39:40

What a beast!

0:39:400:39:41

-Good on you too, Simon.

-Thanks, mate.

0:39:410:39:43

-Pretty good job for your first time, mate!

-Thank you.

0:39:430:39:46

Mark Jones runs a renowned wildlife sanctuary down the coast

0:39:460:39:50

called the Broome Crocodile Park.

0:39:500:39:52

The croc will be transferred there, where it could live without posing a risk to humans.

0:39:520:39:56

We're going to get Simon to sex the animal.

0:39:560:39:58

-OK.

-LAUGHS

0:39:580:39:59

What we're going to do, Simon, is we're going to roll him over

0:39:590:40:02

and expose this animal's vent, or cloaca...

0:40:020:40:05

-OK. Right.

-..so we can sex it. Right.

0:40:050:40:07

If we just expose the belly there, you'll see this vent.

0:40:070:40:10

-Can you see it?

-Yeah, I see the vent.

0:40:100:40:11

OK, grab two of your fingers...

0:40:110:40:14

Oh, you're joking me.

0:40:140:40:15

..and finger it.

0:40:150:40:16

Can you feel a rod or is it just an open cavity?

0:40:160:40:19

No, I can feel something poking from the right.

0:40:190:40:22

Let me have a go.

0:40:220:40:23

Yep, that's a boy.

0:40:260:40:28

-Sorry about that, buddy.

-Yeah, erm...

0:40:280:40:30

don't hold it against us.

0:40:300:40:32

So, this croc is now going to go on a little journey to your sanctuary?

0:40:320:40:36

That's right, where he'll live and reproduce.

0:40:360:40:38

Have a happy life.

0:40:380:40:40

Thanks for letting us come out with you and see this.

0:40:400:40:42

It's been a fairly awesome experience.

0:40:420:40:45

The pleasure's been all ours.

0:40:450:40:46

-What happens now?

-We go home and we have a beer!

0:40:460:40:51

Mark Jones is much more than some modern-day "Crocodile" Dundee.

0:40:560:41:00

He's a world expert in crocodile conservation

0:41:000:41:03

and a leading light in the campaign to preserve the great wilderness that is the Kimberley.

0:41:030:41:07

Back on the mainland, Mark wanted to show me more

0:41:100:41:14

of what makes the Kimberley so extraordinary.

0:41:140:41:17

It's easy to forget the size of Australia.

0:41:170:41:19

The state of Western Australia on its own is vast.

0:41:190:41:23

If it were a country in its own right, it would be one of the ten biggest in the world.

0:41:230:41:27

It's 11 times larger than Britain.

0:41:270:41:30

I'd seen some amazing and remote places on my long journey

0:41:340:41:38

but the Kimberley has the most pristine coastline

0:41:380:41:41

in the entire Indian Ocean.

0:41:410:41:43

What a view!

0:41:550:41:57

LAUGHS

0:41:570:41:58

What a place!

0:42:010:42:03

This place is absolutely spectacular and completely pristine.

0:42:050:42:10

If you sat here all day, you'll see 200 or 300 whales come through with their calves.

0:42:120:42:16

We see manta rays regularly coming through here.

0:42:160:42:19

It's beautiful.

0:42:210:42:23

But, like many other areas of Australia,

0:42:250:42:28

the Kimberley sits on vast reserves of natural energy and mineral resources,

0:42:280:42:32

and giant multinational corporations are desperate to start digging them out.

0:42:320:42:37

What's being proposed for this stretch of coastline?

0:42:370:42:40

The big plan is to actually turn this into a major industrial plant.

0:42:400:42:45

The first thing will be a gas plant, but as the gas comes in here,

0:42:450:42:49

it can then drive the turbines of all the other industries

0:42:490:42:52

and it will grow very quickly.

0:42:520:42:54

And we know this because we've seen it in other parts of Australia.

0:42:540:42:58

600 kilometres down the road we have Port Hedland,

0:42:580:43:01

which is going to be the largest port in the world in 20 years' time,

0:43:010:43:05

bigger than Shanghai.

0:43:050:43:07

This will be bigger again.

0:43:070:43:08

Wouldn't most Australians say, "We want to be rich,

0:43:080:43:12

"we want to sell off our resources, it's our right"?

0:43:120:43:16

At what cost? China's certainly going to be better off for it,

0:43:160:43:19

India are going to be better off for it.

0:43:190:43:21

In this country, in 100 years' time, because of its short-sightedness,

0:43:210:43:24

we'll be left with a great big hole in the ground

0:43:240:43:26

and everybody scratching their heads,

0:43:260:43:28

hearing the old stories about these wilderness areas

0:43:280:43:30

and not seeing them any more.

0:43:300:43:32

This will be completely destroyed

0:43:320:43:35

and you will never, ever be able to bring it back. That's it.

0:43:350:43:39

Dozens of enormous industrial projects are now planned for the Kimberley.

0:43:410:43:45

It seems the insatiable global demand for energy and raw materials knows no limits.

0:43:450:43:51

The result here in Australia could be the ruining of a wilderness

0:43:510:43:55

of planetary importance.

0:43:550:43:56

It's not difficult to see what might lie in wait for the Kimberley.

0:44:000:44:04

A few hundred miles down the coast is the Pilbara,

0:44:040:44:08

a centre of Australia's amazing resource boom.

0:44:080:44:11

This country is making vast sums

0:44:110:44:14

from selling off its iron ore, gas and natural wealth.

0:44:140:44:17

But of course, it's a messy, destructive business, needing trains,

0:44:170:44:22

vast mines, roads, huge ships and towns.

0:44:220:44:25

These are some of the longest trains in the world.

0:44:330:44:36

This is resources being shipped out, put on ships

0:44:390:44:42

and sent off to fuel the economies of China and India

0:44:420:44:47

and provide the rest of the world with consumer goods.

0:44:470:44:52

Here in the Pilbara region, huge mines have opened up

0:44:530:44:58

and the place is being industrialised.

0:44:580:45:01

HORN HONKS

0:45:030:45:04

They've taken wilderness and they've stripped it of all of its resources,

0:45:070:45:12

and people don't want that to happen in the Kimberley as well.

0:45:120:45:16

Oh, my God!

0:45:220:45:24

Look at this!

0:45:240:45:26

Ooh!

0:45:270:45:29

The scale of this is quite something, eh?

0:45:350:45:38

This is just a tiddler compared to what they're planning in the Kimberley,

0:45:410:45:46

and the gas plant they're planning there is just one of dozens of industrial projects

0:45:460:45:52

that are being proposed for that currently pristine region.

0:45:520:45:56

Using and selling off their natural resources

0:45:590:46:02

has brought great prosperity to Australians in recent years,

0:46:020:46:07

but the environment pays a heavy price.

0:46:070:46:09

It left me wondering how we can ask poor countries around the Indian Ocean

0:46:110:46:15

to protect their wildlife and forests

0:46:150:46:17

when wealthy Australians are exploiting what they've got.

0:46:170:46:21

I was on the home straight now, with the end almost in sight.

0:46:270:46:31

I headed south towards the city of Perth

0:46:330:46:35

and the finishing point for my entire journey at Cape Leeuwin.

0:46:350:46:40

This is glorious, look at it!

0:46:420:46:44

SAT-NAV: After 600 metres, cross the roundabout, second exit, then keep left.

0:46:440:46:50

You have reached your destination.

0:46:500:46:52

Windows up, grab those sunnies and don't let the seagulls steal your chips!

0:46:520:46:56

LAUGHS

0:46:560:46:58

As I'd circled the Indian Ocean,

0:46:580:47:01

I'd been privileged to see some incredible marine wildlife,

0:47:010:47:05

from magnificent sharks to giant manta rays.

0:47:050:47:08

But for me, one creature symbolises

0:47:090:47:12

both the mystery and the majesty of life in our oceans, and finally,

0:47:120:47:17

just offshore south of Perth, I was about to get close to it.

0:47:170:47:20

There's at least half a dozen of them in the second wave!

0:47:200:47:24

They're actually coming to us, to the wave of the boat. Look at this!

0:47:280:47:33

They just cannot resist playing when a boat turns up

0:47:330:47:36

and creates a big wave behind!

0:47:360:47:39

LAUGHS

0:47:420:47:43

These wild bottlenose dolphins

0:47:450:47:47

are one of the most familiar creatures in the sea.

0:47:470:47:51

Highly intelligent and friendly, they live in groups

0:47:510:47:53

of between 6 and 60 animals, called pods.

0:47:530:47:56

We've drawn a crowd.

0:48:000:48:02

Let's go and say hello.

0:48:020:48:03

Dolphins have been closely studied in captivity and we know that, in the wild,

0:48:180:48:23

they enjoy human company.

0:48:230:48:25

But despite their willingness to approach us,

0:48:260:48:29

there's still so much we don't know about their life beneath the waves.

0:48:290:48:32

That was so exciting, I actually forgot to come up to breathe!

0:48:400:48:44

My lungs started to burst!

0:48:440:48:46

We don't fully understand even friendly dolphins

0:48:530:48:55

and we're a long way from understanding the rest of the mysterious marine environment.

0:48:550:49:00

But one thing my journey had shown me, beyond all doubt,

0:49:030:49:06

is that human impact on all our oceans is reaching a critical level.

0:49:060:49:11

Out there,

0:49:160:49:18

it's a free-for-all.

0:49:180:49:19

Nobody's really in charge and our seas are suffering from endless pollution and overfishing.

0:49:220:49:29

It's a bit like the Wild West.

0:49:290:49:31

So, before I reached the end of my epic journey,

0:49:330:49:36

I arranged to meet a world-renowned expert whose research is helping to change our understanding

0:49:360:49:41

of the Indian Ocean and our seas globally.

0:49:410:49:43

For most people, when they look at the ocean, all they see is the surface

0:49:440:49:49

and they have no idea how much lies beneath,

0:49:490:49:51

so for us, our research is really about pulling that curtain back,

0:49:510:49:55

that barrier, and allowing people to see and scientists to learn

0:49:550:50:00

about all the special things that we have.

0:50:000:50:02

-So, revealing the deep blue.

-Indeed, indeed.

0:50:020:50:05

Professor Jessica Meeuwig is the director of the Centre for Marine Futures

0:50:050:50:09

at the University of Western Australia.

0:50:090:50:12

Really looking forward to this. It's a real opportunity to peer into the depths.

0:50:120:50:16

I get excited every time we go out because you never know what you're going to see.

0:50:160:50:19

Jessica specialises in marine biodiversity and fisheries ecology.

0:50:200:50:25

The Indian Ocean is the least studied of the world's oceans

0:50:270:50:30

and also one of the most biodiverse, so it's really important that we get out there and understand it.

0:50:300:50:36

One aspect of Jessica's research is using small, waterproof cameras

0:50:380:50:42

to document life under the sea

0:50:420:50:43

in areas of the Indian Ocean we know little about.

0:50:430:50:46

We call it pulling back the blue curtain

0:50:460:50:48

because that allows us to actually see below the surface of the ocean.

0:50:480:50:51

By people being able to see beneath the surface,

0:50:510:50:54

they can get excited, they can really enjoy it,

0:50:540:50:57

they can value it, and if they value it, they'll protect it.

0:50:570:50:59

This camera system means you're able to see

0:51:010:51:03

-what is actually down there.

-Out there, and count them.

0:51:030:51:06

And because it's hard to sample fish, because they're in the ocean,

0:51:060:51:09

we actually don't have that basic information.

0:51:090:51:12

The camera's being lowered.

0:51:170:51:20

Jessica films at depths of more than 500 metres

0:51:200:51:24

to collect crucial research material.

0:51:240:51:26

Her team have already recorded more than 5,000 hours of footage.

0:51:260:51:30

This is footage from other cameras you've dropped down,

0:51:300:51:35

right on the floor of the ocean.

0:51:350:51:38

This is what gets me excited about being a scientist,

0:51:380:51:41

when I get to actually watch these things unfolding before my eyes.

0:51:410:51:44

So, it basically films on the sea bed for an hour

0:51:440:51:48

and we take the videos back to our lab

0:51:480:51:50

and we can figure out what species are out there,

0:51:500:51:53

how many of them there are and, most importantly, how big they are,

0:51:530:51:56

because one of the first signs of overfishing is when fish get smaller.

0:51:560:51:59

I was finishing my Indian Ocean journey

0:52:010:52:04

next to one of the most important areas of ocean on the planet.

0:52:040:52:07

It's now clear the sea here has greater levels of biodiversity

0:52:080:52:12

than even the Great Barrier Reef.

0:52:120:52:14

Almost every week, new species are being discovered.

0:52:140:52:17

Most of them are found nowhere else on Earth,

0:52:170:52:20

but less than 1% of the sea in this area is protected.

0:52:200:52:24

Around the planet, we're witnessing a collapse of marine life.

0:52:260:52:30

Two-thirds of the world's coral reefs are dead or at risk

0:52:300:52:34

and it's estimated up to 90% of the world's large fish have been annihilated.

0:52:340:52:39

If we don't change our behaviour, we'll be left with lifeless oceans.

0:52:390:52:43

Something that's really amazed me on this journey

0:52:430:52:45

is the almost cavalier way we are fishing the oceans to death.

0:52:450:52:52

That's how it's been described to me by several people I've met.

0:52:520:52:56

Do you think that's a fair description, and how is this happening?

0:52:560:53:00

Well, we're effectively emptying the oceans of fish.

0:53:000:53:04

We've got industrial-scale fleets

0:53:040:53:06

that have nets that are bigger than, you know, airplanes.

0:53:060:53:11

We drag these heavy metal things across the sea bed,

0:53:110:53:15

basically clear-felling everything in their way.

0:53:150:53:18

Can you imagine if we dragged something like that through a forest,

0:53:180:53:21

knocked down all the trees, took out all the birds and animals?

0:53:210:53:23

That's what we're doing to the ocean.

0:53:230:53:25

I mean, the fish have nowhere to hide.

0:53:250:53:27

We need to allow our fish stocks to recover

0:53:290:53:32

and that means implementing sanctuary zones

0:53:320:53:34

or national parks in the ocean.

0:53:340:53:37

We need some areas where the fish can be left alone to grow big, old and fat

0:53:370:53:43

and produce lots of more fish.

0:53:430:53:45

Is that one of the key solutions, then?

0:53:450:53:48

Absolutely, and Australia's actually at the forefront of this.

0:53:480:53:51

It's developing a system of national parks around the entire continent

0:53:510:53:55

and what's really critical in that is that it includes national parks

0:53:550:54:00

where you can't go fishing and you can't drill for oil and gas.

0:54:000:54:03

Protected marine parks where fishing is banned

0:54:050:54:09

ensure that fish have a place to breed.

0:54:090:54:11

And that means their numbers can recover from overfishing.

0:54:110:54:15

It's an idea that has overwhelming public support.

0:54:150:54:18

70% of West Australians want to see strong national parks in the ocean.

0:54:180:54:24

Public opinion, at least here in Australia, wants it,

0:54:240:54:27

but how do you persuade people off the...

0:54:270:54:29

desperately poor people on the coast of Mozambique,

0:54:290:54:31

or in Madagascar or off Bangladesh,

0:54:310:54:34

to accept national parks when they're struggling to survive?

0:54:340:54:38

Actually, in some countries, like the Philippines,

0:54:380:54:40

they have been willing to put aside significant areas

0:54:400:54:43

as sanctuary zones, where they don't fish,

0:54:430:54:47

and they're seeing that the fish numbers are increasing and coming back and spilling over,

0:54:470:54:51

so in poor countries,

0:54:510:54:53

we've actually seen some of the biggest successes.

0:54:530:54:55

That's quite... That's quite hopeful.

0:54:550:54:57

If they can do it, there's no excuse why Australia, Britain, America, Europe, can't as well, surely?

0:54:570:55:04

Absolutely.

0:55:040:55:05

We're increasing our understanding all the time

0:55:050:55:08

of how the marine environment works,

0:55:080:55:10

so no, I'm totally optimistic, but we do have to act now.

0:55:100:55:13

Now I hear it, the answer seems blindingly obvious.

0:55:160:55:21

We have national parks on land, of course we should have them in the sea as well.

0:55:210:55:28

They're not a silver bullet. It's not the single solution that's going to protect the seas,

0:55:290:55:35

but it is part of the solution, it is part of the answer.

0:55:350:55:39

We have got to protect life in our oceans, and national parks in the sea,

0:55:390:55:44

or marine sanctuaries, are part of the solution.

0:55:440:55:48

Here it comes!

0:55:500:55:51

Yup.

0:55:530:55:55

My journey had also convinced me

0:55:550:55:57

that we need more global co-operation to police the high seas,

0:55:570:56:01

the millions of square miles of international waters

0:56:010:56:04

that are currently being fished relentlessly.

0:56:040:56:08

The Indian Ocean is a spectacular region of our world.

0:56:120:56:15

Hundreds of millions of people rely on it to survive.

0:56:160:56:20

Preserving and protecting it is vital for the future of us all.

0:56:200:56:24

After months of travelling by land, air and sea,

0:56:360:56:40

I was finally nearing the end of my journey.

0:56:400:56:43

Cape Leeuwin is the point where Australians say the Indian Ocean ends.

0:56:450:56:49

My goodness.

0:56:510:56:53

That's the ending.

0:56:550:56:57

I've got a lump in the throat and a tear in the eye.

0:56:590:57:02

Look! "Two Oceans Meet.

0:57:150:57:17

"Cape Leeuwin marks the point where the Indian Ocean meets the Southern Ocean."

0:57:170:57:21

Indian Ocean to the right, Southern Ocean to the left.

0:57:210:57:24

This has been my most exotic and extreme adventure.

0:57:290:57:33

And it ends just down here.

0:57:360:57:37

I've gone from the horrors of the front line in Mogadishu in Somalia

0:57:410:57:46

to the glory of the Maldives and the Seychelles.

0:57:460:57:50

I've been to 16 countries.

0:57:500:57:53

This journey has really taught me there's so much more to the Indian Ocean

0:57:530:57:57

than just glorious, gorgeous holiday islands.

0:57:570:58:00

It's a vast, tantalising, historical and absolutely vital part of the planet.

0:58:010:58:07

This is it!

0:58:110:58:12

This is the end.

0:58:120:58:14

The end of my journey.

0:58:140:58:16

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