Bangladesh to Burma Tropic of Cancer


Bangladesh to Burma

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The Tropic of Cancer marks the northern border of the tropics,

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the most beautiful, brilliant, and blighted region of the world.

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I've already travelled around the equator

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and the southern border of the tropics,

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but following the Tropic of Cancer will be my toughest journey yet.

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This tropic cuts through Central America, the Caribbean,

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North Africa, India and on through Asia to finish in Hawaii.

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It's 23,000 miles across deserts, rivers and mountains.

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Along the way I encounter extraordinary people,

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simmering conflicts

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and some of the most stunning landscapes on our planet.

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This part of my trip takes me from Bangladesh and on into Burma.

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I'm travelling from a lush water-world

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through the jungles of India

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and into one of the world's most repressive states.

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'I witness the unstoppable effects of climate change...'

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Oh, my God!

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'..and I throw myself into Bangladesh's national sport.

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'The trip ends with a dangerous and covert trek

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'into a forgotten corner of Burma.'

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If you were caught by the Burmese authorities,

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what would happen to you?

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If they catch us,

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they will kill us.

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We're in the far west of Bangladesh,

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which is a very watery country,

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and one of the best ways of getting around is by boat.

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And I think this beauty over here

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is going to take us across the country.

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'Muslim Bangladesh is crisscrossed by more than 700 rivers,

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'but its main artery is the mighty Padma, known in India as the Ganges,

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'which I was planning to follow east along the Tropic of Cancer.'

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Thank you.

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Whoa.

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Oh, fantastic, look at this.

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Avoiding packed roads,

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the motorboat Chhuti offered us

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a smooth ride to the Bangladeshi capital, Dhaka.

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And here's Tanjil.

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-Hello, Tanjil.

-Hi, Simon.

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He's going to be guiding us across...

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Bangladesh,

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along with the trusty captain here,

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a reassuring presence behind the wheel.

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And if we just have a quick look out here...

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Look at the view!

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Is this typical of the landscape

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that we'll be seeing as we head towards the capital?

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Yes, absolutely the same.

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It's flat like a pancake, and this time of the year,

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it's really green and lush.

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So, um, we should get going, shouldn't we?

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-Let's start.

-Start the engines!

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TANJIL SPEAKS IN BENGALI

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Oh, look at this!

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I thought that was just for show.

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In Bangladesh, life revolves around the water.

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Up to 60% of this country floods every year.

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The remaining land is crammed

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with 160 million people,

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the seventh-largest population in the world,

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in an area smaller than England and Wales.

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As a result,

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Bangladeshis have found all sorts of ways to survive on the water.

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We hopped off the Chhuti and headed down a tributary

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to see one extraordinary traditional lifestyle that's now under threat.

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So, we're sailing down this very peaceful little river at the moment.

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Tanjil is manning the engine -

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Tanjil IS the engine -

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and we're heading to a little fishing village...

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There is the village, you can see.

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..where the fishermen have got a rather innovative method

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for catching their fish.

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There are children there to welcome us.

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Hello, small people!

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Yeah, mind the lady cleaning her pots!

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Dozens of families here in the village of Gobra

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harness some unlikely and noisy partners

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for an unusual method of fishing.

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They use a technique

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that dates back more than a thousand years

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and was once practised in Europe.

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Local villager Robin showed us his very own fisherman's friend.

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But basically, these fishermen...

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fish using otters.

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The otters have been trained

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to swim alongside Robin's fishing boat

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and chase fish into his net.

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Robin, can you tell us a little bit about your otters?

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-IN TRANSLATION:

-They're husband and wife, and they have a family.

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In a few days, they'll have more babies.

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Fishermen here are exploiting the natural instincts of otters,

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which hunt in pairs or as a family.

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These otters might be harnessed and working with humans,

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but they're still wild at heart.

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Oh! They're fast as well. Look! One's just gone.

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One of them really has got away down here.

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Can you see it?

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No. Where's the one that got away?

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It's just there. It's there.

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Robin sent in the otter's partner to lure it back.

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OTTER SQUEALS

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So one of them's saying, "Come back, don't leave me."

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After Robin finally recaptured the one that got away,

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we waited for the sun to go down.

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It's quite magical being out here on the river.

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Quite wonderful, in fact.

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The big question is,

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are we going to catch any fish?

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Oh!

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OK, so watch how Robin moves the otter around

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using his feet on the pole there.

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So basically, they've got to work the otters on both sides,

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and the otters force...

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the idea, anyway, is that the otters force the fish into the net.

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Have they got something?

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-Yeah. Small fishes.

-Yeah, a few.

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There's some tiddlers.

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There's a little one here,

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or a couple of little ones, jumping around.

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There's a crab there.

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It's not a huge amount, is it?

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And it's quite back-breaking work.

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-IN TRANSLATION:

-We used to catch more fish, but not any more.

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There are fewer fish now because of over-fishing.

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Bangladesh gains an extra two million new mouths

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to feed every year,

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which, combined with pollution and outdated farming techniques,

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is putting huge pressure on the food supply.

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Hey! Another one, yeah.

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There's nothing there, really, is it?

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Despite the otters' best efforts, it was a disappointing catch.

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-IN TRANSLATION:

-This time, we haven't been able to catch many fish.

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It's not good.

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We have to buy fish sometimes to feed our otters.

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It sounds like such a difficult, hard way to make a living.

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Can you imagine your children ever fishing like this?

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Generations of us have been catching fish like this.

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But what the future holds for my children, I don't know.

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Back on board the Chhuti, we set sail again for Dhaka.

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Following the Padma River, we skirted the Tropic of Cancer

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on our way to the capital.

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The boundary between water and land is blurry in Bangladesh.

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Almost the entire country is just a few metres

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above an already rising sea level,

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the main reason why global climate change

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threatens Bangladesh more than any other country in the world.

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One thing you really do see immediately about...

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certainly this area,

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but I know Bangladesh generally, is you can see there's no rocks

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by the edge of the river, it's just pure mud.

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And because it's mud,

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the land's not only at risk from annual floods and tropical cyclones,

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it's also constantly being eroded by the huge rivers.

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You can see the bank is getting ready to collapse.

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Hang on, what are these white bags here?

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They're trying to stop the erosion.

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You can see they're putting the bags there.

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Oh, my God, these are sand! They're using them as sandbags.

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Oh, my God! Look, they're chucking them in to the water edge there

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to try and save the land.

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We've got to stop.

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-Is there any way we can stop here?

-Yes, we can stop here.

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Look, there's another one going there,

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desperately trying to shore up the river bank.

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Look, it's falling away right now, right as we're approaching.

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This whole bank here is now really going,

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and they're working faster and faster,

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because this is their land they're going to lose.

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I can't see how they're going to save this.

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What was that?

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That's another big chunk.

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Oh, my God!

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Who here lives close to the edge?

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Who's worried that they're going to lose their home?

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-He.

-So this gentleman here,

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where does he live? Can we ask him?

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TANJIL SPEAKS BENGALI

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Just this one.

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-IN TRANSLATION:

-The river has destroyed

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all our crops and our land.

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It's taken the food from our mouths.

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As more ballast arrived for sandbags, locals told us

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that in the past fortnight,

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the river had eaten 500 yards into their village.

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In the past four years, it's taken 2,000 homes in this community alone.

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This was the devastating effects of climate change

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happening right in front of my eyes.

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Perfectly natural for there to be erosion of a riverbank by the river,

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but scientists are absolutely convinced

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that what's happening in Bangladesh

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is an increased rate of river erosion,

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partly or largely caused by an increasing melt in the Himalayas,

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in the mountains, from which this river has its source.

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-IN TRANSLATION:

-I've lost everything - my cows,

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my goats, my trees, everything.

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I've only got my home left.

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Have you noticed the rate of erosion speeding up?

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Do people talk about the fact

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that the erosion is happening faster and faster?

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It's been happening for a long time.

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But now it's getting faster and it's coming closer.

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When we want to sleep, we can't,

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because we're scared by the noise of the land falling into the river.

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It sounds like shooting. Boom! Boom!

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Scenes like this are now repeated on a daily basis across Bangladesh.

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Increased erosion makes 100,000 people homeless every year,

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turning them into environmental refugees.

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But this could be just the beginning of a climate catastrophe

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on a biblical scale.

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Even a small rise in sea levels would devastate millions here.

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We were heading in the same direction

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as many of the new environmental refugees -

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towards the capital, Dhaka.

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So we're making our final approach into the capital now, and, er, well,

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you can see, it's pretty chaotic.

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The captain needs to navigate our boat up the channel here

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and find us a place to dock.

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This is Sadarghat, Bangladesh's busiest port.

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Crowded ferries from across the country

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and tiny local commuter boats battle their way across the water.

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But look, you can really see here the boats forcing their way

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through the other boats to try and get

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their passengers off at the terminal.

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Their motors going, their engines going,

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the water churning up behind them -

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push, push, push.

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Where the hell are we going to dock our boat, then?

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We can take our boat close to another boat and we can just...

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walk through the boats.

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Oh, right, OK. So we'll attach our boat to somebody else's

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and use them as a landing platform?

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-Yes.

-OK!

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SIREN WAILS

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Our boat could only stop for a few minutes.

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We need to get off. Captain, thank you, thank you.

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Thank you very much indeed.

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Thank you. Can we come through your little cabin?

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Thank you very much!

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TANJIL SHOUTS IN BENGALI

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-From the front.

-To the front!

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SIMON LAUGHS

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Ooh!

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There's dry land ahead.

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Is there a way off there? Yes! Dry land!

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Welcome to Dhaka!

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-Look at that way. Look at that way.

-Look at it!

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Bloody hell!

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All right, now, this is proper chaos.

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The tropics are home to almost two-thirds

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of the world's population.

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And an increasing number are moving to mega cities like Dhaka.

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Hundreds of thousands arrive here every year,

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joining the 13 million people already crammed into the city.

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The global urban population

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is projected to double over the next 15 years,

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and the population of Dhaka is expected to rise

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to a staggering 25 million,

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with about half of them packed into slums.

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Oh, I suppose this is old Dhaka?

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It's quite a sight, eh?

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-It is.

-How are you?

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I'm very well, thank you. How are you?

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Oh, look. Look at this.

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This amazing art that you get on the rickshaws here

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is a constant delight.

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It's a work of art.

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It's an evocative, atmospheric city, but there's no hiding the filth

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and appalling poverty that scars most lives here.

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There's a quarter of a million children

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living on the streets of Dhaka,

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and in slum areas, many try to earn a few pence

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by sifting through piles of rotting waste.

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As we've been walking along,

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we've gathered, like the Pied Pipers,

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a small group of...

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urchins around us.

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And what they do

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is walk around, walk around the streets, collecting up fragments

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of plastic or glass bottles, any bits that they can recycle.

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Can we have a look in here? Can we see?

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TANJIL SPEAKS BENGALI

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So, look, plastic bottles in here.

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-Aluminium cans.

-Yeah.

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And then they'll sell them to a recycling shop.

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It's quite hard to see four year olds, five year olds

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working on the streets barefoot like that, isn't it?

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You live here for one week, two week, one month,

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then it will not hurt you a lot.

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It's happening.

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It's there.

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As well as the thousands picking through rubbish,

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there's a hidden army of young labourers

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who work behind closed doors.

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This is it here?

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HUMMING

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God, can you hear the furnace going?

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There's even a child-sized entrance.

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'Tanjil had brought me to a glass recycling factory

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'where they make bottles for export to South Korea.'

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Good God!

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This is Jehangir.

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Jehangir. Hello, Jehangir.

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Very nice to meet you.

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Ten-year-old Jehangir works a full shift here every day

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for the equivalent of 30 pence -

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enough to buy his family a small bag of rice.

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Why did you put that one in there, Jehangir?

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TANJIL SPEAKS IN BENGALI

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-IN TRANSLATION:

-It's no good. It's broken.

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He's basically quality control, isn't he?

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It was more than 40 degrees centigrade outside,

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and the heat standing here by the furnace was almost unbearable.

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The fumes coming from the furnace, they're really choking.

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And we're just here for a few minutes.

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So he's taking us up to see

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where he sleeps with his mum and his sister.

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And can you see, his sister is barefoot...in a glass factory?

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That's it. It's a bit rickety, isn't it?

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So, Jehangir, where do you sleep?

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-This is his bed.

-Just right here?

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And is it just your family here, or are there more people who live here?

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-IN TRANSLATION:

-Many of us live here, 10 or 12 people.

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There are quarrels.

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People sometimes eat other people's food, and this causes arguments.

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Do you find it hard, working in the factory?

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Yes.

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If I had a home, then I wouldn't have needed to work.

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I could have gone to school.

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My mum would have worked.

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Why did Mum want you to come and live here?

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Why did Mum want you to come to the glass factory?

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Because of hunger.

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Factory owners like to employ children, because they're cheap,

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they have nimble fingers and they complain less than adults.

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So, shift change, new operator.

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This operator - can you show us your arm?

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It seems obvious that these children should be stopped from working.

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But the older labourers wanted me to understand what can happen

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when children here are prevented from earning a living.

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-IN TRANSLATION:

-You see, there are foreigners who come here

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and they stop the children from working.

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-IN TRANSLATION:

-If we throw the children out of work,

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what are they going to live on?

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If they don't work, they'll die of hunger,

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so they go out begging or stealing.

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They'll do anything if they're hungry.

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Hunger drives them to do many things.

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These men all started working between the ages of 9 and 11.

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Child labour is a harsh fact of life in Bangladesh.

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Nearly five million children here earn vital income for their families

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or themselves.

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But Jehangir's boss has been persuaded to give him

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a few hours off each day to visit a special centre

0:23:500:23:53

for working children run by UNICEF, the United Nations Children's Fund.

0:23:530:23:59

This is the centre.

0:23:590:24:00

Oh, my good God!

0:24:000:24:03

Oh, my goodness. Hello!

0:24:040:24:08

-Salaam alaikum.

-CHILDREN:

-Salaam alaikum.

0:24:080:24:12

Jehangir, you've got a lot of friends here.

0:24:140:24:17

-IN TRANSLATION:

-This is my friend.

0:24:190:24:21

The centre gives working boys

0:24:290:24:31

a free lunch, a shower and space to learn and have fun.

0:24:310:24:36

Most of all, it gives them the chance simply to be children.

0:24:390:24:44

There's a few good shots here.

0:24:440:24:47

They've all had a lot of practice, haven't they?

0:24:470:24:51

Jehangir, tell us, what do you like about coming to the centre?

0:24:510:24:57

-IN TRANSLATION:

-I like to play the carrom board.

0:24:570:24:59

This is your favourite thing about the centre, playing this game?

0:24:590:25:05

What about your friends?

0:25:050:25:07

Yes, my friends are here with me, and I like that too.

0:25:090:25:14

Western campaigners and fashion firms have forced

0:25:160:25:20

Bangladeshi clothing factories to stop employing child labour,

0:25:200:25:24

but this has meant many families going hungry,

0:25:240:25:27

and many children have taken riskier jobs.

0:25:270:25:30

Farzana Ahmed from UNICEF says they've been forced

0:25:300:25:33

to accept child labour as a necessary evil,

0:25:330:25:35

but in thousands of centres across the country,

0:25:350:25:38

UNICEF is now teaching children skills

0:25:380:25:41

to break the cycle of poverty.

0:25:410:25:43

Some people watching this might be surprised that you're not working

0:25:430:25:47

to try and close down the factories where the children are working.

0:25:470:25:52

What would you say in response to that?

0:25:520:25:55

We really cannot say, "OK, stop child labour right at this moment,"

0:25:550:26:00

because the reality is that many of the families

0:26:000:26:04

are really dependent on the earning of the children,

0:26:040:26:07

and if they can have a safe working environment

0:26:070:26:11

and if they have scope of going to school,

0:26:110:26:14

some free time for recreation,

0:26:140:26:17

they're having a scope to have a different kind of life.

0:26:170:26:20

I can't tell you how wonderful it is to see these boys having fun.

0:26:280:26:33

BOY: Hello! How are you?

0:26:350:26:38

Hello, hello, hello, hello!

0:26:420:26:45

Day-to-day life here is tough, but Bangladeshis have a playful spirit

0:26:510:26:57

and, given a chance, they know how to have fun...

0:26:570:27:01

as their national sport shows.

0:27:010:27:03

'In kabaddi, players have to go into the other team's half

0:27:090:27:13

'and keep holding their breath while they try to tag someone out

0:27:130:27:17

'without being wrestled to the ground.

0:27:170:27:19

'To prove they're not breathing in, they repeat the word "kabaddi".'

0:27:220:27:25

MAN: Kabaddi kabaddi kabaddi kabaddi kabaddi kabaddi kabaddi.

0:27:260:27:30

-Is he holding his breath all this time?

-Yes.

0:27:310:27:34

Ooh!

0:27:340:27:36

Despite the knockabout nature of the game,

0:27:360:27:39

someone thought it would be a good idea if Tanjil and I joined in.

0:27:390:27:43

Why did we agree to this?!

0:27:430:27:45

TANJIL SPEAKS BENGALI

0:27:460:27:48

Take a deep breath.

0:27:530:27:55

Kabaddi, kabaddi, kabaddi...

0:28:020:28:04

Oh, it didn't last very long!

0:28:150:28:17

'I'm not sure I was following the rules, or even what they were,

0:28:190:28:23

'but that didn't get in the way of the fun.'

0:28:230:28:25

Go on, Tanjil!

0:28:330:28:35

You've got him, Tanjil, you've got him!

0:28:350:28:36

You've got him!

0:28:360:28:38

All right, come to Daddy!

0:28:430:28:46

MAN: Too light for him.

0:28:460:28:48

I got one!

0:28:580:29:00

Unbelievable!

0:29:000:29:03

CHEERING

0:29:030:29:06

TANJIL: Yeah, you played good, you played good.

0:29:060:29:09

Your movement and your...everything was kind of perfect, as a beginner.

0:29:090:29:14

-As a beginner?

-Mm-hm.

0:29:140:29:15

I have suffered several injuries.

0:29:150:29:18

Look at this, look at the colour of this!

0:29:180:29:22

Possible broken ribs, but, hey, what the hell?

0:29:220:29:26

It was worth it!

0:29:260:29:27

So we've left Dhaka behind and we're now driving across Bangladesh

0:29:400:29:45

and we're heading towards India.

0:29:450:29:48

Bangladesh is almost completely surrounded by India,

0:29:530:29:56

and this will be my second time in the giant neighbour on this journey.

0:29:560:30:00

I was heading for two of India's most remote states,

0:30:000:30:03

Tripura and Mizoram, bang on the Tropic of Cancer.

0:30:030:30:06

The only border crossing in this area is way off the beaten track.

0:30:100:30:14

Oh, my God, where the hell are we?

0:30:190:30:22

Can we just ask, Tanjil?

0:30:230:30:26

TANJIL SPEAKS BENGALI

0:30:260:30:28

MAN SPEAKS BENGALI

0:30:280:30:33

Is this the customs?

0:30:410:30:43

-Here?!

-Yes, as I said.

0:30:430:30:47

-This is the customs point?

-Yeah.

0:30:470:30:49

Finally, we'd made it to the border.

0:30:510:30:54

We were leaving a remote corner of Bangladesh

0:30:540:30:57

and trying to enter a remote corner of India.

0:30:570:30:59

Everything OK?

0:31:040:31:06

'The officials told us no foreigners had crossed here in months.'

0:31:120:31:16

We have a lot of permits.

0:31:180:31:20

Hopefully, this will enable us to cross the border

0:31:220:31:25

without requiring us to pay a hefty tax.

0:31:250:31:28

That's me.

0:31:300:31:32

The permits seemed to do the trick.

0:31:320:31:35

-We're free to go?

-Thank you.

0:31:360:31:37

Thank you! Thank you, sir.

0:31:370:31:41

BUGLE PLAYS

0:31:410:31:45

We were just in time, as the border was being closed for the night.

0:31:480:31:52

Well, that's the Bangladeshi flag lowered.

0:31:580:32:01

It's the end of our journey across Bangladesh.

0:32:010:32:06

I've loved every minute of it.

0:32:060:32:07

It's packed and poor,

0:32:070:32:10

but it's a beautiful, beautiful country, and I'm really sorry to go.

0:32:100:32:15

ORDER SHOUTED

0:32:150:32:17

Farewell, mate.

0:32:230:32:24

Thank you very much indeed.

0:32:240:32:27

-Thank you, sir.

-Bye-bye, mate.

0:32:270:32:28

-I feel quite emotional.

-Yes, I am also feeling...

0:32:280:32:31

-Yeah. All right.

-We had a good time.

0:32:310:32:33

-We had a very good time.

-We'll remember that.

0:32:330:32:34

-I'll see you again.

-Yeah.

0:32:340:32:36

We'd left the flat, water-world landscape of Bangladesh

0:32:440:32:47

and immediately began climbing into the Indian hill state of Tripura.

0:32:470:32:52

We're up in the hills now and we're in a place that feels really exotic.

0:33:040:33:10

You get a sense here that this is where India and Asia really meet.

0:33:100:33:15

In this part of the country,

0:33:190:33:21

traditional hill tribes mix with migrants from the rest of India.

0:33:210:33:26

As in many parts of the tropics, the growing population here

0:33:260:33:29

has put a huge strain on Tripura's ancient forests,

0:33:290:33:33

which are being lost to homes and small farms.

0:33:330:33:36

And as the trees disappear,

0:33:360:33:38

so does the exceptional wildlife that relies on them.

0:33:380:33:41

(We're on a very narrow forest trail

0:33:480:33:51

(and we're looking for some very special little monkeys.)

0:33:510:33:56

(I can see them up ahead.

0:34:090:34:11

(Yes! I just saw a tail.

0:34:130:34:15

(We're just underneath one now.)

0:34:190:34:22

These monkeys are spectacled langurs.

0:34:240:34:27

They're now hard enough to find even here

0:34:270:34:30

in the Sepahijala Wildlife Reserve.

0:34:300:34:32

Across the state, their numbers are down to just 2,000.

0:34:320:34:35

(It's such a treat to see these creatures.

0:34:370:34:40

(They're so incredibly rare now and endangered.)

0:34:400:34:44

These rich and diverse forests used to dominate

0:34:460:34:49

this part of the tropics,

0:34:490:34:51

but deforestation and road building

0:34:510:34:54

has divided them into isolated pockets.

0:34:540:34:56

Many patches can't sustain viable animal communities.

0:34:560:35:00

It's one of the great problems for wildlife throughout the tropics.

0:35:000:35:05

There are other native animals in the reserve's zoo.

0:35:050:35:09

As the human population of this area grows,

0:35:090:35:11

it seems the only realistic chance for the survival

0:35:110:35:14

of rare wildlife is now in a cage.

0:35:140:35:18

Absolutely magnificent creature.

0:35:180:35:22

These are two extremely rare cloud leopards.

0:35:230:35:28

And again, what they symbolise, really, is the fact

0:35:280:35:32

that their habitat has - and is - being completely destroyed.

0:35:320:35:37

Depresses the hell out of me.

0:35:430:35:45

The next Indian state east along the Tropic of Cancer is Mizoram.

0:35:510:35:55

The roads in this region are frequently blocked by landslides,

0:35:550:35:59

so we hopped on a plane to the state capital, Aizawl.

0:35:590:36:03

Mizoram is on the very far east of India,

0:36:140:36:16

and it feels quite cut off from the rest of the country.

0:36:160:36:20

In fact, people here talk about the rest of India as being the mainland.

0:36:200:36:24

This border area is home to dozens of different ethnic groups,

0:36:260:36:29

many of them Christian.

0:36:290:36:31

For me, it was a stop on my way east into a forbidden land.

0:36:310:36:35

So now...

0:36:370:36:39

the most difficult part of our journey begins.

0:36:390:36:42

I headed towards the next country along the Tropic, Burma.

0:36:450:36:49

It's a place with a terrible reputation for human rights abuses,

0:36:510:36:54

where democracy activists disappear,

0:36:540:36:57

and where much of the population

0:36:570:36:59

lives in fear of the military rulers.

0:36:590:37:02

It took us two days of hard driving to reach the border.

0:37:020:37:05

'Burma's military dictatorship, which calls the country Myanmar,

0:37:100:37:13

'has banned the BBC from entering officially,

0:37:130:37:16

'so we embarked on our own little covert mission.

0:37:160:37:20

'An exiled Burmese activist from the Chin ethnic group, Cheery Zahau,

0:37:200:37:25

'had bravely offered to show me what life is like

0:37:250:37:28

'under perhaps the most repressive regime in the entire tropics.

0:37:280:37:31

'We'd decided to try to sneak over the border into her home region

0:37:330:37:37

'of Chin State and then trek to a remote tribal village.'

0:37:370:37:41

My God, look at that!

0:37:430:37:46

-Do you see the little village there?

-Right, yes.

0:37:480:37:52

-That's Chin State.

-So that's in Burma?

0:37:520:37:54

CHEERY: Yeah, that's in Burma.

0:37:540:37:56

The Burmese troops might be there, cos they love that village, somehow.

0:37:560:38:01

So we're not going to that village.

0:38:010:38:03

Whenever the troops are there, it involves forced labour.

0:38:030:38:08

Are we putting ourselves in danger by doing this?

0:38:080:38:11

Yes. It's always dangerous when you go to Chin State,

0:38:110:38:14

when you go to Burma.

0:38:140:38:15

You don't know what will happen, really.

0:38:150:38:18

Um, yeah.

0:38:180:38:21

I mean, are you putting yourself

0:38:210:38:23

in even more danger than us by going back there?

0:38:230:38:26

Because you fled Burma when you were much younger.

0:38:260:38:31

Yeah. They...they don't want me to be there.

0:38:310:38:34

They put me in the wanted list in 2007, but...

0:38:340:38:41

You're actually on...

0:38:410:38:43

the Burmese military wanted list, are you? I didn't know that.

0:38:430:38:47

Yeah. They said

0:38:470:38:48

that I am...

0:38:480:38:51

I am being empowered by the Western rich nations

0:38:510:38:56

and now I try to disunite the Union of Myanmar.

0:38:560:39:00

Which potentially puts your...

0:39:000:39:03

your life at risk.

0:39:030:39:05

Yeah.

0:39:050:39:06

Because if we don't speak up, if we don't tell the stories

0:39:060:39:11

of the people under this repressive military regime,

0:39:110:39:15

then no-one will know what's happening.

0:39:150:39:18

And if they don't know, they will not do anything.

0:39:180:39:21

It wasn't just the Burmese military causing us concern.

0:39:210:39:25

India's developing a controversial trade project with Burma

0:39:250:39:29

in this area, and all of India's borders are carefully monitored.

0:39:290:39:32

We had to move quickly.

0:39:320:39:34

Well, we've had all manner of terrifying stories and rumours

0:39:340:39:39

about what lies in wait for us - the Indian army, Indian border security,

0:39:390:39:45

Indian intelligence, and on the other side, the Burmese army.

0:39:450:39:51

We're still going to go ahead. We think it's OK. Fingers crossed.

0:39:510:39:54

'We wanted to get to the river that forms the border

0:40:120:40:15

'between India and Burma before nightfall.

0:40:150:40:17

'The steep track down is used mainly by local traders on foot.

0:40:180:40:22

'Travelling by vehicle was hard going.'

0:40:220:40:24

We met Burmese farmers coming the other way,

0:40:420:40:45

making a risky journey into India

0:40:450:40:47

to try to earn some money by selling their cattle.

0:40:470:40:50

Have you seen any Burmese soldiers?

0:40:500:40:52

THEY SPEAK IN LOCAL DIALECT

0:40:520:40:56

Well, that's a relief. OK.

0:40:570:40:59

Travel safe.

0:40:590:41:01

THEY SPEAK IN LOCAL DIALECT

0:41:010:41:03

So the river is now just ahead of us.

0:41:140:41:18

I think we've finally made it. I'll tell you what, it's pretty wide.

0:41:180:41:24

'We were now just a stone's throw from Burma

0:41:270:41:31

'and we bedded down for the night.'

0:41:310:41:32

I can't quite believe we're here.

0:41:370:41:40

We're in an incredibly remote part of India,

0:41:400:41:44

in an area where very few Westerners have been to before.

0:41:440:41:48

But that's the whole point of following the Tropic of Cancer

0:41:480:41:52

around the world.

0:41:520:41:53

It takes us to off-the-beaten-track places such as this.

0:41:530:41:58

We planned to swim across the river

0:42:030:42:06

and then haul our kit over using ropes.

0:42:060:42:09

On the Burmese side, men from an ethnic Chin village

0:42:090:42:13

were waiting for us.

0:42:130:42:14

Oh, my God - he's in the water!

0:42:180:42:21

'And then, for some reason, one of them jumped into the water

0:42:210:42:24

'and swam frantically to get over to our side.'

0:42:240:42:27

They saw some people hiding, some troops hiding up there.

0:42:300:42:34

Sorry, Cheery,

0:42:340:42:36

just trying to get my head round this. What are you saying?

0:42:360:42:39

You're saying that Burmese troops are hiding just round the corner?

0:42:390:42:44

Yeah. They just saw now.

0:42:440:42:47

God, I feel sick.

0:42:470:42:48

I don't know what to say, really.

0:42:520:42:54

I'm just a bit shocked.

0:42:540:42:57

'Suddenly, the soldiers appeared.

0:42:570:42:59

'It looked like Burmese troops had been waiting for us,

0:43:030:43:06

'and we'd just had the luckiest escape of our lives.'

0:43:060:43:09

I don't know.

0:43:100:43:12

But the soldiers weren't interested in us or the villagers.

0:43:150:43:19

It turned out to be a bizarre case of mistaken identity.

0:43:190:43:22

It was a small patrol of rebel forces.

0:43:220:43:26

So who are the soldiers?

0:43:260:43:29

The Chin National Army.

0:43:290:43:31

Insurgency groups fighting against Burmese regime.

0:43:310:43:35

So, crucially, they're your friends?

0:43:350:43:38

-Yeah.

-OK.

0:43:380:43:41

So no Burmese troops for now.

0:43:430:43:45

But there was still the river to deal with.

0:43:450:43:48

We discovered the villagers had their own way of crossing.

0:43:480:43:52

So it looks like we're going to be taking the death slide

0:43:570:44:00

across the river.

0:44:000:44:01

I'm quite scared of this.

0:44:030:44:05

Cheery, I think we've got other things to worry about

0:44:050:44:07

than the bloody death slide, OK?

0:44:070:44:09

Here goes.

0:44:110:44:13

-Bloody hell!

-Oh...

0:44:160:44:19

Oh...

0:44:190:44:21

-OK, well, here goes, off we go to Burma.

-Are you ready?

0:44:210:44:25

Yeah. As I'll ever be.

0:44:250:44:27

Bloody hell!

0:44:380:44:40

Lalamor. Nadamor! Nadamor!

0:44:480:44:52

We've arrived.

0:45:000:45:02

We've travelled from the world's largest democracy

0:45:020:45:05

on that side of the river

0:45:050:45:07

to one of the most repressive countries in the world on this side.

0:45:070:45:11

All right, we've got a long walk.

0:45:130:45:16

Let's get going.

0:45:160:45:18

There are no roads or infrastructure of any sort in this area of Burma.

0:45:250:45:29

A long trek over the hills was the only way to get to the village.

0:45:290:45:33

My God, look at this place!

0:45:350:45:37

We really are in Burma.

0:45:370:45:40

'Every step took us further into what felt very much like

0:45:450:45:48

'hostile territory.

0:45:480:45:50

'In this area, there are more than 50 Burmese army bases

0:45:500:45:54

'and thousands of Burmese troops.'

0:45:540:45:56

How does it feel to be back here, Cheery?

0:46:000:46:03

A bit fearful.

0:46:030:46:05

-Fearful?

-Yeah.

0:46:050:46:07

The Burmese troops...

0:46:070:46:10

are not so far from here.

0:46:100:46:12

That's why the villagers are always...

0:46:120:46:17

..be careful and scared of the Burmese troops.

0:46:180:46:22

Whenever they are there, it involves forced labour, extortion,

0:46:220:46:29

sometimes rape against women,

0:46:290:46:32

and child labourers.

0:46:320:46:34

The Burmese military really are...

0:46:340:46:38

an occupying force in Chin State?

0:46:380:46:41

Yeah. Chin State and all over Burma.

0:46:410:46:46

'American group Human Rights Watch

0:46:470:46:49

'recently reported that Burmese soldiers

0:46:490:46:52

'are using torture, arbitrary arrest and killings

0:46:520:46:56

'as part of a campaign to suppress the Chin people,

0:46:560:46:58

'who are largely Christian

0:46:580:47:00

'and number more than one-and-a-half million in Burma.'

0:47:000:47:03

Look at this. There's huts. Huts.

0:47:050:47:08

I can hear children screaming, and some of them see us.

0:47:100:47:14

Oh, my goodness!

0:47:140:47:17

We've arrived!

0:47:170:47:19

We've made it!

0:47:190:47:22

CHEERY: Nadamo.

0:47:220:47:23

-Nadamo.

-Nadamo.

0:47:230:47:26

'The entire village came out to meet us.'

0:47:270:47:30

Nadamo.

0:47:300:47:32

Nadamo.

0:47:320:47:33

Nadamo.

0:47:360:47:37

Nadamo.

0:47:370:47:39

Nadamo.

0:47:410:47:43

Oh, my goodness. Everybody!

0:47:430:47:45

-Nadamo.

-Nadamo.

0:47:450:47:48

Got tears welling up inside me.

0:47:480:47:51

It is a huge privilege to be here.

0:47:510:47:55

These hill people struggle to scrape an existence

0:47:550:47:58

on what the land provides, living in simple wooden huts

0:47:580:48:01

and with little contact with the outside world.

0:48:010:48:04

We're very, very, very happy to be here. Thank you for allowing us

0:48:050:48:09

to come and visit your village. We're hugely grateful.

0:48:090:48:13

He doesn't know what it is.

0:48:190:48:22

Has he seen white people, foreigners, in the village before?

0:48:220:48:27

It's what you meant when you said...

0:48:340:48:37

forgotten people in a forgotten land.

0:48:370:48:40

Yes, absolutely. No-one reach here, and nobody knows they exist here.

0:48:400:48:46

'One of the reasons we'd come to this particular village

0:48:540:48:57

'was because we'd heard it had other visitors as well,

0:48:570:49:00

'a humanitarian group called the Free Burma Rangers.'

0:49:000:49:04

-Simon. Hello.

-Jacob.

0:49:110:49:13

-Jacob?

-Yes.

0:49:130:49:14

-Nice to meet you, Jacob. Simon.

-Joshua.

0:49:140:49:16

Joshua. Simon. Very nice to meet you.

0:49:160:49:18

What are the Free Burma Rangers and why are you doing this?

0:49:180:49:23

-IN TRANSLATION:

-Our team comes here to help our people

0:49:230:49:27

in any way we can, by bringing medical aid, for example.

0:49:270:49:31

In our land, there are many ill people

0:49:340:49:37

because the government deliberately denies them medical help.

0:49:370:49:40

When was the last time a Burmese government nurse or doctor

0:49:430:49:48

came to the village?

0:49:480:49:50

They never received.

0:49:500:49:53

-IN TRANSLATION:

-Never. I've never seen them come here,

0:49:530:49:58

not once in ten years.

0:49:580:49:59

So this community has been completely abandoned

0:49:590:50:03

by the Burmese state?

0:50:030:50:04

Yeah. That's true.

0:50:040:50:08

The Rangers are a Christian volunteer group

0:50:080:50:13

operating across Burma.

0:50:130:50:15

Their small teams are given training and a medical kit

0:50:150:50:18

as well as a camera to document human rights abuses.

0:50:180:50:21

They operate covertly behind the lines and at enormous risk.

0:50:210:50:26

If you were caught by the Burmese authorities doing this,

0:50:290:50:33

what would happen to you?

0:50:330:50:35

If they catch us, they will kill us.

0:50:350:50:40

-Is that really possible?

-Yes. It's possible.

0:50:400:50:44

CHEERY: All what the Burmese regime wants us to do is to surrender,

0:50:490:50:54

but instead of surrendering, we're trying to help ourself,

0:50:540:50:58

we're trying to stand up so there's a ray of hope we can build.

0:50:580:51:03

We were told it had been two weeks

0:51:060:51:08

since troops had last been to the village

0:51:080:51:11

and they were due another visit.

0:51:110:51:13

We didn't have much time.

0:51:130:51:15

If locals were caught hiding us, they could face execution.

0:51:150:51:18

At a secret location nearby, we met Chin elders who wanted to speak out.

0:51:180:51:22

In your encounters with Burmese soldiers, can you describe to us

0:51:220:51:29

how they behave towards you, your village...?

0:51:290:51:32

SPEAKS IN DIALECT

0:51:320:51:37

-IN TRANSLATION:

-If they get angry, they slap us and shout at us.

0:51:370:51:41

They tell us off

0:51:420:51:45

and they threaten us.

0:51:450:51:46

Then, whatever they want, like rice or chickens,

0:51:480:51:53

they just take it.

0:51:530:51:55

One afternoon, they asked us for money.

0:51:570:52:00

We didn't give it to them, so they beat me up three times.

0:52:020:52:06

Does it feel as though they represent your government

0:52:110:52:14

or they represent an enemy government?

0:52:140:52:17

I don't see them as our government.

0:52:200:52:22

If the smallest people were hungry,

0:52:240:52:26

then a good government would feed them.

0:52:260:52:28

A good government would help those who are in trouble.

0:52:280:52:32

But this government is totally the opposite.

0:52:330:52:36

Instead, they take whatever they want from what we have.

0:52:360:52:40

I've heard a lot about Burma over the years,

0:52:400:52:43

but it's not really until you're here,

0:52:430:52:46

experiencing some small degree of the fear

0:52:460:52:50

that these people experience on a daily basis,

0:52:500:52:54

that you really understand what it is like

0:52:540:52:57

to live under a totalitarian, despotic,

0:52:570:53:00

evil regime like the one that is in power in this country.

0:53:000:53:04

CHEERY: Yeah.

0:53:040:53:07

-It sounds...

-DOG BARKS

0:53:070:53:09

'Then suddenly, a messenger arrived with news.

0:53:110:53:14

'A heavily armed Burmese patrol had appeared in the next village,

0:53:140:53:18

'just a short march away.

0:53:180:53:20

'We were all in grave danger.

0:53:200:53:22

'We'd travelled for days to get here,

0:53:460:53:49

'but now the threat to all of us,

0:53:490:53:51

'especially Cheery and the villagers, was becoming extreme.

0:53:510:53:54

'I felt we had to leave, but it needed to be a team decision.'

0:53:540:53:58

What do you think we should do?

0:53:580:54:00

I think our luck so far has been... has been good.

0:54:020:54:06

You know, we've made it here.

0:54:060:54:08

I think we probably weren't sure that we were gonna make it this far.

0:54:080:54:12

I think we should probably bank what we've got

0:54:120:54:15

and stop taking chances now.

0:54:150:54:17

What do you think?

0:54:170:54:19

I think we should go back.

0:54:200:54:22

Oh, my God.

0:54:280:54:30

'Our only option was a risky, night-time dash back to the border.

0:54:300:54:36

'We trekked through the darkness,

0:54:360:54:39

'constantly aware that Burmese troops could be pursuing us

0:54:390:54:42

'or lying in wait ahead of us.'

0:54:420:54:44

It's one thing to cross a river like this in daylight,

0:54:450:54:50

completely different crossing it at night.

0:54:500:54:53

(We're just a few minutes from the border between Burma and India

0:55:100:55:14

(and we've just sent one of our village guides ahead of us

0:55:140:55:18

(to try and check if there's any Burmese military down by the river.)

0:55:180:55:25

'Then we heard voices.'

0:55:260:55:28

VOICES IN DISTANCE (Some people are coming.)

0:55:280:55:30

(Turn your light out.)

0:55:300:55:32

VOICES IN DISTANCE

0:55:360:55:38

Ah, that's our guys.

0:55:380:55:40

Bloody hell!

0:55:400:55:42

I thought we were screwed then.

0:55:420:55:44

We've made it...

0:55:510:55:53

at least to the border.

0:55:530:55:55

But there is somebody over there.

0:55:550:55:57

I think if we can try and signal to them, we might be able to get back.

0:55:570:56:00

'Luckily, the locals who'd built the zip wire

0:56:050:56:08

'had come to the river at 4am to help with our escape.'

0:56:080:56:12

Hello!

0:56:150:56:17

OK.

0:56:310:56:33

India, here we come.

0:56:330:56:35

We're back in India! We've made it!

0:56:440:56:47

-Welcome back to India.

-CHEERY: Thank you.

0:56:540:56:57

-Welcome back to India too.

-And thank you for taking us.

0:56:570:57:00

Thanks for coming.

0:57:000:57:02

And now you experience...very different life in Burma, isn't it?

0:57:020:57:09

It's an incredibly different life, yeah.

0:57:090:57:13

I mean, it's a totally... it's a totally different world.

0:57:130:57:16

I'd only had a brief glimpse of life under the Burmese regime,

0:57:230:57:27

but it was one of the most unsettling experiences

0:57:270:57:29

of my travels in the tropics.

0:57:290:57:31

'The Chins are one of several ethnic groups numbering millions of people

0:57:340:57:38

'that suffer horrific abuses in Burma.

0:57:380:57:41

'They live in a remote area of the tropics,

0:57:410:57:44

'cut off from the rest of the planet,

0:57:440:57:46

'but I can only hope the world doesn't forget about their plight,

0:57:460:57:50

'leaving them at the mercy of the Burmese military.'

0:57:500:57:53

It's just a few hours since we crossed back,

0:57:550:57:58

but this is the end of this part of my journey,

0:57:580:58:02

and I can see the end of the entire journey in sight now.

0:58:020:58:05

Just a few more countries to go.

0:58:050:58:07

On the next leg, the final leg, I'll be travelling across Asia

0:58:070:58:12

and ending my journey, my entire journey

0:58:120:58:15

around the Tropic of Cancer, in Hawaii.

0:58:150:58:18

'I float down the mighty Mekong River in Laos,

0:58:180:58:21

'I follow the Ho Chi Minh golf trail in Vietnam...

0:58:210:58:25

'..uncover shocking cruelty to animals...'

0:58:270:58:29

Unbelievable! Look at this.

0:58:290:58:31

'..and I end my journey around the world

0:58:310:58:35

'on the glorious island of Hawaii,

0:58:350:58:37

'where I uncover a dirty secret.'

0:58:370:58:39

Email [email protected]

0:59:040:59:07

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