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I'm on a journey around Turkey... | 0:00:04 | 0:00:07 | |
HE CHEERS | 0:00:07 | 0:00:09 | |
..a land of beauty and extremes... | 0:00:09 | 0:00:11 | |
This is terrifying and awesome all at the same time. | 0:00:14 | 0:00:17 | |
Look at the size of that! | 0:00:19 | 0:00:21 | |
..a nation torn by conflict and division... | 0:00:23 | 0:00:26 | |
It goes on and on. | 0:00:28 | 0:00:29 | |
Look at this over here. | 0:00:29 | 0:00:32 | |
The war is not something distant at this point. | 0:00:32 | 0:00:35 | |
..with an increasingly authoritarian regime. | 0:00:36 | 0:00:40 | |
Just to my left, there's a protest developing. | 0:00:40 | 0:00:43 | |
..crushing opposition at home and abroad... | 0:00:43 | 0:00:47 | |
Unbelievable. "BBC, English terror agency." | 0:00:47 | 0:00:51 | |
..Turkey is at the very heart of global events. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:55 | |
THEY CHEER | 0:00:55 | 0:00:56 | |
-Assalaamu Alaikum. -Assalaamu Alaikum. | 0:00:56 | 0:00:58 | |
On this first leg of my journey, I'll be visiting Istanbul, | 0:01:08 | 0:01:13 | |
before heading to the turquoise coast of the Aegean Sea | 0:01:13 | 0:01:17 | |
and on to the border with Syria. | 0:01:17 | 0:01:20 | |
I meet the billionaire | 0:01:22 | 0:01:23 | |
cashing in on Turkey's economic transformation... | 0:01:23 | 0:01:26 | |
..Syrian families struggling to carve out a new life... | 0:01:30 | 0:01:34 | |
Family, family, family. | 0:01:34 | 0:01:36 | |
..in the country now staking a claim to be a beacon | 0:01:37 | 0:01:40 | |
for the entire Islamic world. | 0:01:40 | 0:01:42 | |
I'm on a very windy ferry, | 0:02:06 | 0:02:08 | |
approaching what's often called the European side of Turkey. | 0:02:08 | 0:02:13 | |
In that direction is Greece and the European Union, | 0:02:13 | 0:02:16 | |
in that direction is the Middle East. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:18 | |
It's the boundary between Europe and Asia. | 0:02:18 | 0:02:21 | |
I landed on the Gallipoli Peninsula, on the European side of Turkey. | 0:02:23 | 0:02:28 | |
And so the journey begins. | 0:02:28 | 0:02:30 | |
Look at this. Vineyards. | 0:02:39 | 0:02:41 | |
Wine production isn't something I'd expect to find in an overwhelmingly | 0:02:44 | 0:02:48 | |
Muslim country. Most Muslims believe Islam forbids alcohol. | 0:02:48 | 0:02:52 | |
Some experts think Turkey is the birthplace of winemaking. | 0:02:55 | 0:02:59 | |
Certainly it's been produced here in the region for thousands of years, | 0:02:59 | 0:03:03 | |
but recently, if you can forgive the pun, there's been a bit of a hiccup. | 0:03:03 | 0:03:06 | |
-Selim? Merhaba. -Merhaba. How are you? -I'm very well. | 0:03:10 | 0:03:14 | |
Thank you very much indeed for having us. | 0:03:14 | 0:03:16 | |
-It's beautiful! -Thank you. | 0:03:16 | 0:03:17 | |
They look good. Look at these. | 0:03:17 | 0:03:19 | |
VOICE OVER: 13 years ago, | 0:03:19 | 0:03:21 | |
Selim Ellialti gave up a successful career in IT | 0:03:21 | 0:03:24 | |
to follow his dream and own a vineyard. | 0:03:24 | 0:03:27 | |
He now employs more than 250 growers, presses, | 0:03:27 | 0:03:31 | |
packers and pickers. | 0:03:31 | 0:03:32 | |
Merhaba. | 0:03:32 | 0:03:33 | |
The weapon of choice. | 0:03:35 | 0:03:36 | |
LAUGHTER | 0:03:38 | 0:03:40 | |
I will try very hard not to. | 0:03:40 | 0:03:41 | |
I can't even see them, where are they? | 0:03:41 | 0:03:44 | |
Do I just cut them there? | 0:03:44 | 0:03:45 | |
Happy with that? It's a little bunch of grapes, but, you know, | 0:03:48 | 0:03:51 | |
every bit helps. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:53 | |
What's your favourite part, Selim, of the process? | 0:03:53 | 0:03:56 | |
The most joyful part is drinking... | 0:03:56 | 0:03:58 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:03:58 | 0:03:59 | |
..at the end of the day. | 0:03:59 | 0:04:01 | |
Selim's here, you'd better be careful what you say. | 0:04:15 | 0:04:17 | |
I'm eating far too many, but they are so delicious. Mmm! | 0:04:17 | 0:04:20 | |
The vast majority of the 80 million Turks are Muslim, | 0:04:23 | 0:04:27 | |
yet many here still like a beer or a glass of good wine. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:31 | |
Modern Turkey was founded as a relatively liberal, secular state, | 0:04:31 | 0:04:35 | |
where religion was kept in check. | 0:04:35 | 0:04:37 | |
For decades, religious Turks | 0:04:37 | 0:04:39 | |
were kept out of many positions of authority, | 0:04:39 | 0:04:41 | |
but now they're in power. | 0:04:41 | 0:04:43 | |
In a strange way, | 0:04:43 | 0:04:44 | |
these grapes have come to symbolise | 0:04:44 | 0:04:48 | |
the tensions that exist here in Turkey. | 0:04:48 | 0:04:51 | |
Turkey is home to both people who are pious and conservative | 0:04:51 | 0:04:56 | |
and people who are secular as well, | 0:04:56 | 0:04:58 | |
people who look to Europe for their identity. | 0:04:58 | 0:05:00 | |
And in recent decades, | 0:05:00 | 0:05:01 | |
Turkey and the Turks have really struggled | 0:05:01 | 0:05:03 | |
about which way this country moves, | 0:05:03 | 0:05:06 | |
the direction of the nation. | 0:05:06 | 0:05:07 | |
Does it look to the West for inspiration or to the East? | 0:05:07 | 0:05:11 | |
And that's never really been resolved, and now, | 0:05:11 | 0:05:15 | |
alcohol and wine has become the battleground. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:19 | |
CELEBRATORY MUSIC PLAYS | 0:05:19 | 0:05:22 | |
It's the start of harvest, so it's time to celebrate. | 0:05:24 | 0:05:27 | |
These are fresh, easy-going, | 0:05:42 | 0:05:46 | |
fruity, aromatic wines. | 0:05:46 | 0:05:48 | |
That's really delicious. | 0:05:48 | 0:05:51 | |
HE LAUGHS | 0:05:51 | 0:05:53 | |
Behind the celebrations, | 0:05:53 | 0:05:55 | |
these are worrying times for Selim and his wife, Pinar. | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
Just when Turkish wines were being recognised internationally, | 0:05:58 | 0:06:01 | |
the conservative government | 0:06:01 | 0:06:02 | |
started actively discouraging people from drinking. | 0:06:02 | 0:06:05 | |
Tastings, promotions and advertising of alcohol have been banned. | 0:06:05 | 0:06:09 | |
MUSIC STOPS | 0:06:10 | 0:06:12 | |
CHEERING AND APPLAUSE | 0:06:12 | 0:06:14 | |
It is a difficult year for the industry, for sure. | 0:06:15 | 0:06:19 | |
It was not a very nice, | 0:06:19 | 0:06:20 | |
polite period for me, | 0:06:20 | 0:06:23 | |
and most of the wineries, er, wine brands | 0:06:23 | 0:06:27 | |
are diminishing. | 0:06:27 | 0:06:29 | |
The marketing side, presumably, has become more difficult? | 0:06:29 | 0:06:33 | |
-Yes, exactly. -You need to be more creative. | 0:06:33 | 0:06:36 | |
We have a small group of bloggers | 0:06:36 | 0:06:38 | |
-who came from Istanbul to see our festival. -A small group of bloggers. | 0:06:38 | 0:06:42 | |
I love it. This country is so rich and varied, isn't it? | 0:06:42 | 0:06:46 | |
Of course, you have ladies wearing headscarves doing the picking and | 0:06:46 | 0:06:50 | |
-you have bloggers from Istanbul. -It's a very colourful country. | 0:06:50 | 0:06:55 | |
We have different types | 0:06:55 | 0:06:58 | |
of people, different lives, different beliefs | 0:06:58 | 0:07:01 | |
and we have to learn to live altogether in respect. | 0:07:01 | 0:07:08 | |
If we can achieve this as a country, we are, for sure, | 0:07:08 | 0:07:13 | |
will be capable of making much better wines. | 0:07:13 | 0:07:17 | |
-Much better business. -THEY LAUGH | 0:07:17 | 0:07:19 | |
-It's all about the business, isn't it? -That's why we're all here. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
It feels like different aspects of Turkey | 0:07:34 | 0:07:36 | |
coexist quite happily here at this party. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:40 | |
I wonder if this level of harmony | 0:07:40 | 0:07:42 | |
is something I'll see on the rest of my journey. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:44 | |
I went east, around the Sea of Marmara, | 0:07:51 | 0:07:56 | |
to a city I love... | 0:07:56 | 0:07:57 | |
..Istanbul. | 0:07:58 | 0:08:00 | |
We're still a hell of a distance from the centre of the city but... | 0:08:00 | 0:08:04 | |
we're in it. It is huge. | 0:08:04 | 0:08:07 | |
Istanbul is now a proper mega city. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:11 | |
Stretching over more than 2,000 square miles, | 0:08:11 | 0:08:14 | |
Greater Istanbul is now six times the size of New York. | 0:08:14 | 0:08:18 | |
Ah! | 0:08:18 | 0:08:20 | |
With traffic to match. | 0:08:20 | 0:08:21 | |
The city is home to 16 million Turks. | 0:08:25 | 0:08:29 | |
It's been the scene of extraordinary recent events - | 0:08:29 | 0:08:33 | |
terrorist attacks, political crisis and, of course, | 0:08:33 | 0:08:36 | |
a failed attempt to overthrow | 0:08:36 | 0:08:38 | |
the nation's hugely controversial leader. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:40 | |
Come and have a look at this. | 0:08:40 | 0:08:43 | |
So, that's the president of Turkey, President Erdogan. | 0:08:44 | 0:08:47 | |
He's a hugely significant figure in recent Turkish history, | 0:08:47 | 0:08:51 | |
probably THE most significant figure in recent Turkish history. | 0:08:51 | 0:08:55 | |
You see his poster up all around Istanbul, | 0:08:55 | 0:08:57 | |
and that's actually something | 0:08:57 | 0:08:59 | |
that's pretty rare in a serious democracy. | 0:08:59 | 0:09:02 | |
Opponents often portray the president as a would-be dictator. | 0:09:04 | 0:09:07 | |
He portrays himself as a devout Muslim from a humble background | 0:09:07 | 0:09:11 | |
on a mission to make Turkey great. | 0:09:11 | 0:09:13 | |
Under his rule, the country's experienced dramatic change. | 0:09:13 | 0:09:17 | |
Millions of people from the poorer east of Turkey have migrated here | 0:09:17 | 0:09:22 | |
to Istanbul, and they've transformed it. | 0:09:22 | 0:09:26 | |
The new arrivals are mostly conservative religious families. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:29 | |
Many settled in what were originally shanty districts within the city. | 0:09:29 | 0:09:33 | |
I think we're here. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:34 | |
CALL TO PRAYER | 0:09:35 | 0:09:37 | |
This is a part of Istanbul that's away from the tourist trail - | 0:09:38 | 0:09:42 | |
an area of often illegally built blocks known as Gezi condos, | 0:09:42 | 0:09:47 | |
houses that landed in the night. | 0:09:47 | 0:09:49 | |
I went to meet a family who call it home. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:51 | |
Merhaba. Merhaba. Merhaba. Merhaba. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:56 | |
VOICE OVER: Many outsiders still call this a shanty town, | 0:09:56 | 0:09:59 | |
but domestic life for the Jamar family | 0:09:59 | 0:10:02 | |
looks surprisingly comfortable. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:04 | |
Oh, look. Look at this! | 0:10:04 | 0:10:07 | |
Slippers for visitors. | 0:10:07 | 0:10:09 | |
They're very nice, thank you very much. | 0:10:09 | 0:10:11 | |
It's the new bride that does all the work. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:22 | |
I have been in a lot of shanty areas in a lot of countries on the planet | 0:10:24 | 0:10:27 | |
and, honestly, | 0:10:27 | 0:10:29 | |
this is unlike any I have seen before. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:32 | |
President Erdogan's success has been built on improving the lives of | 0:10:32 | 0:10:36 | |
millions of families like this. | 0:10:36 | 0:10:39 | |
He's become a hero to the pious and the poor, | 0:10:39 | 0:10:41 | |
providing housing, jobs and growing the economy. | 0:10:41 | 0:10:44 | |
After winning multiple elections, | 0:11:03 | 0:11:06 | |
Erdogan's now arguably | 0:11:06 | 0:11:07 | |
the most successful democratic politician in the world. | 0:11:07 | 0:11:10 | |
And during the recent failed coup, | 0:11:10 | 0:11:12 | |
when a faction of the Turkish military blocked bridges and streets | 0:11:12 | 0:11:15 | |
with tanks, his millions of supporters remained loyal. | 0:11:15 | 0:11:18 | |
The people who live here have not been forgotten. | 0:11:48 | 0:11:51 | |
They are being looked after, if you like, | 0:11:51 | 0:11:54 | |
they're being provided with the essential services of a state. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:58 | |
Sewerage, for goodness' sake! | 0:11:58 | 0:12:00 | |
And if you're the politician who makes this happen, | 0:12:00 | 0:12:03 | |
you're guaranteed votes. | 0:12:03 | 0:12:05 | |
The religious majority here used to be often oppressed and silent. | 0:12:07 | 0:12:11 | |
Now they run the government. | 0:12:11 | 0:12:13 | |
Secular Turks worry that religion | 0:12:13 | 0:12:15 | |
will soon rule every aspect of daily life, | 0:12:15 | 0:12:17 | |
as it does in much of the Middle East. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:19 | |
Wow. | 0:12:19 | 0:12:21 | |
President Erdogan isn't exactly reassuring them. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:24 | |
Rising over Istanbul for all to see is his signature project - | 0:12:24 | 0:12:29 | |
the giant Camlica Mosque. | 0:12:29 | 0:12:31 | |
Look at the scale of it! | 0:12:31 | 0:12:33 | |
This is one of the largest mosques in the world. | 0:12:33 | 0:12:36 | |
I met up with the man in charge of the build, Ergun Kalunk. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:07 | |
The president personally asked you to be involved in the project? | 0:13:29 | 0:13:33 | |
No pressure, then. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:34 | |
The Ottoman sultans were the last to build huge mosques in Turkey. | 0:13:50 | 0:13:54 | |
Right. | 0:13:59 | 0:14:00 | |
Modern Turkey emerged from the ashes of the vast Ottoman Empire | 0:14:09 | 0:14:13 | |
and the president makes no secret of his respect for the Ottoman sultans. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:18 | |
I'd arrived during a landmark in the build, | 0:14:52 | 0:14:55 | |
the completion of the mosque's central dome. | 0:14:55 | 0:14:58 | |
Turkish flag goes atop grand mosque. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:12 | |
It's quite a moment. | 0:15:13 | 0:15:15 | |
It's up. | 0:15:37 | 0:15:38 | |
What does that moment mean to you? | 0:15:39 | 0:15:42 | |
It really is going to dominate the skyline of Istanbul | 0:15:53 | 0:15:57 | |
for centuries to come. | 0:15:57 | 0:15:59 | |
It's extraordinary. | 0:15:59 | 0:16:00 | |
Supporters of it would doubtless say | 0:16:01 | 0:16:04 | |
that it's sort of helping to rebalance the country, | 0:16:04 | 0:16:07 | |
moving cultural power, religious power as well, | 0:16:07 | 0:16:11 | |
away from the secular elite and towards the religious majority. | 0:16:11 | 0:16:16 | |
Critics, of which there are many, | 0:16:16 | 0:16:19 | |
have been a little bit ruder about it and quite cheeky. | 0:16:19 | 0:16:22 | |
Some of them have said that it's a vanity project for the president | 0:16:22 | 0:16:25 | |
and have labelled it the Mosque of Erdogan the Magnificent. | 0:16:25 | 0:16:28 | |
A more charitable view might be | 0:16:32 | 0:16:33 | |
that Ottoman history and Turkey's Islamic faith are being used | 0:16:33 | 0:16:37 | |
by the president to unify the country and make Turks proud. | 0:16:37 | 0:16:41 | |
Many love his grand projects and big vision for Turkey. | 0:16:41 | 0:16:45 | |
It's not just mosques he's building. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:47 | |
Turkey's had a property boom that has made some here very rich. | 0:16:47 | 0:16:51 | |
Istanbul is now one of the major bases | 0:16:51 | 0:16:53 | |
around the world for billionaires. | 0:16:53 | 0:16:55 | |
And we're off to meet one. | 0:16:56 | 0:16:58 | |
It might seem like a contradiction, | 0:16:58 | 0:17:01 | |
but while the nation's leaders stress modesty and piety, | 0:17:01 | 0:17:04 | |
the flash and the super-rich can thrive here. | 0:17:04 | 0:17:07 | |
We're here. | 0:17:07 | 0:17:08 | |
People like the shy and retiring so-called king of real estate, | 0:17:08 | 0:17:12 | |
Ali Agaoglu. | 0:17:12 | 0:17:13 | |
HE KNOCKS | 0:17:13 | 0:17:15 | |
Should knock, knock. | 0:17:15 | 0:17:16 | |
-Merhaba. -Merhaba. -Mr Ali. | 0:17:16 | 0:17:19 | |
-Merhaba. -Merhaba. | 0:17:22 | 0:17:24 | |
Is this your home? | 0:17:24 | 0:17:26 | |
It feels like we're being invited into a very personal space here. | 0:17:26 | 0:17:29 | |
It's an incredible view, an astonishing location. | 0:17:38 | 0:17:40 | |
Connected at the highest levels, | 0:18:00 | 0:18:03 | |
Ali is rarely out of the national newspapers | 0:18:03 | 0:18:06 | |
for his colourful and extravagant lifestyle. | 0:18:06 | 0:18:08 | |
VOICE OVER: Ali's appeared almost from nowhere | 0:18:10 | 0:18:13 | |
and now owns a 50-acre estate | 0:18:13 | 0:18:14 | |
in one of the swankiest areas of Istanbul. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:17 | |
It's a billionaire's home, look at this. | 0:18:19 | 0:18:21 | |
The mind just boggles. | 0:18:25 | 0:18:27 | |
Come on. | 0:18:27 | 0:18:28 | |
These aren't your shoes or your handbags, are they? | 0:18:36 | 0:18:38 | |
Next, it was his cars. | 0:18:47 | 0:18:49 | |
Oh, my goodness. | 0:18:49 | 0:18:51 | |
Ali took me to see his latest and largest development so far. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:37 | |
Whatever you think of him, Mr Ali's a powerful man. | 0:19:57 | 0:20:01 | |
Look at this view. | 0:20:01 | 0:20:03 | |
It is astonishing. | 0:20:03 | 0:20:04 | |
VOICE OVER: I wondered what he made of the changes affecting Turkey. | 0:20:06 | 0:20:09 | |
It was time for me to leave Istanbul. | 0:20:55 | 0:20:59 | |
I crossed the Bosphorus from Europe | 0:20:59 | 0:21:01 | |
and began travelling around the Asian side of Turkey. | 0:21:01 | 0:21:04 | |
So this is the Osman Gazi Bridge. | 0:21:07 | 0:21:10 | |
It's named after the founder of the Ottoman Empire. | 0:21:10 | 0:21:14 | |
This bridge is part of a number of projects around the country | 0:21:14 | 0:21:16 | |
that's designed to connect up Turkey, | 0:21:16 | 0:21:20 | |
connect up the transport infrastructure, if you like. | 0:21:20 | 0:21:24 | |
Look at this, nothing on the road. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:27 | |
These mega-developments have cost billions | 0:21:27 | 0:21:30 | |
and been made possible by enormous borrowing. | 0:21:30 | 0:21:33 | |
SHE SPEAKS TURKISH | 0:21:33 | 0:21:34 | |
HE LAUGHS | 0:21:36 | 0:21:37 | |
Maybe that's why the bridge was so empty. | 0:21:37 | 0:21:39 | |
It cost us more than 20 quid to cross it. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:43 | |
President Erdogan wants Turkey to be one of the world's top ten economies | 0:21:43 | 0:21:46 | |
by the middle of the next decade. | 0:21:46 | 0:21:48 | |
It's a tall order. Like the empty bridge, | 0:21:48 | 0:21:51 | |
some of his mega-developments seem to be white elephants, | 0:21:51 | 0:21:54 | |
and during the last few years, the economy has stumbled. | 0:21:54 | 0:21:58 | |
My route around Turkey was taking me towards the beaches | 0:22:00 | 0:22:04 | |
and crystal clear waters of the Aegean Sea. | 0:22:04 | 0:22:06 | |
It looks amazing. | 0:22:17 | 0:22:18 | |
We're just approaching the Turkish Riviera, | 0:22:20 | 0:22:23 | |
which is the heart of the Turkish tourism industry. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:26 | |
This is such a classic example of how the world has changed, | 0:22:41 | 0:22:46 | |
how Turkey has changed in the last few decades. | 0:22:46 | 0:22:48 | |
You know, you see, driving down into the town, | 0:22:48 | 0:22:51 | |
you arrive into this extraordinary bay. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:55 | |
The hills around covered in trees, absolutely stunning. | 0:22:55 | 0:22:58 | |
You come round here and then you see what the result of that is - | 0:22:58 | 0:23:02 | |
people want to come and have a holiday here, | 0:23:02 | 0:23:05 | |
so look at all the hotels along the front. | 0:23:05 | 0:23:09 | |
This is just a small bit of Turkey's enormous tourism industry. | 0:23:09 | 0:23:14 | |
It is not just a small part of the economy, | 0:23:15 | 0:23:18 | |
it is a massive employer and revenue provider for the entire country. | 0:23:18 | 0:23:23 | |
This is the Turquoise Coast. | 0:23:23 | 0:23:26 | |
HE CHEERS | 0:23:29 | 0:23:31 | |
40 million tourists come to Turkey every year. | 0:23:35 | 0:23:39 | |
At one point, | 0:23:39 | 0:23:40 | |
it was the sixth-biggest tourist destination in the world. | 0:23:40 | 0:23:43 | |
Legend has it that Mark Antony gave this stretch of coastline | 0:23:46 | 0:23:49 | |
to Cleopatra as his main wedding gift. | 0:23:49 | 0:23:51 | |
Wow. | 0:23:51 | 0:23:53 | |
You can see why. | 0:23:53 | 0:23:54 | |
It's really stunning. | 0:23:54 | 0:23:56 | |
The country completely depends on tourism. | 0:23:59 | 0:24:01 | |
But for hotel and boat owners like our skipper, Ethem Yeet, | 0:24:03 | 0:24:07 | |
times are hard. | 0:24:07 | 0:24:09 | |
Ethem, it's beautiful here. | 0:24:10 | 0:24:12 | |
-Thank you. -Really gorgeous. | 0:24:12 | 0:24:15 | |
How is business at the moment? | 0:24:15 | 0:24:17 | |
How bad is it getting, are you having sleepless nights? | 0:24:44 | 0:24:46 | |
Turkey's position between Europe and the Middle East | 0:25:07 | 0:25:10 | |
makes it strategically vital but also incredibly vulnerable | 0:25:10 | 0:25:14 | |
to the catastrophes that have afflicted the region. | 0:25:14 | 0:25:17 | |
War in neighbouring Syria has been a hammer blow | 0:25:17 | 0:25:19 | |
to millions in the tourism industry here. | 0:25:19 | 0:25:21 | |
It is weird to be here. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:34 | |
Looking out onto Greece over here, this is the island of Lesbos. | 0:25:34 | 0:25:40 | |
A year ago, I was on Lesbos watching as hundreds and hundreds of migrants | 0:25:40 | 0:25:47 | |
and refugees landed there. | 0:25:47 | 0:25:49 | |
It was a complicated and upsetting situation then, | 0:25:51 | 0:25:55 | |
it remains a complicated and upsetting situation today. | 0:25:55 | 0:25:58 | |
There is still no solution to it. | 0:25:58 | 0:26:00 | |
There is still war in Syria, | 0:26:00 | 0:26:02 | |
there are still hundreds of thousands of people | 0:26:02 | 0:26:04 | |
who are refugees, | 0:26:04 | 0:26:05 | |
and, of course, there are plenty of other migrants on the move | 0:26:05 | 0:26:09 | |
around the world at this time of unprecedented migration and crisis. | 0:26:09 | 0:26:13 | |
At the height of the crisis, thousands of migrants and refugees | 0:26:15 | 0:26:20 | |
were leaving Turkey for Europe every day. | 0:26:20 | 0:26:22 | |
The credibility of the entire European Union was threatened. | 0:26:22 | 0:26:27 | |
The EU says it stopped the influx by striking a deal with Turkey | 0:26:27 | 0:26:30 | |
to keep migrants and refugees in the country | 0:26:30 | 0:26:33 | |
and it's giving Turkey billions of euros in aid. | 0:26:33 | 0:26:36 | |
I met up with a people smuggler. | 0:26:40 | 0:26:42 | |
He insisted his identity must be concealed. | 0:26:42 | 0:26:45 | |
At the moment, the flow of refugees and migrants | 0:26:48 | 0:26:50 | |
across the water to Greece seems to have almost stopped. | 0:26:50 | 0:26:54 | |
Why? | 0:26:54 | 0:26:55 | |
So it's not the Turkish government that has switched off the tap, | 0:27:01 | 0:27:04 | |
it's the Macedonian government | 0:27:04 | 0:27:06 | |
closing the border that has really made the difference? | 0:27:06 | 0:27:10 | |
With European borders finally closed, | 0:27:18 | 0:27:21 | |
many Syrians believe their best options are back in the Middle East. | 0:27:21 | 0:27:25 | |
It's not the wealthiest Islamic states they turn to, | 0:27:25 | 0:27:28 | |
like Saudi Arabia or Kuwait - | 0:27:28 | 0:27:30 | |
many Syrians see their future here in Turkey. | 0:27:30 | 0:27:33 | |
Good Lord, people are paying | 0:28:04 | 0:28:06 | |
to be smuggled back out of Europe into Turkey. That's astonishing. | 0:28:06 | 0:28:11 | |
There are now more than 65 million people around the world | 0:28:32 | 0:28:36 | |
displaced by conflict, the largest number since the Second World War. | 0:28:36 | 0:28:41 | |
Almost three million Syrian refugees are living in Turkey. | 0:28:41 | 0:28:45 | |
Many have found work in the country's black economy. | 0:28:45 | 0:28:49 | |
They're hard to track down, living on the margins of society. | 0:28:49 | 0:28:53 | |
Jump in, jump in. | 0:28:53 | 0:28:55 | |
VOICE OVER: So I met up with Musab Yousef, | 0:28:55 | 0:28:57 | |
a photographer who's been documenting the refugee crisis. | 0:28:57 | 0:29:01 | |
Hi. | 0:29:01 | 0:29:02 | |
He's heard about a group of Syrians | 0:29:04 | 0:29:06 | |
working at a stone cutting factory inland. | 0:29:06 | 0:29:08 | |
-Assalaamu Alaikum. -Assalaamu Alaikum. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:25 | |
Syrians are rarely paid as much as Turkish workers, | 0:29:40 | 0:29:44 | |
leading to claims businesses are exploiting a cheap new labour force. | 0:29:44 | 0:29:47 | |
Employers here have said they're training and often housing Syrians, | 0:30:17 | 0:30:21 | |
which is why they're paid less. | 0:30:21 | 0:30:23 | |
It's very hard to make a judgment on the morality of this situation | 0:30:23 | 0:30:27 | |
because this is not... | 0:30:27 | 0:30:28 | |
This is not a normal situation, this is a time of chaos in this region. | 0:30:30 | 0:30:35 | |
The West and the Middle East are not providing enough support, | 0:30:35 | 0:30:38 | |
so people are going to have to look after themselves | 0:30:38 | 0:30:41 | |
and they're going to need to earn some money for their families. | 0:30:41 | 0:30:46 | |
Jassim Mohammed taught electrical engineering at a technical college | 0:30:46 | 0:30:49 | |
in Syria before he was forced to flee across the border | 0:30:49 | 0:30:52 | |
with his young family. | 0:30:52 | 0:30:53 | |
I'm sorry to ask, but why did you leave Syria? | 0:30:56 | 0:31:00 | |
So is this where you're living now? | 0:31:18 | 0:31:20 | |
-Assalaamu Alaikum. -You're living in here? | 0:31:21 | 0:31:24 | |
Is it OK to come in? | 0:31:25 | 0:31:26 | |
Assalaamu Alaikum. Assalaamu Alaikum. Hi. | 0:31:27 | 0:31:30 | |
Family, family, family. | 0:31:30 | 0:31:31 | |
Wow. | 0:31:33 | 0:31:34 | |
In a building not much bigger than a garage, | 0:31:36 | 0:31:39 | |
there were dozens of people living together. | 0:31:39 | 0:31:41 | |
We're near the Turkish coast here, we're near a coastline from which | 0:32:02 | 0:32:06 | |
tens of thousands of Syrians left to try and find their way to Europe. | 0:32:06 | 0:32:10 | |
Were any of you planning to go to Europe? | 0:32:10 | 0:32:12 | |
Turks and Syrians share a faith, but their culture and their language are | 0:32:35 | 0:32:39 | |
profoundly different, | 0:32:39 | 0:32:41 | |
yet Turkey is doing more than any other country | 0:32:41 | 0:32:43 | |
to host refugees like these. | 0:32:43 | 0:32:45 | |
I wondered what Jassim thought the future holds for his two boys. | 0:32:49 | 0:32:52 | |
Do you think you'll ever be able to take them home? | 0:33:06 | 0:33:08 | |
The war across Turkey's southern border in Syria continues | 0:33:31 | 0:33:35 | |
with devastating effects. | 0:33:35 | 0:33:37 | |
The refugee crisis isn't the only consequence for Turkey. | 0:33:37 | 0:33:41 | |
The country has been the victim of brutal terror attacks | 0:33:41 | 0:33:44 | |
by so-called Islamic State, targeting cities, | 0:33:44 | 0:33:47 | |
the main national airport and holiday-makers. | 0:33:47 | 0:33:50 | |
I headed back towards Turkey's glorious Aegean coast to Antalya, | 0:33:56 | 0:34:01 | |
past huge themed hotels built like palaces, castles and wedding cakes. | 0:34:01 | 0:34:07 | |
There's even one modelled on the Kremlin. | 0:34:07 | 0:34:10 | |
Well, this really is the resorty bit of the coastline. | 0:34:10 | 0:34:14 | |
This has the feel, to me, of Dubai. | 0:34:14 | 0:34:17 | |
The perfect storm of crises that have hit Turkey have come after | 0:34:19 | 0:34:22 | |
many resorts here had invested heavily | 0:34:22 | 0:34:24 | |
to appeal to wealthier western and Russian guests. | 0:34:24 | 0:34:27 | |
Wow. | 0:34:27 | 0:34:28 | |
That's a statement all right. | 0:34:30 | 0:34:31 | |
Let's get our bags. | 0:34:33 | 0:34:34 | |
I had come to the most expensive hotel ever built in Turkey. | 0:34:34 | 0:34:37 | |
-Hello. -Hi. Welcome to Mardan Palace. -Thank you very much indeed. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:41 | |
Cetin Pehlivan has been general manager of the Mardan Palace | 0:34:41 | 0:34:45 | |
since it opened eight years ago. | 0:34:45 | 0:34:47 | |
Costing an eye-watering £1 billion, the hotel has more than 500 rooms. | 0:34:47 | 0:34:53 | |
Wow, look at the size of the chandeliers, | 0:34:53 | 0:34:55 | |
-I was going to say singular, but plural. -We have five chandeliers. | 0:34:55 | 0:34:59 | |
Sun is shining in Antalya | 0:34:59 | 0:35:00 | |
and Mardan Palace also is shining with that chandelier. | 0:35:00 | 0:35:03 | |
I look at it and I worry about the cleaning. | 0:35:08 | 0:35:10 | |
-We have a special team for that. -I'm sure you do. | 0:35:10 | 0:35:13 | |
-Yeah. -I'm sure you do. -Yeah. | 0:35:13 | 0:35:14 | |
With 10,000 square metres of gold leaf... | 0:35:17 | 0:35:20 | |
..and three football pitches of Italian marble... | 0:35:22 | 0:35:24 | |
..the Mardan Palace appeals perfectly to guests who like luxury | 0:35:26 | 0:35:30 | |
and a tonne of bling. | 0:35:30 | 0:35:31 | |
SIMON CHUCKLES You've got a gondola here. | 0:35:33 | 0:35:36 | |
-Yeah. -Of course. And we're going to go on a gondola? -Yeah. | 0:35:36 | 0:35:39 | |
-Of course, of course. What could be more normal? -Should be unique. | 0:35:39 | 0:35:42 | |
Merhaba. | 0:35:42 | 0:35:44 | |
Right now when you go to Istanbul | 0:35:44 | 0:35:46 | |
-you can see the same in the Bosphorus. -Yeah. | 0:35:46 | 0:35:49 | |
But we're in a gondola inside your hotel. | 0:35:49 | 0:35:54 | |
Yeah. | 0:35:54 | 0:35:55 | |
Actually, we have not only one gondola, we have two gondolas. | 0:35:55 | 0:35:59 | |
-Every night... -Why have one gondola when you could have two? | 0:35:59 | 0:36:01 | |
The Mardan Palace employs 1,500 staff. | 0:36:04 | 0:36:07 | |
Thank you. | 0:36:07 | 0:36:09 | |
It has a monthly electricity bill of a quarter of a million pounds. | 0:36:09 | 0:36:14 | |
With overheads like that, it needs to fill every room, | 0:36:14 | 0:36:18 | |
especially its most expensive. | 0:36:18 | 0:36:20 | |
Whoa. How much does it cost to stay here? | 0:36:22 | 0:36:24 | |
-Would you like to learn? -Yes, please. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:26 | |
15,000 euro per day. | 0:36:26 | 0:36:28 | |
15,000 euros per day. | 0:36:30 | 0:36:32 | |
Who is this gentleman who's walking around, who is this? | 0:36:34 | 0:36:36 | |
-Your butler. -What do you mean, MY butler? | 0:36:36 | 0:36:40 | |
He will assist you during your stay, our guest. | 0:36:40 | 0:36:43 | |
Are you suggesting I am staying here? | 0:36:43 | 0:36:45 | |
-I'm staying here? -Yeah. | 0:36:47 | 0:36:48 | |
-Hello, by the way. -Hello. | 0:36:49 | 0:36:50 | |
-Merhaba, I'm Simon. -Merhaba. -Nice to see you again. | 0:36:50 | 0:36:53 | |
I didn't realise you were going to be, you know, | 0:36:53 | 0:36:55 | |
accompanying us into the room. THEY LAUGH | 0:36:55 | 0:36:57 | |
It's... It's... | 0:36:57 | 0:36:59 | |
-It's very nice to see you. -Yes, OK. Thank you. | 0:36:59 | 0:37:01 | |
HE GASPS | 0:37:02 | 0:37:05 | |
Look at this! | 0:37:05 | 0:37:06 | |
This is the most... | 0:37:08 | 0:37:10 | |
how the other half live place I think I've ever been to. | 0:37:10 | 0:37:13 | |
Just to be absolutely clear, | 0:37:15 | 0:37:18 | |
we are not paying thousands of pounds for me to stay in this hotel. | 0:37:18 | 0:37:23 | |
No letters to Points Of View, all right? | 0:37:23 | 0:37:25 | |
Or the Daily Mail. | 0:37:25 | 0:37:27 | |
A simple breakfast. | 0:37:50 | 0:37:52 | |
Like most tourist businesses here, | 0:37:54 | 0:37:57 | |
the Mardan Palace is feeling the effects | 0:37:57 | 0:37:59 | |
of the drop in holiday-makers. | 0:37:59 | 0:38:01 | |
It's quite sad to see, it's really empty out there. | 0:38:02 | 0:38:05 | |
I mean, maybe a dozen of the sunbeds are occupied. | 0:38:06 | 0:38:11 | |
You're going to have to find new customers | 0:38:13 | 0:38:16 | |
and some hotels around here | 0:38:16 | 0:38:18 | |
think they've got the answer. | 0:38:18 | 0:38:20 | |
The solution could be a new tourism market that seems to fit very neatly | 0:38:23 | 0:38:27 | |
into President Erdogan's new, more religious Turkey. | 0:38:27 | 0:38:30 | |
While the rest of the tourism industry in Turkey sees a slump, | 0:38:31 | 0:38:35 | |
Ufuk Secgin is an entrepreneur who sees opportunity. | 0:38:35 | 0:38:39 | |
How is business for you in Turkey at the moment? | 0:38:39 | 0:38:42 | |
It's booming. Year-on-year, compared to last year, we doubled our sales. | 0:38:42 | 0:38:47 | |
-Doubled? -Doubled, yes. | 0:38:47 | 0:38:49 | |
So, Ufuk, is this one of yours? | 0:38:49 | 0:38:51 | |
This is one of our top-selling resorts, yeah. | 0:38:51 | 0:38:54 | |
-Right. -This is called halal-friendly tourism. | 0:38:54 | 0:38:57 | |
-Halal-friendly tourism? -Halal-friendly tourism, yeah. | 0:38:57 | 0:39:00 | |
Ufuk runs a booming firm offering tailor-made holidays | 0:39:00 | 0:39:03 | |
specifically for Muslims. | 0:39:03 | 0:39:05 | |
What did you have to...? | 0:39:05 | 0:39:07 | |
You had to convert it into a halal-friendly hotel, | 0:39:07 | 0:39:11 | |
no pork and no alcohol, presumably? | 0:39:11 | 0:39:14 | |
Absolutely. No alcohol. | 0:39:14 | 0:39:16 | |
Those are really the basic requirements. | 0:39:16 | 0:39:18 | |
What we then focus on more is the facilities. | 0:39:18 | 0:39:21 | |
-Swimming pool or...? -Yeah. | 0:39:21 | 0:39:23 | |
There's a complete separate swimming pool for women and one for men | 0:39:23 | 0:39:28 | |
and there's also a mixed zone as well for families. | 0:39:28 | 0:39:31 | |
-So three swimming pools, then? -Yes. | 0:39:31 | 0:39:34 | |
And what's this here? | 0:39:34 | 0:39:36 | |
So this is, basically, | 0:39:36 | 0:39:38 | |
behind the walls that's the area for all the ladies. | 0:39:38 | 0:39:42 | |
So that's the outdoor pool area. | 0:39:42 | 0:39:44 | |
That's the ladies swimming pool area? | 0:39:44 | 0:39:46 | |
Absolutely. | 0:39:46 | 0:39:47 | |
To cater for Muslims, | 0:39:49 | 0:39:51 | |
the hotel has built a 50-foot barrier through its existing pool. | 0:39:51 | 0:39:55 | |
It's a high wall here to stop people seeing in from the rooms over there, | 0:39:55 | 0:40:00 | |
-is it? -Yeah. I would say that's the most important thing, | 0:40:00 | 0:40:03 | |
to have the outdoor pool area 100% private. | 0:40:03 | 0:40:07 | |
So what is this area here now? | 0:40:07 | 0:40:09 | |
So this is the mixed pool. | 0:40:09 | 0:40:10 | |
There's a rule in terms of the swimming dress, | 0:40:10 | 0:40:13 | |
so ladies are wearing a burkini. | 0:40:13 | 0:40:17 | |
The mixed pool for families, | 0:40:17 | 0:40:18 | |
ladies can go there generally but they would wear a burkini? | 0:40:18 | 0:40:22 | |
-Burkini, yes. -So inside... | 0:40:22 | 0:40:25 | |
They can wear a bikini. | 0:40:25 | 0:40:26 | |
Behind the wall there. Bikinis in there, burkinis out there? | 0:40:26 | 0:40:30 | |
-Burkinis, yeah. -All right. | 0:40:30 | 0:40:31 | |
-And so... -Usually, people... It's a common understanding. | 0:40:31 | 0:40:34 | |
-Yeah. -People who choose these type of hotels, | 0:40:34 | 0:40:36 | |
they understand and that's actually why they're coming here | 0:40:36 | 0:40:39 | |
because they know people are observing the rules. | 0:40:39 | 0:40:41 | |
This hotel used to host lobster-coloured Germans and Brits. | 0:40:43 | 0:40:46 | |
The wall down the middle of the swimming pool | 0:40:46 | 0:40:49 | |
is a bit of a shock to me. | 0:40:49 | 0:40:51 | |
I struggle with that. | 0:40:54 | 0:40:55 | |
Demand for halal-friendly holidays here is rising. | 0:40:56 | 0:41:00 | |
Within the next few years, | 0:41:00 | 0:41:01 | |
the global industry is expected to be worth almost £200 billion. | 0:41:01 | 0:41:05 | |
The point is that this industry, | 0:41:07 | 0:41:10 | |
this sector of the industry is booming. | 0:41:10 | 0:41:13 | |
This, clearly, | 0:41:13 | 0:41:15 | |
is the future. | 0:41:15 | 0:41:16 | |
For many here, segregated swimming pools are part of a larger battle | 0:41:28 | 0:41:32 | |
over women's rights. Many women, especially in rural areas, | 0:41:32 | 0:41:36 | |
have struggled to achieve equal rights in Turkey. | 0:41:36 | 0:41:39 | |
The country ranks low on global studies of gender equality. | 0:41:39 | 0:41:43 | |
Only half of all girls between 15 and 19 are in any kind of education. | 0:41:43 | 0:41:47 | |
Some suggest the increasing dominance | 0:41:48 | 0:41:51 | |
of traditional Islamic values won't help matters. | 0:41:51 | 0:41:54 | |
Shall we just stop on the right here? | 0:41:57 | 0:41:59 | |
Brilliant. | 0:41:59 | 0:42:00 | |
This is a large mosque that's being built over here. | 0:42:01 | 0:42:05 | |
It's part of a huge programme of mosque building | 0:42:06 | 0:42:10 | |
across the entire country. | 0:42:10 | 0:42:13 | |
Supporters, I think, | 0:42:13 | 0:42:14 | |
would say that it's a recognition of the faith of the majority of Turks | 0:42:14 | 0:42:18 | |
who are actually really rather religious. | 0:42:18 | 0:42:20 | |
Critics would say Turkey could do with a few more hospitals rather | 0:42:20 | 0:42:24 | |
than yet more places of worship. | 0:42:24 | 0:42:26 | |
More interesting for me, actually, | 0:42:27 | 0:42:29 | |
the workmen have just told us this is a religious education centre | 0:42:29 | 0:42:33 | |
that's being built. | 0:42:33 | 0:42:34 | |
And religious education here's hugely controversial. | 0:42:34 | 0:42:38 | |
I'm off to the town of Konya now, | 0:42:38 | 0:42:40 | |
to a religious school that's agreed to let me visit. | 0:42:40 | 0:42:43 | |
I was heading into the rural heartlands of Turkey, | 0:42:51 | 0:42:54 | |
to the country's most religious and conservative city, Konya. | 0:42:54 | 0:42:58 | |
President Erdogan has said he wants to raise a pious generation, | 0:43:04 | 0:43:09 | |
and religious schools have proliferated in Turkey | 0:43:09 | 0:43:11 | |
in recent years, | 0:43:11 | 0:43:12 | |
with the number of students rising from tens of thousands | 0:43:12 | 0:43:15 | |
to more than one and a half million, an important issue. | 0:43:15 | 0:43:19 | |
The government's proud of the schools, or so I thought. | 0:43:19 | 0:43:22 | |
So, I've arrived in Konya | 0:43:23 | 0:43:25 | |
expecting I'd be visiting a state religious school this morning | 0:43:25 | 0:43:29 | |
but at the last moment | 0:43:29 | 0:43:31 | |
the government has pulled the plug and said no. | 0:43:31 | 0:43:33 | |
Tesekkur. | 0:43:34 | 0:43:35 | |
I was hoping that it would be a chance to learn more | 0:43:38 | 0:43:41 | |
about the growth of religious schools in Turkey, | 0:43:41 | 0:43:44 | |
which is happening at quite a pace at the moment. | 0:43:44 | 0:43:47 | |
I think the fact that we've got here and then we're told we can't go | 0:43:48 | 0:43:51 | |
to the school might make a suspicious person think | 0:43:51 | 0:43:54 | |
that the government has got something to hide. | 0:43:54 | 0:43:57 | |
Certainly, one thing we were told is that people were worried that if | 0:43:58 | 0:44:01 | |
we saw rows of young schoolgirls wearing headscarves, | 0:44:01 | 0:44:05 | |
wearing hijabs and studying the Koran it might make viewers think | 0:44:05 | 0:44:09 | |
that they were looking at a classroom in Iran. | 0:44:09 | 0:44:11 | |
Many Turks feel the curriculum in the religious schools | 0:44:15 | 0:44:17 | |
is far too narrow. | 0:44:17 | 0:44:19 | |
The government here hasn't responded well to their criticism | 0:44:19 | 0:44:23 | |
or to anybody else's. | 0:44:23 | 0:44:24 | |
In fact, freedom of speech is taking a battering here. | 0:44:24 | 0:44:27 | |
In the wake of the failed coup, newspapers have been shut down | 0:44:29 | 0:44:33 | |
and Turkey now jails more journalists | 0:44:33 | 0:44:35 | |
than China and Iran combined. | 0:44:35 | 0:44:37 | |
The remaining pro-government papers | 0:44:37 | 0:44:39 | |
have become a mouthpiece for the regime. | 0:44:39 | 0:44:41 | |
Foreign media organisations are also under suspicion. | 0:44:41 | 0:44:44 | |
Unbelievable. This is the front page main article | 0:44:44 | 0:44:50 | |
on one of the big Turkish newspapers | 0:44:50 | 0:44:52 | |
and the main headline, the banner headline, is, | 0:44:52 | 0:44:55 | |
"BBC English terror agency." | 0:44:55 | 0:44:58 | |
Apparently the BBC has been supporting | 0:44:58 | 0:45:01 | |
or supportive of the organisation | 0:45:01 | 0:45:04 | |
which is suspected of having organised the coup. | 0:45:04 | 0:45:08 | |
And they're basically saying the BBC has been involved in plotting | 0:45:08 | 0:45:12 | |
against the Turkish government. | 0:45:12 | 0:45:14 | |
It's completely unbelievable. | 0:45:14 | 0:45:18 | |
The BBC can't even... | 0:45:18 | 0:45:19 | |
Well, it struggles to get Top Gear right, | 0:45:20 | 0:45:22 | |
let alone organise a bloody coup in another country. | 0:45:22 | 0:45:24 | |
Look at what the increasingly authoritarian Islamic government | 0:45:26 | 0:45:29 | |
here says about faith, women, democracy, | 0:45:29 | 0:45:31 | |
human rights, and it can seem the country's lurching in a direction | 0:45:31 | 0:45:35 | |
many in the West find alarming. | 0:45:35 | 0:45:37 | |
But traditionally this country's been a moderate force | 0:45:37 | 0:45:40 | |
in the Islamic world. | 0:45:40 | 0:45:41 | |
Turkey's a centre for a mystical strand of Islam known as Sufism. | 0:45:43 | 0:45:47 | |
Every year, millions come to Konya to pay their respects at the tomb of | 0:45:48 | 0:45:52 | |
a great Sufi poet and scholar called Mevlana, who preached tolerance, | 0:45:52 | 0:45:56 | |
love and respect. | 0:45:56 | 0:45:58 | |
It's one of Turkey's holiest sites. | 0:45:58 | 0:46:00 | |
Even the president regularly visits. | 0:46:00 | 0:46:02 | |
Is this, as much as anywhere, the soul of Turkish Islam? | 0:46:06 | 0:46:12 | |
Esin Celebi is a descendant of Mevlana and deeply respected figure. | 0:46:45 | 0:46:50 | |
In fact, she's something of a celebrity. | 0:46:55 | 0:46:57 | |
Why did you want to get your photo taken with her? | 0:47:00 | 0:47:02 | |
I am...I'm astonished to see all these police officers. | 0:47:20 | 0:47:25 | |
They've got their feet covered and they've still got their side arms. | 0:47:26 | 0:47:29 | |
Sufis believe in a loving God, not a vengeful one. | 0:47:35 | 0:47:38 | |
One of this nation's most famous symbols is a dance Mevlana inspired. | 0:47:39 | 0:47:44 | |
But it's so much more fundamental than that. | 0:47:45 | 0:47:48 | |
These are the whirling dervishes of Konya. | 0:47:51 | 0:47:54 | |
As they spin, they try to connect their souls to the Almighty. | 0:47:55 | 0:47:58 | |
Their deeply spiritual dance is part of a Sufi tradition that has helped | 0:48:00 | 0:48:04 | |
to shape the traditionally tolerant nature of Islam in Turkey. | 0:48:04 | 0:48:07 | |
And I think what I take away from this is, | 0:48:13 | 0:48:16 | |
fundamentally Turkish Islam, | 0:48:16 | 0:48:18 | |
it is different to how Islam is thought of | 0:48:18 | 0:48:22 | |
and practised to a certain degree in other parts of the world. | 0:48:22 | 0:48:27 | |
For example, Saudi Islam, Wahhabism, which is such a dominant, | 0:48:27 | 0:48:31 | |
powerful force in Islam around the world. | 0:48:31 | 0:48:34 | |
Rather than fearing the rise of religion in Turkey, | 0:48:38 | 0:48:41 | |
some leaders here say the world should welcome it | 0:48:41 | 0:48:44 | |
as a healthy balance to rich, ultraconservative Islamic nations. | 0:48:44 | 0:48:47 | |
President Erdogan has said a powerful, pious but moderate Turkey, | 0:48:49 | 0:48:53 | |
certainly when compared to other countries in the Middle East, | 0:48:53 | 0:48:56 | |
is nothing less than the hope of the entire Islamic world. | 0:48:56 | 0:49:00 | |
I was coming to the end of the first part of my journey around Turkey | 0:49:10 | 0:49:14 | |
as I headed to its volatile and dangerous | 0:49:14 | 0:49:16 | |
southern border with Syria. | 0:49:16 | 0:49:18 | |
Another refugee camp. | 0:49:31 | 0:49:33 | |
And another on the left-hand side as well. | 0:49:33 | 0:49:35 | |
They're scattered throughout this region, | 0:49:36 | 0:49:39 | |
housing tens of thousands of men, women and children. | 0:49:39 | 0:49:43 | |
The Turkish government has built more than 20 huge camps | 0:49:45 | 0:49:49 | |
hosting around a quarter of a million Syrians. | 0:49:49 | 0:49:52 | |
It's an extraordinary act of generosity and friendship. | 0:49:52 | 0:49:55 | |
Turkey's done more than any other country to give shelter | 0:49:56 | 0:49:59 | |
to the millions of people fleeing the unfolding tragedy in Syria. | 0:49:59 | 0:50:03 | |
And we are now arriving into one of the main refugee camps in this area. | 0:50:03 | 0:50:09 | |
Government official Orhan Gurbuz was keen to show me the facilities. | 0:50:14 | 0:50:17 | |
So it's a fully functioning small town, effectively? | 0:50:34 | 0:50:37 | |
-Exactly. -Does the camp...? | 0:50:37 | 0:50:41 | |
DISTANT THUDDING | 0:50:41 | 0:50:42 | |
What was that noise? | 0:50:42 | 0:50:43 | |
Bombing. | 0:50:45 | 0:50:47 | |
-That was artillery? -I think so. | 0:50:47 | 0:50:49 | |
-I'm not expert, but, yeah. -No. | 0:50:49 | 0:50:51 | |
It's common here, we hear all the time. | 0:50:51 | 0:50:53 | |
The hairs on my arms are going up at that sound because that is the war | 0:50:56 | 0:51:02 | |
and that is just beyond this wall right here. | 0:51:02 | 0:51:06 | |
And this, in fact, is basically the Turkish border with Syria. | 0:51:09 | 0:51:15 | |
Just a few miles in that direction was a so-called Isis stronghold. | 0:51:17 | 0:51:23 | |
The Syrian city of Aleppo is a short distance that way. | 0:51:23 | 0:51:26 | |
War is raging there right now. | 0:51:26 | 0:51:29 | |
And we're here inside a refugee camp | 0:51:29 | 0:51:33 | |
with children around playing on their bicycles... | 0:51:33 | 0:51:36 | |
..people going about their business. | 0:51:38 | 0:51:39 | |
It's like a porthole view into another world. | 0:51:45 | 0:51:48 | |
After four long years of war... | 0:51:54 | 0:51:56 | |
-ALL: -Bye! | 0:51:56 | 0:51:58 | |
..for many Syrians this is the closest they'll get | 0:51:58 | 0:52:00 | |
to some kind of normality. | 0:52:00 | 0:52:03 | |
Look at this! | 0:52:03 | 0:52:04 | |
There's a kiddy play area here. | 0:52:05 | 0:52:07 | |
This is really, really unusual. | 0:52:07 | 0:52:11 | |
And there's so many other things about this camp | 0:52:11 | 0:52:13 | |
that really mark it out - | 0:52:13 | 0:52:14 | |
satellite dishes on loads of the homes, there is street lighting, | 0:52:14 | 0:52:19 | |
there are fire hydrants, there is a sewage system, | 0:52:19 | 0:52:21 | |
there's electricity for people, shops, schools. | 0:52:21 | 0:52:25 | |
They've done something fundamentally different here | 0:52:25 | 0:52:28 | |
and I do think Turkey should be congratulated for it. | 0:52:28 | 0:52:31 | |
Some say these are the best refugee camps ever built. | 0:52:33 | 0:52:36 | |
Turkey spent more than £8 billion on the refugees. | 0:52:36 | 0:52:40 | |
With help from abroad, they even hand out cash cards | 0:52:40 | 0:52:42 | |
topped up with credit, so people can buy what they need in shops. | 0:52:42 | 0:52:46 | |
It's the supermarket. | 0:52:46 | 0:52:47 | |
The cost of all this has hit Turkey hard, | 0:53:12 | 0:53:14 | |
but there could be a solid political reason | 0:53:14 | 0:53:17 | |
behind the government's policy here. | 0:53:17 | 0:53:19 | |
President Erdogan has talked about the possibility | 0:53:20 | 0:53:24 | |
of giving citizenship | 0:53:24 | 0:53:25 | |
to refugees in this country and, of course, | 0:53:25 | 0:53:28 | |
if he was to grant them citizenship, | 0:53:28 | 0:53:30 | |
it's quite likely that they would feel rather grateful to him | 0:53:30 | 0:53:34 | |
and would want to vote | 0:53:34 | 0:53:35 | |
for President Erdogan and his political party. | 0:53:35 | 0:53:38 | |
As predominantly conservative Muslims, | 0:53:39 | 0:53:42 | |
Syrians might be natural Erdogan supporters. | 0:53:42 | 0:53:45 | |
There we go - Turkish language school. | 0:53:46 | 0:53:49 | |
There are signs here that many Syrians think they won't leave. | 0:53:49 | 0:53:52 | |
Thousands have already taken advantage | 0:53:52 | 0:53:54 | |
of state-sponsored Turkish lessons. | 0:53:54 | 0:53:56 | |
THEY SPEAK TURKISH | 0:53:56 | 0:53:58 | |
Sir, is it possible to interrupt for just a couple of minutes, | 0:54:07 | 0:54:10 | |
is that all right? | 0:54:10 | 0:54:11 | |
Why do you think you all need to learn Turkish? | 0:54:15 | 0:54:18 | |
Who wants to be a doctor? | 0:54:26 | 0:54:27 | |
One, two, three doctors. | 0:54:29 | 0:54:31 | |
Four. Maybe, four doctors. | 0:54:31 | 0:54:34 | |
Five doctors. | 0:54:34 | 0:54:36 | |
Who wants to be an engineer? Any engineers? | 0:54:36 | 0:54:39 | |
Is the fact that you are learning Turkish | 0:54:41 | 0:54:44 | |
a sign that you don't think you will necessarily be able to go home? | 0:54:44 | 0:54:49 | |
We were standing out on the main street, I suppose, in the camp, | 0:55:10 | 0:55:14 | |
and I was really shocked to hear the thud, thud of artillery fire. | 0:55:14 | 0:55:22 | |
Turkey is now playing a key role in negotiations | 0:56:07 | 0:56:10 | |
aimed at ending the war. | 0:56:10 | 0:56:12 | |
Millions of Syrians have come to see Turkey | 0:56:12 | 0:56:14 | |
as their ally and possible saviour. | 0:56:14 | 0:56:16 | |
It's all part of the country's increasing global reach. | 0:56:16 | 0:56:20 | |
I have personally been in a number of struggling and stricken countries | 0:56:20 | 0:56:24 | |
where the Turks are delivering aid, | 0:56:24 | 0:56:27 | |
where they're opening and running hospitals, | 0:56:27 | 0:56:31 | |
and I think that's all part of the rise of Turkey, | 0:56:31 | 0:56:35 | |
of Turkey becoming a wealthy and powerful and influential country. | 0:56:35 | 0:56:40 | |
Turkey's one of the most important countries on the planet - | 0:56:42 | 0:56:45 | |
a place where East and West meet and sometimes collide | 0:56:45 | 0:56:49 | |
and with conflict raging in the Middle East, Turkey, more than ever, | 0:56:49 | 0:56:53 | |
finds itself at the centre of world events. | 0:56:53 | 0:56:56 | |
My God! | 0:57:01 | 0:57:02 | |
We've just come up a hill just... | 0:57:05 | 0:57:07 | |
The camp is here. | 0:57:07 | 0:57:08 | |
And rockets... | 0:57:09 | 0:57:11 | |
There's outgoing anti-aircraft fire or rockets, | 0:57:11 | 0:57:14 | |
I'm not sure, just coming from there. | 0:57:14 | 0:57:16 | |
There's a farmer down there, | 0:57:20 | 0:57:22 | |
look, just wandering across his field. | 0:57:22 | 0:57:24 | |
There's another tractor just there. | 0:57:24 | 0:57:27 | |
It's extraordinary how quickly people who live here | 0:57:27 | 0:57:30 | |
become accustomed to it - | 0:57:30 | 0:57:33 | |
how the abnormal becomes the normal. | 0:57:33 | 0:57:35 | |
What happens in Turkey affects the Middle East, Europe, | 0:57:40 | 0:57:43 | |
the great religions and us all. | 0:57:43 | 0:57:46 | |
And this is where the first leg of my journey around Turkey ends. | 0:57:46 | 0:57:49 | |
Next time... | 0:57:54 | 0:57:56 | |
This is terrifying and awesome all at the same time. | 0:57:56 | 0:57:59 | |
..I'll discover some of Turkey's extraordinary wildlife... | 0:58:01 | 0:58:04 | |
Oh, my God. | 0:58:06 | 0:58:07 | |
..I'll see the internal conflict tearing this country apart... | 0:58:07 | 0:58:11 | |
It goes on and on, look at this over here. | 0:58:11 | 0:58:13 | |
..and I get a speaking role in one of Turkey's biggest successes. | 0:58:13 | 0:58:17 | |
What do you think? | 0:58:17 | 0:58:18 |