One Wild Winter: Surviving Avalanches


One Wild Winter: Surviving Avalanches

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Every winter, thousands of people head to the mountains

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to experience them at their most magnificent.

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In an age of mobile technology, many of these adventurers carry cameras.

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We made it! Yeah!

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Tales of triumph,

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and of tragedy, are captured in the most

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immediate and intimate way.

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These are the Scottish mountains.

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The winter of 2012-13 was one of the coldest,

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longest and busiest on record in the Scottish mountains.

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It was also one of the deadliest.

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A major search operation is under way tonight for three climbers

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after an avalanche near Glencoe in the Scottish Highlands.

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Mountain Rescue teams say there are fatalities.

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Police have confirmed tonight that a man and woman have died

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following an avalanche in the Cairngorms.

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And it is yet another reminder of just how dangerous

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the Scottish mountains can be in winter.

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14 lives were lost as extreme weather

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and a series of lethal avalanches hit the Highlands.

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Using footage recorded by people who live,

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work and play in these environments...

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Cold!

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..this film will reveal what really happened on the mountains

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and find out how a major meteorological phenomenon

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taking place high up in the atmosphere

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helped shape what was truly a unique winter.

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The winter of 2012-13 began like any other.

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Two of Scotland's ski centres have reported good custom

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on the first day of the season.

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Some runs have been open at the Lecht and Cairngorm Mountain,

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where more than 500 skiers took to the slopes.

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Woo-hoo! Hello!

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-LAUGHING

-Where are we?

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We're up a hill somewhere! I don't really know, but it's really pretty.

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-SHE SINGS

-# Jingle bells, jingle bells

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# Jingle all the way... #

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Then, in January, a major cold spell struck

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and brought with it some of the heaviest snowfall in years.

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Time and time again, we saw the weather systems

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bringing us snow on many occasions.

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It seemed like groundhog day in our weather conditions.

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The combination of high visitor numbers

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and heavy snowfall would prove deadly.

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On 19th January, tragedy struck.

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Four climbers have been killed in an avalanche in Glencoe in Scotland.

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The following week in Ben Nevis,

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another young but experienced climber fell to his death.

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In February, horrendous storms and more major avalanches

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continued to stretch the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Service.

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This last winter was full-on for us.

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We had a lot of big rescues that came on the back of each other.

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We'd be out maybe three or four days in a row.

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We weren't getting any sleep, couple of hours then back out.

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But the winter that was fast becoming

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one of Scotland's most tragic was in no hurry to leave.

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The cold winter conditions lasted right up into early April.

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As late as Easter, the lingering winter would take another life

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when an experienced off-piste skier

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was struck by an avalanche in Glencoe.

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But how unique was this winter?

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What can it tell us about winters to come?

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And just how will the emergency services who protect us cope

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when such a winter strikes again?

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This footage is from the camera of Jonathan Hart.

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As chairman of the Mountain Rescue Committee of Scotland,

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he knows well the benefit and the cost of heavy snowfalls.

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My experience this winter

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is that the unusual event we had was a period of two to three months

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of stable weather, high pressure, but bringing north-easterly

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and north-westerly winds.

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That produced an unusual volume of snow in a short period of time.

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Coupled with large numbers of people coming to Scotland,

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quite rightly, to enjoy the fantastic conditions,

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it meant that we then had a series of incidents we had to deal with.

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The last time that happened, that set of unusual circumstances,

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was in the mid '50s.

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The unusual conditions continued

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to draw more and more people up into the Highlands,

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eager to record and share their great adventures.

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MUSIC: "Flowers In Your Hair" by The Lumineers

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# When we were younger we thought

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# Everyone was on our side

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# Then we grew a little

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# And romanticised

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# The time I saw flowers in your hair

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# It takes a boy to live

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# It takes a man to pretend he was there... #

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The size and quality of modern day cameras

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allow people to capture extraordinary images

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thousands of feet up.

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They're also on hand to capture some of the dramatic rescues.

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Such rescues are rare, as the overwhelming majority

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of people return home without incident.

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But, in winter, the potential for danger should never be forgotten.

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If ever there was an illustration of the perils of walking in winter,

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in Scotland, especially,

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it's this stuff, here,

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which just dislodged as I walked over it.

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It's a whole section of a top layer of snow.

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And all you need to do is step and that's it, it's off,

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and you with it.

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On a steep slope, that could be quite a problem.

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Mark Diggins is the senior forecaster

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at the Sport Scotland Avalanche Information Service.

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Every day, Mark and his colleagues report online the avalanche risk

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in the five most popular mountain areas of Scotland.

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We're about 1,000-odd metres here now.

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There will be places where the snow is drifting,

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and there will be an avalanche hazard.

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Mark works in the Cairngorms National Park.

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In the winter of 2012-13, the Cairngorms was hit

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by an unusually high volume of snow.

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'This winter's been pretty different to other winters,

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'because of where the weather's been coming from.

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'A lot of really Arctic weather.'

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Here in the Cairngorms, snow can build up to 20 feet deep.

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With every snowfall, a new layer is added to the snow pack.

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Within these layers, the snow crystals

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begin to change in form and size.

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It's these changes which determine how well the crystals bond together

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and whether the layer will be strong or weak.

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This snow pit will reveal the condition of the most recent layers.

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Obviously, we've got this very distinct layer, there,

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and then another one here.

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By measuring the temperature at intervals,

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we can begin to understand how the snow is behaving.

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If the temperature changes more

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than around 1 degree centigrade per 10 centimetres,

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the snow can transform into the weak, sugary crystals

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which cause the majority of avalanches.

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I'm just going to clean the face.

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Cutting out a column of these snow layers

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allows for a shock test that is both simple and safe.

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You see a fail, there.

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Usually, the temperature between layers fluctuates

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with the changing weather, allowing the crystals to transform

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back into rounded, well-bonded grains.

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Give it a tap and you see...

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..it's a layer that's presenting a weakness.

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But, in January 2013, the weather stayed persistently cold

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and the crystals failed to bond.

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This winter, the weak layer was in there for about a month.

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Which is quite unusual in Scotland, because often it's so mild

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and we get warm weather and rain affecting the snow pack

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so a lot of those weak layers disappear.

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But this winter it was quite different,

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because those weak layers didn't disappear at all.

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And, also, we've had real extreme events of wind.

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A lot of times it's been over 100mph.

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Massive amounts of snow are being transported.

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It pushes the snow on top of these weak layers,

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and it's just really on a hairline trigger.

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The reports that Mark and his colleagues create

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are published online every day, and are essential reading

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before venturing into snow-covered mountains.

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There's been quite a period where people have really not experienced

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proper winters, or real Scottish winters.

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So maybe they don't quite realise how prepared you need to be.

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It can change so quickly from being a lovely day

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to being really violent and full-on.

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Scientists are only now beginning to understand

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the complex metamorphosis that occurs within a snow pack.

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We used to think that the snow pack was like a sort of sandwich,

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but, actually, it's much more complex than that.

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The snow builds up. Over time, snow moves,

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crystals and grains, from one place to another.

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So there might be little areas

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where it's weaker than other areas.

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That then gets disguised, it gets covered by subsequent snowfalls,

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and, so, really, it could almost be a bit like a minefield.

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To learn more about the lethal potential of snow,

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we must go to a place where understanding its behaviour

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is critical to just about every aspect

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of human endeavour and existence.

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In the Alps, whole towns and villages are built

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in the shadow of huge, snow-covered mountains.

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Roads and railways weave their way through narrow passes.

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On average, 100 lives are lost to avalanches each year.

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In Davos, Switzerland,

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scientists at the Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research

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conduct experiments to analyse the complex life of a snowflake.

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Their experiments range from growing their own, ultra-consistent snow...

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..to the triggering of full-scale avalanches

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whose spectacular power can be seductive.

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They are extremely mysterious.

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They are so complex and so beautiful

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there is always something new to study, to see, to learn.

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They have a kind of

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primitive attraction for this beautiful, natural phenomenon.

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On these mountains, scientists are able to start

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and monitor their own avalanches.

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We try to release, and we do it artificially from a helicopter,

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large avalanches.

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And the aim of these experiments is to measure

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all dynamical parameters that characterise the flow.

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What we are interested in is being able to reproduce the movement

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of these very large avalanches that can reach down to the villages,

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and it's able to tell us how far an avalanche can come.

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And how much pressure and velocity she will exert along the path.

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These measurements are critical to making decisions

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about infrastructure and housing in mountainous areas.

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But it's at the microscopic level where avalanches begin.

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To understand more about snow involved in avalanches,

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researchers collect samples from recent avalanche sites.

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From a geological point of view,

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snow is a high-temperature material.

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And that sounds very strange for most people,

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because snow is almost a symbol for cold.

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But, because snow is always very close to the melting point,

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it behaves as a high-temperature material.

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It's like a metal at several hundred,

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or even thousand degrees.

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And that makes it very fast changing.

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It's one of the fastest changing natural materials we see at all.

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Changing and making new crystals means to change the structure.

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Working in temperatures of minus 20 degrees,

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scientists can analyse these changing structures

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in ways that have only recently become possible.

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Snow is a very elusive material.

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That made it very hard

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to really get a complete picture of the snow.

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And that was the state until about ten years ago,

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when we started with tomography.

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When we could really visualise snow in 3-D.

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Then we started to see snow in a very different way than before.

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Tomography provides a microscopic X-ray view

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of how snow samples change over time.

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First I thought that must be great for everybody,

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because now people can understand snow.

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But it doesn't look like the nice, hexagonal,

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perfectly symmetric snowflakes.

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It looks, simply, strange.

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These new ways of looking at snow have enabled scientists

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to build large 3-D models of microscopic structures

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from real snow samples.

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So, this sample is from an avalanche site.

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This block is only 4mm wide.

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We see in this block the essential features.

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This big blob is refrozen snow,

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so it got warm, but only a little bit.

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It created this huge crystal,

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and that's the interface, you could say,

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between the hard upper layer and the weak layer.

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And the avalanche forms now somewhere in this weak layer.

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The avalanche forecaster needs to understand

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under which conditions does nature form such a weak layer.

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By knowing more about the process,

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then the avalanche forecasters are able to improve their methods,

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and, hopefully, forecast avalanches more precisely.

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Avalanches rarely happen by themselves,

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so precise forecasting provides essential information

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for anyone venturing into snow-covered mountains.

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For an avalanche to occur,

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you need a trigger.

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With avalanches that involve people,

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90% of the time they will have triggered the avalanche themselves.

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It's not a case of an avalanche just engulfing people.

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Two years ago on a winter's day in the Cairngorms,

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climber Barry Middleton became such a trigger.

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He was returning home with a friend from a day's climbing

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on Feith Buidhe, near the summit of Hell's Lum.

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This photograph was taken soon after his lucky escape from the avalanche.

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Does it feel a bit strange coming back and looking at the place?

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It's interesting just to see all those craggy bits

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and think that I probably could have gone tumbling over some of that.

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It doesn't bear thinking about.

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I'd certainly think more when I'm out in a winter environment,

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that's for sure, but I'm glad to be able to stand here

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and enjoy it.

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-It is a beautiful place, isn't it?

-It is.

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But, you know, the mountains, they're not out to get you,

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they're just here.

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On one hand you've got the beauty,

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on the other hand you got this risk and danger juxtaposed together.

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I'd always associate an avalanche with being under snow.

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But this was unusual because I was actually sitting on top

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of a boulder field, it was actually moving.

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You're thinking, "Oh, my God, it's an avalanche."

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Next thought is, "This can't be good."

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It quickly became apparent that I was reaching the edge of a void.

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There was no snow just before the edge, just an icy slab,

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and I knew that if I hit that icy slab

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I couldn't stop myself, I'd go flying over the edge.

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And, in a way, being out of control made it easier to be

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accepting of what was about to happen,

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because there was nothing I could do about it.

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And then, just as I was about to hit this icy slab,

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it all just very quickly slowed, and then it just stopped,

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and I must have stopped from here to that rock.

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Very lucky.

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-And then you came to see me.

-That's it.

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We thought, "Should we do the right thing and report it?"

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And you were quite white, the both of you. I do recall that.

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And it's hard to understand how two little people can actually

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create such a massive avalanche like that.

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Go to an alpine environment

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and its big slopes and you think, "Avalanche."

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You come here and there are smaller slopes, quite localised

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and you think, "No, it's not that bad."

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There were whole patches of grass in certain places,

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there didn't seem to be that much snow.

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And that is something that we have to take on board in Scotland.

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The situation with yourselves was that we had this weak layer

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and above that, we had this...it'd been windy,

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and it had this hard slab put on the top,

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so it feels really solid, but it's really just like an eggshell.

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It had been getting milder and milder,

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but it hadn't got rid of that weakness and so, really,

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everything seems OK, but bang!

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That situation is very similar to what we had

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in the winds that we've just had now,

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in that we had persistent layers.

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In the winter of 2012 to '13,

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Mark recorded 18 human-triggered avalanches like Barry's -

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fewer than the previous year, but tragically,

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two of these avalanches caused multiple fatalities

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igniting media interest which would last the duration of the winter.

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Avalanches actually are quite rare events.

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You may think that with the news of this winter that we've just had,

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that they happen frequently, but that is just not the case,

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they are rare events.

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But nonetheless, the impact of an avalanche is catastrophic.

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This is Christopher Bell,

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a 24-year-old PhD student and experienced mountaineer.

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His ideal weekend would be to run, cycle,

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a bit of a walk on the top of a mountain

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-and watch the sun come up.

-Yeah.

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Chris, we used to ask him, you know,

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when he was nine, ten, "What do you want to be when you grow up?

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"What you want to do when you grow up?" And he ALWAYS replied,

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"I want to ride my bike and count the stars."

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And that's what he did.

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On 19th January,

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Chris set out on a climbing expedition in Glencoe.

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He was accompanied by junior doctor, Una Finnegan,

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and four other friends, including a couple -

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hospital doctor Rachel Majumdar

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and PhD student Tom Chesters.

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I knew that Tom was planning a trip up there

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when he was down visiting us for Christmas.

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He was looking for places to stay,

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looking for walks to go on and suchlike.

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Yeah, they were getting quite excited about it.

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They were really looking forward to a trip up there.

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Good evening. Cold and wintry

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and, yes, we are already seeing some snow.

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The Met Office have already issued an amber, be-prepared warning

0:23:100:23:13

for some really quite heavy and frequent snow showers.

0:23:130:23:16

These showers are being driven in

0:23:170:23:19

by a strong easterly wind

0:23:190:23:21

so it will feel bitterly cold, too.

0:23:210:23:23

I think Tom loved the fact that he could get into these wild,

0:23:250:23:29

open spaces and, if he wanted to,

0:23:290:23:31

really push the boundaries a little bit.

0:23:310:23:33

The six friends had spent the day climbing and had already

0:23:340:23:37

begun their descent down the north face of Bidean Nam Bian.

0:23:370:23:41

He always aimed to get outside as often as he could

0:23:410:23:45

and as high up, because he always said,

0:23:450:23:47

"To get the best views, you've got to climb the highest mountains."

0:23:470:23:51

I won't have anybody saying that he was irresponsible

0:23:510:23:54

going up those mountains.

0:23:540:23:56

He was... Christopher didn't have an irresponsible bone in his body.

0:23:560:24:00

Christopher had done avalanche training.

0:24:010:24:04

But if it all boils down to being at the wrong place at the wrong time,

0:24:060:24:12

there's nothing anybody can do about that.

0:24:120:24:14

I came in for the usual late afternoon Saturday activity,

0:24:180:24:22

which is watching the football scores and then the BBC news.

0:24:220:24:28

A major search operation is under way tonight for three climbers

0:24:280:24:31

after an avalanche near Glencoe in the Scottish Highlands.

0:24:310:24:35

Mountain rescue teams say there are fatalities.

0:24:350:24:38

Immediately I heard that,

0:24:400:24:43

there was a kind of...chill, of fear went down my spine.

0:24:430:24:49

I straight away got on the phone to text him,

0:24:500:24:54

but, of course, there was no response.

0:24:540:24:58

This is thought to be one of Scotland's worst climbing accidents.

0:24:580:25:02

We know that it was a party of six,

0:25:020:25:04

that they had been climbing a peak known as Bidean Nam Bian.

0:25:040:25:08

They were making their way down the summit

0:25:080:25:10

and it seems that a slab of snow simply gave way.

0:25:100:25:14

They had fallen 1,000 feet

0:25:140:25:17

before being buried in up to six feet of snow.

0:25:170:25:20

About midnight, there were two doors slam outside,

0:25:230:25:26

two car doors, they were two policemen.

0:25:260:25:30

I just opened the door and said,

0:25:300:25:32

"I know what you're here for."

0:25:320:25:34

Definitely, the worst day of our lives, I guess.

0:25:380:25:43

Rescue workers found that one of the fallen climbers had survived,

0:25:490:25:53

but with very serious injuries.

0:25:530:25:56

Chris and Una, and Tom and Rachel

0:25:560:25:59

had all been pronounced dead at the scene.

0:25:590:26:01

I think I just sat in shock for a few days

0:26:030:26:06

and then you have to pull yourself together

0:26:060:26:09

and...get on with arrangements.

0:26:090:26:13

You can't believe that you're getting home with those arrangements,

0:26:150:26:18

but you just have to and...

0:26:180:26:20

it's still very strange.

0:26:200:26:22

I've now sort of had that scary thought

0:26:280:26:30

a few days after the accident

0:26:300:26:32

of being an only child now. And that's quite a scary,

0:26:320:26:37

worrying, surreal thought in many ways.

0:26:370:26:40

Cos, obviously, you think you're going to grow up

0:26:400:26:43

alongside your brother for many, many years

0:26:430:26:46

and, all of a sudden, it's just you.

0:26:460:26:49

I've still got and will always keep

0:26:530:26:55

the last Christmas present that Tom gave me,

0:26:550:26:57

which by sheer coincidence and fate was a jigsaw puzzle

0:26:570:27:02

of a Harvey's map of Fort William and Glencoe,

0:27:020:27:06

which has the actual mountain that killed Tom on it,

0:27:060:27:09

so that's something that I'll always, always keep hold of.

0:27:090:27:13

UKELELE MUSIC

0:27:130:27:15

So this is Christopher playing the ukelele or New Year's Eve.

0:27:150:27:21

And...this is him playing the background music to this video.

0:27:210:27:25

It's all his friends enjoying themselves.

0:27:290:27:32

It is sad, but...

0:27:330:27:35

..you know, they're enjoying it.

0:27:370:27:39

It's lovely.

0:27:390:27:41

Happy New Year.

0:27:440:27:45

It was fantastic.

0:27:520:27:55

I often used to go up

0:27:550:27:57

and wish I could do all the things that he could do, you know.

0:27:570:28:00

An amazing life up there, he had.

0:28:040:28:07

I struggle because he was such a good son.

0:28:230:28:28

And I have to be strong for Alison and Edward and it's hard.

0:28:280:28:35

It's difficult sometimes.

0:28:380:28:41

But we get through it and we keep strong and hopefully, you know,

0:28:410:28:47

he lives on in other people.

0:28:470:28:50

Nice lad.

0:28:530:28:55

Sad.

0:29:000:29:01

The Glencoe avalanche was the first major incident of the winter

0:29:060:29:10

and a tragic reminder that, no matter how experienced you are,

0:29:100:29:14

accidents can happen on snow-covered mountains.

0:29:140:29:18

But snow itself is not the only danger.

0:29:180:29:22

How we behave on the mountains

0:29:220:29:24

and the decisions we make there can also cause problems.

0:29:240:29:28

If someone has looked at a guide book and they've seen a climb

0:29:280:29:31

or a ski run or a particular walk that they want to do,

0:29:310:29:35

then, once they fix that, it's very, very hard for people

0:29:350:29:38

to divert from that plan.

0:29:380:29:40

The commitment to something

0:29:400:29:41

is probably one of the most common reasons

0:29:410:29:44

for people to ignore signs and to carry on regardless,

0:29:440:29:48

with sometimes serious consequences.

0:29:480:29:51

The other is the effect of other people doing things around you.

0:29:510:29:55

You know, when people are around you, you tend to think

0:29:550:29:58

that, "Oh, it must be OK. There, there."

0:29:580:30:00

You know, if I just go over here, it'll be the same.

0:30:000:30:03

You know, it might only be a few degrees of difference, but actually,

0:30:030:30:06

it might be significant in terms of avalanche hazard.

0:30:060:30:09

And this is not just for beginners, it's everybody.

0:30:090:30:13

There is evidence to show that, no matter how experienced you are,

0:30:130:30:16

how many times you've been in the mountains,

0:30:160:30:18

you're still susceptible to these human factors.

0:30:180:30:21

This is footage taken from the head cam of Thomas Scheuner,

0:30:270:30:31

a back-country skier who knows well

0:30:310:30:34

how these human factors can lead us into danger.

0:30:340:30:36

Despite having over 20 years of experience

0:30:380:30:41

going off-piste in the Swiss Alps,

0:30:410:30:44

Thomas made a near fatal mistake on the day this footage was taken.

0:30:440:30:48

Thomas and his friend were on a ski touring trip

0:30:580:31:01

through the Engelberg mountain range.

0:31:010:31:04

This was their last chance to get in some fresh powder runs

0:31:040:31:07

before heading home.

0:31:070:31:08

Some people say the worst car accidents happen

0:31:110:31:15

on the streets that you drive every day.

0:31:150:31:18

And it's a little bit the same thing

0:31:190:31:22

when you think that you really know the signs.

0:31:220:31:26

Thomas already had some indication of instability in the snow.

0:31:280:31:31

In previous runs, he'd seen cracks appear setting off small slides.

0:31:310:31:36

I stood there, on top of this face,

0:31:390:31:42

and I looked down and I saw it's really steep,

0:31:420:31:45

it's wind-affected, it's not stable.

0:31:450:31:47

Then, you wear this safety equipment,

0:31:490:31:51

like the airbag, like the beacon,

0:31:510:31:55

you feel better, you think you're invincible.

0:31:550:31:59

I tricked my mind, I tricked all that I knew

0:31:590:32:03

and I thought, "It IS very unstable, it IS very dangerous,

0:32:030:32:07

"but it's not happening to me."

0:32:070:32:10

But, of course, it happened to me.

0:32:100:32:12

I remember the moment I landed,

0:32:160:32:19

the whole face started to move.

0:32:190:32:23

I knew that it will be bad.

0:32:230:32:28

The snow on that day was very fresh,

0:32:380:32:41

very light. It's like a dust storm.

0:32:410:32:44

You don't see anything, you don't know if you're upside down.

0:32:450:32:49

It's...it's a horrible feeling.

0:32:490:32:53

Some people say, "Yeah, you have to spin on top of the avalanche."

0:32:570:33:02

You know, these forces are so strong

0:33:020:33:05

and it's like...a piece of dust in the wind, you don't,

0:33:050:33:10

you're not capable of doing anything,

0:33:100:33:12

you just wait for things to happen.

0:33:120:33:14

I knew on the bottom there will be a band of cliffs

0:33:160:33:19

and the cliffs are really high.

0:33:190:33:22

This amateur photograph

0:33:230:33:24

shows just how high.

0:33:240:33:26

But the fall was not his only concern,

0:33:280:33:31

there was also the possibility of being buried alive.

0:33:310:33:34

I just knew that I want to see light.

0:33:370:33:40

I don't want to be covered up,

0:33:400:33:42

this is the worst thing.

0:33:420:33:44

So I was always shovelling away

0:33:440:33:47

the snow that was trying to cover me up.

0:33:470:33:50

HE GROANS

0:33:510:33:55

And after a while, the slide stopped

0:33:550:33:59

and I saw light and then, I realised that I'm not breathing.

0:33:590:34:03

HE GROANS

0:34:050:34:07

My whole mouth was full of snow.

0:34:070:34:10

So first, get the snow out,

0:34:100:34:12

then start to breathe.

0:34:120:34:14

The red line shows how far

0:34:190:34:21

Thomas had been carried.

0:34:210:34:24

I heard my friend's voice and I was really...happy.

0:34:240:34:30

He dug up my legs and my body

0:34:320:34:35

and then, I really realised that something is not good with my spine.

0:34:350:34:40

Thomas had been very lucky

0:34:430:34:45

suffering only a single broken vertebra.

0:34:450:34:48

Following eight weeks wearing an aluminium support,

0:34:480:34:52

his spine completely recovered.

0:34:520:34:54

The first ski patrols came

0:34:550:34:58

and they looked up the steep face

0:34:580:35:00

and looked at me and they asked,

0:35:000:35:03

"Why are you alive?

0:35:030:35:05

"You know the day today? You have to celebrate a birthday from now on."

0:35:050:35:09

Back in Scotland,

0:35:140:35:16

off-piste skiing is thriving thanks to the recent heavy snowfalls.

0:35:160:35:20

But how do its attractions and its dangers compare with the Alps?

0:35:210:35:25

Because there are so few ski areas in Scotland

0:35:280:35:31

when you compare it to the Alps,

0:35:310:35:33

most of the good ski touring terrain needs a long approach,

0:35:330:35:36

be it on a bike, be it walking,

0:35:360:35:39

be it getting on your skis.

0:35:390:35:41

For me, that's a complete adventure where you go to the end of the road

0:35:420:35:45

and then the road runs out and then you follow a narrow track

0:35:450:35:48

and the track runs out and you keep going.

0:35:480:35:50

Blair Aitken is a ski instructor

0:35:540:35:56

who has worked in both the Alps and Scotland.

0:35:560:35:59

I sometimes feel that a lot of the off-piste skiing

0:36:060:36:09

that's done in the Alps,

0:36:090:36:11

and in particular the French Alps, where the lift system is so amazing.

0:36:110:36:14

It becomes a little bit like theme-park skiing

0:36:140:36:17

in that you can hop off a lift,

0:36:170:36:19

ski quite a steep dangerous slope relatively quickly.

0:36:190:36:23

For me, that side of skiing is far more dangerous

0:36:230:36:26

than what happens in Scotland.

0:36:260:36:28

In Scotland, there tends to be more preparation.

0:36:280:36:32

Because there has to be,

0:36:320:36:33

cos you don't know what you're going to encounter.

0:36:330:36:36

For me, it feels a bit rougher, a little bit rawer,

0:36:370:36:40

a little bit more natural out here.

0:36:400:36:42

And that makes it exciting.

0:36:430:36:45

Of course, when you're skiing in the Highlands, there are going

0:36:530:36:56

to be situations where if it all goes wrong, if a slope avalanches,

0:36:560:36:59

you're above something exposed, it drags you over a rock,

0:36:590:37:02

there's things that could go terribly wrong.

0:37:020:37:04

But you don't want to be on a mountain when it's going to do that.

0:37:060:37:08

You try your best to avoid those sort of situations.

0:37:080:37:11

I would say the risk of injury in Scotland is high.

0:37:330:37:37

The terrain that we ski, it tends to be coarse,

0:37:370:37:41

there tends to be gullies.

0:37:410:37:43

Personally, I walk away from things more often than I ski them.

0:37:430:37:46

Because I feel they're not in condition.

0:37:460:37:49

I don't step over that line

0:37:490:37:50

and, for sure, you're going to have risk takers,

0:37:500:37:52

but you're going to have risk takers in everything.

0:37:520:37:55

You don't conquer a mountain.

0:37:550:37:56

It's not a battle.

0:37:560:37:58

It's never a battle.

0:37:580:37:59

You're working with the mountain.

0:37:590:38:02

But people have been back-country skiing in Scotland for decades.

0:38:030:38:07

Some have been filming, too.

0:38:130:38:15

# Over the ground lies a mantle of white

0:38:190:38:23

# A heaven of diamonds shine down through the night

0:38:230:38:27

# Two hearts are thrillin' in spite of the chill in

0:38:270:38:32

# The weather... #

0:38:320:38:35

Chic Baxter is the 89-year-old grandfather

0:38:390:38:42

of famous Scottish skier Alain Baxter.

0:38:420:38:45

The first time I skied?

0:38:470:38:49

Oh, that was hilarious.

0:38:490:38:50

That was in the Sidlaw Hills, close to Dundee.

0:38:500:38:53

With no fancy gear, just slacks and a jerkin

0:38:530:38:58

and a pair of walking boots

0:38:580:38:59

and off we went.

0:38:590:39:01

But we got the bug.

0:39:010:39:03

We would go around Morlich or over by Ryvoan,

0:39:070:39:12

we would have a lunch with us

0:39:120:39:14

and a wee bottle of wine.

0:39:140:39:15

There were years we skied all year round.

0:39:180:39:20

We've had some heavy times with snowfalls.

0:39:220:39:25

We did have to get a helicopter to bring food into Aviemore.

0:39:250:39:30

There's one bit of film where you can see the army trucks

0:39:300:39:34

coming down the ski road and the snow is higher than the trucks.

0:39:340:39:38

I can remember having as much as 18 inches in a night here.

0:39:390:39:43

Chic's films are from a time, which many call

0:39:460:39:49

the Golden Age of Scottish Skiing,

0:39:490:39:51

when winters were long and snow was in abundance.

0:39:510:39:54

Ski resorts like Aviemore became hugely popular

0:39:550:39:58

through the '60s and '70s

0:39:580:40:00

attracting some of the best international instructors

0:40:000:40:04

as well as big-name skiers.

0:40:040:40:06

However, through the 1980s and '90s, the winters became milder.

0:40:070:40:12

Snowfall was sporadic and unpredictable.

0:40:120:40:15

Cheap flights to guaranteed snow

0:40:150:40:18

led many overseas for their winter sports.

0:40:180:40:20

The total demise of the Scottish ski scene was predicted.

0:40:200:40:25

But, in recent years, there's been a succession of colder winters,

0:40:280:40:32

including the Big Freeze of 2009 to '10

0:40:320:40:35

when a blanket of snow engulfed the entire country.

0:40:350:40:39

Transport was disrupted, schools were closed,

0:40:390:40:42

power lines failed and temperatures hit as low as minus 20 degrees.

0:40:420:40:46

It was the coldest winter for 30 years.

0:40:480:40:52

The following December was the coldest in 100 years.

0:40:520:40:56

But could this really herald a return to the harsher winters

0:40:560:40:59

seen in Chic Baxter's home movies in the midst of global warming?

0:40:590:41:03

Whilst we think that in the very longer term,

0:41:050:41:08

by the, say, 2080s, for example, we'll all have warmer winters

0:41:080:41:13

as climate change overwhelms natural climate variability,

0:41:130:41:16

in the next couple of decades,

0:41:160:41:18

there's still a lot of scope for our climate to vary naturally.

0:41:180:41:22

This could indeed lead us to have more intense

0:41:220:41:25

and more frequent cold winters,

0:41:250:41:29

more akin to how things were in the 1960s.

0:41:290:41:32

Scientists now know that our winters are shaped by many factors,

0:41:320:41:37

some beyond this world.

0:41:370:41:39

Changes on the surface of the sun, the melting of polar ice caps

0:41:390:41:44

and even storms as far afield as Indonesia can each play their part.

0:41:440:41:48

But to understand what happened in January 2013,

0:41:480:41:52

we must go high up into the stratosphere to a unique event,

0:41:520:41:57

which surprised even the Met Office.

0:41:570:41:59

There was an amazing stratospheric event

0:42:000:42:03

that went on in early January,

0:42:030:42:06

which changed everything for the rest of the winter.

0:42:060:42:09

So, the stratosphere is the layer of the atmosphere

0:42:090:42:12

that resides above the one in which the weather happens.

0:42:120:42:17

What we normally have is a powerful vortex with winds

0:42:170:42:21

going around the North Pole in excess of 150mph.

0:42:210:42:27

However, the vortex split up in early January

0:42:270:42:30

and didn't recover for the rest of the winter.

0:42:300:42:34

Changes in the stratosphere have the potential to disrupt the flow

0:42:340:42:38

of warm air from the Gulf Stream drawing in cold air from Siberia.

0:42:380:42:42

What we can see from this satellite sequence

0:42:440:42:46

is that this easterly flow developed.

0:42:460:42:49

This made it colder.

0:42:490:42:52

Every time we saw the approach of some mild air

0:42:520:42:56

to relieve the cold, snowy conditions, it was just swept aside.

0:42:560:43:01

The cold air and snowy conditions persisted into February

0:43:010:43:05

and there is nowhere in the UK that can suffer those conditions

0:43:050:43:09

more fiercely than the Cairngorms.

0:43:090:43:11

The Gorms are a kind of specific environment.

0:43:130:43:15

We're not as close to the sea as the Ben, for example, Ben Nevis,

0:43:150:43:19

and we're high, and we've got a big, flat high area,

0:43:190:43:23

which is the plateau.

0:43:230:43:25

You get this combination of pretty ferocious Arctic-type winds

0:43:250:43:28

blasting across the tops of the Cairngorms

0:43:280:43:30

and certainly in the last few years, quite a bit of snow.

0:43:300:43:33

And that does some pretty strange things sometimes.

0:43:330:43:36

John Lyall is a mountain guide and mountain rescue volunteer

0:43:580:44:01

with over 20 years' experience of winter in the Cairngorms.

0:44:010:44:05

The Cairngorms are, you know,

0:44:090:44:11

within the British Isles, are unique.

0:44:110:44:13

This massive area of high ground that holds a lot of snow.

0:44:130:44:17

There are popular, accessible parts,

0:44:170:44:20

but there are parts where you can get a long way from people.

0:44:200:44:24

Not that I'm antisocial, but that experience in wilderness

0:44:240:44:28

that you can get in some of the remote corners

0:44:280:44:30

of the Cairngorms is fantastic.

0:44:300:44:32

Throughout the winter, John leads parties into the wilderness

0:44:340:44:37

on overnight trips.

0:44:370:44:39

In such windswept environments, a tent is of little use,

0:44:390:44:43

so their shelter must be dug from the snow.

0:44:430:44:46

I always think, in Scotland we have hills in summer,

0:44:530:44:56

but they become mountains, really,

0:44:560:44:58

in winter when they're covered with snow.

0:44:580:45:00

I sometimes think of the weather conditions as a bit of a foe.

0:45:010:45:06

But the mountain and the snow, in particular,

0:45:060:45:08

I see it as an aid to your journey.

0:45:080:45:11

If you treat it well, it'll treat you similarly, in a sense.

0:45:130:45:17

Iain Cornfoot is the head of the Cairngorm Ski Patrol

0:45:220:45:26

and also volunteers in the Mountain Rescue Team alongside John Lyall.

0:45:260:45:31

The winter of 2012 to '13 was their busiest for 30 years.

0:45:310:45:35

It can be a beautiful place at times,

0:45:360:45:39

but within a very short space of time,

0:45:390:45:42

it can go pretty ballistic.

0:45:420:45:45

On 10th February, the weather DID go ballistic.

0:45:450:45:49

There was a big storm coming through

0:45:490:45:52

and, so, we decided to close down the mountain slightly earlier.

0:45:520:45:56

And just as we were doing that, a call came through from the police.

0:45:560:46:01

A group of seven climbers were returning to the ski centre

0:46:010:46:04

to escape the developing storm when they saw one of their party fall

0:46:040:46:09

through a cornice and out of sight.

0:46:090:46:11

Unable to locate their friend,

0:46:120:46:14

the remaining six immediately called the rescue services

0:46:140:46:17

who were keen to ensure everyone's immediate return to base.

0:46:170:46:21

I spoke to the rest of this party and at that point,

0:46:220:46:25

we thought they were just outside the ski area

0:46:250:46:27

on their way home from the Cairngorm plateau

0:46:270:46:29

and for them to leave there,

0:46:290:46:32

it'd only have been about half an hour

0:46:320:46:34

for them to get back to the car park.

0:46:340:46:35

Amazingly, the fallen climber hadn't been injured

0:46:350:46:39

and managed to find his way back.

0:46:390:46:42

Meanwhile, his colleagues weren't faring so well.

0:46:420:46:45

They remained on top of the plateau in worsening conditions.

0:46:450:46:50

If you're up there, in something over 100, you're crawling.

0:46:500:46:53

And it feels like the air has been sucked out of you,

0:46:530:46:57

the wind sort of blasts by you, everything becomes much harder.

0:46:570:47:01

Your hands are freezing, you can't work a compass properly

0:47:010:47:04

and the weather is just getting worse and worse.

0:47:040:47:07

You're trying to get to a fixed point

0:47:070:47:09

where you can understand exactly where you are,

0:47:090:47:11

you know, there are cliffs around that you could get wrong.

0:47:110:47:14

It's scary.

0:47:140:47:16

It's a really quite, quite belittling place to be when it's like that.

0:47:160:47:20

I got a call to say the rest of the party

0:47:230:47:26

hadn't made it back to the car park and...

0:47:260:47:31

having known what the conditions were like when we left,

0:47:310:47:34

that was very concerning.

0:47:340:47:37

As the evening progressed,

0:47:370:47:40

certainly, myself and the colleagues in the team were getting

0:47:400:47:44

more and more concerned that we'd heard nothing from this party

0:47:440:47:49

and pretty much forced the issue that this needed to become more formal.

0:47:490:47:55

Al Gilmour led a team up into the storm.

0:47:550:47:58

If you were choosing to go out in that as a pastime on your day off,

0:47:580:48:03

then I think it would feel pretty horrendous.

0:48:030:48:06

But I think when you're not given an option in the sense that

0:48:060:48:10

there is a group of people, there's an individual,

0:48:100:48:13

you know he's suffering and you know time is not on their side

0:48:130:48:17

and if there is anything you can do to try and help that,

0:48:170:48:20

then some of those conditions never quite seem as harsh.

0:48:200:48:24

Despite their best efforts,

0:48:240:48:27

the mission was becoming more and more dangerous for the rescue team.

0:48:270:48:31

One of my big concerns wasn't just the party that were late,

0:48:310:48:36

but it was also we could have lost one of us.

0:48:360:48:39

Winds in excess of 70mph ensured a chill factor of minus 30.

0:48:390:48:44

But, after hours on the mountain,

0:48:440:48:47

the six climbers remained missing.

0:48:470:48:49

Is the plan to head back now?

0:48:510:48:53

Well, I think, I'm just going to double-check with control,

0:48:530:48:55

but it's going to take a pretty amazing suggestion

0:48:550:48:58

for us to decide to go to any other places tonight, I think.

0:48:580:49:02

'So do you think there's any sense'

0:49:030:49:06

in going on to spot 1099

0:49:060:49:11

in your position?

0:49:110:49:13

I don't, truthfully.

0:49:150:49:18

So, if we're good to go, gang, let's get going, eh?

0:49:180:49:21

It's chilly up here.

0:49:210:49:23

'That was difficult going home at five o'clock in the morning,

0:49:230:49:26

'trying to get a couple of hours' sleep,'

0:49:260:49:28

knowing that they hadn't been found

0:49:280:49:30

and you were the last person that spoke to them.

0:49:300:49:33

It was difficult.

0:49:350:49:37

I must admit, on the hill that night, the option in my head was

0:49:370:49:41

they've either managed to stay together as a group

0:49:410:49:43

or we're going to be faced with a terrible situation.

0:49:430:49:48

The next morning, after only a few hours' sleep,

0:49:520:49:55

the search was intensified.

0:49:550:49:57

The only way of searching the area in poor conditions

0:49:570:50:00

is with a large number of people.

0:50:000:50:02

I think it ended up about seven different mountain rescue teams,

0:50:020:50:06

it must have been about 150 people on the ground,

0:50:060:50:10

two different aircraft.

0:50:100:50:12

Flying rescue helicopters in these environments at low altitudes

0:50:120:50:16

requires the most experienced pilots.

0:50:160:50:18

The conditions in the mountains of Scotland

0:50:210:50:24

are probably the most extreme conditions you're likely to find

0:50:240:50:27

a search rescue helicopter in in the UK.

0:50:270:50:29

When it comes to winter, that weather just becomes more extreme.

0:50:290:50:33

Blizzards, icing clouds, subzero,

0:50:330:50:37

a lot of strong winds which can force the helicopter into the land.

0:50:370:50:41

There's always that respect there in the back of your mind

0:50:410:50:44

for what the mountains can do.

0:50:440:50:46

On the morning of February 11th, the RAF Search And Rescue Team set out

0:50:470:50:52

to help find the missing climbers who, if still alive,

0:50:520:50:56

had now suffered the poor weather conditions

0:50:560:50:58

throughout the entire night.

0:50:580:51:00

As midday approached, they received a crucial lead from a ground team

0:51:010:51:05

far from the original search area.

0:51:050:51:08

It was the Braemar Mountain Rescue guys,

0:51:080:51:11

they said they'd seen footprints heading up to a certain area

0:51:110:51:14

than had not been searched.

0:51:140:51:15

So we flew up to this area, and there were the missing walkers.

0:51:150:51:20

They'd travelled a huge distance overnight.

0:51:210:51:24

That was probably a good thing, just keeping moving.

0:51:240:51:29

When we picked them up, one of them just kept throwing his arms

0:51:290:51:32

around me, he just kept saying, "Thank you."

0:51:320:51:34

Another guy just couldn't speak.

0:51:340:51:36

So he was quite worrying,

0:51:360:51:38

we thought there might be something wrong with him,

0:51:380:51:40

but he was just so emotionally and physically drained,

0:51:400:51:43

he just couldn't speak.

0:51:430:51:44

Got them on board, go them warm and then took them off

0:51:460:51:49

to the mountain rescue base.

0:51:490:51:51

How are you feeling, all right? Nice and steady. Nice and steady.

0:51:510:51:54

When the guys come clattering in,

0:51:540:51:56

all covered in snow with some bedraggled individual

0:51:560:51:59

who thought that they were having a wee chat with the Grim Reaper

0:51:590:52:03

and now, all of a sudden, they're in a warm base,

0:52:030:52:06

realising they've got quite a bit more of a future

0:52:060:52:10

than they thought they had,

0:52:100:52:12

they're very happy teddies.

0:52:120:52:14

And, yeah, it's nice to be able to do that, isn't it?

0:52:140:52:18

The party that night were determined not to give up, I would imagine.

0:52:180:52:22

A huge battle with a very small amount of food.

0:52:220:52:26

They must have been cold, they must have been wet.

0:52:260:52:29

It's amazing what we can put up with if our brains let us,

0:52:290:52:32

and if we're determined enough.

0:52:320:52:34

And that wee party seemed to be determined enough.

0:52:340:52:37

The party had walked for over 26 hours

0:52:400:52:42

through some of the worst conditions imaginable.

0:52:420:52:45

But only five had been picked up.

0:52:450:52:48

One last member remained unaccounted for.

0:52:480:52:50

It was only at that point that we started to get some radio comms

0:52:520:52:55

that another member of the party who'd become separated

0:52:550:53:00

had also been found.

0:53:000:53:03

The gentleman that died

0:53:070:53:11

had become separated quite early on in the day,

0:53:110:53:16

just after I spoke to them.

0:53:160:53:18

I think they got confused

0:53:180:53:22

and didn't know quite where they were and...

0:53:220:53:25

..they were trying to make their way off the mountain

0:53:260:53:29

and he slipped and fell.

0:53:290:53:30

On a day-to-day basis,

0:53:340:53:36

certainly, I think the search and rescue force will see death

0:53:360:53:39

and serious injury,

0:53:390:53:41

and there is an element of professional detachment from that.

0:53:410:53:45

If we didn't do that, I think we wouldn't be very effective.

0:53:450:53:49

It doesn't mean that it doesn't touch the heart from time to time.

0:53:500:53:53

Certainly, the way I look at it

0:54:040:54:05

and the way the guys in the team look at it is that's not a body,

0:54:050:54:09

that's somebody's relative, somebody's loved one.

0:54:090:54:12

You bring them back to their family or to people that care about them

0:54:120:54:15

and that can be quite a good outcome as well.

0:54:150:54:20

You're bringing folk back for folk.

0:54:200:54:22

Graham Connell had been

0:54:250:54:27

the most experienced mountaineer in the party.

0:54:270:54:29

Since this happened,

0:54:310:54:33

me and the family have been quite a few times to Aviemore

0:54:330:54:36

and to the Cairngorms,

0:54:360:54:37

and we've obviously been to the site where he fell,

0:54:370:54:40

and we've walked and we've climbed the exact same route he did

0:54:400:54:43

and seeing the terrain and seeing how far he actually fell

0:54:430:54:46

and how sheer the cliff that he fell down was,

0:54:460:54:49

there's no way anybody could have gone after him at all.

0:54:490:54:51

They'd be putting their own life at risk and that has got to be the key,

0:54:510:54:55

they've got to survive themselves.

0:54:550:54:56

And, to be honest, they did well to survive.

0:54:560:54:59

He had a brilliant sense of humour.

0:54:590:55:02

He seemed to have an inordinate ability

0:55:020:55:05

to put up with suffering.

0:55:050:55:07

If it was a long day and his feet were hurting,

0:55:070:55:09

and he was wet and he was soaking cold,

0:55:090:55:11

and he'd still have a grin on his face at the end of the day.

0:55:110:55:14

I'm really going to miss that. He was just such a likeable chap.

0:55:140:55:19

I walked more miles with him than I've walked with anybody else.

0:55:190:55:22

There are people who are experienced who have mishaps.

0:55:270:55:31

There are people who are in their first-ever day out in the mountains

0:55:310:55:34

and the...you know, one is not worse than the other, I don't think.

0:55:340:55:38

I think it's just, you know, people have misfortune, things happen.

0:55:380:55:42

It's not just a person that dies in the hill,

0:55:460:55:48

there's family that's left behind.

0:55:480:55:50

Some relatives, friends maybe weren't mountaineers

0:55:500:55:54

and don't understand the passion that drove the person to do that

0:55:540:55:57

and that they were doing what they loved doing.

0:55:570:56:00

PIANO MUSIC

0:56:140:56:16

I wouldn't have wanted to change anything for him.

0:56:190:56:22

Because he was living, he truly was living in a place that he loved

0:56:220:56:29

and he died there with people that he loved.

0:56:290:56:33

But it's true, it's true, yeah.

0:56:390:56:45

If you'd have asked them,

0:56:480:56:51

would they do it all again, yeah, of course they would, you know.

0:56:510:56:54

If they'd just had a lucky escape,

0:56:540:56:58

they'd have been back on the mountain.

0:56:580:57:00

The Scottish Mountains are Britain's biggest playground,

0:57:190:57:23

and while the overwhelming majority of adventurers

0:57:230:57:26

return without mishap,

0:57:260:57:28

playing here does carry some risk, especially in winter.

0:57:280:57:32

We have to be alert to everything all the time.

0:57:330:57:38

The most important thing is gathering information

0:57:380:57:40

before you set out on your journey.

0:57:400:57:43

Each winter, lessons of survival can be learned as scientists

0:57:430:57:47

unravel the mechanics of avalanches on the mountainside

0:57:470:57:51

and demystify snow crystals under the microscope and scanner.

0:57:510:57:55

Scotland will face many more winters like the winter of 2012 to '13.

0:57:580:58:04

They will transform our mountains

0:58:040:58:06

into sites of immense beauty and wonder.

0:58:060:58:09

But to enjoy these mountains safely and the great rewards they offer,

0:58:090:58:13

we must learn to understand them.

0:58:130:58:16

That's it, finished.

0:58:230:58:25

Look at that!

0:58:310:58:33

It's wonderful.

0:58:330:58:34

WOMAN CHUCKLES

0:58:350:58:37

It just gets better and better.

0:58:370:58:39

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