Pennod 1 100 Lle


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-Welcome to the series 100 Lle...

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-..based on Wales - The 100 Places

-To See Before You Die...

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-..a book by John Davies

-and Marian Delyth.

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-The 100 places we'll visit

-are remarkable...

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-..because they're the work of man

-rather than nature.

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-This week, I'll be on Anglesey...

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-..to enjoy

-some of the island's wonders.

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-I'll then see Bangor through the

-eyes of photographer, Marian Delyth.

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-We'll view Telford

-and Stephenson's work...

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-..and explore

-Anglesey's chambered tombs.

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-John Davies joins me in Beaumaris

-and here, on Parys Mountain.

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-Wales - 100 Places To See

-Before You Die...

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-..won the 2010

-Welsh Book of the Year.

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-It's a personal volume and, assisted

-by John Davies and Marian Delyth...

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-..this series aims to bring

-their vision to life on television.

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-You've researched

-the history of Welsh industry.

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-Tell us about Parys Mountain.

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-Yes, it's Wales's most dramatic

-industrial landscape.

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-South-east Wales was industrialized

-far more intensely than Anglesey.

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-It's strange that industry left

-its most dramatic remains here...

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-..on the northern edge of Anglesey.

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-The colours of the rocks

-and the soil are very stunning.

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-In respect of beauty and drama,

-Parys Mountain is totally unique.

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-From what I can gather, Roland Puw

-discovered the rich vein...

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-..on the 2nd of March, 1768.

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-This vein of copper

-generated a 7 million profit.

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-That was a huge sum of money

-in the 18th century.

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-Roland Puw was rewarded

-with a bottle of whisky...

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-..and a rent-free cottage for life.

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-Where did the copper go,

-when it left here?

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-It went to Amlwch which explains

-why there was a harbour there.

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-Amlwch was half the size of New York

-in the late 18th century!

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-The ore was broken into small pieces

-to extract the sulphur.

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-That explains the colour

-of the rock and the soil.

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-They mined copper sulphate.

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-I'd urge anyone to visit

-Parys Mountain and Amlwch.

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-They're among the most interesting

-places in the whole of Wales.

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-The work on Parys Mountain

-was very hard...

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-..and the women's task was to crush

-chunks of rock into gravel.

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-The Copper Ladies are still

-part of the folklore of the area.

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-How many people worked

-in the copper mine at its peak?

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-It was in the thousands.

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-Most of them lived in Amlwch.

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-The economy hadn't developed

-to maintain that sort of activity.

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-There wasn't enough cash

-in circulation, for example.

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-Thomas Williams,

-or Twm Chwarae Teg...

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-..minted Anglesey Pennies

-with copper from here.

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-The coins were essential

-to maintain the economy.

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-He minted around 12 million

-Anglesey Pennies.

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-They're now collectors' items.

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-The Bank of England removed them

-from circulation in 1821.

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-For the first 20 years

-of the 19th century...

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-..the people of Anglesey

-used their own currency.

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-I take it this crater was created

-when the work was at its peak.

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-Yes, it was created in the late 18th

-century and into the 19th century.

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-That's when they used gunpowder

-to blast the rock.

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-This is a steep cavern...

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-..but the mine actually went

-1,000 feet below the surface.

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-The shafts and the tunnels

-bore deep into the earth.

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-The location is

-a remarkably stunning site.

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-Well, I've seen

-the exterior of this mine.

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-I'm now venturing below the surface

-with the Parys Underground Group.

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-OK, boys?

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-It's cramped here.

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-There are over 20km of tunnels

-below Parys Mountain...

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-..most of which are now flooded.

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-Conditions were tough.

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-Men had to buy their own tools -

-gear such as candles and explosives.

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-They were often in debt to managers.

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-We continue our descent.

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-We hope to reach a chamber where

-the tunnel opens out quite soon.

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-These tunnels are very narrow.

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-We've descended around 60 feet

-to an open chamber.

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-This is known

-as the Pisanite Chamber.

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-This is the pisanite.

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-Pisanite is iron sulphate crystals

-which contains copper.

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-It grows out of the rock.

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-Isn't it wonderful?

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-This is amazing.

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-Above my head is a shaft...

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-..which was chiselled into the rock

-in the early Bronze Age.

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-It was created using fire and rocks.

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-They warmed the rock, then struck it

-until pieces of rock fell away.

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-The piece of wood you see here

-is 4,000 years old.

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-Isn't that incredible?

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-Parys Mountain is one

-of the rare sites in the world...

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-..where you'll find evidence

-of Bronze Age and Roman mining.

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-The wonders of Wales can be seen

-below and above the ground.

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-The bridges across the Menai Strait.

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-Both were built in the first half

-of the 19th century.

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-First came Thomas Telford's bridge,

-in 1826...

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-..followed by Stephenson's

-Britannia Bridge, in 1850.

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-Both were built to create better

-access from London to Ireland.

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-We tend to take Menai Bridge

-for granted.

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-In 1826, Telford's feat

-of engineering was remarkable.

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-At the time, this was the longest

-suspension bridge in the world.

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-People flocked here to see it...

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-..like they flocked to Paris

-to see the Eiffel Tower.

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-Thomas Telford was acclaimed

-for several projects.

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-He built a road from London

-to Holyhead, through Snowdonia...

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-..and he also built this bridge

-across the Menai Strait.

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-It's 580 feet, or 177 metres long.

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-The bridge also allowed ships

-with masts of up to 100 feet...

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-..to pass safely beneath it.

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-Britannia Bridge carried trains

-across the Strait 25 years later.

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-This was a revolutionary design.

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-A tower was built

-in the middle of the Strait...

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-..and tubes, with no support,

-carried the weight of trains...

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-..from one tower to the next.

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-The structure above my head

-was constructed...

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-..when the bridge was redesigned

-after being badly damaged by fire.

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-That happened in the 1960s.

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-It carries both trains and cars

-nowadays and the tubes have gone.

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-This is the only section

-of the old tubes which has survived.

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-This is one section of the long

-tubes which supported the weight...

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-..when trains moved along the rails

-between the towers across the water.

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-This old structure

-needed a lot of maintenance.

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-That's why

-these channels were created.

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-Engineers went on their backs

-on a type of skateboard...

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-..to make sure all the rivets

-were still tight.

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-The history of the bridges

-and the men who built them...

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-..ends on an ironic note.

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-Just as their bridges

-lie cheek by jowl...

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-..Telford and Stephenson are buried

-cheek by jowl in Westminster Abbey.

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-We'll see many of the locations...

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-..in Wales - 100 Places To See

-Before You Die...

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-..through the eyes of photographer,

-Marian Delyth.

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-Marian took the photographs

-and she designed the book.

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-This week, we'll take a look

-at the city of Bangor.

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-I accepted the invitation

-to photograph 100 places...

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-..as chosen by John Davies.

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-The brief wasn't restrictive...

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-..in the sense I had to photograph

-specific details.

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-I simply took the locations

-as my starting point.

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-There's a variety of images

-in the book.

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-Some of them serve purely

-as a pictorial documentary.

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-Others include a personal element

-and my reaction to the locations.

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-I tried to capture

-the essence of the 100 places...

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-..and I tried to ensure

-the images complemented the text...

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-..to create an item which encouraged

-people to look at their heritage.

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-We hope to inspire people

-to find out more about these places.

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-Without being disparaging,

-the images on the screen...

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-..look like postcards from Bangor.

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-Yes, and that was my dilemma.

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-Should I choose traditional

-photographs?

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-Though popular, they don't inspire

-me but they are functional.

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-They give you an idea

-of the main sights of Bangor...

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-..for those who haven't been there.

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-That element didn't excite me.

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-I remember walking down

-Siliwen Road...

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-..and suddenly,

-the pier appeared through the trees.

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-It was the starting point

-for my journey...

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-..when I photographed that area.

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-These photographs of Bangor pier

-are far more personal...

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-..but they're not included

-in the book.

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-Personally, I like images

-which include reflections...

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-..or a strong graphic element.

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-But they may not be suitable

-for a project such as this.

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-For example, I took some shots

-through the glass on the pier.

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-For me, they convey the essence of

-Bangor where students walk around.

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-I took one photo of the pier

-and its rounded little shelter.

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-There's a hint of colour

-in that photograph...

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-..and that's the beauty

-of that photograph, for me.

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-It's a subdued photograph

-which contains a flash of red...

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-..and a hint of blue.

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-This photograph

-is a snapshot of life.

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-When I'd photographed the pier...

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-..I looked across, towards Anglesey.

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-That's when I realized...

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-..that the image I'd like

-to capture...

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-..was a photograph of Bangor

-in midwinter.

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-There's snow on the mountains.

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-The sky isn't blue.

-It's stormy, in fact.

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-There's a special feel

-to the place...

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-..so that's the photograph we used

-as the main shot of Bangor.

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-Our journey goes from Barclodiad

-y Gawres to Bryncelli Ddu...

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-..viewing several places in between,

-including a memorial to a lost king.

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-A Welsh saying says life is savage

-but the grave is snug.

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-It's far more snug in here today

-than it is outside.

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-Barclodiad y Gawres was built

-as a public tomb for local people.

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-It was created

-between 3000 and 2500 years BC.

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-The Egyptians

-were building the Pyramids...

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-..and this is what the Welsh built.

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-When this place was examined

-in the 20th century...

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-..the cremated remains

-of two humans was found.

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-There's more than ashes

-to Barclodiad y Gawres.

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-The carvings within this chamber

-are truly remarkable.

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-As this place is 5,000 years old...

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-..you could argue that this was

-Wales's first art gallery.

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-From Barclodiad y Gawres,

-we move on to Aberffraw.

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-This seaside village...

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-..was once the seat

-of the Kings of Gwynedd.

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-The only medieval remains here

-can be found in St Beuno's Church.

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-In Wales - 100 Places To See

-Before You Die, John Davies says...

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-..the remains of the court

-of Llywelyn may lie on this hill.

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-Next, we move on to another church.

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-This is St Cadwaladr's Church,

-a mile south of Aberffraw.

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-According to Brut Y Tywysogion...

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-..Cadwaladr was the last ruler

-of the Britons.

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-His death opened the door

-to the English.

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-That's not

-the most important feature...

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-..of this lovely,

-12th century church.

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-This is a memorial to Cadfan,

-Cadwaladr's grandfather.

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-I'll read the Latin inscription

-from the book.

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-Catamanus Rex sapientissimus

-opinatissimus omnium regum.

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-"Cadfan, the wisest

-and most illustrious of all kings".

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-The stone bears the curly letters...

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-..favoured by centres of learning in

-mainland Europe in the 7th century.

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-That in itself proves how important

-King Cadwaladr was...

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-..but that's all we know about him.

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-It's a mystery.

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-Brycelli Ddu is one of the best of

-Anglesey's twenty Neolithic sites.

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-There was a stone circle here

-originally.

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-This chamber was then built.

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-The dome was added in the 1950s.

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-Light shines through the passage

-and into the chamber at sunrise...

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-..only on one day of the year.

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-That day is the summer solstice,

-the longest day of the year.

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-It proves that the chamber

-has astrological significance...

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-..just like Stonehenge.

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-Few Welsh places have French names.

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-That's true.

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-Beaupre, in the Vale of Glamorgan,

-is another example.

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-Beaumaris is the only Welsh town

-to carry a French name.

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-Beau Maris means beautiful marsh.

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-It was built as a new town...

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-..in the wake of the losses suffered

-by Llywelyn the Great.

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-When he died, there was a threat

-of a Welsh revolt.

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-The most important sea port

-in the kingdom of Gwynedd...

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-..was Llanfaes,

-which is very close to Beaumaris.

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-They didn't want Llanfaes

-to compete with Beaumaris...

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-..so they evicted the residents

-and created a new village for them.

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-That village was Newborough,

-on the other side of Anglesey.

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-They built this castle, then a town,

-market and port sprung up here...

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-..but it was never meant

-to be a hub of Welshness.

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-There has hardly been

-a Welsh influence here...

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-..compared with Caernarfon.

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-The coffin of Joan,

-wife of Llywelyn the Great...

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-..lies in the parish church

-of Beaumaris.

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-Apparently,

-before it was moved here...

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-..it was used as a cattle trough.

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-Beaumaris Castle was the last and

-largest of the castles of Edward I.

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-Built in 1295, it was designed by

-the architect, James of St George.

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-It was never completed but it's

-one of the best castles in Britain.

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-Standing here, on the internal wall,

-we can see its strategic importance.

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-Yes, this castle faces the northern

-mouth of the Menai Strait.

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-Having a sturdy fortress here

-strengthened the king's position.

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-The path which led into Anglesey

-crossed the estuary, over there.

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-People could cross the estuary

-on horseback.

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-The water is shallow

-when the tide's out...

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-..but you need a boat in the middle.

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-This was the pathway into Anglesey

-from Abergwyngregyn...

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-..which was

-Llywelyn's favourite home.

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-You could access Anglesey from here.

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-That's why this area

-had to be defended.

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-The king wanted to build something

-which told the defeated Welsh...

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-..that his resources knew no bounds.

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-It's a statement rather than

-a fortress, in some respects.

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-It was Edward I's atomic bomb!

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-It was Edward I's atomic bomb!

-

-Yes, I suppose so.

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-You don't intend to use it

-but everyone knows you possess it.

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-That's the real deterrent.

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-What about the castle layout?

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-It isn't similar to Caernarfon

-or Conwy.

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-No, it's a different type of castle.

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-The concentric castle was designed

-in the 14th century.

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-The Crusaders of the Middle East

-first built concentric castles.

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-Krak des Chevaliers, which is now in

-Syria and which was built in 1250...

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-..is considered to be the prototype.

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-A concentric castle

-is a castle within a castle.

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-In effect, a castle

-which has two layers.

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-The walls of the inner ward are

-higher than those of the outer ward.

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-You could shoot arrows

-over the outer wall.

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-You can see the castle's reflection

-in the moat around the perimeter.

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-It's perfect.

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-Its symmetry

-makes Beaumaris Castle a real gem.

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-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

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