Pennod 2 100 Lle


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-This week, we visit Gwent

-to see more Welsh wonders.

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-We'll marvel at Tintern Abbey

-and Britain's oldest stone castle.

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-We'll see the Severn bridges

-through the eyes of Marian Delyth.

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-John Davies joins us on a Roman wall

-and our odyssey ends in Trellech.

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-Welcome to 100 Lle,

-a series based on the book...

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-..Wales: The 100 Places To See

-Before You Die.

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-The best view of Chepstow Castle

-is across the river in England.

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-My journey begins near the Wye

-with author John Davies.

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-The most distinctive of Chepstow's

-sights is its Norman castle.

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-Here we are in Chepstow.

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-Why did you include it in your book?

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-What makes Chepstow so special?

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-Chepstow is where the Normans

-first accessed Wales.

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-As a result, it has Wales's earliest

-Benedictine priory.

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-The first stone castle in Wales

-was also built in Chepstow.

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-It also has later features

-such as the port on the River Wye...

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-..and the bridge over there.

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-John Rennie built that bridge

-across the river in 1816.

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-It's one of the finest iron bridges

-in the whole of Britain.

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-Chepstow means market place.

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-The town's Welsh name is Cas-gwent,

-which means the castle of Gwent.

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-The Welsh-speakers

-focused on Norman might...

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-..and the non-Welsh speakers

-were impressed by its shops!

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-That shows two very different takes

-on the town.

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-Unlike Caernarfon Castle,

-which was built during one period...

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-..Chepstow Castle

-was built over 500 years...

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-..between 1097 and Cromwell's time.

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-The history of these old gates

-is here for all to see, John.

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-Yes, and they're very interesting.

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-They stood as the castle gates

-until as recently as 1962.

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-They decided to fit modern doors,

-so they had these dated.

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-These doors have been dated

-to around 1197.

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-That makes them the oldest castle

-doors in the whole of Europe.

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-That in itself gives Chepstow Castle

-a very elevated status.

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-It's incredible to think

-that they were in daily use...

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-..for centuries, up until 1962.

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-This is one of the nation's

-most treasured relics.

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-As well as the doors, Britain's

-oldest Norman round towers are here.

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-The towers were built

-in the 12th century.

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-They were easier to defend

-than square towers...

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-..which could be breached

-from the outside.

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-This is the Great Tower

-of Chepstow Castle.

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-Is this the oldest part

-of the castle?

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-This is the oldest stone castle

-in Britain.

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-It was built within a decade or two

-of the 1066 conquest.

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-It bears witness

-to the Normans' determination...

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-..to destroy

-the ancient Welsh kingdoms.

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-Chepstow was the chief port

-of the old kingdom of Gwent.

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-The Normans chose to lay down

-a marker of their authority here.

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-They did so

-on an absolutely massive scale.

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-The Great Keep is a copy of the keep

-at Falaise in Normandy...

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-..the birthplace

-of William the Conqueror.

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-It's Romanesque, but with

-later additions on the top.

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-Those pointed arches

-are more recent...

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-..than the traditional rounded

-Norman arches further down.

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-The traditional Romanesque shapes

-give it a real robustness.

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-This is a symbol of power.

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-The stone is a very interesting

-collection of colours.

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-Yes, they used

-several different types of stone.

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-The Great Tower was constructed

-from yellow sandstone.

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-It came from the Portskewett area.

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-You can cut yellow sandstone

-into square or rectangular blocks.

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-They also used red sandstone

-in some parts of the castle.

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-There are new pieces too.

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-Yes. CADW has carefully inserted

-a few new stones.

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-They're so new, you could swear

-they had just come from B&Q!

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-In Wales: The 100 Places To See

-Before You Die...

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-..John Davies

-mentions St Mary's Church, Chepstow.

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-It was built on the site

-of an old Benedictine priory.

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-This is the earliest example

-of Romanesque architecture in Wales.

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-Another church with an interesting

-history lies close to Chepstow.

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-Mathern, Merthyr Tewdrig in Welsh,

-is five miles from Chepstow.

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-Who was Tewdrig?

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-First and foremost, he was a king

-who ruled Glamorgan and Gwent.

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-Tewdrig took on the Saxons

-at Tintern in AD 600...

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-..and beat them, as it happens.

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-He was wounded during the battle...

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-..and died from his injuries

-three days later.

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-He was then buried here,

-at St Mary's Church.

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-According to John Davies...

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-..if it weren't for Tewdrig's

-triumph against the Saxons...

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-..there would be no Gwent

-and Glamorgan...

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-..and without those,

-there would be no Wales.

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-The story doesn't end there.

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-When they repaired

-the church floor in 1881...

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-..they found Tewdrig's remains

-inside the church.

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-Tewdrig's remains were then

-reinterred here under the radiator.

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-The religious theme continues,

-as does my journey.

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-I head up the Wye Valley to one

-of Britain's most splendid abbeys.

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-This is Tintern Abbey, which was

-built in the early 12th century.

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-It's one of 15 Cistercian abbeys

-in Wales.

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-Cistercians usually built

-plain abbeys in remote areas.

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-That's not true of this abbey,

-which is on the border with England.

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-Most of Wales's abbeys received

-the patronage of Welsh princes.

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-Tintern, the wealthiest of them,

-was dependent upon Marcher Lords...

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-..who held power in this area.

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-Tintern is still here,

-largely unscathed.

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-It lost its roof

-in the 16th century...

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-..but it stands proudly

-in this glorious landscape.

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-The west gable was completed

-at the turn of the 13th century.

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-This was the main entrance.

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-There's a hint of a past porch

-above the doors...

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-..but people

-entered the building here.

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-Much of the intricate work

-above the doors is intact.

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-Above the central post,

-which divides the two doors...

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-..there's an oval recess...

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-..in which there may have been

-a statue of Mary.

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-What a sight!

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-We tend to think of churches

-as dark buildings...

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-..but the Cistercians placed

-great emphasis on natural light.

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-To that end, the internal walls

-of this building were limewashed...

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-..and there was a red pattern

-on the walls.

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-To magnify that natural light...

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-..the floor was covered

-with glossy tiles.

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-There was a church

-within a church here.

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-This was the public area.

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-The public was denied access

-past this section.

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-There were walls across here,

-between the pillars on both sides.

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-The public wasn't actually allowed

-into the main body of the church.

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-There was an ornate screen here,

-18 feet high, called the pulpitum.

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-This pulpitum was an unusual feature

-in a Cistercian abbey.

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-It was destroyed by Victorians...

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-..who wanted to create an impression

-of one vast, open space.

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-If the intention

-was to build an austere abbey...

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-..they lost the plot!

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-It's no Las Vegas,

-but it's still ostentatious.

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-The fun ended with the Dissolution

-of the Monasteries in 1536.

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-The lead was stolen from the roof,

-leaving these magnificent ruins...

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-..which are well worth a visit.

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-100 Lle is based on the book Wales:

-100 Places To See Before You Die.

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-During this series,

-we'll see several locations...

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-..through the eyes

-of photographer Marian Delyth.

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-This week, we look at the bridges

-over the River Severn.

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-When I go to these locations,

-something unexpected often happens.

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-Suddenly, I saw a boat coming

-from the far side of the river.

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-I waited for a while

-and I took several shots of it.

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-Suddenly, I reached the point

-where there was a wave...

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-..but you couldn't see the boat.

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-It looks like a mysterious wave.

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-It gives this picture

-a special mood.

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-It's a special moment

-within the photographic session.

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-This is the old bridge, of course,

-so I didn't stay there long.

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-I then headed to Severn Beach.

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-The sun was really bright

-on that day.

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-The heat generated by the sun

-created a haze.

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-I like the effect...

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-..even though you can't see

-the bridge in great detail.

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-It's like an Impressionist painting.

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-This is the photograph

-used above the title in the book.

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-As is the wont of photographers...

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-..I chose the most interesting part

-of the photograph.

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-I was then worried that it was

-too light to use above the title.

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-I deepened the colours

-a little bit.

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-What about the main picture?

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-You have one for the title...

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-..but how did you select

-the other picture?

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-I like these because they add

-a human element to the photograph.

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-They're not abstract shots,

-showing the bridge's architecture.

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-It's almost an echo of the bridge

-in the background, isn't it?

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-Yes, there's a certain balance

-about the photograph.

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-We're looking across at Wales,

-of course.

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-There's a symbolism about it

-and a real sense of tranquillity.

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-I'm astonished at these walls.

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-I never knew of their existence.

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-You should have come to Caerwent

-when you were a child.

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-It's one of the wonders of Wales.

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-Around 3,000 people lived here

-in the early fourth century.

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-There wasn't a larger town

-than this in Wales...

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-..for at least a thousand years

-after that point.

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-This was Wales's first town...

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-..and the walls are proof

-of the need to defend it.

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-These are the best

-Roman town walls in Europe...

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-..because they're so complete.

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-They were probably built

-around AD 370.

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-This town was thriving

-at that point in time.

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-Considering so many people

-lived here at such an early time...

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-..something must have happened

-to cause it not to develop...

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-..like Chester, Winchester

-and the other great Roman towns.

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-Archaeologists can dig

-almost every inch of this land.

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-In Chester,

-there are houses upon houses...

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-..but these are open fields.

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-There were 20 insulae,

-or rectangular plots, here.

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-Around 15 of them

-have now been excavated...

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-..but you couldn't do that

-in Winchester or Gloucester...

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-..because they're under buildings

-erected by later generations.

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-That isn't true here.

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-We know more about it than any other

-Roman town in western Europe.

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-What is there to see

-within these walls, John?

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-There would be a lot to see here

-2,000 years ago.

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-When excavations started here

-in the late 19th century...

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-..they tended to date the remains

-and take away any objects found...

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-..then replace the soil.

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-In more recent times,

-they've exposed the foundations...

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-..to make them visible to people.

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-At first glance, the wonders

-of Caerwent aren't striking...

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-..but as you walk

-around the remains...

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-..you can imagine life within

-the basilica, the heart of the city.

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-You can also imagine people

-worshipping within the Roman temple.

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-We're at St Stephen

-and St Tathan church in Caerwent...

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-..to disprove a claim made by a town

-that's a hundred miles away.

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-That's amazing!

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-I'm always angry

-when I see signs in Carmarthen...

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-..claiming it to be

-the oldest town in Wales.

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-It's supposition that Carmarthen

-was a town 2,000 years ago.

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-There's evidence that Caerwent

-was a town 2,000 years ago.

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-This is irrefutable evidence...

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-..that this was the capital

-of the land of Silures.

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-It's a memorial to Paulinus,

-the Governor of Britannia Secunda.

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-Inscribed here is...

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-..ex decreto ordinis

-republica civitas Silurum.

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-By order of the republic

-of the land of the Silures.

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-This is irrefutable evidence...

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-..of the status of Caerwent

-and of the Silures.

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-Given that it was erected

-during the time of Paulinus...

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-..about what period are we talking?

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-Paulinus was the legate

-of Legio Secunda Augusta...

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-..the legion stationed at Caerleon

-in AD 220.

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-This stone belongs to the first half

-of the third century.

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-The style is added proof of that.

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-This is the village of Trellech,

-or Trelleck or Trelech.

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-There are 37 variations

-on the name of this village.

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-As it happens, there's also

-a variety of things to see here.

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-We're here to see

-this magnificent sundial.

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-It's amazing what you can discover

-in the hidden corners of Wales.

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-We're not here to look

-at the sundial itself...

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-..but at the plinth

-beneath the dial.

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-The features carved into the stone

-are remarkable.

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-On this side, there's a mound.

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-On this side,

-there are three stones.

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-On the front,

-a carving of a virtuous well.

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-You'll find these features

-in the village.

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-Actually, a path

-takes you past each of them.

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-In a way, this is a guidebook

-to the sights of Trellech.

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-We'll now follow that guidebook.

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-This is the first attraction

-on the tour - the mound.

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-You can see how close we are

-to the church.

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-Some say that this is a burial mound

-for Roman soldiers...

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-..but that's not true.

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-Rather, these are the remains

-of a Norman motte and bailey castle.

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-There was a timber palisade

-around the top.

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-Unless I'm very much mistaken...

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-..I can see the second feature

-over there.

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-They're known as Harold's Stones.

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-Some believe

-that the name Trellech...

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-..comes from 'tre' meaning three

-and 'llech' meaning flat stone.

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-Although they're named

-after King Harold...

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-..they're Bronze Age stones,

-centuries before Harold's time.

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-The fact that this is called

-Trellech's Virtuous Well...

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-..suggests some sort

-of religious, healing connection.

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-The fact that it flows through land

-which is rich in iron ore...

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-..may add to the virtuous quality

-of the water.

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-Apparently, it helps

-to heal eye infections...

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-..and ailments

-that affect only women.

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-There are plenty of those!

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-I need a virtuous drink

-from a warmer well.

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-From Tintern Abbey

-to Chepstow Castle.

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-From Caerwent's amazing walls

-to Trellech...

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-..and the splendid Severn bridges,

-this is a wondrous corner of Wales.

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-These places may only be in Wales,

-but they're remarkable - and ours!

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-Try to see them before you die.

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-Cheers!

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-S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

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