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-This week, we visit Gwent -to see more Welsh wonders. | 0:00:20 | 0:00:24 | |
-We'll marvel at Tintern Abbey -and Britain's oldest stone castle. | 0:00:24 | 0:00:31 | |
-We'll see the Severn bridges -through the eyes of Marian Delyth. | 0:00:31 | 0:00:35 | |
-John Davies joins us on a Roman wall -and our odyssey ends in Trellech. | 0:00:35 | 0:00:41 | |
-Welcome to 100 Lle, -a series based on the book... | 0:00:44 | 0:00:47 | |
-..Wales: The 100 Places To See -Before You Die. | 0:00:48 | 0:00:51 | |
-The best view of Chepstow Castle -is across the river in England. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:56 | |
-My journey begins near the Wye -with author John Davies. | 0:00:56 | 0:01:01 | |
-The most distinctive of Chepstow's -sights is its Norman castle. | 0:01:01 | 0:01:06 | |
-Here we are in Chepstow. | 0:01:14 | 0:01:16 | |
-Why did you include it in your book? | 0:01:17 | 0:01:20 | |
-What makes Chepstow so special? | 0:01:20 | 0:01:23 | |
-Chepstow is where the Normans -first accessed Wales. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:28 | |
-As a result, it has Wales's earliest -Benedictine priory. | 0:01:28 | 0:01:32 | |
-The first stone castle in Wales -was also built in Chepstow. | 0:01:33 | 0:01:37 | |
-It also has later features -such as the port on the River Wye... | 0:01:37 | 0:01:42 | |
-..and the bridge over there. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:44 | |
-John Rennie built that bridge -across the river in 1816. | 0:01:44 | 0:01:49 | |
-It's one of the finest iron bridges -in the whole of Britain. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:54 | |
-Chepstow means market place. | 0:01:55 | 0:01:57 | |
-The town's Welsh name is Cas-gwent, -which means the castle of Gwent. | 0:01:57 | 0:02:03 | |
-The Welsh-speakers -focused on Norman might... | 0:02:03 | 0:02:07 | |
-..and the non-Welsh speakers -were impressed by its shops! | 0:02:07 | 0:02:12 | |
-That shows two very different takes -on the town. | 0:02:13 | 0:02:17 | |
-Unlike Caernarfon Castle, -which was built during one period... | 0:02:18 | 0:02:22 | |
-..Chepstow Castle -was built over 500 years... | 0:02:23 | 0:02:26 | |
-..between 1097 and Cromwell's time. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:30 | |
-The history of these old gates -is here for all to see, John. | 0:02:32 | 0:02:36 | |
-Yes, and they're very interesting. | 0:02:36 | 0:02:39 | |
-They stood as the castle gates -until as recently as 1962. | 0:02:39 | 0:02:44 | |
-They decided to fit modern doors, -so they had these dated. | 0:02:45 | 0:02:50 | |
-These doors have been dated -to around 1197. | 0:02:50 | 0:02:55 | |
-That makes them the oldest castle -doors in the whole of Europe. | 0:02:56 | 0:03:01 | |
-That in itself gives Chepstow Castle -a very elevated status. | 0:03:01 | 0:03:06 | |
-It's incredible to think -that they were in daily use... | 0:03:06 | 0:03:10 | |
-..for centuries, up until 1962. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:14 | |
-This is one of the nation's -most treasured relics. | 0:03:15 | 0:03:18 | |
-As well as the doors, Britain's -oldest Norman round towers are here. | 0:03:18 | 0:03:22 | |
-The towers were built -in the 12th century. | 0:03:23 | 0:03:26 | |
-They were easier to defend -than square towers... | 0:03:26 | 0:03:30 | |
-..which could be breached -from the outside. | 0:03:30 | 0:03:33 | |
-This is the Great Tower -of Chepstow Castle. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:40 | |
-Is this the oldest part -of the castle? | 0:03:41 | 0:03:44 | |
-This is the oldest stone castle -in Britain. | 0:03:44 | 0:03:48 | |
-It was built within a decade or two -of the 1066 conquest. | 0:03:48 | 0:03:51 | |
-It bears witness -to the Normans' determination... | 0:03:52 | 0:03:55 | |
-..to destroy -the ancient Welsh kingdoms. | 0:03:55 | 0:03:58 | |
-Chepstow was the chief port -of the old kingdom of Gwent. | 0:03:59 | 0:04:03 | |
-The Normans chose to lay down -a marker of their authority here. | 0:04:03 | 0:04:09 | |
-They did so -on an absolutely massive scale. | 0:04:10 | 0:04:13 | |
-The Great Keep is a copy of the keep -at Falaise in Normandy... | 0:04:13 | 0:04:16 | |
-..the birthplace -of William the Conqueror. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:19 | |
-It's Romanesque, but with -later additions on the top. | 0:04:19 | 0:04:24 | |
-Those pointed arches -are more recent... | 0:04:25 | 0:04:28 | |
-..than the traditional rounded -Norman arches further down. | 0:04:28 | 0:04:33 | |
-The traditional Romanesque shapes -give it a real robustness. | 0:04:34 | 0:04:39 | |
-This is a symbol of power. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:41 | |
-The stone is a very interesting -collection of colours. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:51 | |
-Yes, they used -several different types of stone. | 0:04:51 | 0:04:55 | |
-The Great Tower was constructed -from yellow sandstone. | 0:04:55 | 0:04:59 | |
-It came from the Portskewett area. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:02 | |
-You can cut yellow sandstone -into square or rectangular blocks. | 0:05:02 | 0:05:07 | |
-They also used red sandstone -in some parts of the castle. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:12 | |
-There are new pieces too. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:15 | |
-Yes. CADW has carefully inserted -a few new stones. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:19 | |
-They're so new, you could swear -they had just come from B&Q! | 0:05:19 | 0:05:24 | |
-In Wales: The 100 Places To See -Before You Die... | 0:05:30 | 0:05:33 | |
-..John Davies -mentions St Mary's Church, Chepstow. | 0:05:33 | 0:05:38 | |
-It was built on the site -of an old Benedictine priory. | 0:05:38 | 0:05:42 | |
-This is the earliest example -of Romanesque architecture in Wales. | 0:05:43 | 0:05:47 | |
-Another church with an interesting -history lies close to Chepstow. | 0:05:48 | 0:05:53 | |
-Mathern, Merthyr Tewdrig in Welsh, -is five miles from Chepstow. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:09 | |
-Who was Tewdrig? | 0:06:09 | 0:06:10 | |
-First and foremost, he was a king -who ruled Glamorgan and Gwent. | 0:06:11 | 0:06:16 | |
-Tewdrig took on the Saxons -at Tintern in AD 600... | 0:06:16 | 0:06:20 | |
-..and beat them, as it happens. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:23 | |
-He was wounded during the battle... | 0:06:23 | 0:06:26 | |
-..and died from his injuries -three days later. | 0:06:26 | 0:06:31 | |
-He was then buried here, -at St Mary's Church. | 0:06:31 | 0:06:34 | |
-According to John Davies... | 0:06:34 | 0:06:37 | |
-..if it weren't for Tewdrig's -triumph against the Saxons... | 0:06:37 | 0:06:41 | |
-..there would be no Gwent -and Glamorgan... | 0:06:42 | 0:06:45 | |
-..and without those, -there would be no Wales. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:48 | |
-The story doesn't end there. | 0:06:48 | 0:06:50 | |
-When they repaired -the church floor in 1881... | 0:06:51 | 0:06:56 | |
-..they found Tewdrig's remains -inside the church. | 0:06:56 | 0:07:00 | |
-Tewdrig's remains were then -reinterred here under the radiator. | 0:07:00 | 0:07:05 | |
-The religious theme continues, -as does my journey. | 0:07:08 | 0:07:13 | |
-I head up the Wye Valley to one -of Britain's most splendid abbeys. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:19 | |
-This is Tintern Abbey, which was -built in the early 12th century. | 0:07:31 | 0:07:36 | |
-It's one of 15 Cistercian abbeys -in Wales. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:40 | |
-Cistercians usually built -plain abbeys in remote areas. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:45 | |
-That's not true of this abbey, -which is on the border with England. | 0:07:45 | 0:07:50 | |
-Most of Wales's abbeys received -the patronage of Welsh princes. | 0:07:50 | 0:07:55 | |
-Tintern, the wealthiest of them, -was dependent upon Marcher Lords... | 0:07:55 | 0:08:00 | |
-..who held power in this area. | 0:08:00 | 0:08:03 | |
-Tintern is still here, -largely unscathed. | 0:08:04 | 0:08:07 | |
-It lost its roof -in the 16th century... | 0:08:07 | 0:08:10 | |
-..but it stands proudly -in this glorious landscape. | 0:08:11 | 0:08:14 | |
-The west gable was completed -at the turn of the 13th century. | 0:08:29 | 0:08:33 | |
-This was the main entrance. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:35 | |
-There's a hint of a past porch -above the doors... | 0:08:36 | 0:08:40 | |
-..but people -entered the building here. | 0:08:40 | 0:08:43 | |
-Much of the intricate work -above the doors is intact. | 0:08:43 | 0:08:47 | |
-Above the central post, -which divides the two doors... | 0:08:47 | 0:08:51 | |
-..there's an oval recess... | 0:08:52 | 0:08:54 | |
-..in which there may have been -a statue of Mary. | 0:08:54 | 0:08:58 | |
-What a sight! | 0:09:01 | 0:09:04 | |
-We tend to think of churches -as dark buildings... | 0:09:04 | 0:09:08 | |
-..but the Cistercians placed -great emphasis on natural light. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:12 | |
-To that end, the internal walls -of this building were limewashed... | 0:09:13 | 0:09:17 | |
-..and there was a red pattern -on the walls. | 0:09:18 | 0:09:20 | |
-To magnify that natural light... | 0:09:21 | 0:09:24 | |
-..the floor was covered -with glossy tiles. | 0:09:24 | 0:09:27 | |
-There was a church -within a church here. | 0:09:27 | 0:09:31 | |
-This was the public area. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:33 | |
-The public was denied access -past this section. | 0:09:33 | 0:09:37 | |
-There were walls across here, -between the pillars on both sides. | 0:09:37 | 0:09:41 | |
-The public wasn't actually allowed -into the main body of the church. | 0:09:42 | 0:09:46 | |
-There was an ornate screen here, -18 feet high, called the pulpitum. | 0:09:46 | 0:09:51 | |
-This pulpitum was an unusual feature -in a Cistercian abbey. | 0:09:53 | 0:09:58 | |
-It was destroyed by Victorians... | 0:09:59 | 0:10:02 | |
-..who wanted to create an impression -of one vast, open space. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:07 | |
-If the intention -was to build an austere abbey... | 0:10:20 | 0:10:23 | |
-..they lost the plot! | 0:10:24 | 0:10:25 | |
-It's no Las Vegas, -but it's still ostentatious. | 0:10:26 | 0:10:29 | |
-The fun ended with the Dissolution -of the Monasteries in 1536. | 0:10:30 | 0:10:34 | |
-The lead was stolen from the roof, -leaving these magnificent ruins... | 0:10:34 | 0:10:39 | |
-..which are well worth a visit. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:41 | |
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-100 Lle is based on the book Wales: -100 Places To See Before You Die. | 0:11:09 | 0:11:14 | |
-During this series, -we'll see several locations... | 0:11:14 | 0:11:18 | |
-..through the eyes -of photographer Marian Delyth. | 0:11:18 | 0:11:22 | |
-This week, we look at the bridges -over the River Severn. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:26 | |
-When I go to these locations, -something unexpected often happens. | 0:11:26 | 0:11:32 | |
-Suddenly, I saw a boat coming -from the far side of the river. | 0:11:32 | 0:11:37 | |
-I waited for a while -and I took several shots of it. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:42 | |
-Suddenly, I reached the point -where there was a wave... | 0:11:42 | 0:11:46 | |
-..but you couldn't see the boat. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:50 | |
-It looks like a mysterious wave. | 0:11:50 | 0:11:52 | |
-It gives this picture -a special mood. | 0:11:52 | 0:11:55 | |
-It's a special moment -within the photographic session. | 0:11:55 | 0:11:59 | |
-This is the old bridge, of course, -so I didn't stay there long. | 0:11:59 | 0:12:05 | |
-I then headed to Severn Beach. | 0:12:10 | 0:12:13 | |
-The sun was really bright -on that day. | 0:12:14 | 0:12:19 | |
-The heat generated by the sun -created a haze. | 0:12:19 | 0:12:25 | |
-I like the effect... | 0:12:25 | 0:12:27 | |
-..even though you can't see -the bridge in great detail. | 0:12:27 | 0:12:31 | |
-It's like an Impressionist painting. | 0:12:32 | 0:12:34 | |
-This is the photograph -used above the title in the book. | 0:12:35 | 0:12:39 | |
-As is the wont of photographers... | 0:12:39 | 0:12:41 | |
-..I chose the most interesting part -of the photograph. | 0:12:42 | 0:12:48 | |
-I was then worried that it was -too light to use above the title. | 0:12:49 | 0:12:56 | |
-I deepened the colours -a little bit. | 0:12:56 | 0:13:00 | |
-What about the main picture? | 0:13:06 | 0:13:08 | |
-You have one for the title... | 0:13:10 | 0:13:12 | |
-..but how did you select -the other picture? | 0:13:12 | 0:13:15 | |
-I like these because they add -a human element to the photograph. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:20 | |
-They're not abstract shots, -showing the bridge's architecture. | 0:13:20 | 0:13:27 | |
-It's almost an echo of the bridge -in the background, isn't it? | 0:13:28 | 0:13:32 | |
-Yes, there's a certain balance -about the photograph. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:36 | |
-We're looking across at Wales, -of course. | 0:13:37 | 0:13:40 | |
-There's a symbolism about it -and a real sense of tranquillity. | 0:13:40 | 0:13:45 | |
-I'm astonished at these walls. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:28 | |
-I never knew of their existence. | 0:14:28 | 0:14:30 | |
-You should have come to Caerwent -when you were a child. | 0:14:30 | 0:14:34 | |
-It's one of the wonders of Wales. | 0:14:35 | 0:14:37 | |
-Around 3,000 people lived here -in the early fourth century. | 0:14:38 | 0:14:43 | |
-There wasn't a larger town -than this in Wales... | 0:14:43 | 0:14:46 | |
-..for at least a thousand years -after that point. | 0:14:46 | 0:14:49 | |
-This was Wales's first town... | 0:14:49 | 0:14:52 | |
-..and the walls are proof -of the need to defend it. | 0:14:52 | 0:14:56 | |
-These are the best -Roman town walls in Europe... | 0:14:56 | 0:14:59 | |
-..because they're so complete. | 0:14:59 | 0:15:02 | |
-They were probably built -around AD 370. | 0:15:03 | 0:15:06 | |
-This town was thriving -at that point in time. | 0:15:06 | 0:15:10 | |
-Considering so many people -lived here at such an early time... | 0:15:11 | 0:15:16 | |
-..something must have happened -to cause it not to develop... | 0:15:16 | 0:15:20 | |
-..like Chester, Winchester -and the other great Roman towns. | 0:15:20 | 0:15:24 | |
-Archaeologists can dig -almost every inch of this land. | 0:15:25 | 0:15:29 | |
-In Chester, -there are houses upon houses... | 0:15:29 | 0:15:33 | |
-..but these are open fields. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:35 | |
-There were 20 insulae, -or rectangular plots, here. | 0:15:36 | 0:15:39 | |
-Around 15 of them -have now been excavated... | 0:15:40 | 0:15:43 | |
-..but you couldn't do that -in Winchester or Gloucester... | 0:15:43 | 0:15:47 | |
-..because they're under buildings -erected by later generations. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:52 | |
-That isn't true here. | 0:15:52 | 0:15:54 | |
-We know more about it than any other -Roman town in western Europe. | 0:15:54 | 0:15:59 | |
-What is there to see -within these walls, John? | 0:16:12 | 0:16:16 | |
-There would be a lot to see here -2,000 years ago. | 0:16:16 | 0:16:19 | |
-When excavations started here -in the late 19th century... | 0:16:20 | 0:16:24 | |
-..they tended to date the remains -and take away any objects found... | 0:16:24 | 0:16:30 | |
-..then replace the soil. | 0:16:30 | 0:16:32 | |
-In more recent times, -they've exposed the foundations... | 0:16:32 | 0:16:37 | |
-..to make them visible to people. | 0:16:38 | 0:16:40 | |
-At first glance, the wonders -of Caerwent aren't striking... | 0:16:46 | 0:16:50 | |
-..but as you walk -around the remains... | 0:16:50 | 0:16:53 | |
-..you can imagine life within -the basilica, the heart of the city. | 0:16:53 | 0:16:58 | |
-You can also imagine people -worshipping within the Roman temple. | 0:16:58 | 0:17:03 | |
-We're at St Stephen -and St Tathan church in Caerwent... | 0:17:13 | 0:17:17 | |
-..to disprove a claim made by a town -that's a hundred miles away. | 0:17:18 | 0:17:24 | |
-That's amazing! | 0:17:24 | 0:17:25 | |
-I'm always angry -when I see signs in Carmarthen... | 0:17:26 | 0:17:30 | |
-..claiming it to be -the oldest town in Wales. | 0:17:30 | 0:17:33 | |
-It's supposition that Carmarthen -was a town 2,000 years ago. | 0:17:33 | 0:17:37 | |
-There's evidence that Caerwent -was a town 2,000 years ago. | 0:17:38 | 0:17:42 | |
-This is irrefutable evidence... | 0:17:42 | 0:17:45 | |
-..that this was the capital -of the land of Silures. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
-It's a memorial to Paulinus, -the Governor of Britannia Secunda. | 0:17:49 | 0:17:54 | |
-Inscribed here is... | 0:17:54 | 0:17:56 | |
-..ex decreto ordinis -republica civitas Silurum. | 0:17:57 | 0:18:04 | |
-By order of the republic -of the land of the Silures. | 0:18:04 | 0:18:09 | |
-This is irrefutable evidence... | 0:18:10 | 0:18:12 | |
-..of the status of Caerwent -and of the Silures. | 0:18:13 | 0:18:16 | |
-Given that it was erected -during the time of Paulinus... | 0:18:16 | 0:18:21 | |
-..about what period are we talking? | 0:18:21 | 0:18:23 | |
-Paulinus was the legate -of Legio Secunda Augusta... | 0:18:24 | 0:18:27 | |
-..the legion stationed at Caerleon -in AD 220. | 0:18:28 | 0:18:31 | |
-This stone belongs to the first half -of the third century. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:35 | |
-The style is added proof of that. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:38 | |
-This is the village of Trellech, -or Trelleck or Trelech. | 0:19:20 | 0:19:25 | |
-There are 37 variations -on the name of this village. | 0:19:25 | 0:19:28 | |
-As it happens, there's also -a variety of things to see here. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:32 | |
-We're here to see -this magnificent sundial. | 0:19:45 | 0:19:48 | |
-It's amazing what you can discover -in the hidden corners of Wales. | 0:19:48 | 0:19:53 | |
-We're not here to look -at the sundial itself... | 0:19:53 | 0:19:57 | |
-..but at the plinth -beneath the dial. | 0:19:57 | 0:20:00 | |
-The features carved into the stone -are remarkable. | 0:20:00 | 0:20:03 | |
-On this side, there's a mound. | 0:20:05 | 0:20:07 | |
-On this side, -there are three stones. | 0:20:07 | 0:20:10 | |
-On the front, -a carving of a virtuous well. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:13 | |
-You'll find these features -in the village. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:17 | |
-Actually, a path -takes you past each of them. | 0:20:17 | 0:20:20 | |
-In a way, this is a guidebook -to the sights of Trellech. | 0:20:20 | 0:20:24 | |
-We'll now follow that guidebook. | 0:20:24 | 0:20:27 | |
-This is the first attraction -on the tour - the mound. | 0:20:42 | 0:20:45 | |
-You can see how close we are -to the church. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:48 | |
-Some say that this is a burial mound -for Roman soldiers... | 0:20:49 | 0:20:53 | |
-..but that's not true. | 0:20:53 | 0:20:55 | |
-Rather, these are the remains -of a Norman motte and bailey castle. | 0:20:56 | 0:21:01 | |
-There was a timber palisade -around the top. | 0:21:01 | 0:21:04 | |
-Unless I'm very much mistaken... | 0:21:05 | 0:21:07 | |
-..I can see the second feature -over there. | 0:21:07 | 0:21:10 | |
-They're known as Harold's Stones. | 0:21:11 | 0:21:13 | |
-Some believe -that the name Trellech... | 0:21:18 | 0:21:20 | |
-..comes from 'tre' meaning three -and 'llech' meaning flat stone. | 0:21:21 | 0:21:25 | |
-Although they're named -after King Harold... | 0:21:26 | 0:21:29 | |
-..they're Bronze Age stones, -centuries before Harold's time. | 0:21:29 | 0:21:34 | |
-The fact that this is called -Trellech's Virtuous Well... | 0:21:47 | 0:21:51 | |
-..suggests some sort -of religious, healing connection. | 0:21:52 | 0:21:56 | |
-The fact that it flows through land -which is rich in iron ore... | 0:21:56 | 0:22:00 | |
-..may add to the virtuous quality -of the water. | 0:22:00 | 0:22:03 | |
-Apparently, it helps -to heal eye infections... | 0:22:04 | 0:22:07 | |
-..and ailments -that affect only women. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:10 | |
-There are plenty of those! | 0:22:10 | 0:22:12 | |
-I need a virtuous drink -from a warmer well. | 0:22:13 | 0:22:18 | |
-From Tintern Abbey -to Chepstow Castle. | 0:23:05 | 0:23:09 | |
-From Caerwent's amazing walls -to Trellech... | 0:23:09 | 0:23:13 | |
-..and the splendid Severn bridges, -this is a wondrous corner of Wales. | 0:23:13 | 0:23:18 | |
-These places may only be in Wales, -but they're remarkable - and ours! | 0:23:18 | 0:23:23 | |
-Try to see them before you die. | 0:23:23 | 0:23:25 | |
-Cheers! | 0:23:25 | 0:23:27 | |
-S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones | 0:23:48 | 0:23:51 |