Pennod 3 100 Lle


Pennod 3

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-This week on 100 Lle...

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-..we travel from Caernarfon Castle

-to Gwydir Castle.

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-Photographer Marian Delyth

-captures Tre'r Ceiri.

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-In Llanberis,

-we discover our industrial past...

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-..and electric future...

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-Romantic autumn colours

-at Bodnant Gardens.

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-We start in the town of the Cofis.

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-The construction

-of Caernarfon Castle began in 1283.

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-Edward I intended it to serve...

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-..as the focus of English rule

-and thus suppress the Welsh nation.

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-The irony, however,

-is that nowadays...

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-..Caernarfon is the most Welsh town

-in the country.

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-Caernarfon Castle is one

-of Wales's most impressive buildings.

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-One of the most impressive

-in the world.

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-As a statement of power,

-there's nothing quite like it.

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-Its length spans 450 feet.

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-It's interesting as a statement

-of Edward I's intent.

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-Caernarfon was already noted

-as the location....

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-..on which the Roman fort

-of Segontium stood.

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-Legend has it

-that Magnus Maximus, Constantine...

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-..and Helen had all been here too.

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-That's why we're here

-in the fortress facing Anglesey.

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-It's a wonderful place.

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-Has the castle been built...

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-..to purposely follow

-the course of the river?

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-This side does follow

-the river's course...

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-..but space was confined

-due to the old Norman motte.

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-That was later removed,

-but it dictated its design.

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-It's an interesting

-and very imposing shape.

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-It's neither a concentric castle

-like Beaumaris...

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-..nor a castle with one tower

-at its centre like Pembroke.

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-It's a series of defensive towers...

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-..and adjoining walls, each section

-as impenetrable as the next.

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-It's an incomparable statement

-of power and wealth.

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-The towers are different

-because they're octagonal.

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-That's a conscious imitation

-of Roman architecture.

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-He was trying to create a centre

-for his royal empire...

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-..in western Europe.

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-It's also reminiscent

-of Constantinople.

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-Octagonal towers

-with layers of different stone.

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-Constantinople is situated

-in eastern Europe, of course.

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-His intention

-was to create an empire.

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-An empire equal to that of Rome.

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-That was certainly

-what Edward I had intended.

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-The town's walls were integral

-to the castle's design.

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-Caernarfon was an administrative

-and legislative centre.

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-It was home to the sheriff

-and local officials.

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-The Welsh were banned from the town

-until the Tudor period.

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-A relatively new building

-has since been constructed...

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-..for Arfon's administrators.

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-Gwynedd Council, encompassing

-Anglesey, Merionethshire...

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-..and Caernarfonshire,

-needed extensive office space.

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-Dewi Prys Thomas was primarily

-responsible for this design.

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-There's a plaque and an englyn

-written in his honour.

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-He wanted a contrast

-to the castle.

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-His inspiration

-came from the Swiss cantons.

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-The result is a very charming

-yet relaxed building.

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-The authors of Buildings Of Gwynedd

-weren't so enthusiastic...

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-..but I must say

-that I'm a great fan.

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-The most imposing tower

-within the castle...

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-..is the Eagle Tower.

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-It was intended to be

-the most substantial and striking...

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-..because it was home

-to the Justiciar of North Wales...

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-..the King's representative.

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-It was necessary to have

-a dignified dwelling for him.

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-That was it - the Eagle Tower.

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-The eagle is again reminiscent

-of the Roman empire...

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-..where it was the symbol

-of Roman dominance.

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-They were sculpted from stone,

-traces of which can be seen today.

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-Though the eagle has eroded,

-but the tower still bears its name.

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-As this tower

-belonged to the Crown...

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-..the Union Jack

-was flown above the tower...

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-..at least until the end

-of the 1920s...

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-..when a gang of Bangor students

-tore down the Union Jack...

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-..on Sr David's Day

-and replaced it with the Red Dragon.

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-That was one of the first protests

-giving prominence to the Red Dragon.

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-This is possibly

-the first public building...

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-..to fly the Welsh flag.

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-It has become commonplace now.

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-From one castle to another...

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-..amid the breathtaking scenery

-of Llanberis.

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-We associate Llanberis

-with the slate industry and Snowdon.

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-But Llanberis

-had strategic importance...

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-..long before slate was mined

-and trains chugged up the slopes.

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-This was the back door of Gwynedd.

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-Dolbadarn Castle was built in 1225

-to defend the valley.

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-It was here that Owain Goch

-was imprisoned...

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-..by his brother,

-Llywelyn ap Gruffudd.

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-This was the last Welsh stronghold

-to fall to Edward I.

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-To add insult to injury...

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-..large sections of it

-were carried to Caernarfon...

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-..to build the castle there.

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-The only part that remains today

-is this lovely tower.

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-Another of Llanberis's attractions...

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-..is the power station

-inside Elidir Fawr.

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-The idea is that flowing water

-produces electricity.

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-It flows from here, Llyn Marchlyn.

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-This is Europe's biggest

-pumped storage power station.

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-It was built in less than 10 years

-at a cost of 450 million.

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-The aim was to build

-a clean power station...

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-..hidden inside the mountain.

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-A series of interior tunnels

-stretch for 10km.

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-The water flows for 600 metres

-down the mountain...

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-..into these six pumps.

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-Amazingly, more water passes

-through them in 90 minutes...

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-..than is used in London

-in a whole day.

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-These taps can be opened

-in less than five seconds...

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-..allowing a flow of 92,000 gallons

-of water per second.

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-That's equivalent to a million

-and a half cups of tea every second.

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-The water flows through the green

-and yellow taps we saw earlier...

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-..underneath the ground

-into the turbines behind me.

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-They drive these shafts

-into the generators above.

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-They ultimately convert the power

-into electricity.

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-From a green modern industry

-to an old industry...

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-..responsible for shaping

-this area's stony character.

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-By the late 18th century...

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-..the slate industry

-had reached Llanberis...

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-..and left its mark

-on this striking landscape.

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-The National Slate Museum

-gives the impression that workers...

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-..have only recently downed tools.

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-But this quarry closed in 1969.

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-This is Britain's biggest waterwheel.

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-It was installed

-at the end of the 19th century.

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-They could have used steam,

-but water was plentiful and free.

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-The energy that it produces

-also costs nothing.

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-Power from this wheel

-ran all the site's machinery.

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-This is essentially

-a self-sufficient factory...

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-..able to fulfil all kinds

-of industrial requirements.

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-It's so much more

-than just a slate museum.

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-It's a fitting tribute to the men

-who worked and died here.

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-Each week on 100 Lle,

-we see one location...

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-..through the eyes

-of photographer Marian Delyth.

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-This week,

-it's Tre'r Ceiri on Yr Eifl.

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-How did you go about photographing

-Tre'r Ceiri?

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-When I saw that Tre'r Ceiri

-was on the list...

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-..I knew

-that it would pose a problem.

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-My dream was to ride in a plane

-after it had snowed...

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-..and to take an aerial photograph

-of Tre'r Ceiri.

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-Of course, in the world of Welsh

-publishing, that wasn't possible.

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-I submitted one photograph

-of Tre'r Ceiri...

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-..concentrating on the location

-and putting it into context.

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-Are these the final photographs?

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-Are these the ones

-that made the cut?

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-These were the ones

-that led to the final image.

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-I had given up for the day.

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-It had been a fine morning.

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-By lunchtime, it was cloudy,

-dark and windy...

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-..and was snowing.

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-It was so cold that I couldn't

-stand outside for five minutes.

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-It was difficult

-to keep the camera steady.

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-But these things require patience.

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-I decided to persevere.

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-An artist who draws with a pencil

-gradually builds up a picture...

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-..from a blank piece of paper.

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-He builds the picture.

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-The opposite is true of photography.

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-You start with the picture

-or the scene as a whole...

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-..and then focus in...

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-..until you find an element

-in that scene...

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-..that's visually exciting.

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-An improvement in the weather

-led to that final image...

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-..where the stone wall stands out...

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-..because of the snow.

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-Tre'r Ceiri

-appears in the background.

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-These are two of the images

-that feature in the book.

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-They're almost identical.

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-Yes, almost, but shot

-at different times of day.

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-Yr Eifl at sunset

-has become a familiar image.

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-I took it a few years ago

-with film...

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-..before the advent of digital.

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-The other photograph

-is from Aberdesach.

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-There's no better place to be

-in summer than Aberdesach.

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-The views are superb.

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-It's a panoramic shot, showing

-Yr Eifl in the context of the sea.

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-In this photograph,

-I was trying to convey...

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-..the harsh weather

-and rugged landscape.

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-It's very barren and bare.

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-It's an unforgiving landscape...

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-..when you consider that people

-actually lived on the summit.

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-Once again, the landscape

-is somewhat disguised by the snow.

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-It allows you to focus

-on other elements...

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-..such as the green grass.

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-The focus is mainly on the crags.

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-A little snow highlights

-the few colours in the landscape.

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-Many gardens in Wales are worth

-a visit for one reason or another...

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-..but they all tend

-to be relatively flat.

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-What Bodnant gives us is drama.

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-Helping to create that drama

-is the landscape's sloping nature.

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-The industrial chemist

-Henry Davis Pochin...

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-..laid the foundations

-for Bodnant's gardens...

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-..when he retired here in 1874.

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-The family still owns

-this Georgian house...

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-..though the gardens are now owned

-by the National Trust.

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-The Aberconway family has played

-a key role in Bodnant's development.

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-Manager Michael McLaren

-continues the tradition.

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-People visit Bodnant

-for numerous reasons.

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-To see the laburnum in bloom...

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-..and to see the many species

-and sub-species of rhododendrons.

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-But it's nice to just walk around

-and find quiet spots...

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-..to catch glimpses of the vibrant

-autumn colours between the trees.

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-The site is home

-to two interesting buildings.

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-Henry Davis is responsible

-for building the mausoleum...

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-..as a resting place.

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-Later, the second Lord Aberconway...

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-..relocated the Pin Mill

-from Gloucestershire to Bodnant.

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-John mentions in his book...

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-..that spring is the best time

-to visit Bodnant...

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-..and that autumn

-is the most romantic time.

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-On my own.

-Let's not get too romantic!

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-Next, one castle, two chapels...

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-..and one of Britain's

-most influential families.

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-This is Gwydir Castle,

-the home of the Wynn dynasty.

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-We know more about Sir John Wynn...

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-..than about almost any other figure

-of the 16th and 17th centuries.

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-He wrote

-The History Of The Gwydir Family.

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-He mentions his links with William

-Morgan's translation of the Bible.

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-He was the area's

-most prominent landowner.

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-You get the impression from his work

-that he thought a lot of himself...

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-..and could be rather awkward.

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-With that much power and influence,

-he could afford to be.

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-And wealth, of course.

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-And wealth, of course.

-

-It's a very sturdy house.

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-The Solar Tower

-is the most interesting part.

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-Notice the two chimneys,

-one at each end.

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-A typical feature

-of Snowdonia houses.

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-This may have been the original,

-as I'm sure you're aware.

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-The house has a chequered history...

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-..but this room

-has a particularly interesting past.

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-It's very interesting.

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-During the days of Richard Wynn...

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-..wood panels covered the walls

-of this dining room.

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-But after the house

-fell into disrepair...

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-..following the First World War...

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-..the owners decided to make money

-out of them.

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-When Randolph Hearst,

-a Citizen Kane-type figure...

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-..heard about Gwydir's impressive

-wooden panels, he bought them.

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-He wanted to reinstall them at his

-home in San Simeon, California.

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-But he didn't get around

-to doing that.

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-The present owners, who bought

-the castle in the early 1990s...

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-..wondered what had happened

-to the panels.

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-In 1996, they found them in boxes

-in a New York warehouse.

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-With the help of CADW,

-they were able to bring them back.

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-I can't think of a more exciting

-or romantic story than that!

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-We've seen where the Wynns lived,

-and this is where they died.

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-Or rather,

-where they came after they died.

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-It was created as an extension

-to the Church of Saint Grwst.

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-The main church

-dates back to 1470.

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-This dates back to 1533...

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-..making it younger

-than the main body of the church.

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-It was built

-as a final resting place.

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-The bodies of the Wynn family

-are buried under this stone floor.

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-Though this place was meant

-as a memorial to the Wynns...

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-..it's also home to the coffin

-of Llywelyn Fawr.

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-But its cover is missing.

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-His wife's coffin is very ornate

-and is housed in Beaumaris.

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-But the cover for this

-has long disappeared.

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-Llywelyn Fawr died in 1240.

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-He had become a monk

-at Aberconwy Abbey.

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-Following the Dissolution

-of the Monasteries by Henry VIII...

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-..the coffin was lost for over

-a century before it reappeared here.

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-Here's another of the chapels

-or churches of the Gwydir family.

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-It's situated halfway up the valley.

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-This was more personal to them.

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-The other is an extension

-of the parish church...

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-..whereas this is a private chapel

-near the summer dwelling...

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-..built for the family

-in the hills above the mansion.

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-Interestingly,

-this chapel was built in 1673...

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-..a year before the death

-of Richard Wynn...

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-..the last of the Gwydir barons.

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-The building's showpiece

-is its impressive painted ceiling.

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-It echoes the tradition seen

-throughout Italy during this period.

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-It's suggested that the depictions

-are a little naive.

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-A local artist was commissioned...

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-..to interpret

-Richard Wynn's design.

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-The depiction above the altar...

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-..or the communion table

-represents the Creation.

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-Night and day, heaven and earth.

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-In the middle, there are symbols

-of the Holy Trinity.

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-God is dressed in red clothes.

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-Further down, there are six angels

-looking particularly angelic.

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-The most important thing

-about this place...

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-..is that it has been left alone.

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-There was a trend

-during the Victorian era...

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-..to give parish churches

-a medieval transformation.

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-They revamped and restored them,

-but this chapel was left alone.

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-It's a perfect example

-of how a noble churchman thought...

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-..a place of worship should be

-in the mid to late 17th century.

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-It's one of our national treasures.

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-S4C Subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

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