Pennod 12 100 Lle


Pennod 12

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-In this programme, we visit

-five places to see before you die.

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-We see Castell Coch,

-William Burges's creation.

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-We see Pontypridd

-through Marian Delyth's lens.

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-From St Fagans, we move on

-to the splendid Llandaff Cathedral.

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-Our odyssey begins in Caerphilly,

-with the author John Davies.

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-We're standing outside

-Wales's biggest castle...

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-..Caerphilly Castle.

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-Surprisingly,

-it wasn't a royal castle.

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-No, it was never

-in a king's hands.

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-It belonged to the lord

-of Glamorgan, Gilbert de Clare...

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-..a masterful lord of the March.

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-It's the largest castle in Wales

-and the second-largest in Britain.

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-Windsor Castle is slightly bigger.

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-This is a very substantial castle.

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-Why is it so big?

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-Why is it so big?

-

-It's a tribute to Welsh power.

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-The Normans seized control

-of the coastal regions initially.

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-They built a castle in Cardiff...

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-..but left the Glamorgan uplands

-in the hands of local lords.

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-People like Ifor Bach

-and his descendants.

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-By the time Llywelyn ap Gruffudd's

-power had spread to these parts...

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-..the Welsh lords were happier

-to recognize Llywelyn...

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-..rather than

-a Norman lord of Cardiff.

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-The de Clare family

-was well aware of that.

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-They built this castle to combat

-the threat posed by Llywelyn.

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-This is a symbol of the battle

-to save Cardiff from Welsh rule!

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-Things have changed.

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-Looking at the outer ward...

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-..across the water, which is vital

-to the castle's design...

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-..we can see the vastness

-of this castle.

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-It looks enormous from here.

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-The castle itself is at least

-as big as Beaumaris Castle.

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-This was the first concentric castle

-to be built in Britain.

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-Similar castles were built

-in Palestine during the Crusades.

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-The idea was for the outer ward

-to wholly enclose the inner ward.

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-That's precisely what you have here.

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-You can see the wall

-of the outer ward there...

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-..and the wall of the inner ward.

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-You can also see

-the solid gatehouse...

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-..and the very striking

-water defences.

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-The concentric design is the most

-important element of this castle.

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-We think of Beaumaris

-as a perfect concentric castle...

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-..but this was built

-at least 30 years before Beaumaris.

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-The builders of Caerphilly Castle

-were very much pioneers.

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-This is the Great Hall,

-within the inner ward.

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-It has a roof...

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-..which in itself sets it apart

-from every other castle we've seen!

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-The roof isn't original, of course.

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-The hall was built by the de Clares

-in the late 13th century.

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-It was remodelled by the Despensers

-during the 14th century...

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-..but was then left

-to go to rack and ruin.

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-It was restored in the 19th century

-by the third Marquess of Bute.

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-He put a roof on the Great Hall...

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-..for a visit by the Royal

-Archaeological Society.

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-There are photographs

-of them feasting here.

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-The Royal Archaeological Society's

-visit in 1871...

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-..was very much a celebrated event.

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-As well as putting a roof

-on the Great Hall...

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-..the third and fourth marquesses

-spent a fortune on restoration work.

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-Caerphilly Castle is famous

-for its leaning tower.

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-It's as though it was frozen

-in the process of falling down!

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-That's very true.

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-It didn't look like this

-in the 13th century.

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-It leans 10 degrees out of true,

-which is an alarming angle.

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-The tower at Pisa only leans

-3.9 degrees out of true.

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-It's more of a leaning tower

-than anything you'll see in Italy.

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-We should erect a sign in Pisa...

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-..saying

-"Welcome to the Italian Caerphilly"!

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-The tower in Caerphilly

-is superior to the one in Pisa.

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-The idea of straightening it

-was mooted...

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-..but they decided to keep it.

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-We tend to think of Castell Coch

-as a mere medieval folly...

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-..from that romantic period

-in the late 19th century.

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-But a castle stood here

-600 years earlier.

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-It was built

-by the de Clares...

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-..the same family

-that built Caerphilly Castle.

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-We know that from the angular style

-at the base of the towers.

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-It's the same angled style

-as Marten's Tower, Chepstow Castle.

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-The castle was damaged during

-the revolt of Llywelyn Bren...

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-..from 1314 to 1316.

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-Very little

-is known about Llywelyn Bren...

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-..but we do know his revolt

-was short-lived but fierce.

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-The castle lay in ruins

-for 500 years...

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-..until the third Marquess of Bute

-and William Burges...

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-..wrote a remarkable new chapter

-in the history of Castell Coch.

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-The footprint of this castle

-matches the original exactly...

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-..but its style is all about

-Burges's travels around Europe.

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-This design is firmly based

-on French Gothic architecture.

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-The conical roofs of the towers

-are a good example of that.

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-The real glory of Castell Coch

-is the internal decoration.

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-William Burges turned

-architectural dreams into reality...

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-..for the third Marquess of Bute.

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-Burges's love

-of the French Gothic style...

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-..was inspired by the restorations

-of Viollet-le-Duc.

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-This is the drawing room.

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-People came here after feasting

-in the Banqueting Hall.

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-It would have been a sight to behold

-after a sumptuous meal.

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-People came here to relax and to

-marvel at the breathtaking decor.

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-The main feature of this room

-is the tableau above the fireplace.

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-Here, we see the thread of life.

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-Clotho spins the thread,

-it's measured by Lachesis...

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-..and Atropos cuts it at death.

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-Wherever you look in this room,

-you see decorative touches.

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-The arch above the fireplace

-features lizards, frogs...

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-..and creepy-crawlies

-peeking out between the leaves.

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-It's typical of the touches

-you see at Castell Coch.

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-This is the Marchioness

-of Bute's bedroom.

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-Look at that wonderful

-domed ceiling!

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-We're at the top of the tower,

-so the views are breathtaking.

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-This is one of the most

-ornate rooms in the castle.

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-The magnificent domed ceiling

-is wonderfully decorated.

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-Imagine looking up from your bed

-and seeing that!

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-There's a striking contrast between

-the splendid decorated ceiling...

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-..with its light elegance...

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-..and the heavy pillars

-and rhythmic patterns on the walls.

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-That's what you got when you invited

-William Burges into your house.

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-He designed the carpets,

-the furniture, the walls...

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-..the ceilings, the light

-and even this basin and pedestal.

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-The towers on either side

-held hot and cold water.

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-There's even B for Bute

-on the tap.

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-When Burges died in 1881,

-the work was unfinished.

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-The interior was completed under

-the supervision of his assistants...

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-..J S Chapple and William Frame.

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-Castell Coch is now seen as

-a Victorian architectural gem.

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-Castell Coch is so small,

-you can see it all in one morning...

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-..and move on to another of the

-100 Places To See Before You Die.

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-.

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-We're in your studio

-to discuss Pontypridd, Marian.

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-Most would think of the bridge

-as an obvious starting point.

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-Yes, that's quite predictable

-but visitors are disappointed...

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-..if they go there expecting to see

-the romantic images of the bridge...

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-..featured in old pictures

-and on Nantgarw porcelain.

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-These days, the old bridge

-is surrounded by the new bridge...

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-..and by contemporary buildings.

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-A never-ending stream of traffic

-hurtles past it.

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-For that reason, I decided

-not to focus on the bridge.

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-I sought solace in Pontypridd's

-more romantic elements.

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-Above Pontypridd,

-looking down on the town...

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-..is this stone circle,

-the Rocking Stone at its centre.

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-Iolo Morganwg,

-the great Welsh romantic...

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-..announced plans to hold

-an eisteddfod there back in 1815.

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-It's a wonderful oasis of calm,

-above the din of the traffic.

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-It's a popular destination

-for local walkers.

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-I then decided to focus...

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-..on a traditional, conventional

-method of immortalization.

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-I went on to Ynysangharad Park,

-near the heart of the town.

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-I went there to photograph the

-wonderful Goscombe John memorial...

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-..to the James brothers

-who wrote Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau...

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-..the Welsh national anthem.

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-I think these sculptures

-are lifelike.

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-It's wonderful to reach a location

-when the light is perfect.

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-That allows me to show the subject

-in all its glory.

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-These don't appear in the book.

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-An existing photo of mine

-was scanned and used for the book.

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-The Earl of Plymouth

-presented St Fagans Castle...

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-..to the National Museum of Wales

-in 1946.

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-Most of the building

-is Elizabethan...

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-..and was built

-by the Herbert family in 1548.

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-It's one of the finest

-Elizabethan buildings in Wales.

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-The name St Fagans Castle

-is misleading.

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-It was never a castle.

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-These outer defences have more to do

-with fashion than fortification.

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-This was the first step

-in the process...

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-..of turning Iorwerth Peate's dream

-of creating a Welsh folk museum...

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-..into a glorious reality.

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-St Fagans is one of Europe's

-leading open-air museums.

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-It's also the most popular

-tourist attraction in Wales.

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-Over 40 buildings

-from Celtic times to modern times...

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-..are housed on the site.

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-We've come from the old entrance,

-opposite the castle...

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-..to the new entrance.

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-The emphasis is on old buildings

-moved here from across Wales...

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-..and it's easy to overlook

-the new buildings erected here.

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-This was designed by Ivan Dale Owen

-and the Percy Thomas Partnership...

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-..and was opened in the 1970s.

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-Dale Owen studied in America...

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-..under the famous Walter Gropius,

-one of the founders of Bauhaus.

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-The administrative block

-at the museum...

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-..displays a contemporary

-international vision.

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-Let's step back several centuries

-to visit St Teilo's Church.

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-Moved here from Pontarddulais,

-it opened to the public in 2007.

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-The interior is decorated

-in an early 16th century style...

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-..when this was still

-a Catholic church.

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-There were pictures on the walls...

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-..when this church

-was in Llandeilo Talybont.

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-They were exposed by water

-leaking through the roof.

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-It would have been decorated

-in this way before the Reformation.

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-Llandeilo Talybont was on the

-Pilgrims' Route to St David's.

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-That's underlined

-by St Christopher over here.

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-On the other side,

-we have the Sunday Christ.

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-It's a warning to those

-who worked on Sundays...

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-..that sabbath-breaking

-was not acceptable.

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-Here we see Christ

-surrounded by tools...

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-..to remind people that using them

-on a Sunday would hurt Jesus.

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-These images were designed to reach

-a largely illiterate audience.

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-One of St Fagans's top attractions

-is the terrace from Rhyd-y-car.

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-It's one terrace from six periods...

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-..starting in 1855 with

-the white house at the bottom...

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-..progressing all the way to 1985,

-with the pink house at the top.

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-When we think of Llandaff,

-we usually think of the cathedral...

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-..but we're in Llandaff Castle!

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-Yes, though the castle

-lies in ruins.

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-It seems Llandaff was a diocese

-as far back as the 6th century...

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-..when the bishop lived

-with his fellow monks.

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-In the 13th century, the bishop

-felt he needed a castle...

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-..in order to feel secure.

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-Bishops were largely outsiders

-whom local people disliked.

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-They needed somewhere

-that could be defended.

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-This is a genuine castle.

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-The diocese of Llandaff suffered

-hugely during the Reformation.

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-The bishops decided to keep

-the lands for themselves...

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-..or to sell them and make money.

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-As one 17th century

-Bishop of Llandaff put it...

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-.."I am the bishop of Aff,

-for all the land has gone."

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-They were so poor,

-the castle fell into ruin.

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-This is in a worse condition than

-many of Wales's secular castles.

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-The cathedral

-has been rebuilt several times.

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-Yes, it has suffered

-more than any church in Britain.

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-The building collapsed in 1723.

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-It was bombed in the 20th century.

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-Fire destroyed the organ in 2000.

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-It has seen a string of tragedies...

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-..as though God were persecuting

-the Anglicans of Llandaff!

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-Evidence of various

-architectural periods...

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-..can be seen in the church walls.

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-The western facade is an example

-of early Gothic design.

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-The 19th century south-western tower

-gave the cathedral...

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-..a distinctiveness

-it had previously lacked.

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-There's a majestic Romanesque arch

-on the south side.

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-We saw a Romanesque arch

-outside the building...

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-..but it pales in comparison

-to this arch inside the church.

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-Yes, and this really is magnificent.

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-It's the main surviving feature

-from the building...

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-..commissioned by Urban,

-the bishop here from 1107 to 1133.

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-It's a wonderful example

-of Romanesque architecture.

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-It's a curved arch which is typical

-of 12th century architecture.

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-I believe that it's the best

-12th century arch in Wales.

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-The high altar in the Lady Chapel...

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-..is an attempt to link Mary

-to the Welsh tradition.

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-There are nine plants whose names

-in Welsh contain the word Mair.

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-The old Welsh name for foxgloves

-translates as Mary's thimbles.

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-The flowers do resemble thimbles,

-and it's a charming display.

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-It's an example of a rare attempt

-by the church...

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-..to show respect

-to the Welsh language.

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-One advantage of having a church

-that is regularly damaged...

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-..is that you can rebuild it.

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-Yes, that's very true.

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-The 1941 bomb blew out the windows

-and the building was blackened.

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-When Glyn Simon became bishop

-in the mid 1950s...

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-..they were busy restoring

-the cathedral to its former glory.

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-Glyn Simon felt it was a chance

-to do something new and fresh.

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-He wanted to do

-something revolutionary here.

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-There's a huge variety of stones

-in this cathedral...

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-..so he decided to build

-a big concrete arch in the middle.

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-The whole structure

-is made of concrete...

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-..and Epstein's aluminium statue

-of Christ is mounted onto it.

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-This arch and the statue...

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-..add an unexpected and unique twist

-to this cathedral.

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-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

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