Pennod 9 100 Lle


Pennod 9

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-In this episode of 100 Lle...

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-..we admire the clock

-and the ironworks of Tredegar.

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-We discuss photographs of Bryn-mawr

-with Marian Delyth.

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-I visit Butetown

-in the Rhymney Valley...

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-..and John Davies talks about

-Dowlais's glorious industrial past.

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-Our odyssey begins on the banks

-of the River Usk in Newport...

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-..by one of Wales's most remarkable

-architectural features.

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-Here we are, on the famous

-Newport Transporter Bridge.

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-What function

-did this bridge originally have?

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-The transporter bridge signifies...

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-..that the River Usk was important,

-in shipping terms...

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-..when the bridge was built,

-at the turn of the 20th century.

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-A conventional bridge

-wasn't an option...

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-..because it would have interfered

-with tall ships on the Usk.

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-The answer

-was a transporter bridge...

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-..with a gondola suspended from it.

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-The platform is high enough

-for any ship to sail below it.

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-This is one of a handful

-of transporter bridges in the world.

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-The one in Bilbao

-has received World Heritage status.

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-I've seen the one in Bilbao

-and this one is far superior to it.

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-A campaign is needed in Wales

-in the coming years...

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-..to secure World Heritage status

-for the Newport Transporter Bridge.

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-The bridge itself came a bit late.

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-By the time it opened in 1906,

-ships' masts weren't as high.

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-They also used the docks.

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-By the end of the 1900s, the port

-of Newport's golden age was over.

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-That's why it could be argued

-that this bridge was built too late.

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-But it was built,

-and it's an elegant structure.

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-It was restored recently

-and is one of Wales's real gems.

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-I once ventured right to the top.

-I won't do it again!

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-Hop in! I think we're nearly there.

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-It's now one of several bridges

-across the River Usk into Newport.

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-They include the two bridges

-that frame the ruins of the castle.

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-Casnewydd, the Welsh name

-for Newport, means new castle.

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-It was a new castle, compared to

-the Roman fort at Caerleon...

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-..and the Norman motte and bailey

-castle at Stow Hill.

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-The city centre is a dramatic

-patchwork of ruins and buildings...

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-..and of railway tracks and roads.

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-It's worth walking up the steep road

-to the top of Stow Hill...

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-..and to St Woolos Cathedral.

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-St Woolos Cathedral stands

-on the top of Stow Hill, Newport.

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-It's a cathedral by now, but was

-the parish church for centuries.

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-When the Church in Wales

-was disestablished in 1920...

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-..over half the population of Wales

-was in the Diocese of Llandaff.

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-When it was deemed too big,

-a Monmouthshire diocese was created.

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-Some doubted that this church

-was a worthy cathedral...

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-..but it was made

-a temporary cathedral in 1921.

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-The plan then

-was to rebuild Tintern Abbey...

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-..and turn it into a cathedral.

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-However, it would have been

-too expensive...

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-..so they decided to make do with

-this lovely church as a cathedral.

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-It's an interesting building.

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-This is probably the finest

-Romanesque arch in Wales.

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-There are examples

-in Chepstow and in Llandaff...

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-..but this is among the most perfect.

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-There's a suggestion the columns

-were brought here from Caerleon.

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-It's only up the road

-and they may have recycled them here!

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-It's good to use local materials!

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-Several Chartists

-were buried in the cemetery.

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-Yes, a large group of Chartists

-came here in 1839.

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-They came mainly from Blaenau Gwent

-down to Newport...

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-..which was the largest town

-in south-east Wales.

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-They attacked the soldiers,

-who in turn shot back at them.

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-At least 20, if not 40, Chartists

-were killed.

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-Their bodies were smuggled here

-under the cover of darkness...

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-..and were buried in the cemetery.

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-If there is a shrine to democracy

-in Wales or, indeed, in Britain...

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-..I would say

-that it's St Woolos Cemetery.

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-They deserve great credit.

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-Tredegar is famous

-for its ironworks...

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-..and for being the birthplace

-of Aneurin Bevan.

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-The history of the town square

-unites both things.

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-This is the clock,

-in the centre of Tredegar.

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-We can see from this door...

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-..how they raised the funds

-to pay for this clock.

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-Presented to the town of Tredegar

-from the proceeds of a bazaar...

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-..promoted

-by the late Mrs R P Davis.

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-This plaque doesn't tell you

-about the political motive...

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-..behind the decision

-to built this clock tower.

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-Here we have a memorial

-to Wellington.

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-Wellington, England's Hero.

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-But this plaque wasn't put here

-to honour his victory at Waterloo.

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-Wellington was strongly opposed

-to Chartism...

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-..and the Chartists

-met in The Cambrian pub over there.

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-If you want to make a political

-point, this is the place to do it!

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-Aneurin Bevan is the great hero

-of Tredegar, of course.

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-He addressed crowds

-from that balcony.

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-People think he somehow conjured up

-the National Health Service...

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-..but Tredegar did have

-a local health service...

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-..the Tredegar Medical Aid Society.

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-Bevan used it as the template

-for the National Health Service.

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-Aneurin Bevan famously vowed

-to "Tredegarise" Britain.

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-He did just that, fair play to him.

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-The ironworks' owners

-built the clock...

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-..and the ironworks

-gave rise to the town.

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-The remains of the area's

-first ironworks still stand.

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-Sirhowy Ironworks

-was established in 1778.

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-It was the first ironworks

-in the Tredegar area.

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-It was the first to smelt iron

-using coke rather than charcoal...

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-..and that was the key

-to its success.

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-There was an abundance of coal

-in the ground here, of course.

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-Then, in 1805, a tram road

-was built from the Tredegar area...

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-..all the way to Newport,

-which was the nearest port.

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-The 20-kilometre tram road

-cost 40,000...

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-..and the track ended very close

-to the transporter bridge.

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-That was the largest

-transport project in Wales...

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-..until Telford built the A5,

-all the way to Holyhead.

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-Above the ironworks,

-on Waun y Pound...

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-..you can see the marks

-left on the landscape...

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-..by the Industrial Revolution.

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-The memorial

-to a working-class hero is here.

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-A man who left his mark

-on United Kingdom politics.

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-Aneurin Bevan spoke to his

-constituents and the world here.

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-Brynmawr, Wales's highest town...

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-..caught photographer

-Marian Delyth's eye this week.

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-I had fairly firm ideas about what

-I wanted to achieve in Brynmawr.

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-I focused on the industrial element,

-or the post-industrial element.

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-That's because it's so important

-to the town's history.

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-I had also done some research

-on the Semtex Factory.

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-It was built in 1953...

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-..and was one

-of the most pioneering buildings...

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-..to be erected

-in post-war Britain.

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-I wanted to create

-a beautiful image of the building.

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-I began by using plants

-that have been planted opposite it.

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-I came to the conclusion

-that I was cheating, in essence.

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-What I should do was seek out

-the beauty in the architecture.

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-Having decided

-not to use these images...

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-..I then focused my attention

-on the fine detail of the building.

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-I sought to glorify

-those industrial elements...

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-..rather than try to hide them.

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-Things such as the chimney,

-the cables...

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-..and the frames of the windows,

-which are now broken.

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-By getting closer and closer

-to these elements...

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-..I focused on abstract shapes,

-such as the silhouette of the lamps.

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-I eventually decided that the image

-that should appear in the book...

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-..would be the simplest of them all.

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-There's a mural on a gable wall...

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-..in a prominent location

-on Brynmawr town square.

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-I used a detail from that mural

-in the book...

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-..but I'm also fond of this shot

-of the mural in the background...

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-..and cars in the foreground.

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-It's a lovely combination

-of modern transport...

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-..coupled with images of transport

-from the distant past.

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-I wandered the streets

-and the cinema caught my eye.

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-The war memorial

-stands in front of the cinema.

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-This photograph

-was taken in the evening.

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-It captures the hustle and bustle

-of life on the town square.

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-I also took some shots that capture

-the essence of the valleys.

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-Chapels that are now nightclubs

-and small chip shops.

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-Here, you can see signs

-that are typical of the valleys.

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-I haven't taken many photographs

-of the valleys...

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-..but I want to go back there

-because it's very interesting.

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-There was a population explosion

-in the South Wales coalfield...

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-..in the mid 18th century.

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-The population grew from 10,000

-to 500,000 and they needed homes.

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-Houses were built for the workforce

-in Butetown in the Rhymney Valley.

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-You can't miss the Brian Tolle

-sculptures as you enter Butetown.

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-The Twisted Chimney stands

-on the site of the old Bute Works...

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-..as a modern symbol

-of an industrial past.

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-This village was built in 1802

-by Richard Johnson.

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-He owned Union Ironworks.

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-There are only 47 houses here...

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-..but it was meant to be part

-of a far larger development.

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-However, Union Ironworks

-and Bute Ironworks amalgamated...

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-..and that's what put a stop

-to this lovely development.

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-These designs are typical

-of Renaissance architecture.

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-There's a great variety

-within the 47 houses here.

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-There are family homes

-and houses for individuals.

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-There are also homes

-for impoverished families.

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-This village was designed for rich

-and poor to live in harmony.

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-Perhaps the most striking features

-of this development...

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-..were the Egyptian furnaces.

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-They were copies of furnaces

-that were discovered in Egypt.

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-They had columns and pilasters

-and looked really beautiful.

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-Imagine how bizarre a sight those

-Egyptian furnaces must have been.

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-Unfortunately, they're long gone...

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-..but at least the houses

-are still standing.

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-It's amazing

-how close the countryside is...

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-..to the heavy industry

-that was once here.

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-You can appreciate the views...

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-..when you travel on the mountain

-railway from Merthyr.

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-The next stop for me is Dowlais...

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-..where a huge effort has been made

-to mask its industrial past.

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-Dowlais is now a fairly quiet place

-and a mere suburb of Merthyr.

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-But there was a time when Dowlais

-influenced the whole world.

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-There is very little evidence

-of Dowlais's industrial heyday...

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-..during the mid 19th century.

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-Humans rather than horses

-now live in the stables.

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-The magnificent Dowlais Reading Room

-is now a club or a pub.

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-What's left of the pump house

-is a gym.

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-Why did you include it in the book?

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-Because there was nowhere to compare

-to Dowlais in the mid 19th century.

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-When John Josiah Guest died in 1852,

-he employed over 7,000 people.

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-He employed more people than anyone

-in the world at that time.

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-There were 14 furnaces, the remains

-of which lie beneath our feet.

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-No works on that scale had existed

-in the history of mankind.

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-We're surrounded by the processes

-that transformed the world.

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-I'd like to erect a sign

-on Dowlais Top proclaiming...

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-..Welcome To The Cradle

-Of The New World...

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-..to emphasize

-just how important Dowlais is.

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-The blast furnace over there

-is the only remaining building...

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-..that was an essential part

-of the process.

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-That's where the energy was created

-to produce hot air...

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-..to raise the temperature

-within the furnaces.

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-Exports from here

-went all over the world.

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-Iron was carried to Cardiff

-on the canal and later by rail...

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-..and exported to almost

-every country in the world.

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-For example, the railway tracks

-from Moscow to St Petersburg...

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-..were actually created here.

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-If you read Anna Karenina

-by Tolstoy...

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-..she throws herself

-in front of the train in the end.

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-She would have fallen on tracks

-bearing the legend GL - Guest Lewis.

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-That was the trademark of Dowlais.

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-It would have been stamped

-through the iron, like Pwllheli Rock.

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-If you go to Turkey, Spain, Germany

-and almost any other country...

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-..you'll see train tracks

-produced in Dowlais.

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-Back then, everyone in the world

-knew about Merthyr and Dowlais.

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-It's as though they've gone out of

-their way to erase their heritage.

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-I think it's very sad.

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-You can see much more

-at the old Cyfarthfa Ironworks...

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-..that belonged

-to the Crawshay family.

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-There's nothing to see in Dowlais.

-It's all been buried.

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-The glorious past of Dowlais

-has been destroyed.

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-Shame on the people

-of Merthyr Tydfil.

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-It's great to see an old

-industrial building put to good use.

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-The pump house

-is used by local youngsters.

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-As we leave Dowlais...

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-..we see a structure that dominates

-the landscape in Cefncoedycymer.

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-This programme ends

-on the outskirts of Merthyr Tydfil.

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-Yes, we're standing

-on the viaduct...

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-..that carried

-the Merthyr to Brecon railway.

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-This viaduct was built in 1866...

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-..and it carried the railway

-until the 1960s.

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-It was used for a century.

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-This is the largest viaduct

-in the whole of Wales.

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-It's 770 feet long and stands

-125 feet above the Taf Fawr river.

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-I think it's the most beautiful

-and elegant viaduct in Wales...

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-..but someone from Pont-rhyd-y-fen

-may disagree!

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-Pont-rhyd-y-fen had three of them!

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-Pont-rhyd-y-fen had three of them!

-

-Let's not pursue that point.

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-Having been to Dowlais

-and Merthyr as a whole...

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-..you realize how much of its

-industrial heritage has been lost.

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-It's wonderful to see this viaduct

-still standing proudly here.

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-It's one of our country's

-most magnificent antiquities.

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-Yes. I won't argue with that.

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-It's not as good as Pont-rhyd-y-fen,

-mind you!

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-I knew you'd say that! Hmm!

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-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

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-.

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