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-In this episode of 100 Lle... | 0:00:24 | 0:00:26 | |
-..we admire the clock -and the ironworks of Tredegar. | 0:00:27 | 0:00:31 | |
-We discuss photographs of Bryn-mawr -with Marian Delyth. | 0:00:32 | 0:00:35 | |
-I visit Butetown -in the Rhymney Valley... | 0:00:36 | 0:00:39 | |
-..and John Davies talks about -Dowlais's glorious industrial past. | 0:00:40 | 0:00:45 | |
-Our odyssey begins on the banks -of the River Usk in Newport... | 0:00:46 | 0:00:51 | |
-..by one of Wales's most remarkable -architectural features. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:56 | |
-Here we are, on the famous -Newport Transporter Bridge. | 0:01:18 | 0:01:22 | |
-What function -did this bridge originally have? | 0:01:22 | 0:01:25 | |
-The transporter bridge signifies... | 0:01:26 | 0:01:29 | |
-..that the River Usk was important, -in shipping terms... | 0:01:29 | 0:01:33 | |
-..when the bridge was built, -at the turn of the 20th century. | 0:01:33 | 0:01:37 | |
-A conventional bridge -wasn't an option... | 0:01:38 | 0:01:41 | |
-..because it would have interfered -with tall ships on the Usk. | 0:01:41 | 0:01:45 | |
-The answer -was a transporter bridge... | 0:01:45 | 0:01:48 | |
-..with a gondola suspended from it. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:52 | |
-The platform is high enough -for any ship to sail below it. | 0:01:52 | 0:01:55 | |
-This is one of a handful -of transporter bridges in the world. | 0:01:56 | 0:02:02 | |
-The one in Bilbao -has received World Heritage status. | 0:02:02 | 0:02:06 | |
-I've seen the one in Bilbao -and this one is far superior to it. | 0:02:06 | 0:02:11 | |
-A campaign is needed in Wales -in the coming years... | 0:02:11 | 0:02:15 | |
-..to secure World Heritage status -for the Newport Transporter Bridge. | 0:02:15 | 0:02:21 | |
-The bridge itself came a bit late. | 0:02:22 | 0:02:24 | |
-By the time it opened in 1906, -ships' masts weren't as high. | 0:02:24 | 0:02:29 | |
-They also used the docks. | 0:02:31 | 0:02:33 | |
-By the end of the 1900s, the port -of Newport's golden age was over. | 0:02:34 | 0:02:38 | |
-That's why it could be argued -that this bridge was built too late. | 0:02:38 | 0:02:43 | |
-But it was built, -and it's an elegant structure. | 0:02:43 | 0:02:48 | |
-It was restored recently -and is one of Wales's real gems. | 0:02:48 | 0:02:52 | |
-I once ventured right to the top. -I won't do it again! | 0:02:53 | 0:02:57 | |
-Hop in! I think we're nearly there. | 0:02:57 | 0:03:00 | |
-It's now one of several bridges -across the River Usk into Newport. | 0:03:14 | 0:03:18 | |
-They include the two bridges -that frame the ruins of the castle. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:25 | |
-Casnewydd, the Welsh name -for Newport, means new castle. | 0:03:26 | 0:03:30 | |
-It was a new castle, compared to -the Roman fort at Caerleon... | 0:03:30 | 0:03:35 | |
-..and the Norman motte and bailey -castle at Stow Hill. | 0:03:35 | 0:03:39 | |
-The city centre is a dramatic -patchwork of ruins and buildings... | 0:03:48 | 0:03:53 | |
-..and of railway tracks and roads. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:55 | |
-It's worth walking up the steep road -to the top of Stow Hill... | 0:03:56 | 0:04:01 | |
-..and to St Woolos Cathedral. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
-St Woolos Cathedral stands -on the top of Stow Hill, Newport. | 0:04:06 | 0:04:12 | |
-It's a cathedral by now, but was -the parish church for centuries. | 0:04:12 | 0:04:18 | |
-When the Church in Wales -was disestablished in 1920... | 0:04:18 | 0:04:22 | |
-..over half the population of Wales -was in the Diocese of Llandaff. | 0:04:23 | 0:04:27 | |
-When it was deemed too big, -a Monmouthshire diocese was created. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:33 | |
-Some doubted that this church -was a worthy cathedral... | 0:04:34 | 0:04:37 | |
-..but it was made -a temporary cathedral in 1921. | 0:04:37 | 0:04:41 | |
-The plan then -was to rebuild Tintern Abbey... | 0:04:42 | 0:04:45 | |
-..and turn it into a cathedral. | 0:04:45 | 0:04:48 | |
-However, it would have been -too expensive... | 0:04:49 | 0:04:52 | |
-..so they decided to make do with -this lovely church as a cathedral. | 0:04:52 | 0:04:57 | |
-It's an interesting building. | 0:04:58 | 0:05:00 | |
-This is probably the finest -Romanesque arch in Wales. | 0:05:00 | 0:05:05 | |
-There are examples -in Chepstow and in Llandaff... | 0:05:06 | 0:05:09 | |
-..but this is among the most perfect. | 0:05:10 | 0:05:13 | |
-There's a suggestion the columns -were brought here from Caerleon. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:18 | |
-It's only up the road -and they may have recycled them here! | 0:05:19 | 0:05:23 | |
-It's good to use local materials! | 0:05:23 | 0:05:25 | |
-Several Chartists -were buried in the cemetery. | 0:05:26 | 0:05:29 | |
-Yes, a large group of Chartists -came here in 1839. | 0:05:30 | 0:05:33 | |
-They came mainly from Blaenau Gwent -down to Newport... | 0:05:33 | 0:05:37 | |
-..which was the largest town -in south-east Wales. | 0:05:37 | 0:05:41 | |
-They attacked the soldiers, -who in turn shot back at them. | 0:05:41 | 0:05:46 | |
-At least 20, if not 40, Chartists -were killed. | 0:05:47 | 0:05:50 | |
-Their bodies were smuggled here -under the cover of darkness... | 0:05:50 | 0:05:55 | |
-..and were buried in the cemetery. | 0:05:55 | 0:05:57 | |
-If there is a shrine to democracy -in Wales or, indeed, in Britain... | 0:05:58 | 0:06:02 | |
-..I would say -that it's St Woolos Cemetery. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:06 | |
-They deserve great credit. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:10 | |
-Tredegar is famous -for its ironworks... | 0:06:17 | 0:06:21 | |
-..and for being the birthplace -of Aneurin Bevan. | 0:06:22 | 0:06:25 | |
-The history of the town square -unites both things. | 0:06:26 | 0:06:29 | |
-This is the clock, -in the centre of Tredegar. | 0:06:40 | 0:06:43 | |
-We can see from this door... | 0:06:43 | 0:06:45 | |
-..how they raised the funds -to pay for this clock. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:49 | |
-Presented to the town of Tredegar -from the proceeds of a bazaar... | 0:06:50 | 0:06:54 | |
-..promoted -by the late Mrs R P Davis. | 0:06:54 | 0:06:57 | |
-This plaque doesn't tell you -about the political motive... | 0:06:58 | 0:07:02 | |
-..behind the decision -to built this clock tower. | 0:07:02 | 0:07:06 | |
-Here we have a memorial -to Wellington. | 0:07:09 | 0:07:13 | |
-Wellington, England's Hero. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:16 | |
-But this plaque wasn't put here -to honour his victory at Waterloo. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:21 | |
-Wellington was strongly opposed -to Chartism... | 0:07:22 | 0:07:25 | |
-..and the Chartists -met in The Cambrian pub over there. | 0:07:26 | 0:07:30 | |
-If you want to make a political -point, this is the place to do it! | 0:07:30 | 0:07:34 | |
-Aneurin Bevan is the great hero -of Tredegar, of course. | 0:07:44 | 0:07:48 | |
-He addressed crowds -from that balcony. | 0:07:48 | 0:07:51 | |
-People think he somehow conjured up -the National Health Service... | 0:07:51 | 0:07:56 | |
-..but Tredegar did have -a local health service... | 0:07:57 | 0:08:01 | |
-..the Tredegar Medical Aid Society. | 0:08:01 | 0:08:04 | |
-Bevan used it as the template -for the National Health Service. | 0:08:05 | 0:08:09 | |
-Aneurin Bevan famously vowed -to "Tredegarise" Britain. | 0:08:09 | 0:08:15 | |
-He did just that, fair play to him. | 0:08:15 | 0:08:17 | |
-The ironworks' owners -built the clock... | 0:08:21 | 0:08:24 | |
-..and the ironworks -gave rise to the town. | 0:08:25 | 0:08:28 | |
-The remains of the area's -first ironworks still stand. | 0:08:28 | 0:08:34 | |
-Sirhowy Ironworks -was established in 1778. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:42 | |
-It was the first ironworks -in the Tredegar area. | 0:08:42 | 0:08:45 | |
-It was the first to smelt iron -using coke rather than charcoal... | 0:08:46 | 0:08:50 | |
-..and that was the key -to its success. | 0:08:51 | 0:08:54 | |
-There was an abundance of coal -in the ground here, of course. | 0:08:54 | 0:08:58 | |
-Then, in 1805, a tram road -was built from the Tredegar area... | 0:08:58 | 0:09:03 | |
-..all the way to Newport, -which was the nearest port. | 0:09:03 | 0:09:07 | |
-The 20-kilometre tram road -cost 40,000... | 0:09:07 | 0:09:12 | |
-..and the track ended very close -to the transporter bridge. | 0:09:13 | 0:09:17 | |
-That was the largest -transport project in Wales... | 0:09:17 | 0:09:21 | |
-..until Telford built the A5, -all the way to Holyhead. | 0:09:22 | 0:09:26 | |
-Above the ironworks, -on Waun y Pound... | 0:09:50 | 0:09:53 | |
-..you can see the marks -left on the landscape... | 0:09:53 | 0:09:57 | |
-..by the Industrial Revolution. | 0:09:57 | 0:09:59 | |
-The memorial -to a working-class hero is here. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:03 | |
-A man who left his mark -on United Kingdom politics. | 0:10:03 | 0:10:08 | |
-Aneurin Bevan spoke to his -constituents and the world here. | 0:10:08 | 0:10:12 | |
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-Brynmawr, Wales's highest town... | 0:10:36 | 0:10:39 | |
-..caught photographer -Marian Delyth's eye this week. | 0:10:39 | 0:10:43 | |
-I had fairly firm ideas about what -I wanted to achieve in Brynmawr. | 0:10:45 | 0:10:51 | |
-I focused on the industrial element, -or the post-industrial element. | 0:10:52 | 0:10:57 | |
-That's because it's so important -to the town's history. | 0:10:57 | 0:11:01 | |
-I had also done some research -on the Semtex Factory. | 0:11:02 | 0:11:06 | |
-It was built in 1953... | 0:11:06 | 0:11:08 | |
-..and was one -of the most pioneering buildings... | 0:11:09 | 0:11:13 | |
-..to be erected -in post-war Britain. | 0:11:13 | 0:11:17 | |
-I wanted to create -a beautiful image of the building. | 0:11:18 | 0:11:22 | |
-I began by using plants -that have been planted opposite it. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:28 | |
-I came to the conclusion -that I was cheating, in essence. | 0:11:29 | 0:11:33 | |
-What I should do was seek out -the beauty in the architecture. | 0:11:33 | 0:11:38 | |
-Having decided -not to use these images... | 0:11:42 | 0:11:45 | |
-..I then focused my attention -on the fine detail of the building. | 0:11:46 | 0:11:50 | |
-I sought to glorify -those industrial elements... | 0:11:53 | 0:11:56 | |
-..rather than try to hide them. | 0:11:57 | 0:11:59 | |
-Things such as the chimney, -the cables... | 0:11:59 | 0:12:02 | |
-..and the frames of the windows, -which are now broken. | 0:12:02 | 0:12:06 | |
-By getting closer and closer -to these elements... | 0:12:10 | 0:12:13 | |
-..I focused on abstract shapes, -such as the silhouette of the lamps. | 0:12:13 | 0:12:19 | |
-I eventually decided that the image -that should appear in the book... | 0:12:20 | 0:12:25 | |
-..would be the simplest of them all. | 0:12:26 | 0:12:29 | |
-There's a mural on a gable wall... | 0:12:37 | 0:12:40 | |
-..in a prominent location -on Brynmawr town square. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:44 | |
-I used a detail from that mural -in the book... | 0:12:45 | 0:12:48 | |
-..but I'm also fond of this shot -of the mural in the background... | 0:12:48 | 0:12:53 | |
-..and cars in the foreground. | 0:12:53 | 0:12:56 | |
-It's a lovely combination -of modern transport... | 0:12:56 | 0:13:00 | |
-..coupled with images of transport -from the distant past. | 0:13:00 | 0:13:04 | |
-I wandered the streets -and the cinema caught my eye. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:18 | |
-The war memorial -stands in front of the cinema. | 0:13:18 | 0:13:22 | |
-This photograph -was taken in the evening. | 0:13:22 | 0:13:25 | |
-It captures the hustle and bustle -of life on the town square. | 0:13:25 | 0:13:30 | |
-I also took some shots that capture -the essence of the valleys. | 0:13:31 | 0:13:36 | |
-Chapels that are now nightclubs -and small chip shops. | 0:13:36 | 0:13:40 | |
-Here, you can see signs -that are typical of the valleys. | 0:13:41 | 0:13:46 | |
-I haven't taken many photographs -of the valleys... | 0:13:48 | 0:13:51 | |
-..but I want to go back there -because it's very interesting. | 0:13:51 | 0:13:56 | |
-There was a population explosion -in the South Wales coalfield... | 0:14:01 | 0:14:06 | |
-..in the mid 18th century. | 0:14:06 | 0:14:08 | |
-The population grew from 10,000 -to 500,000 and they needed homes. | 0:14:08 | 0:14:13 | |
-Houses were built for the workforce -in Butetown in the Rhymney Valley. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:17 | |
-You can't miss the Brian Tolle -sculptures as you enter Butetown. | 0:14:25 | 0:14:29 | |
-The Twisted Chimney stands -on the site of the old Bute Works... | 0:14:30 | 0:14:34 | |
-..as a modern symbol -of an industrial past. | 0:14:34 | 0:14:37 | |
-This village was built in 1802 -by Richard Johnson. | 0:15:02 | 0:15:05 | |
-He owned Union Ironworks. | 0:15:06 | 0:15:07 | |
-There are only 47 houses here... | 0:15:08 | 0:15:10 | |
-..but it was meant to be part -of a far larger development. | 0:15:10 | 0:15:14 | |
-However, Union Ironworks -and Bute Ironworks amalgamated... | 0:15:14 | 0:15:19 | |
-..and that's what put a stop -to this lovely development. | 0:15:19 | 0:15:23 | |
-These designs are typical -of Renaissance architecture. | 0:15:23 | 0:15:27 | |
-There's a great variety -within the 47 houses here. | 0:15:28 | 0:15:31 | |
-There are family homes -and houses for individuals. | 0:15:32 | 0:15:36 | |
-There are also homes -for impoverished families. | 0:15:36 | 0:15:40 | |
-This village was designed for rich -and poor to live in harmony. | 0:15:40 | 0:15:45 | |
-Perhaps the most striking features -of this development... | 0:16:08 | 0:16:12 | |
-..were the Egyptian furnaces. | 0:16:13 | 0:16:15 | |
-They were copies of furnaces -that were discovered in Egypt. | 0:16:16 | 0:16:20 | |
-They had columns and pilasters -and looked really beautiful. | 0:16:22 | 0:16:27 | |
-Imagine how bizarre a sight those -Egyptian furnaces must have been. | 0:16:28 | 0:16:33 | |
-Unfortunately, they're long gone... | 0:16:33 | 0:16:36 | |
-..but at least the houses -are still standing. | 0:16:36 | 0:16:39 | |
-It's amazing -how close the countryside is... | 0:17:06 | 0:17:10 | |
-..to the heavy industry -that was once here. | 0:17:11 | 0:17:14 | |
-You can appreciate the views... | 0:17:14 | 0:17:17 | |
-..when you travel on the mountain -railway from Merthyr. | 0:17:17 | 0:17:21 | |
-The next stop for me is Dowlais... | 0:17:21 | 0:17:23 | |
-..where a huge effort has been made -to mask its industrial past. | 0:17:23 | 0:17:28 | |
-Dowlais is now a fairly quiet place -and a mere suburb of Merthyr. | 0:17:39 | 0:17:44 | |
-But there was a time when Dowlais -influenced the whole world. | 0:17:45 | 0:17:49 | |
-There is very little evidence -of Dowlais's industrial heyday... | 0:17:54 | 0:17:59 | |
-..during the mid 19th century. | 0:17:59 | 0:18:02 | |
-Humans rather than horses -now live in the stables. | 0:18:02 | 0:18:06 | |
-The magnificent Dowlais Reading Room -is now a club or a pub. | 0:18:06 | 0:18:11 | |
-What's left of the pump house -is a gym. | 0:18:12 | 0:18:15 | |
-Why did you include it in the book? | 0:18:15 | 0:18:18 | |
-Because there was nowhere to compare -to Dowlais in the mid 19th century. | 0:18:18 | 0:18:24 | |
-When John Josiah Guest died in 1852, -he employed over 7,000 people. | 0:18:24 | 0:18:30 | |
-He employed more people than anyone -in the world at that time. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:35 | |
-There were 14 furnaces, the remains -of which lie beneath our feet. | 0:18:35 | 0:18:40 | |
-No works on that scale had existed -in the history of mankind. | 0:18:40 | 0:18:45 | |
-We're surrounded by the processes -that transformed the world. | 0:18:46 | 0:18:50 | |
-I'd like to erect a sign -on Dowlais Top proclaiming... | 0:18:50 | 0:18:54 | |
-..Welcome To The Cradle -Of The New World... | 0:18:54 | 0:18:58 | |
-..to emphasize -just how important Dowlais is. | 0:18:58 | 0:19:02 | |
-The blast furnace over there -is the only remaining building... | 0:19:02 | 0:19:07 | |
-..that was an essential part -of the process. | 0:19:08 | 0:19:11 | |
-That's where the energy was created -to produce hot air... | 0:19:12 | 0:19:16 | |
-..to raise the temperature -within the furnaces. | 0:19:17 | 0:19:20 | |
-Exports from here -went all over the world. | 0:19:20 | 0:19:24 | |
-Iron was carried to Cardiff -on the canal and later by rail... | 0:19:24 | 0:19:28 | |
-..and exported to almost -every country in the world. | 0:19:29 | 0:19:33 | |
-For example, the railway tracks -from Moscow to St Petersburg... | 0:19:33 | 0:19:38 | |
-..were actually created here. | 0:19:38 | 0:19:40 | |
-If you read Anna Karenina -by Tolstoy... | 0:19:43 | 0:19:45 | |
-..she throws herself -in front of the train in the end. | 0:19:46 | 0:19:49 | |
-She would have fallen on tracks -bearing the legend GL - Guest Lewis. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:54 | |
-That was the trademark of Dowlais. | 0:19:54 | 0:19:57 | |
-It would have been stamped -through the iron, like Pwllheli Rock. | 0:19:57 | 0:20:02 | |
-If you go to Turkey, Spain, Germany -and almost any other country... | 0:20:05 | 0:20:10 | |
-..you'll see train tracks -produced in Dowlais. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:14 | |
-Back then, everyone in the world -knew about Merthyr and Dowlais. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:20 | |
-It's as though they've gone out of -their way to erase their heritage. | 0:20:21 | 0:20:26 | |
-I think it's very sad. | 0:20:26 | 0:20:28 | |
-You can see much more -at the old Cyfarthfa Ironworks... | 0:20:28 | 0:20:32 | |
-..that belonged -to the Crawshay family. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:35 | |
-There's nothing to see in Dowlais. -It's all been buried. | 0:20:36 | 0:20:40 | |
-The glorious past of Dowlais -has been destroyed. | 0:20:40 | 0:20:43 | |
-Shame on the people -of Merthyr Tydfil. | 0:20:44 | 0:20:46 | |
-It's great to see an old -industrial building put to good use. | 0:21:03 | 0:21:08 | |
-The pump house -is used by local youngsters. | 0:21:08 | 0:21:11 | |
-As we leave Dowlais... | 0:21:12 | 0:21:14 | |
-..we see a structure that dominates -the landscape in Cefncoedycymer. | 0:21:14 | 0:21:19 | |
-This programme ends -on the outskirts of Merthyr Tydfil. | 0:21:40 | 0:21:44 | |
-Yes, we're standing -on the viaduct... | 0:21:45 | 0:21:48 | |
-..that carried -the Merthyr to Brecon railway. | 0:21:48 | 0:21:52 | |
-This viaduct was built in 1866... | 0:21:54 | 0:21:56 | |
-..and it carried the railway -until the 1960s. | 0:21:56 | 0:22:00 | |
-It was used for a century. | 0:22:02 | 0:22:04 | |
-This is the largest viaduct -in the whole of Wales. | 0:22:05 | 0:22:08 | |
-It's 770 feet long and stands -125 feet above the Taf Fawr river. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:15 | |
-I think it's the most beautiful -and elegant viaduct in Wales... | 0:22:15 | 0:22:20 | |
-..but someone from Pont-rhyd-y-fen -may disagree! | 0:22:20 | 0:22:23 | |
-Pont-rhyd-y-fen had three of them! | 0:22:24 | 0:22:26 | |
-Pont-rhyd-y-fen had three of them! - -Let's not pursue that point. | 0:22:26 | 0:22:28 | |
-Having been to Dowlais -and Merthyr as a whole... | 0:22:28 | 0:22:32 | |
-..you realize how much of its -industrial heritage has been lost. | 0:22:32 | 0:22:37 | |
-It's wonderful to see this viaduct -still standing proudly here. | 0:22:37 | 0:22:42 | |
-It's one of our country's -most magnificent antiquities. | 0:22:43 | 0:22:47 | |
-Yes. I won't argue with that. | 0:22:48 | 0:22:50 | |
-It's not as good as Pont-rhyd-y-fen, -mind you! | 0:22:50 | 0:22:53 | |
-I knew you'd say that! Hmm! | 0:22:54 | 0:22:56 | |
-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones | 0:23:34 | 0:23:37 | |
-. | 0:23:37 | 0:23:37 |