Pennod 8 100 Lle


Pennod 8

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-In this episode of 100 Lle, we visit

-Tretower in the old Brecknockshire.

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-We talk about photographs

-of Cardigan taken by Marian Delyth.

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-I'll look

-at the attractions of Brecon...

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-..before joining Dr John Davies at

-Garn Goch and Carreg Cennen Castle.

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-There is no more beautiful sight...

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-..than the approach to Llandeilo

-across the bridge from Ffair-fach.

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-I should know - I live here!

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-We're standing in the cemetery

-in the centre of Llandeilo, John.

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-This cemetery was split in two

-by a new road in the 19th century.

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-Its size suggests that it has been

-a sacred place for centuries.

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-Its circular shape suggests

-it had ritual significance...

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-..even before

-the birth of Christianity.

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-Llandeilo is, of course,

-named after Saint Teilo.

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-He was one of the great saints

-of the Celtic and Welsh tradition.

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-Like Saint David,

-Teilo was a 6th century saint.

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-By the 12th century, 25 Welsh parish

-churches were dedicated to Teilo...

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-..but there was only one

-Llandeilo Fawr, or Great Llandeilo.

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-The people of Llandeilo love paint!

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-Llandeilo is almost as attractive

-as Aberaeron and Llandovery!

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-It's definitely improving!

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-Thank you!

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-The main attraction at St Teilo's

-Church is the exhibition...

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-..covering the history and contents

-of the St Chad Gospels.

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-This 9th century book is now kept

-at St Chad's Cathedral, Lichfield.

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-It's believed that the altar

-at Llandeilo was its original home.

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-This is how the book looks.

-We can turn its 236 pages.

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-It consists of the Latin text

-of the gospels of Matthew and Mark...

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-..and part of that of Luke.

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-Some believe that this document

-was compiled here in Llandeilo.

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-Parts of it are so similar to what

-was compiled on Lindisfarne...

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-..that it may come from the school

-based on Ireland and Lindisfarne.

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-That's probably where it originated,

-but it came to Llandeilo.

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-Or, at least,

-it came to the altar of St Teilo...

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-..which some interpret

-as a reference to Llandaff.

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-Notes in the margins

-suggest connections with this area...

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-..so I believe it was kept

-on the altar in Llandeilo.

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-They copied manuscripts

-in St David's at the time...

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-..but nothing of this standard

-has survived...

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-..from any other part of Wales,

-other than Llandeilo Fawr.

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-Did they swear oaths

-on this document?

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-Yes, you placed your hand upon it

-to swear an oath.

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-Paper had disappeared from western

-Europe by the ninth century...

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-..so they used treated calves' skin

-as writing material.

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-It was expensive stuff...

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-..so if there was a blank space,

-they'd write on that as well.

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-Things such as land deeds

-were written in the margins.

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-You can see the pages turn

-and they're all beautifully neat...

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-..but later in the book,

-the space at the end of a chapter...

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-..has been used to make notes.

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-Interestingly, the notes

-are written in Welsh.

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-It's in the local dialect

-and records a land dispute.

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-Later in the book,

-the notes are in English.

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-That suggests

-it was taken to England...

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-..where they carried on scribbling.

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-This is among the earliest surviving

-examples of written Welsh.

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-It's now in Lichfield

-and that's wrong.

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-Dinefwr Park, which stands

-above Llandeilo...

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-..was probably the chief centre

-of the kingdom of Ystrad Tywi.

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-According to some, the kingdom

-existed during Teilo's lifetime.

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-This is Dinefwr Castle.

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-It's fair to say this isn't

-the first building erected here.

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-No, an Iron Age fortress

-and two Roman fortresses stood here.

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-This was always seen

-as a strategic stronghold.

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-Dinefwr borders Llandeilo...

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-..and Llandeilo had grown

-as a spiritual centre.

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-The military centre

-must have been in Dinefwr.

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-This castle was commissioned

-in the 12th century.

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-Work was completed

-in the 13th century.

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-Lord Rhys and his descendants

-carried out the work.

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-The round keep was built

-by descendants of Lord Rhys...

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-..and it was completed

-in around 1240.

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-A belvedere was built

-on top of the keep in around 1660.

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-This was built

-by the Rhys or Rice family...

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-..that later held

-the Dynevor peerage.

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-This is the only place to see

-Welsh sovereignty built in stone.

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-The jewel in the crown of the castle

-and of Newton House is this park.

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-Yes, and this is

-a very interesting park.

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-There was a Welsh borough

-on the slopes near the castle.

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-That borough disappeared...

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-..but Newton House still stands.

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-There were two Roman fortresses

-beyond it.

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-The woodlands are splendid.

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-They were landscaped

-by Capability Brown...

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-..in the 18th century.

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-Some say that he worked hard here...

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-..but rumour has it he spent

-most of his time drinking wine!

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-Local people

-take great pride in this park.

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-You're a local. Do you see the park

-as part of your heritage?

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-Yes - it belongs to us.

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-Yes - it belongs to us.

-

-Absolutely.

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-Next, to Tretower, Brecknockshire.

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-This is the best place to study

-the evolution of the dwellings...

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-..of the powerful families

-of medieval Wales.

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-A motte was built

-by one of the knights...

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-..assisting Bernard de Neufmarche...

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-..in the task of destroying

-the kingdom of Brycheiniog.

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-What we see here

-is 300 years of history.

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-Monsieur Picard came here

-in the 11th century...

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-..and he built the motte.

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-He also built a timber palisade,

-or a timber castle, around it.

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-It was a wooden curtain wall,

-in effect.

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-Fifty years later, his son, John,

-built a stone curtain wall.

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-Then, in the 13th century...

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-..the curtain walls

-were demolished...

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-..and the motte was surrounded

-by a tall masonry tower.

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-This gave Tretower its name,

-of course.

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-As time went on,

-enemies faded away...

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-..and the family didn't need

-a fortified castle.

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-That's when the priority shifted

-from a fortified home...

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-..to a more sophisticated dwelling,

-Tretower Court.

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-This is the best example in Wales

-of a 15th century gentry house.

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-When you look at the rooms,

-it's easy to see why a hall house...

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-..was more appealing than the tower

-and the castle.

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-This is the guest wing

-and this was the guest lounge.

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-Guests would sleep at the far end

-of what is now one long room.

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-The wooden partition walls

-have disappeared.

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-There was a partition wall here.

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-The beams on this side

-of the room were painted red...

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-..but were plain on the other side,

-so they were two separate rooms.

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-Leaves had been painted

-in the two corner quadrants.

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-That suggests

-this was an ornate room.

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-You get a stronger suggestion

-of just how ornate it was...

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-..downstairs in the great hall.

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-These are the sorts of ornate,

-decorative touches I mean.

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-This colourful piece

-is a copy, of course...

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-..but it's the kind of thing

-that was here originally.

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-The decorative ceiling

-adds to the hall's sumptuous feel.

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-The wind braces

-add something to the room.

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-Tretower has been restored to its

-15th century glory, through Cadw.

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-It deserves its place among the

-100 places to see before you die.

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-This week, Marian Delyth's camera...

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-..focuses on the events

-and traditions of Cardigan.

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-In the book, John says...

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-..that 300 ships were registered

-in the port of Cardigan in 1816.

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-Both banks of the river

-were lined with warehouses.

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-Having heard that, it's natural

-for us to start with this image...

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-..of the river

-running through Cardigan.

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-Yes, it puts the place

-in its context.

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-It's a record of the importance

-of the river.

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-The small photograph shows

-two warehouses that still stand.

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-I've tried to include

-a variety of images in the book.

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-Where there was an opportunity

-to include shots of people...

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-..I seized that opportunity.

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-There was ample opportunity

-in Cardigan.

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-Barley Saturday

-is such an important event.

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-The highlight of the day...

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-..is when the horses, which have

-been judged during the day...

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-..run through the streets.

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-Thousands of people

-come out to watch them.

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-The town comes alive.

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-I think it's a very exciting event.

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-I've attended Barley Saturday

-several times.

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-I wanted to express

-that atmosphere in my photographs.

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-This is the photograph

-I eventually chose.

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-It fills a whole page in the book.

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-It expresses the excitement

-and the tension of the event.

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-It's no easy task to lead

-strong horses through the streets.

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-There's a performance area

-on the riverbank in Cardigan.

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-Yes, it was redeveloped recently.

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-It's a wonderful space

-in which to hold events.

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-A poem by Ceri Wyn Jones

-has been carved into the stone.

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-The Welsh National Folk Dance

-Society was in Cardigan that day...

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-..to celebrate its 60th anniversary.

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-As I recorded that event...

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-..I also spotted a tiny detail,

-as you can see here.

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-As I take photographs, my eye

-is often drawn to a minute detail.

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-It could be a busy scene,

-but I'll pick up on something small.

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-I like the pattern of the lace

-against the pattern of the pavement.

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-It's not in the book because

-it says nothing about Cardigan...

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-..but I'm fond of it as an image.

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-It's wonderful.

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-Welcome to Brecon.

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-This Norman town was built

-in the 11th century...

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-..by Bernard de Neufmarche,

-William the Conqueror's brother.

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-Much has happened in Brecon

-since then.

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-De Neufmarche chose rising land

-on the River Honddu's west bank...

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-..for his castle,

-his fortified town and his church.

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-This trio was central to the power

-of the Marcher Lords.

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-The church was moved

-to the top of the hill.

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-The priory is now the cathedral

-of the Diocese of Swansea & Brecon.

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-There was a church in the castle,

-but this Benedictine priory...

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-..was moved north of the castle

-and had its own fortifications.

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-This happened in around 1200.

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-It took 150 years

-to build this church.

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-It sounds like a long time...

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-..but isn't long at all

-in terms of cathedrals.

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-Apart from some minor changes

-carried out in Victorian times...

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-..this is amazingly untouched.

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-Incredibly, the buildings

-linked with the priory...

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-..survived the Dissolution

-of the Monasteries.

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-When it became a cathedral

-during the 20th century...

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-..it offered a home for the dean

-and an administrative centre.

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-Unlike many other Welsh towns...

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-..Brecon spread eastwards

-rather than westwards.

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-The town centre is now in the area

-around St Mary's Church.

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-There's evidence within the church

-that it is a Norman building...

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-..but that's a military tower,

-which isn't original to the church.

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-The canal basin is worth a visit.

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-You can imagine the barges...

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-..that brought new life

-to Brecon in the 1790s.

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-You can also visit

-a special military building.

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-Before you leave Brecon...

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-..the South Wales Borderers Museum

-is worth a visit.

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-Among the exhibits is the tale

-of the Battle of Rorke's Drift.

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-That's the battle

-featured in the film Zulu.

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-Exhibited in this museum

-are Victoria Crosses...

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-..awarded to soldiers

-who took part in that battle.

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-This one belonged to

-Lieutenant Gonville Bromhead.

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-He was the character played

-by Michael Caine in the film.

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-If you wanted to buy

-these two medals today...

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-..you'd have to part with 500,000.

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-But this is their home

-and they'll stay here in Brecon.

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-Above Bethlehem, near Llangadog,

-is the largest hill fort in Wales.

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-The Iron Age fort of Garn Goch.

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-If the reason

-for building a fort on a hill...

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-..is being able to see easily

-in all directions...

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-..Garn Goch certainly ticks the box.

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-Yes, and it's a very large hill fort.

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-It covers an area of around 30 acres.

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-It's the largest hill fort in Wales.

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-It's 1.5 miles around its perimeter.

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-There are nine openings

-such as this one in the walls.

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-They allow people to go in and out.

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-There may have been

-some sort of gate here...

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-..to keep out the enemy.

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-Its sheer size is very striking.

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-If there were houses

-in every part of the fort...

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-..it was even bigger than Llandeilo!

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-No detailed research

-has been carried out here.

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-Until the National Park workers

-cut the bracken recently...

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-..you couldn't see a thing here.

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-Some outstanding work

-has been done recently.

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-Having said that, there were

-very few large hill forts...

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-..in the territory of the Demetae

-in south-west Wales.

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-There was once an assumption

-that the Demetae were smallholders...

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-..and that there was

-no central authority.

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-This was clearly

-the Demetae's chief stronghold.

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-The Demetae rulers lived here

-around 300 years before Christ.

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-It's an Iron Age hill fort,

-making it almost 2,500 years old.

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-If detailed archaeological work

-was carried out here...

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-..it would be one of the most

-interesting locations in Wales.

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-There's one more notable feature

-on the slopes.

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-A monolith

-to commemorate Gwynfor Evans.

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-Garn Goch was Gwynfor Evans's

-favourite place in the world.

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-His ashes were scattered here...

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-..and this huge chunk of local stone

-is a fitting memorial to him.

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-I think he saw Garn Goch

-as a symbol of Welsh sovereignty.

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-He fought for that cause

-all his life.

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-It's a very noble memorial stone.

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-On a limestone ridge almost 100m

-above the River Cennen...

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-..is one of Britain's most striking

-and romantic sights.

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-It was painted by Turner in 1798...

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-..and it remains

-a much-admired attraction.

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-No castle in Wales filled the enemy

-with quite as much dread...

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-..as Carreg Cennen Castle.

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-If I tried to attack it from the

-bottom of the hill, I'd give up!

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-This is the Welsh castle

-in the most dramatic location.

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-Caernarfon and Conwy castles

-may be more elaborate...

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-..but no Welsh castle

-is in a location to compare to this.

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-You can see it from miles away.

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-This is the main landmark

-of Carmarthenshire.

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-It was originally a Welsh castle...

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-..commissioned by the descendants

-of Lord Rhys in the 13th century.

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-It was the headquarters

-of the district of Iscennen.

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-The Deheubarth family lost its land

-by the late 13th century.

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-The castle was granted

-to John Giffard, Lord of Llandovery.

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-The castle you see today

-was built by the Giffards...

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-..between 1280 and 1322.

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-After the Giffard period...

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-..the castle passed to the Despenser

-and Lancaster families.

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-It then became a royal castle

-and was targeted by Owain Glyndwr.

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-He laid siege to it

-and took the castle in 1403.

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-He did extensive damage here.

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-We know that 500 was spent

-on repairs after the Revolt.

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-That was a fortune

-in the 15th century.

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-The castle then became part

-of the estate of the Earl of Cawdor.

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-Carreg Cennen farm was sold

-to its tenant in the 1970s.

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-Somehow, the castle

-was included in the sale.

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-It was an error by Cawdor...

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-..but the family is proud

-to own Carreg Cennen Castle.

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-I'd be proud too.

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-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

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