Pennod 3 Ar y Lein


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Pennod 3

Bethan Gwanas sy'n teithio'r byd gan ddilyn lledred tref Llanymddyfri. Bethan Gwanas visits Munster in Germany, Bad Pyrmont, Hameln, Magdeburg and Lodz.


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LineFromTo

-Hello! Ich bin jetzt in Deutschland

-- I'm now in Germany.

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-I'm travelling around the world

-along the 52-degree latitude line.

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-I've crossed from the Netherlands

-to Germany.

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-My journey has taken me

-from Llandovery...

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-..through England

-and the Netherlands...

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-..and I'm now in one of Europe's

-largest countries.

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-Munster is the first town you

-come to after crossing the border.

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-It's full of magnificent

-old buildings.

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-It's busy, the shops are great.

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-There are 55,000 students here,

-100,000 bikes...

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-..and they come at you

-from all directions!

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-You need eyes

-in the back of your head!

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-Other than that, it's nice!

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-Munster is a lively academic town

-similar to Oxford or Cambridge.

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-All those students and bikes

-may account for that.

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-The standard of living

-is quite high here.

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-Even designer "hunde"

-have to spend a penny!

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-But you need more than pennies

-to live here.

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-Buildings damaged during the War

-have been skilfully restored.

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-The shops are posh and expensive.

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-Yes, another cathedral!

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-Munster may be a good introduction

-to Germany.

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-But I headed east to a town I'd

-never heard of before - Bad Pyrmont.

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-"Bad" means "spa".

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-There are indeed

-some special springs here.

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-The water cures

-all kinds of ailments.

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-This has been a popular destination

-for centuries.

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-Especially if you're old and feeble.

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-You approach the bar

-and decide which water you want.

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-Everyone has their own mug!

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-THEY SPEAK GERMAN

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-It's good for my eyes,

-heart and joints.

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-THEY SPEAK GERMAN

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-My German O-level came in handy!

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-Looking good for 70, isn't she?

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-Good stuff, this water!

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-THEY SPEAK GERMAN

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-Mind you, some of the waters

-tasted awful!

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-Bars are great places

-for making new friends.

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-Bethan - yes, Bethan!

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-Beth-an! Bethan!

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-HE SPEAKS GERMAN

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-It's Welsh!

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-Why did he look at me like that

-when I said I was Welsh?!

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-There are lovely gardens here.

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-This sculpture illustrates life

-from beginning to end.

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-The focus is on pampering

-the body, within and without.

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-This leisure centre is wonderful.

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-But be warned - if you have

-a sensitive nature, look away now!

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-This is not nice!

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-Travelling around the world

-is hard work.

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-But being kneaded like this

-by a man lessens the pain!

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-Oh, nice!

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-Danke!

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-I'm not saying anything!

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-A Welshman, almost

-as clean and fresh as me...

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-..had invited me to his home.

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-Alan Williams came here

-with the Army in '64.

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-He met and married a local girl.

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-Finding his house was easy.

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-Life is good here, isn't it?

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-Oh yes. It's nice and peaceful.

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-How does it compare with Anglesey?

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-How does it compare with Anglesey?

-

-Well, Anglesey is peaceful, too.

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-Depends where you are!

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-Anglesey's a nice place, too.

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-I got the feeling that Bad Pyrmont

-is full of old people.

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-I saw lots of people

-with walking frames.

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-There are young people here.

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-They may have bad backs.

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-Have house prices gone up?

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-No, not here.

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-Not much.

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-Not like at home.

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-Well, I may come and live here.

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-We're sitting here enjoying a cuppa

-and marzipan biscuits.

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-I won't move back to Anglesey.

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-No?

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-THEY SPEAK GERMAN

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-Welsh for ever!

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-You're a Welshman who lives here.

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-I don't blame him -

-it's a lovely area.

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-With that water to keep you

-young and healthy...

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-..who'd want to retire to Anglesey?

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-Off I went again, through

-truly beautiful countryside...

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-..that inspired the Brothers Grimm

-many centuries ago.

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-A rat run.

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-Where will it take me?

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-This area abounds with fairy tales

-and magical legends.

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-You all know the story

-of the Pied Piper.

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-Yes, I'm in Hameln.

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-The Piper is seen everywhere.

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-The buildings are pretty,

-but the Piper's story is milked...

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-..to make sure we tourists

-get our money's worth.

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-Here at the Hochzeithaus...

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-..the Rattenfanger-Glockenspiel

-plays three times a day.

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-Gosh, look who it is!

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-This is what happens

-if you don't pay your bills!

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-They even have a real

-full-time Pied Piper in tights!

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-This is Michael Boyer.

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-You wouldn't think he was American!

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-HE SPEAKS GERMAN

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-He came here with the Army, too.

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-He fell in love, learned

-the clarinet and became a celeb.

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-He can't even go for a pint

-without making the local paper!

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-A song to send you on your way.

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-# CLARINET #

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-I'm sure he'll carry on

-enchanting children for years.

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-But he didn't get rid

-of all the rats.

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-They turn up everywhere.

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-These are made from bread.

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-On we go, across the border that no

-longer exists, to eastern Germany.

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-This is Magdeburg.

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-The influence of Communism can still

-be seen in its architecture.

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-Things have changed for the better

-but there aren't enough jobs.

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-Young people tend to move away.

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-Residents of the former East Germany

-pay an extra 5% tax...

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-..to help regenerate the region,

-but this takes time.

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-Many of us associate Magdeburg

-with Hitler.

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-This is one of the places

-where he was buried.

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-Not that people here

-were aware of it.

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-But there's more to this town.

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-After German reunification...

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-..efforts have been made to create

-a lively, thriving city...

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-..where you can buy anything.

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-This square has always been called

-Old Market Square...

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-..though there was no market here

-during the Communist era.

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-SHE SPEAKS GERMAN

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-Irmgard Urbahn

-remembers the period well.

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-They only received exotic items

-like bananas at Christmas...

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-..and they had to queue for hours,

-she says.

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-It's so different

-after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

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-At first, they had trouble coming

-to terms with extended choice.

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-They'd never had to choose before.

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-It affected every aspect

-of their lives.

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-This frau with her shovel

-commemorates the rubble women...

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-..who cleared up after Magdeburg was

-bombed to smithereens in the War.

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-And this is a famous son

-of Magdeburg, Otto von Guericke...

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-..the man who discovered vacuum.

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-He was the first to demonstrate...

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-..that it was possible to remove air

-from a space.

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-Philosophers had argued

-that it was impossible.

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-He used eight horses

-to try to pull a huge sphere apart.

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-They failed, proving how strong

-a vacuum can be.

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-HE SPEAKS GERMAN

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-They re-create the experiment

-at the museum.

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-Air is pumped out of this sphere...

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-..then weights are used

-to test the vacuum's strength.

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-No horses, but the point is proved.

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-HE SPEAKS GERMAN

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-Imagine the shock it must have

-caused in Otto von Guericke's day.

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-THEY SPEAK GERMAN

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-Since the reunification of West

-and East Germany in the late '80s...

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-..money has flowed

-into places like Magdeburg.

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-The Jahrtausendturm -

-Millennium Tower...

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-..is the world's

-biggest wooden tower.

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-An exhibition records mankind's

-history and development...

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-..over the past 6,000 years.

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-Each of the tower's six floors

-represents 1,000 years.

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-To get this pendulum

-to work properly...

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-..the 52 degree latitude

-had to be factored into the sums.

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-It will take time for the

-former East Germany to catch up.

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-It will also take time...

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-..for the West to accept that the

-two countries are now united.

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-888

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-888

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-I travel on and arrive in Guben...

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-..the last town

-before crossing into Poland.

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-It's a small, rather poor town

-but we had our warmest welcome yet.

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-The people of eastern Germany

-are always ready to help...

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-..and they're so grateful

-for what they have.

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-It seems that those who have the

-least are the most willing to share.

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-Guben was a German town but,

-overnight, after World War II...

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-..everyone who lived

-that side of the river...

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-..were ordered to leave their homes

-because it was now part of Poland.

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-The River Neisse now splits

-the town between two countries...

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-..with two languages.

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-This is Guben, that's Gubin.

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-Until 1972, there was no contact

-at all between Guben and Gubin.

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-Things have changed.

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-Now, everyone can go back and forth

-as they wish.

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-"Trennen und verbinden,"

-as they say...

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-.."the river separates

-and also connects us."

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-I must now cross the river

-into Poland as I follow the line.

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-I have to show my passport this time

-- the European Community ends here.

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-For now, anyway.

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-I head for Zielona Gora.

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-I change my Euros for zlotys and

-take in the town, which is pretty.

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-It's one of the few towns on the

-line not scarred by World War II.

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-These buildings are old

-but the paint is new.

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-It's a busy industrial city...

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-..producing the best wine

-and vodka in Poland...

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-..and wool, carpets,

-furniture and train wagons.

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-There was a lot of kissing going on!

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-There's an exhibition...

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-..of the work of one of Poland's

-most famous painters...

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-..Marian Kruczek.

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-Kruczek became prominent

-during the '60s and '70s.

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-He was quite a character,

-very fond of drink and women...

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-..and died young,

-apparently as a consequence.

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-But he did a lot of very interesting

-and unusual work before he died.

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-Most of his works are extremely

-detailed, and some are way out.

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-He liked using everyday objects

-and he was keen on sexual symbolism.

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-I couldn't always see it, myself!

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-After centuries of oppression by

-Germany and Russia on either side...

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-..Poland is a poor country that

-is quickly becoming regenerated.

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-People don't have much money but

-they're always impeccably dressed.

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-The girls, anyway!

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-In Poland, there's a big difference

-between a circle and a triangle!

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-For your information,

-a circle means "Ladies"!

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-So what are those circles?

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-You can't do that in Snowdonia!

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-Beyond the town,

-it was like going back in time.

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-The old Polish way of life.

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-They have tractors,

-but horses are still important.

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-Small, winding roads were a nice

-change after the German autobahns.

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-I'd been warned about the roads,

-but they weren't that bad.

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-And I wasn't in any hurry.

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-This ferry is powered

-solely by the current.

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-Very clever!

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-Though I hadn't expected it

-to take a week!

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-Back on dry land at last, I headed

-for one of Poland's major towns...

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-..Lodz.

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-I arrived at Lodz in no time.

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-Though it starts with an L,

-it's pronounced "Ooj", not "Lodz"!

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-Because of their history,

-the Poles are very proud people.

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-The national flag

-is displayed everywhere.

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-I never saw anything like it

-in Germany or the Netherlands.

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-The atmosphere is that of a small

-town - people are very sociable.

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-It's nice to see a country

-honouring its talented sons.

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-Artur Rubenstein was one of them.

-Look what big hands he's got!

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-This is Piotrkovska Street,

-almost four kilometres long.

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-A rickshaw provides the ideal way

-of travelling along it.

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-Apparently there are 105 pubs

-hiding behind these buildings.

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-I bet the rickshaws come in handy

-at closing time!

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-There's a very successful

-film school here...

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-..so the town is also known

-as "Holly-Lodz"!

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-They even have a gallery of stars

-on the pavement.

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-Mr Bednarek from the film school

-showed them to me.

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-Yes, Roman Polanski

-is a former student.

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-HE SPEAKS POLISH

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-Part of Lodz's history is involved

-with a very different star.

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-Jews played a very prominent role

-in the town's economic growth.

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-This is the biggest Jewish cemetery

-in Europe - over 40 hectares.

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-Some of the tombs indicate how much

-wealth there was here years ago.

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-The Poznanski family tomb.

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-They were business people...

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-..who built some of Lodz's

-most striking buildings.

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-They lived a grand life...

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-..and built an equally grand tomb

-for the afterlife.

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-There's gold mosaic on the ceiling

-and marble everywhere.

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-World War II changed everything.

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-In the old Jewish Quarter,

-there was a ghetto...

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-..where 230,000 of Lodz's Jews

-were confined during World War II.

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-This is the old police station,

-where they were tortured...

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-..and forced to leave their

-possessions and family assets.

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-These possessions were stored across

-the road in the Catholic church.

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-From this old railway station...

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-..the Jews of Lodz were transported

-to Hitler's gas chambers.

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-They had to strip

-before boarding the train.

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-Their clothes

-were taken back to Lodz.

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-The remaining Jews mended them...

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-..and they were given

-to poor German families.

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-Some mothers recognised the clothes

-of family members.

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-Standing here

-is a very unpleasant experience.

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-77,000 of Lodz's Jews,

-including children and old people...

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-..were taken along these very tracks

-to the Chelmno concentration camp.

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-Of that 77,000,

-only five managed to escape.

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-Two managed to survive the War.

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-Just one is alive today.

-He lives in Israel.

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-Two years after the first train...

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-..73,000 of Lodz's Jews were taken

-on another train, in that direction.

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-No-one knows what happened to them.

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-They were taken

-to Auschwitz-Birkenau.

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-Of the 230,000 Jews

-who used to live in Lodz...

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-..only 877 remained alive

-at the end of the War.

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-Here's one line I'd rather forget.

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-The line now takes me

-to Biala Podlaska...

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-..on Poland's eastern border.

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-This lovely, old-fashioned town

-is famous in the equestrian world.

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-If you want an Arab horse,

-head for the Stadnina Koni stud.

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-People flock here from afar to buy

-the world's best Arab horses.

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-There's something more interesting

-than a horse in a field beyond.

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-Another border -

-this is where Poland ends...

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-..so this is the last Pole!

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-Belarus is over there, and the

-Ukraine is in that direction.

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-This marks the border with the West.

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-Soon, this will also mark

-the boundary of the European Union.

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-I feel privileged

-to have come this far...

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-..and seen what I've seen.

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-In a few years,

-what I've seen may be gone.

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-I selfishly want these places

-to stay as they are.

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-But Poland is catching up

-with the rest of Europe.

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-After centuries of suffering,

-they deserve it.

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-Next week I'll be in Kiev

-in the Ukraine.

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-And I'll have my first taste

-of Russia.

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-S4C subtitles by

-TROSOL Cyf.

0:23:450:23:48
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Bethan Gwanas sy'n teithio'r byd gan ddilyn lledred tref Llanymddyfri. Bethan Gwanas visits Munster in Germany, Bad Pyrmont, Hameln, Magdeburg and Lodz.