Pennod 4 Ar y Lein


Pennod 4

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LineFromTo

-888

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-The language and the currency

-have changed...

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-..and the alphabet

-has changed completely.

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-It's the Cyrillic alphabet

-for the next 7,000 kilometres.

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-This should be fun!

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-I'm in the Ukraine,

-famed for painted eggs...

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-..beetroot soup

-and Cossack singing and dancing.

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-The city of Kiev,

-pronounced "Keev", not "Key-ev".

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-Following the 52 degree

-latitude line across Europe...

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-..I encountered towns

-I'd never heard of.

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-But we've all heard of Chicken Kiev.

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-Forget Prague and Paris -

-Kiev is the place these days.

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-It's been destroyed

-by fire, Mongols and Germans.

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-Today it's a pretty, lively,

-cosmopolitan, friendly city.

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-Russian was the official language

-during the Soviet era.

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-Since 1991, it's been Ukrainian.

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-Our interpreter, Yulia,

-gave me a lesson.

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-THEY SPEAK UKRAINIAN

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-And goodbye?

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-And goodbye?

-

-Do pobachennia.

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-Again?

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-Again?

-

-Do pobachennia.

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-Do pobachennia.

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-Do pobachennia.

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-Do pobachennia.

-

-Do pobachennia.

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-The great Perschesk Lavra

-monastery welcomes visitors.

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-This is the heart of Ukrainian,

-and indeed Russian, religion.

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-Guess what "monk" is in Ukrainian?

-"Mynach", same as in Welsh!

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-In 988AD, Tsar Vladimir converted

-Ukrainians and Russians...

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-..to Orthodox Christianity.

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-Vodka ruled out Islam!

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-Judaism failed to create unity,

-so he chose Christianity.

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-Or so they say.

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-Two million people come here

-each year, many of them pilgrims.

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-Everyone wants to visit the caves.

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-It's dark and confined

-and you really need a candle.

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-Women must cover their heads.

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-# CHANTING #

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-The original monks

-excavated these caves.

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-Here they spent their lives

-meditating and praying.

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-Here they were laid to rest,

-and they still lie here...

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-..900 years later.

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-The bodies haven't decomposed

-and this is regarded as a miracle.

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-THEY SPEAK UKRAINIAN

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-He was the son

-of a very famous person.

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-He decided to leave the outer world

-and go to the monastery.

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-The atmosphere is strikingly

-peaceful and spiritual...

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-..though hundreds of pilgrims

-and tourists come here each day.

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-I'm not religious, but it's hard

-not to be affected by this place.

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-I feel very materialistic...

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-..when I consider that those men

-spent up to 30 years...

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-..here, underground, without seeing

-the light of day at all...

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-..in these little rooms...

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-..praying for me and you

-and the world in general.

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-It shames me, to be honest.

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-# CHANTING #

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-Though tourists are welcome,

-it's really a place for prayer.

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-I felt like a voyeur and I was glad

-to reach daylight again.

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-Ukrainian people are very cultured.

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-There are 32 museums

-and 33 theatres here...

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-..and some extremely strange

-statues.

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-This is Mr Panikovsky,

-who pretended he was blind...

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-..so people would help him

-cross the street.

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-But when they reached the other

-side, their wallet had gone!

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-Mr Panikovsky of Kiev is a character

-from a popular comic novel.

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-Everyone knows him

-and isn't that nice?

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-Shouldn't we have statues of Wil

-Cwac Cwac and Sali Mali in Cardiff?!

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-Or William Jones

-outside a chip shop in Bethesda?!

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-THEY SPEAK UKRAINIAN

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-Cabbage, yes?

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-Cabbage meat.

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-Cabbage meat.

-

-Cabbage meat?

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-Cabbage, meat.

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-Yeah, OK.

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-There's more to Ukrainian food

-than Chicken Kiev.

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-Varenyky - small dumplings

-stuffed with meat or potatoes.

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-I thought the waiter and I

-had understood each other.

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-Obviously, we hadn't.

-I couldn't eat all this food!

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-I can't remember

-how to say thank you!

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-Zdorovya!

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-Zdorovya!

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-That's strong!

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-It's good, too!

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-Vodka burns away cholesterol,

-or so they say!

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-But this next place

-sobered me up again.

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-A museum chronicling

-the Chernobyl disaster.

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-The nuclear plant

-is 100 kilometres north of Kiev.

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-I've never seen a museum like it.

-I was both touched and angered.

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-On April 26, 1986, reactor

-number four at the plant exploded.

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-Nine tons of radioactive material

-escaped.

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-That's nine times more

-than the Hiroshima bomb.

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-The results were catastrophic.

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-These workers at the plant

-were the first to die.

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-Young men who had families.

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-The May Day festival

-came three days later.

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-Young girls danced unaware

-of radioactive contamination.

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-The authorities

-didn't want to cause panic...

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-..so they didn't say

-what had happened.

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-Eventually, people were ordered

-to leave.

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-"You'll be back

-in two or three days."

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-But they never returned.

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-Their homes were demolished

-and buried underground.

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-Following the explosion, the wind

-blew for days towards Belarus...

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-..which suffered

-the worst contamination.

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-SHE SPEAKS UKRAINIAN

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-..as the cloud was shifted.

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-It went to the United Kingdom.

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-An area of 30 kilometres around

-Chernobyl remains restricted.

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-I hadn't quite understood.

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-Over 70 towns and villages...

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-..will remain contaminated

-and deserted for ever.

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-That's about the same size

-as Meirionnydd.

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-Over 160,000 adults and children

-died from radiation.

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-Unofficially, of course.

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-Thousands are still suffering.

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-All these children are now dead.

-Every one of them.

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-I would have enjoyed spending

-more time in the Ukraine.

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-It's an interesting country

-with friendly people.

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-Kiev's buildings and churches

-are truly magnificent.

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-But what will remain

-in my mind forever...

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-..are what I saw and felt

-at the Chernobyl museum.

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-Do pobachennia, Kiev.

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-888

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-888

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-No, not "Capatob" - S-A-R-A-T-O-V.

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-Saratov!

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-The line has brought me to Russia,

-a country I've yearned to see.

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-Saratov was my first taste

-of this huge country.

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-Saratov lies beside the Volga,

-not far from Kazakhstan.

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-Until 1992 it was a closed city.

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-No-one could go there

-unless they lived there.

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-Now, it welcomes everyone

-with open arms.

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-It has grown tremendously.

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-Over one million people live here.

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-This is the longest river

-in Europe - the Volga.

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-It's at its narrowest here -

-only three kilometres wide!

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-Yes, I've reached Russia

-and I'm in Saratov.

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-Muscovites like coming here

-on holiday because it's hot.

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-It's only May, 10 o'clock in the

-morning, and it's already 30C.

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-I'm sweating like a pig!

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-Russia is a huge country.

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-You could fit the British Isles

-into it 69 times.

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-It has always been a military power

-to be feared and respected.

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-There's a display of that power

-at this World War II memorial park.

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-No-one praises their heroes

-more than the Russians.

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-Saratov claims credit

-for the greatest hero of all.

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-Yuri Gagarin was a son of Saratov,

-and this is where he learned to fly.

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-I'm about to enter

-one of his capsules.

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-He must have been a very small guy!

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-On April 12, 1961,

-at seven o'clock in the morning...

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-..Major Yuri Alekseyevich Gagarin

-became the first person in space.

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-This is how he was!

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-Not much room,

-and it's terribly hot!

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-Yuri is still a hero.

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-His final word

-before he went into space...

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-..was "Poyekhali!" - "Let's go!"

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-The park was full of very

-grandly dressed schoolchildren.

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-May 24 is a very important day

-for Russia's schoolchildren

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-It's officially

-their last day at school.

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-They're celebrating

-the end of childhood.

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-THEY SHOUT IN RUSSIAN

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-The hair ribbons

-are a symbol of childhood.

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-But the celebrations are temporary -

-exams begin next week.

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-In Saratov, I found one of the

-strangest town emblems ever...

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-..a loaf of bread -

-a huge one called a kalach.

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-SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

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-SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

-

-One like that?

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-You're supposed to stick your hand

-into it - like this, yes?

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-Oh God!

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-There we go - oops!

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-And it springs back up!

-It really does!

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-And now I'm supposed to eat it.

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-Mmm!

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-THEY SPEAK RUSSIAN

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-"Packet" - that's bag, not baguette!

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-Well, I've got my kalach.

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-It weighs a ton.

-It should last me a fortnight!

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-On such a hot day, everyone was

-enjoying ice cream in the park.

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-Some were here to get married. Nice!

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-Others were here to sing.

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-This is a local band,

-Saratov Harmonica.

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-Just the thing for Llangollen

-and Sesiwn Fawr Dolgellau!

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-# ACCORDION MUSIC #

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-Music is greatly respected here.

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-Every town has a conservatory where

-maestros teach young musicians.

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-Tuition is free.

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-At last I found someone

-willing to share my loaf!

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-People are friendly

-and sociable in Saratov.

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-Though they weren't too keen

-to share my loaf!

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-Kalach?

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-Don't, then!

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-Saratov is a lively, jolly,

-utterly Russian city.

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-No signs in English,

-like you get in Moscow.

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-The Volga is responsible

-for Saratov's prosperity.

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-For centuries, the river

-has been important for trade.

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-But pollution is a big problem,

-and fish and caviar are suffering.

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-It doesn't bother these -

-they're still celebrating.

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-Natural sand makes it feel

-just like the seaside.

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-The women are fit and pretty, making

-me feel like a sack of potatoes!

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-The men aren't quite so fit!

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-Too much beer and not enough vodka!

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-Who'd have imagined?!

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-In the middle of Russia,

-it's not even summer...

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-..and everyone's on the beach!

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-Not our usual image of Russia.

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-I can't get over it!

-I burnt my feet on the sand!

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-At nightfall, everyone flocks

-to the riverbank.

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-The former schoolchildren continue

-to celebrate until the early hours.

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-I would have joined them, but

-mosquitoes were eating me alive.

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-Do svidanya, Saratov - time to move

-on to another big city, Novosibirsk.

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-It meant crossing the Ural Mountains

-into Siberia.

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-Another place

-I've always wanted to see.

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-The image is a romantic one...

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-..Christmas card landscapes,

-Omar Sharif...

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-..and great wide expanses.

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-Today, the cities are big,

-industrial and busy.

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-Years ago, people were sent here

-as punishment.

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-Today, people want to come here.

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-Novosibirsk is the Siberian capital.

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-Everything here is big.

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-The largest city in Siberia, largest

-train station, largest library...

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-..and Russia's largest theatre.

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-But the youngsters are preoccupied

-with other things.

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-Lenin, leader of the

-1917 Bolshevik Revolution...

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-..and founder

-of the Communist Party in Russia.

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-Every town in the country

-has kept its statue of Lenin.

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-He caused suffering,

-but he's part of history.

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-This is the Church of St Nicholas.

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-It's famous for its location.

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-If you drew a line from

-Vladivostok in that direction...

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-..to Kaliningrad over there,

-this would be bang in the middle.

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-This is Russia's

-geographical centre.

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-This church is only ten years old.

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-The Bolsheviks

-destroyed the old church...

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-..because they were opposed

-to religion.

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-It's a very popular place

-for weddings nowadays.

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-It may be small,

-but there's enough room for three!

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-I met another national hero

-at the Spartak Stadium.

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-A contemporary fencing hero.

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-This kind of fencing, you hambone!

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-Stanislav Pozdnyakov has won

-four Olympic silver medals.

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-He's the current European

-and world champion at sabre fencing.

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-For the children of Novosibirsk,

-he's a star.

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-Stavs gave me a lesson -

-he said I could call him Stavs!

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-Like that?

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-You gonna step.

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-You gonna step.

-

-Step.

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-OK, so...

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-Make a lunge, maybe.

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-Like that?

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-Yeah, very good!

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-The coach wasn't so impressed!

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-OK.

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-Right, you hold this.

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-Oh, lovely!

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-What do you think?

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-Want to know what it feels like?

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-Stavs is 30 this year.

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-He hopes to compete

-at two more Olympics.

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-Remember that name -

-Stanislav Pozdnyakov.

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-His main enemy is an Italian,

-but he's the current numero uno.

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-He's my numero uno too!

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-He makes Putin look like a pudding!

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-This town was built specially

-for academics back in the '50s.

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-Academgorodok, where the cream of

-the scientific community gathered...

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-..to work and conduct research.

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-Surrounded by nature and fresh air,

-they earned big salaries.

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-The aim was to create Utopia,

-but can you imagine it?

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-A city of nothing but scientists!

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-Like a city of nothing

-but playwrights.

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-Or bards and nothing but bards.

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-Utopia?!

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-Things worked well, initially.

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-But it ended

-when the Soviet system broke down.

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-There was no money

-to keep the place going.

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-Many academics moved abroad

-for better salaries.

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-But some stayed and carried on

-working for specialist institutions.

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-This is the geology department.

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-Yeah, stones and stuff!

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-I wasn't expecting thrills, but it

-turned out to be really interesting!

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-SHE SPEAKS RUSSIAN

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-There's a wealth of oil

-and minerals in Siberia...

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-..from Mirny diamonds to beautiful

-purple charoite from Yakutia.

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-It's extremely rare and valuable

-because there's none left now.

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-A big piece like this costs 20,000

-- too much for them and me!

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-I returned to Novosibirsk -

-to the train station.

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-This is the biggest station

-in Russia, and one of the grandest.

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-It's sparkling clean...

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-..despite having 10,000 passengers

-passing through each day.

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-Trains here are never late...

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-..unfortunately!

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-I'm late for one of the world's

-most amazing train journeys...

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-..the Trans-Siberia.

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-Seasoned travellers

-dream of this journey.

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-It'll remain a dream for me

-if these two don't get a move on!

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-Things didn't look good.

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-But I was allowed on in the end.

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-The Trans-Siberian Express is a

-bit faster than the TrawsCambria...

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-..and I won't have to spend ages

-in Aberystwyth!

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-Poyekhali!

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-Next week, my journey

-on the Trans-Siberian Express...

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-..Lake Baikal, and eastern Russia.

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-S4C subtitles by

-TROSOL Cyf.

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