Pennod 3 Ar y Lein

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-FLAMENCO MUSIC

-I'm still in Spain

-and I've reached Andalucia...

-..home of bullfighting,

-tapas and flamenco!

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-I've reached Cordoba, an historic

-and truly beautiful city...

-..with a network of buildings

-and streets from the Middle Ages.

-I've travelled from Wales,

-through Cornwall...

-..and the islands of Brittany.

-Last week,

-I'd reached northern Spain.

-Cordoba is in the Andalucia region

-of southern Spain.

-It's the home of flamenco dancing

-and the birthplace of the guitar.

-This is Juderia,

-Cordoba's Jewish region.

-A labyrinth of narrow streets

-and peaceful green patios...

-..perfect for sheltering

-from the sun.

-There can't have been

-any fat people living here!

-The smallest square in the world?

-Cordoba is a mecca for craft lovers.

-There are various shops

-and workshops...

-..specialising in silver

-and leather goods.

-Cordoban leather has been

-world-famous for centuries.

-It's the best leather available.

-If you buy some leather from here,

-make sure the name is clear to see.

-Otherwise,

-it'll be a cheap imitation.

-Unfortunately,

-I wanted to buy this belt.

-But it's too small!

-Oh, well, less tapas for me!

-The Romans established Cordoba.

-Because of its location

-on the River Guadalquivir...

-..it was the perfect place

-to export olive oil, wine and wheat.

-Centuries later,

-the Muslims arrived.

-That heralded the start

-of the city's greatest period.

-Libraries, patios

-and mosques were built.

-The strange thing about this mosque

-is that it's not a mosque now.

-The Muslims were forced out...

-..and in the 16thC, the Christians

-built this cathedral church...

-..right inside the mosque.

-They could have demolished the

-mosque and then built the cathedral.

-I'd like to think

-that it was a sign of respect...

-..for what the Muslims had achieved

-almost 1,000 years earlier.

-Mezquita's mosque is one of the best

-examples of Islamic architecture...

-..in the world.

-Right in the centre

-of the clever simplicity...

-..stands the cathedral church

-with its Christian wealth.

-A stunning building that demands

-silence no matter who you worship.

-The Muslim influence on Spain

-extends further than just mosques.

-Spanish consists of thousands of

-words that originate from Arabic.

-'Naranja' for orange, 'arroz'

-for rice and 'azucar' for sugar.

-The greatest thing Spain

-is known for...

-..is heavily associated

-with Muslim period.

-Yes - flamenco!

-This is Maria and she's going

-to give me a flamenco lesson.

-I'm 'poco' nervous.

-Having met the singer

-and the guitarist...

-..nice men

-and truly talented musicians...

-..I wondered if my Welsh feet

-were too big for Spanish shoes.

-But no, they fitted like a glove.

-They put me in the mood instantly.

-Dozens of little nails in the sole

-make the noise.

-The lesson's about to start.

-I'm glad I wasn't wearing a skirt.

-I wouldn't be able to flash my legs!

-I was scared - poking my tongue out

-and giggling nervously!

-I had no idea what I was doing.

-But soon, it all fell into place.

-It's difficult to watch the feet

-and the arms at the same time.

-And the finale...

-..ole!

-While I was changing my shoes and

-having a drink I truly deserved...

-..the real show began.

-Why couldn't I dance with him?

-They were all excellent....

-..but the star of the show

-was my teacher - Maria!

-That's flamenco at its best.

-The ability to convey

-deep emotion...

-..with style,

-sexuality and personality.

-APPLAUSE

-ALARM CLOCK

-Look, the flamenco

-didn't start 'til 10.30pm.

-I didn't get to bed till 2.30am.

-This is my siesta!

-Go on, I'll see you later.

-But I didn't get much sleep

-since the scamps had woken me up!

-Bullfighting is another tradition

-we associate with Spain.

-The only thing that's more popular

-than bullfighting is football.

-The Museo Taurino is full

-of bullfighting memorabilia.

-Historical posters and some of the

-costumes worn by famous matadors.

-One room is dedicated

-to one particular matador.

-This is Manolete.

-A legendary bullfighter

-until his death in 1947...

-..when he was killed

-by a bull called Islero.

-There was no escape for Islero.

-He was killed instantly...

-..and his hide and ears

-hang here in the museum.

-The rest of the world,

-and some people living in Spain...

-..regard bullfighting

-as a cruel sport.

-It's not a game for Spaniards.

-If you wanted to read

-about bullfighting contests...

-..in local papers, you won't find it

-in the back with the other sport.

-It's on the front, next to the arts!

-Bullfighting is an art here!

-I don't think

-I can comment on bullfighting...

-..until I've seen what happens.

-There's a bullfighting festival

-in Jaen all weekend.

-This is the view for miles

-in this part of Spain.

-Hills upon hills

-of neatly-kept olive trees.

-10% of the world's olive oil

-is produced in Jaen.

-I've always wanted to attend

-a real fiesta, and here I am!

-It's like Menai Bridge Fair

-with frills.

-Everyone laughing, eating and

-drinking and dressing up smartly.

-Girls in their

-bata de cola dresses...

-..which make tight jeans

-look so cheap!

-That's what I call paella!

-The bulls are at the other end

-of town...

-..and that's where

-I'm meeting Xavier - and I'm late!

-THEY SPEAK SPANISH

-I've got to go because it's about

-to begin so I'll see you inside.

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-I'm in Jaen for the last

-bullfighting weekend of the season.

-Spain's most famous matadors

-are here.

-They're more famous

-than footballers around here.

-The whole event is very theatrical.

-Colour and costume

-are integral parts of the show.

-It's like a rugby match

-at the Millennium Stadium.

-Tickets are like gold dust.

-Xavier used to watch

-bullfighting contests regularly...

-..but he seldom goes now.

-He's one of a number of Spaniards

-who've turned their backs on it.

-He tells me that the matador

-gets the bull's ears and tail...

-..to keep on his mantelpiece

-if he puts on a good show.

-He only gets one ear

-if it's only a fair show.

-If it's a poor show...

-..they cut his ear off!

-Only joking!

-But as you can see,

-I didn't understand.

-The bull is released

-and the peons try to tire it.

-This is theatrical and colourful

-and good entertainment.

-Then the picadors appear

-on horseback...

-..and lance the bull's neck muscles

-with their spears.

-This weakens the bull

-and it doesn't look very fair to me.

-If the picador wounds the bull

-badly, the crowd will protest.

-Here he is - El Cordobes.

-In the bullfighting world,

-he is David Beckham.

-The crowd appreciate his talent but

-when he starts to clown around...

-..listen to the old man

-sitting next to me shouting "No!"

-He's supposed to impale the bull

-through its heart for a swift death.

-APPLAUSE

-He fails, but refuses any help...

-..to impale it cleanly

-a second time.

-He would rather see the bull

-die a slow death.

-He loses points

-for impaling a second time.

-But the crowd aren't too bothered.

-By waving their handkerchiefs...

-..they try to persuade the judges

-to give him full marks.

-This is the man who was angry

-with the matador.

-He's a lone voice in the wilderness.

-El Cordobes looks happy enough.

-I'm still not sure what to think.

-It's cruel

-and the bull stands no chance...

-..but there must be something

-I haven't understood.

-I'm off to learn more in Ronda...

-..birthplace of bullfighting...

-..and the next stop along the line,

-an hour from Marbella.

-The El Tajo river gorge

-is down there...

-..and this is Puente Nuevo,

-the New Bridge.

-It's not that new -

-it was built in 1793!

-According to legend,

-the architect Martin de Aldehuela...

-..was very pleased with his bridge.

-He thought he could never

-achieve anything like it again...

-..so he jumped off the bridge.

-That doesn't make sense to me.

-Anyway, it's not true.

-He died in Malaga in 1802.

-The town is split in two

-by the gorge.

-La Ciudad, the old town

-on one side of the bridge...

-..and this is the new part

-on the other side.

-Bullfighting

-may have started here...

-..but times have changed.

-Bullfighting contests

-are seldom held here now.

-Today, it's more of a museum.

-But interest in the sport remains.

-This is Ronda's school

-for young matadors.

-All the boys want to grow up

-to become famous matadors.

-The teacher is a former matador.

-He starts them young,

-at around seven or eight years old.

-THEY SPEAK SPANISH

-The emphasis is on the elegance

-of the movements.

-They need to be trained mentally

-as well as physically.

-THEY SPEAK SPANISH

-One or two have exhibited

-true talent, like Jonathan here.

-He's already killed

-some young bulls.

-His technique is very promising.

-The mind is always more important.

-You must be able to understand

-the nature of the bull.

-It's a psychological contest

-between matador and bull.

-You must be able to conquer

-the bull with your will.

-They have pictures of matadors,

-not footballers, on their walls.

-Jonathan promised to send me

-his picture when he becomes famous.

-THEY SPEAK SPANISH

-Centuries ago, only the nobility

-fought bulls, on horseback.

-In 1698, a man from Ronda,

-Francisco Romero...

-..decided to challenge a bull

-without a horse...

-..using only a cloak.

-His son, Juan,

-came up with the idea...

-..of having people

-helping the matador in the ring.

-His son, Pedro,

-made the sport popular...

-..and developed the rules

-and the style we know today.

-This restaurant is named after him.

-I fancy some tapas.

-Pedro killed around 5,500 bulls...

-..before opening a bullfighting

-college when he was 77 years old.

-SHE ORDERS IN SPANISH

-I was expecting

-small bowls of tapas!

-Really!

-Well, there you are.

-Jamon, a special salad from Ronda,

-goat's cheese, little chorizos...

-..and a local cheese.

-I'm going to start with that.

-They know their cheese!

-I was supposed to have tapas,

-but this isn't tapas.

-Tapas are small and cheap -

-these are expensive!

-This is posh tapas. Very nice!

-Chorizo.

-The food was exquisite, but what

-did I think of bullfighting now?

-There's more to it

-than meets the eye.

-It's impossible

-for an outsider to understand.

-But I think the school in Ronda

-explained more to me than anyone.

-I drove down the mountains

-without hitting a motorbike...

-..and reached every Brit's

-favourite Costa.

-I've bombed at breakneck speed

-right through Spain.

-I've reached the bottom - Marbella.

-To be totally honest with you,

-I'm not fond of places like this...

-..that attract thousands

-of British holidaymakers.

-But they say Marbella is different.

-Let's see what it has to offer.

-In a moment!

-It wasn't as bad as I first thought.

-A lot better, actually.

-There are many English people, but

-there are many Spaniards here, too.

-It's a lot less tacky

-than Torremolinos.

-I didn't see

-one fish and chip shop...

-..and there are some

-posh places here.

-So posh, I'm going there on a ship.

-Well, a boat!

-I've almost reached Puerto Banus.

-This is where the rich, and those

-who want to show you they're rich...

-..come out to play.

-It's packed with boats worth

-millions and large glitzy shops.

-The people around here

-have a motto - "A Way Of Life".

-An expensive way of life

-if you ask me!

-It costs five times more

-to drop anchor in Puerto Banus...

-..than it does in Marbella.

-This is the grandest marina

-along the Costa del Sol.

-It's filled with ships and boats...

-..worth more than

-all the farms in Gwynedd!

-They all look so clean, I doubt

-any of them have been out to sea.

-It's the millionaires' playground...

-..and a tourist trap for the nosey.

-Like me!

-But each to his own.

-Some people like expensive shops

-and labels...

-..but I don't.

-I was happier in the marketplace but

-even that appeared false, somehow.

-Maybe I'm not as easily pleased

-as I used to be.

-The sunset was nice.

-It was an opportunity for me to

-remember the places I'd enjoyed.

-I feel rather smug.

-I've seen the real Spain. I've

-travelled from one end to the other.

-I've seen new things

-and learnt new things.

-Things I never thought

-I'd experience.

-Last year, when I went around

-the world that way...

-..I fell in love with Russia

-like you'd never believe.

-Spain is even better.

-Espania, me gusta mucho!

-Mucho, mucho, mucho!

-Next week, I'll be in Morocco.

-I'll be wandering around

-the markets of Fez and Tangier...

-..eating my supper

-with a nomadic family....

-..and having some fun with a camel.

-S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan