Pennod 4 Ar y Lein
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Transcript
| Line | From | To | |
|---|---|---|---|
-888 | 0:00:00 | 0:00:00 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:00:00 | 0:00:01 | |
-Welcome to Morocco. | 0:00:01 | 0:00:03 | |
-This one's coming home with me! | 0:00:03 | 0:00:05 | |
-888 | 0:00:06 | 0:00:08 | |
-888 | 0:00:13 | 0:00:15 | |
-888 | 0:00:20 | 0:00:22 | |
-I've reached Gibraltar. | 0:00:29 | 0:00:31 | |
-I've travelled through Spain and -reached somewhere that's so British. | 0:00:31 | 0:00:36 | |
-In the last series, things changed -as I travelled further from Wales. | 0:00:37 | 0:00:41 | |
-I've just left the exotic world of -flamenco dancing and bullfighting... | 0:00:42 | 0:00:47 | |
-..only to reach an English pub -which serves a Sunday roast. | 0:00:47 | 0:00:51 | |
-A plate of Yorkshire pudding and -gravy was a nice change from tapas! | 0:00:51 | 0:00:57 | |
-There are some differences, though. | 0:00:59 | 0:01:02 | |
-You don't see anything like this -in Wales. | 0:01:02 | 0:01:05 | |
-And I'm not in a zoo. -These are wild monkeys. | 0:01:05 | 0:01:09 | |
-They say that when the -Barbary Macacas leave Gibraltar... | 0:01:10 | 0:01:14 | |
-..the British will also leave. | 0:01:14 | 0:01:16 | |
-Spain wants the Rock back... | 0:01:17 | 0:01:19 | |
-..but the British -have been here for over 300 years. | 0:01:20 | 0:01:23 | |
-The locals want to remain British. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:25 | |
-I was shocked to find -such a resilient attitude here. | 0:01:25 | 0:01:29 | |
-Far, far across the waves... -is Morocco! | 0:01:31 | 0:01:34 | |
-Those are the Atlas Mountains -and I'll be heading... | 0:01:34 | 0:01:38 | |
-..for North Africa soon. | 0:01:38 | 0:01:40 | |
-I lived in Nigeria -for two years in the '80s. | 0:01:40 | 0:01:43 | |
-When I left, I had two choices. | 0:01:44 | 0:01:46 | |
-One was to leave in a Land Rover, -across the Sahara through Morocco. | 0:01:46 | 0:01:50 | |
-The second was to go -to the Bahamas as a nanny. | 0:01:50 | 0:01:53 | |
-I chose the Bahamas -and I still regret it. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:56 | |
-Now, almost 20 years later, -I'm going to North Africa. | 0:01:56 | 0:02:00 | |
-I've followed the longitude line -through the islands of Brittany... | 0:02:01 | 0:02:06 | |
-..and right through -the heart of Spain. | 0:02:07 | 0:02:10 | |
-I'm heading for Fez in Morocco. | 0:02:10 | 0:02:12 | |
-The ferry from Gibraltar -will take me to Tangiers. | 0:02:12 | 0:02:15 | |
-I've strayed slightly -from the longitude line... | 0:02:26 | 0:02:29 | |
-..but Tangiers -is well worth a visit. | 0:02:30 | 0:02:32 | |
-It's a lively place... | 0:02:32 | 0:02:34 | |
-..which is quickly losing its bad -reputation for hassling tourists. | 0:02:34 | 0:02:38 | |
-It's difficult to describe... | 0:02:40 | 0:02:43 | |
-..the feeling of being a female -travelling alone in Morocco... | 0:02:43 | 0:02:47 | |
-..because I'm being followed -by men with cameras all the time! | 0:02:47 | 0:02:52 | |
-A lot of tourists visit Tangiers -and people here told me... | 0:02:52 | 0:02:56 | |
-..I could wear what I wanted. | 0:02:56 | 0:02:58 | |
-But I'd rather wear -a long-sleeved shirt and trousers... | 0:02:58 | 0:03:02 | |
-..as a sign of respect. | 0:03:02 | 0:03:04 | |
-Artists and authors -flocked to these cafes years ago. | 0:03:04 | 0:03:08 | |
-Local men drink coffee there now. | 0:03:09 | 0:03:11 | |
-But not today. Today is Ramadan. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:13 | |
-Ramadan is a month when followers -of Islam starve themselves... | 0:03:14 | 0:03:19 | |
-..from dawn until dusk. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:21 | |
-Nothing passes their lips - -not even water. | 0:03:21 | 0:03:24 | |
-It's their way of purifying -the spirit, body and soul. | 0:03:24 | 0:03:28 | |
-It's also a show of sympathy -to poor people who have no food. | 0:03:29 | 0:03:33 | |
-When the sunset comes at 5.30pm, -they gorge themselves... | 0:03:33 | 0:03:37 | |
-..and have a great time. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:39 | |
-The traffic increases -at the end of the afternoon. | 0:03:44 | 0:03:48 | |
-Everyone wants to go home -for supper. | 0:03:48 | 0:03:51 | |
-Mustafa is taking me to Fez. | 0:03:53 | 0:03:55 | |
-He says we should reach in time -to hear the call to prayer. | 0:03:55 | 0:03:59 | |
-Muslims pray five times a day. | 0:03:59 | 0:04:01 | |
-The imam in every mosque -invites everyone to pray... | 0:04:02 | 0:04:05 | |
-..over a loud speaker. | 0:04:06 | 0:04:07 | |
-From the hill above the city, -the effect is incredible. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:12 | |
-It sounds like racing cars -in a Grand Prix. | 0:04:13 | 0:04:16 | |
-SOUND OF DISTANT PRAYERS | 0:04:19 | 0:04:21 | |
-They say that Fez -is the Athens of Africa. | 0:04:46 | 0:04:49 | |
-It's an ancient city - -Morocco's oldest imperial city... | 0:04:49 | 0:04:53 | |
-..and it's been -a cultural and religious centre... | 0:04:54 | 0:04:57 | |
-..for over 1,000 years. | 0:04:57 | 0:04:59 | |
-Today, Fez is split -into three parts. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:02 | |
-New Fez - which hasn't -been new for 800 years... | 0:05:02 | 0:05:05 | |
-..the Ville Nouvelle which was built -at the end of the last century... | 0:05:05 | 0:05:09 | |
-..and the original part - -the old medina, Fez el Bali... | 0:05:09 | 0:05:12 | |
-..a World Heritage Site... | 0:05:12 | 0:05:14 | |
-..and one of the largest -medieval cities in the world. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:18 | |
-Assalamu alaikum. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:20 | |
-There are 9,400 narrow streets -and souks in the medina. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:27 | |
-They branch out -into every direction. | 0:05:27 | 0:05:30 | |
-It's easy to get lost here... | 0:05:30 | 0:05:32 | |
-..but locals here are used -to seeing people getting lost... | 0:05:32 | 0:05:37 | |
-..and are happy to help out - -for a price, sometimes! | 0:05:37 | 0:05:41 | |
-The colours and smells -are wonderful. | 0:05:42 | 0:05:46 | |
-Everything is laid out -to tempt you to spend your dirhams. | 0:05:47 | 0:05:50 | |
-In this medina of Fez... | 0:05:53 | 0:05:55 | |
-..neither the buildings -nor the people's way of life... | 0:05:55 | 0:06:00 | |
-..have changed for years. | 0:06:00 | 0:06:02 | |
-People still use donkeys -to carry things around. | 0:06:02 | 0:06:05 | |
-People work with wood and metal -in little holes-in-the-wall. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:10 | |
-Apart from the odd mobile phone, -they still sell the same goods. | 0:06:11 | 0:06:16 | |
-It's great here! | 0:06:16 | 0:06:18 | |
-This donkey -is carrying animal skins. | 0:06:22 | 0:06:24 | |
-It must be on its way to the -tannery, which is where I'm going. | 0:06:25 | 0:06:28 | |
-If I lose the donkey, -I can always follow my nose. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:32 | |
-The leather from Fez -is some of the finest in the world. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:45 | |
-These men dye the skin -in the old traditional way. | 0:06:45 | 0:06:48 | |
-Yes, with their feet! | 0:06:49 | 0:06:51 | |
-For some strange reason, -I like this place. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:56 | |
-It's been here -for more than eight centuries... | 0:06:56 | 0:07:00 | |
-..and they've used the same process -throughout that time. | 0:07:00 | 0:07:04 | |
-I was expecting a strong smell... | 0:07:04 | 0:07:06 | |
-..but they do use pigeon poo, -cow's pee and fish oils here! | 0:07:07 | 0:07:11 | |
-I must admit, the smell -gets stronger as the day goes on... | 0:07:12 | 0:07:16 | |
-..but to be honest, -it's not that bad. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:18 | |
-I've smelt worse things at home! | 0:07:18 | 0:07:21 | |
-On the farm, I mean, -not in the house! | 0:07:21 | 0:07:23 | |
-Water is essential -in such a dry country. | 0:07:25 | 0:07:28 | |
-Centuries ago, clever water systems -were built here. | 0:07:29 | 0:07:33 | |
-There are over sixty -public fountains in the medina... | 0:07:33 | 0:07:37 | |
-..some of which are beautiful. | 0:07:37 | 0:07:40 | |
-There are 350 mosques, but you -can't enter unless you're a Muslim. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:45 | |
-The medina is far more -than just a marketplace. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:52 | |
-If you want to know -what goes on behind closed doors... | 0:07:52 | 0:07:56 | |
-..you need a guide. | 0:07:56 | 0:07:58 | |
-Ahmed is taking me -to a very special place. | 0:07:58 | 0:08:01 | |
-Behind this door, -in a quiet corner of the medina... | 0:08:15 | 0:08:19 | |
-..is a Koran school. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:21 | |
-I've been invited to call in. | 0:08:21 | 0:08:23 | |
-Assalamu alaikum. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:28 | |
-Assalamu alaikum. | 0:08:34 | 0:08:35 | |
-The lesson today is counting to ten. | 0:08:37 | 0:08:39 | |
-THEY COUNT TO TEN IN ARABIC | 0:08:40 | 0:08:42 | |
-BETHAN COUNTS TO TEN IN ARABIC | 0:08:52 | 0:08:54 | |
-I could have stayed with them -all day. | 0:09:05 | 0:09:08 | |
-Fez is renowned -for being an educational centre. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:11 | |
-Morocco's most religious, cultural -and artistic people live here. | 0:09:12 | 0:09:16 | |
-No wonder since they start -teaching them very young. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:21 | |
-You can't leave Morocco without -visiting at least one carpet shop. | 0:09:32 | 0:09:36 | |
-Ahmed has brought me -to one of the finest... | 0:09:37 | 0:09:39 | |
-..in a large, stunning building. | 0:09:40 | 0:09:42 | |
-The managers of these places -are always pleasant... | 0:09:42 | 0:09:46 | |
-..and they can speak -dozens of languages. | 0:09:46 | 0:09:49 | |
-There are dozens of rooms -and thousands of carpets. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:53 | |
-You're given a lecture -on history and tradition first... | 0:09:53 | 0:09:57 | |
-..and then you're shown -a number of different carpets. | 0:09:58 | 0:10:01 | |
-The manager takes note -of every single response you make. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:05 | |
-I must look like -a very practical woman. | 0:10:06 | 0:10:10 | |
-This carpet has one side for the -summer and another for the winter. | 0:10:10 | 0:10:14 | |
-That's the one I fancy, -the big red one. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:26 | |
-He has noted my interest. | 0:10:27 | 0:10:29 | |
-Here's a cup of sweet mint tea -to try and win me over. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:33 | |
-He gives me a lecture on the history -of the carpet and its patterns. | 0:10:37 | 0:10:42 | |
-I only want to know one thing. -How much does it cost? | 0:10:42 | 0:10:46 | |
-THEY SPEAK FRENCH | 0:10:47 | 0:10:49 | |
-Combien? | 0:10:52 | 0:10:53 | |
-Douze mille dirhams. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:57 | |
-Douze mille? | 0:10:57 | 0:10:59 | |
-I can't do my sums! -I don't know how much it costs. | 0:10:59 | 0:11:02 | |
-750. | 0:11:09 | 0:11:12 | |
-Too much! -I mustn't get my fingers burnt! | 0:11:14 | 0:11:17 | |
-I could have stayed -in the medina of Fez for a week... | 0:11:17 | 0:11:21 | |
-..and spent a fortune on carpets. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:24 | |
-I regret not buying that carpet now. | 0:11:24 | 0:11:27 | |
-It's time to move on -and Mustafa is waiting for me. | 0:11:27 | 0:11:31 | |
-Onwards I go, to see more -of this remarkable country. | 0:11:31 | 0:11:34 | |
-You'd never tell I was still -in Morocco, but I am. | 0:12:10 | 0:12:14 | |
-We've driven up the Atlas Mountains -on the way to Midelt. | 0:12:14 | 0:12:18 | |
-We've stopped -in the little village of Ifrane. | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
-It was built by the French in the -'20s and '30s of the last century... | 0:12:22 | 0:12:27 | |
-..as a holiday village - -it's like being in Switzerland! | 0:12:27 | 0:12:31 | |
-Today, rich Moroccans come here -for their holidays, and to ski! | 0:12:31 | 0:12:36 | |
-Unfortunately, snow isn't forecast -until next Friday. | 0:12:36 | 0:12:40 | |
-So, on I go to Midelt. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:42 | |
-I enjoyed every minute -of the hustle and bustle in Fez... | 0:12:47 | 0:12:51 | |
-..but the tranquillity -in this green valley is wonderful. | 0:12:52 | 0:12:56 | |
-Morocco is full of variety. | 0:12:56 | 0:12:58 | |
-There's more to come in Part Two! | 0:12:58 | 0:13:01 | |
-888 | 0:13:31 | 0:13:31 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:13:31 | 0:13:33 | |
-Midelt is right in the centre -of Morocco... | 0:13:43 | 0:13:46 | |
-..nestling in the Atlas Mountains. | 0:13:47 | 0:13:49 | |
-It's a quiet town -with little to do here. | 0:13:49 | 0:13:53 | |
-It's somewhere to fill the petrol -tank on the way north or south. | 0:13:54 | 0:13:58 | |
-It's a place for tourists on buses -to rest a while... | 0:14:00 | 0:14:03 | |
-..and stock up on food -for the journey ahead. | 0:14:04 | 0:14:07 | |
-There is one place worth visiting - -Kasbah Myriem... | 0:14:07 | 0:14:12 | |
-..a convent and a workhouse. | 0:14:12 | 0:14:14 | |
-Franciscan nuns provide shelter... | 0:14:15 | 0:14:17 | |
-..for Berber women -to make carpets and embroidery. | 0:14:17 | 0:14:20 | |
-The nuns buy the wool -and the women make the carpets... | 0:14:24 | 0:14:28 | |
-..which are sold to tourists -like me. | 0:14:28 | 0:14:31 | |
-This is a way of making money -to buy food for the family... | 0:14:35 | 0:14:39 | |
-..and themselves, -if they are widows or spinsters. | 0:14:39 | 0:14:42 | |
-They don't work to a pattern. | 0:14:51 | 0:14:53 | |
-Each carpet is an original creation -based on the person's imagination. | 0:14:53 | 0:14:57 | |
-Here are the young girls arriving. | 0:15:00 | 0:15:03 | |
-They aren't eager -to learn how to make carpets. | 0:15:03 | 0:15:06 | |
-They prefer embroidery. | 0:15:06 | 0:15:08 | |
-The old skill of making carpets -will one day die out... | 0:15:08 | 0:15:14 | |
-..but the youngsters -prefer embroidery at the moment. | 0:15:14 | 0:15:18 | |
-Some refuse to marry because -work gives them independence. | 0:15:18 | 0:15:22 | |
-As one pointed out, why marry men -who only use them as servants? | 0:15:22 | 0:15:28 | |
-With a full tank of petrol, -and plenty of water bottles... | 0:15:35 | 0:15:38 | |
-..we were ready to head -for the desert. | 0:15:39 | 0:15:42 | |
-We will climb up -the highest Atlas Mountains... | 0:15:49 | 0:15:52 | |
-..and then descend to Erfoud, -which will lead us to the Sahara. | 0:15:52 | 0:15:57 | |
-These people were the last people -to be controlled by the French. | 0:16:01 | 0:16:05 | |
-They were still rebelling in 1932. | 0:16:06 | 0:16:08 | |
-Erfoud was then built -to control this unruly bunch! | 0:16:08 | 0:16:12 | |
-This is Rissani, where the souks -are out in the open air. | 0:16:19 | 0:16:24 | |
-I thought the whole point -of having souks in a medina... | 0:16:24 | 0:16:28 | |
-..was to avoid the hot sunshine. | 0:16:29 | 0:16:31 | |
-But spices are fine in the sun - -I think. | 0:16:31 | 0:16:33 | |
-There are forty different spices -in this one. | 0:16:34 | 0:16:37 | |
-And it's good for digestion! | 0:16:37 | 0:16:39 | |
-Chocoran! | 0:16:42 | 0:16:43 | |
-All I need is some fruit to quench -my thirst on the way to the desert. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:54 | |
-Dix - combien? | 0:16:55 | 0:16:57 | |
-Combien sont les bananes? | 0:17:01 | 0:17:03 | |
-I'm right on the edge -of the Sahara with a nomadic family. | 0:17:51 | 0:17:55 | |
-This isn't something for tourists, -so I feel very privileged. | 0:17:56 | 0:18:01 | |
-These people move -from place to place all the time. | 0:18:01 | 0:18:05 | |
-Their only means of subsistence -is a herd of twenty-five goats. | 0:18:05 | 0:18:09 | |
-It's a hard life - and they're poor -but they've invited me for supper. | 0:18:10 | 0:18:13 | |
-This is the kitchen. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:16 | |
-This is the lounge and the bedroom. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:22 | |
-I offered to help and had -a linguistic shock in the process. | 0:18:23 | 0:18:27 | |
-Crwn! | 0:18:31 | 0:18:33 | |
-Crwn? Crwn! | 0:18:33 | 0:18:35 | |
-Crwn?! | 0:18:36 | 0:18:38 | |
-Crwn! | 0:18:41 | 0:18:43 | |
-Crwn! Wow! | 0:18:45 | 0:18:46 | |
-It's the same word in Welsh. | 0:18:48 | 0:18:50 | |
-While the father lights a fire -to boil water for a cuppa... | 0:18:52 | 0:18:55 | |
-..the mother tries to make me look -like a local woman. | 0:18:56 | 0:18:59 | |
-Berber. | 0:18:59 | 0:19:00 | |
-Berber. - -Berber? | 0:19:00 | 0:19:00 | |
-Berber? | 0:19:00 | 0:19:02 | |
-How do I look? | 0:19:11 | 0:19:13 | |
-A good way of getting -to know each other... | 0:19:22 | 0:19:25 | |
-..is teaching each other -your own language. | 0:19:25 | 0:19:28 | |
-Ah, tomato! | 0:19:29 | 0:19:31 | |
-Mateisha. | 0:19:31 | 0:19:33 | |
-In Welsh, 'Nionyn'. | 0:19:34 | 0:19:36 | |
-'Tatws'. | 0:19:36 | 0:19:38 | |
-'Pupur'. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:42 | |
-'Tomato'. | 0:19:42 | 0:19:44 | |
-Mateisha! | 0:19:48 | 0:19:50 | |
-Morticia Addams Family! | 0:19:50 | 0:19:52 | |
-Mateisha! | 0:19:52 | 0:19:54 | |
-Batat. | 0:19:55 | 0:19:56 | |
-I never travel anywhere without -photos of my home and family. | 0:20:11 | 0:20:15 | |
-The children loved the photo -of my house in the snow. | 0:20:15 | 0:20:19 | |
-Meg, my niece, is the same age -as Mustafa, the youngest. | 0:20:19 | 0:20:23 | |
-The sunset, the food -and the welcome was magnificent. | 0:20:29 | 0:20:33 | |
-The night turned into -a very special experience. | 0:20:33 | 0:20:38 | |
-THE CHILDREN SING | 0:20:40 | 0:20:42 | |
-The most memorable night -of the journey so far. | 0:20:49 | 0:20:52 | |
-Fewer people can live -a nomadic life these days... | 0:20:53 | 0:20:56 | |
-..and this way of life -may soon disappear. | 0:20:56 | 0:21:00 | |
-When these children raise -their own children in town flats... | 0:21:00 | 0:21:05 | |
-..they'll miss these nights -beneath the stars. | 0:21:05 | 0:21:08 | |
-To catch the sun -rising above the dunes... | 0:21:20 | 0:21:23 | |
-..we must set off in moonlight. | 0:21:23 | 0:21:27 | |
-I don't have to tell you... | 0:21:57 | 0:21:59 | |
-..how exhilarating crossing -the sand dunes during sunrise was. | 0:21:59 | 0:22:04 | |
-Just look at these images. | 0:22:04 | 0:22:06 | |
-Pity you can't hear the chat-up -lines of the man on the other camel! | 0:22:30 | 0:22:35 | |
-I almost fell off my own camel! | 0:22:35 | 0:22:37 | |
-I'm in the Sahara. | 0:22:43 | 0:22:45 | |
-Some of you may think -I'm on Harlech beach... | 0:22:45 | 0:22:48 | |
-..with a camel from Colwyn Bay Zoo! | 0:22:49 | 0:22:51 | |
-Really, I'm here in the Sahara! | 0:22:51 | 0:22:53 | |
-The journey down through Morocco -has been very memorable. | 0:22:54 | 0:22:58 | |
-It's such a diverse country. | 0:22:58 | 0:23:00 | |
-From a city like Fez, -which is totally bonkers... | 0:23:00 | 0:23:03 | |
-..to this wonderfully peaceful -desert - and I love it here. | 0:23:04 | 0:23:08 | |
-The food here is the best -I've ever tasted... | 0:23:09 | 0:23:12 | |
-..and everyone wants to marry me. | 0:23:12 | 0:23:14 | |
-And not just the camels! | 0:23:15 | 0:23:17 | |
-Next week, Mali - the real Africa... | 0:23:29 | 0:23:32 | |
-..where I feel as if I've come home. | 0:23:32 | 0:23:36 | |
-S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan | 0:23:37 | 0:23:39 |