Pennod 5 Ar y Lein


Pennod 5

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-I'm in West Africa,

-and 20 years ago I lived here.

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-Well, in Nigeria,

-which isn't on the line.

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-But both countries are very similar

-and I feel as if I've come home.

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-By crossing over to the other side

-of the Sahara, I've reached Mali.

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-If you've ever wondered

-where Timbuktu is...

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-..it's here, but unfortunately,

-it's not on the line!

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-But it's a chance to see some

-places that are just as interesting.

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-As you'd expect,

-Mali gets very little rain.

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-The River Niger

-keeps the country going.

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-It flows from one end

-of the country to the other.

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-It allows the people

-to grow crops...

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-..and it's also a leisurely way

-to travel from one place to another.

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-At the moment, we're in

-the flattest part of the country.

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-When the wet season arrives,

-the river overflows here...

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-..creating useful lakes and streams

-in its path.

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-Mali is the largest and

-friendliest country in West Africa.

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-Its landscape is full of contrasts,

-from the Sahara Desert...

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-..down to the fertile savannah

-around the River Niger.

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-This is Mopti,

-right in the middle of Mali.

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-It's a crossroads

-between north and south.

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-It's the perfect place

-for a huge market.

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-Luckily, I'm used to these boats!

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-Mopti is the area's busiest town.

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-It used to be

-a quiet little fishing village...

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-..scattered across

-a number of small islands.

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-They then filled the waterways

-with earth and stones...

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-..to create the town as it is today.

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-Fishing is the main industry.

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-These are smoked and dried fish.

-They are sold locally and exported.

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-Yes, they do smell,

-but the market is a riot...

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-..of different colours and aromas.

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-Everything comes through Mopti.

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-Hens, goats,

-fruit, vegetables, fish...

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-..pottery and all sorts of crafts

-from nearby villages.

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-But this salt has travelled

-a long distance.

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-They mined this in North Africa...

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-..transported it to Timbuktu

-on a camel...

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-..and it arrived here by boat.

-There are two kinds of boats.

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-The smaller ones

-are called pirogue.

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-I used to travel on them weekly...

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-..when I lived in Nigeria.

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-We used to call them dug-outs since

-English is the language of Nigeria.

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-The larger, colourful boats

-are called pinasse.

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-They carry the heavier loads.

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-They can transport

-up to 150 tonnes at a time.

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-Mopti is a very cosmopolitan town.

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-All kinds of people live here

-or just pass through.

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-There weren't any house numbers

-or street names in Nigeria...

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-..but Mopti seems

-much more organised.

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-Most of the activity in Mopti

-is centred around the harbour...

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-..but there is also a new town

-full of shops.

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-They told me

-there was a cybercafe here.

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-I haven't checked my e-mails

-for ages.

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-Submit.

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-I know I curse

-modern technology now and again...

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-..but there's technology

-and there's technology.

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-I've been travelling for a while...

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-..and e-mails allow you to contact

-people you've met on the way...

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-..and catch up

-with scandals from home.

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-This is taking its time.

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-The keyboard's full of sand...

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-..and the letters

-are in a different place!

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-Yay!

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-I have 16 e-mails.

-Geraint Lovgreen and Ifor ap Glyn.

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-"Enjoying your garden!"

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-"Good!" People have said "good"

-about something.

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-I'm going to open

-Catrin Beard's e-mail.

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-Sorry, Catrin! I hope it's clean!

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-# La, la, la! #

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-Come on!

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-Oh! "Enjoyed 'Hi Yw Fy Ffrind'

-immensely.

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-"It created a wonderful period

-atmosphere. Congratulations."

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-"Hiya.

-I'm in Mopti - it's like an oven!"

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-As the women of Mopti meet at

-the riverside to do their washing...

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-..it's time for me

-to move on to Djenne.

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-I could have taken a boat but

-decided to travel by car instead.

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-I'm on my way to listen

-to music in Bobo.

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-I need to catch up

-on some beauty sleep on the way.

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-This is a balafon -

-a wide xylophone.

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-It's widely used to play music here.

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-Bobo means mute -

-they are very quiet people.

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-When they're not singing, of course!

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-They sing about love

-and criticise evil customs.

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-The soles of their feet

-must be tough!

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-We've reached Djenne.

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-It used to be Mali's

-most important town...

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-..until the French developed Mopti.

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-Djenne has changed very little

-over the centuries...

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-..a fact that attracts tourists

-like me! Today is market day.

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-Every Monday,

-the town's population trebles...

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-..as people from near and far

-flock here to shop.

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-I really feel at home here now.

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-It's like stepping back to a market

-in Bida, Nigeria, 20 years ago.

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-The calabashes, the noise

-and the aromas are all the same.

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-The lorries are fully loaded

-with people, hens and goats.

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-Yes, Djenne has been built

-entirely of mud.

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-The labourers who build

-and maintain these buildings...

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-..train for years before they're

-classed as master craftsmen.

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-Water and mud are mixed together

-for three days...

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-..shaped into bricks, dried in the

-sun then the plastering begins.

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-The art of plastering

-dates back to the 15th century.

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-The town was granted

-World Heritage status in 1988...

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-..to ensure these unique buildings

-are preserved.

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-They're very old and have done well

-to last so long.

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-In the middle of the busy market

-is Djenne's piece de resistance.

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-The largest, most famous and most

-dramatic mud building in the world.

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-The mosque.

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-Unfortunately, we can't go in.

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-Entry has been denied since

-an Italian TV crew visited here.

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-They decided to film bikini-clad

-women inside the mosque.

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-That was the end of that.

-Only Muslims are welcome here now.

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-TV crews can be

-a real pain sometimes!

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-Mali is renowned for its craftwork.

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-Wood carvings,

-necklaces and earrings.

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-I could easily spend a fortune here

-but I don't have a fortune to spend!

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-Djenne is famous for its bogolans.

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-The best bogolans can be found

-outside the market.

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-This is going to be tricky.

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-Pama doesn't speak French,

-but her son does.

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-I'll ask him, he'll translate...

-You'll see.

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-BETHAN SPEAKS FRENCH

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-PAMA'S SON TRANSLATES

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-PAMA REPLIES

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-These are blankets and pieces

-of material made of pure cotton...

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-..which is grown locally.

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-It's dyed and decorated

-by women like Pama.

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-They use leaves to make yellow...

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-..wood bark to make brown

-and mud to make black.

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-Pama has created a small industry

-by teaching other local women.

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-I had to buy one or two as gifts.

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-I kept them myself in the end!

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-The market has closed down

-and everyone returns home.

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-Some have travelled far

-and it will be dark...

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-..before they arrive home.

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-The following morning,

-Djenne is deserted and peaceful.

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-I can't stay to enjoy the peace -

-it's time to move on.

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-There's so much more to see

-in this incredible country.

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-I'm approaching

-Dogon country now...

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-..which is east of Mopti and Djenne.

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-They're good farmers who've

-succeeded in growing onions...

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-..by watering the land by hand.

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-I'm high up on the plateau and

-the Dogon villages I'm heading to...

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-..are way ahead in the distance.

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-Miles away along sandy roads.

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-I'm looking forward to my visit.

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-888

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-888

-

-888

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-I'm halfway up this cliff...

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-..part of

-the Bandiagara Escarpment...

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-..which stretches 250kms

-this way and that way.

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-Above me is the fertile land with

-fresh water where they grow onions.

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-Suddenly, there's a huge drop

-on the side of this cliff.

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-Ahead of me

-is a desert that carries on...

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-..all the way to Burkina Faso.

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-Originally, the Dogon lived here,

-in the rock face.

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-It was safer here.

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-It looks like a difficult place

-to live...

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-..but these cliffs were home

-to the Dogon for centuries.

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-Other tribes would regularly attack

-the villages and steal slaves.

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-The people of Ende

-now live on flat land...

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-..but one person

-still lives in the rock face.

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-I'm being taken up to meet him now.

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-It wasn't an easy journey

-in the sweltering heat.

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-This is the Hogon -

-the chief priest...

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-..the most important man

-in the village.

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-This is where he lives.

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-According to the Dogon religion...

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-..he has the power to grant wishes

-and sort out any disputes.

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-He was a sweet and gentle man

-who gave us a warm welcome.

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-We had an interesting conversation.

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-He asked me if I thought

-there were any differences...

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-..between his country and Wales.

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-The weather, for one thing...

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-..and I also thought the people

-were friendlier than us...

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-..since our people had forgotten

-the important things in life.

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-He agreed with that...

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-..and told me he'd pray for us

-to find the important things again.

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-But we had to make a contribution

-before he prayed for us.

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-Some cola nuts and a few coins.

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-These are bones

-from the mouths of sheep and goats.

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-They are sacrificed

-when a blessing is needed...

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-..for an infertile couple, for

-example, or a plea for rain.

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-The cemetery is higher up the cliff.

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-The bodies of people

-who still believed...

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-..in the Dogon religion

-were buried there.

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-It was an incredible place

-with a very special atmosphere.

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-After the Hogon had asked me

-if I had a cure for his cold...

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-..we headed for Ende...

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-..where a traditional dance

-was about to begin.

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-DRUM BEAT

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-Masks are very important

-in Dogon dances.

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-These are masks and women's dresses.

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-This is a dance to honour women.

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-As I said, the Dogon stress

-what's important in life!

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-All of a sudden,

-my guide had to join in the fun.

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-He was quite a mover!

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-All this physical activity in

-the dust and heat is alien to me!

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-In the end,

-I think they got a bit tired!

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-Ende is used to seeing tourists.

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-I'm on my way to Dogo now,

-which is well off the beaten track.

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-They don't see

-white people very often there.

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-HE SINGS

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-This is a humdinger of a welcome.

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-This is the 'griot', the town crier

-who makes all the announcements.

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-He's letting everyone know I'm here.

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-You couldn't visit this place

-discreetly.

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-The greeting can be complicated,

-and can last a long time!

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-He's asking after my parents,

-grandparents, my family...

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-..my friends, the weather,

-my cat and my dog!

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-He's given me a new name - Nantumeh.

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-That's quite an honour.

-I'm the First Lady of Dogo now.

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-During a tour of the village,

-I meet the women who prepare supper.

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-They want to give me a quick lesson.

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-This was hard work, but another

-challenge was waiting for me.

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-Unfortunately, I was never taught

-to spin a baton in Dolgellau.

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-Look at the size of this!

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-With all the children following

-my guide and me everywhere...

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-..I felt like the Pied Piper.

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-They were good company, though.

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-The same thing happened

-when I lived in Nigeria.

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-Everyone has a role to play

-in the Dogon community.

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-The skill remains within the family,

-passed on for generations.

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-The blacksmith's role

-is one of the most important.

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-This is his son and the bellows

-are made from goat skin.

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-The women have specific roles, too.

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-The griot's wife mends calabashes...

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-..and the blacksmith's wife

-makes pottery.

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-This is the blacksmith's family.

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-The greeting lesson I'd had

-came in very handy.

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-BABY WHIMPERS

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-BABY WHIMPERS

-

-Oh, dear!

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-Hello! Hiya!

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-That's the way to do it!

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-All these children

-are related to the blacksmith.

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-Not all are his children

-but they belong to his family.

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-You're the newest arrival!

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-You haven't seen

-a white person before!

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-He's just farted!

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-This is one of the elders.

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-He's highly respected and has

-a certain dignity about him.

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-He is the 'animiste' - a soothsayer

-who can see into the future.

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-This was serious business,

-especially when he forecast...

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-..whether we would have

-a safe journey.

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-With the help of his apprentice,

-he proceeded with the ritual.

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-The four feathers

-represented the four of us.

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-Watch carefully!

-This is where the magic happens.

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-THE APPRENTICE SHOUTS

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-One of us knocks the calabash...

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-..and explain to me

-how that happened!

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-One of the feathers was on its side

-but there was no need to worry.

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-The animiste would conduct another

-ritual to ensure our safe passage.

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-He would sacrifice

-a white hen for us.

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-It was a very strange experience...

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-..and yes,

-we all arrived home safely.

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-The journey through Mali

-was drawing to end.

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-It was the most interesting country

-so far.

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-The people, religion and rituals

-of Dogo will stay in my memory.

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-I was truly enchanted here.

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-I'm bound to see interesting people

-again on this journey...

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-..but I doubt I'll ever meet people

-like the Dogon again.

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-What makes them interesting

-is the fact...

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-..that they've kept out

-external influences for centuries.

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-Times change, though.

-More tourists arrive every year.

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-I know we help them financially...

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-..but we're bound to change them

-in the end.

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-But people living

-in some remote villages...

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-..refuse to accept

-tourists among them.

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-And I'm glad of that!

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-Next week, I'll have to re-pack

-my case completely.

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-I'll be freezing in Antarctica

-and the South Pole.

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-From the frying pan into the ice!

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-Thermal knickers it is, then!

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-S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan

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