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-I'm in West Africa, -and 20 years ago I lived here. | 0:00:21 | 0:00:24 | |
-Well, in Nigeria, -which isn't on the line. | 0:00:25 | 0:00:28 | |
-But both countries are very similar -and I feel as if I've come home. | 0:00:28 | 0:00:33 | |
-By crossing over to the other side -of the Sahara, I've reached Mali. | 0:00:38 | 0:00:43 | |
-If you've ever wondered -where Timbuktu is... | 0:00:43 | 0:00:46 | |
-..it's here, but unfortunately, -it's not on the line! | 0:00:46 | 0:00:50 | |
-But it's a chance to see some -places that are just as interesting. | 0:00:50 | 0:00:55 | |
-As you'd expect, -Mali gets very little rain. | 0:01:10 | 0:01:13 | |
-The River Niger -keeps the country going. | 0:01:13 | 0:01:16 | |
-It flows from one end -of the country to the other. | 0:01:17 | 0:01:20 | |
-It allows the people -to grow crops... | 0:01:20 | 0:01:23 | |
-..and it's also a leisurely way -to travel from one place to another. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:28 | |
-At the moment, we're in -the flattest part of the country. | 0:01:28 | 0:01:33 | |
-When the wet season arrives, -the river overflows here... | 0:01:33 | 0:01:37 | |
-..creating useful lakes and streams -in its path. | 0:01:37 | 0:01:41 | |
-Mali is the largest and -friendliest country in West Africa. | 0:01:43 | 0:01:49 | |
-Its landscape is full of contrasts, -from the Sahara Desert... | 0:01:49 | 0:01:53 | |
-..down to the fertile savannah -around the River Niger. | 0:01:54 | 0:01:57 | |
-This is Mopti, -right in the middle of Mali. | 0:02:00 | 0:02:02 | |
-It's a crossroads -between north and south. | 0:02:03 | 0:02:05 | |
-It's the perfect place -for a huge market. | 0:02:06 | 0:02:08 | |
-Luckily, I'm used to these boats! | 0:02:10 | 0:02:13 | |
-Mopti is the area's busiest town. | 0:02:22 | 0:02:25 | |
-It used to be -a quiet little fishing village... | 0:02:26 | 0:02:29 | |
-..scattered across -a number of small islands. | 0:02:29 | 0:02:33 | |
-They then filled the waterways -with earth and stones... | 0:02:33 | 0:02:37 | |
-..to create the town as it is today. | 0:02:37 | 0:02:40 | |
-Fishing is the main industry. | 0:02:40 | 0:02:42 | |
-These are smoked and dried fish. -They are sold locally and exported. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:47 | |
-Yes, they do smell, -but the market is a riot... | 0:02:48 | 0:02:51 | |
-..of different colours and aromas. | 0:02:51 | 0:02:53 | |
-Everything comes through Mopti. | 0:02:56 | 0:02:59 | |
-Hens, goats, -fruit, vegetables, fish... | 0:02:59 | 0:03:02 | |
-..pottery and all sorts of crafts -from nearby villages. | 0:03:02 | 0:03:06 | |
-But this salt has travelled -a long distance. | 0:03:06 | 0:03:09 | |
-They mined this in North Africa... | 0:03:09 | 0:03:12 | |
-..transported it to Timbuktu -on a camel... | 0:03:12 | 0:03:15 | |
-..and it arrived here by boat. -There are two kinds of boats. | 0:03:16 | 0:03:19 | |
-The smaller ones -are called pirogue. | 0:03:19 | 0:03:22 | |
-I used to travel on them weekly... | 0:03:22 | 0:03:24 | |
-..when I lived in Nigeria. | 0:03:24 | 0:03:26 | |
-We used to call them dug-outs since -English is the language of Nigeria. | 0:03:27 | 0:03:31 | |
-The larger, colourful boats -are called pinasse. | 0:03:31 | 0:03:35 | |
-They carry the heavier loads. | 0:03:35 | 0:03:37 | |
-They can transport -up to 150 tonnes at a time. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:40 | |
-Mopti is a very cosmopolitan town. | 0:03:45 | 0:03:49 | |
-All kinds of people live here -or just pass through. | 0:03:49 | 0:03:54 | |
-There weren't any house numbers -or street names in Nigeria... | 0:03:54 | 0:03:57 | |
-..but Mopti seems -much more organised. | 0:03:57 | 0:04:00 | |
-Most of the activity in Mopti -is centred around the harbour... | 0:04:04 | 0:04:08 | |
-..but there is also a new town -full of shops. | 0:04:08 | 0:04:11 | |
-They told me -there was a cybercafe here. | 0:04:11 | 0:04:15 | |
-I haven't checked my e-mails -for ages. | 0:04:15 | 0:04:17 | |
-Submit. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:24 | |
-I know I curse -modern technology now and again... | 0:04:24 | 0:04:28 | |
-..but there's technology -and there's technology. | 0:04:28 | 0:04:32 | |
-I've been travelling for a while... | 0:04:32 | 0:04:34 | |
-..and e-mails allow you to contact -people you've met on the way... | 0:04:34 | 0:04:39 | |
-..and catch up -with scandals from home. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:42 | |
-This is taking its time. | 0:04:42 | 0:04:44 | |
-The keyboard's full of sand... | 0:04:45 | 0:04:47 | |
-..and the letters -are in a different place! | 0:04:47 | 0:04:50 | |
-Yay! | 0:04:50 | 0:04:52 | |
-I have 16 e-mails. -Geraint Lovgreen and Ifor ap Glyn. | 0:04:53 | 0:04:56 | |
-"Enjoying your garden!" | 0:04:57 | 0:04:59 | |
-"Good!" People have said "good" -about something. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:02 | |
-I'm going to open -Catrin Beard's e-mail. | 0:05:03 | 0:05:05 | |
-Sorry, Catrin! I hope it's clean! | 0:05:06 | 0:05:08 | |
-# La, la, la! # | 0:05:08 | 0:05:10 | |
-Come on! | 0:05:12 | 0:05:14 | |
-Oh! "Enjoyed 'Hi Yw Fy Ffrind' -immensely. | 0:05:15 | 0:05:18 | |
-"It created a wonderful period -atmosphere. Congratulations." | 0:05:19 | 0:05:24 | |
-"Hiya. -I'm in Mopti - it's like an oven!" | 0:05:30 | 0:05:32 | |
-As the women of Mopti meet at -the riverside to do their washing... | 0:05:38 | 0:05:42 | |
-..it's time for me -to move on to Djenne. | 0:05:42 | 0:05:45 | |
-I could have taken a boat but -decided to travel by car instead. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:50 | |
-I'm on my way to listen -to music in Bobo. | 0:05:50 | 0:05:53 | |
-I need to catch up -on some beauty sleep on the way. | 0:05:54 | 0:05:57 | |
-This is a balafon - -a wide xylophone. | 0:06:03 | 0:06:06 | |
-It's widely used to play music here. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:09 | |
-Bobo means mute - -they are very quiet people. | 0:06:09 | 0:06:13 | |
-When they're not singing, of course! | 0:06:13 | 0:06:16 | |
-They sing about love -and criticise evil customs. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:20 | |
-The soles of their feet -must be tough! | 0:06:20 | 0:06:23 | |
-We've reached Djenne. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:54 | |
-It used to be Mali's -most important town... | 0:06:54 | 0:06:57 | |
-..until the French developed Mopti. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:00 | |
-Djenne has changed very little -over the centuries... | 0:07:00 | 0:07:04 | |
-..a fact that attracts tourists -like me! Today is market day. | 0:07:04 | 0:07:08 | |
-Every Monday, -the town's population trebles... | 0:07:09 | 0:07:12 | |
-..as people from near and far -flock here to shop. | 0:07:12 | 0:07:16 | |
-I really feel at home here now. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:19 | |
-It's like stepping back to a market -in Bida, Nigeria, 20 years ago. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:24 | |
-The calabashes, the noise -and the aromas are all the same. | 0:07:24 | 0:07:28 | |
-The lorries are fully loaded -with people, hens and goats. | 0:07:28 | 0:07:33 | |
-Yes, Djenne has been built -entirely of mud. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:39 | |
-The labourers who build -and maintain these buildings... | 0:07:39 | 0:07:43 | |
-..train for years before they're -classed as master craftsmen. | 0:07:43 | 0:07:47 | |
-Water and mud are mixed together -for three days... | 0:07:47 | 0:07:51 | |
-..shaped into bricks, dried in the -sun then the plastering begins. | 0:07:51 | 0:07:54 | |
-The art of plastering -dates back to the 15th century. | 0:07:55 | 0:07:58 | |
-The town was granted -World Heritage status in 1988... | 0:07:58 | 0:08:01 | |
-..to ensure these unique buildings -are preserved. | 0:08:02 | 0:08:05 | |
-They're very old and have done well -to last so long. | 0:08:06 | 0:08:09 | |
-In the middle of the busy market -is Djenne's piece de resistance. | 0:08:27 | 0:08:31 | |
-The largest, most famous and most -dramatic mud building in the world. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:35 | |
-The mosque. | 0:08:36 | 0:08:38 | |
-Unfortunately, we can't go in. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:40 | |
-Entry has been denied since -an Italian TV crew visited here. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:44 | |
-They decided to film bikini-clad -women inside the mosque. | 0:08:45 | 0:08:49 | |
-That was the end of that. -Only Muslims are welcome here now. | 0:08:50 | 0:08:53 | |
-TV crews can be -a real pain sometimes! | 0:08:53 | 0:08:57 | |
-Mali is renowned for its craftwork. | 0:09:14 | 0:09:17 | |
-Wood carvings, -necklaces and earrings. | 0:09:17 | 0:09:20 | |
-I could easily spend a fortune here -but I don't have a fortune to spend! | 0:09:20 | 0:09:26 | |
-Djenne is famous for its bogolans. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:29 | |
-The best bogolans can be found -outside the market. | 0:09:29 | 0:09:33 | |
-This is going to be tricky. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:40 | |
-Pama doesn't speak French, -but her son does. | 0:09:41 | 0:09:44 | |
-I'll ask him, he'll translate... -You'll see. | 0:09:44 | 0:09:47 | |
-BETHAN SPEAKS FRENCH | 0:09:48 | 0:09:50 | |
-PAMA'S SON TRANSLATES | 0:09:50 | 0:09:52 | |
-PAMA REPLIES | 0:09:52 | 0:09:54 | |
-These are blankets and pieces -of material made of pure cotton... | 0:09:56 | 0:10:01 | |
-..which is grown locally. | 0:10:01 | 0:10:03 | |
-It's dyed and decorated -by women like Pama. | 0:10:04 | 0:10:07 | |
-They use leaves to make yellow... | 0:10:13 | 0:10:15 | |
-..wood bark to make brown -and mud to make black. | 0:10:16 | 0:10:20 | |
-Pama has created a small industry -by teaching other local women. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:24 | |
-I had to buy one or two as gifts. | 0:10:30 | 0:10:33 | |
-I kept them myself in the end! | 0:10:33 | 0:10:36 | |
-The market has closed down -and everyone returns home. | 0:10:41 | 0:10:44 | |
-Some have travelled far -and it will be dark... | 0:10:44 | 0:10:48 | |
-..before they arrive home. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:51 | |
-The following morning, -Djenne is deserted and peaceful. | 0:11:11 | 0:11:14 | |
-I can't stay to enjoy the peace - -it's time to move on. | 0:11:17 | 0:11:22 | |
-There's so much more to see -in this incredible country. | 0:11:22 | 0:11:26 | |
-I'm approaching -Dogon country now... | 0:11:45 | 0:11:48 | |
-..which is east of Mopti and Djenne. | 0:11:48 | 0:11:50 | |
-They're good farmers who've -succeeded in growing onions... | 0:11:50 | 0:11:54 | |
-..by watering the land by hand. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
-I'm high up on the plateau and -the Dogon villages I'm heading to... | 0:11:57 | 0:12:02 | |
-..are way ahead in the distance. | 0:12:02 | 0:12:05 | |
-Miles away along sandy roads. | 0:12:05 | 0:12:08 | |
-I'm looking forward to my visit. | 0:12:08 | 0:12:11 | |
-888 | 0:12:17 | 0:12:17 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:12:17 | 0:12:19 | |
-I'm halfway up this cliff... | 0:12:24 | 0:12:26 | |
-..part of -the Bandiagara Escarpment... | 0:12:26 | 0:12:29 | |
-..which stretches 250kms -this way and that way. | 0:12:30 | 0:12:33 | |
-Above me is the fertile land with -fresh water where they grow onions. | 0:12:33 | 0:12:39 | |
-Suddenly, there's a huge drop -on the side of this cliff. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:44 | |
-Ahead of me -is a desert that carries on... | 0:12:44 | 0:12:47 | |
-..all the way to Burkina Faso. | 0:12:47 | 0:12:49 | |
-Originally, the Dogon lived here, -in the rock face. | 0:12:50 | 0:12:53 | |
-It was safer here. | 0:12:53 | 0:12:55 | |
-It looks like a difficult place -to live... | 0:12:58 | 0:13:01 | |
-..but these cliffs were home -to the Dogon for centuries. | 0:13:01 | 0:13:05 | |
-Other tribes would regularly attack -the villages and steal slaves. | 0:13:05 | 0:13:10 | |
-The people of Ende -now live on flat land... | 0:13:10 | 0:13:15 | |
-..but one person -still lives in the rock face. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:18 | |
-I'm being taken up to meet him now. | 0:13:19 | 0:13:21 | |
-It wasn't an easy journey -in the sweltering heat. | 0:13:21 | 0:13:25 | |
-This is the Hogon - -the chief priest... | 0:13:27 | 0:13:30 | |
-..the most important man -in the village. | 0:13:30 | 0:13:33 | |
-This is where he lives. | 0:13:33 | 0:13:35 | |
-According to the Dogon religion... | 0:13:35 | 0:13:37 | |
-..he has the power to grant wishes -and sort out any disputes. | 0:13:37 | 0:13:41 | |
-He was a sweet and gentle man -who gave us a warm welcome. | 0:13:42 | 0:13:45 | |
-We had an interesting conversation. | 0:13:53 | 0:13:55 | |
-He asked me if I thought -there were any differences... | 0:13:56 | 0:13:59 | |
-..between his country and Wales. | 0:13:59 | 0:14:02 | |
-The weather, for one thing... | 0:14:14 | 0:14:16 | |
-..and I also thought the people -were friendlier than us... | 0:14:16 | 0:14:20 | |
-..since our people had forgotten -the important things in life. | 0:14:20 | 0:14:24 | |
-He agreed with that... | 0:14:24 | 0:14:26 | |
-..and told me he'd pray for us -to find the important things again. | 0:14:27 | 0:14:31 | |
-But we had to make a contribution -before he prayed for us. | 0:14:31 | 0:14:36 | |
-Some cola nuts and a few coins. | 0:14:36 | 0:14:39 | |
-These are bones -from the mouths of sheep and goats. | 0:14:56 | 0:14:59 | |
-They are sacrificed -when a blessing is needed... | 0:14:59 | 0:15:03 | |
-..for an infertile couple, for -example, or a plea for rain. | 0:15:03 | 0:15:06 | |
-The cemetery is higher up the cliff. | 0:15:10 | 0:15:12 | |
-The bodies of people -who still believed... | 0:15:12 | 0:15:16 | |
-..in the Dogon religion -were buried there. | 0:15:16 | 0:15:18 | |
-It was an incredible place -with a very special atmosphere. | 0:15:18 | 0:15:23 | |
-After the Hogon had asked me -if I had a cure for his cold... | 0:15:25 | 0:15:29 | |
-..we headed for Ende... | 0:15:29 | 0:15:31 | |
-..where a traditional dance -was about to begin. | 0:15:31 | 0:15:34 | |
-DRUM BEAT | 0:15:38 | 0:15:40 | |
-Masks are very important -in Dogon dances. | 0:15:57 | 0:16:00 | |
-These are masks and women's dresses. | 0:16:01 | 0:16:03 | |
-This is a dance to honour women. | 0:16:03 | 0:16:06 | |
-As I said, the Dogon stress -what's important in life! | 0:16:06 | 0:16:10 | |
-All of a sudden, -my guide had to join in the fun. | 0:16:10 | 0:16:14 | |
-He was quite a mover! | 0:16:14 | 0:16:16 | |
-All this physical activity in -the dust and heat is alien to me! | 0:16:26 | 0:16:31 | |
-In the end, -I think they got a bit tired! | 0:16:31 | 0:16:35 | |
-Ende is used to seeing tourists. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:43 | |
-I'm on my way to Dogo now, -which is well off the beaten track. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:49 | |
-They don't see -white people very often there. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:52 | |
-HE SINGS | 0:17:15 | 0:17:17 | |
-This is a humdinger of a welcome. | 0:17:17 | 0:17:20 | |
-This is the 'griot', the town crier -who makes all the announcements. | 0:17:20 | 0:17:23 | |
-He's letting everyone know I'm here. | 0:17:24 | 0:17:26 | |
-You couldn't visit this place -discreetly. | 0:17:27 | 0:17:29 | |
-The greeting can be complicated, -and can last a long time! | 0:17:40 | 0:17:44 | |
-He's asking after my parents, -grandparents, my family... | 0:18:06 | 0:18:11 | |
-..my friends, the weather, -my cat and my dog! | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
-He's given me a new name - Nantumeh. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:17 | |
-That's quite an honour. -I'm the First Lady of Dogo now. | 0:18:17 | 0:18:21 | |
-During a tour of the village, -I meet the women who prepare supper. | 0:18:27 | 0:18:31 | |
-They want to give me a quick lesson. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:34 | |
-This was hard work, but another -challenge was waiting for me. | 0:18:46 | 0:18:51 | |
-Unfortunately, I was never taught -to spin a baton in Dolgellau. | 0:18:51 | 0:18:56 | |
-Look at the size of this! | 0:18:57 | 0:18:59 | |
-With all the children following -my guide and me everywhere... | 0:19:15 | 0:19:20 | |
-..I felt like the Pied Piper. | 0:19:20 | 0:19:22 | |
-They were good company, though. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:25 | |
-The same thing happened -when I lived in Nigeria. | 0:19:25 | 0:19:28 | |
-Everyone has a role to play -in the Dogon community. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:32 | |
-The skill remains within the family, -passed on for generations. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:35 | |
-The blacksmith's role -is one of the most important. | 0:19:36 | 0:19:39 | |
-This is his son and the bellows -are made from goat skin. | 0:19:39 | 0:19:43 | |
-The women have specific roles, too. | 0:19:46 | 0:19:48 | |
-The griot's wife mends calabashes... | 0:19:48 | 0:19:51 | |
-..and the blacksmith's wife -makes pottery. | 0:19:51 | 0:19:54 | |
-This is the blacksmith's family. | 0:19:54 | 0:19:56 | |
-The greeting lesson I'd had -came in very handy. | 0:19:56 | 0:19:59 | |
-BABY WHIMPERS | 0:20:13 | 0:20:14 | |
-BABY WHIMPERS - -Oh, dear! | 0:20:14 | 0:20:15 | |
-Hello! Hiya! | 0:20:16 | 0:20:18 | |
-That's the way to do it! | 0:20:18 | 0:20:20 | |
-All these children -are related to the blacksmith. | 0:20:21 | 0:20:25 | |
-Not all are his children -but they belong to his family. | 0:20:25 | 0:20:31 | |
-You're the newest arrival! | 0:20:31 | 0:20:33 | |
-You haven't seen -a white person before! | 0:20:34 | 0:20:37 | |
-He's just farted! | 0:20:39 | 0:20:41 | |
-This is one of the elders. | 0:20:48 | 0:20:50 | |
-He's highly respected and has -a certain dignity about him. | 0:20:50 | 0:20:55 | |
-He is the 'animiste' - a soothsayer -who can see into the future. | 0:20:55 | 0:21:00 | |
-This was serious business, -especially when he forecast... | 0:21:00 | 0:21:03 | |
-..whether we would have -a safe journey. | 0:21:04 | 0:21:06 | |
-With the help of his apprentice, -he proceeded with the ritual. | 0:21:06 | 0:21:11 | |
-The four feathers -represented the four of us. | 0:21:11 | 0:21:14 | |
-Watch carefully! -This is where the magic happens. | 0:21:32 | 0:21:36 | |
-THE APPRENTICE SHOUTS | 0:21:40 | 0:21:42 | |
-One of us knocks the calabash... | 0:21:48 | 0:21:51 | |
-..and explain to me -how that happened! | 0:21:51 | 0:21:54 | |
-One of the feathers was on its side -but there was no need to worry. | 0:21:54 | 0:21:58 | |
-The animiste would conduct another -ritual to ensure our safe passage. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:02 | |
-He would sacrifice -a white hen for us. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:06 | |
-It was a very strange experience... | 0:22:06 | 0:22:09 | |
-..and yes, -we all arrived home safely. | 0:22:09 | 0:22:12 | |
-The journey through Mali -was drawing to end. | 0:22:25 | 0:22:29 | |
-It was the most interesting country -so far. | 0:22:29 | 0:22:32 | |
-The people, religion and rituals -of Dogo will stay in my memory. | 0:22:32 | 0:22:37 | |
-I was truly enchanted here. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:40 | |
-I'm bound to see interesting people -again on this journey... | 0:22:52 | 0:22:56 | |
-..but I doubt I'll ever meet people -like the Dogon again. | 0:22:56 | 0:23:00 | |
-What makes them interesting -is the fact... | 0:23:01 | 0:23:04 | |
-..that they've kept out -external influences for centuries. | 0:23:04 | 0:23:08 | |
-Times change, though. -More tourists arrive every year. | 0:23:09 | 0:23:13 | |
-I know we help them financially... | 0:23:13 | 0:23:15 | |
-..but we're bound to change them -in the end. | 0:23:15 | 0:23:18 | |
-But people living -in some remote villages... | 0:23:19 | 0:23:21 | |
-..refuse to accept -tourists among them. | 0:23:22 | 0:23:24 | |
-And I'm glad of that! | 0:23:24 | 0:23:26 | |
-Next week, I'll have to re-pack -my case completely. | 0:23:32 | 0:23:36 | |
-I'll be freezing in Antarctica -and the South Pole. | 0:23:36 | 0:23:40 | |
-From the frying pan into the ice! | 0:23:40 | 0:23:43 | |
-Thermal knickers it is, then! | 0:23:43 | 0:23:45 | |
-S4C subtitles by Rh Sion Morgan | 0:23:45 | 0:23:48 |