L'Aber Wrac'h Codi Hwyl

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-The last time on Codi Hwyl, Dilwyn

-Morgan and John Pierce Jones...

-..sailed from Cardiff to Brittany.

-After a tough voyage, the Mystique

-is now safe in Aber Wrac'h harbour.

-Aber Wrac'h marina attracts sailors

-from all over Europe and beyond.

-Before exploring, Dilwyn has

-an important purchase to make.

-What do you want?

-A Breton flag.

-Ask them if they have one.

-Er... Monsieur...

-..flag... banner... flag... Breton?

-Ah, merci beaucoup.

-Which one do you want?

-Which one do you want?

-

-I don't mind.

-This one?

-Have you got any money?

-Have you got any money?

-

-Yes. Don't you have any money?

-No, well...

-No, well...

-

-What do you mean?

-Well, no.

-It's 17.50 euros.

-It's 17.50 euros.

-

-These t-shirts are nice.

-Breton t-shirts.

-66.30 euros, s'il vous plait.

-How much do they want?

-Oh, right.

-We wanted to buy a Breton flag

-out of courtesy...

-..since we only had a French one.

-Then he wanted to buy

-a Breton top and a beret...

-..like my old Aunty Jini.

-I haven't seen anyone

-wearing a beret...

-It wasn't just 49 euros

-for the shirt...

-..it was 19 euros for your flag.

-It's been a long day.

-I think we should go back

-to the boat and chill for a while.

-Here we go. This is the one we want.

-Alright. Take the other one down.

-I will.

-It's a maritime tradition for boats

-visiting other countries...

-..to fly that country's flag.

-Hurry up. Don't take so long,

-It's time for food.

-It's going up.

-It's going up.

-

-It doesn't matter.

-He has absolutely no interest

-in this.

-I think it's important

-to show respect.

-I'll take the French flag down.

-With the Breton flag fluttering

-above them, there's time to relax...

-..before planning

-the next stage of their voyage.

-There's also time to discover

-some nautical Breton traditions...

-..with a local Welsh speaker,

-Riwanon Kallag.

-Riwanon...

-Hello.

-Hello.

-

-Kenavo.

-You should say "mat an traou",

-not "kenavo"!

-Kenavo means goodbye.

-Mat an traou.

-Mat an traou.

-

-Welcome, how are you?

-Very well.

-I'm John, hello.

-I'm John, hello.

-

-Riwanon.

-Breton has close links to Welsh...

-..and some parts of a boat have

-similar names in the two languages.

-You say you know

-a lot of sailing terms in Breton.

-I remember words

-that my grandfather used long ago.

-Can you show them on that ship?

-It might help me remember.

-Will you excuse me?

-I need to look at tomorrow's charts

-for the Chenal du Four.

-So you're studying the map.

-I'm a bit nervous about it.

-It was nice to meet you...

-..and now I can say kenavo.

-Now you can say goodbye.

-He's learning.

-Goodbye.

-It's a lovely boat,

-dating from 1897.

-It's very nice.

-What is the Breton word for mast?

-It's hwylbren in Welsh

-and gwern in Breton.

-Gwern is a type of tree.

-The word gwernen in Welsh

-also means mast.

-A good tree.

-What is the Breton word for a sail?

-It's hwyl in Welsh

-and gouel in Breton.

-There are some words

-that are very similar...

-..and others

-that I've never heard before.

-I used to remember all the names.

-I had forgotten that bwrdd llong

-means deck. I tend to say deck.

-Dilwyn is more focused on plotting

-their next voyage to Brest.

-Apparently this is

-quite a tricky journey.

-The weather has been fine

-as we sailed down.

-Tomorrow, we'll be sailing around

-the nose of Brittany...

-..towards the Bay of Biscay.

-We'll be sailing through

-the Chenal du Four.

-It must be in the top ten

-places in the world...

-..with the highest tides.

-We could have a tide

-of 8 knots tomorrow.

-I'm a bit worried. We need

-to time the voyage just right.

-My biggest worry is that the tide

-will be taking us southwards...

-..but they're promising

-northerly winds.

-Once we've started,

-there's no turning back.

-We could get stuck there.

-We'll need to be on our way

-by 6.00am.

-I think getting John out of bed

-will be a problem.

-I'll have to get up early to make

-sure John is awake and ready to go.

-First, we need to get out of

-Aber Wrac'h.

-The pilot book says that only locals

-should sail from here in darkness.

-So tomorrow's going to be

-a difficult day.

-I'm looking forward to it

-but I must admit I'm a bit nervous.

-There are lots of things

-that could go wrong.

-John Pierce Jones

-will need to be at his best.

-First, they visit a place that

-has made this part of Brittany...

-..famous throughout Wales...

-..an onion farm...

-specifically, Luc Calvez's farm.

-His ancestors used to come

-to Wales to sell onions...

-..true Johnny Onions.

-You're here on an onion farm...

-We've been growing onions here

-for three generations...

-..my father, my grandfather...

-We've grown the same variety

-for a hundred years on this farm.

-And Wales?

-We also export onions to Wales

-using the "Johnnys".

-Yes, Johnny Onions.

-These are lovely onions.

-Oooh. Very good.

-It's fascinating to think

-that the Johnny Onions who came...

-..to the Lleyn Peninsular

-could have come from this farm.

-The Johnny Onions tradition

-continues to this day...

-..in some parts of Wales.

-You should stick to your own row.

-No, we need to share rows. If you

-see a bad one, leave it behind.

-What happens here...

-..when it's time

-to harvest the onions...

-..all the farmers

-in the area come to help each other.

-Kneeling in the soil

-is making my knees raw.

-We need that padding

-farmers used to use.

-Look how long the rows are.

-Look how long the rows are.

-

-They're never-ending.

-We'll be here all day.

-I'll take this over to the horse.

-Yes, over to the horse.

-Put it in the back.

-The back? The front.

-Caseg (mare) is kazeg.

-Words for horses and carts

-are similar in Breton.

-But words for the different parts

-of a harness aren't the same.

-I'm starting to understand

-the sizes of onion.

-Look at the difference.

-This red one is good.

-This one would win

-at the Llanuwchllyn Show.

-If someone comes to your house

-on a bike and wearing a beret...

-..selling organic onions...

-..I might have picked them.

-Wales and Brittany are connected

-by more than just Johnny Onions.

-# O! Breizh, ma bro

-me 'gar ma bro #

-# Tra mor yn fur i'r bur hoff bau #

-# ..digabestr ma bro! #

-We sing the same national anthem.

-The words are the same.

-But the culture and the way of life

-here is so different.

-What do you say for barf (beard)?

-What do you say for barf (beard)?

-

-Barv.

-Unan, daou, tri, pevar, pemp,

-c'hwec'h, seizh, eizh, nav, dek.

-Un, dau, tri, pedwar, pump, chwech,

-saith, wyth, naw, deg.

-The words are similar.

-Geriadur (dictionary).

-Yes, geiriadur in Welsh.

-Breton and Welsh are related.

-We're cousins.

-We're very close to each other.

-It's amazing how similar

-the languages are.

-A lot of their words

-are archaic in Welsh.

-Their word for wheel isn't

-used in Welsh much these days.

-Thank you.

-Trugarez (Thank you).

-Cousins.

-Thank you very much.

-I think they've been eating onions.

-O may the old languages endure.

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-It's 5.00am and the new moon

-can still be seen as day dawns.

-Is John ready?

-John? Come on.

-John? It's time to leave.

-I can't do anything with him

-and we have to leave.

-That's the third time

-I've called him.

-We have to leave by 6.00am

-or we'll be stuck here for two days.

-We'll have to go

-with him still in bed.

-Sometimes, you need

-the patience of a saint.

-Dilwyn must steer the Mystique

-out of Aber Wrac'h harbour...

-..without the captain's help.

-It's difficult.

-There's a narrow channel with

-rocks and hidden underwater dangers.

-We're on our way out of Aber Wrac'h.

-It wasn't easy.

-It's difficult to steer

-out of the port in the dark.

-It's only out of the marina,

-but when you're on your own...

-I tried waking John and failed...

-..but I had to leave.

-As the saying goes,

-tide and time wait for no man.

-I really hope I've got the tide

-times and the weather right.

-The sea will be unforgiving

-if I've got my calculations wrong.

-I'm looking forward to heading

-for Brest and some new adventures.

-And I'll show John

-I'm disappointed in him.

-I really am disappointed.

-He said he wanted

-to skipper the boat.

-Well, he'll have to come

-to the office.

-To reach Brest, they'll have to sail

-the Mystique some forty miles...

-..through the Chenal du Four,

-famous for its very strong tides.

-A boat could easily end up

-on the rocks...

-..unless the plotting

-and timing are perfect.

-Dilwyn?

-Dilwyn? Why didn't you wake me?

-I tried.

-It was very irresponsible

-to set out on your own.

-After all, I'm the captain.

-It's a lovely morning.

-It's a lovely morning.

-

-Yes.

-Do you want to make a cuppa?

-Do you want to make a cuppa?

-

-No.

-Why not?

-I'm not very happy this morning.

-Why?

-Because you wouldn't get up.

-You didn't wake me.

-You're supposed to wake me.

-I tried three times...

-..so I've got a short fuse

-this morning.

-It's OK, we're out now.

-We took it steadily.

-I'm in his bad books.

-I didn't hear him knocking.

-He's been waiting to go

-and work on his charts.

-He's cross. He's not talking to me.

-It's partly my fault.

-I didn't set an alarm.

-He tried to wake me at 5.15am

-but I didn't hear him.

-OK, it was my fault, I admit it.

-I'm enough of a man.

-I apologize for sleeping so long.

-I just can't hold a grudge

-against him.

-There's something endearing

-about him... somehow.

-Any chance of a cuppa?

-You're unbelievable.

-You're unbelievable.

-

-Thanks, Dilwyn.

-I'll make a... cuppa.

-You're worth your weight in gold,

-Dilwyn...

-..solid gold.

-One thing with Dilwyn and with me is

-we don't hold a grudge for long.

-He's over it now, he's OK.

-I'm so glad he's here.

-He has the patience of Job, but

-I wouldn't tell him to his face.

-We're friends again.

-I couldn't be mad for long.

-Now I'm making a cuppa for him and

-he's sitting there like Lord Muck.

-He can earn his keep in a minute.

-He can get his iPad out and help

-steer us through this channel.

-The tides there are very strong

-but the weather seems fine.

-Keep everything crossed.

-While John plots their course,

-Dilwyn gets ready to race.

-We're starting to hit the waves.

-I can see a boat in front of us.

-My competitive side is emerging,

-and it's only just after 6.00am.

-With the sails raised

-to build up some speed...

-..Dilwyn, John and cameraman Geoff

-relax with a cuppa.

-Your coffee, your majesty.

-Thank you, my lad.

-Don't get too comfortable.

-We're very close to that.

-We're very close to that.

-

-Whose fault is that?

-I didn't bring us this way.

-I didn't bring us this way.

-

-Then take us away.

-Why don't you take it right down?

-Why don't you take it right down?

-

-I can't. We're on the wind.

-We were too close

-to move away from it.

-This indicates a hazard over there.

-But we don't need to worry.

-It's harder to handle the boat

-when you're sailing.

-When you're using the motor,

-you can change direction...

-..but the sails will take you

-wherever they want to go...

-..within reason, obviously.

-So you trim them to stay on course.

-We were too close back there

-because we were using the sails.

-At the moment, the tide

-is stronger than the wind...

-..so the sails

-have lost their effectiveness.

-I'm going to take the front sail

-down and start the engine.

-Then we'll start to tack

-up and down the channel.

-We've caught up

-with some much bigger boats...

-..so John Pierce Jones and Dilwyn

-Morgan have made their mark...

-..in the French racing world.

-There's definitely

-a competitive streak there.

-But that's a very good thing.

-How's it looking down there?

-He's fallen asleep,

-sitting in his seat.

-He hasn't been up for long.

-He's fast asleep.

-When you consider that

-this is a world-famous channel...

-..that they say all sailors

-should try out...

-..to test themselves

-against the tides and winds...

-..it's a bit like

-walking up Snowdon.

-There's a convoy of boats here.

-It's OK but it takes away

-all the adventure.

-But John and I can tick the box

-to say...

-..we've sailed through

-the Chenal du Four...

-..even though he's down there,

-eating his fourth pork pie.

-Four pork pies, two packets of

-crisps, a Welsh cake, coffee.

-This morning's diet.

-It's around 10.30am.

-He's eating well.

-As you were, Number One,

-as you were.

-There's not much

-to see in the Chenal du Four.

-You were just trying to scare me.

-It's one of the places you should

-have on your sailing CV.

-For sailors years ago...

-..this was the final difficult

-obstacle on their journey home.

-The old sailing ships?

-With those huge sails as they

-came up from the Bay of Biscay.

-This was their final challenge.

-As they leave the Chenal du Four...

-..they're on the final leg

-of this journey.

-They turn eastwards,

-into the busy port of Brest.

-We're turning into the Bay of Brest.

-We've gone through

-the famous Chenal Four.

-It was like sailing on a pond.

-It was like sailing on a pond.

-

-A real millpond.

-I'll take that as a success.

-Also, I would take my cap off

-to you, but it's too cold.

-Your piloting and timing

-were perfect.

-I have to say,

-Aber Wrac'h was so beautiful...

-..it's a lovely spot,

-a fantastic little place.

-Now we're heading to a huge city.

-It'll be quite different

-to Aber Wrac'h.

-There's a marina, so we can keep

-ourselves to ourselves.

-It's the busiest port

-in the West of France.

-They say there's a lot of traffic.

-There's a lot of militaly traffic.

-Militaly?

-Militaly?

-

-Militaly.

-Say it again.

-Miritary.

-Maritime, military. It's military.

-Military.

-Geoff had better be careful

-what he films...

-..in case they think he's a spy.

-Geoffrey.

-As they prepare to land,

-John finally jumps into action.

-He's full of enthusiasm

-this morning.

-He enjoyed the journey.

-He's waving and smiling.

-He's ready to do his work

-on the bow.

-I think he's started to relax.

-He's over the trip from Cardiff and

-is now into the spirit of things.

-That's tricky. We'll need some help.

-Everyone needs to be ready.

-Even the film crew lends a hand.

-We were within this much

-to the wall.

-It's the hardest scenario to get in.

-The wind is blowing the boat

-away from the pontoon...

-..it's narrow between the two boats

-and there's no room to turn in.

-Terrible.

-We were lucky to have

-a young lady to help us.

-You were so good on that journey...

-..so I'll buy you a cuppa

-and a kouign-amann.

-You're going to buy a cuppa for me!

-You were dead-on.

-You said we'd be here at 3.00pm.

-The weather was on our side

-and here we are in Brest at 3.00pm.

-Thank goodness.

-Thank goodness.

-

-It's a good job we left when we did.

-Quick, before you forget

-you're buying me a cuppa.

-Enjoy your cuppa

-and the buttery cake.

-The next time on Codi Hwyl,

-there's a new adventure in Brest...

-No, no, no.

-..and a trip up the Elorn River

-to Landerneau.

-His legs are all over the place.

-S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.

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