Mererid Hopwood Crwydro

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-"Treguddylan, Cranged, Carn Segan,

-Garn Barcud, Garn Ogof, Garn Llys,

-"Garn Gowil, Garn Glotas,

-Garn Fechan,

-"Llanwnnwr, Caire, and Tre-llys."

-Mererid Hopwood

-was born and raised in Cardiff...

-..but her heart is in Pembrokeshire.

-Today we're in Pen Caer.

-The views are truly magnificent.

-There is also a certain romance

-to the place names.

-"Tregwynt, Plas y Binc

-and Penysgwarn,

-"Penbwchdu, Pen-parc and Pen-dre,

-"Pen-ffordd, Pen-y-groes

-and Trefelgarn,

-"Tresinwen, Glandwr, Felindre."

-Heather and gorse are in flower.

-Carn Wnda is an ideal place

-to begin a walk.

-Carn Wnda is an ideal place

-to begin a walk.

-

-Yes, we're on top of the world.

-Nothing but sea and sky.

-The heather is pretty, but the gorse

-isn't as pretty as usual.

-This is poor man's gorse.

-It's usually a deeper gold.

-We'll soon be able to see a lot

-of the places we'll visit today.

-Where are you taking me?

-From here

-down to Llanwnda parish church.

-Then on to Strumble Head,

-past Pont Eglwys.

-From there to Garn Fawr

-and on to Aber Mawr.

-If you're a good boy, I'll show you

-places which never appear on maps.

-Don't go too fast here.

-I want you to stop here,

-next to this boulder.

-How would you like

-to be buried here?

-How would you like

-to be buried here?

-

-Good gracious.

-It's a cromlech.

-It's so easy to miss.

-There are many cromlechs

-in this area.

-Look at those stones.

-I'd have walked straight past.

-Do you want to know its name?

-Carreg Samson.

-On Garn Gilfach over there...

-..Samson the giant

-was angry with his wife.

-So he grabbed this stone

-and flung it...

-..and this is where it landed.

-Just imagine.

-We're on ancient sacred ground.

-Samson was a busy giant - there are

-Samson stones all over Wales!

-Samson was a busy giant - there are

-Samson stones all over Wales!

-

-But this is the real one!

-The original one.

-And there behind you

-is the metropolis.

-Pontiago.

-That little village?

-Calling it a village

-would be a promotion!

-My mother was born

-in Pontiago smithy...

-..as were many of my ancestors.

-We couldn't wish for a better day.

-We couldn't wish for a better day.

-

-We've been lucky.

-You don't want too much sun

-when you're walking.

-This is fine.

-There's usually a mist,

-or "nugen", as they say.

-Is that sea mist?

-Is that sea mist?

-

-Yes, sea mist.

-I don't think "nugen"

-is in the University Dictionary.

-I don't think "nugen"

-is in the University Dictionary.

-

-A new word.

-The church of Saint Gwyndaf.

-Yes. This is the parish church

-of Llanwnda.

-Gerald of Wales preached here

-for the Crusades.

-It's an ancient church, but the

-invading French burned it in 1797.

-Look - this is a lepers' window.

-Many churches

-of this period have one.

-Lepers could stand here but they

-couldn't join in the service...

-..because of their disease.

-Pilgrims must have travelled

-to St David's hoping for a cure.

-But they weren't allowed in here.

-Poor things.

-Now then.

-Brambles are growing in.

-Brambles are growing in.

-

-A very old church.

-Brambles are growing in.

-

-A very old church.

-

-There's lots to see.

-We'll take our time.

-Look at this.

-It's a Parry Bible,

-over 400 years old.

-It's burned around the edges.

-It was burned by the French, who

-shamelessly set fire to the place.

-It's open

-on John the Baptist's sermon.

-And this Communion chalice

-has an interesting history.

-It was stolen from here...

-..and discovered again recently in

-an antique shop not far from here.

-It bears the name Llanwnda -

-that's how it was recognised.

-"Poculum Eclesie De Llanwnda".

-"Eclesie Llanwnda" -

-Llanwnda church.

-They're often found

-in Pembrokeshire churches.

-Look up there among the old rafters.

-On the right hand side

-of the third rafter...

-..can you see a face?

-The face of a monk.

-I don't know if it was supposed to

-frighten parishioners.

-I find it quite spooky.

-Let's go out into the sun.

-Let's go out into the sun.

-

-Very interesting.

-Is this timber

-from the original church?

-Is this timber

-from the original church?

-

-That's right.

-It's going to be renovated

-with Lottery money.

-There's a lot of work to do.

-There's a lot of work to do.

-

-They'll be here for a while.

-I love the vocabulary of this area.

-Like calling fields "perci".

-Like calling fields "perci".

-

-And "wes" for yes.

-Another thing people do...

-..is refer to the second person

-as the third person.

-When my husband, Martin,

-first came here...

-..my grandmother asked him,

-"What does he say he does?"

-She meant, "What work do you do?"

-He didn't know

-who she was talking to!

-When I was small,

-I knew I was in trouble...

-..when Mam said,

-"May the girl come here!"

-It was time to go and hide.

-Now, this isn't a road,

-it's what's called a "feidr".

-I'd call it a cart lane.

-Is that what "feidr" means?

-A lane with high hedges.

-No matter how tall you are, you

-can't see anything on either side.

-The hedges hide secrets.

-I've got something to show you

-here by this gate.

-Can you see that stone over there?

-Yes.

-Yes.

-

-That's Carregwastad.

-Yes.

-

-That's Carregwastad.

-

-Where the French landed.

-That's right.

-That's right.

-

-People head for the Coastal Path

-when they come to Pembrokeshire.

-Famous places like Carregwastad.

-But there's so much more here.

-But there's so much more here.

-

-It's a pretty spot.

-But I wanted to show you

-a few other things today.

-Shall we move on?

-Shall we move on?

-

-Yes. I love this weather.

-This may explain why there are

-no bad people left in Pen Caer.

-There's no moss on this stone.

-Can you see this circular mark?

-What is it?

-It's a heel mark.

-The Devil came to Pen Caer,

-but people had enough of him.

-So they chased him away

-until they came to this spot...

-..where the Devil

-jumped over the hedge...

-..leaving his hoof print here.

-He jumped into the sea

-and never came back!

-And that's a true story?

-And that's a true story?

-

-It's gospel truth!

-I believe you.

-I believe you.

-

-I don't think so.

-Another cart lane.

-You're right - you're learning fast!

-This lane is extremely ancient.

-It leads to an Iron Age fort.

-People have been coming here

-for thousands of years.

-You can see remains here and there.

-This is Garn Fawr

-and that's Garn Fechan.

-Both have stone remains of villages.

-There are wells everywhere.

-It's so quiet and wild.

-Come over here.

-It's worth turning from the path

-sometimes.

-I want to show you this well.

-An Iron Age well.

-They had to have water to drink.

-The well's dry at the moment.

-Now stand up and turn round.

-See that building with a white roof?

-See that building with a white roof?

-

-In the trees?

-That's a Baptist chapel.

-My grandfather was a minister there.

-That's where I got married.

-The chapel's called Harmony.

-I don't think

-there's another Harmony in Wales.

-I don't think

-there's another Harmony in Wales.

-

-The marriage is still strong...

-..so Harmony must have worked!

-I hope so!

-You go first.

-We're now approaching the fort

-itself, the highest part.

-They could see everything

-from up here.

-That column denotes

-the highest point in Pen Caer.

-It's nice that the sun is out.

-This is quite slippery.

-You need feet and hands.

-You need feet and hands.

-

-Don't fall - you'll fall on me!

-That's ok!

-I like to sit up here

-and look around.

-Sometimes, you can actually see

-Ireland from here...

-..as well as Bardsey and Lleyn.

-You can't even see

-St David's Head today.

-What did you call this mist?

-What did you call this mist?

-

-"Nugen".

-Learn Welsh, Iolo!

-Where next?

-I don't know

-if I'll take you any further!

-You laugh at Carreg Samson,

-you don't believe my stories.

-If you behave,

-I might show you something else.

-And if you don't believe me,

-I'm going home!

-And if you don't believe me,

-I'm going home!

-

-That's me told!

-"Felin fowr, Salem and Rhosywel,

-"Rhosloyw, Caer-lem, Trelimin,

-"Tresisillt, Ginon and Trehowel,

-"Trefaser, Bristgarn, Trehilin.

-"Treathro, Treronw, Dancastell,

-"Danymwni, Gelli, Tai-bach,

-"Garngilfach, Harmoni and Castell,

-Trefisheg, Ty-Coch, Morfa Fach."

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-"Bryneglwys, Brynefail, Glanffynnon,

-"Llwyn Onn, North Pole

-and Llys-y-fran,

-"Llysyronnen, Gwtws

-and Lanffynnon,

-"Llanferran, Goodhope and Goitan.

-"Bwcidwll, Carne, Pontiago,

-Pwllnadrodd, Cile and Ty-gwyn,

-"Ty'r Henner, Banc, Sandiego,

-"Penrhyn, Garreg-lwyd,

-Gwndwn-gwyn."

-The wind's died down a little.

-The wind's died down a little.

-

-Wait a minute,

-I want to show you something.

-Have you heard about "cwtshys"?

-This is a "cwtsh" among "cwtshys"!

-You're in for a real treat.

-Don't look so doubtful!

-Look in there.

-What do you think that is?

-What do you think that is?

-

-An old shed of some kind?

-Close.

-It's an Iron Age hut.

-You've heard

-of "Teulu Bach Nantoer"?

-Well, a little family lived there

-in the Iron Age.

-There were lots of these round here.

-This has survived completely,

-even its roof.

-Let's go inside.

-It's dark!

-It's dark!

-

-Is there enough room?

-It's dark!

-

-Is there enough room?

-

-There's enough room for me!

-They were small people.

-There's just about room to stand up.

-I need to lose weight!

-It's warm in here.

-There's no draught.

-Good gracious!

-Good gracious!

-

-Good?

-Good gracious!

-

-Good?

-

-Very good.

-I'd give it 10 out of 10 and a star!

-Things are getting better!

-This is the memorial to Dewi Emrys.

-Dewi Emrys is very famous.

-Everyone associates Pwll Deri

-with Dewi Emrys.

-A wonderful spot.

-What does it say?

-There's a couplet

-from his famous poem "Pwll Deri".

-"And such thoughts come to you

-When you sit above Pwll Deri."

-Beautiful!

-Beautiful!

-

-You can come here

-to gather your thoughts.

-It's a lovely place.

-It's a lovely place.

-

-And the weather's still fine.

-We're on the Coastal Path

-for the first time.

-You're right. This part is pretty.

-Before the Coastal Path existed, the

-family had a boat in Porthsychan.

-When this path was built,

-we had to move it.

-We used to leave it there overnight

-with the oars in it.

-And no-one stole it?

-And no-one stole it?

-

-No, but those days are long gone.

-Times change.

-You have to have moorings now.

-People used to leave

-their doors unlocked.

-People used to leave

-their doors unlocked.

-

-That's right.

-Look at this tree on the left.

-Look at this tree on the left.

-

-It's bent to one side.

-The wind shapes them.

-The wind shapes them.

-

-That's how bushes are in Pen Caer.

-There aren't many trees,

-but they're all like that.

-The wind blows them

-but they refuse to yield.

-A certain hardiness.

-They say the roots grow stronger

-on one side.

-To fight back against the wind?

-To fight back against the wind?

-

-Yes, against the wind.

-Can we see our journey's end?

-Can we see our journey's end?

-

-Aber Mawr, yes.

-In the distance.

-In the distance.

-

-We've got a fair distance to walk.

-What do you call stiles? "Stigle"?

-No, my father would say "sticyll"

-and I'd say "gamfa".

-There's a bench here -

-Iron Age, no doubt!

-No, it's made from wood!

-Are you sure

-it isn't the Devil's bench?!

-Are you sure

-it isn't the Devil's bench?!

-

-You watch yourself!

-From here you can see lots of caves.

-You can see everything.

-You can see everything.

-

-Pwll Deri, and the shadow

-of one hill on another.

-It's beautiful.

-It's easy to see how such a view

-can inspire a painter or a poet.

-But I still don't know how someone

-sets about writing good poetry.

-What do you mean by that?

-I'm convinced that everyone in the

-world, at some time or another...

-..has composed lines

-which are poetry.

-Not everyone wins the Chair.

-No...

-No...

-

-Only one woman has ever won

-the National Eisteddfod Chair.

-So they say,

-for writing in strict metre.

-I don't know.

-There's a certain craft

-to writing in strict metre.

-There are skills to learn,

-and anyone can learn them.

-There's a set of patterns

-that you learn.

-You need a good teacher.

-You need a good teacher.

-

-But if that's true...

-..anyone could do it.

-You need something special.

-These questions are difficult.

-At times, something strikes you

-and you feel you want to say it.

-I think you're the last person

-to judge your own work.

-I think it's rare

-for someone to write something...

-..and be completely happy with it.

-If it pleases someone else, great.

-If it's given you pleasure,

-even better.

-When you write something...

-..do you know in your heart

-that it's quite good?

-Without being big-headed.

-You obviously

-don't know me at all, Iolo!

-Nothing's ever good enough.

-Sometimes I think,

-"Right, I'm satisfied with that."

-But in my case,

-that happens very rarely.

-Perhaps that will improve with time.

-I'll become more satisfied.

-I've so much to learn.

-What about winning the Chair

-at the National Eisteddfod?

-It must have been

-an incredible feeling...

-..to stand up in front of everyone.

-..to stand up in front of everyone.

-

-Yes, it was very exciting.

-I've repeated this story

-hundreds of times.

-As I got up, my husband whispered...

-.."If someone else stands up,

-you sit down!"

-We couldn't believe it was true!

-It was a wonderful day

-and I'll never forget it.

-It was a real thrill.

-That gave me a lot of pleasure.

-But I was still worried that the

-adjudication would be critical.

-But it wasn't.

-No, it was alright.

-They were very good adjudicators!

-Where do you keep the Chair?

-It takes pride of place

-in the corner of the lounge.

-I polish it now and again!

-It's a nice Chair.

-We've walked

-through some lovely landscapes.

-Have you been struck by inspiration?

-Are you angling for an englyn?

-Are you angling for an englyn?

-

-Yes, I am!

-Do you have one for me?

-I'm not sure you deserve an englyn.

-You've been so rude

-about the things I've showed you!

-"For two days, with Iolo, I trod

-old paths from cwtsh to cwtsh,

-"And the secret countryside

-Became for us a new legend."

-"And the secret countryside

-Became for us a new legend."

-

-That's superb.

-Have you had an englyn

-on this programme before?

-Have you had an englyn

-on this programme before?

-

-You're right, I don't deserve it!

-That's superb. Well done.

-Here we are at Aber Mawr,

-our journey's end.

-We call it Aber Mowr.

-This is where William Lewis came

-to write hymns.

-'Cof Am Y Cyfiawn Iesu' and so on.

-'Cof Am Y Cyfiawn Iesu' and so on.

-

-Someone else

-who was inspired by this area!

-I used to go to Aber Bach,

-round the corner.

-We had a boat called Glas y Dorlan.

-What a beautiful name.

-This is a great place.

-This is a great place.

-

-It's lovely.

-I love hearing the waves

-dragging the pebbles out to sea.

-It's lovely.

-It's lovely.

-

-There's something about the sea.

-You can just sit and look at it.

-Feeling free.

-We've been so lucky

-with the weather.

-Yes, we have.

-Yes, we have.

-

-It's so fine.

-We're sitting here, and this

-is a quiet, peaceful place.

-But back in the 19th century,

-about 1840...

-..Isambard Kingdom Brunel came here.

-There are remains of his tunnels

-in the hills over there.

-He wanted to bring a railway here.

-Imagine if that had happened.

-This would be a port.

-This would be a port.

-

-Like Liverpool.

-This would be a port.

-

-Like Liverpool.

-

-Or Fishguard.

-It would be even busier.

-They'd hoped that ships

-could sail to America from here.

-That's incredible.

-I'm so glad

-that plan didn't work out.

-We spoke earlier

-about the beauty of place names.

-Aber Mawr, the names of the hills,

-all kinds of things.

-They're fantastic.

-Rachel Philipps James wrote

-a great poem, 'Enwau Pencaer'.

-The poem lists

-all these place names.

-It sounds so pretty.

-Visitors who come here just for a

-day or so miss out on such things.

-They see the amazing views

-but they don't hear the names.

-They don't look for the names.

-That's true of most of us.

-We don't see things

-because we don't look for them.

-Like 'Lliged Corgi'!

-You need imagination to call

-a smallholding 'Corgi's Eyes'!

-Every name tells a story.

-"Llanwnda, Llanfenws,

-Pwllcrochan,

-"Pwllddawnau, Ty-llwyd,

-Pwll Deri,

-"Ty Capel, Garnfolch

-and Porth Ddwgan,

-"Rhydyfferem and Lliged Corgi.

-"Gofercei, Llanrhidian, Tremarchog,

-"Trenewy, Panteurig, Dolgar.

-"Garn Fowr, Pantybeudy, Trefeyog,

-"And all of these places

-are in Pen Caer."

-S4C subtitles by

-TROSOL Cyf.