Mererid Hopwood Crwydro


Mererid Hopwood

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-"Treguddylan, Cranged, Carn Segan,

-Garn Barcud, Garn Ogof, Garn Llys,

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-"Garn Gowil, Garn Glotas,

-Garn Fechan,

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-"Llanwnnwr, Caire, and Tre-llys."

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-Mererid Hopwood

-was born and raised in Cardiff...

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-..but her heart is in Pembrokeshire.

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-Today we're in Pen Caer.

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-The views are truly magnificent.

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-There is also a certain romance

-to the place names.

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-"Tregwynt, Plas y Binc

-and Penysgwarn,

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-"Penbwchdu, Pen-parc and Pen-dre,

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-"Pen-ffordd, Pen-y-groes

-and Trefelgarn,

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-"Tresinwen, Glandwr, Felindre."

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-Heather and gorse are in flower.

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-Carn Wnda is an ideal place

-to begin a walk.

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-Carn Wnda is an ideal place

-to begin a walk.

-

-Yes, we're on top of the world.

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-Nothing but sea and sky.

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-The heather is pretty, but the gorse

-isn't as pretty as usual.

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-This is poor man's gorse.

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-It's usually a deeper gold.

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-We'll soon be able to see a lot

-of the places we'll visit today.

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-Where are you taking me?

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-From here

-down to Llanwnda parish church.

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-Then on to Strumble Head,

-past Pont Eglwys.

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-From there to Garn Fawr

-and on to Aber Mawr.

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-If you're a good boy, I'll show you

-places which never appear on maps.

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-Don't go too fast here.

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-I want you to stop here,

-next to this boulder.

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-How would you like

-to be buried here?

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-How would you like

-to be buried here?

-

-Good gracious.

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-It's a cromlech.

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-It's so easy to miss.

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-There are many cromlechs

-in this area.

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-Look at those stones.

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-I'd have walked straight past.

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-Do you want to know its name?

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-Carreg Samson.

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-On Garn Gilfach over there...

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-..Samson the giant

-was angry with his wife.

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-So he grabbed this stone

-and flung it...

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-..and this is where it landed.

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-Just imagine.

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-We're on ancient sacred ground.

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-Samson was a busy giant - there are

-Samson stones all over Wales!

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-Samson was a busy giant - there are

-Samson stones all over Wales!

-

-But this is the real one!

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-The original one.

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-And there behind you

-is the metropolis.

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-Pontiago.

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-That little village?

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-Calling it a village

-would be a promotion!

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-My mother was born

-in Pontiago smithy...

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-..as were many of my ancestors.

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-We couldn't wish for a better day.

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-We couldn't wish for a better day.

-

-We've been lucky.

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-You don't want too much sun

-when you're walking.

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-This is fine.

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-There's usually a mist,

-or "nugen", as they say.

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-Is that sea mist?

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-Is that sea mist?

-

-Yes, sea mist.

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-I don't think "nugen"

-is in the University Dictionary.

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-I don't think "nugen"

-is in the University Dictionary.

-

-A new word.

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-The church of Saint Gwyndaf.

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-Yes. This is the parish church

-of Llanwnda.

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-Gerald of Wales preached here

-for the Crusades.

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-It's an ancient church, but the

-invading French burned it in 1797.

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-Look - this is a lepers' window.

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-Many churches

-of this period have one.

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-Lepers could stand here but they

-couldn't join in the service...

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-..because of their disease.

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-Pilgrims must have travelled

-to St David's hoping for a cure.

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-But they weren't allowed in here.

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-Poor things.

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-Now then.

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-Brambles are growing in.

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-Brambles are growing in.

-

-A very old church.

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-Brambles are growing in.

-

-A very old church.

-

-There's lots to see.

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-We'll take our time.

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-Look at this.

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-It's a Parry Bible,

-over 400 years old.

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-It's burned around the edges.

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-It was burned by the French, who

-shamelessly set fire to the place.

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-It's open

-on John the Baptist's sermon.

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-And this Communion chalice

-has an interesting history.

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-It was stolen from here...

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-..and discovered again recently in

-an antique shop not far from here.

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-It bears the name Llanwnda -

-that's how it was recognised.

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-"Poculum Eclesie De Llanwnda".

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-"Eclesie Llanwnda" -

-Llanwnda church.

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-They're often found

-in Pembrokeshire churches.

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-Look up there among the old rafters.

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-On the right hand side

-of the third rafter...

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-..can you see a face?

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-The face of a monk.

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-I don't know if it was supposed to

-frighten parishioners.

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-I find it quite spooky.

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-Let's go out into the sun.

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-Let's go out into the sun.

-

-Very interesting.

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-Is this timber

-from the original church?

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-Is this timber

-from the original church?

-

-That's right.

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-It's going to be renovated

-with Lottery money.

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-There's a lot of work to do.

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-There's a lot of work to do.

-

-They'll be here for a while.

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-I love the vocabulary of this area.

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-Like calling fields "perci".

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-Like calling fields "perci".

-

-And "wes" for yes.

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-Another thing people do...

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-..is refer to the second person

-as the third person.

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-When my husband, Martin,

-first came here...

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-..my grandmother asked him,

-"What does he say he does?"

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-She meant, "What work do you do?"

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-He didn't know

-who she was talking to!

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-When I was small,

-I knew I was in trouble...

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-..when Mam said,

-"May the girl come here!"

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-It was time to go and hide.

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-Now, this isn't a road,

-it's what's called a "feidr".

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-I'd call it a cart lane.

-Is that what "feidr" means?

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-A lane with high hedges.

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-No matter how tall you are, you

-can't see anything on either side.

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-The hedges hide secrets.

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-I've got something to show you

-here by this gate.

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-Can you see that stone over there?

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-Yes.

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-Yes.

-

-That's Carregwastad.

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-Yes.

-

-That's Carregwastad.

-

-Where the French landed.

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-That's right.

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-That's right.

-

-People head for the Coastal Path

-when they come to Pembrokeshire.

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-Famous places like Carregwastad.

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-But there's so much more here.

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-But there's so much more here.

-

-It's a pretty spot.

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-But I wanted to show you

-a few other things today.

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-Shall we move on?

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-Shall we move on?

-

-Yes. I love this weather.

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-This may explain why there are

-no bad people left in Pen Caer.

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-There's no moss on this stone.

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-Can you see this circular mark?

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-What is it?

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-It's a heel mark.

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-The Devil came to Pen Caer,

-but people had enough of him.

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-So they chased him away

-until they came to this spot...

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-..where the Devil

-jumped over the hedge...

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-..leaving his hoof print here.

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-He jumped into the sea

-and never came back!

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-And that's a true story?

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-And that's a true story?

-

-It's gospel truth!

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-I believe you.

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-I believe you.

-

-I don't think so.

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-Another cart lane.

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-You're right - you're learning fast!

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-This lane is extremely ancient.

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-It leads to an Iron Age fort.

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-People have been coming here

-for thousands of years.

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-You can see remains here and there.

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-This is Garn Fawr

-and that's Garn Fechan.

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-Both have stone remains of villages.

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-There are wells everywhere.

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-It's so quiet and wild.

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-Come over here.

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-It's worth turning from the path

-sometimes.

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-I want to show you this well.

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-An Iron Age well.

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-They had to have water to drink.

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-The well's dry at the moment.

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-Now stand up and turn round.

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-See that building with a white roof?

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-See that building with a white roof?

-

-In the trees?

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-That's a Baptist chapel.

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-My grandfather was a minister there.

-That's where I got married.

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-The chapel's called Harmony.

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-I don't think

-there's another Harmony in Wales.

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-I don't think

-there's another Harmony in Wales.

-

-The marriage is still strong...

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-..so Harmony must have worked!

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-I hope so!

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-You go first.

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-We're now approaching the fort

-itself, the highest part.

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-They could see everything

-from up here.

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-That column denotes

-the highest point in Pen Caer.

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-It's nice that the sun is out.

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-This is quite slippery.

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-You need feet and hands.

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-You need feet and hands.

-

-Don't fall - you'll fall on me!

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-That's ok!

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-I like to sit up here

-and look around.

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-Sometimes, you can actually see

-Ireland from here...

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-..as well as Bardsey and Lleyn.

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-You can't even see

-St David's Head today.

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-What did you call this mist?

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-What did you call this mist?

-

-"Nugen".

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-Learn Welsh, Iolo!

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-Where next?

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-I don't know

-if I'll take you any further!

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-You laugh at Carreg Samson,

-you don't believe my stories.

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-If you behave,

-I might show you something else.

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-And if you don't believe me,

-I'm going home!

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-And if you don't believe me,

-I'm going home!

-

-That's me told!

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-"Felin fowr, Salem and Rhosywel,

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-"Rhosloyw, Caer-lem, Trelimin,

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-"Tresisillt, Ginon and Trehowel,

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-"Trefaser, Bristgarn, Trehilin.

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-"Treathro, Treronw, Dancastell,

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-"Danymwni, Gelli, Tai-bach,

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-"Garngilfach, Harmoni and Castell,

-Trefisheg, Ty-Coch, Morfa Fach."

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-888

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-"Bryneglwys, Brynefail, Glanffynnon,

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-"Llwyn Onn, North Pole

-and Llys-y-fran,

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-"Llysyronnen, Gwtws

-and Lanffynnon,

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-"Llanferran, Goodhope and Goitan.

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-"Bwcidwll, Carne, Pontiago,

-Pwllnadrodd, Cile and Ty-gwyn,

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-"Ty'r Henner, Banc, Sandiego,

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-"Penrhyn, Garreg-lwyd,

-Gwndwn-gwyn."

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-The wind's died down a little.

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-The wind's died down a little.

-

-Wait a minute,

-I want to show you something.

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-Have you heard about "cwtshys"?

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-This is a "cwtsh" among "cwtshys"!

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-You're in for a real treat.

-Don't look so doubtful!

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-Look in there.

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-What do you think that is?

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-What do you think that is?

-

-An old shed of some kind?

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-Close.

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-It's an Iron Age hut.

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-You've heard

-of "Teulu Bach Nantoer"?

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-Well, a little family lived there

-in the Iron Age.

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-There were lots of these round here.

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-This has survived completely,

-even its roof.

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-Let's go inside.

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-It's dark!

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-It's dark!

-

-Is there enough room?

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-It's dark!

-

-Is there enough room?

-

-There's enough room for me!

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-They were small people.

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-There's just about room to stand up.

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-I need to lose weight!

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-It's warm in here.

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-There's no draught.

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-Good gracious!

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-Good gracious!

-

-Good?

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-Good gracious!

-

-Good?

-

-Very good.

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-I'd give it 10 out of 10 and a star!

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-Things are getting better!

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-This is the memorial to Dewi Emrys.

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-Dewi Emrys is very famous.

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-Everyone associates Pwll Deri

-with Dewi Emrys.

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-A wonderful spot.

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-What does it say?

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-There's a couplet

-from his famous poem "Pwll Deri".

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-"And such thoughts come to you

-When you sit above Pwll Deri."

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-Beautiful!

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-Beautiful!

-

-You can come here

-to gather your thoughts.

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-It's a lovely place.

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-It's a lovely place.

-

-And the weather's still fine.

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-We're on the Coastal Path

-for the first time.

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-You're right. This part is pretty.

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-Before the Coastal Path existed, the

-family had a boat in Porthsychan.

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-When this path was built,

-we had to move it.

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-We used to leave it there overnight

-with the oars in it.

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-And no-one stole it?

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-And no-one stole it?

-

-No, but those days are long gone.

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-Times change.

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-You have to have moorings now.

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-People used to leave

-their doors unlocked.

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-People used to leave

-their doors unlocked.

-

-That's right.

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-Look at this tree on the left.

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-Look at this tree on the left.

-

-It's bent to one side.

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-The wind shapes them.

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-The wind shapes them.

-

-That's how bushes are in Pen Caer.

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-There aren't many trees,

-but they're all like that.

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-The wind blows them

-but they refuse to yield.

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-A certain hardiness.

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-They say the roots grow stronger

-on one side.

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-To fight back against the wind?

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-To fight back against the wind?

-

-Yes, against the wind.

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-Can we see our journey's end?

0:15:410:15:43

-Can we see our journey's end?

-

-Aber Mawr, yes.

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-In the distance.

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-In the distance.

-

-We've got a fair distance to walk.

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-What do you call stiles? "Stigle"?

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-No, my father would say "sticyll"

-and I'd say "gamfa".

0:15:520:15:57

-There's a bench here -

-Iron Age, no doubt!

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-No, it's made from wood!

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-Are you sure

-it isn't the Devil's bench?!

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-Are you sure

-it isn't the Devil's bench?!

-

-You watch yourself!

0:16:090:16:10

-From here you can see lots of caves.

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-You can see everything.

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-You can see everything.

-

-Pwll Deri, and the shadow

-of one hill on another.

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-It's beautiful.

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-It's easy to see how such a view

-can inspire a painter or a poet.

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-But I still don't know how someone

-sets about writing good poetry.

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-What do you mean by that?

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-I'm convinced that everyone in the

-world, at some time or another...

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-..has composed lines

-which are poetry.

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-Not everyone wins the Chair.

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-No...

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-No...

-

-Only one woman has ever won

-the National Eisteddfod Chair.

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-So they say,

-for writing in strict metre.

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-I don't know.

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-There's a certain craft

-to writing in strict metre.

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-There are skills to learn,

-and anyone can learn them.

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-There's a set of patterns

-that you learn.

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-You need a good teacher.

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-You need a good teacher.

-

-But if that's true...

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-..anyone could do it.

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-You need something special.

0:17:220:17:24

-These questions are difficult.

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-At times, something strikes you

-and you feel you want to say it.

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-I think you're the last person

-to judge your own work.

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-I think it's rare

-for someone to write something...

0:17:410:17:45

-..and be completely happy with it.

0:17:450:17:48

-If it pleases someone else, great.

0:17:480:17:51

-If it's given you pleasure,

-even better.

0:17:510:17:54

-When you write something...

0:17:560:17:58

-..do you know in your heart

-that it's quite good?

0:17:580:18:02

-Without being big-headed.

0:18:030:18:05

-You obviously

-don't know me at all, Iolo!

0:18:050:18:09

-Nothing's ever good enough.

0:18:090:18:11

-Sometimes I think,

-"Right, I'm satisfied with that."

0:18:110:18:15

-But in my case,

-that happens very rarely.

0:18:160:18:19

-Perhaps that will improve with time.

0:18:200:18:22

-I'll become more satisfied.

0:18:220:18:24

-I've so much to learn.

0:18:240:18:27

-What about winning the Chair

-at the National Eisteddfod?

0:18:270:18:30

-It must have been

-an incredible feeling...

0:18:300:18:33

-..to stand up in front of everyone.

0:18:330:18:34

-..to stand up in front of everyone.

-

-Yes, it was very exciting.

0:18:340:18:36

-I've repeated this story

-hundreds of times.

0:18:370:18:40

-As I got up, my husband whispered...

0:18:400:18:43

-.."If someone else stands up,

-you sit down!"

0:18:430:18:46

-We couldn't believe it was true!

0:18:470:18:49

-It was a wonderful day

-and I'll never forget it.

0:18:490:18:53

-It was a real thrill.

0:18:530:18:55

-That gave me a lot of pleasure.

0:18:550:18:58

-But I was still worried that the

-adjudication would be critical.

0:18:580:19:03

-But it wasn't.

0:19:040:19:05

-No, it was alright.

-They were very good adjudicators!

0:19:050:19:09

-Where do you keep the Chair?

0:19:100:19:12

-It takes pride of place

-in the corner of the lounge.

0:19:130:19:18

-I polish it now and again!

0:19:180:19:20

-It's a nice Chair.

0:19:210:19:22

-We've walked

-through some lovely landscapes.

0:19:230:19:26

-Have you been struck by inspiration?

0:19:270:19:30

-Are you angling for an englyn?

0:19:300:19:32

-Are you angling for an englyn?

-

-Yes, I am!

0:19:320:19:34

-Do you have one for me?

0:19:340:19:37

-I'm not sure you deserve an englyn.

0:19:370:19:40

-You've been so rude

-about the things I've showed you!

0:19:400:19:44

-"For two days, with Iolo, I trod

-old paths from cwtsh to cwtsh,

0:19:440:19:50

-"And the secret countryside

-Became for us a new legend."

0:19:500:19:53

-"And the secret countryside

-Became for us a new legend."

-

-That's superb.

0:19:530:19:55

-Have you had an englyn

-on this programme before?

0:19:550:19:56

-Have you had an englyn

-on this programme before?

-

-You're right, I don't deserve it!

0:19:560:19:59

-That's superb. Well done.

0:19:590:20:01

-Here we are at Aber Mawr,

-our journey's end.

0:20:090:20:13

-We call it Aber Mowr.

0:20:130:20:15

-This is where William Lewis came

-to write hymns.

0:20:160:20:20

-'Cof Am Y Cyfiawn Iesu' and so on.

0:20:200:20:22

-'Cof Am Y Cyfiawn Iesu' and so on.

-

-Someone else

-who was inspired by this area!

0:20:220:20:25

-I used to go to Aber Bach,

-round the corner.

0:20:250:20:29

-We had a boat called Glas y Dorlan.

0:20:290:20:32

-What a beautiful name.

0:20:320:20:34

-This is a great place.

0:20:350:20:37

-This is a great place.

-

-It's lovely.

0:20:370:20:38

-I love hearing the waves

-dragging the pebbles out to sea.

0:20:380:20:42

-It's lovely.

0:20:420:20:43

-It's lovely.

-

-There's something about the sea.

0:20:430:20:45

-You can just sit and look at it.

0:20:460:20:49

-Feeling free.

0:20:510:20:52

-We've been so lucky

-with the weather.

0:20:530:20:55

-Yes, we have.

0:20:560:20:56

-Yes, we have.

-

-It's so fine.

0:20:560:20:57

-We're sitting here, and this

-is a quiet, peaceful place.

0:20:580:21:02

-But back in the 19th century,

-about 1840...

0:21:050:21:09

-..Isambard Kingdom Brunel came here.

0:21:090:21:13

-There are remains of his tunnels

-in the hills over there.

0:21:130:21:18

-He wanted to bring a railway here.

0:21:190:21:22

-Imagine if that had happened.

0:21:240:21:26

-This would be a port.

0:21:260:21:27

-This would be a port.

-

-Like Liverpool.

0:21:270:21:29

-This would be a port.

-

-Like Liverpool.

-

-Or Fishguard.

0:21:290:21:30

-It would be even busier.

0:21:300:21:32

-They'd hoped that ships

-could sail to America from here.

0:21:330:21:37

-That's incredible.

0:21:380:21:39

-I'm so glad

-that plan didn't work out.

0:21:400:21:44

-We spoke earlier

-about the beauty of place names.

0:21:440:21:48

-Aber Mawr, the names of the hills,

-all kinds of things.

0:21:490:21:54

-They're fantastic.

0:21:540:21:55

-Rachel Philipps James wrote

-a great poem, 'Enwau Pencaer'.

0:21:560:22:00

-The poem lists

-all these place names.

0:22:000:22:04

-It sounds so pretty.

0:22:040:22:06

-Visitors who come here just for a

-day or so miss out on such things.

0:22:070:22:13

-They see the amazing views

-but they don't hear the names.

0:22:130:22:17

-They don't look for the names.

0:22:180:22:20

-That's true of most of us.

0:22:200:22:23

-We don't see things

-because we don't look for them.

0:22:230:22:26

-Like 'Lliged Corgi'!

0:22:260:22:28

-You need imagination to call

-a smallholding 'Corgi's Eyes'!

0:22:280:22:33

-Every name tells a story.

0:22:330:22:35

-"Llanwnda, Llanfenws,

-Pwllcrochan,

0:22:360:22:40

-"Pwllddawnau, Ty-llwyd,

-Pwll Deri,

0:22:400:22:43

-"Ty Capel, Garnfolch

-and Porth Ddwgan,

0:22:440:22:47

-"Rhydyfferem and Lliged Corgi.

0:22:470:22:50

-"Gofercei, Llanrhidian, Tremarchog,

0:22:520:22:53

-"Trenewy, Panteurig, Dolgar.

0:22:540:22:57

-"Garn Fowr, Pantybeudy, Trefeyog,

0:22:570:23:01

-"And all of these places

-are in Pen Caer."

0:23:020:23:06

-S4C subtitles by

-TROSOL Cyf.

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0:23:280:23:29

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