Castell Newydd Emlyn Cynefin


Castell Newydd Emlyn

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-Wales is known the world over

-for its magnificent scenery...

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-..but its history

-goes back centuries.

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-This tradition

-goes back thousands of years.

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-How hard can it be?

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-History, ghost stories and legends

-are steeped in these stones.

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-In this programme,

-we're in the Newcastle Emlyn area.

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-Carmarthenshire, Ceredigion

-and Pembrokeshire all meet up here.

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-The River Teifi

-snakes between them...

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-..sometimes a border...

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-..and sometimes linking the crafts

-and traditions that define us.

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-I've wanted to come here for years,

-and I can't believe I'm here.

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-It's a special part of Wales...

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-..of rolling hills and wide valleys

-in every direction.

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-Castles, wars,

-fiery dragons and bloody battles.

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-They're all part

-of the unique Emlyn district.

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-That's alongside living traditions,

-a revival of local crafts...

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-..and one eye always on the future.

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-This is our habitat.

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-The main town is Newcastle Emlyn...

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-..although the castle

-isn't all that new.

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-It was built about 800 years ago...

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-..to replace the old one,

-a few miles downriver.

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-The castle, and the river,

-of course, are still here.

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-We're on the northern side

-of Newcastle Emlyn.

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-The River Teifi is there,

-and we're in a different county.

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-I grew up here in Adpar as a child,

-in Cardiganshire, now Ceredigion.

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-So, this side

-is the village of Adpar?

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-It's Adpar now, but many years ago,

-it was called Trefhedyn.

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-There were two pubs here,

-a corner shop, everything.

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-I even went to primary school here.

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-Although you lived here,

-in a different county...

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-..did you still consider yourself

-to be Newcastle Emlyn people?

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-Definitely, and if we went away

-and were asked where we were from...

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-..we'd always say Adpar

-in Newcastle Emlyn.

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-It was

-an important part of the town.

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-We're Adpartonians,

-a special breed.

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-Special!

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-We're by the river now.

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-It's like an artery for the area.

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-Yes, definitely.

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-It flows down from the Teifi Pools,

-up near Tregaron...

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-..and powers several mills en route.

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-Woollen mills, and some

-that generated electricity...

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-..like the one in town years ago.

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-Back in the 1800s,

-the Cawdor estate this side...

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-..and the Fitzwilliam estate

-on the other worked together...

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-..to run water to the mills...

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-..but also to maintain

-an open flow for salmon.

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-Salmon fishing

-was important at that time.

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-As children,

-we crossed from Adpar there.

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-There was a wooden footbridge

-which is sadly no longer there.

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-We'd cross the bridge

-to that island there.

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-When we were naughty,

-we'd cross these falls...

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-..over to Carmarthenshire,

-to the castle.

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-It was a big adventure,

-many happy childhood memories.

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-How would you describe the town?

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-How would you describe the town?

-

-Newcastle Emlyn is a unique town.

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-The market's been important

-for years, and remains so.

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-The market in town, attracting

-the surrounding rural communities...

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-..to sell livestock.

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-Capel Iwan, Talgarreg,

-Beulah, Ffostrasol...

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-..feed the town with Welshness.

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-It's nice to see

-local young people...

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-..setting up new businesses

-and promoting the language here.

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-It's very nice to see.

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-So, a traditional rural area

-with a seemingly quiet market town.

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-But the Emlyn district

-does harbour darker stories...

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-..from medieval times

-to the present day.

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-I'm walking through Adpar,

-with Newcastle Emlyn behind me.

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-This part of the village

-has an unusual name...

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-..which ties in

-with several bloody tales.

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-I'm making my way to Bryndioddef -

-the hill of suffering.

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-During the Civil War,

-Cromwell's men...

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-..killed every local soldier

-after blowing up the castle.

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-Apparently, he executed some of them

-and their heads rolled downhill...

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-..and that's how Bryndioddef

-got its name.

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-Some bloody tales

-belong to distant history...

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-..but there are also

-more recent chilling events.

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-It doesn't look much, I know...

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-..but I'm standing

-on something very unexpected.

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-A nuclear bunker.

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-I'm going to do something

-not many get the chance to do.

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-From the 1950s to the early '90s,

-throughout the Cold War...

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-..there were similar bunkers

-all over the UK...

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-..to gauge the effects of a nuclear

-bomb should one strike nearby.

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-It's a good job

-I'm not scared of spiders.

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-There's a lot of water down here.

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-Volunteers were trained to measure

-a nuclear bomb's side effects...

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-..from this room,

-15 feet underground...

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-..with a concrete floor,

-walls and roof...

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-..between seven inches

-and a foot thick.

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-This is when they expected the end

-of the world, 23 minutes to three.

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-I don't want to spend another minute

-here, let alone having to work here.

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-Horrible.

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-Such places haven't been closed

-for all that long.

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-This is what they looked like

-underground.

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-A ladder to climb down,

-a bunk to sleep two persons...

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-..and monitoring equipment.

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-We're only talking

-about the 1980s and 1990s here.

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-Very recent history.

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-We can only hope that we'll never

-have to use such places again.

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-The Teifi is one

-of Wales' prettiest rivers...

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-..from its source

-in the Cambrian Mountains...

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-..to the dolphins

-in its estuary on Cardigan Bay.

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-It also runs the length

-of the Emlyn district...

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-..and draws the area together.

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-But even on this short stretch

-of river, stories abound.

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-One man knows this stretch of the

-river like the back of his hand.

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-He's also familiar

-with the river's characters...

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-..including a local man

-who was quite a fisherman...

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-..and also something of a poet.

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-William Griffiths' bardic name

-was Gwilym Gloff Glan Teifi.

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-He wrote articles and poems...

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-..for a magazine

-called Seren Gomer...

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-..back in the 1800s.

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-Someone showed me a poem of his

-and it wasn't that great.

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-He should have stuck to fishing,

-I'm telling you.

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-This is where he caught salmon.

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-This is where he caught salmon.

-

-He had the rights to this stretch.

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-He was one of the last

-with rights to use a spoon net.

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-He'd cast it into this pool

-to catch large fish.

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-Someone had carved a niche

-in the rock where he could stand...

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-..and it's still visible now.

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-Fishermen from the past

-have left us more than that...

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-..including names for pools

-that are steeped in history.

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-What's this place called?

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-What's this place called?

-

-Pwll Defaid - sheep pool.

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-This is where

-they used to dip sheep.

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-Local farmers

-bought their sheep here...

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-..to dip them, to wash the wool.

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-The sheep were driven

-over the bridge to this point.

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-It's called Flat Rock today,

-but it was Pwll Defaid years ago.

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-They washed the sheep here.

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-The flock was driven around

-three times.

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-The sheep had to swim

-from this side to the far side.

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-This photo shows everything.

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-This photo shows everything.

-

-There are boats in the water here.

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-They're coracles,

-one is my Uncle Wil's.

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-That's either Jac or John Trevor.

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-John Trevor used to dip sheep,

-but he gave it up.

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-A sheep jumped into his coracle...

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-..and it went a bit topsy-turvy!

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-..and it went a bit topsy-turvy!

-

-A fight broke out!

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-I was dipping a flock one day

-when a sheep got into trouble.

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-I got her to the bank down there,

-but she was on her last legs.

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-I was rubbing her,

-applying pressure and so on.

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-Massage?

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-Massage?

-

-That's right.

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-Wil came over and said,

-"Why are you doing that?

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-"Today's method is mouth-to-mouth!"

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-Then I had to listen to him...

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-BLOWING SOUND

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-..blowing into the sheep's mouth.

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-He was such a blaggard,

-I couldn't raise any doubts.

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-But there we go, these things pass.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

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-Esgair, Bargoed and Bran streams...

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-..converge here at Drefach Felindre.

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-They once powered 24 woollen mills

-in this village alone.

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-This skilled art

-is still practised at Melin Teifi.

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-It was once one of Wales'

-most important industries.

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-I started here with a summer job

-while I was at college.

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-The manager at the time, Mr Willden,

-asked if I'd like to stay on.

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-In the meantime,

-I had met Diane, my wife upstairs.

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-You keep her upstairs!

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-You keep her upstairs!

-

-Yes, upstairs.

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-We both worked together

-for many years here...

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-..until it closed in 1980.

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-I then asked Brian,

-who worked here at the time...

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-..he's my foreman here now...

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-..if he'd like to carry on,

-and we tried to open up ourselves.

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-There were so many woollen mills

-in this one village.

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-That's right.

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-What is it about the area

-that created so much industry?

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-Three streams

-run through the village.

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-They're important because you needed

-power to drive the machinery.

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-A few started

-and others then followed suit.

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-The same water, the same river,

-could turn several wheels.

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-The industry fell into decline

-in the 1980s. Why was that?

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-In my opinion, duvets came in

-and blankets weren't necessary.

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-They became very popular,

-and cost became a concern.

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-It's turned around now...

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-..and demand for traditional

-Welsh blankets is back.

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-There's plenty of work about now.

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-To be honest, this factory

-could be twice the size.

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-But I'm getting on now, and I don't

-need to work any harder than I do.

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-While the weaver creates

-traditional Welsh patterns...

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-..sewing and dispatching orders

-across the globe goes on upstairs.

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-I'm sewing shirts.

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-A lot of people buy them

-because it's our special pattern.

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-Americans often,

-and this one's going to Germany.

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-What's Raymond like as a boss?

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-What's Raymond like as a boss?

-

-He's alright.

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-I'm up here and he's down there.

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-What's this here?

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-That was my wage packet

-when I started here, 53 years ago.

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-3, 18 shillings and eightpence.

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-I don't get much more now!

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-This is the wide loom,

-used to make blankets and quilts.

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-We're looking at the programme...

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-..that tells the weaver

-what the loom is doing.

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-Every pulley raises a harness,

-and heads cross between them.

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-There's a small chain there.

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-That tells the weaver at any time

-what colour is being woven in.

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-That's how you get the pattern.

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-Do they still make looms?

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-Do they still make looms?

-

-No, they're not made any more.

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-They stopped for good in 1967,

-and you can't get spare parts now.

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-All we have is what we've collected

-down the years...

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-..or what you can steal

-off another weaver!

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-Weaving and coracles aren't

-the only rural crafts around here.

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-The process is the same

-as when my mother did it.

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-Of course, she did it

-on a small scale.

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-But the process is all done by hand,

-and it's nice that it continues...

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-..without any modern machinery.

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-Mam made Caerphilly cheese,

-more than anything.

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-But she never sold any,

-because we only had two cows.

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-The main reason we started Caws

-Cenarth was because of milk quotas.

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-Some farmers were pouring milk

-into the gutter.

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-But I'd been raised

-too close to Ceredigion to do that!

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-It's nice because you can

-forget about everything else.

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-You're completely focused

-on making the cheese.

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-I think I'm still learning,

-even after 30 years.

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-It's a fairly complicated process.

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-But it's nice

-to continue the old ways.

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-If you gave six people

-the same recipe...

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-..the cheese they made

-would turn out totally different.

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-Whoever makes the cheese

-puts a piece of themselves into it.

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-I firmly believe that the best thing

-you can add to cheese is love.

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-Cenarth Falls are among

-the most popular falls in Wales...

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-..to be painted or photographed,

-and you can see why.

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-It's also home

-to the National Coracle Centre.

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-It keeps alive a tradition that

-goes back maybe thousands of years.

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-The annual river festival

-is built on this tradition.

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-But in order to take part,

-I need to know a bit more.

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-This is a Teifi coracle.

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-They have different shapes

-on different rivers.

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-My great-grandfather

-apparently made them...

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-..and fished on the River Neath,

-a long time ago.

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-Would they be a different shape?

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-Would they be a different shape?

-

-Yes, every river was different.

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-But that was before my time!

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-Long before your time.

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-You're a young man

-to be in a coracle.

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-I grew up with them.

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-My father had one.

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-And you're continuing the tradition.

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-And you're continuing the tradition.

-

-Yes, I have my own licence.

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-So, I go out myself now.

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-How were these made traditionally?

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-Cow hide, initially.

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-Cow hide, initially.

-

-Cow hide?

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-It's like a basket, in a way.

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-What's the wood?

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-What's the wood?

-

-It's willow, soaked for a year.

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-That makes it pliable enough

-to weave into a basket.

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-That's covered with canvas

-and painted with bitumen.

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-And that keeps the water out.

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-And that keeps the water out.

-

-Or it should.

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-Yes, it should be waterproof.

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-But a coracle

-is useless on dry land.

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-As the competitors are arriving...

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-..and as I've agreed to race,

-I need a lesson.

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-One foot in one corner,

-one foot in the other corner.

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-Sit in the middle

-or you'll tip over.

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-I don't want to tip over.

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-And you're away.

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-And I just rotate the paddle.

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-Can I turn around?

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-Turning's easy.

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-What isn't easy is going forwards.

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-Keep rotating the paddle.

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-You have to turn the blade as well.

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-Now, you're moving.

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-I am moving, but it's difficult.

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-I am moving, but it's difficult.

-

-Come towards me.

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-There we are.

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-Oh, I see.

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-You've got it.

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-How do you think I'll do

-in the race this afternoon?

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-Do you have any words of advice?

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-You'll do alright, I think.

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-The river's flowing fairly quickly,

-so that will help you out.

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-It'll help me, then.

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-It'll help me, then.

-

-Yes, but I don't think you'll win.

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-I don't expect to win, I just want

-to stop before reaching Cardigan!

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-Stop in Cenarth and you'll be fine.

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-Five miles upriver from Cenarth

-is Llandyfriog church.

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-Settling an argument with a sword

-or gun was once fairly common.

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-There are records of at least

-a thousand such duels in Britain.

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-The remains of one losing duellist

-lie in this churchyard.

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-Thomas Heslop

-was from the West Indies.

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-In 1814, he became the last man

-to die in a duel in Wales.

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-The row was between Heslop

-and local solicitor John Beynon.

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-After a day's hunting...

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-..and a few pints

-at the Old Salutation in Adpar...

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-..things went from bad to worse.

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-Two days later, on 10 September,

-the pair met in this field.

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-They should have taken ten paces

-before turning and firing...

0:21:340:21:38

-..but John Beynon

-only took five paces.

0:21:390:21:42

-He turned, fired his gun

-and Thomas Heslop died instantly.

0:21:430:21:48

-That was the last duel

-to take place in Wales.

0:21:490:21:52

-John Beynon got away with a fine,

-but he was no longer welcome here.

0:21:540:21:58

-He fled to America and disappeared.

0:21:590:22:02

-But local people

-still remember Thomas Heslop.

0:22:030:22:07

-The winners don't always

-write the history books.

0:22:070:22:10

-Most of us have probably slept

-under a traditional Welsh quilt...

0:22:170:22:22

-..without truly considering the work

-it takes to weave such patterns...

0:22:230:22:28

-..or that the patterns have been

-handed down through the generations.

0:22:280:22:33

-Melin Teifi

-sells traditional clothes...

0:22:340:22:38

-..and patterns

-like Caernarfon and Dyffryn...

0:22:380:22:42

-..next door to the workshop,

-a living exhibit of an industry...

0:22:430:22:48

-..that has shaped this area

-for centuries.

0:22:480:22:51

-These machines are so big...

0:22:510:22:54

-..yet they turn out

-such detailed patterns.

0:22:550:22:58

-Every head that comes through

-from the ladder at the back...

0:22:580:23:03

-..runs through an eyelet

-that moves up and down...

0:23:030:23:07

-..and through those slots here.

0:23:070:23:10

-They control

-the width of the fabric.

0:23:100:23:13

-I think there are four in each

-of those, and six of those per inch.

0:23:130:23:19

-That's 24 threads per inch

-across from here to there.

0:23:190:23:24

-It's so detailed.

0:23:240:23:25

-It's so detailed.

-

-Yes, it is.

0:23:250:23:27

-When you see the completed fabric...

0:23:270:23:30

-..you appreciate them so much more.

0:23:310:23:34

-How long have you

-been doing this, Ken?

0:23:410:23:44

-Oh, it's about 50 years, 1956.

0:23:440:23:48

-I saw you working on this,

-the Caernarfon pattern.

0:23:480:23:52

-Is it still as popular as ever?

0:23:520:23:54

-Is it still as popular as ever?

-

-Yes, it is.

0:23:540:23:55

-It's hard to believe

-it's still going.

0:23:550:23:58

-I'm fed up of looking at it!

0:23:580:24:00

-But, clearly, not everyone is.

0:24:010:24:04

-How do you measure it?

0:24:050:24:06

-You have to know exactly

-where one ends and one begins.

0:24:060:24:10

-What I do is insert this...

0:24:110:24:13

-..and keep going

-until I get to the end.

0:24:140:24:17

-This mark here means

-that a single quilt has been done.

0:24:170:24:21

-When it gets to here,

-I have a double quilt.

0:24:220:24:26

-Then you turn the fringe

-and start again.

0:24:270:24:31

-You'd better get back to work.

0:24:310:24:33

-You'd better get back to work.

-

-Yes, probably.

0:24:330:24:35

-You carry on

-and I'll measure for you.

0:24:350:24:37

-Hold onto it tightly!

0:24:380:24:39

-Watching you at work,

-I can see how satisfying it is...

0:24:490:24:53

-..for you to be making a living

-from something that you love doing.

0:24:530:24:58

-That's true enough.

0:24:580:24:59

-We have been through

-a difficult period...

0:25:000:25:04

-..but things have picked up.

0:25:040:25:06

-Demand is high

-for traditional products.

0:25:060:25:10

-They're back in fashion,

-without a doubt.

0:25:100:25:13

-The orders we have coming in...

0:25:130:25:17

-..prove that there's enough work

-to be going on with.

0:25:180:25:21

-I hope that continues.

0:25:210:25:23

-At its peak, the woollen industry

-was driven by the power of water.

0:25:320:25:36

-That's celebrated

-on a short stretch of the Teifi...

0:25:370:25:40

-..in Cenarth annually.

0:25:400:25:42

-The Cenarth River Festival

-has activities for the whole family.

0:25:460:25:51

-But there's one main attraction,

-and I'm proud to be taking part.

0:25:510:25:56

-It's a river festival...

0:26:080:26:10

-..and as such, the activities

-are focused on the river.

0:26:100:26:14

-There are coracles every year,

-kayaks have since come in.

0:26:140:26:18

-They come here because we want

-to do things on the river.

0:26:180:26:23

-There are a lot of tourists here.

0:26:230:26:25

-I suppose some come

-especially to see the coracles.

0:26:260:26:29

-A lot of people do come for that,

-some for the whole weekend.

0:26:290:26:34

-The river

-is the focus of the festival.

0:26:350:26:39

-As the crowds gathered on the banks,

-I had just one thing on my mind.

0:26:550:27:01

-The great coracle race.

0:27:010:27:03

-Would I remember anything

-from my lesson with Matthew?

0:27:040:27:08

-Get in and get comfortable.

0:27:080:27:10

-I'm fine now.

0:27:110:27:12

-I'm fine now.

-

-Happy?

0:27:120:27:13

-Well, the race is over

-and I'm still alive.

0:27:460:27:50

-That's the main thing,

-for me and my family!

0:27:500:27:53

-The water was moving quickly,

-or it seemed to from here.

0:27:530:27:58

-But once I got in the boat

-and went out into midstream...

0:27:580:28:02

-..where I thought

-I'd be carried along quickly...

0:28:020:28:05

-..it hardly moved at all.

0:28:050:28:08

-The experienced coraclers

-sped along...

0:28:080:28:11

-..while I was still

-under the bridge like a fool!

0:28:110:28:15

-But the crowd was very supportive.

0:28:150:28:19

-It wasn't too bad,

-and you only learn from experience.

0:28:200:28:23

-.

0:28:280:28:28

-Subtitles

0:28:330:28:33

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:28:330:28:35

-A stone's throw

-from Newcastle Emlyn is Henllan...

0:28:410:28:45

-..one of the prettiest areas

-along the Teifi.

0:28:450:28:48

-But as you can imagine, the scenery

-doesn't tell the whole story.

0:28:490:28:53

-I'll take you back to a time

-when this area, like many others...

0:28:530:28:57

-..was under the shadow of war.

0:28:580:29:00

-Between 1940 and 1941...

0:29:050:29:08

-..a camp was built

-south of Henllan...

0:29:080:29:12

-..to hold the growing numbers

-of prisoners of war...

0:29:120:29:16

-..flowing into Britain.

0:29:160:29:18

-Suddenly,

-this area was full of foreign men...

0:29:190:29:23

-..and some left their mark

-in more ways than one.

0:29:230:29:27

-Welcome to Camp 70, Heledd.

0:29:310:29:34

-Imagine this place

-with no trees and no buildings...

0:29:340:29:38

-..just 18 acres of level ground.

0:29:390:29:42

-They built a prison camp here...

0:29:420:29:46

-..to house Italian POWs

-from the Sahara, Tunisia and Libya.

0:29:460:29:52

-Over 1,000 were held prisoner here.

0:29:520:29:55

-Here in Henllan?

0:29:550:29:56

-Here in Henllan?

-

-Yes, for four and a half years.

0:29:560:29:58

-Why here?

0:29:580:29:59

-Why here?

-

-It was far from the English Channel.

0:29:590:30:02

-More food had to be grown

-during the war...

0:30:020:30:06

-..so, they were sent out

-to work on farms every day.

0:30:060:30:11

-I'm trying to imagine the place

-as it was so many years ago.

0:30:160:30:21

-The sounds, what was here and so on.

0:30:210:30:24

-The brick and concrete buildings

-are still here...

0:30:250:30:28

-..but there were also 34 cabins

-in which the Italians lived.

0:30:280:30:32

-This is a drawing

-of how it would have looked.

0:30:330:30:37

-The theatre, the refectory...

0:30:370:30:40

-..and the cabins

-where the Italians lived.

0:30:400:30:44

-They provided enough activities

-to keep the Italians entertained.

0:30:440:30:48

-There was a swing band,

-a la Glenn Miller.

0:30:480:30:51

-There were four football teams,

-they played tennis and bowls.

0:30:520:30:57

-So, they were treated well.

0:30:570:30:59

-The term prisoner of war camp

-conjures up a certain image.

0:30:590:31:03

-But this feels rather different.

0:31:040:31:06

-Because they'd got rid

-of the Fascists...

0:31:060:31:09

-..and royalist Italians had produced

-weapons to fight the Italians...

0:31:090:31:13

-..it was the moderate Italians

-who remained...

0:31:140:31:16

-..and they were very easy to handle.

0:31:170:31:19

-Were they allowed out?

0:31:190:31:21

-Were they allowed out?

-

-Yes, some worked on local farms.

0:31:210:31:24

-When they went out for the day...

0:31:240:31:26

-..they were given Welsh cakes, bara

-brith or apple tarts here and there.

0:31:260:31:31

-They had no money at the camp.

0:31:310:31:33

-They used paper tokens.

0:31:340:31:36

-They couldn't pay

-for the cakes directly.

0:31:360:31:40

-At night, after lights out,

-they created little craft items.

0:31:410:31:45

-This box is interesting.

0:31:460:31:48

-Inside, unexpectedly,

-is a bottle of wine.

0:31:480:31:53

-Would you like to remove the top?

0:31:530:31:55

-It won't hurt you. What is it?

0:31:560:31:57

-Oh, a lighter.

0:31:580:32:00

-They took a bullet,

-found a lighter somewhere...

0:32:010:32:06

-..put the lighter into the cavity...

0:32:060:32:09

-..then they've made a bottle

-as a gift for some farmer's wife.

0:32:090:32:13

-Does it work?

0:32:130:32:14

-Does it work?

-

-Yes, of course.

0:32:140:32:16

-There's something else in the box.

0:32:160:32:20

-I have a ring for you here.

0:32:200:32:22

-If you'll excuse me,

-we're about to get engaged.

0:32:230:32:26

-This ring was made

-from an old threepenny bit.

0:32:280:32:31

-They gave them to people

-as a thank you.

0:32:310:32:34

-If you'd take it off...

0:32:350:32:36

-If you'd take it off...

-

-I don't want to!

0:32:360:32:37

-I've got another ring

-which is even better.

0:32:370:32:40

-This was made out of a spoon.

0:32:400:32:43

-It's incredible

-that they could do such a thing.

0:32:430:32:46

-This was their way

-of saying thank you for a kindness.

0:32:460:32:50

-All made here.

0:32:510:32:52

-The Italians may have been POWs...

0:32:550:32:57

-..but their story

-is one of integration...

0:32:580:33:01

-..and engaging

-with their new neighbours.

0:33:020:33:05

-But it wasn't always so.

0:33:050:33:06

-Some local people weren't quite

-as peaceful in the past.

0:33:070:33:11

-I'm on the trail of Newcastle

-Emlyn's bloody history...

0:33:120:33:16

-..in the castle

-that gives the town its name.

0:33:160:33:20

-It stands proudly behind me,

-or it did...

0:33:200:33:23

-..with the Teifi that way

-and Adpar to the north.

0:33:240:33:27

-The castle dates back to 1240.

0:33:280:33:31

-It's one of the few Welsh castles

-locally, built by Maredudd ap Rhys.

0:33:310:33:35

-He was a bit fickle,

-truth be told...

0:33:360:33:39

-..loyal to both Wales and England

-at different times.

0:33:390:33:43

-Or should that be disloyal?

0:33:440:33:46

-In 1271, his son, Rhys,

-succeeded him.

0:33:470:33:50

-Unlike his father, Rhys

-remained true to the English cause.

0:33:500:33:55

-Once the war ended,

-he was rewarded by the king.

0:33:550:33:59

-He was made a knight

-and received lands in Ystrad Tywi.

0:34:010:34:04

-But once you get a taste of power,

-you want more.

0:34:040:34:08

-The Lord Rhys changed his tune

-and began to fight against England.

0:34:080:34:13

-His rebellion came in 1287.

0:34:140:34:16

-In June, he seized Llandovery,

-Dinefwr and Carreg Cennen castles.

0:34:160:34:21

-He set fire to Swansea,

-Carmarthen and Llanbadarn Fawr.

0:34:210:34:26

-At the centre of the fighting

-was this castle.

0:34:260:34:29

-The English seized it first,

-then the Welsh took back control.

0:34:310:34:36

-Eventually, Edward I's might

-rained down and laid siege to it.

0:34:360:34:40

-The defenders

-were left with no food or water...

0:34:410:34:44

-..nowhere to turn

-and no-one to save them.

0:34:440:34:47

-The soldiers

-couldn't come or go for a month.

0:34:470:34:50

-But somehow, the Lord Rhys

-escaped from the King's clutches...

0:34:500:34:55

-..and fled to Ireland.

0:34:550:34:56

-He came back, ready for more,

-four years later.

0:34:570:35:00

-But by then, it was too late.

0:35:010:35:03

-His cause was lost

-and his men had lost faith.

0:35:040:35:07

-He was imprisoned

-and killed in York.

0:35:070:35:10

-He was hung first, then dragged

-by wild horses just to make sure.

0:35:100:35:14

-Lovely.

0:35:150:35:16

-The river may bind the area,

-but there's much more to it.

0:35:240:35:28

-Water and fire come together here.

0:35:290:35:32

-This forge has been in the centre

-of the town for 25 years.

0:35:370:35:41

-I'm meeting the man who's determined

-to keep this tradition alive.

0:35:420:35:47

-I started out renting next door.

0:35:480:35:50

-This place was empty,

-there was nothing here.

0:35:510:35:55

-We're in an agricultural area.

0:35:550:35:57

-Every village around here

-would once have had a blacksmith.

0:35:580:36:02

-Yes, maybe even two.

0:36:030:36:05

-There was plenty of work,

-repairs and so on.

0:36:050:36:08

-Back then, everything was repaired.

0:36:090:36:11

-Now, it's a chuckaway society.

0:36:110:36:13

-I try to keep that tradition going.

0:36:140:36:16

-What would the old blacksmith do

-that you don't do?

0:36:170:36:22

-Horses.

0:36:220:36:23

-Shoeing horses, things like that.

0:36:230:36:26

-Today, that work has split off.

0:36:270:36:30

-You have smiths and farriers.

0:36:300:36:33

-Right.

0:36:330:36:34

-Right.

-

-In the old days, it was one job.

0:36:340:36:36

-But I like to keep the work going,

-and that's why I have a forge.

0:36:360:36:42

-The old blacksmith

-had the forge going all day.

0:36:420:36:46

-As someone who's never

-done this kind of work...

0:36:460:36:50

-..is there anything I could do

-to see how it goes?

0:36:500:36:53

-You could hit your finger.

0:36:540:36:55

-With a hammer?

0:36:560:36:57

-I've done that before.

0:36:570:36:58

-Weathervanes are popular

-in Barry's workshop.

0:37:000:37:04

-But as we're close to the Teifi...

0:37:040:37:06

-..he wants me

-to make a salmon weathervane.

0:37:060:37:10

-Place it on the metal

-and press this trigger...

0:37:100:37:14

-..then follow the line.

0:37:150:37:17

-Slowly does it.

0:37:170:37:19

-As you did when you traced the mark.

0:37:220:37:26

-Did you have whisky for breakfast?

0:37:310:37:33

-Alan can show you,

-then you can finish it off.

0:37:350:37:39

-Hopefully.

0:37:400:37:41

-Put the scrolls on

-and tack it at the top and bottom...

0:37:480:37:53

-..and at the bottom again.

0:37:530:37:55

-A bit closer.

0:37:560:37:57

-A bit closer.

-

-A bit closer? OK.

0:37:570:37:58

-Brilliant.

0:38:110:38:12

-A salmon weathervane.

0:38:130:38:14

-.

0:38:210:38:21

-Subtitles

0:38:260:38:26

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:38:260:38:28

-I'm realizing a dream by visiting

-the Catholic church in Henllan.

0:38:290:38:34

-It was built

-by Italian prisoners of war.

0:38:340:38:39

-It's the only church of its kind

-on the British mainland.

0:38:390:38:43

-Why do you have such a strong link

-with the church?

0:38:450:38:48

-I did a project on altars

-with the children at school.

0:38:490:38:52

-I visited five churches

-and this was one of them.

0:38:530:38:56

-I learnt that the artist

-was Mario Ferlito.

0:38:570:39:01

-The children wanted to write to him,

-and that's how it all began.

0:39:010:39:05

-These eleven-year-olds

-wrote to Mario.

0:39:050:39:09

-He read their letter

-and found out...

0:39:090:39:12

-..that his work was still here.

0:39:130:39:15

-According to his wife, he broke down

-and wept for 20 minutes.

0:39:150:39:19

-The relationship

-has lasted over the years...

0:39:200:39:23

-..through Mario, Maria

-and now their two daughters.

0:39:230:39:27

-We'll go in then.

0:39:270:39:29

-If you open that door...

0:39:330:39:35

-..we're in the Church

-of the Sacred Heart.

0:39:380:39:42

-Your eyes are drawn

-along these medallions...

0:39:420:39:47

-..towards the altar,

-and the mural of the Last Supper.

0:39:470:39:53

-And he painted all of these?

0:39:540:39:55

-And he painted all of these?

-

-Yes, just him.

0:39:550:39:57

-If you look at the fifth disciple

-from the left...

0:40:020:40:05

-..wearing mustard yellow clothes...

0:40:060:40:09

-..that paint was made from onions.

0:40:090:40:12

-No!

0:40:130:40:14

-Mario created all the colours...

0:40:140:40:17

-..out of what the men brought back

-after working on the farms.

0:40:190:40:23

-He didn't have any paint.

0:40:240:40:25

-There was no B&Q back then!

0:40:260:40:27

-He had to create the colours.

0:40:280:40:30

-Take the medallions.

0:40:300:40:31

-The brown was made

-from ground tea and coffee.

0:40:320:40:35

-He also boiled fish bones

-in the kitchen...

0:40:350:40:39

-..to make a glue.

0:40:400:40:41

-He used the glue

-to bind the paint to the walls.

0:40:420:40:46

-You're talking about vegetables,

-flowers, fruit, onions.

0:40:460:40:51

-That's what all these colours are.

0:40:510:40:54

-This is one of the candlesticks.

0:40:540:40:57

-A tin of vegetable oil, perhaps.

0:40:580:41:01

-At the top is the lid of the can,

-to hold the wax.

0:41:020:41:07

-All here since the 1940s.

0:41:080:41:10

-All here since the 1940s.

-

-Yes, still here.

0:41:100:41:11

-A series of pillars

-run down either side.

0:41:110:41:16

-The tops of the columns

-resemble Greek architecture.

0:41:160:41:20

-Schoolchildren collected these tins

-and brought them to Henllan...

0:41:210:41:26

-..and they were used

-to create these scrolls.

0:41:260:41:29

-Just ordinary tins,

-peas, baked beans, whatever.

0:41:300:41:33

-And local children

-gave these to the prisoners?

0:41:340:41:37

-There's an arched piece of wood

-on the top part of each window.

0:41:370:41:41

-It gives them the appearance

-of church windows.

0:41:420:41:46

-He hadn't had any formal artistic

-training, it was all instinctive.

0:41:460:41:52

-The commandant asked him

-if he'd like to paint the church.

0:41:520:41:56

-It was quite an honour,

-and it's still here today.

0:41:570:42:00

-Wherever you go around here,

-the world 'wiber' is evident.

0:42:100:42:14

-It was a type of flying dragon

-that once terrorized local people.

0:42:150:42:20

-The story starts in Newcastle Emlyn,

-Carmarthenshire...

0:42:230:42:27

-..and ends on the banks

-of the Teifi, in Ceredigion.

0:42:280:42:32

-It was the day of the summer fair,

-and the town was packed.

0:42:340:42:38

-Suddenly,

-a shadow came over the town.

0:42:380:42:41

-People looked up and saw this beast

-landing on the castle tower...

0:42:410:42:45

-..roaring and breathing fire

-and beating its wings...

0:42:450:42:49

-..and whatever else

-they used to do.

0:42:490:42:52

-The fair was over, and it would

-have been the end of the town...

0:42:530:42:57

-..were it not

-for one brave soldier...

0:42:570:43:00

-..who jumped into the river

-and stripped.

0:43:000:43:03

-Why the nudity's important, I don't

-know, but it's in all the stories.

0:43:030:43:08

-He took aim at the beast.

0:43:080:43:10

-The beast had thick skin,

-as hard as stone...

0:43:100:43:14

-..but there was one soft part,

-its navel.

0:43:150:43:18

-The bullet hit the beast,

-which roared and flapped its wings.

0:43:180:43:24

-Then it came down to the Teifi

-to die.

0:43:240:43:27

-It was impossible to drink the water

-or fish in the Teifi for days.

0:43:290:43:34

-The beast's blood and venom

-had contaminated the river.

0:43:340:43:38

-It's a wild tale,

-an imaginary tale most probably...

0:43:390:43:43

-..but in nearby Llandysul,

-there's a special laboratory.

0:43:430:43:47

-It's one of the world leaders

-in the manufacture of antivenom.

0:43:480:43:52

-It must be something in the water.

0:43:530:43:55

-Legends aren't the only things

-being kept alive in Newcastle Emlyn.

0:43:560:44:01

-The old tradition

-of forging decorative metal...

0:44:020:44:06

-..remains at the heart of the town.

0:44:070:44:09

-This is a 12 millimetre square bar.

0:44:090:44:13

-It's been twisted

-and it'll end up like this.

0:44:130:44:17

-This is the traditional part

-of a smith's work.

0:44:260:44:30

-This is the forge...

0:44:310:44:32

-..and this is how blacksmiths

-used to work all day.

0:44:320:44:35

-By the forge in the morning,

-and they didn't leave it all day.

0:44:360:44:41

-They used to melt the metal,

-bend the metal, make scrolls.

0:44:410:44:46

-How do you know

-that it's ready to be worked on?

0:44:480:44:52

-The colour, which is reddish.

0:44:520:44:56

-If you see sparks flying,

-it's too hot.

0:44:560:45:01

-The forging heat, as it's called.

0:45:010:45:04

-There's that saying,

-strike while the iron's hot.

0:45:070:45:10

-Clearly,

-this is where it comes from.

0:45:110:45:13

-It's over to you now.

0:45:170:45:18

-It's square, the shape's changed.

0:45:330:45:36

-I see.

0:45:380:45:39

-There we go, like that.

0:45:420:45:44

-Bend it down.

0:45:440:45:45

-I want it like this.

0:45:450:45:47

-I want it like this.

-

-Do I hit it like this?

0:45:470:45:48

-Hit that at the tip, slowly.

0:45:490:45:52

-Pretty good.

0:45:540:45:56

-No problem at all, very good.

0:45:570:46:00

-Great!

0:46:000:46:01

-What I find interesting, Barry...

0:46:060:46:09

-..even though you have

-all these machines here...

0:46:100:46:13

-..you carry on the old traditions

-with the forge and so on.

0:46:130:46:17

-It'd be a great shame

-if that died off.

0:46:170:46:20

-I get great pleasure

-working with the fire.

0:46:200:46:23

-A lot of people come in

-and they enjoy watching...

0:46:230:46:27

-..hearing the hammer

-strike the anvil...

0:46:280:46:32

-..and seeing the forge.

0:46:320:46:34

-As long as I'm alive, there'll be

-a forge in Newcastle Emlyn.

0:46:340:46:38

-There is a popular image of Wales

-that is, I must admit...

0:46:400:46:44

-..close to the impression

-I've had of this area.

0:46:450:46:48

-A bit out of the way, where time

-seems to have stood still.

0:46:490:46:53

-Where old industries and traditions

-still hold their own...

0:46:530:46:57

-..despite every attempt

-to sweep them off the map.

0:46:580:47:02

-But the more you scratch

-the surface, the more you see.

0:47:030:47:06

-Lost stories, and others

-that shatter the peaceful image.

0:47:060:47:11

-They prove that you can't

-take anywhere for granted.

0:47:120:47:15

-It's a small area,

-but a proud area...

0:47:160:47:19

-..that's happy to share its secrets

-if you know where to look.

0:47:190:47:23

-I wonder what others will come

-to light when I return here.

0:47:230:47:27

-S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.

0:47:430:47:45

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0:47:450:47:45

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