Merthyr Cynefin


Merthyr

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-Wales has a history of rebellion

-through the centuries.

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-It was also a cradle

-for the Industrial Revolution.

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-It's easy to take

-our industries for granted.

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-It somehow feels

-as if they've always been here.

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-There was no Twitter

-to air grievances 200 years ago.

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-You had to stand up and act.

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-This programme

-comes from Merthyr Tydfil.

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-It may be a small area,

-but it has lots to offer...

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-..from the splendour of the wealthy

-ironmasters and innovators...

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-..to the remains

-of heavy industries.

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-This is hard work!

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-Although an industrial town,

-Merthyr Tydfil is in a scenic area.

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-To the south,

-the valleys head towards Cardiff.

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-To the north, the Brecon Beacons

-draw adventurers from far and wide.

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-As you can see from here,

-industry is only part of the story.

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-Perhaps this area transforms itself

-faster than any other part of Wales.

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-This is our habitat.

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-Merthyr Tydfil's development

-is comparatively unusual.

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-It's not a market town or a port...

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-..and it can't trace its development

-back over millennia.

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-At the end of the 17th century,

-there were only 40 houses here.

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-But the population exploded such,

-thanks to the iron industries...

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-..that Merthyr Tydfil

-was once Wales' most populous town.

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-The heavy industries have long gone,

-but over 60,000 still live here.

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-Young people are bringing a spark

-and an energy to the town's future.

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-We've come to Dowlais today...

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-..because there's a room here named

-after my John Owen, my grandfather.

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-He was one of the last workers

-at the Ifor Works...

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-..which was the last ironworks

-in Dowlais.

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-This is a photo of him

-as a young man.

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-This photo was taken

-on the day the last cast was made.

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-There were only seven years

-between that day and my birth.

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-Even so, it's like some legend.

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-There's a huge difference

-between my experience of Merthyr...

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-..and my grandfather's first-hand

-experience of those industries.

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-It's the same, but different...

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-..like returning to somewhere

-familiar yet unfamiliar.

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-But the way you tell it...

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-..local people

-are still proud of Merthyr Tydfil.

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-Extremely proud.

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-It may be be

-one of the few things left.

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-So many buildings have been lost,

-but the history remains.

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-That's why people

-hold onto it so tightly.

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-But I think Merthyr as a town

-has a reputation beyond its size.

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-Its reputation

-is so much bigger than the place.

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-There's a reason

-why Merthyr is so well known.

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-It played a pivotal role

-in the Industrial Revolution...

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-..and also in the revolution

-of the working class.

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-Today, I'm on the trail

-of the Merthyr Rising...

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-..the industrial action that started

-a war between workers and masters.

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-From the town centre,

-I'll head to Penydarren Park...

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-..before focusing on the man who

-became a symbol of the uprising...

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-..Dic Penderyn.

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-Merthyr lay in the shadow

-of numerous ironworks...

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-..like this one, Cyfarthfa.

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-Over a third of Merthyr's population

-worked in the iron industry...

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-..for two very wealthy families,

-the Guests and the Crawshays.

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-The town and the industry,

-were having a tough time.

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-The price of iron was low,

-and ordinary people were suffering.

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-In 1830, bailiffs entered the home

-of an old lady, Margaret Rees...

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-..dragged her from her bed

-and left her dying in the street.

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-With growing tension

-between workers and masters...

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-..something had to change.

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-The protests lacked focus.

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-There was no clear leader

-or distinct aim...

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-..but it sparked a movement

-that began right here in Merthyr.

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-Before long,

-it would shake the world.

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-The rising

-and the working class leaders...

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-..aren't the only people

-remembered in Merthyr.

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-The home of musician Joseph Parry...

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-..who composed Aberystwyth

-and Myfanwy, still stands here.

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-One particular project brings

-a poet and an artist together...

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-..to ensure that these historic

-buildings will never be forgotten.

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-I'm working on a drawing

-of Chapel Row.

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-I'll also include Dowlais...

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-..the windows of Dowlais and so on.

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-This is part of a special project

-that you're both involved with.

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-It's a joint project

-between the two of us...

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-..combining art and poetry.

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-I'm very passionate

-about architecture...

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-..and the idea that architecture

-can reflect the history of a place.

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-In my first week as a student

-at the University of Liverpool...

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-..I was given a project

-to draw several buildings.

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-One of them struck me

-as particularly interesting.

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-Within a week, it was demolished,

-and I wasn't aware of that fact.

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-A building disappearing can have

-a psychological effect on residents.

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-It's happened to you, in a way.

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-The sadness that so many buildings

-in Merthyr have been lost.

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-Merthyr is infamous

-for architectural loss.

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-Considering that it was once the

-world's leading industrial centre...

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-..so few things remain

-to attest to that rich history.

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-When you lose buildings...

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-..you lose more than architecture

-and physical structures.

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-Time is breached.

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-A part of the fabric of the town

-is now missing.

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-You have examples

-of drawings you've done in Cardiff.

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-I take it from the tiger..

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-Yes, this is Butetown.

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-This is Splott.

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-The idea of the other Dowlais works

-that was in that part of Cardiff.

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-Workers from the valleys

-went to work in the works in Splott.

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-That's why Welsh

-stayed stronger in Splott...

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-..longer than it did

-in other parts of Cardiff.

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-At the turn of the century,

-most people in Merthyr spoke Welsh.

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-Those workers

-were transplanted to Splott.

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-So, Welsh was stronger there.

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-Do you think there is such a thing

-as Welsh architecture?

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-Looking at the architecture

-of these cottages in particular...

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-..they are a little larger

-than typical valley houses.

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-I'm given to understand

-that they housed ironworkers...

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-..who were more skilled

-than ordinary workers.

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-It's sad that they wouldn't

-have survived as they have...

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-..if Joseph Parry

-hadn't been born and raised here.

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-If it wasn't for that link

-with someone famous...

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-..or comparatively famous,

-at least...

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-..these houses

-would also have been demolished.

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-The Taff Trail runs over 55 miles

-from Cardiff to Brecon...

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-..past some of South Wales' wonders.

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-This leisurely section,

-through Cefncoedycymer...

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-..seems unremarkable from here.

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-But to be exact, the path doesn't

-actually go through the village.

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-It goes over it.

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-Walkers and cyclists

-use this path today...

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-..but years ago, it was different.

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-In the 1860s, work began

-on building the viaduct...

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-..to link Merthyr Tydfil

-with Brecon.

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-Railways spread like fireworks

-across the country at the time...

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-..but laying tracks

-wasn't without its problems.

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-This viaduct is unique,

-in that it's curved.

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-That was to avoid land owned

-by ironmaster Robert Crawshay...

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-..who didn't want

-such a thing near it.

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-It cost a total of 25,000.

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-That's about 2 million

-in modern terms.

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-Small change, given the importance

-of trains to the area.

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-But it's important to remember

-the importance of this area...

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-..to the development of the railway

-industry in the first place.

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-You could say

-that it all began here.

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-For a century up to the 1960s...

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-..the Brecon and Merthyr Railway

-ran north of Merthyr Tydfil...

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-..part of a railway network

-that carried cargo and passengers...

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-..across the South Wales Valleys.

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-Today, the Brecon

-Mountain Railway runs here.

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-It has carried tourists

-for almost 50 years now.

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-But trains ran through Merthyr

-Tydfil long before this line.

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-Long before any line, actually.

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-If we think of early trains,

-some names quickly spring to mind.

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-At the top, Stephenson's Rocket.

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-But 25 years before the Rocket...

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-..a young industry was taking its

-first steps here in Merthyr Tydfil.

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-In 1803, Samuel Homfray,

-owner of Penydarren Ironworks...

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-..went to Cornwall to meet

-a colourful young engineer...

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-..who knew steam engines

-better than anyone.

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-His name was Richard Trevithick.

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-Homfray wanted Trevithick

-to devise a steam hammer...

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-..but on arriving in Merthyr,

-the Cornishman had another idea.

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-There were 9.5 miles of tram tracks

-between Penydarren and Abercynon.

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-This was perfect

-for what Trevithick had in mind.

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-Ponies and wagons hauled the trams

-along the tracks back then.

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-But Trevithick thought

-that he had a better idea.

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-He designed

-a fairly Gothic-looking machine...

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-..a huge beast

-with wheels everywhere...

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-..pistons and a narrow chimney

-coughing steam everywhere.

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-Ultimately, it came down to a bet

-between Homfray and the Crawshays.

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-Could Trevithick's engine...

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-..haul ten tons of iron

-the whole way?

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-The prize? 500 guineas.

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-About 40,000 in today's money.

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-It was a February morning in 1804

-when the engine set off.

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-It's easy for us

-to laugh at the scene.

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-This clumsy black engine

-crawling along the tracks...

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-..at five miles per hour.

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-But for people then,

-it must have seemed miraculous.

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-That's why 70 local wags

-climbed onto the engine...

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-..more than doubling its weight...

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-..and becoming

-the first train passengers!

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-Trevithick marched

-ahead of the engine...

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-..checking the track and listening

-for strange noises from the engine.

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-You can imagine the celebrations

-once they reached Abercynon...

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-..four hours later.

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-Trevithick hadn't fully grasped the

-significance of the new invention.

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-Its development was left to others,

-like George and Robert Stephenson.

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-But when Stephenson's Rocket

-made its maiden trip in 1830...

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-..the iron for the tracks

-came from Penydarren.

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-Another invaluable contribution

-by this area to the rail industry.

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-Industry and history are

-an integral part of Merthyr Tydfil.

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-You need only scratch the surface

-to realize...

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-..that these influences leave

-their mark on everyone in some way.

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-I don't always start with charcoal.

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-It doesn't really matter

-what I start with...

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-..because it's gone at the end.

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-Sometimes, I'll start

-with a clear idea...

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-..and it doesn't change much.

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-But it can sometimes

-change completely.

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-Political history

-is very important in Merthyr.

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-I think that comes out in my work.

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-It's an interesting question.

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-Would my work look different

-if I lived somewhere else?

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-I'm not sure.

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-Originally,

-after finishing college...

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-..my work reacted

-to the here and now.

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-But since my children were born...

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-..I've thought much more about

-the future, where we are going.

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-We look at history

-through rose-tinted glasses.

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-Yes, history is important,

-but we mustn't forget the future.

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-We have to ask the question,

-how can we make things better?

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-The streets of Williamstown

-are a rare example...

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-..of working-class houses

-in Merthyr Tydfil.

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-Unexpectedly,

-it wasn't just the men...

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-..who worked

-in the heavy industries.

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-Some people might not be aware...

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-..that women were employed

-in the ironworks.

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-Some jobs were only done by women.

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-For example,

-they worked in the brickworks...

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-..making bricks

-to line the furnaces.

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-Women also did very heavy work...

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-..cutting limestone

-with huge hammers.

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-Women were also employed

-as pilers...

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-..stacking coal

-ready for the furnaces.

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-They also worked with the coals

-that came out of the furnaces.

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-The tip girls, as they were called.

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-They loaded the stuff onto the trams

-and unloaded it onto the tips.

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-780 women worked

-at the Dowlais works.

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-Of those, 20% were under 18.

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-Life for women

-in the ironmasters' families...

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-..was very different to that

-of the women of Williamstown.

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-But the likes of Rose Crawshay and

-Charlotte Guest did their best...

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-..to improve the lives

-of the workforce.

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-The splendour of the gardens

-at Cyfarthfa Castle...

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-..reflects the wealth

-of the Crawshay family at the time.

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-The name Crawshay

-rankles greatly with many people...

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-..which may not be very fair

-to the wife, Rose Crawshay.

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-You're right,

-the name Crawshay does that.

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-Everyone's familiar with Richard

-Crawshay and the men...

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-..but may be less familiar

-with the women.

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-Rose Crawshay was quite remarkable.

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-She wanted to improve the lot

-of women of that age.

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-She was a member of an organization

-that supported women's suffrage...

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-..and campaigned for women's rights

-in divorce cases, for example...

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-..and childcare,

-and she worked extremely hard.

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-Even so,

-the names of the wealthy families...

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-..are still held in contempt

-in the town.

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-Many question if the work to improve

-workers' living conditions...

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-..was merely philanthropy...

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-..or rather an attempt to tame them

-and prevent any revolt.

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-Taking all this

-into consideration...

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-..do you think

-it was a cynical scheme?

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-There is a cynical element,

-but good work was done.

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-The wives of the ironmasters

-played an important role in that.

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-You might have heard

-of Lady Charlotte Guest.

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-She came to Merthyr

-as a young woman, about 18.

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-She married a man

-who was much older than her...

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-..Josiah John Guest,

-owner of the Dowlais works.

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-When she came here, she became

-interested in Welsh and learnt it.

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-She became famous, of course,

-for translating the Mabinogi.

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-The people of Merthyr held Lady

-Charlotte Guest in high regard.

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-She was a great believer

-in education.

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-She did think that a good education

-was important, as she had received.

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-She wanted children and adults

-to be given opportunities.

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-She had a plan to establish schools.

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-A lot of the profits of Dowlais

-was spent on establishing schools.

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-She was prominent in that respect.

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-Today, I'm on the trail

-of the Merthyr Rising.

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-As May 1831 went on, the Merthyr

-Rising grew ever more fervent.

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-There were protests every night.

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-At the end of the month, a gathering

-was held on the moor above Dowlais.

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-That's when some names

-first came to prominence.

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-Dic Dywyll was a blind man

-who gave a long speech...

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-..drawing workers' attention

-to the ironmasters' huge salaries...

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-..and Lewis Lewis,

-Lewsyn yr Heliwr...

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-..the most influential figure

-of the entire rebellion.

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-Lewsyn led the men, standing

-in front of them, fist raised.

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-The men in turn followed him,

-chanting Welsh slogans.

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-On 2 June, Lewsyn yr Heliwr led the

-men down to the old Castle Hotel.

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-While local businessmen met inside,

-Lewsyn and his men stood outside...

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-..demanding a fair price for bread

-and wage rises.

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-Between the two factions

-stood the army.

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-After the demands were refused,

-the army's weapons were stolen...

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-..and turned against them

-in a battle on Merthyr's streets.

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-All the authorities could do

-was make the odd arrest...

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-..in an attempt to maintain

-some sort of order.

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-One detainee was Lewsyn yr Heliwr.

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-The other is a man whose name

-is now in the history books.

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-The workers ruled the town for days.

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-Eighteen members of the public were

-killed, and hundreds were injured.

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-The ironmasters managed to flee

-to Penydarren House down the road...

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-..and locked the doors behind them.

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-The work done by Richard Trevithick

-here in Merthyr Tydfil...

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-..was pivotal to the development

-of the steam train.

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-After his engine successfully hauled

-ten tons of iron and 70 men...

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-..you could say that this was

-the world's first passenger train.

0:22:340:22:39

-But ask most people

-who invented the steam train...

0:22:390:22:43

-..and not many

-would say Richard Trevithick.

0:22:430:22:46

-By the time trains

-came to the fore in the 1830s...

0:22:550:22:58

-..Richard Trevithick

-barely had a penny to his name...

0:22:580:23:02

-..even though he'd made

-lots of other people wealthy.

0:23:020:23:06

-He returned from South America,

-after numerous failed ventures...

0:23:060:23:10

-..and the patent for his Penydarren

-locomotive had been lost.

0:23:110:23:15

-In 1833,

-Trevithick died of pneumonia.

0:23:190:23:23

-There were no friends or relatives

-by his deathbed...

0:23:230:23:27

-..and he was buried

-in an unmarked grave.

0:23:270:23:30

-But his name hasn't been forgotten.

0:23:300:23:32

-A society has been named after him.

0:23:330:23:35

-Statues, buildings

-and streets commemorate him...

0:23:350:23:38

-..in Cornwall, Cardiff,

-Dartford, London and Abercynon...

0:23:390:23:43

-..and here

-in Merthyr Tydfil, of course.

0:23:430:23:45

-But it's sad, somehow,

-that such a talented innovator...

0:23:470:23:52

-..didn't receive the recognition

-he deserved while he was alive.

0:23:540:23:58

-.

0:24:010:24:01

-Subtitles

0:24:080:24:08

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:24:080:24:10

-We're on the trail of Merthyr

-Tydfil's remarkable history.

0:24:140:24:19

-No story is bigger

-than that of the Merthyr Rising...

0:24:190:24:24

-..when thousands of workers

-revolted against the ironmasters.

0:24:240:24:29

-Every year, tens of thousands

-of football fans...

0:24:330:24:37

-..come here to Penydarren Park.

0:24:370:24:40

-But in June 1831...

0:24:400:24:42

-..with the Merthyr Rising

-taking over the streets...

0:24:420:24:46

-..the welcome here

-was much more tepid.

0:24:460:24:49

-This is the old site

-of Penydarren House's gardens...

0:24:510:24:54

-..home of the Homfray family.

0:24:550:24:57

-Much of the Merthyr Rising's history

-is focused on the workers.

0:24:570:25:02

-But another battle was brewing

-between the ironmasters themselves.

0:25:020:25:06

-They shared politics and beliefs

-but weren't all that united.

0:25:070:25:11

-The Guests from Dowlais didn't like

-the Crawshays from Cyfarthfa.

0:25:110:25:16

-They viewed Cyfarthfa Castle

-as a mere folly...

0:25:160:25:20

-..and couldn't abide William

-Crawshay's very short temper.

0:25:200:25:24

-But Penydarren ironmaster Samuel

-Homfray's temper was even worse.

0:25:250:25:30

-He lived at Penydarren House.

0:25:300:25:32

-For a time,

-during the Merthyr Rising...

0:25:320:25:35

-..the ironmasters

-were under his roof...

0:25:350:25:38

-..having locked themselves in

-to flee the madness outside.

0:25:380:25:42

-At the root of all this

-was business and money.

0:25:440:25:47

-The Guests were wealthier

-than the Crawshays...

0:25:470:25:50

-..who were wealthier

-than the Homfrays.

0:25:510:25:53

-Nothing has changed.

0:25:530:25:55

-But unlike some other

-British industrialists...

0:25:550:25:59

-..they lived in Merthyr

-and made their homes here.

0:25:590:26:02

-Both the Crawshays

-and Guests spoke Welsh...

0:26:030:26:06

-..not that it was

-of much comfort to the workers.

0:26:070:26:10

-Outside Penydarren House,

-the town was being torn apart.

0:26:100:26:14

-In Hirwaun,

-the workers killed a calf...

0:26:140:26:17

-..and soaked a flag in its blood.

0:26:180:26:20

-The red flag.

0:26:200:26:22

-The same red flag

-that would be adopted...

0:26:220:26:24

-..by workers' movements

-all over the world.

0:26:250:26:28

-With people from Yorkshire to London

-taking notice...

0:26:280:26:32

-..and workers

-all over Britain rousing...

0:26:320:26:35

-..the authorities

-had to stop things quickly.

0:26:350:26:38

-Cyfarthfa Castle was the grand home

-of the Crawshay family...

0:26:430:26:47

-..who made their fortune

-in the iron industry.

0:26:470:26:51

-By today,

-it's a tourist attraction.

0:26:510:26:53

-Part of the castle

-houses Merthyr Tydfil's museum.

0:26:550:26:58

-But for almost 70 years,

-until the 1980s...

0:26:580:27:02

-..the building

-had a very different purpose.

0:27:020:27:05

-Hundreds of local children knew it

-as Cyfarthfa Castle Grammar School.

0:27:050:27:10

-I spent seven years here...

0:27:110:27:15

-..between 1954 and 1961,

-but I never came to this room.

0:27:150:27:19

-This was the staffroom at the time.

0:27:190:27:22

-It's very grand.

0:27:220:27:23

-It is now, but it wasn't then.

0:27:240:27:26

-In the far end

-was the headmaster's room.

0:27:260:27:30

-This was the corridor

-where the headmaster...

0:27:320:27:37

-..and all the teachers...

0:27:370:27:40

-..strode grandly

-towards that door...

0:27:400:27:44

-..where the hall was, and where

-the daily morning service was held.

0:27:440:27:48

-Unfortunately, only the museum

-section of the former school...

0:27:500:27:55

-..is safe enough to explore today.

0:27:550:27:57

-But clear traces remain outside,

-bringing back happy memories.

0:27:580:28:03

-It's an inspiring place

-in which to go to school.

0:28:040:28:08

-It's a striking and majestic

-castellated building.

0:28:080:28:12

-It was considered to be

-an exceptional school in Merthyr.

0:28:120:28:17

-There was another grammar school

-in Merthyr, the County...

0:28:170:28:21

-..but the County School

-wasn't as good as Cyfarthfa.

0:28:210:28:25

-Cyfarthfa Castle Grammar School,

-the former home of the Crawshays.

0:28:250:28:31

-We used to walk through that door

-into the school.

0:28:320:28:36

-On the wall in front of us...

0:28:360:28:39

-..we were greeted by pictures

-of successful former pupils.

0:28:390:28:43

-Gwyn Alf Williams, Glanmor Williams.

0:28:430:28:46

-They were the first things we saw.

0:28:470:28:49

-One teacher in particular

-inspired his pupils...

0:28:510:28:55

-..and kindled lifelong passions.

0:28:550:28:57

-This was the important room for me,

-the classroom of Arthur Harris.

0:29:010:29:06

-I spent three years here...

0:29:070:29:10

-..at the feet

-of this Gamaliel among teachers.

0:29:110:29:15

-Arthur always emphasized

-the value of first-hand experiences.

0:29:160:29:22

-To get first-hand experiences,

-you had to leave the classroom...

0:29:220:29:27

-..and go out into the field.

0:29:280:29:30

-Go to local quarries

-to savour the thrill...

0:29:300:29:34

-..of coming across

-some of the minerals in the rocks...

0:29:340:29:38

-..and, better still,

-some of the fossils in the rocks.

0:29:380:29:42

-Personally, coming here today

-is a very sad experience.

0:29:420:29:48

-Not just because this classroom

-has now been lost...

0:29:480:29:54

-..but also because this is one

-of Merthyr's landmark buildings.

0:29:540:30:00

-The home of the Crawshays...

0:30:010:30:03

-..the most important ironmasters

-in this area.

0:30:040:30:08

-By now,

-substantial parts of the building...

0:30:080:30:11

-..have gone to the dogs,

-make no bones about it.

0:30:120:30:15

-You can't walk through Merthyr...

0:30:300:30:33

-..without noticing the statues

-of boxing heroes.

0:30:330:30:36

-As well as those

-who made their mark in the ring...

0:30:370:30:40

-..one son of Merthyr made his mark

-as a boxing journalist and author.

0:30:400:30:45

-I was an ordinary news journalist...

0:30:470:30:51

-..but a vacancy cropped up for

-Western Mail boxing correspondent.

0:30:520:30:56

-That's how I started,

-about 40 years ago.

0:30:570:31:00

-What is it about the sport

-that attracts you?

0:31:010:31:05

-It's always said that you play

-football, rugby and cricket.

0:31:050:31:11

-In boxing, no-one plays.

0:31:110:31:14

-It's hard, it's serious

-and it's dangerous, I must admit.

0:31:140:31:19

-But there's something about boxing.

0:31:190:31:21

-It provides a thrill

-other sports don't.

0:31:220:31:24

-What is it about this area

-that turned out so many fine boxers?

0:31:250:31:30

-Most of the men in Merthyr

-in days gone by...

0:31:310:31:34

-..either worked in the pits...

0:31:350:31:37

-..or in the ironworks in Dowlais.

0:31:380:31:42

-They were hard men, who worked hard.

0:31:420:31:45

-Strong men.

0:31:450:31:46

-That was the way

-arguments were sorted out.

0:31:460:31:52

-In Merthyr and all the valleys,

-boxing booths came around.

0:31:520:31:56

-They'd go from fair to fair

-or from village to village.

0:31:560:32:00

-They'd stay for a weekend,

-and local boys got a chance...

0:32:010:32:05

-..to challenge the semi-professional

-boxers in the booths.

0:32:050:32:10

-Boxers like Jim Driscoll

-and Jimmy Wilde...

0:32:100:32:14

-..learnt their craft...

0:32:140:32:17

-..in the booths against men

-of different sizes...

0:32:180:32:22

-..and different levels of skill...

0:32:220:32:25

-..or no skill at all!

0:32:250:32:28

-They learnt how to avoid punches

-as well as how to throw them.

0:32:280:32:34

-Dowlais Amateur Boxing Club

-is still as popular as ever.

0:32:420:32:47

-The town's youngsters

-are taught their craft...

0:32:470:32:51

-..by two men who were trained

-by boxing giant Eddie Thomas.

0:32:520:32:56

-At one time, Eddie Thomas,

-and it's never been known before...

0:33:010:33:05

-..and won't be again...

0:33:050:33:07

-..Eddie Thomas

-had the whole Welsh side...

0:33:070:33:10

-..from the flyweight, that was me...

0:33:100:33:13

-..right up to light heavyweight.

0:33:130:33:17

-He didn't have a heavyweight,

-and that's all.

0:33:170:33:20

-Only one in the Welsh side

-wasn't in Eddie Thomas' gym.

0:33:200:33:24

-All of them?

0:33:240:33:25

-Every one of them, all fighting

-for Wales at the same time.

0:33:260:33:29

-So, who's that then?

0:33:300:33:31

-That's me and Winstone.

0:33:310:33:33

-We were a good team,

-weren't we, Ger?

0:33:340:33:37

-We had a bit of fun, mind.

0:33:370:33:39

-It's clear that boxing

-is in the blood in Merthyr.

0:33:420:33:45

-The next generation is just as keen

-to share their experiences.

0:33:460:33:50

-What do you like about coming here?

0:33:510:33:52

-What do you like about coming here?

-

-I like to keep fit.

0:33:520:33:54

-I think it's fun.

0:33:540:33:56

-And it brings colour

-to your cheeks!

0:33:560:33:59

-I'm wearing these,

-so should I have a go?

0:34:000:34:03

-Me or you?

0:34:040:34:05

-Me or you?

-

-You go first, then me.

0:34:050:34:06

-Start with a jab.

0:34:070:34:08

-Start with a jab.

-

-A jab first.

0:34:080:34:09

-Jab, right.

0:34:100:34:11

-Keep them up.

0:34:120:34:13

-Keep them up.

-

-Keep them up.

0:34:130:34:14

-And hit it hard.

0:34:140:34:16

-And try not to laugh!

0:34:170:34:20

-.

0:34:210:34:21

-Subtitles

0:34:280:34:28

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:34:280:34:30

-Unlike any other town

-in Wales or the world...

0:34:300:34:33

-..Merthyr Tydfil

-has three statues of boxers.

0:34:340:34:37

-They are the town's big heroes.

0:34:370:34:39

-They sweated and bled...

0:34:390:34:41

-..and literally fought

-to leave their mark.

0:34:410:34:45

-Eddie Thomas was the first

-major boxing hero in Merthyr.

0:34:460:34:51

-It's said that the statue follows

-the town's honourable tradition...

0:34:510:34:56

-..of defying the authorities...

0:34:560:34:58

-..by aiming a punch towards

-the town hall and its councillors.

0:34:580:35:03

-Howard Winstone

-was a world champion...

0:35:030:35:05

-..and the only Welshman to win gold

-at the Cardiff Empire Games.

0:35:060:35:10

-Johnny Owen, the Merthyr Matchstick,

-European and Commonwealth champ...

0:35:110:35:16

-..who went on to fight

-for the world championship.

0:35:160:35:19

-If people think about boxing

-and Merthyr...

0:35:480:35:51

-..the first name to come to mind

-is Eddie Thomas.

0:35:520:35:55

-Eddie Thomas was a fantastic boxer.

0:35:550:35:58

-He was British champion

-at amateur and professional level.

0:35:580:36:02

-After retiring, he became

-a fantastic manager and trainer.

0:36:030:36:08

-Eddie didn't become world champion,

-but two of his fighters did.

0:36:090:36:13

-Howard Winstone from Merthyr

-and Scotsman Ken Buchanan.

0:36:140:36:17

-What kind of boxer

-was Howard Winstone?

0:36:180:36:21

-He was like his trainer.

0:36:220:36:24

-He used a straight left.

0:36:240:36:27

-Not many boxers nowadays

-box like Howard used to box.

0:36:270:36:32

-He won the Lonsdale Belt

-as British champion...

0:36:320:36:37

-..and went on to challenge Mitsunori

-Seki of Japan for the world title.

0:36:370:36:43

-Of course, Winstone won the bout.

0:36:430:36:45

-Of course, Winstone won the bout.

-

-Terrific.

0:36:450:36:47

-Eddie Thomas and Howard Winstone

-then went on to influence...

0:36:470:36:51

-..another famous boxer

-from Merthyr, Johnny Owen.

0:36:510:36:55

-Johnny Owen was the next generation.

0:36:560:36:59

-This photo was taken

-before he flew out to Los Angeles...

0:36:590:37:03

-..to fight for the world title

-in what would be his last fight.

0:37:040:37:08

-Were you at the fight?

0:37:080:37:10

-I was there, I was there.

0:37:100:37:12

-Johnny was doing well, fair play.

0:37:120:37:15

-He was ahead on points

-until the ninth round.

0:37:150:37:19

-The Mexican, Lupe Pintor,

-knocked him down in the ninth.

0:37:190:37:24

-He got up and fought

-for another three rounds.

0:37:240:37:28

-But when he went down

-in the twelfth round...

0:37:280:37:31

-..he didn't get up.

0:37:320:37:33

-Lupe Pintor came to Wales

-several years later, didn't he?

0:37:340:37:40

-Yes, but Lupe was a bit reticent.

0:37:400:37:45

-He wasn't sure

-what kind of welcome awaited him...

0:37:450:37:49

-..given that he had killed

-a local hero.

0:37:490:37:54

-I remember, in the rain

-in the town centre...

0:37:540:37:59

-..Johnny's father and Lupe Pintor...

0:38:000:38:03

-..arm in arm...

0:38:030:38:05

-..tears rolling down their faces...

0:38:050:38:10

-..looking at the statue

-of Johnny Owen.

0:38:100:38:13

-In the 1820s, this was the site of

-the Guest family's Dowlais stables.

0:38:480:38:53

-It's a prime but rare example

-of the town's history.

0:38:530:38:57

-Most of the buildings

-may have disappeared...

0:38:570:39:00

-..but the history of Merthyr and

-the Rising is still all around us.

0:39:000:39:04

-By 7 June 1831,

-26 people had been arrested.

0:39:070:39:11

-Clearly, that wasn't enough.

0:39:130:39:15

-Someone had to be punished.

0:39:150:39:17

-Lewsyn yr Heliwr, of course, the

-closest the rebels had to a leader.

0:39:180:39:23

-It's said that another leading rebel

-met the workers in this pub.

0:39:240:39:29

-Richard Lewis - Dic Penderyn.

0:39:300:39:32

-It was alleged that Dic...

0:39:340:39:36

-..stabbed Private Donald Black

-with a bayonet...

0:39:370:39:40

-..during the melee

-outside the Castle Hotel.

0:39:400:39:43

-But what evidence

-did they have to prove it?

0:39:440:39:47

-Almost none.

0:39:470:39:48

-When Dic appeared in court...

0:39:490:39:51

-..neither the prosecution witness

-nor the judge spoke a word of Welsh.

0:39:510:39:56

-Dic was taken to Cardiff

-and hanged on 13 August.

0:39:560:40:02

-He was then buried

-in unconsecrated land.

0:40:020:40:06

-Lewsyn yr Heliwr

-was transported to Australia.

0:40:060:40:09

-Some say that Lewsyn

-came back to Merthyr once...

0:40:110:40:14

-..and was seen in the crowd when

-the Taff Vale Railway was opened...

0:40:150:40:20

-..just to have one more look

-at his native town.

0:40:210:40:25

-There's one

-even more incredible story...

0:40:270:40:30

-..about a man

-called Ieuan or Ianto Parker.

0:40:300:40:33

-On his deathbed 33 years later,

-he confessed that he stabbed Black.

0:40:340:40:39

-That Dic Penderyn

-was completely innocent.

0:40:390:40:42

-Whatever the truth,

-two weeks after the Rising ended...

0:40:430:40:47

-..trade unions sprouted

-across South Wales.

0:40:470:40:50

-The Red Flag spread out

-across the world.

0:40:500:40:54

-The Merthyr Rising and the workers'

-efforts will never be forgotten.

0:40:540:40:59

-North of Merthyr, near the Brecon

-Beacons, lies Pontsticill reservoir.

0:41:030:41:09

-It hides a sad secret...

0:41:090:41:11

-..caused by past engineers'

-lack of geological understanding.

0:41:110:41:16

-We're more or less on the banks

-of Pontsticill reservoir...

0:41:180:41:23

-..in an area that was

-a part of my research area.

0:41:230:41:27

-I served my geological

-apprenticeship here.

0:41:270:41:32

-This reservoir is interesting.

0:41:320:41:34

-There is an interesting story...

0:41:350:41:37

-..initially about Pentwyn reservoir

-rather than Pontsticill.

0:41:370:41:41

-That was built, more or less,

-where the present reservoir narrows.

0:41:420:41:47

-Sadly, the engineer responsible...

0:41:470:41:50

-..didn't ask why

-the valley narrowed.

0:41:500:41:53

-Had he asked that question,

-had he inspected the land...

0:41:530:41:57

-..he would have realized...

0:41:570:42:00

-..that in the exact spot

-where the dam was built...

0:42:000:42:05

-..there's a huge block

-of limestone...

0:42:050:42:09

-..in the middle

-of the old red sandstone.

0:42:090:42:13

-The reservoir leaked.

0:42:130:42:16

-Fifteen million litres

-of water a day.

0:42:160:42:20

-As the water leaked

-through the cracks in the rock...

0:42:200:42:24

-..it weakened the dam itself.

0:42:240:42:26

-The fear was

-that the dam would fail...

0:42:260:42:29

-..and that water would cascade

-down the Taf Fechan valley...

0:42:290:42:34

-..towards Cefncoedycymer

-and on to Merthyr...

0:42:350:42:38

-..destroying homes

-and buildings in its wake.

0:42:390:42:43

-There was no way to solve

-the problem at Pentwyn itself.

0:42:440:42:48

-They had to create

-another reservoir...

0:42:480:42:51

-..this one, Pontsticill reservoir.

0:42:510:42:55

-What was here before the reservoir?

0:42:550:42:57

-What was here before the reservoir?

-

-The small village of Pontsticill.

0:42:570:43:01

-They had to pay the price

-for the engineer's failure...

0:43:020:43:07

-..to grasp the nature of the land

-at Pentwyn itself.

0:43:070:43:13

-A Welsh-speaking community

-was submerged.

0:43:130:43:19

-Not unlike Tryweryn,

-in that respect.

0:43:190:43:22

-The only difference...

0:43:220:43:24

-..is that Tryweryn was drowned

-for the benefit of Liverpool...

0:43:240:43:29

-..the other side of Offa's Dyke.

0:43:290:43:31

-Our own people were responsible

-for events in the Taf Fechan valley.

0:43:310:43:36

-As an archaeologist,

-what interests me about Merthyr...

0:43:500:43:54

-..is the industry.

0:43:540:43:56

-But that wouldn't have been here

-if it wasn't for the geology.

0:43:560:44:00

-Yes, the geology

-was vital for the industry.

0:44:000:44:03

-They needed iron ore

-in the first place, naturally.

0:44:040:44:07

-Iron ore was plentiful...

0:44:070:44:09

-..in the same series of rocks

-that bore the coal seams.

0:44:090:44:14

-Coal was also needed

-to fire the furnaces.

0:44:140:44:18

-But limestone was also needed

-to purify the iron, in effect.

0:44:180:44:24

-All three were readily available

-in the Merthyr area.

0:44:240:44:29

-As a geologist, do you think

-of yourself as a historian?

0:44:290:44:33

-Of course I do.

0:44:340:44:35

-That's the difference between us.

0:44:350:44:37

-You might confine history

-to the past 500,000 years...

0:44:380:44:43

-..whereas I prefer to go back

-over 700 million years.

0:44:440:44:50

-That's when the story

-in Wales begins.

0:44:500:44:53

-But that's not old either,

-in the context of the world...

0:44:530:44:58

-..in which case

-we're talking about rocks...

0:44:580:45:02

-..that are 4,000 million years old.

0:45:020:45:05

-It's a matter of perspective!

0:45:050:45:07

-Definitely.

0:45:070:45:08

-Before leaving Merthyr,

-I'm back at Joseph Parry's home...

0:45:180:45:23

-..to see the finished drawing

-and to hear the poem it inspired.

0:45:240:45:29

-Efa, let's see the completed work.

0:45:310:45:33

-It's wonderful.

0:45:360:45:37

-As well as Chapel Row itself,

-I added Bethesda chapel...

0:45:370:45:43

-..where Joseph Parry's mother

-used to run the Sunday school.

0:45:430:45:48

-That's where he was

-first introduced to music.

0:45:480:45:52

-I've portrayed Dowlais as it looked

-when the ironworks were open...

0:45:530:45:57

-..and how it looked

-when Joseph Parry was growing up.

0:45:580:46:02

-It's lovely, so let's hear the poem

-to complete the picture, Morgan.

0:46:020:46:08

-My curse was to eventually

-understand her from afar

0:46:090:46:12

-And learning to understand her

-was the final exile.

0:46:130:46:16

-Absence is necessary

-for Merthyr to reveal its scar.

0:46:160:46:19

-I was far enough away

-to see it in its entirety.

0:46:190:46:22

-I'm complete because of it.

0:46:230:46:25

-The old town's notes

-are constantly stolen.

0:46:260:46:28

-But a new song is needed

-to heal a wider rift.

0:46:290:46:31

-The fields of spoils

-will flower soon.

0:46:310:46:34

-Fish will return to the dark waters.

0:46:340:46:37

-But within me,

-all the fragments are reunited

0:46:380:46:41

-The rift I created

-is filled by my language.

0:46:410:46:44

-As a settlement,

-Merthyr is comparatively new.

0:46:500:46:54

-But we now know

-that the town's roots...

0:46:540:46:57

-..in the rock itself

-are older than we can imagine.

0:46:570:47:01

-Even though the world has changed...

0:47:010:47:04

-..I'm confident that Merthyr will

-flourish long after we have gone.

0:47:040:47:09

-S4C Subtitles by Testun Cyf.

0:47:240:47:26

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0:47:260:47:26

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