Dyffryn Clwyd Cynefin


Dyffryn Clwyd

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-Wales is a country

-with a wealth of history.

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-History became folk tales

-which in turn became legends.

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-Things can get lost, sometimes

-for hundreds of thousands of years.

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-Ghosts, dragons, witches.

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-All wild tales,

-and nowhere suits them better.

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-This week,

-we're in the Vale of Clwyd...

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-..an expansive agricultural area

-that's home to new and old industry.

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-It has numerous remote spots,

-hiding a variety of secrets.

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-But be careful,

-or you could trample on something.

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-"When Lleweni Fawr was a lake

-and Ruthin was a harbour town."

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-That old saying gives us an insight

-into how this area once looked.

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-But time changes

-the land around us...

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-..although not necessarily

-to the same extent everywhere.

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-This is our habitat.

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-Our journey starts on the outskirts

-of the market town of Ruthin.

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-The town's history is more fiery

-than that of many other Welsh towns.

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-It saw fierce battles...

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-..between Owain Glyndwr and the

-local lords, the De Grey family.

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-But Ruthin has held on

-to its heritage...

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-..as the architecture proves.

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-Many of the buildings

-have stayed unchanged for centuries.

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-There are old hanging beams here,

-and boulders linked to King Arthur.

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-It's also where Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau

-was first published.

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-South of Ruthin, in Pentrecelyn...

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-..is a farm that witnessed

-all of this, and much more.

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-There are remnants on this farm

-that go back millions of years.

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-One of the oldest

-is the rock behind us.

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-You can see shells in the rock...

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-..which proves

-that it has been under water.

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-The Vale of Clwyd was once submerged

-all the way up to Pentrecelyn.

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-That's how the rock,

-the different strata, was formed.

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-The same process is happening

-on Australia's coral reef today...

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-..as happened here

-millions of years ago.

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-It's incredible.

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-It is odd to think

-what was here then.

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-You could say that the history

-of the Vale of Clwyd...

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-..is contained

-within the farm's boundaries.

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-There's a Roman road

-near the lower fields.

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-It ran from Caergai,

-in Llanuwchllyn, to Chester.

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-Have you been along it at all?

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-I've been along it

-with a metal detector.

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-Did you find anything?

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-Did you find anything?

-

-They took it all with them!

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-They didn't leave anything for me.

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-They have found Roman coins

-a mile further south.

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-But I haven't found anything.

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-It must be odd to think that this

-place's history goes back so far.

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-I suppose so.

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-I don't think we realize

-because we're here every day.

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-My family has been here since 1926,

-when my grandfather bought it.

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-The old part of the house,

-this corner, was built in 1580.

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-They built an extension in 1620...

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-..which has a special chimney.

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-It has eight corners.

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-I admire whoever built it

-for going to so much trouble.

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-He must have been a craftsman.

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-Grandad, Edward Vaughan Jones,

-Ted Ty'n Llanfair...

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-..kept a threshing machine.

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-I've got a book

-that has been kept since 1937-38.

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-It's a record of the farms

-where they would thresh.

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-That's my grandfather

-on the traction.

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-It's a good photo.

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-They also kept a stallion.

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-The stallion went to one farm

-in any area for a day.

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-Other nearby farms would bring

-their mares to the stallion.

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-There's a similar list in this book.

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-Service of entire horse,

-Celyn Senator, 1938.

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-One or two didn't pay.

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-I'll have to chase them!

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-I'll have to chase them!

-

-He was a busy boy too.

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-Oh, yes.

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-What about the local farms?

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-What about the local farms?

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-It's the commote of Faenol.

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-This side of Llysfasi,

-there's still a farm called Faenol.

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-That's what they call this area.

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-I wrote a piece

-for the community newspaper...

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-..about who lived in the commote

-50 years ago.

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-There were about 17 farms

-and houses here.

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-It was interesting.

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-Only two farms

-are still in the same family today.

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-Ty Isaf down the road,

-and I'm here at Ty'n Llanfair.

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-But what is heartening is that 12

-are still owned by Welsh speakers.

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-It's not bad at all.

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-The language is perfectly safe.

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-The past is much in evidence

-here at Ty'n Llanfair.

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-It's strange to think

-that we can walk the same paths...

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-..as Roman soldiers

-through these fields.

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-The history we're looking at

-in Denbigh is different.

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-Legends, superstition and tales

-of ghosts and witches abound.

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-I'm off on a circuit

-of Denbigh today.

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-I'll head up to the castle...

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-..then go to Llannefydd,

-north of the town.

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-Denbigh has a reputation

-for being a superstitious place.

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-They take ghosts and witches

-very seriously.

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-The adventurer HM Stanley,

-who was born here, noticed this.

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-"If the grown folk

-had not all shared belief...

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-"..in these gruesome creatures,

-I might have doubted they existed.

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-"But I remember to have seen them

-huddle close to the fire...

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-"..look at the shadows...

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-"..as though they lay in way

-for darkness to pounce upon them...

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-"..and carry them off

-into the ghostly limbo."

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-More recently,

-a TV programme got into trouble...

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-..for dubbing Denbigh

-"the village of the damned"...

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-..because there's so much here

-to chill the blood.

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-I won't label the town, but lots of

-things go bump in the night here...

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-..if you know where to look.

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-Take the witches of Denbigh.

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-Sydney used to summon Satan.

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-Actually, it was her son

-dressed as Satan.

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-Sioned Gorn

-could foresee the future...

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-..and hunt ghosts

-like any proper psychic.

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-Then there was Bella Fawr, seen

-in this painting by Edward Pugh.

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-Apparently,

-she removed a curse from him...

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-..and got this as a thank you.

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-The witches weren't all bad.

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-The witches

-lived near the Lenten Pool...

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-..which is now in the grounds

-of the old psychiatric hospital.

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-The site is now

-too dangerous to enter.

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-Because the building is collapsing?

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-Or because the witches hung around

-for ages after their deaths?

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-You decide, because

-I'm not hanging around.

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-North of Denbigh, on the western

-side of the Vale of Clwyd...

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-..there are surprises within

-the Elwy Valley's limestone cliffs.

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-The caves were formed by the River

-Elwy thousands of years ago.

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-You probably can't tell...

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-..but I'm on the land

-of Plas-yn-Cefn near St Asaph...

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-..owned by the Wynn family.

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-If you know the area,

-you'll know the name.

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-The Wynn family

-extends back for many centuries.

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-They can trace their lineage back

-to Llywelyn ap Gruffudd...

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-..or Llywelyn the Last.

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-But the more you peer into Cefn's

-history, the further back you go...

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-..past generations of ancestors...

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-..to the beginnings of our country

-and of mankind itself.

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-Charles Darwin himself

-came here in 1831...

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-..while on a geological trip

-with Professor Adam Sedgwick.

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-An odd couple,

-if ever there was one.

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-Darwin nurtured the revolutionary

-ideas that would make him famous...

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-..while Sedgwick

-had a very different standpoint.

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-Like many others,

-Sedgwick still believed...

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-..that the story of Noah

-and the flood was literally true.

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-He hoped to find evidence of that

-here among the rocks of North Wales.

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-Sedgwick didn't find

-the evidence that he sought.

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-But somewhere

-in the bowels of the earth here...

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-..they did find

-the tooth of a rhino...

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-..that lived here 125,000 years ago.

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-Right after leaving North Wales,

-Darwin boarded the Beagle.

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-It took him to the Galapagos...

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-..where he made one of mankind's

-most staggering discoveries.

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-His theory of evolution.

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-And while that occupied his mind...

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-..had he gone

-into another cave nearby...

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-..he wouldn't have found

-a rhino's tooth...

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-..but the tooth of something

-much more remarkable.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-The Vale of Clwyd

-isn't famous for its industry.

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-There are no furnaces

-or factories churning out smoke...

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-..and the old railways that once

-served the area are long gone.

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-But there is a successful company

-near Llannefydd...

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-..whose produce is distributed

-all over the world.

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-You don't expect to come across

-a brand-new factory...

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-..in a peaceful rural part

-of the Vale of Clwyd.

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-But over 30,000 pots of yoghurt...

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-..in 14 flavours

-are produced here every day...

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-..and the business is still growing.

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-But it was different at the outset.

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-Our parents started back in 1985.

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-I was six then, and I've grown up

-with the whole process.

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-I saw my parents

-slaving away late at night...

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-..trying to pack yoghurt into pots.

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-The bus dropped me off

-at the crossroads after school.

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-If they'd got to black cherry,

-they could have a relaxed evening.

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-But if they were only on pineapple,

-they'd be at it until nine or ten.

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-I've seen it all.

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-I've had

-an incredible upbringing, in a way.

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-So, it'll remain a family company.

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-So, it'll remain a family company.

-

-It'd be nice to carry on the story.

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-But I'd never pressurize anyone.

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-I had dreams

-back when I was ten years old.

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-I didn't see my future

-in packing yoghurts!

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-There's no pressure on anyone

-to join the business.

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-Packing yoghurts may be one way

-to describe this booming business.

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-But it all started

-over 30 years ago...

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-..in very different circumstances...

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-..as Tal-y-Bryn dairy farm

-sought new ways to make money.

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-It was tough,

-because it was just us two.

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-Gareth milked

-and I bottled the milk.

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-We washed the bottles here,

-these bottles.

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-That's how we started,

-with the hot water cupboard.

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-It's all very well to think

-we're an entrepreneurial bunch.

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-What inspired us to make yoghurt...

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-..was the fact that we had

-a by-product on our hands.

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-That was cream.

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-If you could sell cream one way

-and skim in another...

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-..for the same price as milk,

-it was a gold watch.

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-But when the cream

-became a business in itself...

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-..we had a big surplus of skim.

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-It was wooden spoon time,

-profits were small.

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-That's what happened.

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-We had to do something

-with the skim.

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-The business has stayed

-at the family home.

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-The company's history is here,

-and your roots are in the area.

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-You must be proud of that.

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-A few have asked why we don't

-relocate to an industrial estate.

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-But everyone likes coming here.

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-People like to come here for supper,

-come here to visit us.

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-The Llannefydd area

-is very important to us.

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-This is where the story is.

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-People can see who produced it...

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-..and where it's been produced.

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-Even today, in these modern times,

-people like that.

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-But having seen

-what you've created...

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-..and the fact that the company

-is in your children's hands...

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-..that must fill you with pride.

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-Yes, we do feel proud,

-and it's nice to sit back.

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-But I'm a hands-on person.

-I like to keep busy.

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-I don't really like to sit back.

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-It's hard when they're doing it,

-as long as they do it right.

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-That's what we don't like!

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-Not that they do it the right way,

-that they do it our way!

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-Yes, it's hard to let go sometimes.

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-But if you do

-let your imagination run free...

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-..the Clwydian Hills

-can be an inspirational location.

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-Recently, I've started

-to look to the hills.

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-The Clwydian Hills are incredible.

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-The next step,

-rather than just looking at them...

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-..was to get them working for me.

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-To use the mountain

-to create patterns on material.

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-I'm not sure yet

-where the idea will take me.

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-That the mountain itself

-leaves a mark.

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-As the years have passed...

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-..I've realized that we are

-perpetuating a very old Welsh craft.

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-The craft of quilting.

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-It is important to me

-to keep that tradition alive.

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-It's a native Welsh craft

-that has travelled the world.

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-I also want to develop the craft

-into the future...

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-..by using more contemporary

-and experimental techniques.

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-The line between art and craft

-is fairly thin.

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-It can take months, years even...

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-..for a project

-to mature in the subconscious.

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-It's not the stitching

-that takes time.

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-Your time is invested

-in planning and preparation.

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-It's part of your identity,

-I think...

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-..when you live in such a scenic

-and inspirational area.

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-All kinds of horrors

-have taken place...

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-..within and outside Denbigh Castle.

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-As a result, there's no surprise

-that ghost stories and worse abound.

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-In the 13th century,

-there's a story...

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-..that the son of Henry de Lacy,

-Earl of Lincoln...

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-..who built this castle

-for Edward I, fell into this well.

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-He was only 15

-when the accident happened.

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-Ever since,

-it's said that you can see him...

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-..peeping through the windows

-looking sad.

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-Some claim to have heard screams...

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-..and to feeling nervous

-and fearful for no reason.

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-There's also a story about a woman

-in white roaming these walls...

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-..and a dark shape

-darting around the place.

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-But the most famous story

-is even more incredible.

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-A dragon lived here

-in Denbigh Castle.

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-Local people called it "bych".

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-It made its home in the castle...

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-..and plummeted from the sky,

-attacking the villagers...

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-..and snatched grazing animals

-from nearby fields.

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-The villagers had no choice

-but to suffer in silence...

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-..until one hero saved the day.

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-He rushed towards the creature...

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-..and stabbed the dragon

-with his sword.

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-People started to celebrate

-and chant "Dim bych" - no dragon.

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-And, according to legend,

-fantastically but unbelievably...

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-..that's how Dinbych

-got its Welsh name.

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-It's strange how our image

-of somewhere can change.

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-Back in the early 20th century...

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-..local children played in the caves

-that are all over the Cefn estate.

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-No-one thought twice about it.

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-But in 1978, archaeologists

-came across remains here...

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-..that were older than any

-human remains ever found in Wales.

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-And since local children

-used to play here...

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-..it would be a shame

-to see the tradition die out.

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-It was also a chance to share

-the story with some local families.

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-When the archaeologists came here,

-they dug outside the cave as well.

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-This is a photo of them digging.

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-That's where they found

-a bear skull.

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-That proves there were animals here

-that you don't see today.

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-Look at the huge tooth.

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-Look at the huge tooth.

-

-It's really big.

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-The most surprising thing

-that they found during the dig...

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-..were teeth

-from a Neanderthal child...

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-..from over 200,000 years ago.

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-As an archaeologist, I'm so excited

-to be visiting this particular cave.

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-Since the incredible discovery,

-very few visitors are allowed here.

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-But we're honoured

-to have been permitted...

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-..to unlock the door

-that was put in place...

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-..after the National Museum

-of Wales archaeologists...

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-..completed their work in 1985.

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-Let's see what's here.

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-If you look carefully,

-what do you see here?

0:21:410:21:44

-Stones.

0:21:440:21:45

-Stones.

-

-Stones, yes.

0:21:450:21:46

-And clay.

0:21:460:21:48

-Does everything here look the same?

0:21:480:21:51

-The top is more rough and uneven.

0:21:510:21:56

-But further down,

-it's really smooth.

0:21:560:22:00

-That shows that they formed

-in different ways.

0:22:000:22:03

-You have material

-that flowed into this cave.

0:22:040:22:07

-Above that,

-stalagmites formed and grew.

0:22:080:22:12

-That was dated back

-to 220,000 years ago.

0:22:150:22:19

-This flowed in,

-then stalagmites grew.

0:22:190:22:23

-This filled the cave up to the

-opening through which we came in.

0:22:230:22:29

-Nothing came into the cave

-until about 80,000 years ago.

0:22:300:22:36

-Another flow then came in

-to leave the upper deposits.

0:22:370:22:42

-By dating this layer

-to 220,000 years ago...

0:22:420:22:47

-..the rocks beneath

-are clearly older.

0:22:470:22:50

-That's how they know how old

-the bones and stones there are.

0:22:500:22:55

-I think there is

-some awareness locally.

0:23:010:23:03

-But if you asked someone

-on the street in Denbigh...

0:23:040:23:07

-..it's quite possible

-that they'd be unaware...

0:23:070:23:11

-..that one of the most important

-archaeological finds in Wales...

0:23:110:23:16

-..was made a stone's throw away.

0:23:160:23:18

-Did you know a lot

-about these caves before today?

0:23:190:23:22

-I knew about the caves' existence...

0:23:230:23:25

-..and that they'd found

-the bones and the teeth here...

0:23:250:23:29

-..but I've never

-had the chance to visit.

0:23:290:23:32

-I'm so glad

-to have been able to come here...

0:23:320:23:35

-..to see somewhere so important

-as regards Welsh history...

0:23:350:23:40

-..our ancient history...

0:23:400:23:42

-..to see the site

-where these discoveries were made.

0:23:420:23:46

-I've been in lots of ancient caves.

0:23:550:23:58

-They're remarkable places.

0:23:580:24:00

-When we think about Welsh history...

0:24:010:24:03

-..the music and the literature...

0:24:030:24:06

-..our history as people...

0:24:070:24:09

-..there were people here hunting...

0:24:100:24:14

-..worrying...

0:24:150:24:16

-..laughing...

0:24:160:24:17

-..and living their lives

-near this cave...

0:24:180:24:22

-..far before that all began.

0:24:230:24:25

-.

0:24:260:24:27

-Subtitles

0:24:320:24:32

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:24:320:24:34

-We're in the scenic Vale of Clwyd...

0:24:360:24:40

-..on the trail of ghost stories,

-legends and historical remains.

0:24:400:24:45

-This particular vale

-is replete with stories.

0:24:460:24:50

-One family in particular

-has more stories than anyone.

0:24:500:24:54

-I'm a little north of Denbigh,

-at Lleweni Parc.

0:25:030:25:06

-It's a lovely place

-to walk and fish...

0:25:060:25:09

-..or to fly above the area

-in a glider.

0:25:090:25:12

-The gliders soar above the old home

-of the Salisbury family.

0:25:160:25:21

-They built these gardens

-almost 400 years ago.

0:25:210:25:25

-There's an old folk song

-called Ysbryd Dafydd Salisbury...

0:25:250:25:29

-..about one family member

-roaming on horseback...

0:25:290:25:32

-..in the middle of the night,

-moaning and groaning.

0:25:330:25:36

-There's also a tale about the ghost

-of a giant of a man...

0:25:360:25:40

-..roaming and carrying huge blocks

-of wood on his shoulders.

0:25:400:25:44

-Some connect that ghost

-with John Salisbury...

0:25:460:25:49

-..also known as Sion y Bodiau...

0:25:490:25:51

-..the same man that they say

-killed the dragon at Denbigh Castle.

0:25:510:25:56

-But John Salisbury

-was also a man of flesh and blood.

0:25:570:26:00

-He was a soldier and an MP...

0:26:000:26:03

-..and was also at one time

-Denbighshire's wealthiest man.

0:26:040:26:07

-With two thumbs on each hand,

-you might think he had it tough...

0:26:080:26:12

-..especially

-if you believe the story...

0:26:120:26:15

-..that he wrestled a lion

-just to please Elizabeth I.

0:26:150:26:19

-These are the Salisbury family's

-former stables, Lleweni Hall.

0:26:200:26:25

-From here, the family

-spread across the world.

0:26:250:26:29

-One of them was among the founders

-of the city of Halifax, Nova Scotia.

0:26:290:26:34

-Another was friends

-with William Shakespeare.

0:26:340:26:37

-Soldiers, poets, adventurers.

0:26:370:26:39

-But we shouldn't forget

-the women of the family.

0:26:400:26:43

-One settled in Llannefydd,

-where I'm heading now.

0:26:430:26:46

-The stories about her

-are a bit more credible.

0:26:470:26:50

-Well, just.

0:26:500:26:51

-As the main town of the Vale

-of Clwyd since the 13th century...

0:26:540:26:59

-..Ruthin has a tumultuous history.

0:26:590:27:02

-Welsh princes and English barons

-battled for this part of Wales.

0:27:020:27:06

-In 1400, Owain Glyndwr came here

-and set fire to the town.

0:27:090:27:14

-It's hard to find buildings

-that are older than that.

0:27:140:27:18

-But with Nantclwyd y Dre,

-we get relatively close.

0:27:180:27:22

-Built in 1435...

0:27:220:27:25

-..this is the oldest

-timber-framed townhouse in Wales.

0:27:250:27:30

-As you'd expect

-in such an old house...

0:27:320:27:34

-..there are layers upon layers

-of history here.

0:27:340:27:39

-Over the years, it has been home...

0:27:390:27:41

-..to solicitors, teachers,

-merchants and doctors...

0:27:420:27:45

-..as well as noblemen

-leading leisurely lives.

0:27:460:27:49

-Wherever you go in Ruthin...

0:27:510:27:53

-..the history of law and order

-follows you around.

0:27:530:27:56

-Ruthin is a peaceful town now...

0:27:560:27:59

-..but it wasn't

-in the time of Owain Glyndwr.

0:27:590:28:03

-After Glyndwr razed the town

-to the ground in 1400...

0:28:070:28:12

-..rebuilding work began.

0:28:120:28:15

-Thanks to research

-on Nantclwyd y Dre's oak timbers...

0:28:150:28:19

-..it's possible to date it

-to that exact period.

0:28:190:28:23

-What we're seeing here

-is the original house.

0:28:250:28:29

-It was only 30 years...

0:28:290:28:31

-..after Owain Glyndwr came

-and set the town on fire.

0:28:310:28:36

-He was doing battle

-with Reginald de Grey...

0:28:360:28:40

-..who lived in the town's castle.

0:28:400:28:43

-Was the house rebuilt then?

0:28:440:28:46

-We don't really know.

0:28:460:28:48

-There must have been

-something there.

0:28:480:28:51

-But that's the first house

-we know of.

0:28:510:28:53

-The first person to live here

-was Gronw ap Madog.

0:28:540:28:58

-A proper Welsh name.

0:28:590:29:00

-He married a woman called Suzanna,

-an Englishwoman.

0:29:010:29:05

-Reginald de Grey was getting rent

-of about two shillings for the land.

0:29:050:29:10

-Right.

0:29:100:29:11

-But when he found out that Suzanna

-was marrying a Welshman...

0:29:120:29:16

-..the rent went up

-to eight shillings.

0:29:160:29:19

-This area here

-is part of the back gardens.

0:29:190:29:24

-But this area behind us

-is something different.

0:29:240:29:27

-Yes, this was the lord's garden.

0:29:270:29:29

-Originally, this didn't belong

-to Nantclwyd y Dre.

0:29:300:29:33

-This garden belonged to the castle.

0:29:340:29:36

-The food for the castle

-was grown here.

0:29:360:29:40

-We're going back to the 1600s now.

0:29:410:29:44

-Nantclwyd rented the land

-from the castle.

0:29:440:29:49

-Almost a century passed

-before they could buy the land.

0:29:490:29:54

-Do we know

-who gardened here originally?

0:30:100:30:14

-Yes, we know the first gardener.

0:30:140:30:18

-A chap called Richard Peart.

0:30:180:30:22

-He was here for 30 years.

0:30:220:30:25

-He was the gardener

-of the lord at the castle.

0:30:250:30:28

-We get a lot of Americans

-visiting the garden.

0:30:290:30:34

-This is what I tell them

-about Richard Peart.

0:30:340:30:37

-We know he was here...

0:30:370:30:39

-..fifty years before Christopher

-Columbus left for the Americas.

0:30:390:30:43

-"Gee, that's kinda great!"

0:30:440:30:46

-They're happy to hear that.

0:30:470:30:49

-We think that this mound

-was used to site guns...

0:30:560:31:01

-..during the Civil War

-in the 1600s...

0:31:010:31:03

-..to fire towards the castle.

0:31:040:31:06

-What's this spot called?

0:31:070:31:09

-This is Cunning Green.

0:31:100:31:11

-From cwningen,

-the Welsh word for rabbit.

0:31:120:31:15

-If you stand here,

-you'll often see rabbits down there.

0:31:150:31:19

-They reckon that the castle

-used it as a rabbit warren.

0:31:190:31:24

-For food, you mean?

0:31:240:31:27

-For food, you mean?

-

-For food, and for their skins.

0:31:270:31:30

-It's remarkable

-that the name has survived.

0:31:300:31:34

-There are still links between

-this house and law and order.

0:31:350:31:41

-I know that judges lodged here

-three times a year, and so on.

0:31:410:31:45

-But you're an ex-policeman

-working in the garden.

0:31:450:31:49

-I was a policeman

-in Ruthin in 1984.

0:31:490:31:52

-Yes, there's still a link today.

0:31:530:31:56

-If you venture away from the towns

-into rural Vale of Clwyd...

0:32:000:32:04

-..and you'll be among the finest

-scenery Wales has to offer.

0:32:050:32:08

-The likes of Daniel Defoe, Beatrix

-Potter and William Wordsworth...

0:32:080:32:13

-..have all sung the area's praises.

0:32:140:32:16

-Yet, it still retains some secrets.

0:32:160:32:19

-This is Coed Cilygroeslwyd

-nature reserve.

0:32:190:32:25

-I've spent a lot of time here

-over the years...

0:32:260:32:29

-..and it's close to where I grew up.

0:32:290:32:32

-But the reserve

-is part of a wider woodland.

0:32:330:32:38

-Yes, extending from Pwll-glas

-to the town of Ruthin...

0:32:380:32:43

-..and known as Coed Marchan.

0:32:430:32:45

-It has an interesting history

-going back to the Middle Ages...

0:32:460:32:51

-..when it belonged to Ruthin Castle.

0:32:510:32:53

-It was used for hunting

-at that time.

0:32:530:32:57

-Then, later, there was a tannery...

0:32:580:33:02

-..in Mwrog Street in Ruthin.

0:33:020:33:05

-That industry needed tree bark.

0:33:060:33:09

-So, a lot of these trees

-were used at that time.

0:33:100:33:14

-Come the Industrial Revolution,

-there was a demand for charcoal.

0:33:140:33:18

-A great many trees

-were felled in Coed Marchan.

0:33:190:33:24

-But when demand for coal

-took over from charcoal...

0:33:250:33:29

-..places like Coed Marchan

-were left alone...

0:33:300:33:34

-..and the trees

-got a chance to grow again.

0:33:340:33:38

-But there's more to the reserve

-than trees.

0:33:410:33:44

-We're coming out of the darkness

-now, Heledd...

0:33:510:33:55

-..to the only part of the reserve

-that isn't woodland, the quarry.

0:33:550:33:59

-It's only a small quarry...

0:34:000:34:02

-..and it hasn't been worked

-for a great many years.

0:34:020:34:07

-As a result, the vegetation

-has had a chance to flourish.

0:34:070:34:12

-There are interesting plants here...

0:34:120:34:17

-..some of them rarer than others.

0:34:170:34:19

-There's one very special plant here.

0:34:270:34:30

-It's very rare.

0:34:300:34:32

-This is the only site in Wales

-where it grows.

0:34:320:34:37

-That one there?

0:34:370:34:39

-Yes, it's the limestone woundwort.

0:34:400:34:42

-As the name suggests,

-it only grows on limestone soil.

0:34:420:34:48

-It's a member of the mint family.

0:34:480:34:51

-You can tell,

-the leaves are similar.

0:34:510:34:54

-This is very rare,

-confined to this site in Wales...

0:34:540:34:59

-..and one other site in England.

0:35:000:35:03

-That's it, for the whole of Britain.

0:35:030:35:05

-And only here in Wales?

0:35:050:35:06

-And only here in Wales?

-

-Yes.

0:35:060:35:07

-Why is it so happy here?

0:35:080:35:10

-Why is it so happy here?

-

-No-one is very sure.

0:35:100:35:12

-One of the wonders of nature.

0:35:120:35:14

-One of the wonders of nature.

-

-Yes, a wonder and a mystery.

0:35:140:35:16

-.

0:35:260:35:27

-Subtitles

0:35:340:35:34

-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

0:35:340:35:36

-More tales of law and order lie

-in the shadow of St Peter's tower.

0:35:370:35:41

-The town's buildings seem

-more than happy to point them out.

0:35:410:35:46

-If you come to Ruthin,

-you'll see the old courthouse.

0:35:460:35:49

-Every criminal had to face it

-at one time or another.

0:35:500:35:54

-The last man to be executed

-on the square, Charles Meehan...

0:35:540:35:59

-..was hanged from a beam

-on this building in 1679...

0:35:590:36:03

-..for daring to be a Catholic

-at a time when that was illegal.

0:36:030:36:08

-Also on the square is Maen Huail.

0:36:110:36:13

-It's said that on this stone,

-Huail, son of Caw...

0:36:140:36:17

-..was beheaded by King Arthur.

0:36:180:36:20

-His crime was making fun

-of Arthur's dancing.

0:36:210:36:25

-I don't recall that story

-in any film.

0:36:260:36:28

-But there is one famous building

-to do with law and order here.

0:36:280:36:34

-This is now

-the oldest building on the site.

0:36:340:36:37

-There's been a prison here

-since 1654.

0:36:370:36:40

-But this one was built in 1775.

0:36:410:36:45

-It doesn't look

-like a prison, does it?

0:36:450:36:48

-Back then, the regime

-was completely different.

0:36:490:36:53

-People were confined temporarily

-for fairly short periods.

0:36:540:36:58

-Punishments were physical.

0:36:590:37:01

-We could transport prisoners

-overseas at that time.

0:37:010:37:04

-The only longer-term inmates

-were debtors, those who owed money.

0:37:050:37:09

-But in 1866, a new wing was built...

0:37:100:37:14

-..based on Pentonville prison.

0:37:140:37:16

-And that's what this is?

0:37:170:37:19

-This looks more like

-my idea of a prison.

0:37:190:37:22

-We've inherited the image

-of a prison from Pentonville.

0:37:220:37:26

-It was designed

-to hold 520 prisoners...

0:37:300:37:33

-..in cells

-measuring 13 feet by seven.

0:37:330:37:37

-The design was such a success...

0:37:370:37:40

-..that 54 other prisons

-based on Pentonville were built.

0:37:400:37:44

-This is what you expect

-from a prison...

0:37:440:37:47

-..having seen Porridge

-and various TV programmes.

0:37:470:37:51

-We've inherited that image from

-places like this and Pentonville.

0:37:520:37:57

-Cells all around us,

-one in each cell.

0:37:570:38:01

-The people of Denbighshire

-wrote to Pentonville...

0:38:010:38:05

-..to ask for a copy of their design,

-then they adapted them.

0:38:050:38:10

-Is it the same size as Pentonville?

0:38:110:38:12

-Is it the same size as Pentonville?

-

-No, it's smaller.

0:38:120:38:14

-A fifth of Pentonville, in a way.

0:38:150:38:17

-Pentonville is derived from

-the prefix penta, meaning five.

0:38:170:38:21

-Ruthin is just the one wing,

-which is all that was needed.

0:38:210:38:26

-So, this should be Monoville!

0:38:260:38:28

-Outside the 18-inch thick walls...

0:38:430:38:46

-..there are darker signs

-of the prison's history...

0:38:460:38:50

-..if you know where to look.

0:38:510:38:53

-One of the stones in the wall behind

-me is different from the others.

0:38:550:39:00

-It dates back to 1903.

0:39:000:39:04

-I know that because behind it

-is the condemned cell...

0:39:040:39:08

-..where they kept William Hughes,

-the only man to be hanged here.

0:39:080:39:13

-They didn't have

-a designated condemned cell...

0:39:130:39:17

-..so they had to adapt one.

0:39:170:39:20

-William Hughes had killed his wife.

0:39:200:39:22

-It was more or less a process.

0:39:230:39:25

-So, there was an opening there.

0:39:260:39:28

-Yes, they made a hole in the wall

-through to William Hughes' cell.

0:39:290:39:33

-He just stepped out of the cell

-and was hanged that morning.

0:39:340:39:39

-If it wasn't for that stone,

-you wouldn't know.

0:39:390:39:42

-I've made my way to Llannefydd,

-not far from Llaeth y Llan farm.

0:39:540:39:58

-But that farm there, Berain...

0:39:580:40:00

-..was the home of Katherine

-of Berain in the 16th century.

0:40:000:40:04

-Her story is worth telling.

0:40:040:40:07

-The parts that are true...

0:40:070:40:09

-..and the parts that aren't.

0:40:100:40:12

-Katherine married four times.

0:40:150:40:17

-That didn't happen often in her day.

0:40:170:40:20

-Her first marriage ended after

-nine years on her husband's death.

0:40:210:40:26

-One story has it that she had

-one proposal of marriage...

0:40:260:40:30

-..on the way into the funeral

-and another on the way out.

0:40:300:40:34

-Quite a woman.

0:40:340:40:35

-Sadly, the story's not true.

0:40:370:40:39

-But why spoil a good story

-with the facts?

0:40:400:40:44

-Her second husband

-was Richard Clough.

0:40:460:40:49

-There are a few tales about him too.

0:40:490:40:52

-Some said that he was a spy

-for Elizabeth I.

0:40:520:40:56

-Others claimed that he answered

-to someone more sinister.

0:40:570:41:01

-It's said that Katherine peered

-through the keyhole one night...

0:41:040:41:08

-..and saw him chatting

-at midnight, with the Devil.

0:41:080:41:12

-A little later, Richard Clough

-died suddenly while in Germany.

0:41:130:41:18

-Or did the Devil take him?

0:41:180:41:20

-Katherine married two more times.

0:41:220:41:24

-Through it all, and seeing

-her son Thomas executed...

0:41:240:41:28

-..for attempting

-to kill Elizabeth I...

0:41:280:41:31

-..she stayed true to the area.

0:41:320:41:34

-Having patronized dozens

-of poets and artists...

0:41:340:41:39

-..it's easy to see how she won

-the soubriquet "Mother of Wales."

0:41:390:41:43

-She's buried in an unmarked grave

-somewhere here at Llannefydd church.

0:41:430:41:48

-Only the stories remain.

0:41:480:41:50

-South of Ruthin

-is Craig-adwy-wynt reserve.

0:41:540:41:59

-A Site of Special

-Scientific Interest...

0:42:000:42:03

-..it's home

-to an increasingly rare creature.

0:42:030:42:06

-So, this area is

-called Craig-adwy-wynt.

0:42:070:42:10

-Yes.

0:42:110:42:12

-It's quite a substantial area.

0:42:120:42:15

-It's limestone once again...

0:42:170:42:19

-..but this end of the rock

-has been designated as a reserve...

0:42:190:42:24

-..specifically for butterflies.

0:42:240:42:27

-I don't know about you,

-but when I was younger...

0:42:270:42:31

-..it felt as if there were

-many more species around.

0:42:310:42:35

-There are some

-that have always been rare.

0:42:350:42:39

-But some that were considered

-to be common a generation ago...

0:42:390:42:43

-..have become much scarcer.

0:42:440:42:47

-One species that you will see

-in this area, Heledd...

0:42:480:42:51

-..is the pearl-bordered fritillary.

0:42:520:42:56

-There's one over there, actually.

0:42:560:42:59

-It's a pretty butterfly.

0:43:000:43:02

-The fritillary family

-are all attractive.

0:43:020:43:06

-An orange and black pattern.

0:43:060:43:09

-They really are attractive.

0:43:090:43:11

-We've been lucky enough

-to see one today.

0:43:110:43:14

-Why do they like this place?

0:43:140:43:17

-What attracts them

-here in particular?

0:43:180:43:20

-They lay their eggs

-on violet plants.

0:43:200:43:24

-The caterpillars

-also feed on violets.

0:43:250:43:28

-Violets are common enough.

0:43:280:43:31

-It's a combination

-of available food and the site.

0:43:320:43:36

-It's an open aspect,

-with different plants.

0:43:360:43:40

-It's perfect for them.

0:43:420:43:44

-How do you see the future

-for butterflies?

0:43:460:43:50

-There are numerous species

-of butterfly.

0:43:510:43:56

-Some are very common,

-and seen in a variety of habitats.

0:43:560:44:02

-Others are seen

-in very specific habitats.

0:44:020:44:07

-Their needs are specific.

0:44:070:44:10

-All we can do is provide

-the best conditions for them...

0:44:100:44:15

-..as far as habitats

-are concerned...

0:44:150:44:18

-..and make sure that the plants

-on which they rely are available.

0:44:180:44:23

-But there are

-wider concerns as well.

0:44:240:44:27

-Matters like global warming.

0:44:270:44:29

-No-one knows for sure

-how such a thing...

0:44:290:44:32

-..can affect small creatures

-like the pearl-bordered fritillary.

0:44:330:44:38

-Ruthin Gaol

-has been closed since 1916.

0:44:530:44:56

-But stories about one prisoner

-are still told by local people.

0:44:570:45:01

-I'm honoured to visit his cell.

0:45:020:45:05

-We're on the ground floor

-of the Pentonville block.

0:45:050:45:09

-The regime banned prisoners

-from talking to each other at all.

0:45:100:45:15

-There was a system in place...

0:45:150:45:17

-..to enable those in a cell

-to contact staff.

0:45:170:45:21

-A system of wires

-that ran to every cell.

0:45:210:45:24

-If you required attention,

-you pulled a string in the cell.

0:45:240:45:28

-A flag or something was raised...

0:45:290:45:32

-..and the man in charge

-of each floor of the wing...

0:45:320:45:36

-..would come to see what was wrong.

0:45:360:45:39

-We'll go into this cell.

0:45:440:45:46

-They're all the same.

0:45:460:45:48

-Coch Bach y Bala would have escaped

-from a cell such as this.

0:45:480:45:53

-Have you heard of Coch Bach y Bala?

0:45:540:45:55

-Have you heard of Coch Bach y Bala?

-

-I have heard the name.

0:45:550:45:57

-He's our most infamous prisoner,

-and he escaped from here twice.

0:45:570:46:02

-Twice?

0:46:020:46:03

-He was famous for escaping

-from places like this.

0:46:040:46:07

-Here's his mugshot.

0:46:070:46:10

-Here's his mugshot.

-

-It's a proper mugshot too.

0:46:100:46:12

-He was a serial escaper.

0:46:130:46:15

-He got out of here

-by digging a hole in the wall.

0:46:150:46:20

-He'd already fashioned a rope

-out of bedlinen.

0:46:210:46:25

-Out he went, down to the ground...

0:46:250:46:29

-..then up again,

-and he ran around the wall.

0:46:290:46:32

-He jumped off the wall into

-a haystack on the adjacent farm...

0:46:320:46:37

-..then into woodland

-near Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd.

0:46:380:46:43

-Eventually, he was found...

0:46:430:46:46

-..by a gentleman

-called Reginald Jones-Bateman.

0:46:470:46:50

-He shot him in the leg.

0:46:500:46:52

-Coch Bach had threatened him

-with a metal object in his belt.

0:46:540:46:59

-Jones-Bateman thought

-it was a revolver and shot him.

0:46:590:47:02

-Dead?

0:47:030:47:04

-Dead?

-

-He died of shock and loss of blood.

0:47:040:47:08

-And that was the end of him.

-What an interesting story.

0:47:080:47:13

-Whether in historic buildings,

-in caves or in the open air...

0:47:240:47:29

-..there are

-striking stories everywhere.

0:47:300:47:33

-You know you're in

-a very special part of the country.

0:47:330:47:37

-People were treading the soil here

-250,000 years ago.

0:47:380:47:43

-New industries are also

-taking root in the soil here.

0:47:440:47:49

-The past, the present

-and the future combine...

0:47:490:47:53

-..and each of them

-shown the same respect.

0:47:530:47:56

-That's what turns a place

-into a habitat.

0:47:570:48:00

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