Pennod 1 Gwanas i Gbara

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-This is the story of my return

-to a village in Nigeria...

-..where I taught for two years

-back in the mid-1980s.

-The village is called Gbara.

-It's rural, ancient, unique

-and difficult to reach.

-My story is told in two programmes.

-The journey to the remote place.

-A way of life that's timeless.

-Incredible honorary celebrations.

-Laughter and tears

-as I face up to my past.

-888

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-I'm back here in Nigeria...

-..for the first time

-in a quarter of a century.

-This is Abuja,

-the capital city of Nigeria.

-This is where I start

-my journey to Gbara...

-..where I was a teacher

-for two years.

-Why am I here?

-I'd like to meet my old pupils.

-I want to see if it's changed.

-Above all, I've been wanting

-to show it to people...

-..and now I can share it with you.

-Nigeria has been described

-as dangerous...

-..dirty, cruel, noisy and violent.

-Only a masochist would holiday here.

-Kidnaps and murders are common,

-and armed gangs are everywhere.

-But I know differently, or I ought

-to know, having lived here.

-There aren't nicer people

-than those in Nigeria.

-Voluntary Service Overseas - VSO...

-..sent me here in 1984.

-I had no choice where I was sent.

-Katie and I were sent to Nigeria

-for two years.

-That's a very long time

-for a 22-year-old from Dolgellau.

-Why did I go?

-I was adventurous

-and always had wanderlust.

-With college days behind me...

-..marriage and mortgage

-weren't a priority.

-Instead, I was feasted upon by

-mosquitoes in the village of Gbara.

-Since then,

-I've had a varied career...

-..as an author, to name but one.

-I've seen all seven continents,

-as a broadcaster.

-Gbara spurred me on

-to be serious about writing.

-I published my diary...

-..and was awarded the Crown

-at the Urdd Eisteddfod...

-..for a work inspired totally

-by my experiences in Gbara.

-As it's now apparently

-such a dangerous country...

-..I've engaged the help

-of a local guide.

-This is Victor, from Lagos.

-I arranged to meet up with him

-in a hotel in the capital, Abuja.

-He says we'll need to travel

-through Niger state...

-..via Minna and Bida...

-..before reaching somewhere

-too small to be on the map - Gbara.

-I don't know who I'll be seeing.

-Victor wants to surprise me.

-That's fine, and the prospect

-of the journey excites me.

-Yet, the first of his surprises

-hits me like a mallet.

-I met a couple of people...

-..who have some messages for you,

-on video.

-OK.

-OK.

-

-Hold your breath.

-So.

-Finally, we leave our secure hotel

-to see the real Nigeria...

-..endless countryside

-and cassava fields.

-It's enlivened

-by occasional hustle and bustle.

-Roads are bad, the car's a wreck

-and the mosquitoes are alert.

-I now sense a change.

-The landscape's changing.

-I feel as though I'm going home.

-We're now in Niger state,

-one of the 36 states of Nigeria.

-It's a really vast country.

-Niger state is the largest of all

-the states and Minna is its capital.

-Nigeria is home

-to over 140 million people.

-That's 20% of Africa's population

-and it continues to grow.

-Minna was quite large in the 1980s

-but now I'm amazed by its size.

-The market hasn't changed at all.

-It's still a throbbing melting pot

-of colours, voices, buying, selling.

-Different aromas fill the air.

-Suddenly, amidst the din,

-I hear someone calling my name.

-Miss Bethan!

-Hello, Musa.

-This is Musa A Baba.

-You've grown!

-I'm face to face, well, almost...

-..with the boy who's now a giant.

-Musa A Baba

-is the first person from Gbara...

-..I've met

-in a quarter of a century.

-He was 14 years old when I last

-saw him and only this tall.

-You're now wearing glasses too!

-Musa looked after our cats.

-He kept me safe once...

-..when some teachers were drunk.

-"You are fine now, Miss Bethan,

-but you should lock your door."

-"Goodnight, goodbye,

-Allah protect you."

-He's now a nurse, training

-for further qualifications.

-He's invited me to his family home,

-in a compound on the edge of town.

-Hello.

-Pleased to meet you.

-I'm in Musa's home now,

-they're all happy.

-It's an honour

-when a guest visits their home.

-So we're here...

-..and I've met his wife,

-who speaks perfect English.

-They have three lovely children.

-We gave them gifts from Wales,

-bubbles and books.

-They seemed to enjoy them.

-That's a good one.

-She's a nice woman. She really

-impacts more in our knowledge.

-In our school then,

-we don't have libraries.

-She established the library.

-She was very kind and is generous.

-I'm like a squirrel. I never throw

-anything away, especially letters.

-You don't have a copy, do you?

-I don't have a copy.

-I thought you'd like to see it.

-"I miss you so much,

-sometimes I do dream with you.

-"May I say long life and prosperity

-to you and your family.

-"I wish you all best wishes."

-It's great to see Musa

-and his family.

-I'm glad to see he's done so well.

-I want to see more former pupils,

-and to proceed to Gbara.

-She's a person that after 25 years

-of her departure still remembers.

-In fact, it's great,

-it's very great.

-Then came a surprise

-not set up by Victor.

-The venue was, of all places,

-a fast food outlet.

-Musa wanted me to see Mr Bigg's.

-It's a McDonalds type of place.

-It shows how Nigeria's changed -

-"What do you think of this?"

-And I go, "Mmmm." I'm not keen

-on these places at home, actually.

-I was munching my pepe chicken.

-Someone came in and greeted Musa.

-We looked at each other

-and I gestured like this.

-I couldn't recall his name -

-he's Mohammed, a popular name...

-..but I certainly

-remembered his face.

-I never had a photo of Ali Mohammed.

-However, his distinctive face

-had stayed in my memory.

-He had intelligent eyes

-and the Nupe marks on his cheeks.

-The boys all had old white shirts

-and shorts.

-Having footwear was a bonus.

-They'd walk many, many miles

-to be educated by us.

-That's how you remember me.

-That's how you remember me.

-

-Exactly, exactly, exactly.

-Miss Bethan, I put the hair down,

-now I look more like me.

-How do I say see you soon?

-Sai ka' degi?

-Sai ka' degi.

-Drive safely.

-Going the wrong way. Oh!

-Not everybody could afford that car.

-I'm invited to his home tonight.

-I can't wait to find out

-how much of a Mr Big he is!

-There's one who's done well,

-if that's how you measure success.

-But I couldn't remember his name!

-CHUCKLES

-I kept a diary in primary school.

-Ever since then,

-I've kept one regularly most years.

-I'd write a full page every day.

-Occasionally, nothing much happens.

-This is the diary

-that I took with me to Gbara.

-1984, and I have two others,

-both very full.

-As I said in my foreword

-to Dyddiadur Gbara (Gbara Diary)...

-..I kept detailed diaries,

-now my treasured possessions.

-I'd like to share extracts

-with you.

-You may learn about these people

-and their way of life.

-Who's to say

-that our lifestyle is superior?

-I've brought my 1984 diary with me.

-It'll remind me of the person I was,

-and of Nigeria then.

-Reproducing the diary wasn't enough.

-The contents were emotional.

-Descriptive passages were lacking,

-but I found these in my letters.

-Between both sources, there emerges

-a more balanced picture.

-How I'd have survived

-without my diary...

-..I don't know - it was my mate.

-I guess my diary

-is still my best friend.

-.

-888

-888

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-888

-I'm journeying through Nigeria

-to the small village of Gbara.

-I was a VSO teacher there

-25 years ago.

-Today, we leave Minna for Bida,

-a three-hour trip.

-However,

-it isn't going according to plan.

-Last night was rather eventful.

-Can you see our old van over there?

-When our driver started it,

-it went up in flames.

-He was upset and in tears

-but he's OK now.

-Today we have another bus

-in similar condition.

-I was also rudely awoken at 4.00am

-by the sound of breaking glass.

-There'd been an attempted burglary

-in the room next door to me.

-They actually caught the burglar.

-It may explain my bleary eyes.

-Something happens all the time.

-Every so often,

-cars are stopped by police.

-Sometimes they let them pass

-through, sometimes not.

-They're stopping us.

-Who's the driver?

-Can I see your boot?

-He wants to check the back.

-He'll check

-that we have no illegal cargo.

-OK?

-The roads have large potholes...

-..but they're much improved

-since the 1980s.

-There's quite a large town there.

-The driver said it was Bida,

-and I could hardly believe it.

-If it is Bida, it's grown.

-I don't remember this at all.

-As I approach Bida,

-and the Nupe people, I'm excited.

-I hear the Nupe language,

-and the Nupe people are all around.

-In spite of the stories of danger

-and armed policemen...

-..these warm and generous people

-haven't changed at all.

-It may be hazardous down south...

-..but here, where the Emir,

-the Nupe king, is the boss...

-..I feel perfectly safe,

-almost at home.

-I see a man with a T-shirt

-from The White Lion, Llantwit Major!

-Where did you get this shirt,

-do you know?

-I bought it from the market, yes.

-Llantwit Major is in my country.

-They are from England.

-They are from England.

-

-No, no, Wales.

-The White Lion is a pub.

-White Lion, OK.

-Where they drink beer.

-Take care of this shirt,

-it's important.

-Yes, I do take care of it.

-It's the people who make the place

-so remarkable.

-Honestly, wherever you go,

-they shout, "Welcome, welcome."

-It's the first thing they say

-to a white face or any stranger...

-.."Welcome,"

-not just "Hi, how are you?"

-It'd be nice if we did the same.

-The Nupe are in the majority here.

-They're colourful and lively people.

-Their characteristic facial marks

-show their family origins.

-The Emir, or Etsu Nupe,

-is their chief.

-In the 1980s, I saw him for myself

-in a sala - a royal procession.

-It was all horses and fanfares.

-I only saw him from afar.

-Life could be quite hard in Gbara.

-There were no shops

-or electricity...

-..only rats, insects

-and stifling heat.

-Katie and I came to Bida

-most weekends.

-We'd meet ex-pats,

-and collect messages from home.

-This was always our first stop,

-the post office.

-It was the only link with home.

-Normally, there'd be a pile of mail

-for Katie...

-..but little or nothing for me.

-Nowadays, gap year students

-can contact home by text or email.

-There were no such services

-in my day.

-Letters to Wales were three weeks

-in transit, and vice versa.

-Letters were all-important to me.

-It was the only way to communicate,

-as there was no telephone in Bida.

-Minna had one expensive telephone.

-Over several months,

-the man here and I became friends.

-I was a regular visitor.

-Sometimes, he'd refuse to give me

-my letters unless I gave him a tip.

-I wasn't prepared to do that.

-I brought him bananas instead.

-Then he was happy

-to hand over my letters.

-It's the Nigerian mindset.

-People don't get anywhere

-by making demands.

-By playing the game or making

-a joke of it, you'll be fine.

-Tonight, after our earlier

-chance meeting at Mr Bigg's...

-..I'm visiting Ali Mohammed.

-You're highly welcome.

-Oh, my word.

-You're highly welcome.

-You're highly welcome.

-

-Thank you.

-Your life has changed.

-I thank God.

-I thank God.

-

-From when I remember...

-A quiet, clever boy,

-who sat next to the head boy.

-That was Ali Mohammed in school.

-He wasn't top of the class

-in English, as I recall...

-..but he excelled at mathematics.

-He's now head finance officer

-for the Niger state government.

-He's gone to fetch the family,

-to introduce everyone to me.

-I know already, he's told me,

-that he has two wives.

-As he's quite young, that shows

-he's done exceedingly well.

-The house suggests that too.

-They lived in a small mud hut

-when in Gbara.

-Look over there - that television

-is much better than mine.

-I don't know if I was an influence.

-I'd like to think I might have been.

-He appears genuinely

-very, very pleased that I'm here.

-As well as his two wives

-and eight children...

-..he's adopted five other children.

-He wants to help as best he can,

-as he has the financial resources.

-Because you have a nice house,

-you can adopt.

-I adopt, and I help them,

-to train them for a good future.

-Yes, what a man.

-He's not only

-got himself out of poverty...

-..but other people's children too.

-Are you proud of this man, yeah?

-Yes.

-I'm proud too.

-Suddenly, he went to the kitchen

-for another surprise.

-I don't know what's happening.

-Head boy!

-LAUGHTER

-This is Isah.

-He's a very likeable boy

-and was a hard-working pupil.

-He's now a teacher.

-Are you surprised?

-Are you surprised?

-

-I am, I am, I am. Gosh!

-You live in Bida too.

-Goodness me.

-You have three wives.

-You have three wives.

-

-Yes.

-No? Two.

-LAUGHTER

-Gosh, you've both done so well.

-It's not too late for me now

-to show you all my achievements.

-Academic achievements.

-So we taught you well?

-So we taught you well?

-

-Yes.

-I thought my two years there

-hadn't helped them much.

-Maybe, after all,

-I was some help to them.

-Seeing Ali and Isah again is lovely.

-I'm glad they've done so well.

-Despite an electricity power cut...

-..Ali's still keen to show me

-all his academic certificates.

-Yes, these have succeeded.

-What of the others at Gbara?

-I'll soon be finding out.

-See you in another 25 years.

-Little did I guess

-I'd see them again much sooner.

-I hope to fulfil it, that one day

-you'll see me at your compound.

-You're welcome to my compound.

-They've done remarkably well.

-Gbara, as you'll see, is so remote.

-The teachers sent there,

-by and large, were being penalized.

-It's unbelievable...

-..that they've come from that

-to reach this level here.

-Ali, goodness me, has a Master's.

-He says he'll visit me in Wales.

-If any of them will, it'll be him.

-He'll be able to afford it.

-I hope my house

-doesn't disappoint him.

-Katie and I also called often

-at the Catholic church in Bida.

-No, not for the reason

-you might be thinking.

-We would come here for some fun.

-We'd play cards with Father Con

-and Sisters Mary and Cleophas.

-I'm back here, and I'm meeting

-the newly-appointed priest.

-So it's only your second day here.

-Yes, I came on Saturday evening.

-Yesterday was my first day,

-and today's my second.

-You don't remember

-the priests who were here before.

-I would remember some of them.

-I know Father Con lived here.

-Ah, you know Father Con.

-Ah, you know Father Con.

-

-I know Father Con very well.

-Can you give me his number?

-His email, anything!

-His email, anything!

-

-I can give you his phone number.

-Leave your number

-and I can get back to you.

-Why not leave him a message?

-Hello, Father Con,

-this is a blast from the past.

-I don't know if you remember me.

-Do you remember Bethan

-who was in Gbara from 1984 to 1986?

-I used to play bridge with you

-and Sister Mary and Sister Cleophas.

-I brought you Black Label whisky,

-duty free, back from Wales.

-I'm here in Bida,

-in front of the church.

-The penny's just dropped for me.

-I started to cry inside the church.

-I'd only been inside once before.

-It was the link, no doubt...

-..with Father Con,

-who was the priest there...

-..Sister Mary and Sister Cleophas,

-all three from Ireland.

-They were very important to me.

-They were such fun to be with,

-when I'd had a bad week.

-You know... oh... a week full of...

-..trials and tribulations...

-..frustrated

-with the school children...

-..no chalk, no letters for me.

-Sister Mary was a character.

-"There you go, what a woman."

-Sister Cleophas was 86.

-She often asked,

-"Would you like a cup of tea?"

-Father Con smoked, enjoyed a whisky

-and joked all the time.

-Also, most importantly...

-..was the time

-when I fell very seriously ill.

-I thought I was dying.

-I was far away from here.

-I was stuck there by myself.

-I was in the middle of nowhere,

-leaning and sliding against a tree.

-I was going to faint or something.

-I recall thinking to myself,

-"I'm going to die here."

-"If I just faint here - oh, my God."

-By some good fortune...

-..a nice car drove up and stopped

-then the driver looked at me.

-He was a Nigerian - a priest.

-He asked me if I was ill.

-I said I was going to Bida.

-He knew Sister Mary

-and Sister Cleophas.

-He brought me to their house.

-I recall walking into the kitchen.

-They both stared at me.

-"Bethan, what are you doing here?"

-"I'm not very well," I said

-and I crashed to the floor.

-Apparently, I fell flat on my face.

-Somehow, they carried me upstairs

-and I stayed there for a week.

-I dreamt,

-spoke gibberish and perspired.

-I had those hot and cold flushes.

-Malaria was a possibility

-but I never found out what it was.

-I received some treatment or other.

-I said some very strange things

-to Sister Cleophas, the 86-year-old.

-She never revealed what exactly!

-I blush when thinking about it.

-GIGGLES

-That's what this place brings back.

-.

-888

-888

-

-888

-I'm now in the nearest large town

-to my old haunt, Gbara village.

-It's been an emotional trip so far.

-There have been surprises

-and friendly faces from the past.

-Isah's taking me to see Gogo.

-She was the girl you saw on tape.

-So I'm tearful already.

-Gogo?

-Gogo.

-Thank you,

-welcome, welcome, welcome.

-You've not changed.

-Tears flow as I recall

-this lovely little girl.

-She sat in the front of the class.

-Girls don't have the freedom

-that we do.

-They were rather quiet and shy...

-..apart from Gogo,

-who laughed and smiled constantly.

-So, in your family,

-your husband, you, four children?

-Six children!

-How many people sleep in this room?

-Six people.

-Six people.

-

-Six people, ah. Right, OK.

-Six sleep here, OK.

-Would you like to see a photo?

-Can you see yourself?

-You haven't changed much though.

-You were always smiling.

-LAUGHTER

-Gogo and her friends

-would often call at my house.

-They loved my old magazines,

-such as Cosmopolitan.

-Girls are the same the world over!

-She shows me her kitchen.

-It looks poor by our standards,

-I know.

-It's a typical town house.

-Her husband is a teacher.

-There's medicine on the boil

-as she's not well.

-Nupe folk use traditional medicines.

-They do work sometimes!

-Another favourite,

-her friend Fatima, is absent.

-She was a lovely girl, really shy.

-She died of an unknown illness.

-Yes, life here remains fragile.

-The greatest impact on women

-since I was here, is Sharia law.

-But when the hijab is discarded,

-I see again the young girl.

-She's wearing a colourful,

-traditional dress.

-Here, men may have

-as many as four wives...

-..so I ask about husband sharing.

-Your husband has only one wife.

-Do you think maybe

-he will take a second wife?

-You prefer to have your husband

-to you, only you.

-LAUGHTER

-Yes.

-LAUGHTER

-Gogo was ever the honest one!

-Her English is so good, considering

-her education stopped when I left.

-I wonder what might she have

-achieved had she stayed at school.

-I'll see her again, for sure.

-OK, be good.

-Don't cry now.

-It has amazed me.

-It's the same wherever I go here.

-They're showing me such respect.

-It's a matter of honour.

-It's as though I was a princess.

-It's rather scary, although

-perhaps I should have expected this.

-With the Nigerian way of life,

-one never can tell.

-I'm chuffed, of course.

-I sense that the greatest reception

-lies ahead.

-We're on our way

-but, as ever, I have no idea where.

-I suspect that Victor enjoys

-keeping me in the dark.

-A girl can only tolerate

-so many surprises.

-I'm also desperate for a wee!

-I've seen a sign for a college.

-I'm guessing now, OK, hmm,

-that this may involve an old pupil.

-Perhaps he's high up in the college,

-a lecturer or even the principal!

-Perhaps he's just the cleaner.

-I don't know, but...

-I'm right, aren't I?

-Something like that.

-Sorry, that was Welsh!

-I ought to have guessed when Victor

-changed his shirt and had a haircut.

-Hello, my two ex-pupils!

-Look who's here, all dressed up.

-Ali and Isah

-are both in on the plot.

-You're making me nervous.

-I didn't want to come here.

-I think we're at the home

-of a very important person.

-He's really important, OK?

-I almost swore, he's that important!

-Oh... and I want a wee.

-Do you remember me saying

-about seeing the Emir from afar?

-Well, the current Emir

-has invited me to his palace.

-That's why I'm nervous.

-I'm not often in royal company.

-Victor's explanation doesn't help.

-All the kingdoms and chieftains

-come under the Emirate.

-We're going to meet the most

-important traditional ruler...

-..in the whole of the Nupe kingdom.

-I'm here to meet the most

-important man I've ever met.

-I've had no time to prepare.

-A speech is expected, guaranteed.

-Ali introduces me.

-He goes over the top, of course.

-Stand up.

-APPLAUSE

-Thank you.

-Sit down? OK.

-This is an enormous honour.

-My former pupils, who are themselves

-quite important, were nervous.

-I was definitely very nervous,

-but what an honour and a privilege.

-I still remember some Nupe.

-Actually,

-I was in Gbara for two years.

-I am looking forward so much

-to returning to Gbara to see more.

-With my legs trembling, I shut up

-and presented him with a gift.

-Thanks to the others for bringing

-the gifts, for I'd brought nothing.

-Can I give it to you? Yes?

-It's the flag of Wales.

-That's our country.

-The dragon. It's a very pretty flag.

-So, OK. Thank you.

-This was a special honour.

-I didn't want to say or do

-the wrong thing.

-I needn't have worried.

-He was a very affable gentleman.

-It was noisy, but he thanked me for

-my two years of service in Gbara.

-I feel so humble.

-They placed such emphasis

-on what I did.

-He spoke about the sort of life

-I'd given up.

-He meant home comforts,

-all the luxuries we have at home.

-I did that to be with the mosquitoes

-and without water in Gbara.

-That said, I was enjoying myself

-because it was a great adventure.

-I feel a bit of a fraud.

-But, no.

-I deserve this.

-.

-888

-888

-

-888

-I'm finally on the final and hardest

-leg of the journey to Gbara.

-We could have canoed the river,

-and hiked four muddy miles.

-Due to the equipment we have, we

-must go the long way round, by road.

-A Land Rover or tractor

-would have been handy.

-The tarmac's disappeared

-and our convoy of crocks is slow.

-Mile by mile, from bridge to bridge,

-we travel for hours.

-In an hour or so, I'll be in Gbara.

-My stomach's up here

-and I feel sick.

-I'm nervous.

-Why? Because it'll be carnival time.

-Once I knew there was a chance

-to return to Nigeria and Gbara...

-..I took no notice whatsoever...

-..of press reports of danger,

-and people warning me against it.

-"You shouldn't go - oh, gosh, no."

-Absolute rubbish! I knew.

-I took it all in

-with a ton of salt.

-I thought, "You don't really know."

-And...

-..even if they'd told me,

-"No, you can't go now"...

-..I'd have b****y well come anyway.

-In a beautifully setting, on the

-fertile banks of the river Kaduna...

-..where it meets the river Niger,

-is the small village of Gbara.

-The river

-is the heart of the village.

-Fishermen rely on it

-and so do the crops.

-It's hot here all year round.

-It's a dusty and humid place.

-It's one of the prettiest villages

-in this part of West Africa.

-Though not on the map,

-it is of importance historically.

-It's the ancient cradle

-of the Nupe people.

-There is no tap water,

-no electricity or grand buildings.

-There are only mud huts,

-stalls and the school.

-I taught children

-aged between 10 and 15.

-With over 500 languages in Nigeria,

-English is the official language.

-Nupe is the language of the home

-and the street in this region.

-The children were very keen

-to learn English.

-I remember the cute faces in class

-and everyone listening intently.

-They understood

-very little at the outset...

-..but class

-was always a place to have fun.

-I arrive at Government

-Day Secondary School, Gbara...

-..for the first time

-in over 20 years.

-Here, waiting for me, are all

-the Gbara people, young and old.

-They include my former pupils

-who have travelled here from afar.

-My ex-students.

-You remember I am Miss Bethan.

-Miss Maura and Miss Eilish

-were before me.

-Yes?

-Katie came for a year too.

-Katie and I, we came in 1984.

-Katie had to leave in 1985.

-I stayed until 1986. Yes?

-Seeing the old familiar faces

-is a shock to the system.

-They were children,

-but look at them now, all grown up.

-Obviously, their lives have changed.

-All teachers have their favourites,

-and I'm no exception.

-Some of you have not changed at all.

-I recognized you

-when you walked in to Mr Bigg's.

-Umar, you have not changed.

-You are exactly the same.

-And who else? Yunusa, where are you?

-He's exactly the same.

-You still look like

-when you were 14.

-LAUGHTER

-How many wives do you have?

-How many wives?

-Four good wives.

-LAUGHTER

-Jibrin. Where is Jibrin?

-You haven't changed.

-LAUGHTER

-I tell them that I've published

-my diary of our time together.

-It included

-some remarkable letters.

-Some of you sent me

-one or two letters.

-But there was one boy, he sent

-letter after letter after letter.

-Abdullahi Umar Lenfa-Kuso.

-It's printed in here.

-Another one!

-"Yours faithfully,

-Abdullahi Umar Lenfa-Kuso."

-Here we are. 30th April, 1986.

-"Since you leave, we have

-no English teacher up to now."

-You didn't have one for a long time.

-This is Yakubu.

-I told you

-I had some very clever pupils.

-Yakubu is a genius. Correct?

-That's you, isn't it?

-Come here. This is how he looked

-when he was a young lad.

-This whole experience

-is quite bonkers.

-I knew it would be -

-I said so, didn't I?

-I'm all sweaty

-but it's lovely seeing them again.

-Very nice to see you.

-A favourite photo of the time

-has some six pupils in it.

-I wanted to see

-if we could re-create it.

-In the end, as usual,

-everyone wanted to be in it!

-Cheese!

-When I had the opportunity

-to come back...

-..I thought, "Oh, 25 years."

-Maybe it's too long. Maybe,

-I won't remember you, nor you me.

-Maybe we'll have changed so much.

-Some of you have changed, yes.

-Some of you are very big now.

-Did you think you'd see me again?

-Yes?

-Yes?

-

-No, we never think.

-I didn't think I'd see you again.

-I always thought I want to go back,

-but, you know, life goes on.

-I just want you to know

-I'm so proud of you.

-It's true what I said -

-it was worth it.

-It was worth it then.

-It's worth it more now.

-OK, I've finished now.

-I leave the old English class.

-Victor says that a party

-has been arranged for me.

-Suddenly, the village chief

-starts to bow before me.

-Coroni!

-OK.

-You're going for the turbaning

-right now, to turban you.

-Wait.

-He said a word there - "coroni"?

-Coroni. That's what he gave you,

-he gave you now, the coronation.

-But he said "coroni" -

-it's the same in Welsh!

-Oh, really?

-I realize that it's not just

-a party. It's a ceremonial occasion.

-It's a ceremony for me!

-The people of Nigeria

-know how to organize a ceremony.

-It's like an eisteddfod -

-a pavilion, crowd, musicians...

-..and important people all around,

-even the Emir's deputy.

-I had no idea this would happen.

-I'd guessed they'd wanted

-to welcome me...

-..but never on this sort of scale.

-SINGING

-Next, I was covered with money.

-It seems that this is the way

-the singers are paid.

-From what I understand...

-..this is a large,

-important ceremony...

-..and it's usually reserved

-for honouring new village chiefs...

-..or someone akin to a chief.

-DRUMBEATS

-One by one,

-speeches are made to the crowd.

-The speakers are happy to be

-important and to exaggerate!

-SPEECHES

-After a while, I understand

-what's going to happen.

-I'm now an ambassador of Gbara.

-Yes, me.

-This explains

-the presence of the Emir's deputy.

-APPLAUSE

-It's time now for my maiden speech

-as the Jikadia of Gbara.

-NUPE GREETING

-You see, I still remember.

-Yes.

-Many of you have mentioned

-that you were glad...

-..that people like myself,

-Miss Katie, Miss Maura...

-..and Miss Eilish before us...

-..that we could leave

-the luxuries at home...

-..and live with you here in Gbara.

-But what I must explain is...

-..yes, it was hard...

-..yes, it was difficult...

-..yes, walking to Dancitagi

-in the sun was urgh!

-APPLAUSE

-And when the mosquitoes

-came at night...

-..argh!

-It didn't matter,

-because the people of Gbara...

-..the students of GDSS Gbara...

-..were fantastic.

-APPLAUSE

-Yes, clap yourselves.

-I can also say that there are

-some ex-pupils here present...

-..who are the most intelligent

-people I've ever taught in my life.

-APPLAUSE

-How do you thank people

-for such a welcome and honour?

-I'd like them to know

-that living and learning here...

-..despite the poverty

-and lack of resources...

-..was one of the best experiences

-of my life.

-I'm here to thank them,

-not the other way around.

-I am so grateful. Thank you

-everybody who was involved.

-I am very, very honoured.

-Thank you very much,

-heartfelt thanks - what an honour.

-SHE SPEAKS IN NUPE

-I don't know what else to say

-in Nupe.

-SHE SPEAKS IN NUPE

-LAUGHTER

-SINGING

-To the sound of wailing women,

-I'm robed as a Jikadia.

-The hat's a bit tricky

-because of my big head.

-It's not like the Urdd crown.

-Then the craziest show on earth

-gets under way.

-It's not like

-the Eisteddfod floral dance.

-This is why I love Nigeria so much.

-He's a former pupil of mine.

-I've always wanted

-someone to sing just for me.

-By dusk, I'd experienced

-all the emotions under the sun!

-My first day in Gbara...

-..was wildly insane,

-more than I'd imagined, a shock.

-How do I feel about it?

-A bit... er... oh, God!

-I don't really deserve it, do I?

-But, um....

-..I'm really delighted...

-..delighted.

-Don't miss the next programme.

-Watch the children having fun

-at their lessons.

-Learn about ancient and traditional

-Nupe ways and customs.

-Listen to the heartbreaking story

-of one exceptional ex-pupil.

-See me laughing and crying

-on a real emotional rollercoaster.

-You'll see why I still say

-that the people of Gbara...

-..are the most amiable on earth.

-S4C Subtitles by Simian 04 Cyf.

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