Pennod 1 Llwybr yr Arfordir


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-Pembrokeshire's coastal path...

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-..stretches for more than 186 miles.

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-Beginning in Amroth...

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-..it will guide us

-to our journey's end in St Dogmaels.

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-Over the next six weeks, we will

-visit several different locations...

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-..focusing on architecture, geology,

-wildlife and man's history.

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-Joining me on my journey

-is naturalist Elinor Gwynn...

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-..and poet and scholar

-Damian Walford Davies...

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-..who enjoys looking back

-through history.

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-Creating a coastal path came about

-during a period of optimism...

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-..following the Second World War.

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-In 1951,

-renowned naturalist RM Lockley...

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-..worked out the path's route.

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-A study was presented

-to the government in 1953...

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-..but it took until 1970 to get

-the permission of 150 landowners...

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-..before they could officially open

-the path.

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-This is a diverse path...

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-..in terms of nature,

-landscape and the history of man.

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-It has something for everyone.

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-It's 186 miles long

-and full of diversity...

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-..from its limestone cliffs...

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-..and St Brides Bay with its views

-across the peninsula...

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-..to the remarkable

-northern landscape.

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-There's also a variety of sea birds

-and plant life here...

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-..so there's plenty

-to suit all tastes.

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-The path's creator

-must have been a diplomat.

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-I think the 17 years it took...

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-..for the path to finally be created

-in 1970...

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-..was something extraordinary

-and unique.

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-We must thank the landowners

-because most of the path...

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-..runs through private land.

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-Their generosity and willingness to

-cooperate with the National Park...

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-..means that the thousands

-who walk along this path...

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-..are treated to the area's

-breathtaking scenery.

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-I've heard that it's wise to begin

-in the south and head northwards.

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-It's true. Those who have walked it

-say it's best to begin in the south.

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-The start is much steeper

-going south from St Dogmaels.

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-Once you reach that area,

-you have become used to the terrain.

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-The legs have hardened

-and it's easier to walk.

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-Our journey takes us

-from the dramatic beach at Amroth...

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-..to the remarkable geology

-of Skrinkle Haven.

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-My first port of call is Tenby.

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-With its picturesque harbour...

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-..and glorious architecture

-from various eras...

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-..it's a sight to behold.

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-I've been coming to Tenby

-since I was five years old...

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-..on Sunday school trips.

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-I've always thought of it

-as an upper-class lady...

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-..dressed in long, white gloves

-and the finest jewellery...

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-..that has been in the family

-for generations.

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-Yes, it's an ancient, dignified

-and elegant town.

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-Tenby has sustained numerous attacks

-over the centuries.

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-Once the Normans settled here, the

-Welsh frequently returned to attack.

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-Llywelyn ap Gruffudd

-and Owain Glyndwr attacked Tenby...

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-..as, later, did Oliver Cromwell.

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-To withstand constant attacks...

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-..numerous defensive structures

-were built in the town.

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-Towers and sturdy walls made

-the inhabitants feel more secure...

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-..when they faced a threat

-from Spain in 1588.

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-But Tenby's history isn't just

-about skirmishes and battles.

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-Situated in the heart of the town

-is a holy haven of tranquillity.

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-The medieval parish church

-of St Mary's...

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-..is among the largest in Wales,

-where tourists like myself...

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-..can become pilgrims.

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-The church dates back to 1210,

-when Gerald of Wales was its rector.

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-He complained that someone

-had forgotten to pay him.

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-The seaport grew

-and with it the export of canvas...

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-..coal and leather

-from Pembrokeshire.

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-In return, architectural ideas

-for churches were imported...

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-..ideas which originated

-in Devon and Somerset.

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-The roof and the arches...

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-..are heavily influenced by the

-architecture of the West Country.

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-But despite the church's beauty...

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-..it's the town's houses

-which catch the eye...

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-..and stay in the memory.

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-Are you like a child in a sweet shop

-when you come here?

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-Yes. You never know

-what awaits you inside.

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-The interior has the wow factor

-as you enter.

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-You're greeted by something

-you weren't expecting.

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-The stairs are magnificent

-as they guide you upstairs.

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-You walk into this room...

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-..and you're struck by the windows.

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-You expect to see Georgian windows,

-but they have a certain quirkiness.

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-The arches in the windows

-are reminiscent of the Tudor era.

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-Their shape isn't what you'd expect.

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-You'd expect to see features...

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-..from the Tudor period because the

-town is crammed with such buildings.

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-But they fell into disrepair...

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-..and houses like these

-capitalized on that fact.

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-That's an interesting way

-of looking at it.

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-There were many medieval buildings

-and later came the Tudor buildings.

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-There are narrow streets...

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-..and low-level houses.

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-You then come across

-these grander buildings...

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-..that are more substantial.

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-They either replaced or were built

-on top of low-level houses.

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-Perhaps they looked back in time

-and recreated what was here before.

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-They kept certain features

-like the arches...

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-..and incorporated them

-in the new houses.

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-Some experts suggest

-that this type of architecture...

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-..is the safe option.

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-Would you agree with them?

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-It's safe in one respect

-because in the Georgian era...

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-..they liked square, rectangular

-or cubic structures.

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-But they have incorporated

-different shapes and features...

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-..like the arches,

-and somehow it works.

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-In terms of growth...

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-..the town has always attracted

-lots of tourists.

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-They were often

-well-heeled tourists.

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-Certainly by the 18th century...

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-..wealthy Britons

-took a fancy to the place...

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-..and it became fashionable to own

-a holiday home here in Tenby.

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-Once one person came here,

-others followed...

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-..and they therefore set a trend.

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-A lot of hard work...

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-..has gone into this house,

-Norton House...

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-..because it was almost a ruin.

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-Yes, I was looking at photographs

-of the place back in 1995.

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-It's remarkable what they've done.

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-They've taken us back in time...

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-..to an age

-when it was in its heyday.

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-They've retained its character...

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-..which is so typical of the era.

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-In the old days, the residents of

-Tenby made a living from fishing.

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-These days,

-they're netting tourists instead.

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-It's easy to see why,

-with pastel-coloured houses...

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-..varied architecture...

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-..and, of course,

-the constant presence of the sea.

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-Our next stop on the Pembrokeshire

-Coastal Path is Skrinkle Haven.

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-Elinor is captivated

-by its floral tapestry.

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-Among the Pembrokeshire Coastal

-Path's most beautiful habitats...

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-..are the colourful

-grassy cliff tops.

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-The best examples

-are where the soil is fine...

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-..and the sea's influence

-is at its most powerful.

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-Many of the plants

-in this habitat...

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-..have adapted to the wild elements

-and rugged landscape.

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-Thrift grows on the cliff's edge.

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-This flower

-grows into a pillow shape.

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-It retains a great deal of moisture

-in its petals.

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-Of all the spring flowers...

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-..my favourite is the spring squill,

-a member of the bluebell family.

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-Its thin, yarn-like leaves...

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-..cover the ground

-like wriggly worms.

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-If I walk about ten steps

-to the other side of the path...

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-..I suddenly find myself

-in a different habitat.

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-The wind has dipped

-and the soil is thicker.

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-It's a grassier location...

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-..full of wood sorrel,

-foxgloves and violets.

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-There is a covering of nettles...

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-..which is indicative

-of fertile soil.

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-Around the corner,

-I'm in my seventh heaven.

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-Bees buzz all around me as I walk

-through a bed of wild garlic.

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-This plant thrives in fertile soil.

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-The influence

-of the limestone below...

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-..creates an ideal habitat

-for this flowering plant.

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-Its white pompoms bloom in April.

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-Among the wild garlic are bluebells,

-which flower throughout May.

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-One of the earliest bloomers

-on the cliff top...

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-..is scurvy grass.

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-The Welsh name for it

-derives from its leaves...

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-..which are shaped

-like large spoons.

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-In the past, it was known

-for its healing properties.

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-It was used by sailors

-suffering from scurvy.

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-They'd come ashore to search

-for this plant to chew...

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-..in order to absorb the vitamin C

-found in its leaves.

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-We see many precious plants

-flowering on this coastal path...

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-..and they are still as precious

-as they once were.

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-The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path

-is a modern recreational path.

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-But each time I walk along it...

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-..I'm conscious of the fact

-that the path...

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-..connects with wider networks.

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-For example, the Cistercian Way

-that connected Whitland...

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-..to Caldey Island.

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-And what about the tourist trails

-that stem from Tenby?

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-I'm here in Gumfreston...

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-..to explore those networks.

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-Gumfreston is less than two miles

-west of Tenby...

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-..and it's here

-that all those networks meet.

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-What first attracted people

-to Gumfreston...

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-..a damp rural corner

-that is now a churchyard?

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-The answer is three holy wells...

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-..from three separate sources...

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-..two of which

-bear sulphur and iron.

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-When the wealthy visited Tenby

-in the 18th century...

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-..they sent the town's young men

-to Gumfreston...

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-..to collect the water in a bottle.

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-During the sixth century, monks

-used the water for christenings...

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-..and as a cure for leprosy.

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-In the 18th century, locals used it

-to treat rheumatism...

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-..and eye problems.

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-In the 17th century...

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-..when Puritanism ended many

-of Wales's colourful customs...

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-..authorities still complained

-that locals came to this well...

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-..to throw pins or nails

-into the water.

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-It was an interesting custom

-known as throwing Lent away.

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-People came here on Easter Sunday

-to mark the crucifixion's end...

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-..and also the end of a period

-of suffering and penance.

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-The wells

-first attracted people here.

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-The 12th-century church

-was a later addition.

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-Some parts of it date back

-to the 14th and 15th centuries.

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-The tower typifies those found

-in southern Pembrokeshire...

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-..rather than the smaller

-Celtic churches of the north.

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-Inside St Lawrence's Church, there

-are references to the crucifixion.

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-This is a medieval wall painting

-that is very hard to make out.

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-Although it's cracked,

-there are two interpretations.

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-One is St Lawrence's martyrdom.

-This is his gridiron.

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-Legend has it that St Lawrence

-was martyred on one of these.

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-He was cooked to death.

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-He apparently endured his torture

-and jokingly told his torturers...

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-.."Turn me over, lads,

-I think I'm cooked on this side."

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-The second interpretation

-is the Christ of tradesmen.

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-You can make out

-Christ's crucified feet...

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-..surrounded by the craft implements

-of local people.

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-It's a fishing net, not a gridiron,

-and there's a pair of scissors too.

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-It's a warning

-against working on a Sunday...

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-..because breaking the Sabbath

-re-crucifies Christ.

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-It's peaceful here now...

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-..but Gumfreston

-was once a bustling community.

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-I'm in the ruins of a village

-that stood beside the quay...

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-..on the estuary of the River Ritec,

-which flowed through this valley.

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-Gumfreston communicated with

-the world through its waterways.

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-It was a transfer point for goods

-from the road to coasting vessels...

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-..that drifted to Tenby...

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-..and sailed out to the open seas.

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-But once the river was re-routed...

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-..Gumfreston went from being

-a bustling town to a green island.

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-Brambles

-where there was once business.

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-The main reason for establishing the

-Pembrokeshire Coast National Park...

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-..was the stunning variety

-of coastal cliffs and landforms.

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-They're a wonder to behold,

-but are so much more than that.

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-This variety of rocks...

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-..has created the different soils,

-landscapes and slopes...

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-..that sustain Pembrokeshire's

-wonderful wildlife habitats.

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-The cliffs

-have a church-like quality, Dyfed.

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-Yes, I'd agree, but there's also

-a castellated feel to them.

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-They're a combination

-of limestone...

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-..and a certain amount

-of mudstone...

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-..which is far softer, of course.

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-Without them,

-there wouldn't be a bay here...

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-..because they're so much softer

-than the limestone.

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-This is mudstone.

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-It's very brittle.

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-It breaks very easily.

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-But it's a very different story

-when it comes to limestone.

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-It's very sturdy and durable.

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-It's brimming with fossils.

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-What we're seeing here

-are remnants of shells.

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-Shells that thrived...

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-..in tropical, warm, shallow water.

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-This region is also famous

-for its combination of limestone...

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-..sandstone and coal

-within a relatively small area.

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-Yes, indeed, although there is only

-limestone and mudstone in this bay.

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-If we went to the other bay

-situated behind us...

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-..we'd find the reddish stone,

-which is older than the limestone.

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-Inside that red stone...

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-..you will find a combination

-of sandstone layers...

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-..along with many layers

-of mudstone.

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-What's so striking

-about this view...

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-..is that the layers are vertical.

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-It begs the question, why?

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-Throughout different periods

-in the earth's history...

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-..powerful movements

-were also occurring...

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-..when continents

-collided against one another.

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-The rocks folded as a consequence...

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-..leaving once-horizontal strata

-standing vertical.

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-That's what's so striking here...

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-..especially when you look across...

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-..to that amazing arch

-across the water.

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-Powerful forces have created

-this rugged landscape.

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-Forces that have been at work

-for millions of years.

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-Although it looks so permanent...

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-..the truth is,

-no landscape remains unchanged.

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-Forces are constantly shaping

-the landscape.

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-The sea and the weather

-pound the land...

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-..and human intervention is at work,

-shaping Pembrokeshire's landscape.

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-# If I were in your company

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-# We'd walk along the shore

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-# Waves would break on the beach

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-# The wind would leave a scar #

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-Next week, as we continue along

-the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path...

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-..Damian visits Castlemartin...

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-..Elinor explores the beach

-in Angle...

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-..and I'm in Manorbier...

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-..to discuss that prominent

-historical figure, Gerald of Wales.

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-# At rest with you

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-# At rest with you #

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-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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