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-The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path -National Trail... | 0:00:36 | 0:00:39 | |
-..stretches for more than 186 miles. | 0:00:39 | 0:00:42 | |
-Beginning in Amroth, -it will guide us... | 0:00:42 | 0:00:45 | |
-..to our journey's end -in St Dogmaels. | 0:00:45 | 0:00:48 | |
-Over the coming weeks, we'll visit -several different locations... | 0:00:50 | 0:00:54 | |
-..focusing on archaeology, geology, -wildlife and man's history. | 0:00:55 | 0:01:00 | |
-Joining me on my journey -is naturalist Elinor Gwynn... | 0:01:02 | 0:01:06 | |
-..and poet and scholar -Damian Walford Davies... | 0:01:07 | 0:01:10 | |
-..who enjoys looking back -through history. | 0:01:10 | 0:01:14 | |
-Today's journey along -the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path... | 0:01:25 | 0:01:29 | |
-..takes us from Manorbier and -its dramatic castle to Angle Bay. | 0:01:29 | 0:01:34 | |
-The name Manorbier -means manor of Pyr. | 0:01:55 | 0:01:58 | |
-Pyr established a hermit's cell -on Caldey Island... | 0:01:59 | 0:02:03 | |
-..in the sixth century. | 0:02:03 | 0:02:06 | |
-It later grew -into a monastic community. | 0:02:06 | 0:02:09 | |
-Unfortunately, Pyr drowned -in the sea off the island in 521. | 0:02:09 | 0:02:14 | |
-Manorbier is linked to someone -far more famous - Gerald of Wales. | 0:02:14 | 0:02:19 | |
-In one of his books, -he wrote that Dyfed... | 0:02:20 | 0:02:23 | |
-..is the most productive place -in Wales... | 0:02:23 | 0:02:27 | |
-..that Pembroke -is the prettiest part of Dyfed... | 0:02:27 | 0:02:30 | |
-..and that this is the most -pleasant place in Pembroke. | 0:02:31 | 0:02:35 | |
-It's no wonder he said that, -because he was born here. | 0:02:36 | 0:02:40 | |
-Gerald belonged -to an influential family. | 0:02:55 | 0:02:58 | |
-His father, William de Barri, -was a Norman knight... | 0:02:59 | 0:03:02 | |
-..who took his name -from Barry Island. | 0:03:03 | 0:03:05 | |
-His mother, Angharad, -was the daughter of Princess Nest. | 0:03:06 | 0:03:10 | |
-Because of these connections, -Gerald knew everyone. | 0:03:10 | 0:03:13 | |
-The kings of England, -the princes of Wales and the Pope. | 0:03:13 | 0:03:17 | |
-Growing up, Gerald's family -called him the little bishop. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:41 | |
-His Uncle David -was the Bishop of St David's. | 0:03:42 | 0:03:45 | |
-Gerald grew to be a remarkable man. | 0:03:45 | 0:03:48 | |
-He was self-righteous, -obsessional, energetic and complex. | 0:03:48 | 0:03:53 | |
-Although his brothers were happy -to be honourable Norman soldiers... | 0:03:53 | 0:03:58 | |
-..he preferred to embrace -his Welsh heritage. | 0:03:58 | 0:04:02 | |
-In 1188, -Gerald journeyed around Wales... | 0:04:08 | 0:04:13 | |
-..and wrote a book -about his travels. | 0:04:13 | 0:04:16 | |
-This is the first travel guide -to Wales. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:19 | |
-He describes everything he sees - -miracles, people and landscapes... | 0:04:19 | 0:04:24 | |
-..from picturesque Snowdonia -to his beloved Pembrokeshire. | 0:04:24 | 0:04:29 | |
-He was an international figure -in his day... | 0:04:33 | 0:04:36 | |
-..although the world -was smaller then. | 0:04:36 | 0:04:38 | |
-It was to a certain degree, -but he was an intrepid traveller. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:43 | |
-He received a church education -in Gloucester... | 0:04:43 | 0:04:47 | |
-..and later studied -at the University of Paris. | 0:04:47 | 0:04:50 | |
-He accompanied the king of England -on his travels... | 0:04:50 | 0:04:54 | |
-..he journeyed throughout Wales -and visited Rome three times. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:58 | |
-He saw a lot -of the Latin Christian world. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:02 | |
-He had designs on becoming -the Archbishop of St David's... | 0:05:02 | 0:05:06 | |
-..but essentially he was a cleric -who wanted to go far. | 0:05:07 | 0:05:10 | |
-He longed to be appointed -to a wealthy bishopric... | 0:05:11 | 0:05:14 | |
-..but these tended to be in England. | 0:05:14 | 0:05:17 | |
-He was offered four bishoprics... | 0:05:17 | 0:05:21 | |
-..two in Ireland, -as well as Bangor and St Asaph. | 0:05:21 | 0:05:24 | |
-He turned them all down. | 0:05:25 | 0:05:27 | |
-The second time he was nominated -as Bishop of St David's... | 0:05:27 | 0:05:31 | |
-..he was over 50 years old. | 0:05:31 | 0:05:33 | |
-He realized that the English -bishoprics were out of his reach. | 0:05:33 | 0:05:37 | |
-Instead, he focused on St David's -and made the most of it. | 0:05:38 | 0:05:41 | |
-He argued that the bishopric -of St David's... | 0:05:42 | 0:05:45 | |
-..should be the archbishopric -of Wales, which was ambitious. | 0:05:45 | 0:05:50 | |
-It was an ambition -that he failed to fulfil. | 0:05:51 | 0:05:55 | |
-He was three-quarters Norman -and coveted a bishopric in England. | 0:05:55 | 0:06:01 | |
-Why then is he called -Gerald of Wales? | 0:06:01 | 0:06:04 | |
-His Latin name, Giraldus Cambrensis, -is ambiguous. | 0:06:04 | 0:06:08 | |
-His English name is perhaps -more fitting - Gerald of Wales. | 0:06:08 | 0:06:12 | |
-Essentially, that's what he was. | 0:06:13 | 0:06:16 | |
-He came from Wales -but wasn't a true Welshman. | 0:06:16 | 0:06:19 | |
-He couldn't even speak Welsh. | 0:06:19 | 0:06:21 | |
-It's difficult to sum up -Gerald's trials and tribulations. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:34 | |
-He was a diplomat and theologian... | 0:06:35 | 0:06:37 | |
-..a prolific author -and tireless traveller. | 0:06:37 | 0:06:40 | |
-But one thing is certain. | 0:06:41 | 0:06:43 | |
-He was one of the most -charismatic characters... | 0:06:43 | 0:06:46 | |
-..of the turbulent Middle Ages. | 0:06:47 | 0:06:49 | |
-This is Stackpole National Nature -Reserve, south of Pembroke. | 0:07:10 | 0:07:15 | |
-I'm here today to catch a glimpse -of a rare creature. | 0:07:16 | 0:07:19 | |
-It's one of Wales's rarest bats. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
-There are 69 species -of horseshoe bat... | 0:07:34 | 0:07:37 | |
-..five in Europe and two in Britain. | 0:07:37 | 0:07:40 | |
-Both the greater horseshoe bat... | 0:07:40 | 0:07:43 | |
-..and the lesser horseshoe bat -can be found in Stackpole. | 0:07:43 | 0:07:46 | |
-The greater horseshoe bat -is the rarer of the two. | 0:07:47 | 0:07:50 | |
-In terms of size and shape, -they resemble a fist... | 0:07:50 | 0:07:54 | |
-..and weigh -between 15 and 34 grams. | 0:07:54 | 0:07:57 | |
-Why are they called horseshoe bats? | 0:08:03 | 0:08:05 | |
-The folds around the nose -are shaped like a horseshoe. | 0:08:06 | 0:08:11 | |
-It's associated -with their predatory function. | 0:08:12 | 0:08:15 | |
-They emit ultrasound -from their nostrils. | 0:08:15 | 0:08:19 | |
-That hits their prey -as they fly around. | 0:08:19 | 0:08:23 | |
-The sound bounces back to the bat... | 0:08:24 | 0:08:26 | |
-..so they can track the location -of the creatures they want to hunt. | 0:08:26 | 0:08:31 | |
-During spring and summer, -females converge... | 0:08:37 | 0:08:41 | |
-..to give birth to their young, -one per adult female. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:45 | |
-Horseshoe bats mostly gravitate -towards fairly grand buildings... | 0:08:47 | 0:08:52 | |
-..those built before the 1900s... | 0:08:52 | 0:08:55 | |
-..with plenty of loft space -and slate roofs, usually. | 0:08:55 | 0:09:00 | |
-The various species of bat -eat different foods... | 0:09:10 | 0:09:13 | |
-..and hunt in different ways. | 0:09:13 | 0:09:15 | |
-Some hunt by flying -over grasslands... | 0:09:16 | 0:09:19 | |
-..and swooping down on prey. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:22 | |
-Some hide in the branches -of trees and pounce on prey... | 0:09:22 | 0:09:26 | |
-..as birds do. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:28 | |
-They're able to travel -long distances... | 0:09:31 | 0:09:33 | |
-..as much as 14km in a night -from their nursery roosts... | 0:09:34 | 0:09:38 | |
-..to find foraging habitats. | 0:09:38 | 0:09:40 | |
-There is a wealth -of unimproved grassland here. | 0:09:41 | 0:09:44 | |
-It teems with insects at night. | 0:09:45 | 0:09:48 | |
-It's 8.55pm and they're leaving -their roost in their droves. | 0:10:12 | 0:10:17 | |
-I'd forgotten -how large these bats are. | 0:10:17 | 0:10:21 | |
-Their wingspan -is around 14 inches. | 0:10:21 | 0:10:25 | |
-That's much bigger -than the lesser horseshoe. | 0:10:25 | 0:10:29 | |
-I've tuned in this monitor... | 0:10:31 | 0:10:33 | |
-..to a frequency of 83kHz -so that it picks up the bat noises. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:38 | |
-You can hear -their wonderful gargling sound. | 0:10:38 | 0:10:41 | |
-Only horseshoe bats emit this sound. | 0:10:42 | 0:10:44 | |
-Other species -make a clicking or ticking sound. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:48 | |
-It's a very distinctive -and pleasant sound. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:51 | |
-As a keen bat watcher, I've often -watched them leave their roosts... | 0:11:00 | 0:11:05 | |
-..and hibernate underground. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:08 | |
-But watching them like this -in the wild is captivating. | 0:11:08 | 0:11:12 | |
-They're like black eyelashes -fluttering in the darkness. | 0:11:13 | 0:11:17 | |
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-The dichotomy of the next location -on the coastal path... | 0:11:53 | 0:11:57 | |
-..has attracted Damian's attention. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
-Linney Head is both unusual -and perplexing. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:04 | |
-Access to the shoreline -is restricted by the MOD. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:09 | |
-We have to turn our backs -on our old friend, the sea... | 0:12:09 | 0:12:13 | |
-..and plough across the peninsula... | 0:12:13 | 0:12:15 | |
-..following roads -rather than the winding trail... | 0:12:16 | 0:12:20 | |
-..of the Pembrokeshire coastline. | 0:12:20 | 0:12:23 | |
-This is a land of tension, -a land of tanks. | 0:12:23 | 0:12:27 | |
-A land of chaos, a land of ruins. | 0:12:27 | 0:12:30 | |
-"The swallow will find its nest... | 0:12:35 | 0:12:37 | |
-"..but kinship leaves the fireside. | 0:12:37 | 0:12:40 | |
-"Calendar of the homestead, -finished, and the family fled. | 0:12:40 | 0:12:45 | |
-"People letting the land go wild | 0:12:45 | 0:12:47 | |
-"From their heart's country exiled. | 0:12:47 | 0:12:50 | |
-"A poor thing splendour will be -Along the banks of the Lini." | 0:12:51 | 0:12:55 | |
-Here's a history lesson, -and like all history lessons... | 0:13:00 | 0:13:03 | |
-..it's full of paradox -and contrast. | 0:13:04 | 0:13:06 | |
-In 1939, the Ministry of War -acquired 6,000 acres of land... | 0:13:06 | 0:13:12 | |
-..to create an artillery range -here on Linney Head. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:17 | |
-The existing community -was forced to relocate. | 0:13:17 | 0:13:21 | |
-It was easy enough to do -because they were estate tenants. | 0:13:24 | 0:13:29 | |
-The West German army's panzers -occupied the range in the 1960s. | 0:13:30 | 0:13:34 | |
-That arrangement -came to an end in 1996. | 0:13:35 | 0:13:39 | |
-But this land is still used -as a functioning firing range... | 0:13:39 | 0:13:44 | |
-..to train young British men -and women for combat. | 0:13:44 | 0:13:48 | |
-Access to the range -is restricted. | 0:13:56 | 0:13:59 | |
-The guns are rarely quiet -in Castlemartin. | 0:14:00 | 0:14:03 | |
-But there is now a bridle path... | 0:14:03 | 0:14:07 | |
-..that snakes its way -around the coastline. | 0:14:08 | 0:14:10 | |
-When the Ministry of War announced -it was acquiring Castlemartin... | 0:14:17 | 0:14:21 | |
-..Waldo wrote -Daw'r Wennol Yn Ol I'w Nyth. | 0:14:22 | 0:14:25 | |
-I'm about to read you a letter -from Waldo to Prosser Rhys... | 0:14:25 | 0:14:29 | |
-..the editor of Y Faner, in 1939. | 0:14:30 | 0:14:32 | |
-"When I read the poem -that I sent you to my friends... | 0:14:32 | 0:14:37 | |
-"..they said I hadn't explained -the issue clearly enough in it. | 0:14:37 | 0:14:42 | |
-"It's about the farms -between the marshland and the sea... | 0:14:42 | 0:14:46 | |
-"..where the tank range -will soon be located. | 0:14:46 | 0:14:49 | |
-"So I rewrote the poem -in order to personalize it. | 0:14:49 | 0:14:53 | |
-"The sober cows' procession -with their offering will not come. | 0:14:57 | 0:15:01 | |
-"Nor in Pen-yr-Hollt you'll see -the sheep come to the valley." | 0:15:02 | 0:15:08 | |
-What's your relationship -with Castlemartin, Cerwyn? | 0:15:12 | 0:15:18 | |
-It stems from -the harsh winter of 1947. | 0:15:18 | 0:15:23 | |
-There were huge losses in Preseli, -as there were in other parts... | 0:15:23 | 0:15:27 | |
-..due to the severe weather. | 0:15:27 | 0:15:29 | |
-A Ministry of Agriculture official -by the name of WH Jones... | 0:15:30 | 0:15:35 | |
-..thought that the land -at Castlemartin... | 0:15:35 | 0:15:40 | |
-..wasn't used by the army in winter. | 0:15:40 | 0:15:43 | |
-He revived the transhumance system -of moving the sheep during winter. | 0:15:43 | 0:15:49 | |
-My father was one of the first -to bring sheep here... | 0:15:49 | 0:15:53 | |
-..in December 1950, -a week before I was born. | 0:15:53 | 0:15:57 | |
-There's a strange atmosphere here -because of the contrasts. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:03 | |
-Are you aware of it? | 0:16:03 | 0:16:04 | |
-Are you aware of it? - -Yes. | 0:16:04 | 0:16:05 | |
-It's wasteful because the land -isn't farmed to its full potential. | 0:16:06 | 0:16:11 | |
-But we're trying -to make the most of the situation. | 0:16:12 | 0:16:15 | |
-In ten, twenty, fifty years, -this might be farmland once again. | 0:16:16 | 0:16:21 | |
-This land is a land -of remarkable contrast. | 0:16:37 | 0:16:42 | |
-On the one hand... | 0:16:42 | 0:16:44 | |
-..I see young men -training for the next war. | 0:16:44 | 0:16:48 | |
-Some are preparing for another -tour of duty in Afghanistan. | 0:16:48 | 0:16:53 | |
-But as I look around me, I see -a wonderful habitat for wildlife. | 0:16:53 | 0:16:59 | |
-A diversity of insects and birds. | 0:16:59 | 0:17:02 | |
-This land hasn't been farmed -since the 1930s. | 0:17:02 | 0:17:06 | |
-There are no chemicals in the soil. | 0:17:07 | 0:17:09 | |
-So I'm prompted to ask -the following question... | 0:17:10 | 0:17:13 | |
-..in the words of Waldo... | 0:17:13 | 0:17:16 | |
-.."Winter will pass, but will -the swallow return to its nest?" | 0:17:16 | 0:17:20 | |
-The coastline is a difficult -environment for wildlife. | 0:17:44 | 0:17:48 | |
-Imagine how it must feel -being beaten by waves... | 0:17:48 | 0:17:52 | |
-..and sucked out -of your familiar habitat... | 0:17:52 | 0:17:55 | |
-..and then left exposed to fight -the elements and predators? | 0:17:55 | 0:18:00 | |
-Because it is so difficult... | 0:18:00 | 0:18:03 | |
-..wildlife has had to adapt -in numerous different ways. | 0:18:03 | 0:18:07 | |
-They've had to adjust -to extremes in temperature... | 0:18:07 | 0:18:11 | |
-..and learn to store water. | 0:18:11 | 0:18:13 | |
-They've also had to learn -when to reproduce... | 0:18:14 | 0:18:17 | |
-..in order to synchronize -with the tide. | 0:18:17 | 0:18:20 | |
-But not all species can adapt -to the change in conditions. | 0:18:23 | 0:18:28 | |
-Often, species are distributed -into different bands on the beach. | 0:18:31 | 0:18:36 | |
-This is especially noticeable -in seaweed on secluded beaches. | 0:18:37 | 0:18:41 | |
-The highest level in all bands... | 0:18:42 | 0:18:44 | |
-..gauges the species' ability -to survive out of the sea. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:49 | |
-Seaweed is among the most familiar -of seaside plants. | 0:18:51 | 0:18:54 | |
-There are 600 different kinds -throughout Britain. | 0:18:54 | 0:18:58 | |
-There are common species here... | 0:18:58 | 0:19:02 | |
-..the brown bladderwrack -and the green sea lettuce. | 0:19:02 | 0:19:08 | |
-Interestingly, -seaweed produces mucus. | 0:19:08 | 0:19:12 | |
-That's swallowed by bacteria... | 0:19:12 | 0:19:15 | |
-..and other small creatures... | 0:19:16 | 0:19:19 | |
-..and then enters the food chain. | 0:19:19 | 0:19:22 | |
-Seaweed helps produce... | 0:19:22 | 0:19:24 | |
-..the wide range of nutrients -found in our Welsh seas. | 0:19:24 | 0:19:28 | |
-On craggy beaches such as this... | 0:19:31 | 0:19:33 | |
-..rock pools provide -a thriving habitat. | 0:19:33 | 0:19:36 | |
-They're a diversity -of smaller habitats... | 0:19:36 | 0:19:40 | |
-..that thrive underneath the cliffs. | 0:19:40 | 0:19:43 | |
-One of the most beautiful creatures -is the anemone. | 0:19:44 | 0:19:47 | |
-It's able to filter seawater -and clean it... | 0:19:48 | 0:19:52 | |
-..so that the sun's rays -can penetrate deeper. | 0:19:52 | 0:19:55 | |
-Another familiar seaside creature -is the limpet. | 0:20:03 | 0:20:08 | |
-It doesn't move very far. | 0:20:08 | 0:20:10 | |
-It sticks rigidly to the rock. | 0:20:11 | 0:20:13 | |
-Interestingly, they sense -the presence of predators. | 0:20:14 | 0:20:18 | |
-They are eaten by starfish. | 0:20:18 | 0:20:20 | |
-When the tide is in, -the shells are exposed. | 0:20:20 | 0:20:23 | |
-They sense -the starfish's arm approaching... | 0:20:24 | 0:20:27 | |
-..as it tries to get at the limpet's -muscular foot under the shell. | 0:20:28 | 0:20:34 | |
-It rises up like a mushroom -and slams the shell onto the rock... | 0:20:34 | 0:20:38 | |
-..pinching the starfish's arm. | 0:20:38 | 0:20:41 | |
-Pollution -also affects our coastline. | 0:20:44 | 0:20:47 | |
-One of the worst cases -along this stretch of shoreline... | 0:20:47 | 0:20:52 | |
-..was the Sea Empress oil spill -15 years ago. | 0:20:52 | 0:20:55 | |
-On 15 February 1996... | 0:20:55 | 0:20:58 | |
-..the Sea Empress ran aground -not far from here. | 0:20:58 | 0:21:02 | |
-Over the course of five days -in blustery, stormy weather... | 0:21:02 | 0:21:07 | |
-..a total of 73,000 tonnes of oil -spilled into the sea... | 0:21:07 | 0:21:11 | |
-..and spread extensively, -reaching as far as Carmarthen Bay. | 0:21:11 | 0:21:16 | |
-The tragedy happened -in late afternoon... | 0:21:19 | 0:21:22 | |
-..on that fateful day in February. | 0:21:22 | 0:21:25 | |
-In 24 hours, -this beach was completely black. | 0:21:25 | 0:21:29 | |
-It instantly affected the birds -that live here. | 0:21:29 | 0:21:34 | |
-There is a diversity of species -in this area. | 0:21:34 | 0:21:38 | |
-There was an effort to catch them -and remove the oil from them. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:43 | |
-Another of the effects... | 0:21:43 | 0:21:46 | |
-..was the spraying of chemicals -to disperse the oil. | 0:21:46 | 0:21:51 | |
-They were very effective, -but they were toxic. | 0:21:51 | 0:21:55 | |
-They too ended up -being washed up on the shore. | 0:21:59 | 0:22:03 | |
-Fifteen years on, there doesn't seem -to be any long-term damage... | 0:22:04 | 0:22:09 | |
-..to wildlife in this bay. | 0:22:09 | 0:22:12 | |
-Numerous chemicals were used... | 0:22:12 | 0:22:15 | |
-..but should something else -have been used instead? | 0:22:16 | 0:22:19 | |
-Spraying chemicals onto the spill -was beneficial... | 0:22:19 | 0:22:23 | |
-..because the birds were swooping -into the oil on the sea's surface. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:29 | |
-In that respect, -they had a positive effect. | 0:22:29 | 0:22:32 | |
-But it was a very different story -on the beach. | 0:22:32 | 0:22:36 | |
-Instead of preventing -the use of chemicals... | 0:22:36 | 0:22:39 | |
-..research should be carried out -to find safer chemicals... | 0:22:39 | 0:22:44 | |
-..that won't leave a lasting effect. | 0:22:45 | 0:22:49 | |
-So more work needs to be done. | 0:22:49 | 0:22:50 | |
-So more work needs to be done. - -Yes, definitely. | 0:22:50 | 0:22:52 | |
-# In the faint glow of the stars | 0:22:54 | 0:22:58 | |
-# She stands | 0:22:58 | 0:23:01 | |
-# On the threshold | 0:23:03 | 0:23:05 | |
-# Of the door # | 0:23:07 | 0:23:10 | |
-Next week, Damian traces -Milford Haven's history... | 0:23:13 | 0:23:17 | |
-..Elinor looks at an experiment -to expand habitats in Marloes... | 0:23:19 | 0:23:23 | |
-..and I walk along -Newgale's shingle ridge. | 0:23:24 | 0:23:27 | |
-# The birds' squawk | 0:23:31 | 0:23:34 | |
-# Call me forward | 0:23:35 | 0:23:38 | |
-# Foolish vanity | 0:23:39 | 0:23:43 | |
-# Pull me back # | 0:23:43 | 0:23:46 | |
-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf. | 0:23:51 | 0:23:53 | |
-. | 0:23:54 | 0:23:54 |