Pennod 2 Llwybr yr Arfordir


Pennod 2

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-The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path

-National Trail...

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-..stretches for more than 186 miles.

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-Beginning in Amroth,

-it will guide us...

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-..to our journey's end

-in St Dogmaels.

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-Over the coming weeks, we'll visit

-several different locations...

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-..focusing on archaeology, geology,

-wildlife and man's history.

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-Joining me on my journey

-is naturalist Elinor Gwynn...

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-..and poet and scholar

-Damian Walford Davies...

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-..who enjoys looking back

-through history.

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-Today's journey along

-the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path...

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-..takes us from Manorbier and

-its dramatic castle to Angle Bay.

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-The name Manorbier

-means manor of Pyr.

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-Pyr established a hermit's cell

-on Caldey Island...

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-..in the sixth century.

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-It later grew

-into a monastic community.

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-Unfortunately, Pyr drowned

-in the sea off the island in 521.

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-Manorbier is linked to someone

-far more famous - Gerald of Wales.

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-In one of his books,

-he wrote that Dyfed...

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-..is the most productive place

-in Wales...

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-..that Pembroke

-is the prettiest part of Dyfed...

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-..and that this is the most

-pleasant place in Pembroke.

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-It's no wonder he said that,

-because he was born here.

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-Gerald belonged

-to an influential family.

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-His father, William de Barri,

-was a Norman knight...

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-..who took his name

-from Barry Island.

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-His mother, Angharad,

-was the daughter of Princess Nest.

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-Because of these connections,

-Gerald knew everyone.

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-The kings of England,

-the princes of Wales and the Pope.

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-Growing up, Gerald's family

-called him the little bishop.

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-His Uncle David

-was the Bishop of St David's.

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-Gerald grew to be a remarkable man.

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-He was self-righteous,

-obsessional, energetic and complex.

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-Although his brothers were happy

-to be honourable Norman soldiers...

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-..he preferred to embrace

-his Welsh heritage.

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-In 1188,

-Gerald journeyed around Wales...

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-..and wrote a book

-about his travels.

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-This is the first travel guide

-to Wales.

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-He describes everything he sees -

-miracles, people and landscapes...

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-..from picturesque Snowdonia

-to his beloved Pembrokeshire.

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-He was an international figure

-in his day...

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-..although the world

-was smaller then.

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-It was to a certain degree,

-but he was an intrepid traveller.

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-He received a church education

-in Gloucester...

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-..and later studied

-at the University of Paris.

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-He accompanied the king of England

-on his travels...

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-..he journeyed throughout Wales

-and visited Rome three times.

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-He saw a lot

-of the Latin Christian world.

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-He had designs on becoming

-the Archbishop of St David's...

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-..but essentially he was a cleric

-who wanted to go far.

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-He longed to be appointed

-to a wealthy bishopric...

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-..but these tended to be in England.

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-He was offered four bishoprics...

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-..two in Ireland,

-as well as Bangor and St Asaph.

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-He turned them all down.

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-The second time he was nominated

-as Bishop of St David's...

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-..he was over 50 years old.

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-He realized that the English

-bishoprics were out of his reach.

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-Instead, he focused on St David's

-and made the most of it.

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-He argued that the bishopric

-of St David's...

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-..should be the archbishopric

-of Wales, which was ambitious.

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-It was an ambition

-that he failed to fulfil.

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-He was three-quarters Norman

-and coveted a bishopric in England.

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-Why then is he called

-Gerald of Wales?

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-His Latin name, Giraldus Cambrensis,

-is ambiguous.

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-His English name is perhaps

-more fitting - Gerald of Wales.

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-Essentially, that's what he was.

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-He came from Wales

-but wasn't a true Welshman.

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-He couldn't even speak Welsh.

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-It's difficult to sum up

-Gerald's trials and tribulations.

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-He was a diplomat and theologian...

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-..a prolific author

-and tireless traveller.

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-But one thing is certain.

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-He was one of the most

-charismatic characters...

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-..of the turbulent Middle Ages.

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-This is Stackpole National Nature

-Reserve, south of Pembroke.

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-I'm here today to catch a glimpse

-of a rare creature.

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-It's one of Wales's rarest bats.

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-There are 69 species

-of horseshoe bat...

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-..five in Europe and two in Britain.

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-Both the greater horseshoe bat...

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-..and the lesser horseshoe bat

-can be found in Stackpole.

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-The greater horseshoe bat

-is the rarer of the two.

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-In terms of size and shape,

-they resemble a fist...

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-..and weigh

-between 15 and 34 grams.

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-Why are they called horseshoe bats?

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-The folds around the nose

-are shaped like a horseshoe.

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-It's associated

-with their predatory function.

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-They emit ultrasound

-from their nostrils.

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-That hits their prey

-as they fly around.

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-The sound bounces back to the bat...

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-..so they can track the location

-of the creatures they want to hunt.

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-During spring and summer,

-females converge...

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-..to give birth to their young,

-one per adult female.

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-Horseshoe bats mostly gravitate

-towards fairly grand buildings...

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-..those built before the 1900s...

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-..with plenty of loft space

-and slate roofs, usually.

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-The various species of bat

-eat different foods...

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-..and hunt in different ways.

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-Some hunt by flying

-over grasslands...

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-..and swooping down on prey.

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-Some hide in the branches

-of trees and pounce on prey...

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-..as birds do.

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-They're able to travel

-long distances...

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-..as much as 14km in a night

-from their nursery roosts...

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-..to find foraging habitats.

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-There is a wealth

-of unimproved grassland here.

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-It teems with insects at night.

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-It's 8.55pm and they're leaving

-their roost in their droves.

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-I'd forgotten

-how large these bats are.

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-Their wingspan

-is around 14 inches.

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-That's much bigger

-than the lesser horseshoe.

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-I've tuned in this monitor...

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-..to a frequency of 83kHz

-so that it picks up the bat noises.

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-You can hear

-their wonderful gargling sound.

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-Only horseshoe bats emit this sound.

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-Other species

-make a clicking or ticking sound.

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-It's a very distinctive

-and pleasant sound.

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-As a keen bat watcher, I've often

-watched them leave their roosts...

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-..and hibernate underground.

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-But watching them like this

-in the wild is captivating.

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-They're like black eyelashes

-fluttering in the darkness.

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-The dichotomy of the next location

-on the coastal path...

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-..has attracted Damian's attention.

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-Linney Head is both unusual

-and perplexing.

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-Access to the shoreline

-is restricted by the MOD.

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-We have to turn our backs

-on our old friend, the sea...

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-..and plough across the peninsula...

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-..following roads

-rather than the winding trail...

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-..of the Pembrokeshire coastline.

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-This is a land of tension,

-a land of tanks.

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-A land of chaos, a land of ruins.

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-"The swallow will find its nest...

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-"..but kinship leaves the fireside.

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-"Calendar of the homestead,

-finished, and the family fled.

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-"People letting the land go wild

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-"From their heart's country exiled.

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-"A poor thing splendour will be

-Along the banks of the Lini."

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-Here's a history lesson,

-and like all history lessons...

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-..it's full of paradox

-and contrast.

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-In 1939, the Ministry of War

-acquired 6,000 acres of land...

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-..to create an artillery range

-here on Linney Head.

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-The existing community

-was forced to relocate.

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-It was easy enough to do

-because they were estate tenants.

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-The West German army's panzers

-occupied the range in the 1960s.

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-That arrangement

-came to an end in 1996.

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-But this land is still used

-as a functioning firing range...

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-..to train young British men

-and women for combat.

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-Access to the range

-is restricted.

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-The guns are rarely quiet

-in Castlemartin.

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-But there is now a bridle path...

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-..that snakes its way

-around the coastline.

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-When the Ministry of War announced

-it was acquiring Castlemartin...

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-..Waldo wrote

-Daw'r Wennol Yn Ol I'w Nyth.

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-I'm about to read you a letter

-from Waldo to Prosser Rhys...

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-..the editor of Y Faner, in 1939.

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-"When I read the poem

-that I sent you to my friends...

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-"..they said I hadn't explained

-the issue clearly enough in it.

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-"It's about the farms

-between the marshland and the sea...

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-"..where the tank range

-will soon be located.

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-"So I rewrote the poem

-in order to personalize it.

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-"The sober cows' procession

-with their offering will not come.

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-"Nor in Pen-yr-Hollt you'll see

-the sheep come to the valley."

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-What's your relationship

-with Castlemartin, Cerwyn?

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-It stems from

-the harsh winter of 1947.

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-There were huge losses in Preseli,

-as there were in other parts...

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-..due to the severe weather.

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-A Ministry of Agriculture official

-by the name of WH Jones...

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-..thought that the land

-at Castlemartin...

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-..wasn't used by the army in winter.

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-He revived the transhumance system

-of moving the sheep during winter.

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-My father was one of the first

-to bring sheep here...

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-..in December 1950,

-a week before I was born.

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-There's a strange atmosphere here

-because of the contrasts.

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-Are you aware of it?

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-Are you aware of it?

-

-Yes.

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-It's wasteful because the land

-isn't farmed to its full potential.

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-But we're trying

-to make the most of the situation.

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-In ten, twenty, fifty years,

-this might be farmland once again.

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-This land is a land

-of remarkable contrast.

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-On the one hand...

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-..I see young men

-training for the next war.

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-Some are preparing for another

-tour of duty in Afghanistan.

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-But as I look around me, I see

-a wonderful habitat for wildlife.

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-A diversity of insects and birds.

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-This land hasn't been farmed

-since the 1930s.

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-There are no chemicals in the soil.

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-So I'm prompted to ask

-the following question...

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-..in the words of Waldo...

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-.."Winter will pass, but will

-the swallow return to its nest?"

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-The coastline is a difficult

-environment for wildlife.

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-Imagine how it must feel

-being beaten by waves...

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-..and sucked out

-of your familiar habitat...

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-..and then left exposed to fight

-the elements and predators?

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-Because it is so difficult...

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-..wildlife has had to adapt

-in numerous different ways.

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-They've had to adjust

-to extremes in temperature...

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-..and learn to store water.

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-They've also had to learn

-when to reproduce...

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-..in order to synchronize

-with the tide.

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-But not all species can adapt

-to the change in conditions.

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-Often, species are distributed

-into different bands on the beach.

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-This is especially noticeable

-in seaweed on secluded beaches.

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-The highest level in all bands...

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-..gauges the species' ability

-to survive out of the sea.

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-Seaweed is among the most familiar

-of seaside plants.

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-There are 600 different kinds

-throughout Britain.

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-There are common species here...

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-..the brown bladderwrack

-and the green sea lettuce.

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-Interestingly,

-seaweed produces mucus.

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-That's swallowed by bacteria...

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-..and other small creatures...

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-..and then enters the food chain.

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-Seaweed helps produce...

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-..the wide range of nutrients

-found in our Welsh seas.

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-On craggy beaches such as this...

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-..rock pools provide

-a thriving habitat.

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-They're a diversity

-of smaller habitats...

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-..that thrive underneath the cliffs.

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-One of the most beautiful creatures

-is the anemone.

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-It's able to filter seawater

-and clean it...

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-..so that the sun's rays

-can penetrate deeper.

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-Another familiar seaside creature

-is the limpet.

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-It doesn't move very far.

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-It sticks rigidly to the rock.

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-Interestingly, they sense

-the presence of predators.

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-They are eaten by starfish.

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-When the tide is in,

-the shells are exposed.

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-They sense

-the starfish's arm approaching...

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-..as it tries to get at the limpet's

-muscular foot under the shell.

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-It rises up like a mushroom

-and slams the shell onto the rock...

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-..pinching the starfish's arm.

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-Pollution

-also affects our coastline.

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-One of the worst cases

-along this stretch of shoreline...

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-..was the Sea Empress oil spill

-15 years ago.

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-On 15 February 1996...

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-..the Sea Empress ran aground

-not far from here.

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-Over the course of five days

-in blustery, stormy weather...

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-..a total of 73,000 tonnes of oil

-spilled into the sea...

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-..and spread extensively,

-reaching as far as Carmarthen Bay.

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-The tragedy happened

-in late afternoon...

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-..on that fateful day in February.

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-In 24 hours,

-this beach was completely black.

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-It instantly affected the birds

-that live here.

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-There is a diversity of species

-in this area.

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-There was an effort to catch them

-and remove the oil from them.

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-Another of the effects...

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-..was the spraying of chemicals

-to disperse the oil.

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-They were very effective,

-but they were toxic.

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-They too ended up

-being washed up on the shore.

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-Fifteen years on, there doesn't seem

-to be any long-term damage...

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-..to wildlife in this bay.

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-Numerous chemicals were used...

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-..but should something else

-have been used instead?

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-Spraying chemicals onto the spill

-was beneficial...

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-..because the birds were swooping

-into the oil on the sea's surface.

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-In that respect,

-they had a positive effect.

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-But it was a very different story

-on the beach.

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-Instead of preventing

-the use of chemicals...

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-..research should be carried out

-to find safer chemicals...

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-..that won't leave a lasting effect.

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-So more work needs to be done.

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-So more work needs to be done.

-

-Yes, definitely.

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-# In the faint glow of the stars

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-# She stands

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-# On the threshold

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-# Of the door #

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-Next week, Damian traces

-Milford Haven's history...

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-..Elinor looks at an experiment

-to expand habitats in Marloes...

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-..and I walk along

-Newgale's shingle ridge.

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-# The birds' squawk

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-# Call me forward

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-# Foolish vanity

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-# Pull me back #

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-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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