Pennod 3 Llwybr yr Arfordir
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-Pembrokeshire's coastal path -stretches for more than 186 miles. | 0:00:36 | 0:00:41 | |
-Beginning in Amroth in the south, -it will guide us to St Dogmaels. | 0:00:41 | 0:00:46 | |
-Joining me on my journey -is naturalist Elinor Gwynn... | 0:00:49 | 0:00:52 | |
-..and poet and lecturer -Damian Walford Davies. | 0:00:53 | 0:00:56 | |
-Today, we head from Milford Haven -harbour to Newgale beach. | 0:01:02 | 0:01:07 | |
-This stretch displays -the path's rich diversity... | 0:01:10 | 0:01:14 | |
-..of landscape, wildlife -history and industry. | 0:01:14 | 0:01:18 | |
-Damian traces the history of one of -the county's most interesting towns. | 0:01:22 | 0:01:28 | |
-At the end of the 18th century... | 0:01:32 | 0:01:34 | |
-..Milford Haven was no more than -two farms, one medieval chapel... | 0:01:35 | 0:01:39 | |
-..and a collection -of fisherman's cottages. | 0:01:40 | 0:01:43 | |
-Things have changed. | 0:01:43 | 0:01:45 | |
-Here's a list for you - -Texaco, Esso, BP, LNG. | 0:01:58 | 0:02:03 | |
-Giants of the energy industry, -but a world far removed... | 0:02:04 | 0:02:08 | |
-..from the one in which Milford's -first inhabitants lived. | 0:02:08 | 0:02:13 | |
-But there is something that links -those contrasting worlds. | 0:02:13 | 0:02:17 | |
-Oil. | 0:02:18 | 0:02:19 | |
-Milford Haven was founded in 1792... | 0:02:20 | 0:02:22 | |
-..when the families of whale hunters -from the island of Nantucket... | 0:02:23 | 0:02:27 | |
-..on the Massachusetts coast... | 0:02:28 | 0:02:30 | |
-..were invited -to establish a colony here. | 0:02:30 | 0:02:33 | |
-There were several reasons -why the people of Nantucket... | 0:02:50 | 0:02:54 | |
-..were so willing to settle here. | 0:02:54 | 0:02:57 | |
-Firstly, they wanted to avoid paying -the high taxes on whale oil imports. | 0:02:57 | 0:03:03 | |
-They wanted to be closer to London, -the focal point of the industry. | 0:03:04 | 0:03:08 | |
-As Quakers and faithful servants -of the British state... | 0:03:08 | 0:03:12 | |
-..they wanted to flee -their country... | 0:03:13 | 0:03:16 | |
-..following the seven-year -War of Independence. | 0:03:16 | 0:03:19 | |
-But what were their feelings -when they landed here... | 0:03:19 | 0:03:23 | |
-..and when Milford Haven evolved -in the years that followed? | 0:03:24 | 0:03:28 | |
-Street after street and building -after building were erected. | 0:03:28 | 0:03:33 | |
-At the centre of it all -was the Quakers' meeting house. | 0:03:33 | 0:03:37 | |
-It's hard to imagine -the families of whale hunters... | 0:03:43 | 0:03:47 | |
-..leaving Nantucket -to come to Milford Haven... | 0:03:47 | 0:03:51 | |
-..and establishing -a brand-new colony. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:54 | |
-The only thing here was the sea -and safe mooring for ships nearby. | 0:03:54 | 0:04:00 | |
-It was then up to them, -along with a man named Greville... | 0:04:01 | 0:04:06 | |
-..who was responsible for looking -after Lord Hamilton's land... | 0:04:07 | 0:04:11 | |
-..to develop the town. | 0:04:11 | 0:04:13 | |
-That's precisely what they did. | 0:04:13 | 0:04:16 | |
-Whaling was a global industry. | 0:04:16 | 0:04:18 | |
-Yes, it was, -and by 1850 or thereabouts... | 0:04:18 | 0:04:23 | |
-..the Americans alone... | 0:04:23 | 0:04:26 | |
-..had a whaling fleet -of over 750 ships. | 0:04:26 | 0:04:30 | |
-It was an adventure for them to come -from Nantucket to Milford Haven. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:36 | |
-But they were whale hunters... | 0:04:36 | 0:04:39 | |
-..and would have been -accustomed to danger. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:43 | |
-Yes, indeed, and they were -thousands of miles from home. | 0:04:43 | 0:04:47 | |
-The whale is the largest mammal -in the world... | 0:04:48 | 0:04:51 | |
-..and they hunted it. | 0:04:51 | 0:04:53 | |
-We're all familiar with Moby Dick. | 0:04:53 | 0:04:56 | |
-In that novel, -there's a character called Starbuck. | 0:04:56 | 0:05:00 | |
-The Starbucks -were the first people to land here. | 0:05:00 | 0:05:04 | |
-One of them came over -to look at the place. | 0:05:04 | 0:05:08 | |
-He decided it was suitable -to live and work here. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:12 | |
-The town is littered -with names from history. | 0:05:12 | 0:05:16 | |
-It's full of names -like Nantucket Avenue... | 0:05:16 | 0:05:20 | |
-..and Priory Road. | 0:05:21 | 0:05:24 | |
-Hamilton Terrace, Charles Street -and Robert Street... | 0:05:24 | 0:05:28 | |
-..are named -after the town's founders. | 0:05:28 | 0:05:31 | |
-Unfortunately, the success of the -Milford Americans was short-lived. | 0:05:46 | 0:05:51 | |
-The world turned -to another form of fuel... | 0:05:51 | 0:05:54 | |
-..oil derived from coal -rather than whale oil. | 0:05:54 | 0:05:57 | |
-Many of the Quakers left, -some of them moving to London... | 0:05:57 | 0:06:01 | |
-..others moving back to Nantucket. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:04 | |
-Charles Greville, whose plan it was -to attract the Quakers, died. | 0:06:04 | 0:06:09 | |
-No other industry -came to fill the gap. | 0:06:10 | 0:06:13 | |
-Milford Haven had to wait -until the late Victorian era... | 0:06:13 | 0:06:18 | |
-..to enjoy another period -of industrial prosperity. | 0:06:18 | 0:06:22 | |
-So while you're sipping -your next Starbucks coffee... | 0:06:25 | 0:06:29 | |
-..spare a thought -for the other brand. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:32 | |
-The Starbuck family -from Nantucket and Milford Haven! | 0:06:32 | 0:06:36 | |
-Wildlife behaves differently -in a nature reserve... | 0:07:15 | 0:07:18 | |
-..maybe because man -doesn't pose a threat. | 0:07:19 | 0:07:23 | |
-Skomer is home -to over 300,000 birds... | 0:07:24 | 0:07:28 | |
-..including my favourite bird -in the whole world. | 0:07:28 | 0:07:32 | |
-Skomer is an old Scandinavian name -meaning cleft island. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:36 | |
-From afar, the island looks -as if it has been split in two. | 0:07:37 | 0:07:41 | |
-I was 14 years old when I first -came to Skomer to study birds. | 0:07:43 | 0:07:48 | |
-Something happened then -that has stayed with me. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:52 | |
-It was the first time I fell in love -with the idea of islands. | 0:07:52 | 0:07:56 | |
-There is something very strange -about islands. | 0:07:59 | 0:08:03 | |
-Here, I'm a prisoner, -surrounded by the sea... | 0:08:03 | 0:08:07 | |
-..yet I feel completely free. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:10 | |
-Over time, people have come here -in search of various things. | 0:08:12 | 0:08:16 | |
-The Vikings searched for bounty -along the Pembrokeshire coastline. | 0:08:16 | 0:08:21 | |
-Rabbits were farmed here -in Norman times and later. | 0:08:21 | 0:08:25 | |
-Nowadays, people come here -to observe wildlife. | 0:08:25 | 0:08:29 | |
-It's all around. | 0:08:29 | 0:08:30 | |
-Although there are many species -of birds on Skomer... | 0:08:44 | 0:08:48 | |
-..people throng here -to see the puffin. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:51 | |
-There is something -very special about it. | 0:08:52 | 0:08:54 | |
-It's like a seaside clown -with its mischievous and sad eyes. | 0:08:55 | 0:09:00 | |
-Then there's the triangular beak, -which is fantastic... | 0:09:00 | 0:09:05 | |
-..for burrowing -and attracting a mate... | 0:09:05 | 0:09:08 | |
-..but mostly for catching fish. | 0:09:09 | 0:09:11 | |
-Rabbits and puffins have left -their mark on the landscape. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:31 | |
-One particular type of bird -has taken full advantage of this. | 0:09:31 | 0:09:36 | |
-Manx shearwaters nest -in old rabbit burrows. | 0:09:36 | 0:09:40 | |
-In order to see this bird... | 0:09:40 | 0:09:43 | |
-..we have to wait until nightfall. | 0:09:44 | 0:09:47 | |
-LOUD SQUAWKING | 0:09:53 | 0:09:55 | |
-Manx shearwaters return to shore -around midnight. | 0:10:02 | 0:10:07 | |
-They return to the island to rest... | 0:10:13 | 0:10:15 | |
-..and to feed their mate -in the underground nest. | 0:10:16 | 0:10:19 | |
-But it wouldn't be safe -to return by moonlight... | 0:10:22 | 0:10:25 | |
-..because seagulls -wait outside the hole... | 0:10:26 | 0:10:29 | |
-..ready to pounce and ravage them. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:32 | |
-When the Vikings landed -on the Isle of Man... | 0:10:44 | 0:10:48 | |
-..this is the noise they heard. | 0:10:48 | 0:10:50 | |
-LOUD SQUAWKING | 0:10:51 | 0:10:53 | |
-They thought it was the cry -of dead sailors. | 0:10:55 | 0:10:59 | |
-But it's the noise -of the colony... | 0:10:59 | 0:11:03 | |
-..saying, -"Come in from the open sea. | 0:11:04 | 0:11:07 | |
-"There are plenty of us here, -so it's safe." | 0:11:07 | 0:11:11 | |
-The birds on Skomer -are happy to fly to Ireland... | 0:11:16 | 0:11:21 | |
-..to forage for food every day. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:23 | |
-As summertime ends... | 0:11:23 | 0:11:26 | |
-..they migrate across the South -Atlantic to Argentina and Brazil. | 0:11:26 | 0:11:31 | |
-They are real pilgrims. | 0:11:31 | 0:11:33 | |
-This isn't their natural habitat. | 0:11:33 | 0:11:36 | |
-They are seabirds -of the great ocean. | 0:11:36 | 0:11:39 | |
-. | 0:11:47 | 0:11:47 | |
-888 | 0:11:55 | 0:11:55 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:11:55 | 0:11:57 | |
-Our journey -along the coastal path continues. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:04 | |
-Elinor Gwynn -visits the Marloes Peninsula. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:08 | |
-Visitors tend to hurry -across the Marloes Peninsula... | 0:12:13 | 0:12:17 | |
-..to catch a boat across to Skomer. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:20 | |
-But it's a fascinating peninsula. | 0:12:21 | 0:12:24 | |
-If you have time -before catching the boat... | 0:12:24 | 0:12:27 | |
-..the Deer Park is worth a visit. | 0:12:27 | 0:12:30 | |
-It's unlikely -that deer have ever lived here... | 0:12:30 | 0:12:34 | |
-..but the stone wall -that runs along the headland... | 0:12:34 | 0:12:37 | |
-..was built -by Lord Kensington in 1847. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:40 | |
-But for 20 years, ponies, sheep -and cattle have grazed here... | 0:12:41 | 0:12:45 | |
-..as part of a project -to restore coastal habitats. | 0:12:45 | 0:12:48 | |
-It's been years since I was -last here, and it's changed a lot. | 0:12:58 | 0:13:03 | |
-My first job after college was with -the National Trust in Pembrokeshire. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:08 | |
-My main task was to restore habitats -along the coastline. | 0:13:08 | 0:13:13 | |
-This was one of the first places -I was assigned to. | 0:13:13 | 0:13:17 | |
-The middle of the plateau -was choked by brambles, ferns... | 0:13:17 | 0:13:22 | |
-..and thick vegetation. | 0:13:22 | 0:13:24 | |
-We set about cutting down -the dense overgrowth... | 0:13:24 | 0:13:29 | |
-..with a small tractor -and chains swirling about behind it. | 0:13:29 | 0:13:33 | |
-I came back year after year -to check the plateau... | 0:13:33 | 0:13:37 | |
-..and it was a success. | 0:13:37 | 0:13:40 | |
-It's wonderful -to see heather and gorse... | 0:13:40 | 0:13:44 | |
-..providing a habitat -for a better diversity of wildlife. | 0:13:44 | 0:13:49 | |
-The marked difference today -compared with when I left... | 0:13:49 | 0:13:53 | |
-..is the carpet of bluebells -on the heathland. | 0:13:54 | 0:13:58 | |
-Although I left a long time ago... | 0:14:05 | 0:14:07 | |
-..it's nice to know -that the work we did has paid off. | 0:14:07 | 0:14:12 | |
-Tell us about what's been happening -over the past twelve years. | 0:14:12 | 0:14:17 | |
-The work you began made us realize -how important it was to continue... | 0:14:17 | 0:14:22 | |
-..and build on that work. | 0:14:22 | 0:14:24 | |
-We want to reintroduce -grazing control. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:28 | |
-Grazing pasture -is incredibly important. | 0:14:28 | 0:14:31 | |
-Since World War II... | 0:14:31 | 0:14:33 | |
-..all the energy, -enthusiasm and resources... | 0:14:33 | 0:14:38 | |
-..have been ploughed -into agricultural land. | 0:14:38 | 0:14:41 | |
-To a large extent, this type of land -has been neglected... | 0:14:42 | 0:14:45 | |
-..to the detriment of wildlife. | 0:14:46 | 0:14:49 | |
-The farming community has lost the -skills required to control the land. | 0:14:49 | 0:14:54 | |
-It's down to a combination -of financial help... | 0:14:54 | 0:14:58 | |
-..practical help with stock... | 0:14:58 | 0:15:01 | |
-..and the creation -of a grazing network... | 0:15:01 | 0:15:04 | |
-..to enable landowners to keep -suitable stock on the land. | 0:15:04 | 0:15:10 | |
-Over time, farmers became -more comfortable with the idea. | 0:15:16 | 0:15:22 | |
-They bought their own stock... | 0:15:22 | 0:15:25 | |
-..in order to make it -a sustainable venture. | 0:15:25 | 0:15:28 | |
-A unique experiment is taking place -on the Marloes Peninsula. | 0:15:33 | 0:15:38 | |
-It's being carried out -on Trehill Farm. | 0:15:38 | 0:15:41 | |
-Trehill is a National Trust farm. | 0:15:43 | 0:15:46 | |
-It was decided -that there was scope here... | 0:15:46 | 0:15:49 | |
-..to create a new habitat, -but not quite from scratch. | 0:15:49 | 0:15:53 | |
-Before the coastal path opened... | 0:15:54 | 0:15:56 | |
-..there would have been heathlands -along the cliffs. | 0:15:57 | 0:16:01 | |
-The ultimate aim -was to recreate old habitats. | 0:16:01 | 0:16:05 | |
-In order to fulfil -this incredibly ambitious goal... | 0:16:09 | 0:16:13 | |
-..various techniques were used -on different parts of the headland. | 0:16:13 | 0:16:18 | |
-This area has received -the full treatment. | 0:16:20 | 0:16:23 | |
-It was once just vegetation -with fertile soil. | 0:16:24 | 0:16:27 | |
-In order to change -the composition of the soil... | 0:16:28 | 0:16:31 | |
-..and enable heathland -and coastal grasses to grow... | 0:16:31 | 0:16:35 | |
-..the topsoil was removed. | 0:16:35 | 0:16:37 | |
-Sulphuric waste from the Texaco -oil refinery was dispersed. | 0:16:37 | 0:16:43 | |
-Bright yellow remnants -can still be found here today. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:48 | |
-Heather cuttings were taken -from mountains near Treffgarne. | 0:16:48 | 0:16:53 | |
-Plants such as the sea campion -are beginning to take hold. | 0:16:55 | 0:17:00 | |
-There are both heathlands -and grasslands... | 0:17:00 | 0:17:04 | |
-..on this part of the coastline. | 0:17:04 | 0:17:07 | |
-This experiment shows how important -it is to show initiative... | 0:17:07 | 0:17:13 | |
-..and develop new ideas -to learn from the experience... | 0:17:14 | 0:17:18 | |
-..so that we are better placed -to preserve wildlife in future. | 0:17:18 | 0:17:23 | |
-There are many tales of land -being swallowed by the sea. | 0:17:50 | 0:17:55 | |
-The most famous is Cantre'r Gwaelod. | 0:17:55 | 0:17:58 | |
-But it may be an ancient memory -rather than a legend... | 0:17:58 | 0:18:02 | |
-..about a time when the tide -created the coastline. | 0:18:02 | 0:18:06 | |
-Interestingly, -places are still disappearing today. | 0:18:07 | 0:18:11 | |
-When Gerald of Wales came here -on his travels in 1188... | 0:18:46 | 0:18:51 | |
-..he recalled a storm -that had occurred 20 years earlier. | 0:18:52 | 0:18:55 | |
-The powerful wind covered the land -in a blanket of sand. | 0:18:56 | 0:18:59 | |
-It also uncovered a primitive forest -underneath the waves. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:04 | |
-The sea was so ferocious -that fish landed in hedgerows. | 0:19:05 | 0:19:10 | |
-People were able to catch them -from the branches. | 0:19:11 | 0:19:14 | |
-You moved here in 1965, Roy. | 0:19:19 | 0:19:22 | |
-You've seen some changes -in the landscape. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:26 | |
-Do you think -there will come a time... | 0:19:26 | 0:19:29 | |
-..when the village behind us -will disappear? | 0:19:30 | 0:19:34 | |
-The low-lying land -will be the first to go. | 0:19:34 | 0:19:37 | |
-The sea has already caused them -a few problems. | 0:19:38 | 0:19:43 | |
-You wouldn't believe the force -of the sea in the 1989 storm. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:55 | |
-The sea came up through the river. | 0:19:55 | 0:19:59 | |
-There used to be a garage there. | 0:19:59 | 0:20:02 | |
-I saw it being lifted and carried -over the bridge to the other side. | 0:20:02 | 0:20:08 | |
-It was totally destroyed. | 0:20:08 | 0:20:10 | |
-Another wave came and crashed -through the cafe's window. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:15 | |
-As the centuries go by... | 0:20:22 | 0:20:25 | |
-..this natural embankment -of gravel and pebbles... | 0:20:26 | 0:20:30 | |
-..is gradually disappearing. | 0:20:30 | 0:20:32 | |
-Thousands and thousands -of pebbles down here... | 0:20:33 | 0:20:38 | |
-..protect us from the sea. | 0:20:39 | 0:20:41 | |
-But they're shifting. | 0:20:41 | 0:20:43 | |
-When there's a high tide... | 0:20:44 | 0:20:47 | |
-..they disappear. | 0:20:47 | 0:20:50 | |
-They rebuild it, -but it's never the same as it was. | 0:20:50 | 0:20:55 | |
-It's impossible to do that. | 0:20:55 | 0:20:57 | |
-The level of the water drops... | 0:20:57 | 0:21:01 | |
-..but the stones -are shifting inland. | 0:21:02 | 0:21:04 | |
-Will we eventually lose the road? | 0:21:06 | 0:21:10 | |
-You should never, ever, -take the sea for granted. | 0:21:14 | 0:21:19 | |
-On a sunny day... | 0:21:19 | 0:21:22 | |
-..people go swimming -and surfers come here. | 0:21:22 | 0:21:26 | |
-There could be 50 of them here... | 0:21:26 | 0:21:29 | |
-..but in the blink of an eye, -someone can get into difficulties. | 0:21:29 | 0:21:34 | |
-You can't describe -the force of the sea. | 0:21:38 | 0:21:41 | |
-It will always win in the end. | 0:21:41 | 0:21:44 | |
-Far north of here in the Arctic, -the ice caps are melting. | 0:22:07 | 0:22:13 | |
-Sea levels are rising -and swallowing land. | 0:22:14 | 0:22:18 | |
-It's happening here gradually -- around a centimetre a year. | 0:22:18 | 0:22:23 | |
-Ultimately, the sea will claim -around 300 metres of the mainland. | 0:22:23 | 0:22:27 | |
-The shop, the cafe -and the pub will disappear. | 0:22:28 | 0:22:31 | |
-A modern take on Cantre'r Gwaelod. | 0:22:31 | 0:22:34 | |
-Next week, Damian finds artists... | 0:22:49 | 0:22:51 | |
-..who have been captivated -and enchanted by the county. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:55 | |
-Elinor visits St David's Head... | 0:22:55 | 0:22:57 | |
-..and I trace the history -of the region's ports. | 0:22:58 | 0:23:02 | |
-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf. | 0:23:31 | 0:23:33 | |
-. | 0:23:33 | 0:23:33 |
