Pennod 4 Llwybr yr Arfordir


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-Pembrokeshire's coastal path

-stretches for more than 186 miles.

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-Beginning in Amroth in the south...

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-..it will guide us

-to St Dogmaels in the north.

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-Joining me on my journey

-is naturalist Elinor Gwynn...

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-..and poet and lecturer

-Damian Walford Davies.

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-This week, we follow the path

-from Solva to Whitesands.

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-In 1942, artist Graham Sutherland...

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-..described the appeal

-of Pembrokeshire for artists...

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-..especially St David's Head.

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-He wrote the following.

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-"The quality of light

-is magical and transformational.

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-"As I stare at the sun's rays

-striking a distant slope...

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-"..I feel the tranquillity which

-follows an explosion of light.

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-"This is what is experienced

-when one looks at the sun...

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-"..and turns away suddenly."

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-Since the 18th century...

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-..artists from all backgrounds

-have been drawn here.

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-Each one responds

-to an ancient landscape...

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-..which is transformed

-thousands of times a day...

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-..by that magical light

-caught between land and sea.

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-Linda Norris

-settled in Pembrokeshire in 1993.

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-She's an artist

-who paints the wind and light.

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-Her artwork is distinctive.

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-They depict a turbulent sea

-and a brooding sky...

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-..that suggest an impending

-or passing storm.

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-What attracted you to Pembrokeshire?

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-I came to Pembrokeshire

-originally...

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-..because I'm fond

-of the wild landscape...

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-..the incredible light

-and the colours.

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-I draw my inspiration

-from the landscape, the weather...

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-..and the seasons.

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-How do you go about your work?

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-When I first moved

-to Pembrokeshire in 1993...

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-..I worked outdoors

-on the landscape itself for years...

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-..just to get to know the colours...

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-..the light...

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-..and the geography.

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-But I now work indoors

-in the studio...

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-..because I'm interested...

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-..in portraying feelings

-rather than details.

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-You're currently experimenting

-with paintings...

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-..from an aerial perspective.

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-What's your reason for this?

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-For me, it's very interesting...

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-..to get

-a very different perspective...

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-..of the landscape

-with which I'm familiar.

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-I've worked for many years

-amid the landscape...

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-..but it's different

-looking down on it from above.

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-It has opened up a different world.

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-It has opened up a different world.

-

-Yes, it has.

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-We're here in Caerfai Bay,

-south of St David's.

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-It's an incredible location,

-so my question seems odd.

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-What attracts you

-to this special place?

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-I love the edge, the boundary

-between land that has been tended...

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-..and that which has eroded.

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-That's part of the appeal.

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-But it's also down

-to the time of day.

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-You can look out

-first thing in the morning...

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-..and think you're seeing the shape

-of a church lychgate.

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-But later in the day...

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-..it looks more like columns.

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-It's very inspiring...

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-..as is the land

-during those precious moments...

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-..when the sun

-and the clouds move across it.

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-You become very aware

-of the time of day.

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-In order to capture

-those precious moments...

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-..what do you do?

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-Do you sketch?

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-I draw a few sketches, but I tend

-to stick to the same routine.

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-I usually come out on my own

-and spend the entire day here.

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-I'll take this with me.

-This is my sketchbook.

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-It allows me

-to collect so much information.

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-Much more than if I were

-to sit in one spot all day.

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-The camera can record

-any sudden changes in the landscape.

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-I'll then go back to the studio...

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-..and work from maybe three, four

-or five photographs that I've taken.

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-I make an effort to make sure

-the colours are very transparent.

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-I stick to just three colours.

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-I layer pure colours

-on top of each other.

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-It gives a similar effect

-to light streaming through glass.

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-What attracts you

-to this geographical edge?

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-Is it out of genuine concern?

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-It's definitely a concern of mine...

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-..because it's happening

-on a gradual scale.

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-We should be aware of the fact

-that our land is disappearing.

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-A distant relative of mine

-remembers sheep grazing...

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-..on a section of this coastline.

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-That land

-is no longer accessible on foot.

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-It has been separated

-from the mainland.

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-The path itself

-is also causing erosion.

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-It's becoming wider and wider.

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-When I used to come here

-years ago...

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-..the path was narrow

-and neatly kept.

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-But it's now becoming

-more like the M4.

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-Much has been written

-about the history of St David...

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-..but little is known about Non,

-our patron saint's mother.

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-Who was this woman?

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-She was known by different names

-- Non, Nonnita and Nonna.

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-She belonged to a noble family

-with strong links to Ireland.

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-She was a nun at Ty Gwyn,

-a few miles along the coast.

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-Legend has it that she was raped

-by Sanctus, King of Ceredigion...

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-..and that she came to this field

-when it was time to give birth.

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-It was a wild and stormy day.

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-But in the field

-in which David was born...

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-..it was a summer's day,

-with sunshine and blue skies.

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-A small chapel was erected

-in the spot where David was born.

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-It became an important place

-for pilgrims heading to St David's.

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-During the Middle Ages,

-two pilgrimages to St David's...

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-..were equivalent

-to one pilgrimage to Rome.

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-The pilgrims' generous donations

-filled the cathedral's coffers.

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-There are many stories about Non.

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-According to legend, this well

-appeared the second David was born.

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-Another legend claims

-it was her reason for coming here.

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-Women believed that the water

-would ease the pain of childbirth.

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-Over the years,

-the water has been used...

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-..to treat rheumatism

-and eye diseases.

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-People still come here

-to throw money into the well.

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-The nearby chapel

-isn't all that old.

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-It was built in 1938 and dedicated

-to both St Mary and St Non.

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-How many facts

-do we know about her?

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-Written records began

-500 years after her lifetime.

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-It's difficult to say

-who this historical figure was.

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-People have always wondered

-if she was a real woman...

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-..who lived in this area.

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-It's impossible to say

-due to the lack of early sources.

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-But what's interesting for me...

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-..is that Welsh people in the Middle

-Ages regarded her as a real person.

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-A delightful 15th century poem

-by Lewys Glyn Cothi...

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-..refers to Edudful,

-daughter of Cadwgan...

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-..coming here on a pilgrimage

-and bathing in the well's water.

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-"On Sunday, Edudful comes

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-"To pray sincerely to God

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-"She visits Non's Church

-and bathes her head in the well

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-"Raises her hands merrily

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-"Worships the holy image."

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-Apart from this chapel and well...

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-..at least two Welsh churches

-have been named after her.

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-But her grave is in Brittany.

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-Yes, but the grave in Brittany

-dates to the 15th century.

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-Non died some 600 years earlier.

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-When the legend was passed on

-from Wales to Brittany...

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-..Non became perceived

-as a native of Brittany.

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-They claim she felt a strong sense

-of guilt after she was raped...

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-..so she fled to Brittany.

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-There's a beautiful statue of her...

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-..wearing a nun's headdress,

-lying gracefully on top of the tomb.

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-All these versions of her story...

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-..along with various artefacts

-and churches named in her honour...

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-..suggest that Non

-was an important figure.

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-She was important, in the sense

-that she represented a holy figure.

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-Medieval Christians

-truly believed she had powers.

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-It was easier to devote prayers...

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-..to a Welsh woman

-with local links...

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-..rather than praying

-directly to heaven.

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-Whatever we think about her

-as a historical figure...

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-..what's important to me is the

-wealth of mythology surrounding her.

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-She's part of our heritage

-and should be celebrated as such.

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-On the second leg

-of this evening's journey...

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-..Elinor visits St David's Head.

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-There are many rare plants

-along the coastline...

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-..but few

-are lucky enough to see them.

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-But sometimes

-it's the commonest plants...

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-..that create

-the biggest impression.

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-Take gorse, for example,

-which is ubiquitous along the shore.

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-This spiny evergreen shrub

-belongs to the clover family.

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-It's as if it flowers

-all year long...

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-..but it's at its best

-in early summer...

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-..when its coconut scent

-fills the air on a sunny day.

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-I'm also fond of it

-in late summer...

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-..when the seed pods

-crunch under foot.

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-People assume that gorse

-blossoms throughout the year...

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-..because there are two types.

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-Both types blossom

-at different times of the year.

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-The first Welsh reference

-to gorse...

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-..is in the 12th century

-Black Book Of St David's.

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-The document probably referred

-to this, our native western gorse.

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-It grows near to the ground...

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-..and forms wave-like patterns

-amid the heather.

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-Western gorse

-flowers in July and August.

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-The other type of gorse

-found in Wales is French gorse.

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-It was introduced more recently...

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-..and flowers earlier in the year.

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-Between these two species, it seems

-that gorse is always in bloom.

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-Gorse has been useful

-through the ages.

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-It has been used

-for various purposes.

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-The flowers

-have been used to dye wool.

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-Gorse's main purpose was to provide

-sustenance for animals.

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-Some unusual plants can be found

-growing among the gorse.

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-One of them is dodder.

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-It's a remarkable plant.

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-It contains no chlorophyll.

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-It grows parasitically on gorse.

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-It is a very rare plant

-and grows sporadically...

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-..on the south coast of England.

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-This is the only spot I know of

-in Wales where it grows.

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-It grows like a spider's web...

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-..or stretched strings of toffee.

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-In late summer...

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-..white pompom-like flowers

-grow along these red strings.

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-Through the ages, the harbours

-have been trading centres...

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-..and important locations

-for events and visitors.

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-One of the most prominent harbours

-also happens to be the prettiest.

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-At one time,

-Solva was a hive of activity.

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-During the 19th century,

-as many as 36 ships docked here...

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-..transporting goods such as wood,

-limestone and butter.

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-This was also the centre

-of a sinister industry...

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-..where ships would be lured

-to run aground on its rocks.

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-People would flock here

-to steal the cargo...

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-..and in the process,

-steal their souls.

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-They lured ships by hanging

-a lantern on a cow's tail.

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-That would swing back and forth.

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-They would also light lamps

-in their homes to lure ships.

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-It caused them to run aground

-on nearby rocks.

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-Their evil actions bore fruit.

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-At night, they would strip people

-of their clothes.

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-They even cut off people's fingers

-to steal their rings.

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-Apparently, during that time...

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-..the people of Solva

-had cupboards in their homes....

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-..in which stolen goods were hidden.

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-Contraband cupboards, if you like.

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-There was even a story

-about a local vicar...

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-..who would pray

-in the following way.

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-"Please send a shipwreck our way.

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-"Please let us be first

-on the scene."

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-Porthclais is a shining example

-of a harbour's importance.

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-It was the nearest harbour

-to St David's.

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-All the city's goods

-would pass through here.

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-What was Porthclais like

-in its heyday?

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-The history of Porthclais...

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-..dates back to Roman times.

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-But it became a hive of activity

-in the Middle Ages...

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-..because it was the only harbour

-close to St David's.

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-The cathedral was being built...

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-..and wood and stone

-were transported by boat.

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-The stone came from Caerfai Bay.

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-It was a very busy period.

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-There are lime kilns

-everywhere here.

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-The ships sailed into harbour,

-carrying limestone and coal.

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-Each harbour

-had at least one lime kiln.

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-Lime was so important for the land

-and for construction.

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-The cathedral itself...

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-..was built using lime

-from the kiln in Porthclais.

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-Trading ceased in the harbours

-when the railways came.

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-An industry of a different kind

-has now taken its place.

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-Where people were once busy...

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-..transporting,

-harvesting and producing...

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-..they now relax

-and enjoy themselves.

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-Unlike Solva...

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-..where sailors were lured

-onto the rocks...

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-..St Justinian has a long tradition

-of rescuing sailors.

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-A lifeboat has operated here

-since 1869.

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-We're usually called out...

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-..around 40-45 times a year.

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-We have to deal

-with all kinds of incidents...

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-..involving swimmers, tankers...

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-..fishing boats and sailing boats.

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-It is obviously in your blood.

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-Your father and grandfather

-were lifeboatmen.

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-My grandfather started in 1936.

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-Some years later, my father

-became a lifeboat coxswain.

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-They say it's in the blood...

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-..so I'm here now too.

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-It's in the blood

-but things change.

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-Boats change and you're about

-to see a big change here.

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-The station is moving.

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-Yes, we hope to have a new boat

-in three or four years' time.

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-We'll need a new station

-to house a bigger boat.

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-The current station

-is over 100 years old.

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-Things move on.

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-We have to move with the times.

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-On a sunny day,

-it's hard to imagine...

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-..the ferocity of the waves.

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-St Justinian is very busy.

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-All kinds of vessels

-sail along the shore.

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-Passengers are ferried

-from here to Ramsey Island...

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-..on regular day trips.

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-The Pembrokeshire coast

-is awash with small harbours.

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-Each one looks like

-a perfect picture postcard.

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-Each one has its own story.

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-Places for smugglers to hide.

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-Places to import and export

-all kinds of cargo.

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-Most importantly,

-they offer shelter from storms.

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-Next week, Elinor ventures

-into the water at Abereiddy...

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-..Damian shares his interest

-in megalithic tombs...

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-..and I cover

-an unexpected topic - slavery.

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-# Before long, we'll be swimming

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-# Before long,

-we'll be swimming in the sea

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-# Have you ever danced?

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-# Have you ever danced

-across the sea?

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-# Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh

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-# Oh, oh, oh, oh,

-oh, oh, oh, oh, oh, oh #

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-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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