Pennod 5 Llwybr yr Arfordir
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-Pembrokeshire's coastal path -stretches for more than 186 miles. | 0:00:38 | 0:00:43 | |
-Beginning in Amroth in the south... | 0:00:44 | 0:00:46 | |
-..it will guide me -to St Dogmaels in the north. | 0:00:46 | 0:00:50 | |
-Joining me -are naturalist Elinor Gwynn... | 0:00:52 | 0:00:55 | |
-..and poet and lecturer -Damian Walford Davies. | 0:00:56 | 0:00:59 | |
-This week, we explore the area -between Abereiddy and Dinas Cross. | 0:01:01 | 0:01:06 | |
-Pembrokeshire's coastal path... | 0:01:24 | 0:01:26 | |
-..leads people to picturesque -and historical places... | 0:01:27 | 0:01:30 | |
-..such as this old quarry... | 0:01:31 | 0:01:33 | |
-..a few miles north -of St David's. | 0:01:33 | 0:01:36 | |
-The quarry opened in 1840. | 0:01:39 | 0:01:42 | |
-It supplied slate, -both locally and further afield. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:47 | |
-By 1904, the industry was in decline -and the quarry closed down. | 0:01:47 | 0:01:52 | |
-Local fishermen blasted a channel -through to the sea... | 0:01:52 | 0:01:56 | |
-..in order to create a safe haven. | 0:01:57 | 0:01:59 | |
-Between the grey of the rocks -and the reflected blue of the sky... | 0:01:59 | 0:02:03 | |
-..it's no wonder the place -has been nicknamed the Blue Lagoon. | 0:02:04 | 0:02:08 | |
-The slate started out as fine silt. | 0:02:13 | 0:02:16 | |
-It slowly sank into a tropical sea -millions of years ago. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:20 | |
-But Abereiddy slate -was of poor quality. | 0:02:22 | 0:02:26 | |
-Abereiddy slate used for roof tiles -only lasted 40 years. | 0:02:26 | 0:02:31 | |
-Caernarfonshire slate -lasted for more than 100 years. | 0:02:31 | 0:02:35 | |
-However, the slate was still used -locally and was also exported... | 0:02:36 | 0:02:40 | |
-..to the south-west of England -and to cities like Bristol. | 0:02:40 | 0:02:44 | |
-These seven cottages... | 0:02:51 | 0:02:53 | |
-..were built by quarry owners -for the quarrymen in 1840. | 0:02:54 | 0:02:58 | |
-They were simple, -two-roomed cottages. | 0:02:58 | 0:03:02 | |
-According to the 1851 census, -16 people lived here... | 0:03:02 | 0:03:08 | |
-..mainly men in their 20s and 30s. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:10 | |
-Interestingly, most of them -came from North Wales. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:15 | |
-This row of cottages -was referred to as The Street. | 0:03:16 | 0:03:20 | |
-But during a prosperous period -in the quarry's history... | 0:03:20 | 0:03:24 | |
-..the street was known -as Little Brighton... | 0:03:24 | 0:03:27 | |
-..which was -a much more impressive name. | 0:03:28 | 0:03:31 | |
-But The Street's history -came to an end in 1938... | 0:03:32 | 0:03:35 | |
-..when a torrential storm -tore through the village. | 0:03:35 | 0:03:39 | |
-It flooded this entire street. | 0:03:40 | 0:03:42 | |
-Around the same time, the village -suffered an outbreak of typhoid. | 0:03:42 | 0:03:47 | |
-Abereiddy has seen a lot of comings -and goings over the years... | 0:03:50 | 0:03:54 | |
-..as a direct result of industry. | 0:03:54 | 0:03:57 | |
-But the place -is still popular with tourists... | 0:03:57 | 0:04:00 | |
-..who walk along the many paths -of this wonderful coastline. | 0:04:01 | 0:04:05 | |
-Whoaaaa! | 0:04:05 | 0:04:07 | |
-As a National Park warden... | 0:04:09 | 0:04:12 | |
-..have you noticed increased use -of the path over the years? | 0:04:12 | 0:04:16 | |
-Yes, it has been used much more -over the past 10-15 years... | 0:04:16 | 0:04:21 | |
-..with people enjoying the open air. | 0:04:21 | 0:04:24 | |
-We've also noticed -an increase in outdoor pursuits. | 0:04:25 | 0:04:28 | |
-Do these new activities -have a damaging effect? | 0:04:29 | 0:04:33 | |
-Some of these activities -can pose an adverse risk... | 0:04:33 | 0:04:37 | |
-..but we work closely -with outdoor pursuits companies... | 0:04:37 | 0:04:41 | |
-..in partnership with the National -Trust and the Countryside Council. | 0:04:41 | 0:04:46 | |
-We regularly hold -Outdoor Charter Group meetings... | 0:04:46 | 0:04:50 | |
-..to discuss pursuits and sites. | 0:04:51 | 0:04:54 | |
-What sort of numbers do pursuits -such as coasteering attract? | 0:04:54 | 0:04:59 | |
-Interest in coasteering -has skyrocketed. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:03 | |
-At one time, there were 200 people -here on any given day. | 0:05:03 | 0:05:08 | |
-Because of that, a licence system -has since been introduced. | 0:05:08 | 0:05:13 | |
-Now the companies book a slot... | 0:05:13 | 0:05:15 | |
-..so that we can cap the numbers... | 0:05:16 | 0:05:18 | |
-..on a given day. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:20 | |
-In terms of increased footfall -on the path... | 0:05:20 | 0:05:24 | |
-..are there signs of erosion? | 0:05:25 | 0:05:27 | |
-Yes, there is some erosion... | 0:05:27 | 0:05:29 | |
-..due to the high increase -in visitor numbers and the weather. | 0:05:30 | 0:05:35 | |
-We assess the path once a year. | 0:05:40 | 0:05:42 | |
-One person walks the path to compare -the erosion in different places. | 0:05:42 | 0:05:48 | |
-We assess the worst affected areas -so that they can be addressed... | 0:05:48 | 0:05:53 | |
-..and resources put in place. | 0:05:54 | 0:05:55 | |
-I like the sound -of walking the path once a year! | 0:05:56 | 0:05:59 | |
-Sadly, that's not down to me. | 0:05:59 | 0:06:01 | |
-If you're looking for someone, -I'd like to volunteer. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:05 | |
-OK, I'll let them know! | 0:06:05 | 0:06:07 | |
-Cromlechs and standing stones -are features of the landscape... | 0:06:29 | 0:06:33 | |
-..signifying the mystery of birth, -marriage and death... | 0:06:34 | 0:06:38 | |
-..of the coast's old inhabitants -from 5,000 years ago. | 0:06:38 | 0:06:42 | |
-I've always been fascinated -by cromlechs and standing stones. | 0:06:50 | 0:06:54 | |
-Friends don't understand -my obsession. | 0:06:54 | 0:06:57 | |
-Why am I so fond of them? | 0:06:57 | 0:07:00 | |
-Because each has its own -unique character and presence. | 0:07:00 | 0:07:04 | |
-Some are like clumsy dinosaurs -clambering out of the sea. | 0:07:05 | 0:07:09 | |
-Others are more elegant -and dignified. | 0:07:09 | 0:07:12 | |
-there are those -that have deteriorated over time. | 0:07:12 | 0:07:16 | |
-Carreg Samson near Abercastle... | 0:07:25 | 0:07:28 | |
-..on the coastal path -is one of the dinosaurs. | 0:07:28 | 0:07:32 | |
-The deceased's ashes would be -scattered in this burial chamber. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:37 | |
-Notice the enormous capstone. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:43 | |
-Originally, -it would have been hidden... | 0:07:43 | 0:07:46 | |
-..covered by a mound -of earth and stones. | 0:07:47 | 0:07:49 | |
-The site is extremely significant. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:52 | |
-A cromlech was located -to mark a tribe's territory. | 0:07:54 | 0:07:59 | |
-How did Neolithic engineers -lift this capstone? | 0:08:04 | 0:08:08 | |
-Even now, no-one is sure. | 0:08:08 | 0:08:10 | |
-Local legend has it that a saint -called Samson erected it. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:14 | |
-He broke his little finger -in the process. | 0:08:14 | 0:08:17 | |
-It was placed -underneath this huge stone. | 0:08:17 | 0:08:20 | |
-Carreg Samson is known locally -as the Grave Of Samson's Finger. | 0:08:20 | 0:08:25 | |
-It was quite a little finger! | 0:08:25 | 0:08:27 | |
-Cromlechs aren't the only stones -visible in Pembrokeshire. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:43 | |
-They share the land with cousins -who are 2,000 years younger. | 0:08:43 | 0:08:47 | |
-The standing stones. | 0:08:49 | 0:08:51 | |
-At 2.7 metres high, Rhos-y-Clegyrn -standing stone is quite a sight... | 0:08:54 | 0:08:58 | |
-..and even more so -with a covering of lichen. | 0:08:59 | 0:09:02 | |
-It's believed there were -two stones here at one time... | 0:09:02 | 0:09:06 | |
-..with a pavement -of circular stones between them. | 0:09:06 | 0:09:10 | |
-Charred human remains were found -beneath the supposed pavement. | 0:09:11 | 0:09:15 | |
-Whatever its architectural design... | 0:09:15 | 0:09:18 | |
-..it's obvious that Rhos-y-Clegyrn -was an auspicious ceremonial site. | 0:09:18 | 0:09:22 | |
-It's easy to get a feel -for the past here. | 0:09:30 | 0:09:33 | |
-Imagine the scene - -flames burning, chanting... | 0:09:33 | 0:09:37 | |
-..ceremonies conducted -within a stone circle. | 0:09:37 | 0:09:41 | |
-And a final farewell -to a member of the tribe. | 0:09:41 | 0:09:44 | |
-This is St Gwyndaf's Church -in Llanwnda on Strumble Head. | 0:10:12 | 0:10:17 | |
-When the church -was restored in 1881... | 0:10:17 | 0:10:20 | |
-..six stones from the ninth century -were discovered. | 0:10:20 | 0:10:24 | |
-Five of them -were in the church's exterior wall. | 0:10:24 | 0:10:28 | |
-Four of them were decorated -with simple crosses. | 0:10:29 | 0:10:33 | |
-Each of these stones -acts like a small window... | 0:10:38 | 0:10:41 | |
-..on the rich history of this site. | 0:10:41 | 0:10:45 | |
-The fifth stone -may be the most interesting. | 0:11:02 | 0:11:05 | |
-It was carved -for the monks who lived here. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:08 | |
-A face is visible here. | 0:11:09 | 0:11:11 | |
-Here are the eyes, -the nose and mouth. | 0:11:11 | 0:11:14 | |
-Four lines for the hair, -falling over the cheeks and ears. | 0:11:15 | 0:11:19 | |
-At the top -is the Cross of St Andrew. | 0:11:20 | 0:11:23 | |
-The question is, whose face is it? | 0:11:23 | 0:11:26 | |
-A woman's face? A monk's face? | 0:11:26 | 0:11:28 | |
-Or the face of Christ? | 0:11:28 | 0:11:30 | |
-Who knows? | 0:11:30 | 0:11:32 | |
-As well as outside, this church -also has ancient stones inside. | 0:11:48 | 0:11:53 | |
-There's one on each window sill. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:56 | |
-The old monk still watches -over his flock from the beam. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:01 | |
-To me, these stones -aren't cold and morbid slabs. | 0:12:07 | 0:12:11 | |
-They represent living presences -that are rooted, unlike ourselves... | 0:12:12 | 0:12:17 | |
-..in their homeland. | 0:12:17 | 0:12:19 | |
-Despite every effort -by scientists... | 0:12:19 | 0:12:22 | |
-..historians and writers -to demystify them... | 0:12:23 | 0:12:28 | |
-..the mysticism remains. | 0:12:28 | 0:12:30 | |
-So I say, long live -the language of the stones! | 0:12:31 | 0:12:34 | |
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-As our journey -along the coastal path continues... | 0:12:46 | 0:12:50 | |
-..Elinor explores the architecture -of the county's cottages. | 0:12:50 | 0:12:54 | |
-There's a diversity of buildings -on the Pembrokeshire coast. | 0:13:12 | 0:13:17 | |
-Some are renowned, -such as Pembroke Castle... | 0:13:17 | 0:13:20 | |
-..St David's Cathedral -and the Bishop's Palace. | 0:13:21 | 0:13:25 | |
-But the buildings -that capture the county's spirit... | 0:13:28 | 0:13:32 | |
-..are simpler structures... | 0:13:32 | 0:13:35 | |
-..such as lime kilns, mills, -farmhouses and cottages. | 0:13:35 | 0:13:40 | |
-This example sits comfortably -in its surroundings. | 0:13:41 | 0:13:44 | |
-It's perfectly situated -in this part of north Pembrokeshire. | 0:13:45 | 0:13:49 | |
-Building and restoring houses -sympathetically is a challenge... | 0:14:04 | 0:14:09 | |
-..and can be a contentious issue -within a national park. | 0:14:09 | 0:14:13 | |
-Edward and Hedydd -are a couple who have succeeded. | 0:14:13 | 0:14:16 | |
-Edward is a builder... | 0:14:17 | 0:14:18 | |
-..and Hedydd is a teacher -with an interest in local history. | 0:14:19 | 0:14:23 | |
-This house -looks as if it's been here... | 0:14:23 | 0:14:26 | |
-..in this landscape for centuries. | 0:14:26 | 0:14:29 | |
-But it didn't look like this at all -when you bought the place. | 0:14:29 | 0:14:34 | |
-It's an old building, -maybe 200 years old... | 0:14:34 | 0:14:38 | |
-..but it was vacant -before we bought it. | 0:14:38 | 0:14:43 | |
-Someone may have lived here once, -but they were outhouses by then. | 0:14:43 | 0:14:49 | |
-I know you explored -traditional houses in the area... | 0:14:49 | 0:14:53 | |
-..to decide on features you liked. | 0:14:53 | 0:14:56 | |
-Which features did you decide -to incorporate into your home? | 0:14:56 | 0:15:02 | |
-It was a ruin when we started... | 0:15:03 | 0:15:07 | |
-..but, crucially, -the stone was here. | 0:15:07 | 0:15:10 | |
-As a builder, I was aware -that it could have been a problem... | 0:15:10 | 0:15:15 | |
-..to find stones -to match the existing stonework. | 0:15:15 | 0:15:19 | |
-We wanted the correct windows too. | 0:15:19 | 0:15:22 | |
-We went to see cottages -in Abereiddy. | 0:15:23 | 0:15:25 | |
-The windows had to suit the style -of the cottage and the landscape. | 0:15:25 | 0:15:30 | |
-We wanted to make sure -we didn't make a mistake. | 0:15:31 | 0:15:35 | |
-I like the way -you've kept the buildings... | 0:15:35 | 0:15:39 | |
-..at a low level -so that they blend in. | 0:15:39 | 0:15:42 | |
-We didn't want a cottage of this -length because they didn't exist. | 0:15:42 | 0:15:47 | |
-So we decided to keep one part -that looked like a cottage... | 0:15:48 | 0:15:52 | |
-..and the other part -to look like outhouses... | 0:15:52 | 0:15:57 | |
-..that were still used as such. | 0:15:57 | 0:15:59 | |
-I'm interested -in the cement roofs... | 0:16:10 | 0:16:13 | |
-..that can be seen -throughout this region. | 0:16:14 | 0:16:17 | |
-They're so typical -of north Pembrokeshire. | 0:16:17 | 0:16:21 | |
-But why aren't they found -elsewhere in Wales? | 0:16:22 | 0:16:26 | |
-They had good quality slate -in North Wales. | 0:16:26 | 0:16:29 | |
-Here in Pembrokeshire... | 0:16:30 | 0:16:33 | |
-..the slate became brittle... | 0:16:34 | 0:16:36 | |
-..and porous after a few years... | 0:16:37 | 0:16:40 | |
-..so roofs would leak. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:42 | |
-That's when cement roofs -were introduced. | 0:16:42 | 0:16:45 | |
-What kind of substances -are used in the cement? | 0:16:45 | 0:16:48 | |
-We use sand, cement... | 0:16:49 | 0:16:51 | |
-..and lime. | 0:16:52 | 0:16:54 | |
-We also use more modern materials -to help it stick to the slate. | 0:16:54 | 0:16:59 | |
-In old houses, -each time the roof was grouted... | 0:16:59 | 0:17:04 | |
-..more weight was added to it. | 0:17:04 | 0:17:06 | |
-Around 1.5 tonnes of sand was needed -to build a roof of this size. | 0:17:07 | 0:17:11 | |
-Over the years, -the roofs started to bow. | 0:17:11 | 0:17:16 | |
-The timber trusses in old houses -weren't strong enough... | 0:17:16 | 0:17:20 | |
-..so roofs began to dip. | 0:17:20 | 0:17:22 | |
-After all the hard work and effort, -are you happy with the result? | 0:17:23 | 0:17:29 | |
-Is it exactly -as you imagined it to be? | 0:17:29 | 0:17:32 | |
-I'm quite happy with it. -I don't want to leave the place. | 0:17:32 | 0:17:35 | |
-If she's happy, -that's good enough for me. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:40 | |
-Thinking of Pembrokeshire's -wonderful landscape... | 0:18:03 | 0:18:07 | |
-..its people -and its towns and villages... | 0:18:07 | 0:18:10 | |
-..it's hard to believe that if you -scraped beneath the surface... | 0:18:10 | 0:18:14 | |
-..you'd find something -completely unexpected. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:18 | |
-Slavery. | 0:18:18 | 0:18:19 | |
-The Vikings -gave this place its name. | 0:18:30 | 0:18:32 | |
-Fishguard literally means -fish-catching enclosure. | 0:18:33 | 0:18:36 | |
-They were very industrious here. | 0:18:37 | 0:18:39 | |
-They invaded and attacked viciously -as they searched for treasure. | 0:18:39 | 0:18:45 | |
-They kidnapped people -and used them as slaves. | 0:18:45 | 0:18:48 | |
-In the nearby village -of Little Newcastle... | 0:18:55 | 0:18:58 | |
-..lived a boy -named Bartholomew Roberts. | 0:18:58 | 0:19:01 | |
-Aged ten, he went to sea -aboard a ship transporting slaves. | 0:19:01 | 0:19:06 | |
-In time, he became captain -of his own ship. | 0:19:08 | 0:19:11 | |
-A pirate ship. | 0:19:11 | 0:19:13 | |
-He became known as Black Bart... | 0:19:13 | 0:19:16 | |
-..arguably the most successful -and vicious pirate in history. | 0:19:16 | 0:19:20 | |
-He attacked 200 ships in two years. | 0:19:20 | 0:19:24 | |
-Many mansions were built -in Pembrokeshire... | 0:19:31 | 0:19:34 | |
-..with the money made -from buying and selling slaves... | 0:19:35 | 0:19:38 | |
-..and from slave labour -on Caribbean sugar plantations. | 0:19:39 | 0:19:43 | |
-Some of the county's families -became very wealthy. | 0:19:43 | 0:19:47 | |
-Some of Pembrokeshire's -colourful characters... | 0:19:49 | 0:19:52 | |
-..have been involved -in the slave trade. | 0:19:53 | 0:19:55 | |
-Among them was Black Bart, no less. | 0:19:56 | 0:19:58 | |
-Yes, one of his first jobs -was on a ship transporting slaves. | 0:19:58 | 0:20:04 | |
-Ships used to transport slaves -were horrendous... | 0:20:05 | 0:20:09 | |
-..not only for the slaves -but also for the crew. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:13 | |
-You could smell a slave ship -from miles away at sea. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:18 | |
-In Black Bart's case... | 0:20:18 | 0:20:20 | |
-..his ship was attacked -and he was taken hostage. | 0:20:21 | 0:20:26 | |
-He then joined his captors -as a pirate. | 0:20:26 | 0:20:29 | |
-In a strange way, -his history is associated... | 0:20:29 | 0:20:34 | |
-..with the burgeoning slave trade. | 0:20:34 | 0:20:37 | |
-Following Black Bart's death -in 1722... | 0:20:37 | 0:20:40 | |
-..the golden age of the pirates -came to an end. | 0:20:41 | 0:20:45 | |
-The pirates, of course, -attacked the slave ships. | 0:20:45 | 0:20:48 | |
-But once the pirates -had been overpowered... | 0:20:49 | 0:20:52 | |
-..the slave trade grew unhindered. | 0:20:53 | 0:20:55 | |
-The trade grew significantly -in the 18th century. | 0:20:56 | 0:20:59 | |
-Wales's economy -was linked to the slave trade. | 0:21:01 | 0:21:05 | |
-Mansions were built -and wealth was generated... | 0:21:05 | 0:21:08 | |
-..as a result of slavery. | 0:21:09 | 0:21:11 | |
-Yes, landowners in Pembrokeshire... | 0:21:11 | 0:21:14 | |
-..owned land and slaves -in the Caribbean. | 0:21:14 | 0:21:17 | |
-The Caribbean was incredibly -important to the slave trade. | 0:21:17 | 0:21:22 | |
-The Caribbean was more important -to Britain's economy... | 0:21:23 | 0:21:27 | |
-..than the North American mainland -in that period. | 0:21:27 | 0:21:31 | |
-You could argue that much of Wales's -industrial development... | 0:21:32 | 0:21:37 | |
-..in the late 18th century -and early 19th century... | 0:21:37 | 0:21:41 | |
-..was funded by money from slavery. | 0:21:42 | 0:21:44 | |
-There is a special example -of slavery in this house. | 0:21:48 | 0:21:52 | |
-Yes, it involves a slave boy -named Cesar Picton. | 0:21:53 | 0:21:56 | |
-He was a gift to John Philipps... | 0:21:56 | 0:22:00 | |
-..who was one -of the estate's owners. | 0:22:00 | 0:22:03 | |
-This house was given to Cesar -when he was five or six years old... | 0:22:04 | 0:22:08 | |
-..along with a parakeet. | 0:22:08 | 0:22:10 | |
-It was fashionable at the time... | 0:22:13 | 0:22:17 | |
-..to have young black boys -as travelling companions. | 0:22:17 | 0:22:21 | |
-But in Cesar's case, -he became part of the family. | 0:22:21 | 0:22:26 | |
-He became a wealthy man. | 0:22:29 | 0:22:33 | |
-John Philipps's daughters -left him money in their wills... | 0:22:33 | 0:22:38 | |
-..and he became far wealthier... | 0:22:38 | 0:22:41 | |
-..than many who were born and bred -in south-east England. | 0:22:42 | 0:22:45 | |
-But Wales became instrumental... | 0:22:46 | 0:22:48 | |
-..in ending this abhorrent trade. | 0:22:49 | 0:22:51 | |
-But there are still traces -in the large estates... | 0:22:51 | 0:22:54 | |
-..of wealth derived from slavery... | 0:22:55 | 0:22:57 | |
-..during a horrendous period -in our history. | 0:22:58 | 0:23:01 | |
-Next week, Damian explores the -derivation of county place names... | 0:23:07 | 0:23:12 | |
-..Elinor roams in Ty Canol woods... | 0:23:12 | 0:23:15 | |
-..and I get the chance to visit -one of the path's hidden gems... | 0:23:16 | 0:23:20 | |
-..the Witch's Cauldron. | 0:23:20 | 0:23:22 | |
-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf. | 0:23:51 | 0:23:53 | |
-. | 0:23:53 | 0:23:54 |