Pennod 6 Llwybr yr Arfordir

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-Pembrokeshire's coastal path

-stretches for more than 186 miles.

-It will guide me from Amroth in the

-south to St Dogmaels in the north.

-Joining me on my journey

-are naturalist Elinor Gwynn...

-..and poet and lecturer

-Damian Walford Davies.

-In the final programme

-of the series...

-..we'll follow the path

-from Newport to St Dogmaels.

-Countless species of birds

-can be seen along the path...

-..from seagulls to gannets,

-swooping majestically into the sea.

-One of Pembrokeshire's most loved

-seabirds is the puffin...

-..the clown of the cliffs.

-The estuary of the River Nevern

-is one of those places...

-..where you won't need binoculars

-to make out the birds in the mud.

-I'm here to meet a man

-who lives in nearby Newport.

-He combines two of the things

-I love most in the world...

-..birds and art.

-Local artist and sculptor

-Wynmor Owen...

-..uses old fence posts

-to create depictions of wild birds.

-It's said that when a sculptor

-studies a piece of stone or wood...

-..he can envisage his sculpture

-from just the raw materials.

-Is that true? When you see a post,

-do you know what it's going to be?

-Yes, it does happen

-but not instantly.

-You notice the grain of the wood.

-I might saw the top

-off an old fence post...

-..to get a view of the grain.

-If I can see it running through

-a particular design...

-..I'd follow these energy lines

-to mimic the bird's motion.

-That's what I hope to achieve.

-Wynmor finds his raw materials

-in hedges and fields.

-Thanks to local farmers,

-I'm able to acquire old posts.

-Once I've taken them home,

-I study them for a while.

-Usually, I can see a potential

-sculpture emerging in the wood...

-..such as a chough, a fulmar

-or a seagull in flight.

-It then comes to life

-in front of your eyes.

-As you turn the wood

-and work on it...

-..you become part of it.

-You guide the process along

-and work with the wood.

-You're a native of this area...

-..who's aware of the wonders

-of your immediate surroundings.

-I love working outdoors

-in such spots as Carn Ingli...

-..Pen Y Morfa and up towards Ceibwr.

-They provide a wealth of inspiration

-for my sketches and sculptures.

-I'm able to capture

-the essence of my surroundings.

-The wonderful chough in its habitat,

-the fulmar busy on the cliff.

-I just want to be part of that

-and blend into their world.

-Notice what they are doing

-and not what you want them to do.

-It's not about how you want

-the picture to develop.

-If you're ready for them,

-the pencil does the work.

-Ideas flood into your mind...

-..and you know you're at one

-with the bird's spirit.

-That element

-is very important to me.

-You wouldn't normally associate

-Pembrokeshire with forests...

-..but you needn't stray

-too far from the coastline...

-..to find wonderful examples,

-such as Ty Canol woods.

-There has been some kind of woodland

-here ever since the last Ice Age.

-They are mainly oak and hazel trees.

-Further down the slope,

-oak trees grow to a lofty height.

-On the upper slopes,

-where rocks are prominent...

-..the oak trees have withered

-and wound around the rocks.

-This became a National Nature

-Reserve back in the 1980s.

-One of the most important features

-of its location...

-..is the diversity

-of moss and lichen.

-More than 400 types of lichen

-have been registered here...

-..making it one of the most fertile

-sites in Wales, if not Britain.

-Lichen and moss grow abundantly

-in ancient forests...

-..where the air is pure and moist.

-But it's important to the lichen...

-..that there is plenty

-of penetrating sunlight.

-In order to witness this...

-..you only need compare the trees

-in this moist environment...

-..where the trees

-are covered in moss...

-..with the trees

-that grow outside the woodland...

-..where there is more diversity

-of lichen on the bark and branches.

-Grazing ensures that tree trunks

-and large rocks...

-..aren't choked by too much growth.

-The wood has been grazed

-by cattle, ponies and sheep.

-It is still used

-for grazing purposes today.

-In a place as unspoilt as this...

-..it's hard to imagine

-that any sort of control is needed.

-But I'm sure plenty goes on

-behind the scenes.

-Yes, you're right.

-The most important thing

-is to allow grazing to continue.

-But grazing

-brings about problems of its own.

-As you can see in this area...

-..the trees are similar

-in terms of size and age.

-Sheep tend to graze on any new

-growth that begins to sprout.

-We've fenced off

-a couple of areas...

-..to prevent livestock

-from going there.

-This allows the immature trees

-to grow to a much bigger size.

-We then move the fencing

-to another area.

-Once in a while,

-we chop down trees...

-..especially those near paths,

-for reasons of safety.

-It also allows more daylight

-to penetrate the woodland.

-We very much hope

-that any changes we make here...

-..won't have an adverse effect

-on the existing woodland.

-There's a special atmosphere here.

-I'm glad to hear that.

-The National Park

-has long been trying...

-..to increase the value of trees

-from native woodlands.

-Tell us what's been going on.

-This is Cilrhedyn Woodland Centre.

-This place was established in 1994.

-It started out as a shed

-that could be developed.

-We're fortunate

-that Cwm Gwaun is nearby.

-The National Park

-owns extensive woodland.

-Yes, we own around 200 hectares.

-We also control another 50 hectares,

-so there's plenty of work to do.

-What do you produce in this centre?

-We produce items

-for the National Park's own use.

-That includes items for the path...

-..gates, stiles,

-steps and bridges.

-That keeps us busy on the whole.

-Looking into the shed,

-it struck me...

-..that bundles

-of seemingly worthless wood...

-..could be turned into gates

-worth over 200 in just a few hours.

-It's astounding

-what they can make from the wood.

-A craftsman can produce gates...

-..that will last

-for many years to come.

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-As our journey

-along the coastal path continues...

-..Damian examines

-some of the county's place names.

-Place names are like small stores...

-..of cultural, historical

-and personal information.

-They also record our roots

-and our legends.

-On the subject of legends,

-I'm heading up there.

-The name Carn Ingli

-conveys strength.

-Literally translated,

-it means rocky mountain.

-There is something iconic...

-..authoritative, supernatural even,

-about Carn Ingli.

-Carn Ingli

-can hardly be called a mountain...

-..but it's in a prominent spot...

-..looking down over Cwm Gwaun

-in front of me...

-..and Newport behind me.

-This is a hill fort

-from the Iron Age.

-Archaeologist have discovered

-the ruins of huts...

-..that were home

-to more than 150 people.

-The place is incredibly noble...

-..with strong natural defences

-on both sides.

-What about the meaning

-of the name itself?

-Carn Ingli was mentioned

-in a document from 1273.

-Three centuries later,

-it was referred to as Carn Englyn.

-Englyn in this sense

-refers to a giant of that name.

-But I haven't seen him yet!

-But the best legends

-are always about saints, not giants.

-The best-known tale about Carn Ingli

-involves Saint Brynach.

-He came up here from Nevern

-to commune with the angels.

-Mons Angelorum in Latin...

-..and Carn Ingli in Welsh,

-ingli meaning angels.

-Those who want to commune with

-the other world still come here...

-..be they Celtic, Christian

-or some other persuasion.

-Many spend the night here.

-I don't know what they're like

-when they come down, mind you.

-Bayvil is a small hamlet

-near Nevern.

-You'd find a record of this place

-dating back to 1273...

-..if you were to sift through old

-manuscripts in the National Library.

-But the name Bayvil is neither

-Welsh nor English in origin.

-It actually derives

-from the French belle ville...

-..which means pretty town.

-On a day like today,

-it's a fitting description.

-But why did this small hamlet

-adopt a French name?

-Perhaps a Frenchman named it

-after a pretty town in Normandy.

-Maybe he named it

-to remind him of home.

-This is Bayvil's

-handsome Georgian church.

-The original church belonged

-to French monks from St Dogmaels.

-The old parish of Bayvil...

-..was under the secular

-and religious rule of France.

-In a document dating back to 1605,

-it is referred to as Trellifan.

-"In English called Toadstown."

-It is a very stark name

-for a toads' farm or town.

-Place names embody accent,

-pronunciation...

-..and patois, which all contribute

-to the richness of language.

-Take the archaic Trellifan,

-for example.

-In the local dialect,

-llifan is the word for toad.

-The plural form is lliffannod,

-not llyffantod.

-Another plural form is llyffaint...

-..which gives the name

-used today, Trellyffaint.

-How did the place

-become known as Trellyffaint?

-Historian George Owen

-associates the place...

-..with a character in a story

-called Seisyll Esgairhir...

-..who was plagued by toads.

-Hundreds of them were killed,

-but it didn't make a difference,

-Seisyll's friends

-put him in a sack...

-..and hung him on a lofty branch.

-Unfortunately,

-the toads could climb trees.

-They went into his sack

-and ate him alive...

-..leaving only his bones.

-Being eaten alive by toads.

-What a way to go!

-Carn Ingli - mount of angels.

-Bayvil - belle ville.

-And Trellyffaint...

-..farm of the toads,

-toads that eat human flesh!

-Literature, history and dialect.

-These place names

-encompass all three.

-They connect us to the past

-and bring us legends...

-..so that we may better understand

-today and tomorrow.

-Walking the northern part

-of the path is quite a challenge.

-It's like a fairground ride,

-climbing and falling...

-..and clinging like a leech

-to the rugged cliffs.

-This area is also

-a geological treasure trove.

-I visited one with Richard Vaughan,

-who's a National Park ranger.

-The Witch's Cauldron was created...

-..by the battle

-between land and sea.

-Yes. It was an old cave at one time.

-Over time, it has been battered

-by ferocious waves.

-The waves are now threatening

-to wash away the arch forever.

-Perhaps, but not today.

-Maybe tomorrow.

-You know all about maintenance work

-because you've done it yourself.

-Yes, my first job

-with the National Park...

-..was to bring the new bridge

-down the slopes behind us.

-It was hard work!

-It was hard work!

-

-How did you do it?

-We used a wheelbarrow,

-a lot of energy and ropes!

-It was hard work

-and required a lot of manpower.

-Your parents and brother

-are farmers in Cwm Gwaun...

-..but you decided

-to become a ranger.

-They're happy I stayed in the area.

-Although I work here full-time...

-..I help out on the farm

-in the evenings and on weekends.

-Did you go away to study?

-I went away for a couple of years...

-..but I wanted to come back

-to work for the Park.

-I'm glad I did.

-You must enjoy showing people

-around because ultimately...

-..it's a resource for people

-as well as a nature reserve.

-You want people to see it.

-It would be nice

-to keep it to ourselves...

-..but we want to show

-what we've done here...

-..and maintain the path

-so that people can enjoy it.

-It's a special area.

-It's a nice place in which to work.

-The people are nice, but the best

-thing is being out in the open air.

-This is your office.

-Yes, my office and my desk.

-I'm very lucky.

-In Poppit, there's a plaque

-marking the end of the coastal path.

-But the path

-officially ends in St Dogmaels.

-Our journey ends

-here in St Dogmaels.

-A path isn't just a way

-of getting from A to B.

-It's a way to view a landscape's

-rhythm and formation...

-..and to observe wildlife.

-Since being in Pembrokeshire,

-I've come to realize...

-..that the hands of time

-move far slower here.

-It allows you more time

-to appreciate outstanding beauty.

-# If I were in your company

-# We'd walk along the shore

-# While waves crashed on the bay

-# The howling wind leaves a scar

-# As it pounds the poor gravel

-# As it pounds the poor gravel

-# This is my love

-# Under the willow tree on the hill

-# Where the well flows beneath

-# And my heart is on fire

-# When I rest with you

-# When I rest with you

-# I will run to you

-# To you #

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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