Pennod 6 Llwybr yr Arfordir


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-Pembrokeshire's coastal path

-stretches for more than 186 miles.

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-It will guide me from Amroth in the

-south to St Dogmaels in the north.

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-Joining me on my journey

-are naturalist Elinor Gwynn...

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-..and poet and lecturer

-Damian Walford Davies.

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-In the final programme

-of the series...

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-..we'll follow the path

-from Newport to St Dogmaels.

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-Countless species of birds

-can be seen along the path...

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-..from seagulls to gannets,

-swooping majestically into the sea.

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-One of Pembrokeshire's most loved

-seabirds is the puffin...

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-..the clown of the cliffs.

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-The estuary of the River Nevern

-is one of those places...

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-..where you won't need binoculars

-to make out the birds in the mud.

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-I'm here to meet a man

-who lives in nearby Newport.

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-He combines two of the things

-I love most in the world...

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-..birds and art.

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-Local artist and sculptor

-Wynmor Owen...

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-..uses old fence posts

-to create depictions of wild birds.

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-It's said that when a sculptor

-studies a piece of stone or wood...

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-..he can envisage his sculpture

-from just the raw materials.

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-Is that true? When you see a post,

-do you know what it's going to be?

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-Yes, it does happen

-but not instantly.

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-You notice the grain of the wood.

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-I might saw the top

-off an old fence post...

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-..to get a view of the grain.

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-If I can see it running through

-a particular design...

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-..I'd follow these energy lines

-to mimic the bird's motion.

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-That's what I hope to achieve.

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-Wynmor finds his raw materials

-in hedges and fields.

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-Thanks to local farmers,

-I'm able to acquire old posts.

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-Once I've taken them home,

-I study them for a while.

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-Usually, I can see a potential

-sculpture emerging in the wood...

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-..such as a chough, a fulmar

-or a seagull in flight.

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-It then comes to life

-in front of your eyes.

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-As you turn the wood

-and work on it...

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-..you become part of it.

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-You guide the process along

-and work with the wood.

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-You're a native of this area...

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-..who's aware of the wonders

-of your immediate surroundings.

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-I love working outdoors

-in such spots as Carn Ingli...

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-..Pen Y Morfa and up towards Ceibwr.

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-They provide a wealth of inspiration

-for my sketches and sculptures.

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-I'm able to capture

-the essence of my surroundings.

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-The wonderful chough in its habitat,

-the fulmar busy on the cliff.

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-I just want to be part of that

-and blend into their world.

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-Notice what they are doing

-and not what you want them to do.

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-It's not about how you want

-the picture to develop.

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-If you're ready for them,

-the pencil does the work.

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-Ideas flood into your mind...

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-..and you know you're at one

-with the bird's spirit.

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-That element

-is very important to me.

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-You wouldn't normally associate

-Pembrokeshire with forests...

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-..but you needn't stray

-too far from the coastline...

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-..to find wonderful examples,

-such as Ty Canol woods.

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-There has been some kind of woodland

-here ever since the last Ice Age.

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-They are mainly oak and hazel trees.

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-Further down the slope,

-oak trees grow to a lofty height.

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-On the upper slopes,

-where rocks are prominent...

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-..the oak trees have withered

-and wound around the rocks.

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-This became a National Nature

-Reserve back in the 1980s.

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-One of the most important features

-of its location...

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-..is the diversity

-of moss and lichen.

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-More than 400 types of lichen

-have been registered here...

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-..making it one of the most fertile

-sites in Wales, if not Britain.

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-Lichen and moss grow abundantly

-in ancient forests...

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-..where the air is pure and moist.

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-But it's important to the lichen...

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-..that there is plenty

-of penetrating sunlight.

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-In order to witness this...

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-..you only need compare the trees

-in this moist environment...

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-..where the trees

-are covered in moss...

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-..with the trees

-that grow outside the woodland...

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-..where there is more diversity

-of lichen on the bark and branches.

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-Grazing ensures that tree trunks

-and large rocks...

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-..aren't choked by too much growth.

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-The wood has been grazed

-by cattle, ponies and sheep.

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-It is still used

-for grazing purposes today.

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-In a place as unspoilt as this...

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-..it's hard to imagine

-that any sort of control is needed.

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-But I'm sure plenty goes on

-behind the scenes.

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-Yes, you're right.

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-The most important thing

-is to allow grazing to continue.

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-But grazing

-brings about problems of its own.

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-As you can see in this area...

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-..the trees are similar

-in terms of size and age.

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-Sheep tend to graze on any new

-growth that begins to sprout.

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-We've fenced off

-a couple of areas...

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-..to prevent livestock

-from going there.

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-This allows the immature trees

-to grow to a much bigger size.

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-We then move the fencing

-to another area.

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-Once in a while,

-we chop down trees...

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-..especially those near paths,

-for reasons of safety.

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-It also allows more daylight

-to penetrate the woodland.

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-We very much hope

-that any changes we make here...

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-..won't have an adverse effect

-on the existing woodland.

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-There's a special atmosphere here.

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-I'm glad to hear that.

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-The National Park

-has long been trying...

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-..to increase the value of trees

-from native woodlands.

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-Tell us what's been going on.

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-This is Cilrhedyn Woodland Centre.

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-This place was established in 1994.

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-It started out as a shed

-that could be developed.

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-We're fortunate

-that Cwm Gwaun is nearby.

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-The National Park

-owns extensive woodland.

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-Yes, we own around 200 hectares.

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-We also control another 50 hectares,

-so there's plenty of work to do.

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-What do you produce in this centre?

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-We produce items

-for the National Park's own use.

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-That includes items for the path...

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-..gates, stiles,

-steps and bridges.

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-That keeps us busy on the whole.

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-Looking into the shed,

-it struck me...

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-..that bundles

-of seemingly worthless wood...

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-..could be turned into gates

-worth over 200 in just a few hours.

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-It's astounding

-what they can make from the wood.

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-A craftsman can produce gates...

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-..that will last

-for many years to come.

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-As our journey

-along the coastal path continues...

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-..Damian examines

-some of the county's place names.

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-Place names are like small stores...

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-..of cultural, historical

-and personal information.

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-They also record our roots

-and our legends.

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-On the subject of legends,

-I'm heading up there.

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-The name Carn Ingli

-conveys strength.

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-Literally translated,

-it means rocky mountain.

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-There is something iconic...

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-..authoritative, supernatural even,

-about Carn Ingli.

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-Carn Ingli

-can hardly be called a mountain...

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-..but it's in a prominent spot...

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-..looking down over Cwm Gwaun

-in front of me...

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-..and Newport behind me.

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-This is a hill fort

-from the Iron Age.

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-Archaeologist have discovered

-the ruins of huts...

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-..that were home

-to more than 150 people.

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-The place is incredibly noble...

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-..with strong natural defences

-on both sides.

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-What about the meaning

-of the name itself?

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-Carn Ingli was mentioned

-in a document from 1273.

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-Three centuries later,

-it was referred to as Carn Englyn.

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-Englyn in this sense

-refers to a giant of that name.

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-But I haven't seen him yet!

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-But the best legends

-are always about saints, not giants.

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-The best-known tale about Carn Ingli

-involves Saint Brynach.

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-He came up here from Nevern

-to commune with the angels.

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-Mons Angelorum in Latin...

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-..and Carn Ingli in Welsh,

-ingli meaning angels.

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-Those who want to commune with

-the other world still come here...

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-..be they Celtic, Christian

-or some other persuasion.

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-Many spend the night here.

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-I don't know what they're like

-when they come down, mind you.

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-Bayvil is a small hamlet

-near Nevern.

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-You'd find a record of this place

-dating back to 1273...

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-..if you were to sift through old

-manuscripts in the National Library.

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-But the name Bayvil is neither

-Welsh nor English in origin.

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-It actually derives

-from the French belle ville...

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-..which means pretty town.

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-On a day like today,

-it's a fitting description.

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-But why did this small hamlet

-adopt a French name?

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-Perhaps a Frenchman named it

-after a pretty town in Normandy.

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-Maybe he named it

-to remind him of home.

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-This is Bayvil's

-handsome Georgian church.

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-The original church belonged

-to French monks from St Dogmaels.

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-The old parish of Bayvil...

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-..was under the secular

-and religious rule of France.

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-In a document dating back to 1605,

-it is referred to as Trellifan.

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-"In English called Toadstown."

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-It is a very stark name

-for a toads' farm or town.

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-Place names embody accent,

-pronunciation...

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-..and patois, which all contribute

-to the richness of language.

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-Take the archaic Trellifan,

-for example.

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-In the local dialect,

-llifan is the word for toad.

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-The plural form is lliffannod,

-not llyffantod.

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-Another plural form is llyffaint...

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-..which gives the name

-used today, Trellyffaint.

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-How did the place

-become known as Trellyffaint?

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-Historian George Owen

-associates the place...

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-..with a character in a story

-called Seisyll Esgairhir...

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-..who was plagued by toads.

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-Hundreds of them were killed,

-but it didn't make a difference,

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-Seisyll's friends

-put him in a sack...

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-..and hung him on a lofty branch.

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-Unfortunately,

-the toads could climb trees.

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-They went into his sack

-and ate him alive...

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-..leaving only his bones.

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-Being eaten alive by toads.

-What a way to go!

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-Carn Ingli - mount of angels.

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-Bayvil - belle ville.

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-And Trellyffaint...

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-..farm of the toads,

-toads that eat human flesh!

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-Literature, history and dialect.

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-These place names

-encompass all three.

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-They connect us to the past

-and bring us legends...

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-..so that we may better understand

-today and tomorrow.

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-Walking the northern part

-of the path is quite a challenge.

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-It's like a fairground ride,

-climbing and falling...

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-..and clinging like a leech

-to the rugged cliffs.

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-This area is also

-a geological treasure trove.

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-I visited one with Richard Vaughan,

-who's a National Park ranger.

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-The Witch's Cauldron was created...

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-..by the battle

-between land and sea.

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-Yes. It was an old cave at one time.

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-Over time, it has been battered

-by ferocious waves.

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-The waves are now threatening

-to wash away the arch forever.

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-Perhaps, but not today.

-Maybe tomorrow.

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-You know all about maintenance work

-because you've done it yourself.

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-Yes, my first job

-with the National Park...

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-..was to bring the new bridge

-down the slopes behind us.

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-It was hard work!

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-It was hard work!

-

-How did you do it?

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-We used a wheelbarrow,

-a lot of energy and ropes!

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-It was hard work

-and required a lot of manpower.

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-Your parents and brother

-are farmers in Cwm Gwaun...

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-..but you decided

-to become a ranger.

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-They're happy I stayed in the area.

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-Although I work here full-time...

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-..I help out on the farm

-in the evenings and on weekends.

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-Did you go away to study?

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-I went away for a couple of years...

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-..but I wanted to come back

-to work for the Park.

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-I'm glad I did.

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-You must enjoy showing people

-around because ultimately...

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-..it's a resource for people

-as well as a nature reserve.

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-You want people to see it.

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-It would be nice

-to keep it to ourselves...

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-..but we want to show

-what we've done here...

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-..and maintain the path

-so that people can enjoy it.

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-It's a special area.

-It's a nice place in which to work.

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-The people are nice, but the best

-thing is being out in the open air.

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-This is your office.

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-Yes, my office and my desk.

-I'm very lucky.

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-In Poppit, there's a plaque

-marking the end of the coastal path.

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-But the path

-officially ends in St Dogmaels.

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-Our journey ends

-here in St Dogmaels.

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-A path isn't just a way

-of getting from A to B.

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-It's a way to view a landscape's

-rhythm and formation...

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-..and to observe wildlife.

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-Since being in Pembrokeshire,

-I've come to realize...

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-..that the hands of time

-move far slower here.

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-It allows you more time

-to appreciate outstanding beauty.

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-# If I were in your company

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-# We'd walk along the shore

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-# While waves crashed on the bay

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-# The howling wind leaves a scar

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-# As it pounds the poor gravel

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-# As it pounds the poor gravel

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-# This is my love

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-# Under the willow tree on the hill

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-# Where the well flows beneath

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-# And my heart is on fire

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-# When I rest with you

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-# When I rest with you

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-# I will run to you

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-# To you #

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-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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