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-Every island -transports you to another world. | 0:00:07 | 0:00:11 | |
-Where the nature of life -has evolved in its own unique way. | 0:00:16 | 0:00:20 | |
-But due to the pressures of the -modern world, the tide is turning. | 0:00:23 | 0:00:27 | |
-For better and for worse. | 0:00:28 | 0:00:31 | |
-In this series, we meet islanders -all over the world. | 0:00:35 | 0:00:40 | |
-People who are proud -of their history... | 0:00:42 | 0:00:45 | |
-..who preserve their customs... | 0:00:45 | 0:00:49 | |
-..and who are patriotic. | 0:00:49 | 0:00:52 | |
-SHE SPEAKS ICELANDIC | 0:00:52 | 0:00:55 | |
-But the globalization -of the world... | 0:00:56 | 0:00:59 | |
-..has made it impossible -for islanders to stand alone. | 0:00:59 | 0:01:03 | |
-In many ways, these shores -are leading the battle... | 0:01:03 | 0:01:08 | |
-..to save the planet. | 0:01:08 | 0:01:11 | |
-The island's fate -is critical to us all. | 0:01:12 | 0:01:16 | |
-In the middle of the North Atlantic, -on the edge of the Arctic Circle... | 0:01:38 | 0:01:42 | |
-..is an island -that could erupt at any moment. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:46 | |
-Iceland is one of the most -volatile places on earth. | 0:01:50 | 0:01:54 | |
-It has been created from the lava -of volcanic eruptions... | 0:01:56 | 0:02:00 | |
-..since time immemorial. | 0:02:00 | 0:02:02 | |
-The volcanoes are still erupting -and the island still forming. | 0:02:03 | 0:02:08 | |
-I've come to raise the curtain -on this magical island... | 0:02:09 | 0:02:15 | |
-..and to try to understand -its inhabitants... | 0:02:15 | 0:02:18 | |
-..who have survived -Mother Nature's onslaught. | 0:02:18 | 0:02:21 | |
-It's a large country -with a tiny population. | 0:02:28 | 0:02:31 | |
-Living here -is a challenge in itself. | 0:02:31 | 0:02:34 | |
-But islanders today are facing -greater risks than volcanoes. | 0:02:36 | 0:02:41 | |
-The wilderness is changing. | 0:02:43 | 0:02:45 | |
-Glaciers are disappearing... | 0:02:45 | 0:02:48 | |
-..as is the solitude that has -protected Icelanders for centuries. | 0:02:51 | 0:02:56 | |
-This is the birthplace -of the very first novel. | 0:02:57 | 0:03:01 | |
-But the island's story -is currently being rewritten. | 0:03:02 | 0:03:06 | |
-Iceland is at a major crossroads. | 0:03:08 | 0:03:11 | |
-Tension exists -between the old and the new. | 0:03:14 | 0:03:17 | |
-Important decisions have to be made. | 0:03:20 | 0:03:23 | |
-# Oh, my God, I'm losing it... | 0:03:23 | 0:03:26 | |
-To preserve the wilderness -or to industrialize it? | 0:03:26 | 0:03:29 | |
-# No, I can hardly breathe... | 0:03:30 | 0:03:32 | |
-To protect nature... | 0:03:32 | 0:03:34 | |
-..or to kill it? | 0:03:36 | 0:03:38 | |
-# I feel my heart suddenly alive # | 0:03:38 | 0:03:41 | |
-To communicate -with the outside world... | 0:03:41 | 0:03:44 | |
-..or to safeguard -the purity of its culture? | 0:03:45 | 0:03:48 | |
-One of the first things -that strikes you about Iceland... | 0:03:55 | 0:04:00 | |
-..is its remoteness. | 0:04:00 | 0:04:02 | |
-In terms of size, -the island is larger than England... | 0:04:08 | 0:04:12 | |
-..but fewer people live here -than in Cardiff. | 0:04:13 | 0:04:17 | |
-Another striking feature... | 0:04:27 | 0:04:30 | |
-..is the island's wild character. | 0:04:30 | 0:04:32 | |
-Iceland is one of the most -volcanic places on the planet. | 0:04:36 | 0:04:40 | |
-The magma - the molten rock within -the earth's mantle - is scorching. | 0:04:41 | 0:04:46 | |
-Iceland lies on the world's -most unstable geological fault... | 0:04:47 | 0:04:53 | |
-..the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. | 0:04:53 | 0:04:55 | |
-It's a tectonic boundary -that splits Iceland in two. | 0:04:57 | 0:05:01 | |
-As the plates separate, -magma rises from the ground. | 0:05:05 | 0:05:09 | |
-There are over 100 volcanoes -on the island today... | 0:05:19 | 0:05:23 | |
-..and more geothermal energy -than any other country. | 0:05:24 | 0:05:28 | |
-Due to its remote location... | 0:05:31 | 0:05:34 | |
-..Iceland's wild elements -are often forgotten... | 0:05:34 | 0:05:38 | |
-..until Mother Nature reminds -everybody of her innate power. | 0:05:39 | 0:05:43 | |
-In April 2010... | 0:05:52 | 0:05:54 | |
-..the volcano -Eyjafjallajokull erupted... | 0:05:55 | 0:05:58 | |
-..bringing Europe to a standstill. | 0:05:58 | 0:06:01 | |
-Because the volcanic ash -posed a danger to aircraft... | 0:06:04 | 0:06:08 | |
-..thousands of flights -were cancelled. | 0:06:08 | 0:06:12 | |
-It cost the international economy -hundreds of millions of pounds. | 0:06:12 | 0:06:17 | |
-This waterfall cascades -from the volcano... | 0:06:17 | 0:06:21 | |
-..that caused all the problems. | 0:06:21 | 0:06:23 | |
-It's a thrill for me -to see such a wonder... | 0:06:23 | 0:06:26 | |
-..but Icelanders -live with these wonders every day... | 0:06:27 | 0:06:31 | |
-..with volcanic earth -literally shifting under their feet. | 0:06:31 | 0:06:35 | |
-Haraldur Sigurdsson -is an expert in volcanology. | 0:06:38 | 0:06:42 | |
-He lives in one of the world's -most volcanic countries. | 0:06:42 | 0:06:46 | |
-HE SPEAKS ICELANDIC | 0:06:46 | 0:06:48 | |
-People have lived in Iceland -for more than 1,000 years. | 0:06:49 | 0:06:52 | |
-They've lived in the shadow of the -volcanoes and felt their effects. | 0:06:53 | 0:06:57 | |
-Eruptions are everyday occurrences. | 0:06:57 | 0:07:00 | |
-But this eruption was exceptional. | 0:07:05 | 0:07:07 | |
-It wasn't the scale of the eruption -that was the problem... | 0:07:10 | 0:07:14 | |
-..but the nature of the ash. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:16 | |
-A thick layer of ash covers -the base of the volcano... | 0:07:17 | 0:07:22 | |
-..that's so difficult to pronounce. | 0:07:22 | 0:07:25 | |
-Eyjafjallajokull. | 0:07:25 | 0:07:27 | |
-Gas from the magma combined -with steam from the glaciers... | 0:07:30 | 0:07:34 | |
-..to form incredibly fine -volcanic ash. | 0:07:34 | 0:07:38 | |
-This ash is so fine. -It's almost like flour. | 0:07:39 | 0:07:43 | |
-It was easily carried by the wind -to countries all over the world... | 0:07:43 | 0:07:48 | |
-..and brought airports -to a standstill. | 0:07:48 | 0:07:52 | |
-The ash descended -onto the entire island. | 0:07:58 | 0:08:00 | |
-It's underfoot everywhere. | 0:08:02 | 0:08:04 | |
-If you look around... | 0:08:05 | 0:08:07 | |
-..you'll notice -that the fields are empty. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:10 | |
-Livestock had to be moved -because the ash was poisonous. | 0:08:11 | 0:08:15 | |
-But the effects -of Eyjafjallajokull... | 0:08:17 | 0:08:20 | |
-..are nothing compared to what -happened here some 200 years ago. | 0:08:20 | 0:08:25 | |
-These are the lava fields -of Eldhraun. | 0:08:34 | 0:08:37 | |
-These tumps are the scars -from the molten rock... | 0:08:38 | 0:08:41 | |
-..that flowed in a red-hot river -from Lakagigar... | 0:08:42 | 0:08:46 | |
-..a tectonic fault -that erupted in 1783. | 0:08:46 | 0:08:49 | |
-For eight months, -Iceland was engulfed... | 0:08:54 | 0:08:58 | |
-..by three million cubic metres -of lava. | 0:08:58 | 0:09:01 | |
-A quarter of the island's -inhabitants were killed. | 0:09:02 | 0:09:06 | |
-The ash reached far and wide, -plunging the planet into darkness... | 0:09:07 | 0:09:12 | |
-..and killing six million people -around the world. | 0:09:13 | 0:09:16 | |
-Icelanders live with the constant -threat of fatal eruptions. | 0:09:20 | 0:09:25 | |
-But they have a better understanding -of how to protect themselves. | 0:09:27 | 0:09:32 | |
-All the island's volcanic movements -are monitored. | 0:09:34 | 0:09:38 | |
-If anything unusual appears... | 0:09:38 | 0:09:41 | |
-..residents are quickly evacuated -to a safe haven. | 0:09:41 | 0:09:45 | |
-No-one was killed -when Eyjafjallajokull erupted. | 0:09:49 | 0:09:53 | |
-But there is a different kind -of threat on the horizon... | 0:09:53 | 0:09:58 | |
-..one that threatens to change -the way of life of every islander. | 0:09:59 | 0:10:04 | |
-. | 0:10:07 | 0:10:07 | |
-888 | 0:10:12 | 0:10:12 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:10:12 | 0:10:14 | |
-Because Iceland's interior -is so barren and remote... | 0:10:20 | 0:10:24 | |
-..almost all the inhabitants -have settled on the coastline. | 0:10:25 | 0:10:29 | |
-The vast majority live in Reykjavik. | 0:10:32 | 0:10:35 | |
-As the world's most northerly -capital city... | 0:10:36 | 0:10:39 | |
-..Reykjavik only gets four hours -of daylight in winter. | 0:10:40 | 0:10:44 | |
-But in summer, it's light -almost around the clock. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:48 | |
-Reykjavik harbour -is the city's cornerstone... | 0:10:49 | 0:10:53 | |
-..and the landing point for -Iceland's most valuable resource. | 0:10:54 | 0:10:58 | |
-It's difficult to grow crops -in the barren volcanic soil... | 0:10:59 | 0:11:04 | |
-..but there is a rich harvest -in the sea. | 0:11:04 | 0:11:07 | |
-These waters are teeming with fish. | 0:11:07 | 0:11:10 | |
-It's these fish that have always -sustained the Icelanders. | 0:11:10 | 0:11:14 | |
-These days, only 1% of the island -is farmed to cultivate crops. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:26 | |
-Fishing is Iceland's main export -and the backbone of its economy. | 0:11:30 | 0:11:36 | |
-But in recent years, Iceland -followed a very different course. | 0:11:37 | 0:11:42 | |
-It was a profitable -yet dangerous course... | 0:11:45 | 0:11:48 | |
-..that shattered Iceland's economy -and had global consequences. | 0:11:50 | 0:11:55 | |
-Christian Davidsson -knows only too well... | 0:12:01 | 0:12:04 | |
-..how close the people of Iceland -came to losing everything. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:09 | |
-He offered to tell me all about it -in exchange for a day by the lake. | 0:12:10 | 0:12:15 | |
-What do you call that in Icelandic? | 0:12:15 | 0:12:19 | |
-Fiskur. | 0:12:19 | 0:12:20 | |
-Fiskur. - -Right, fiskur is fish. | 0:12:20 | 0:12:23 | |
-Lots of fiskur then. | 0:12:23 | 0:12:25 | |
-Fishing is more than a hobby -for Christian - it's a way of life. | 0:12:25 | 0:12:30 | |
-He was first paid to catch fish -when he was 15 years old. | 0:12:34 | 0:12:38 | |
-He comes from a family of fishermen. | 0:12:38 | 0:12:41 | |
-His father -was also a seaman for 30 years. | 0:12:42 | 0:12:45 | |
-Was that better? | 0:12:52 | 0:12:54 | |
-I have to do this. -I feel like a real angler now. | 0:12:55 | 0:12:58 | |
-HE SPEAKS ICELANDIC | 0:13:01 | 0:13:03 | |
-By becoming a fisherman, -Christian chose an uncertain career. | 0:13:05 | 0:13:10 | |
-Although the sea surrounding Iceland -is fertile... | 0:13:11 | 0:13:15 | |
-..it's also wild. | 0:13:15 | 0:13:18 | |
-Storms and ferocious waves -can develop in an instant. | 0:13:22 | 0:13:26 | |
-Over the centuries, sailors -have learned to respect the sea... | 0:13:33 | 0:13:37 | |
-..and pray for God's help -in guiding them. | 0:13:37 | 0:13:41 | |
-MAN PRAYS IN ICELANDIC | 0:13:46 | 0:13:48 | |
-The coast is dotted with churches. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:04 | |
-It was a sailor's last port of call -to pray before weighing anchor. | 0:14:05 | 0:14:11 | |
-MAN PRAYS IN ICELANDIC | 0:14:15 | 0:14:17 | |
-But even the most solemn prayer -couldn't ensure a safe voyage. | 0:14:19 | 0:14:24 | |
-The numerous sailors' graves... | 0:14:24 | 0:14:26 | |
-..bear witness -to the sea's merciless power. | 0:14:27 | 0:14:31 | |
-As the Icelandic saying goes, -the sea gives and takes away. | 0:14:37 | 0:14:42 | |
-Christian was lucky. | 0:14:46 | 0:14:48 | |
-He made a profit from fishing... | 0:14:49 | 0:14:51 | |
-..when Iceland was netting -a million tonnes of fish each year. | 0:14:51 | 0:14:56 | |
-But by the end of the 1990s, -the situation was about to change. | 0:14:59 | 0:15:04 | |
-A small group of businessmen... | 0:15:06 | 0:15:08 | |
-..took the reins and led Iceland -in a very different direction... | 0:15:08 | 0:15:12 | |
-..into the world of high finance. | 0:15:13 | 0:15:15 | |
-Seeing that there was more profit -in finance than fish... | 0:15:17 | 0:15:22 | |
-..Christian put an advertisement -in the paper. | 0:15:22 | 0:15:25 | |
-"Christian is looking for a job... | 0:15:29 | 0:15:31 | |
-"..where he will be part of a team -of ten or more workers." | 0:15:31 | 0:15:36 | |
-He had several offers, but the -most attractive was from the bank. | 0:15:36 | 0:15:41 | |
-HE SPEAKS ICELANDIC | 0:15:41 | 0:15:43 | |
-In no time at all, he became -an investor for the fisheries. | 0:15:44 | 0:15:48 | |
-Like many bankers, -he made his fortune. | 0:15:49 | 0:15:51 | |
-He holidayed abroad... | 0:15:55 | 0:15:57 | |
-..and the size of his wine cellar -in London increased significantly. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:03 | |
-It wasn't just the business people -who benefited from this new wealth. | 0:16:03 | 0:16:08 | |
-For the first time -in their history... | 0:16:09 | 0:16:11 | |
-..ordinary Icelanders -had money to burn. | 0:16:12 | 0:16:14 | |
-By borrowing and investing overseas, -Iceland became a rich nation... | 0:16:20 | 0:16:25 | |
-..for a while. | 0:16:26 | 0:16:27 | |
-But in 2008, -the global economy began to falter. | 0:16:33 | 0:16:38 | |
-Stock markets plummeted. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:43 | |
-The banks' credit tower vanished, -along with Iceland's wealth. | 0:16:43 | 0:16:48 | |
-It was as if a cloud of ash -had descended. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:53 | |
-The country -was up to its eyes in debt. | 0:16:55 | 0:16:58 | |
-The banks had borrowed -over six times the country's wealth. | 0:16:58 | 0:17:03 | |
-They went bankrupt overnight. | 0:17:03 | 0:17:05 | |
-Within a week, everything changed. | 0:17:10 | 0:17:13 | |
-Christian was out of work. | 0:17:13 | 0:17:16 | |
-Within six weeks, -unemployment had risen fivefold. | 0:17:17 | 0:17:22 | |
-Fiery public protests... | 0:17:27 | 0:17:29 | |
-..led to the collapse -of the discredited government. | 0:17:29 | 0:17:34 | |
-People were determined to return -to the old way of life. | 0:17:35 | 0:17:39 | |
-These days, fish once again -form the backbone of the economy. | 0:17:44 | 0:17:49 | |
-The fisheries are more important now -than ever before. | 0:17:51 | 0:17:55 | |
-With a million tonnes of fish -being caught... | 0:17:55 | 0:17:58 | |
-..the produce is exported, -providing revenue for the country. | 0:17:58 | 0:18:02 | |
-For many years to come, -any profit made from fishing... | 0:18:04 | 0:18:07 | |
-..will be used -to clear the country's debt. | 0:18:08 | 0:18:11 | |
-Even banks acknowledge the value -of the old produce. | 0:18:11 | 0:18:16 | |
-To show you the importance -of fishing to Iceland... | 0:18:16 | 0:18:20 | |
-..their coins feature a fish -rather than a figurehead. | 0:18:20 | 0:18:24 | |
-Christian has also returned -to what he knows best. | 0:18:25 | 0:18:30 | |
-He has set up a company to advise -the world's fishing industry. | 0:18:30 | 0:18:35 | |
-But he has a long way to go. | 0:18:36 | 0:18:39 | |
-The country is in so much debt, -the figures are hard to comprehend. | 0:18:39 | 0:18:43 | |
-Christian worries -about his children's future. | 0:18:43 | 0:18:47 | |
-The more the islanders -engage with the outside world... | 0:18:52 | 0:18:56 | |
-..the more their lives will change. | 0:18:56 | 0:18:59 | |
-Some years ago, Iceland was part -of a wealthy global community. | 0:19:00 | 0:19:05 | |
-The collapse -has thrust them back to the past. | 0:19:09 | 0:19:12 | |
-But the islanders' ancestors -have survived much worse things... | 0:19:17 | 0:19:23 | |
-..and evidence of their tenacity -has been left behind. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:27 | |
-. | 0:19:30 | 0:19:30 | |
-888 | 0:19:35 | 0:19:35 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:19:35 | 0:19:37 | |
-Since the Vikings landed here -more than 1,000 years ago... | 0:19:47 | 0:19:52 | |
-..the people of Iceland -have had to scrape a living. | 0:19:52 | 0:19:55 | |
-Wherever you go in Iceland... | 0:19:56 | 0:19:58 | |
-..there is evidence of people -trying to survive in remote places. | 0:19:58 | 0:20:03 | |
-A family of 18 would have lived -in a farmhouse of this size. | 0:20:03 | 0:20:07 | |
-They'd fish in the sea -and keep their livestock here. | 0:20:07 | 0:20:10 | |
-Confined to a spartan existence, -islanders used their imagination... | 0:20:16 | 0:20:22 | |
-..and escaped to a world -of magic and legend. | 0:20:22 | 0:20:25 | |
-Icelanders' literary tradition -is important not just to them... | 0:20:30 | 0:20:35 | |
-..but to the whole world. | 0:20:35 | 0:20:37 | |
-A special museum in Reykjavik -safeguards precious manuscripts. | 0:20:40 | 0:20:45 | |
-This collection of books -are the first novels ever written. | 0:20:46 | 0:20:52 | |
-These are the Saga, -which literally means story. | 0:20:53 | 0:20:56 | |
-They're historical novels... | 0:20:56 | 0:20:59 | |
-..written in Norse, that trace -Iceland's native and turbulent past. | 0:20:59 | 0:21:05 | |
-In the beginning, -the Saga were narrated orally... | 0:21:13 | 0:21:16 | |
-..from one generation to the next. | 0:21:16 | 0:21:19 | |
-During the bleak, cold winters... | 0:21:26 | 0:21:28 | |
-..the tales helped islanders -to forget their hardship... | 0:21:29 | 0:21:33 | |
-..and reminded them -of their courageous forefathers. | 0:21:33 | 0:21:37 | |
-In the 12th century... | 0:21:42 | 0:21:44 | |
-..parts of the Saga -were transcribed onto vellum. | 0:21:45 | 0:21:49 | |
-Even to this day, Icelanders -can understand the manuscripts. | 0:21:51 | 0:21:55 | |
-The remoteness of the island... | 0:21:56 | 0:21:58 | |
-..has allowed them to retain -the purity of an ancient language. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:02 | |
-The Saga's lessons about hardship... | 0:22:03 | 0:22:06 | |
-..and good versus evil -are still relevant today... | 0:22:06 | 0:22:10 | |
-..and still sell. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:13 | |
-Icelanders buy more books -and have more authors per capita... | 0:22:17 | 0:22:22 | |
-..than any other country -in the world. | 0:22:22 | 0:22:25 | |
-One of them is Gerdur Kristny. | 0:22:28 | 0:22:30 | |
-As a novelist, poet -and children's author... | 0:22:33 | 0:22:36 | |
-..she is inspired -by the old literature. | 0:22:36 | 0:22:39 | |
-SHE SPEAKS ICELANDIC | 0:22:39 | 0:22:41 | |
-The Saga are still relevant -to the Icelanders... | 0:22:41 | 0:22:45 | |
-..and are very important. | 0:22:45 | 0:22:47 | |
-Gerdur uses themes from the Saga -when writing her own books... | 0:22:50 | 0:22:55 | |
-..for both children and adults. | 0:22:56 | 0:22:59 | |
-SHE SPEAKS ICELANDIC | 0:22:59 | 0:23:01 | |
-The ideology of the battle -between good and evil... | 0:23:03 | 0:23:07 | |
-..and how to keep one's dignity -in adversity... | 0:23:07 | 0:23:10 | |
-..are still important -to the Icelanders. | 0:23:10 | 0:23:13 | |
-Of course, Wales also has -its medieval legends. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:23 | |
-Will our sagas strike a chord -with the young listeners? | 0:23:24 | 0:23:28 | |
-I have a story... | 0:23:28 | 0:23:30 | |
-..about a huge giant -called Bendigeidfran... | 0:23:30 | 0:23:35 | |
-..who used his body as a bridge -so that the people of Wales... | 0:23:35 | 0:23:39 | |
-..could walk over him to Ireland. | 0:23:40 | 0:23:43 | |
-GERDDOR SPEAKS ICELANDIC | 0:23:44 | 0:23:45 | |
-Like the Mabinogion... | 0:23:46 | 0:23:49 | |
-..the Saga -are very bloodthirsty stories. | 0:23:49 | 0:23:52 | |
-But Gerdur tells me -that the children adore them. | 0:23:52 | 0:23:57 | |
-They love the Saga -and the scary legends. | 0:23:57 | 0:24:01 | |
-They truly believe -in Iceland's mystical creatures. | 0:24:02 | 0:24:06 | |
-Goblins who live under rocks. | 0:24:09 | 0:24:12 | |
-Ghosts that turn to stone -once dawn breaks. | 0:24:14 | 0:24:17 | |
-SHE SPEAKS ICELANDIC | 0:24:20 | 0:24:22 | |
-The children's version -of the Saga... | 0:24:23 | 0:24:26 | |
-..still includes all the ferocious -and bloodthirsty images. | 0:24:26 | 0:24:31 | |
-There's a lot of violence -in these old traditional tales. | 0:24:32 | 0:24:36 | |
-They clearly give children -a lot of pleasure. | 0:24:36 | 0:24:40 | |
-This love of literature has -sustained Iceland's book industry... | 0:24:43 | 0:24:47 | |
-..even during the recession. | 0:24:50 | 0:24:53 | |
-The government -has also lent a helping hand. | 0:24:55 | 0:24:58 | |
-Back home, during periods -of financial hardship... | 0:25:00 | 0:25:03 | |
-..the first things to suffer -are literature and the arts. | 0:25:04 | 0:25:07 | |
-But in Iceland, funding increases... | 0:25:08 | 0:25:10 | |
-..because they regard literature -as a form of therapy. | 0:25:11 | 0:25:14 | |
-Gerdur knows this from experience. | 0:25:15 | 0:25:18 | |
-The writing grant she receives... | 0:25:18 | 0:25:22 | |
-..has been extended -from one year to three. | 0:25:22 | 0:25:25 | |
-She says it's proof -that Icelandic literature... | 0:25:29 | 0:25:32 | |
-..is more important now than ever. | 0:25:32 | 0:25:35 | |
-But in the current climate... | 0:25:35 | 0:25:39 | |
-..Icelanders are also expected -to do more. | 0:25:39 | 0:25:42 | |
-They must show initiative. | 0:25:45 | 0:25:47 | |
-This island's wilderness -is changing... | 0:25:57 | 0:26:00 | |
-..at a rate never seen before... | 0:26:00 | 0:26:03 | |
-..and in ways that are -almost impossible to measure. | 0:26:04 | 0:26:07 | |
-In a country -carved from snow and ice... | 0:26:15 | 0:26:18 | |
-..it's easy to notice -the effects of global warming. | 0:26:18 | 0:26:22 | |
-The glaciers that cover 11% -of Iceland's land mass are melting. | 0:26:26 | 0:26:32 | |
-Vatnajokull -is Europe's biggest ice cap. | 0:26:36 | 0:26:41 | |
-It's a sheet of ice -almost a kilometre thick. | 0:26:42 | 0:26:47 | |
-But the ancient landscape -is disappearing, chunk by chunk. | 0:26:48 | 0:26:52 | |
-This piece of ice -is over 1,000 years old... | 0:26:56 | 0:26:59 | |
-..but the glaciers are melting -at an alarming rate. | 0:27:00 | 0:27:04 | |
-A century ago, -this lake didn't exist. | 0:27:04 | 0:27:07 | |
-As you can see, it's expanding -as the ice turns to water. | 0:27:07 | 0:27:12 | |
-The lagoon is incredibly beautiful. | 0:27:16 | 0:27:20 | |
-Tourists like me flock to see -the effects of global warming. | 0:27:23 | 0:27:28 | |
-You're only seeing 10% -of these lumps of ice. | 0:27:47 | 0:27:50 | |
-The rest is hidden underwater. | 0:27:50 | 0:27:52 | |
-Their size is incredible. | 0:27:52 | 0:27:54 | |
-Experts predict -that Iceland's glaciers... | 0:27:58 | 0:28:02 | |
-..will have all disappeared -in a few centuries... | 0:28:03 | 0:28:07 | |
-..thus transforming the island. | 0:28:07 | 0:28:09 | |
-The deterioration has already begun. | 0:28:12 | 0:28:15 | |
-The lagoon is washing away -the island's main coastal road. | 0:28:16 | 0:28:22 | |
-It's the same story -right across Iceland. | 0:28:24 | 0:28:27 | |
-As the glaciers thaw... | 0:28:30 | 0:28:33 | |
-..meltwater threatens -to make transport impossible. | 0:28:33 | 0:28:38 | |
-As the glaciers disappear, -the islanders are preparing... | 0:28:45 | 0:28:49 | |
-..for a different future... | 0:28:49 | 0:28:51 | |
-..a future conditioned -by the demands of the modern world. | 0:28:52 | 0:28:57 | |
-Many believe that renewable energy -will take Iceland forward. | 0:29:03 | 0:29:09 | |
-After all, the island is home... | 0:29:10 | 0:29:12 | |
-..to some of the world's largest -geothermal fields. | 0:29:13 | 0:29:16 | |
-Here, the earth's fiery heat -boils beneath the surface... | 0:29:17 | 0:29:23 | |
-..and the taste of sulphur -lingers in the mouth. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:26 | |
-There's no denying the immense force -building beneath the ground. | 0:29:27 | 0:29:32 | |
-The heat and the smell are awful. | 0:29:32 | 0:29:35 | |
-But there's a way of harnessing -this destructive energy... | 0:29:35 | 0:29:39 | |
-..and turning it -into something beneficial. | 0:29:40 | 0:29:43 | |
-Icelanders know how to fulfil -its potential. | 0:29:46 | 0:29:49 | |
-Almost every home -is heated by geothermal energy. | 0:29:51 | 0:29:56 | |
-But industrial growth -is fed by the rivers. | 0:30:05 | 0:30:10 | |
-They cascade wildly -from the glaciers. | 0:30:10 | 0:30:13 | |
-There is huge potential -for hydropower here. | 0:30:16 | 0:30:20 | |
-Business people the world over -are vying for it. | 0:30:20 | 0:30:24 | |
-In 2003, -the American company Alcoa... | 0:30:30 | 0:30:33 | |
-..chose the remote town -of Reydarfjordur... | 0:30:33 | 0:30:36 | |
-..as the location -for its aluminium factory. | 0:30:36 | 0:30:40 | |
-At 1.5km in length... | 0:30:40 | 0:30:43 | |
-..the Fjardaal factory -is the biggest industrial venture... | 0:30:43 | 0:30:48 | |
-..in Icelandic history. | 0:30:48 | 0:30:50 | |
-By heating the aluminium... | 0:30:51 | 0:30:53 | |
-..to a temperature -of 950 degrees Celsius... | 0:30:53 | 0:30:57 | |
-..the liquid metal -is extracted from the ore. | 0:30:57 | 0:31:00 | |
-The process requires -a vast amount of energy. | 0:31:00 | 0:31:05 | |
-Hydropower supplies that energy, -day and night. | 0:31:06 | 0:31:10 | |
-Alcoa employs 2,000 local people. | 0:31:14 | 0:31:18 | |
-The factory has replaced fishing -as the main local employer. | 0:31:19 | 0:31:24 | |
-It produces 940 tonnes of aluminium -every day... | 0:31:27 | 0:31:32 | |
-..and is vitally important -to the country's economy. | 0:31:32 | 0:31:36 | |
-Because Iceland doesn't have -a source of natural aluminium... | 0:31:36 | 0:31:42 | |
-..the ore is imported -thousands of miles to Fjardaal. | 0:31:42 | 0:31:46 | |
-Hydropower in Iceland produces -incredibly cheap electricity... | 0:31:46 | 0:31:51 | |
-..and that's what makes -this venture so profitable. | 0:31:53 | 0:31:56 | |
-But it comes at a cost. | 0:32:00 | 0:32:03 | |
-Iceland's wilderness -is paying the price. | 0:32:05 | 0:32:09 | |
-About 50km from the factory... | 0:32:12 | 0:32:15 | |
-..deep underground... | 0:32:15 | 0:32:17 | |
-..is a hidden power station. | 0:32:17 | 0:32:19 | |
-It's a labyrinth of tunnels... | 0:32:21 | 0:32:24 | |
-..channelling millions of gallons -of water through giant turbines. | 0:32:24 | 0:32:29 | |
-Every single kilowatt -of energy generated... | 0:32:31 | 0:32:35 | |
-..supplies the aluminium factory. | 0:32:35 | 0:32:38 | |
-It's one thing to build a factory... | 0:32:38 | 0:32:40 | |
-..but quite another to build a dam -to power that factory. | 0:32:40 | 0:32:44 | |
-We're in the bowels -of the mountain. | 0:32:44 | 0:32:46 | |
-It looks like something -from a James Bond film. | 0:32:47 | 0:32:50 | |
-Two huge rivers have been redirected -to flow through the pipes... | 0:32:50 | 0:32:55 | |
-..and shining machinery. | 0:32:55 | 0:32:57 | |
-The venture -cost over a billion euros to build. | 0:32:57 | 0:33:02 | |
-But you have to view the project -from up above... | 0:33:04 | 0:33:08 | |
-..to get a real sense -of its magnitude. | 0:33:08 | 0:33:11 | |
-This is Karahnjukar Dam. | 0:33:18 | 0:33:22 | |
-The water feeding the power station -collects in a 25km-long reservoir. | 0:33:22 | 0:33:27 | |
-This is Europe's highest -and most controversial dam. | 0:33:29 | 0:33:33 | |
-From the moment the government -unveiled its plans... | 0:33:36 | 0:33:39 | |
-..there have been angry protests... | 0:33:40 | 0:33:42 | |
-..against the drowning of one -of Europe's last wildernesses... | 0:33:44 | 0:33:48 | |
-..for the sake of industrialization. | 0:33:48 | 0:33:52 | |
-Protestors camped at the site... | 0:33:52 | 0:33:55 | |
-..and won widespread support -throughout the world. | 0:33:56 | 0:34:00 | |
-But their protests were in vain. | 0:34:01 | 0:34:04 | |
-The aluminium factory -has transformed the landscape... | 0:34:04 | 0:34:09 | |
-..and the local community's -way of life. | 0:34:09 | 0:34:12 | |
-It's easy to criticize the fact... | 0:34:12 | 0:34:14 | |
-..that a factory has been built -amid such beauty... | 0:34:15 | 0:34:18 | |
-..but it does mean that locals -can stay in their communities. | 0:34:18 | 0:34:22 | |
-It made me think of Wales. | 0:34:23 | 0:34:24 | |
-If we could attract investment -of over a billion euros... | 0:34:25 | 0:34:29 | |
-..to our rural communities, -would we build a similar factory? | 0:34:29 | 0:34:34 | |
-I'm not sure whether I'd be for -or against it any more. | 0:34:37 | 0:34:41 | |
-But there are some who believe -that industry isn't the only option. | 0:34:46 | 0:34:50 | |
-They want to protect -the island's wildlife... | 0:34:51 | 0:34:55 | |
-..in order to attract -a different kind of wealth. | 0:34:55 | 0:34:59 | |
-. | 0:35:00 | 0:35:00 | |
-888 | 0:35:04 | 0:35:04 | |
-888 - -888 | 0:35:04 | 0:35:06 | |
-Iceland is one of the world's -most remote wildernesses. | 0:35:15 | 0:35:19 | |
-It's one of earth's -least populated countries. | 0:35:27 | 0:35:31 | |
-Parts of the island -are so remote... | 0:35:36 | 0:35:39 | |
-..that they haven't even -been named yet. | 0:35:39 | 0:35:42 | |
-But the barren landscape -that kept people away for so long... | 0:35:46 | 0:35:50 | |
-..is now attracting them. | 0:35:50 | 0:35:53 | |
-They are being enchanted -by the island's beauty... | 0:35:56 | 0:36:00 | |
-..and its strange creatures. | 0:36:00 | 0:36:03 | |
-The north-eastern town of Husavik -is a popular tourist destination. | 0:36:08 | 0:36:13 | |
-It was one of the first places... | 0:36:15 | 0:36:18 | |
-..where the Vikings landed -and settled. | 0:36:18 | 0:36:21 | |
-For centuries, local people -scraped a living by fishing. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:28 | |
-Like the vast majority -of Husavik's residents... | 0:36:32 | 0:36:35 | |
-..the sea has been a regular -companion to Stefan Gudmundsson. | 0:36:35 | 0:36:40 | |
-HE SPEAKS ICELANDIC | 0:36:40 | 0:36:42 | |
-He went to sea for the first time -aged five. | 0:36:43 | 0:36:47 | |
-He's from a long line -of fishermen... | 0:36:47 | 0:36:49 | |
-..stretching back five generations. | 0:36:50 | 0:36:53 | |
-During the summer, Stefan's family -moved to an island... | 0:36:57 | 0:37:00 | |
-..an hour's journey -from the mainland. | 0:37:01 | 0:37:03 | |
-Landing on the island -was just like stepping back in time. | 0:37:10 | 0:37:14 | |
-These houses are still -without electricity and a water. | 0:37:15 | 0:37:19 | |
-But what a place. | 0:37:22 | 0:37:24 | |
-The waters surrounding the island -are incredibly fertile. | 0:37:29 | 0:37:34 | |
-In the old days, -the bigger the fish, the better. | 0:37:34 | 0:37:38 | |
-The fishermen caught -whatever was available. | 0:37:40 | 0:37:43 | |
-Whales, dolphins and porpoise. | 0:37:44 | 0:37:48 | |
-All these animals -were caught and eaten. | 0:37:48 | 0:37:51 | |
-But things are different now, -says Stefan. | 0:37:54 | 0:37:57 | |
-Hunting whales -no longer makes sense. | 0:37:57 | 0:38:00 | |
-Husavik's economy now relies -more on tourism than fishing. | 0:38:07 | 0:38:12 | |
-The most popular tourist pursuit -is a boat trip to watch whales. | 0:38:14 | 0:38:18 | |
-For a decade, Stefan -has been running Gentle Giants. | 0:38:22 | 0:38:25 | |
-It's Husavik's largest -whale watching company. | 0:38:26 | 0:38:30 | |
-It's his chance to show the beauty -of his homeland's wildlife. | 0:38:39 | 0:38:44 | |
-His ancestors would be amazed -to discover... | 0:38:49 | 0:38:52 | |
-..that the people of today -prefer cameras to harpoons. | 0:38:53 | 0:38:58 | |
-But the tide is turning -against the sea giants of Husavik. | 0:39:09 | 0:39:13 | |
-After a 25-year ban... | 0:39:19 | 0:39:22 | |
-..the Icelandic government -is now allowing whaling. | 0:39:22 | 0:39:26 | |
-Whaling ships that have been idle -for so long... | 0:39:28 | 0:39:32 | |
-..are once again sailing the seas. | 0:39:33 | 0:39:35 | |
-It is now legal -to kill these incredible mammals. | 0:39:38 | 0:39:42 | |
-Changing the law -was a controversial step. | 0:39:45 | 0:39:48 | |
-It's also a backward step, -in Stefan's view. | 0:39:48 | 0:39:51 | |
-There's more money to be made -watching whales than killing them. | 0:39:53 | 0:39:57 | |
-Apparently, -the whale watching industry... | 0:40:03 | 0:40:06 | |
-..is five times more lucrative -than hunting them. | 0:40:06 | 0:40:09 | |
-But Icelanders maintain... | 0:40:09 | 0:40:11 | |
-..that it's a tradition -that should be preserved... | 0:40:12 | 0:40:15 | |
-..despite protests -from the rest of the world. | 0:40:16 | 0:40:19 | |
-Stefan believes that people -are using the cause... | 0:40:20 | 0:40:23 | |
-..as an excuse -to express their identity. | 0:40:24 | 0:40:27 | |
-But for some tourists, -the paradox of whale watching... | 0:40:34 | 0:40:38 | |
-..in a country that allows whaling -creates a dilemma. | 0:40:38 | 0:40:43 | |
-If the visitors -kept away in protest... | 0:40:44 | 0:40:47 | |
-..the future of towns like Husavik -could be in jeopardy. | 0:40:47 | 0:40:51 | |
-Without revenue from tourism... | 0:40:54 | 0:40:56 | |
-..the residents would have to move -to the capital to find work. | 0:40:56 | 0:41:01 | |
-It's a familiar pattern -right across the island. | 0:41:05 | 0:41:08 | |
-Reykjavik's population has doubled -during the last 50 years. | 0:41:14 | 0:41:18 | |
-The argument -about the future of Husavik... | 0:41:20 | 0:41:23 | |
-..is a sign of the predicament -that Iceland faces. | 0:41:23 | 0:41:26 | |
-Today, it must choose between -an old tradition and a new start. | 0:41:33 | 0:41:38 | |
-With every tide, Iceland's -unique nature is under threat. | 0:41:42 | 0:41:48 | |
-But I believe -there is one characteristic... | 0:41:49 | 0:41:52 | |
-..that could help the islanders -retain their land. | 0:41:53 | 0:41:57 | |
-I'm on the last leg of my journey -around the island. | 0:41:57 | 0:42:02 | |
-I've seen the great wonders -of its landscape. | 0:42:02 | 0:42:05 | |
-But I also feel -that I've got to know the people. | 0:42:05 | 0:42:10 | |
-Whether they live rural -or urban lives... | 0:42:10 | 0:42:13 | |
-..these people respect the land. | 0:42:14 | 0:42:16 | |
-It's that respect -which unites them as a nation. | 0:42:16 | 0:42:20 | |
-By uniting, the islanders -can find their voice... | 0:42:23 | 0:42:27 | |
-..and claim their place -in the modern world. | 0:42:27 | 0:42:30 | |
-Back in Reykjavik, -I meet a group of lads... | 0:42:33 | 0:42:36 | |
-..who are trying to do just that. | 0:42:36 | 0:42:38 | |
-Icelanders love music. | 0:42:39 | 0:42:41 | |
-One of the most popular scenes -is the rock scene. | 0:42:41 | 0:42:45 | |
-Dikta is one of many bands -that record in Reykjavik. | 0:42:45 | 0:42:48 | |
-They're starting to make a name -for themselves internationally. | 0:42:49 | 0:42:54 | |
-# From my heart I sing to you -and I'm hoping | 0:42:55 | 0:42:58 | |
-# That you'll understand -what I'm trying to say # | 0:42:58 | 0:43:03 | |
-The band formed -when the boys were at school. | 0:43:04 | 0:43:08 | |
-At the time, many Icelandic artists -achieved chart success. | 0:43:08 | 0:43:12 | |
-Bjork and Sigur Ros paved the way -for bands like Dikta. | 0:43:16 | 0:43:20 | |
-It's incredible -that such a small island... | 0:43:21 | 0:43:24 | |
-..can produce -internationally-acclaimed artists. | 0:43:24 | 0:43:28 | |
-Dikta belong to a new generation -of islanders who live in the city. | 0:43:31 | 0:43:37 | |
-The rock scene -is vibrant in Reykjavik... | 0:43:38 | 0:43:42 | |
-..but as in Wales, -there's a limited market. | 0:43:42 | 0:43:46 | |
-Very few can make a living -from making music. | 0:43:48 | 0:43:52 | |
-You only have to sell 5,000 copies -to be awarded a gold disc. | 0:43:52 | 0:43:56 | |
-They all have full-time jobs. | 0:44:00 | 0:44:04 | |
-Two are teachers, one a pilot -and the other a doctor. | 0:44:04 | 0:44:09 | |
-If they were -to give up their jobs... | 0:44:09 | 0:44:13 | |
-..they'd have to appeal -to a wider audience... | 0:44:13 | 0:44:16 | |
-..and deal with the dilemma -faced by many Welsh-language bands. | 0:44:16 | 0:44:21 | |
-If you want to extend your following -beyond the Icelandic market... | 0:44:22 | 0:44:27 | |
-..it helps to record in English. | 0:44:27 | 0:44:29 | |
-It's an international language -that is widely understood. | 0:44:30 | 0:44:34 | |
-Like the Welsh, -many islanders are bilingual. | 0:44:37 | 0:44:40 | |
-English is the language -of many businesses here. | 0:44:41 | 0:44:44 | |
-But Icelandic -is the language of the arts. | 0:44:46 | 0:44:49 | |
-By singing in English, -Dikta are breaking with tradition. | 0:44:49 | 0:44:55 | |
-They feel that they are responding -to a new demand. | 0:44:56 | 0:45:00 | |
-Communicating with the world. | 0:45:00 | 0:45:03 | |
-# Oh, my God, I'm losing it | 0:45:06 | 0:45:08 | |
-# I'm finally going out of it... | 0:45:08 | 0:45:10 | |
-The medium may be English, -but Iceland's still the inspiration. | 0:45:11 | 0:45:15 | |
-# Thank you | 0:45:16 | 0:45:19 | |
-# Thank you for the world, -the world, the world... | 0:45:19 | 0:45:24 | |
-Everything will be OK - -jump in and do something. | 0:45:28 | 0:45:32 | |
-That's what Icelanders say. | 0:45:32 | 0:45:34 | |
-Dikta are jumping in -and doing something. | 0:45:37 | 0:45:41 | |
-# Thank you for the life | 0:45:45 | 0:45:48 | |
-# And making me see | 0:45:48 | 0:45:51 | |
-# Inside of me # | 0:45:51 | 0:45:53 | |
-Dikta's attitude is typical -of a nation trying to survive... | 0:45:58 | 0:46:03 | |
-..on a wonderful island. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:05 | |
-People who have learned to adapt -in a world of major change. | 0:46:06 | 0:46:11 | |
-After centuries of being -at the back of our minds... | 0:46:13 | 0:46:16 | |
-..this island -is demanding our attention. | 0:46:17 | 0:46:20 | |
-It's becoming more of an influence -on all our lives. | 0:46:22 | 0:46:26 | |
-But if Iceland -has already been transformed... | 0:46:28 | 0:46:31 | |
-..there's a bigger change looming. | 0:46:33 | 0:46:36 | |
-In the past, -islanders used their imagination... | 0:46:41 | 0:46:45 | |
-..to escape life's hardships. | 0:46:45 | 0:46:48 | |
-But times are changing. | 0:46:51 | 0:46:53 | |
-These days, -the people can escape tragedy... | 0:46:55 | 0:46:58 | |
-..and redirect nature as they wish. | 0:46:58 | 0:47:02 | |
-But for how long? | 0:47:06 | 0:47:08 | |
-As the world gets hotter -and the ice melts... | 0:47:08 | 0:47:12 | |
-..this country is being reshaped -in front of our eyes. | 0:47:13 | 0:47:17 | |
-It isn't just the landscape -that's at risk. | 0:47:20 | 0:47:24 | |
-For centuries, this country -has been isolated by the sea. | 0:47:25 | 0:47:30 | |
-This has protected -the language and culture. | 0:47:30 | 0:47:34 | |
-But globalization -is changing the world. | 0:47:34 | 0:47:37 | |
-The sea is no longer a barrier. | 0:47:37 | 0:47:39 | |
-There is confidence here... | 0:47:39 | 0:47:41 | |
-..but is it enough -to protect Iceland's uniqueness? | 0:47:42 | 0:47:45 | |
-I very much hope so. | 0:47:46 | 0:47:48 | |
-In so many ways... | 0:47:49 | 0:47:52 | |
-..the fate of Europe's -last remaining wilderness... | 0:47:52 | 0:47:55 | |
-..is important to us all. | 0:47:56 | 0:47:58 | |
-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf. | 0:48:29 | 0:48:31 | |
-. | 0:48:32 | 0:48:32 |