Galapagos Yr Ynys


Galapagos

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-Every island

-transports you to another world.

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-Where natural life and the nature

-of life have evolved...

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-..in their own unique way.

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-But due to the pressures of the

-modern world, the tide is turning.

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-For better and for worse.

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-In this series, we meet islanders

-all over the world.

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-Those who are proud

-of their history...

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-..who preserve their customs...

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-..and who are patriotic.

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-But globalization

-has made it impossible...

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-..for islanders to stand alone.

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-In many ways, these shores...

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-..are leading the battle

-to save the planet.

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-The island's fate

-is critical to us all.

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-A thousand kilometres

-from Ecuador's mainland...

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-..in the glistening Pacific Ocean...

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-..lies the amazing archipelago

-of the Galapagos Islands.

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-Formed after a volcanic eruption

-deep under the seabed...

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-..this is the habitat

-of our planet's rarest species.

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-Nature has had to adapt in order

-to survive in this environment.

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-It has helped to build man's

-understanding of the natural world.

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-I'm going to the Galapagos Islands.

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-I have repeated those words

-to myself countless times recently.

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-Whenever I mentioned to friends

-who have an interest in nature...

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-..that I was coming here,

-they called me a lucky devil!

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-Without wishing to romanticize...

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-..it's among the few places on earth

-that's still an unspoilt paradise.

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-The wild seas surrounding the

-Galapagos were a natural defence.

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-For thousands of years,

-this rugged landscape...

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-..was beyond the reach of man.

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-Up until two centuries ago...

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-..few people knew

-of the islands' existence.

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-But 1835 was the year...

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-..that changed the course

-of the islands' history.

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-Charles Darwin landed here

-more or less by chance...

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-..on his way home

-from an expedition to South America.

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-It was during his exploration...

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-..that Darwin developed his theories

-of natural selection and evolution.

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-He began to realize...

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-..that some of the answers to life's

-mysteries could be unlocked here.

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-It took decades before he turned

-his early experiences...

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-..into his theory of evolution.

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-When The Origin Of Species

-was published...

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-..he shattered ancient beliefs

-about the world around us.

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-The charm of these remote islands

-has enchanted us ever since.

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-Since the Galapagos have shown us

-the evolution of the human race...

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-..they must also be able to show us

-what the future has in store.

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-The islands are so important and so

-fragile that they must be protected.

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-That's why they are

-a World Heritage Site.

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-Man is the stranger

-in this habitat.

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-Man was the last creature

-to arrive.

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-Neither the native animals

-nor the world's rarest birds...

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-..have learnt to fear us.

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-Until recently,

-only a handful of people lived here.

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-These days, the Galapagos Islands

-are home to 22,000 inhabitants.

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-Almost half the population

-live on the island of Santa Cruz...

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-..in the town of Puerto Ayora.

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-These days, continuous streams

-of people and goods...

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-..pass through the harbour,

-unlike 50 years ago...

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-..before the steady stream

-of incomers arrived.

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-The influx of immigrants...

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-..has been a contentious issue

-in rural Wales for generations.

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-It will be interesting for me

-to hear from the son...

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-..of one of the first families

-to settle in the Galapagos.

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-I'm looking forward

-to my conversation with Gil De Roy.

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-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

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-In the early days,

-the people who came here to live...

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-..were fleeing the modern world.

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-They craved the simple life,

-but more than that, freedom.

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-Gil and his family live on a farm

-similar to that of his parents...

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-..who came here from Belgium

-about 50 years ago.

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-Growing up, Gil and his sister

-were at one with nature.

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-He's still proud of the fact...

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-..that he didn't own a pair of shoes

-until he was in his twenties.

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-The woods and beaches

-were his classroom...

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-..and he learnt all about

-the island's creatures.

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-But Gil De Roy's paradise

-was short-lived.

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-As the boy grew into a man,

-the tourist industry also grew.

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-Gil seized the opportunity

-to use his practical knowledge.

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-He used the family's boat

-to start a business as a tour guide.

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-He also explored more of his native

-habitat in the company of tourists.

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-I loved sharing my knowledge...

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-..and getting to know the islands

-a little better.

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-It was an invaluable experience.

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-This is the only place on earth...

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-..that allows man

-to connect with wildlife...

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-..in its natural habitat.

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-This is what attracted

-the early tourists.

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-I remind myself that it is people...

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-..who are the strangers here.

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-But as more and more tourists

-came here...

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-..the thrill of being a tour guide

-lost its appeal for Gil.

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-He sought work that enabled him

-to spend more time at home.

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-He now earns a living

-making jewellery.

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-He's an accomplished

-jewellery designer.

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-His creations are sold locally.

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-The inspiration for his fine work

-comes from the natural world.

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-But he has to appeal to the tastes

-of a wide range of tourists...

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-..who come to the Galapagos.

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-The number of tourists

-increases each year.

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-During the early 1990s,

-60,000 tourists visited annually.

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-That number has since trebled.

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-I'm used to seeing

-Snowdonia's paths being eroded.

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-To prevent something similar

-happening here...

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-..the authorities have imposed

-restrictions on tourist areas.

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-Gil tells me

-that I must be accompanied...

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-..by a National Park official

-before visiting certain sites.

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-But the same rules

-also restrict residents' freedom.

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-Visiting the family's old boat

-was a strange experience.

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-Gil is no longer allowed

-to use the boat.

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-Restrictions have made life awkward.

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-New rules mean that Gil

-isn't even allowed to weigh anchor.

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-It's permanently moored here,

-trapped like a bird in a cage.

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-All Gil wants is to be able

-to live closer to nature...

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-..as he did previously.

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-He claims to have lost his freedom.

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-A considerable amount of freedom.

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-Gil's bolt-hole...

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-..is the family home in the hills

-beyond the bustle of Puerto Ayora.

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-The family hopes to return

-to the simple life.

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-Although he's keen for his daughter

-to learn jewellery design...

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-..he intends to give it up

-in future...

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-..to focus on being self-sufficient,

-detached from the outside world.

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-I'm struck with a sense of both

-admiration and despair for Gil.

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-He's a quiet yet strong character

-who grows his own coffee crop...

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-..and manages to live frugally.

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-Gil De Roy's goal

-is to build his own Utopia.

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-But others have very different aims

-for the Galapagos.

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-.

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-Geologically, life is a very

-recent event on the Galapagos.

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-For millions of years,

-these volcanic rocks were barren...

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-..until seeds carried by the winds

-and migrating birds...

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-..began to sprout.

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-Land animals

-were carried by driftwood...

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-..following heavy floods

-in faraway continents.

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-But when people

-began to inhabit the islands...

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-..strange new species

-were introduced.

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-Many mice and insects came here

-unwittingly, in ships' holds.

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-Others were introduced

-intentionally...

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-..to provide sustenance

-for the new population.

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-But the strange animals

-posed a serious threat...

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-..to the islands' native species.

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-Following thousands of years

-of separation...

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-..they were unable to fight

-new diseases and compete for food.

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-The giant tortoise

-is on the brink of extinction.

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-These days, man's relationship

-with the giant tortoise...

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-..is one of compromise.

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-We're on farmland here.

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-It's inevitable that the tortoise

-will eat the crops.

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-If the tortoise is to survive,

-then we must learn to coexist.

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-This farmer

-has adapted his methods...

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-..by growing fruits on trees

-that tortoises can't reach...

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-..thus protecting his crops.

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-He also keeps cattle.

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-The barbed wire

-has been positioned high enough...

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-..for the tortoise

-to pass underneath it.

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-But as I watch this creature...

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-..I can't help but think

-of thousands of his ancestors...

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-..that were captured

-by sailing vessels...

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-..to provide food

-for the sailors on their voyages.

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-But while this tortoise

-is likely to survive...

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-..it is already too late

-for many more.

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-The famous Lonesome George...

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-..is the only remaining

-Pinta tortoise in the world.

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-When he dies,

-the species will become extinct.

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-One can only hope that George's fate

-will remind tourists...

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-..of the fragile nature

-of these wonders.

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-Nowadays, 150,000 tourists

-flock to these shores every year.

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-As tourist numbers increase...

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-..the very future of these islands

-hangs in the balance.

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-I'm just one of the thousands.

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-The Galapagos' astounding appeal

-is understandable.

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-Nature is handed to you on a plate.

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-I can stare

-right into this pelican's eyes.

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-I think he will tire of me

-staring at him...

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-..before I will tire of him.

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-He's incredible.

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-When you're given the opportunity

-to be this close to such a bird...

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-..you notice how cold his eyes are.

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-I remember reading an article

-by Bill Condry in The Guardian...

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-..about the great blue heron.

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-He said

-that by staring into its eyes...

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-..you can see how they have

-descended from dinosaurs.

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-Remembering things like that

-is incredibly appropriate...

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-..here in the Galapagos.

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-That's enough.

-It's his place, after all.

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-Yes, the Galapagos Islands

-belong to their creatures.

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-But these days, they rely on people

-to care for them...

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-..people like vet Marilyn Cruz.

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-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

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-She's passionate about animals.

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-She learns something new every day

-by being with them.

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-She feels there's an understanding

-between the animals and her.

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-When I'm with the sea lions,

-I forget everything else.

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-I forget about the world.

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-I focus completely on the animals.

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-The Galapagos' sea lions

-are unlikely to become extinct...

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-..but they are under threat.

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-Rising sea temperatures

-and climate change...

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-..has affected the food chain

-in the Galapagos.

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-These days, there are fewer fish

-to feed the sea lions...

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-..and many have died

-from disease and famine.

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-Marilyn has created a database

-to monitor the sea lions' health.

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-But she's also keen to protect them

-from another kind of danger.

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-An unexpected danger.

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-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

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-Owning a dog has become fashionable

-on the islands.

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-They're a problem because they carry

-a number of diseases.

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-It's difficult to prevent these

-diseases spreading to wildlife.

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-We have to be very cautious.

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-Distemper poses a serious threat.

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-It was first detected in 2001.

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-The disease spreads like wildfire.

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-The disease wreaked havoc last time,

-killing 400 dogs.

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-Once the disease takes hold...

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-..it is easily passed on to other

-animals through the dog's saliva.

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-Marilyn worries

-that distemper could wipe out...

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-..the islands' sea lion population.

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-By monitoring

-the sea lions' health...

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-..Marilyn and her team of wardens

-hope to prevent an epidemic.

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-SEA LION SCREECHES

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-Catching a sea lion

-requires patience.

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-Once it has been caught,

-the veterinary work begins.

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-The more information collected...

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-..the better the chance

-of protecting the animals.

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-It's good to know there have been

-no cases of distemper detected...

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-..among the sea lions

-of San Cristobal.

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-These are merely

-preventative measures...

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-..to keep diseases at bay.

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-For many, it is the sea lions

-that define the Galapagos Islands.

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-It is the pups

-that are most at risk...

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-..because their immune system

-has not yet fully developed.

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-Samples of blood, saliva and faeces

-are taken.

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-The pups' condition reflects

-the health of the entire population.

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-The vet cuts a pattern

-in the sea lion's coat...

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-..to allow them to recognize it

-in future.

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-It requires expertise to treat

-a wild animal so effortlessly.

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-The work of Marilyn and her team

-is commendable.

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-The fresh samples are quickly taken

-to the laboratory.

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-If disease is detected...

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-..they are able to take

-immediate action.

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-We must protect our species

-for all our sakes.

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-The animals are part

-of an evolutionary process...

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-..the likes of which you won't

-find elsewhere in the world.

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-She is laying a foundation

-for the future.

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-If the islands' creatures

-were struck by disease...

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-..scientists would come here

-to find the answers.

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-This work is important to those

-who want to preserve wildlife...

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-..and the natural world.

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-It's vital to animals and to us...

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-..because we share that environment

-with them.

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-Today, man's intervention

-is evident.

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-In the current climate,

-that isn't about to change.

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-Puerto Ayora has a population of

-12,000 and its economy is thriving.

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-Jobs and wages here

-are better than in Ecuador.

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-Muchas gracias.

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-Gracias.

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-In 2010, due to a sudden rise

-in population...

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-..Ecuador's government

-ordered a census of the islands.

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-Schoolchildren

-were sent to collect statistics.

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-The information will be used

-to plan for the future.

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-It's clear that the town

-will have to expand further.

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-Every spare inch of land

-is being replaced by concrete.

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-But it has to end somewhere...

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-..and in this case,

-it's the National Park boundary.

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-Before the ink has dried

-on the census forms...

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-..the government

-is eager to assert its authority.

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-I'd never met an immigration officer

-before coming to the Galapagos...

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-..let alone seeing someone

-such as Erick Sotomayor at work.

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-Erick is the head of a unit

-of twelve officers.

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-Each week, they intercept traffic

-to check travellers' documents.

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-I'm not comfortable

-in this sort of situation...

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-..but it's a regular occurrence

-for the people of the Galapagos.

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-The aim of these spot checks...

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-..is to catch people

-who are working here illegally.

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-They are searching

-for drivers today.

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-Immigration is an emotive subject...

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-..but the authorities are determined

-to keep it under control.

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-The vast majority

-live here legally.

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-But it's a tough job

-to catch all the illegal immigrants.

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-ERICK SPEAKS SPANISH

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-When somebody doesn't have

-the relevant papers...

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-..we check whether they're on

-the civic register.

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-That's how we find out whether they

-have the right to be here or not.

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-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

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-Muchas gracias.

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-Erick is the officer responsible

-for organizing the traffic checks.

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-They only have half an hour.

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-Word travels fast

-on such a small island.

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-People are on their mobile phones

-straight away.

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-They have to work quickly

-then move to a different location.

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-They're only here a short time

-before moving elsewhere.

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-According to some, Erick

-and the officers are heavy-handed.

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-He acknowledges

-that his job is far from easy.

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-Erick tells me that he and his

-colleagues have been threatened.

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-Threatened with violence.

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-Erick is called back to the office

-to deal with a serious matter.

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-They have caught two people...

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-..who don't have

-the necessary paperwork.

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-I'm here at the office to find out

-what's going to happen to them.

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-Two days ago, this young woman...

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-..was asked to produce

-her residency papers.

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-She doesn't have the necessary

-documents and has confessed...

0:26:460:26:50

-..that she is an illegal immigrant.

0:26:510:26:54

-By law,

-she must be deported immediately.

0:26:570:27:01

-Erick must ensure that she boards

-the next plane to Ecuador.

0:27:030:27:08

-THEY SPEAK SPANISH

0:27:090:27:11

-The police escort her to the

-airport, while Erick follows...

0:27:180:27:23

-..to ensure the deportation

-process is carried out.

0:27:240:27:28

-That is his duty.

0:27:320:27:34

-His conscience is clear.

0:27:350:27:37

-He is aware of the dangers

-of overpopulation...

0:27:370:27:41

-..to the islands' unique habitat.

0:27:410:27:44

-If there were no laws

-to protect the Galapagos...

0:27:470:27:50

-..I'm convinced some of our

-native species would become extinct.

0:27:500:27:55

-It would be total chaos here.

0:27:560:27:59

-Man would be the only species

-to survive.

0:28:000:28:04

-That is his stark message.

0:28:140:28:16

-But Erick isn't made of stone.

0:28:160:28:18

-He knows that there is pain

-behind every case like this.

0:28:190:28:23

-It appears that the girl

-had come to the Galapagos...

0:28:250:28:29

-..to escape an unhappy marriage

-in Ecuador.

0:28:290:28:32

-When she returns home, she will

-be shunned by her community.

0:28:330:28:37

-Her husband

-could make life difficult for her.

0:28:370:28:40

-Erick says he will see

-what he can do to help her.

0:28:410:28:44

-This is a very poignant story.

0:28:470:28:50

-This girl is being deported

-to the mainland...

0:28:500:28:54

-..but I'm sure you would sympathize

-with her plight.

0:28:540:28:59

-But when you consider that

-she is one of 1,000 immigrants...

0:28:590:29:03

-..trying to work here illegally...

0:29:030:29:06

-..it puts the situation

-into context.

0:29:060:29:09

-The constitution of the Galapagos...

0:29:090:29:11

-..is very strict towards those

-who work and live here illegally.

0:29:110:29:17

-Some argue that it contravenes

-their human rights.

0:29:170:29:20

-But abolishing immigration control

-could cause an economic collapse...

0:29:210:29:26

-..and would certainly cause

-an ecological collapse.

0:29:270:29:30

-z/.

0:29:350:29:35

-888

0:29:390:29:39

-888

-

-888

0:29:390:29:41

-Santa Cruz

-was my first port of call.

0:29:440:29:46

-It's now time to visit

-some of the less populated islands.

0:29:470:29:51

-I'm heading to Isabela.

0:29:540:29:56

-The sea horse-shaped island

-is the largest in the chain.

0:29:580:30:03

-It only has 4,000 inhabitants.

0:30:090:30:11

-They only moved there

-relatively recently.

0:30:110:30:14

-Puerto Villamil is Isabela's

-most populated village.

0:30:160:30:22

-It's here that you get a sense

-of the way the islands were...

0:30:220:30:26

-..before the boom in tourism

-happened some 20 years ago...

0:30:260:30:31

-..and transformed other islands.

0:30:320:30:34

-The atmosphere is calmer

-and more laid back.

0:30:340:30:37

-In that respect,

-I feel much more at home here.

0:30:370:30:42

-But even here in Villamil,

-the winds of change are blowing.

0:30:420:30:48

-The wildlife and the dream

-of a simpler life...

0:30:510:30:54

-..are what attracted people here.

0:30:550:30:57

-Among them is Mathias Espinosa.

0:30:590:31:01

-He and his wife, Maria Augusta,

-have lived here for six years.

0:31:010:31:06

-They both agree that Isabela

-is an ideal place to raise a family.

0:31:060:31:10

-The children and I...

0:31:140:31:16

-..love going to the beach

-in the morning.

0:31:160:31:19

-I go there in my pyjamas...

0:31:190:31:22

-..and sit and watch the animals

-do their thing.

0:31:220:31:25

-THEY SPEAK SPANISH

0:31:260:31:28

-The island's beauty has captivated

-Mathias and his family.

0:31:340:31:38

-It's their bread and butter too.

0:31:400:31:42

-Mathias is passionate

-about Isabela's wildlife.

0:31:460:31:49

-He works as a National Park guide.

0:31:490:31:51

-His biggest pleasure is sharing

-this habitat with visitors.

0:31:550:31:59

-It's a joy being in the company

-of someone so knowledgeable.

0:31:590:32:03

-But despite

-the relaxed atmosphere...

0:32:110:32:14

-..life on Isabela

-isn't all plain sailing.

0:32:140:32:17

-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:32:180:32:20

-Mathias complains

-about a lack of community spirit.

0:32:210:32:26

-Most islanders still consider

-Ecuador as their motherland.

0:32:260:32:30

-It was its fishing industry...

0:32:360:32:39

-..that lured

-many of Isabela's incomers.

0:32:400:32:43

-But greed has ravaged the seas.

0:32:430:32:46

-These days, the National Park

-prohibits commercial fishing.

0:32:480:32:53

-Fishermen are facing hardship.

0:32:530:32:55

-It's hoped that tourism will

-replace fishing as the main revenue.

0:32:580:33:03

-Puerto Villamil

-is now awash with tourists.

0:33:090:33:12

-More and more boats

-unload passengers...

0:33:130:33:16

-..each with dollars to spend.

0:33:160:33:19

-But Mathias worries

-that things are moving too fast.

0:33:250:33:29

-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:33:300:33:33

-We must rein in the economic growth

-and coexist with nature.

0:33:330:33:38

-If we fail to do that,

-then the animals will migrate...

0:33:390:33:42

-..and be replaced by concrete.

0:33:430:33:45

-People are undoubtedly

-a part of the problem.

0:33:470:33:50

-Conversely, it's people

-who can solve the problem.

0:33:510:33:54

-He wants people to work together

-to preserve the beauty.

0:33:540:33:59

-Just like many a Welshman

-with a vision...

0:33:590:34:02

-..Mathias has turned to music

-as a medium to spread the message.

0:34:020:34:07

-SHE SINGS IN SPANISH

0:34:080:34:10

-Isabela's waves, beaches,

-birds and animals...

0:34:150:34:19

-..provide the inspiration

-for the songs.

0:34:190:34:22

-Music is a powerful medium.

0:34:260:34:28

-It captures the imagination...

0:34:290:34:31

-..and reaffirms the importance

-of protecting the Galapagos.

0:34:310:34:36

-We've been writing and performing

-songs for more than 20 years.

0:34:370:34:42

-These days, eight young bands

-play with us.

0:34:430:34:47

-They all write their own songs.

0:34:470:34:49

-If we can't strike a balance...

0:35:040:35:07

-..between people

-and the natural world here...

0:35:070:35:10

-..the human race may as well

-go to live on the moon.

0:35:100:35:14

-But the preservation of nature

-isn't just confined to the land.

0:35:220:35:26

-The seas

-are teeming with marine life.

0:35:260:35:29

-Here, the Pacific's

-warm and cold currents collide.

0:35:330:35:37

-The waters are overflowing

-with food and nutrients.

0:35:390:35:43

-But man's greed

-is evident once again...

0:35:440:35:48

-..and putting one creature

-in danger.

0:35:480:35:51

-The shark.

0:35:530:35:55

-A bowl of the famous shark fin

-soup will set you back 100.

0:35:590:36:04

-That price prompts people

-to hunt sharks in the cruellest way.

0:36:060:36:11

-The fins are the only thing of value

-to these illegal fishermen.

0:36:120:36:17

-It is the shark's fate to be

-dissected with a sharp knife...

0:36:170:36:21

-..and thrown back into the water

-to die.

0:36:210:36:24

-The battle to prevent

-illegal fishermen begins here...

0:36:280:36:32

-..at Santa Cruz's radar station...

0:36:320:36:35

-..where they monitor every vessel

-entering Galapagos waters.

0:36:350:36:40

-The Ecuadorian navy

-patrols the marine reserve.

0:36:430:36:46

-By working in tandem with

-the National Park authorities...

0:36:500:36:54

-..they receive data from

-the headquarters on the mainland.

0:36:550:36:59

-Very good.

0:37:000:37:02

-The radar control centre

-in Santa Cruz...

0:37:020:37:05

-..monitors a vast expanse of sea...

0:37:060:37:08

-..and thousands of kilometres

-of coastline.

0:37:080:37:12

-Once the station

-spots a suspicious vessel...

0:37:120:37:16

-..the Armada del Ecuador is called

-to monitor the situation.

0:37:160:37:22

-The Armada

-is a division of the navy...

0:37:270:37:29

-..which has the power to search

-any vessel and arrest any seaman...

0:37:300:37:34

-..suspected of illegal activity.

0:37:350:37:37

-Although commercial fishing

-has been prohibited...

0:37:400:37:44

-..the sharks and their valuable fins

-are still under threat.

0:37:440:37:49

-In order to protect the seas...

0:37:520:37:54

-..the authorities must be

-one step ahead of the villains.

0:37:540:37:59

-Sometimes, a keen nose

-is better than a beady eye.

0:38:000:38:04

-I've always admired Labradors.

0:38:100:38:12

-But four-year-old Nico

-is one in a million.

0:38:130:38:18

-He has been trained to sniff out

-shark fins hidden on the boats.

0:38:180:38:22

-Due to the vastness

-of the marine reserve...

0:38:250:38:28

-..Nico's help is required

-almost every day.

0:38:290:38:32

-He's used to everything

-that his job entails.

0:38:320:38:35

-These days,

-as the islands' population grows...

0:38:420:38:45

-..more and more cargo ships

-sail in and out of the ports.

0:38:450:38:50

-They are perfect places to hide

-illegal goods such as shark fins.

0:38:520:38:57

-If they are here,

-then Nico is sure to sniff them out.

0:39:010:39:05

-Climbing over empty gas canisters

-is dangerous.

0:39:090:39:13

-Nico and his master

-must tread very carefully.

0:39:130:39:16

-Heavy cargo reaches the Galapagos

-on boats like this.

0:39:200:39:24

-They offload the cargo

-at San Cristobal harbour.

0:39:240:39:27

-I really admire Nico's skills.

0:39:280:39:30

-There are numerous smells

-to contend with...

0:39:300:39:33

-..including vegetables,

-diesel and saltwater.

0:39:340:39:37

-It would be impossible for us.

0:39:370:39:39

-The dog is searching...

0:39:390:39:41

-..for illegal imports and exports,

-but especially exports.

0:39:410:39:46

-There is a trend

-in the affluent west...

0:39:460:39:49

-..to collect rare animals

-and birds' eggs.

0:39:490:39:52

-They are sometimes smuggled

-onto boats such as this one.

0:39:520:39:56

-People here are relatively poor...

0:39:560:39:58

-..so they are tempted

-by the illegal market.

0:39:590:40:02

-This is the first step

-in preventing that.

0:40:020:40:06

-.

0:40:080:40:08

-888

0:40:130:40:13

-888

-

-888

0:40:130:40:15

-The sea surrounding the Galapagos

-is a Mecca for divers.

0:40:190:40:23

-Before coming to the islands,

-I completed a scuba diving course.

0:40:230:40:28

-But you have to respect

-these waters.

0:40:320:40:34

-The Russian divers I'm with today

-are far more experienced than me.

0:40:350:40:40

-Somebody's low air...

0:40:430:40:45

-..so we just going to get down...

0:40:460:40:48

-The diving trips are expensive...

0:40:480:40:51

-..but the luxurious boat

-is a world away...

0:40:520:40:55

-..from the sea beneath it.

0:40:560:40:57

-Sometimes, it means disappointment.

0:40:580:41:01

-It would have been very amusing...

0:41:020:41:05

-..seeing me,

-an inexperienced Welshman...

0:41:050:41:09

-..swimming alongside

-the experienced Russian divers.

0:41:100:41:15

-The organizer said

-that the current was too strong...

0:41:150:41:19

-..for an inexperienced swimmer

-like myself.

0:41:190:41:22

-I've only spent four days

-underwater...

0:41:220:41:25

-..or rather four dives

-at Vivian Quarry.

0:41:250:41:29

-It's a world away

-from diving here in the Galapagos.

0:41:290:41:34

-I'm a little disappointed...

0:41:360:41:38

-..but there's also an element

-of relief.

0:41:390:41:42

-The strong current

-is the greatest danger.

0:41:490:41:52

-The creatures, including the sharks,

-are relatively harmless.

0:41:530:41:57

-But you don't have to be

-an experienced scuba diver...

0:42:040:42:07

-..to get a closer view

-of marine life.

0:42:080:42:10

-Thankfully, I'm a better sailor

-than I am a diver.

0:42:120:42:16

-Yasmania Llerena is a biologist,

-heading a team of scientists...

0:42:190:42:24

-..who are trying to protect

-the young sharks of the Galapagos.

0:42:240:42:28

-Yasmania is creating a database

-about the life cycle of sharks.

0:42:280:42:33

-There are 30 native breeds of shark

-in the islands' waters.

0:42:350:42:40

-We know very little about them.

0:42:400:42:42

-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:42:420:42:44

-It's essential that we study

-the sharks of the Galapagos...

0:42:450:42:49

-..to understand the relationship

-between the species.

0:42:490:42:54

-But catching a shark requires skill.

0:42:580:43:01

-They are restless creatures that

-are only still when giving birth.

0:43:050:43:10

-The best place to catch them

-is in a shark nursery...

0:43:140:43:17

-..in order to collect samples

-and fit an electronic tag.

0:43:180:43:22

-Although it's time-consuming work,

-Yasmania never complains.

0:43:250:43:31

-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

0:43:310:43:33

-I'm at my happiest

-when I'm at one with nature...

0:43:350:43:39

-..especially when I'm with sharks,

-because they're incredible.

0:43:400:43:44

-I learn something new every day

-at the reserve.

0:43:440:43:47

-The shark is at the top

-of the food chain...

0:43:540:43:57

-..so if the population is healthy

-in these waters...

0:43:570:44:00

-..the other marine life

-is healthy too.

0:44:010:44:04

-Once the tag has been fitted....

0:44:100:44:12

-..it's important to ensure

-that the shark has recovered...

0:44:120:44:16

-..and is able to swim well enough

-to avoid danger.

0:44:180:44:22

-My tour of the Galapagos

-is drawing to an end...

0:44:320:44:36

-..but the visit to my final island

-promises a special experience.

0:44:360:44:41

-This is the real Galapagos.

0:44:430:44:46

-The wild islands that have

-never been touched by man.

0:44:460:44:50

-This is North Seymour Island.

0:44:510:44:53

-I'm already sensing that this

-is going to be a special experience.

0:44:530:44:58

-I never thought I'd say I was

-used to seeing marine iguanas.

0:45:040:45:09

-But on the arid terrain

-of North Seymour...

0:45:150:45:18

-..I caught my first glimpse

-of the land iguana.

0:45:180:45:22

-As I watched him...

0:45:240:45:26

-..I was again reminded

-that I'm the stranger here.

0:45:260:45:30

-The booby

-is an accomplished fisherman...

0:45:360:45:39

-..despite sharing its name

-with a stupid person.

0:45:400:45:43

-It's also a rare chance

-to see the Galapagos dove.

0:45:440:45:47

-It was the beginning of December

-and an unusual time to see chicks.

0:45:500:45:55

-But the seasons here

-are unlike our own.

0:45:550:45:59

-Frigate birds inflate their red

-pouches during the mating season.

0:46:020:46:07

-But during the rearing season,

-scientists now believe...

0:46:070:46:10

-..that it summons the hen back

-to her nest to feed her chicks...

0:46:100:46:14

-..further proof that we have

-much to learn about these islands.

0:46:170:46:21

-THE SEA LION BARKS

0:46:220:46:24

-Charles Darwin spent five weeks

-here in the Galapagos.

0:46:260:46:30

-Following 20 years of reflection,

-The Origin Of Species was published.

0:46:300:46:35

-It revolutionized the way

-we looked at the natural world.

0:46:350:46:40

-I will also reflect on my time here

-and cherish the memories.

0:46:400:46:46

-But don't think I'm comparing myself

-to Charles Darwin.

0:46:480:46:53

-I'm merely following

-in the footsteps of a giant.

0:46:540:46:56

-These islands have created

-a lasting impression on me...

0:46:570:47:00

-..in terms of the wildlife

-and also the people.

0:47:010:47:03

-They show great care and passion

-for the islands.

0:47:040:47:07

-If there's a lesson to be learnt...

0:47:080:47:10

-..then we should follow

-the islanders' example...

0:47:110:47:14

-..and preserve the natural legacy.

0:47:140:47:17

-There might then be a future

-for us...

0:47:180:47:20

-..and the beautiful diversity

-of nature.

0:47:210:47:24

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:48:100:48:12

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0:48:120:48:13

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