Galapagos Yr Ynys

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-Every island

-transports you to another world.

-Where natural life and the nature

-of life have evolved...

-..in their own unique way.

-But due to the pressures of the

-modern world, the tide is turning.

-For better and for worse.

-In this series, we meet islanders

-all over the world.

-Those who are proud

-of their history...

-..who preserve their customs...

-..and who are patriotic.

-But globalization

-has made it impossible...

-..for islanders to stand alone.

-In many ways, these shores...

-..are leading the battle

-to save the planet.

-The island's fate

-is critical to us all.

-A thousand kilometres

-from Ecuador's mainland...

-..in the glistening Pacific Ocean...

-..lies the amazing archipelago

-of the Galapagos Islands.

-Formed after a volcanic eruption

-deep under the seabed...

-..this is the habitat

-of our planet's rarest species.

-Nature has had to adapt in order

-to survive in this environment.

-It has helped to build man's

-understanding of the natural world.

-I'm going to the Galapagos Islands.

-I have repeated those words

-to myself countless times recently.

-Whenever I mentioned to friends

-who have an interest in nature...

-..that I was coming here,

-they called me a lucky devil!

-Without wishing to romanticize...

-..it's among the few places on earth

-that's still an unspoilt paradise.

-The wild seas surrounding the

-Galapagos were a natural defence.

-For thousands of years,

-this rugged landscape...

-..was beyond the reach of man.

-Up until two centuries ago...

-..few people knew

-of the islands' existence.

-But 1835 was the year...

-..that changed the course

-of the islands' history.

-Charles Darwin landed here

-more or less by chance...

-..on his way home

-from an expedition to South America.

-It was during his exploration...

-..that Darwin developed his theories

-of natural selection and evolution.

-He began to realize...

-..that some of the answers to life's

-mysteries could be unlocked here.

-It took decades before he turned

-his early experiences...

-..into his theory of evolution.

-When The Origin Of Species

-was published...

-..he shattered ancient beliefs

-about the world around us.

-The charm of these remote islands

-has enchanted us ever since.

-Since the Galapagos have shown us

-the evolution of the human race...

-..they must also be able to show us

-what the future has in store.

-The islands are so important and so

-fragile that they must be protected.

-That's why they are

-a World Heritage Site.

-Man is the stranger

-in this habitat.

-Man was the last creature

-to arrive.

-Neither the native animals

-nor the world's rarest birds...

-..have learnt to fear us.

-Until recently,

-only a handful of people lived here.

-These days, the Galapagos Islands

-are home to 22,000 inhabitants.

-Almost half the population

-live on the island of Santa Cruz...

-..in the town of Puerto Ayora.

-These days, continuous streams

-of people and goods...

-..pass through the harbour,

-unlike 50 years ago...

-..before the steady stream

-of incomers arrived.

-The influx of immigrants...

-..has been a contentious issue

-in rural Wales for generations.

-It will be interesting for me

-to hear from the son...

-..of one of the first families

-to settle in the Galapagos.

-I'm looking forward

-to my conversation with Gil De Roy.

-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

-In the early days,

-the people who came here to live...

-..were fleeing the modern world.

-They craved the simple life,

-but more than that, freedom.

-Gil and his family live on a farm

-similar to that of his parents...

-..who came here from Belgium

-about 50 years ago.

-Growing up, Gil and his sister

-were at one with nature.

-He's still proud of the fact...

-..that he didn't own a pair of shoes

-until he was in his twenties.

-The woods and beaches

-were his classroom...

-..and he learnt all about

-the island's creatures.

-But Gil De Roy's paradise

-was short-lived.

-As the boy grew into a man,

-the tourist industry also grew.

-Gil seized the opportunity

-to use his practical knowledge.

-He used the family's boat

-to start a business as a tour guide.

-He also explored more of his native

-habitat in the company of tourists.

-I loved sharing my knowledge...

-..and getting to know the islands

-a little better.

-It was an invaluable experience.

-This is the only place on earth...

-..that allows man

-to connect with wildlife...

-..in its natural habitat.

-This is what attracted

-the early tourists.

-I remind myself that it is people...

-..who are the strangers here.

-But as more and more tourists

-came here...

-..the thrill of being a tour guide

-lost its appeal for Gil.

-He sought work that enabled him

-to spend more time at home.

-He now earns a living

-making jewellery.

-He's an accomplished

-jewellery designer.

-His creations are sold locally.

-The inspiration for his fine work

-comes from the natural world.

-But he has to appeal to the tastes

-of a wide range of tourists...

-..who come to the Galapagos.

-The number of tourists

-increases each year.

-During the early 1990s,

-60,000 tourists visited annually.

-That number has since trebled.

-I'm used to seeing

-Snowdonia's paths being eroded.

-To prevent something similar

-happening here...

-..the authorities have imposed

-restrictions on tourist areas.

-Gil tells me

-that I must be accompanied...

-..by a National Park official

-before visiting certain sites.

-But the same rules

-also restrict residents' freedom.

-Visiting the family's old boat

-was a strange experience.

-Gil is no longer allowed

-to use the boat.

-Restrictions have made life awkward.

-New rules mean that Gil

-isn't even allowed to weigh anchor.

-It's permanently moored here,

-trapped like a bird in a cage.

-All Gil wants is to be able

-to live closer to nature...

-..as he did previously.

-He claims to have lost his freedom.

-A considerable amount of freedom.

-Gil's bolt-hole...

-..is the family home in the hills

-beyond the bustle of Puerto Ayora.

-The family hopes to return

-to the simple life.

-Although he's keen for his daughter

-to learn jewellery design...

-..he intends to give it up

-in future...

-..to focus on being self-sufficient,

-detached from the outside world.

-I'm struck with a sense of both

-admiration and despair for Gil.

-He's a quiet yet strong character

-who grows his own coffee crop...

-..and manages to live frugally.

-Gil De Roy's goal

-is to build his own Utopia.

-But others have very different aims

-for the Galapagos.

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-Geologically, life is a very

-recent event on the Galapagos.

-For millions of years,

-these volcanic rocks were barren...

-..until seeds carried by the winds

-and migrating birds...

-..began to sprout.

-Land animals

-were carried by driftwood...

-..following heavy floods

-in faraway continents.

-But when people

-began to inhabit the islands...

-..strange new species

-were introduced.

-Many mice and insects came here

-unwittingly, in ships' holds.

-Others were introduced

-intentionally...

-..to provide sustenance

-for the new population.

-But the strange animals

-posed a serious threat...

-..to the islands' native species.

-Following thousands of years

-of separation...

-..they were unable to fight

-new diseases and compete for food.

-The giant tortoise

-is on the brink of extinction.

-These days, man's relationship

-with the giant tortoise...

-..is one of compromise.

-We're on farmland here.

-It's inevitable that the tortoise

-will eat the crops.

-If the tortoise is to survive,

-then we must learn to coexist.

-This farmer

-has adapted his methods...

-..by growing fruits on trees

-that tortoises can't reach...

-..thus protecting his crops.

-He also keeps cattle.

-The barbed wire

-has been positioned high enough...

-..for the tortoise

-to pass underneath it.

-But as I watch this creature...

-..I can't help but think

-of thousands of his ancestors...

-..that were captured

-by sailing vessels...

-..to provide food

-for the sailors on their voyages.

-But while this tortoise

-is likely to survive...

-..it is already too late

-for many more.

-The famous Lonesome George...

-..is the only remaining

-Pinta tortoise in the world.

-When he dies,

-the species will become extinct.

-One can only hope that George's fate

-will remind tourists...

-..of the fragile nature

-of these wonders.

-Nowadays, 150,000 tourists

-flock to these shores every year.

-As tourist numbers increase...

-..the very future of these islands

-hangs in the balance.

-I'm just one of the thousands.

-The Galapagos' astounding appeal

-is understandable.

-Nature is handed to you on a plate.

-I can stare

-right into this pelican's eyes.

-I think he will tire of me

-staring at him...

-..before I will tire of him.

-He's incredible.

-When you're given the opportunity

-to be this close to such a bird...

-..you notice how cold his eyes are.

-I remember reading an article

-by Bill Condry in The Guardian...

-..about the great blue heron.

-He said

-that by staring into its eyes...

-..you can see how they have

-descended from dinosaurs.

-Remembering things like that

-is incredibly appropriate...

-..here in the Galapagos.

-That's enough.

-It's his place, after all.

-Yes, the Galapagos Islands

-belong to their creatures.

-But these days, they rely on people

-to care for them...

-..people like vet Marilyn Cruz.

-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

-She's passionate about animals.

-She learns something new every day

-by being with them.

-She feels there's an understanding

-between the animals and her.

-When I'm with the sea lions,

-I forget everything else.

-I forget about the world.

-I focus completely on the animals.

-The Galapagos' sea lions

-are unlikely to become extinct...

-..but they are under threat.

-Rising sea temperatures

-and climate change...

-..has affected the food chain

-in the Galapagos.

-These days, there are fewer fish

-to feed the sea lions...

-..and many have died

-from disease and famine.

-Marilyn has created a database

-to monitor the sea lions' health.

-But she's also keen to protect them

-from another kind of danger.

-An unexpected danger.

-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

-Owning a dog has become fashionable

-on the islands.

-They're a problem because they carry

-a number of diseases.

-It's difficult to prevent these

-diseases spreading to wildlife.

-We have to be very cautious.

-Distemper poses a serious threat.

-It was first detected in 2001.

-The disease spreads like wildfire.

-The disease wreaked havoc last time,

-killing 400 dogs.

-Once the disease takes hold...

-..it is easily passed on to other

-animals through the dog's saliva.

-Marilyn worries

-that distemper could wipe out...

-..the islands' sea lion population.

-By monitoring

-the sea lions' health...

-..Marilyn and her team of wardens

-hope to prevent an epidemic.

-SEA LION SCREECHES

-Catching a sea lion

-requires patience.

-Once it has been caught,

-the veterinary work begins.

-The more information collected...

-..the better the chance

-of protecting the animals.

-It's good to know there have been

-no cases of distemper detected...

-..among the sea lions

-of San Cristobal.

-These are merely

-preventative measures...

-..to keep diseases at bay.

-For many, it is the sea lions

-that define the Galapagos Islands.

-It is the pups

-that are most at risk...

-..because their immune system

-has not yet fully developed.

-Samples of blood, saliva and faeces

-are taken.

-The pups' condition reflects

-the health of the entire population.

-The vet cuts a pattern

-in the sea lion's coat...

-..to allow them to recognize it

-in future.

-It requires expertise to treat

-a wild animal so effortlessly.

-The work of Marilyn and her team

-is commendable.

-The fresh samples are quickly taken

-to the laboratory.

-If disease is detected...

-..they are able to take

-immediate action.

-We must protect our species

-for all our sakes.

-The animals are part

-of an evolutionary process...

-..the likes of which you won't

-find elsewhere in the world.

-She is laying a foundation

-for the future.

-If the islands' creatures

-were struck by disease...

-..scientists would come here

-to find the answers.

-This work is important to those

-who want to preserve wildlife...

-..and the natural world.

-It's vital to animals and to us...

-..because we share that environment

-with them.

-Today, man's intervention

-is evident.

-In the current climate,

-that isn't about to change.

-Puerto Ayora has a population of

-12,000 and its economy is thriving.

-Jobs and wages here

-are better than in Ecuador.

-Muchas gracias.

-Gracias.

-In 2010, due to a sudden rise

-in population...

-..Ecuador's government

-ordered a census of the islands.

-Schoolchildren

-were sent to collect statistics.

-The information will be used

-to plan for the future.

-It's clear that the town

-will have to expand further.

-Every spare inch of land

-is being replaced by concrete.

-But it has to end somewhere...

-..and in this case,

-it's the National Park boundary.

-Before the ink has dried

-on the census forms...

-..the government

-is eager to assert its authority.

-I'd never met an immigration officer

-before coming to the Galapagos...

-..let alone seeing someone

-such as Erick Sotomayor at work.

-Erick is the head of a unit

-of twelve officers.

-Each week, they intercept traffic

-to check travellers' documents.

-I'm not comfortable

-in this sort of situation...

-..but it's a regular occurrence

-for the people of the Galapagos.

-The aim of these spot checks...

-..is to catch people

-who are working here illegally.

-They are searching

-for drivers today.

-Immigration is an emotive subject...

-..but the authorities are determined

-to keep it under control.

-The vast majority

-live here legally.

-But it's a tough job

-to catch all the illegal immigrants.

-ERICK SPEAKS SPANISH

-When somebody doesn't have

-the relevant papers...

-..we check whether they're on

-the civic register.

-That's how we find out whether they

-have the right to be here or not.

-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

-Muchas gracias.

-Erick is the officer responsible

-for organizing the traffic checks.

-They only have half an hour.

-Word travels fast

-on such a small island.

-People are on their mobile phones

-straight away.

-They have to work quickly

-then move to a different location.

-They're only here a short time

-before moving elsewhere.

-According to some, Erick

-and the officers are heavy-handed.

-He acknowledges

-that his job is far from easy.

-Erick tells me that he and his

-colleagues have been threatened.

-Threatened with violence.

-Erick is called back to the office

-to deal with a serious matter.

-They have caught two people...

-..who don't have

-the necessary paperwork.

-I'm here at the office to find out

-what's going to happen to them.

-Two days ago, this young woman...

-..was asked to produce

-her residency papers.

-She doesn't have the necessary

-documents and has confessed...

-..that she is an illegal immigrant.

-By law,

-she must be deported immediately.

-Erick must ensure that she boards

-the next plane to Ecuador.

-THEY SPEAK SPANISH

-The police escort her to the

-airport, while Erick follows...

-..to ensure the deportation

-process is carried out.

-That is his duty.

-His conscience is clear.

-He is aware of the dangers

-of overpopulation...

-..to the islands' unique habitat.

-If there were no laws

-to protect the Galapagos...

-..I'm convinced some of our

-native species would become extinct.

-It would be total chaos here.

-Man would be the only species

-to survive.

-That is his stark message.

-But Erick isn't made of stone.

-He knows that there is pain

-behind every case like this.

-It appears that the girl

-had come to the Galapagos...

-..to escape an unhappy marriage

-in Ecuador.

-When she returns home, she will

-be shunned by her community.

-Her husband

-could make life difficult for her.

-Erick says he will see

-what he can do to help her.

-This is a very poignant story.

-This girl is being deported

-to the mainland...

-..but I'm sure you would sympathize

-with her plight.

-But when you consider that

-she is one of 1,000 immigrants...

-..trying to work here illegally...

-..it puts the situation

-into context.

-The constitution of the Galapagos...

-..is very strict towards those

-who work and live here illegally.

-Some argue that it contravenes

-their human rights.

-But abolishing immigration control

-could cause an economic collapse...

-..and would certainly cause

-an ecological collapse.

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-Santa Cruz

-was my first port of call.

-It's now time to visit

-some of the less populated islands.

-I'm heading to Isabela.

-The sea horse-shaped island

-is the largest in the chain.

-It only has 4,000 inhabitants.

-They only moved there

-relatively recently.

-Puerto Villamil is Isabela's

-most populated village.

-It's here that you get a sense

-of the way the islands were...

-..before the boom in tourism

-happened some 20 years ago...

-..and transformed other islands.

-The atmosphere is calmer

-and more laid back.

-In that respect,

-I feel much more at home here.

-But even here in Villamil,

-the winds of change are blowing.

-The wildlife and the dream

-of a simpler life...

-..are what attracted people here.

-Among them is Mathias Espinosa.

-He and his wife, Maria Augusta,

-have lived here for six years.

-They both agree that Isabela

-is an ideal place to raise a family.

-The children and I...

-..love going to the beach

-in the morning.

-I go there in my pyjamas...

-..and sit and watch the animals

-do their thing.

-THEY SPEAK SPANISH

-The island's beauty has captivated

-Mathias and his family.

-It's their bread and butter too.

-Mathias is passionate

-about Isabela's wildlife.

-He works as a National Park guide.

-His biggest pleasure is sharing

-this habitat with visitors.

-It's a joy being in the company

-of someone so knowledgeable.

-But despite

-the relaxed atmosphere...

-..life on Isabela

-isn't all plain sailing.

-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

-Mathias complains

-about a lack of community spirit.

-Most islanders still consider

-Ecuador as their motherland.

-It was its fishing industry...

-..that lured

-many of Isabela's incomers.

-But greed has ravaged the seas.

-These days, the National Park

-prohibits commercial fishing.

-Fishermen are facing hardship.

-It's hoped that tourism will

-replace fishing as the main revenue.

-Puerto Villamil

-is now awash with tourists.

-More and more boats

-unload passengers...

-..each with dollars to spend.

-But Mathias worries

-that things are moving too fast.

-HE SPEAKS SPANISH

-We must rein in the economic growth

-and coexist with nature.

-If we fail to do that,

-then the animals will migrate...

-..and be replaced by concrete.

-People are undoubtedly

-a part of the problem.

-Conversely, it's people

-who can solve the problem.

-He wants people to work together

-to preserve the beauty.

-Just like many a Welshman

-with a vision...

-..Mathias has turned to music

-as a medium to spread the message.

-SHE SINGS IN SPANISH

-Isabela's waves, beaches,

-birds and animals...

-..provide the inspiration

-for the songs.

-Music is a powerful medium.

-It captures the imagination...

-..and reaffirms the importance

-of protecting the Galapagos.

-We've been writing and performing

-songs for more than 20 years.

-These days, eight young bands

-play with us.

-They all write their own songs.

-If we can't strike a balance...

-..between people

-and the natural world here...

-..the human race may as well

-go to live on the moon.

-But the preservation of nature

-isn't just confined to the land.

-The seas

-are teeming with marine life.

-Here, the Pacific's

-warm and cold currents collide.

-The waters are overflowing

-with food and nutrients.

-But man's greed

-is evident once again...

-..and putting one creature

-in danger.

-The shark.

-A bowl of the famous shark fin

-soup will set you back 100.

-That price prompts people

-to hunt sharks in the cruellest way.

-The fins are the only thing of value

-to these illegal fishermen.

-It is the shark's fate to be

-dissected with a sharp knife...

-..and thrown back into the water

-to die.

-The battle to prevent

-illegal fishermen begins here...

-..at Santa Cruz's radar station...

-..where they monitor every vessel

-entering Galapagos waters.

-The Ecuadorian navy

-patrols the marine reserve.

-By working in tandem with

-the National Park authorities...

-..they receive data from

-the headquarters on the mainland.

-Very good.

-The radar control centre

-in Santa Cruz...

-..monitors a vast expanse of sea...

-..and thousands of kilometres

-of coastline.

-Once the station

-spots a suspicious vessel...

-..the Armada del Ecuador is called

-to monitor the situation.

-The Armada

-is a division of the navy...

-..which has the power to search

-any vessel and arrest any seaman...

-..suspected of illegal activity.

-Although commercial fishing

-has been prohibited...

-..the sharks and their valuable fins

-are still under threat.

-In order to protect the seas...

-..the authorities must be

-one step ahead of the villains.

-Sometimes, a keen nose

-is better than a beady eye.

-I've always admired Labradors.

-But four-year-old Nico

-is one in a million.

-He has been trained to sniff out

-shark fins hidden on the boats.

-Due to the vastness

-of the marine reserve...

-..Nico's help is required

-almost every day.

-He's used to everything

-that his job entails.

-These days,

-as the islands' population grows...

-..more and more cargo ships

-sail in and out of the ports.

-They are perfect places to hide

-illegal goods such as shark fins.

-If they are here,

-then Nico is sure to sniff them out.

-Climbing over empty gas canisters

-is dangerous.

-Nico and his master

-must tread very carefully.

-Heavy cargo reaches the Galapagos

-on boats like this.

-They offload the cargo

-at San Cristobal harbour.

-I really admire Nico's skills.

-There are numerous smells

-to contend with...

-..including vegetables,

-diesel and saltwater.

-It would be impossible for us.

-The dog is searching...

-..for illegal imports and exports,

-but especially exports.

-There is a trend

-in the affluent west...

-..to collect rare animals

-and birds' eggs.

-They are sometimes smuggled

-onto boats such as this one.

-People here are relatively poor...

-..so they are tempted

-by the illegal market.

-This is the first step

-in preventing that.

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-The sea surrounding the Galapagos

-is a Mecca for divers.

-Before coming to the islands,

-I completed a scuba diving course.

-But you have to respect

-these waters.

-The Russian divers I'm with today

-are far more experienced than me.

-Somebody's low air...

-..so we just going to get down...

-The diving trips are expensive...

-..but the luxurious boat

-is a world away...

-..from the sea beneath it.

-Sometimes, it means disappointment.

-It would have been very amusing...

-..seeing me,

-an inexperienced Welshman...

-..swimming alongside

-the experienced Russian divers.

-The organizer said

-that the current was too strong...

-..for an inexperienced swimmer

-like myself.

-I've only spent four days

-underwater...

-..or rather four dives

-at Vivian Quarry.

-It's a world away

-from diving here in the Galapagos.

-I'm a little disappointed...

-..but there's also an element

-of relief.

-The strong current

-is the greatest danger.

-The creatures, including the sharks,

-are relatively harmless.

-But you don't have to be

-an experienced scuba diver...

-..to get a closer view

-of marine life.

-Thankfully, I'm a better sailor

-than I am a diver.

-Yasmania Llerena is a biologist,

-heading a team of scientists...

-..who are trying to protect

-the young sharks of the Galapagos.

-Yasmania is creating a database

-about the life cycle of sharks.

-There are 30 native breeds of shark

-in the islands' waters.

-We know very little about them.

-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

-It's essential that we study

-the sharks of the Galapagos...

-..to understand the relationship

-between the species.

-But catching a shark requires skill.

-They are restless creatures that

-are only still when giving birth.

-The best place to catch them

-is in a shark nursery...

-..in order to collect samples

-and fit an electronic tag.

-Although it's time-consuming work,

-Yasmania never complains.

-SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

-I'm at my happiest

-when I'm at one with nature...

-..especially when I'm with sharks,

-because they're incredible.

-I learn something new every day

-at the reserve.

-The shark is at the top

-of the food chain...

-..so if the population is healthy

-in these waters...

-..the other marine life

-is healthy too.

-Once the tag has been fitted....

-..it's important to ensure

-that the shark has recovered...

-..and is able to swim well enough

-to avoid danger.

-My tour of the Galapagos

-is drawing to an end...

-..but the visit to my final island

-promises a special experience.

-This is the real Galapagos.

-The wild islands that have

-never been touched by man.

-This is North Seymour Island.

-I'm already sensing that this

-is going to be a special experience.

-I never thought I'd say I was

-used to seeing marine iguanas.

-But on the arid terrain

-of North Seymour...

-..I caught my first glimpse

-of the land iguana.

-As I watched him...

-..I was again reminded

-that I'm the stranger here.

-The booby

-is an accomplished fisherman...

-..despite sharing its name

-with a stupid person.

-It's also a rare chance

-to see the Galapagos dove.

-It was the beginning of December

-and an unusual time to see chicks.

-But the seasons here

-are unlike our own.

-Frigate birds inflate their red

-pouches during the mating season.

-But during the rearing season,

-scientists now believe...

-..that it summons the hen back

-to her nest to feed her chicks...

-..further proof that we have

-much to learn about these islands.

-THE SEA LION BARKS

-Charles Darwin spent five weeks

-here in the Galapagos.

-Following 20 years of reflection,

-The Origin Of Species was published.

-It revolutionized the way

-we looked at the natural world.

-I will also reflect on my time here

-and cherish the memories.

-But don't think I'm comparing myself

-to Charles Darwin.

-I'm merely following

-in the footsteps of a giant.

-These islands have created

-a lasting impression on me...

-..in terms of the wildlife

-and also the people.

-They show great care and passion

-for the islands.

-If there's a lesson to be learnt...

-..then we should follow

-the islanders' example...

-..and preserve the natural legacy.

-There might then be a future

-for us...

-..and the beautiful diversity

-of nature.

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

-.