Llanberis-Trefor Arfordir Cymru


Llanberis-Trefor

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-There's a story behind the name

-of every house, field...

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-..mountain and beach.

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-Our history

-isn't always on the surface.

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-You must search for it...

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-..and sometimes unlock it

-layer by layer.

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-We'll be focusing on the names

-of shores in this series.

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-Then, why start

-in the middle of the mountains?

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-The journey ahead,

-on land and sea...

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-..will be influenced by quarries.

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-Granite, lead, manganese...

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-..jasper, and, of course, slate.

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-We're in North Wales this time.

-This is Arfordir Cymru.

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-During this series, we'll

-travel along Llyn's coastal path...

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-..which stretches

-from Caernarfon to Porthmadog.

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-84 miles

-of quaint seaside villages...

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-..rocks and caves.

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-I'll be meeting the area's locals...

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-..and hearing the stories

-behind these lovely names.

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-This is

-one of the last strongholds...

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-..where the Welsh language,

-its idioms and dialect...

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-..is spoken

-by the majority of inhabitants.

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-And it's water, be it river or sea,

-that will lead the way.

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-We'll also explore the rivers

-at each end of our journey...

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-..following the Seiont

-from Llanberis to Caernarfon...

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-..before circling

-the Llyn Peninsula and Bardsey...

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-..and joining the River Dwyryd

-towards Blaenau Ffestiniog.

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-Although the Llyn Peninsula

-will claim most of our attention...

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-..our journey covers a wider area...

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-..touching the shores

-of Arfon and Eifionydd.

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-Flanking the series at both ends...

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-..is slate.

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-It's left its mark

-not only on the landscape...

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-..but in a more abstract way,

-on people's way of thinking...

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-..their literature

-and their speech.

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-In its heyday, 3,000 men

-worked at the Dinorwic quarry.

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-They had

-their own unique vocabulary.

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-In some quarries, the word the men

-used for quarrelling was haldiwario.

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-There was a different vocabulary

-in different areas.

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-They had names for their tools too,

-such as miniar bach.

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-This was the Cyn Manollt.

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-The name given to this was a cowjan.

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-In this programme, we follow

-the water from Llanberis...

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-..to the Menai Strait before making

-our way to the village of Trefor.

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-Llyn Padarn was formed

-at the end of the last Ice Age.

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-It's home to the char...

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-..a rare breed of fish which is

-only found in glacial waters.

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-Anglers fish for trout and salmon

-in the river below the lake.

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-I think I'll try my luck.

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-Seiont means strong and powerful.

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-In certain parts,

-it's easy to understand why.

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-Huw Hughes is secretary...

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-..of the Seiont,

-Gwyrfai and Llyfni Fishing Society.

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-You're in a place of

-exceptional beauty, I must admit.

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-I wouldn't call it beautiful,

-I'd call it magical.

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-Especially on a day like today.

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-How long

-have you been fishing this river?

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-I've been fishing in these waters

-since I was 11 years of age.

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-Our aim is to head for the sea

-and try to follow the water...

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-..from Llyn Padarn and downwards.

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-You use the name Saint

-for this river.

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-As the river

-runs from Llyn Padarn...

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-..down to the sea, that stretch

-of water is called Saint.

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-Everyone refers to it as Seiont

-and it's Seiont on the maps.

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-I assume

-there are various names along it?

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-Yes, there are interesting names.

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-When you start out from Llyn Padarn,

-the two pools you come to...

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-..are Rhyd Bach and Rhyd Mawr...

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-..which run into a lake

-called Llyn Bogelyn.

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-Llyn Bogelyn?

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-It runs from Llyn Bogelyn

-to what they call Seston Fawr.

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-There are no other

-antiquated names...

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-..until you reach Pont Rhythallt.

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-Because there's a station there...

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-..they call the turn Tro Tryciau.

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-The place below that

-is called Fflatiau Hen Lanciau.

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-What did the hen lanciau

-(unmarried men) do there, I wonder?

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-The lake above this pool

-is called Llyn Doctor.

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-And then we reach here.

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-It's called Llyn Tywod,

-as I understand...

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-..because the mill

-treated the slate with sand...

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-..quite possibly to clean it.

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-The sand washed the water and

-the riverbed was a blanket of sand.

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-That's why it's called Llyn Tywod.

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-We own

-a large part of the River Gwyrfai.

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-Some of the pools have interesting

-names. Llyn Fuwch (Lake Cow).

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-That's above Pont Y Gwredog

-and Carreg Pechodau (Rock of Sins).

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-Have you ever heard of that?

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-There was a bwytwr pechodau

-(sin eater) from Waunfawr.

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-They'd put something really tasty

-like bread or cake...

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-..on the chest of the deceased

-and place them on the rock.

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-Someone would then come around

-and eat them.

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-You have to ask, who ate his sins?

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-Of course,

-there's always a pecking order!

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-If he was being paid, it'd take

-a lot of money to eat all my sins!

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-The Seiont reaches the estuary

-near Caernarfon Castle...

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-..which is testament to Edward I's

-decision to placate the Welsh.

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-Its strategic location

-next to the Menai Strait...

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-..facilitated control of the water

-between the mainland and Anglesey.

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-The town's name is easily explained.

-Caer (fort) ar (on) Fon (Anglesey).

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-A fort opposite Anglesey.

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-In the shadow of the imposing castle

-is the slate quay...

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-..which is now a car park.

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-As the name suggests,

-this place has a very rich history.

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-The slate quay was an essential link

-of the slate industry's chain.

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-During the Industrial Revolution...

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-..cities were rapidly expanding...

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-..and there was

-a sustained demand for slate...

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-..to build factories and houses.

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-It was Dyffryn Nantlle slate

-which came here.

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-It'd reach the slate quay...

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-..before being loaded on to ships

-and exported worldwide.

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-The Menai isn't a river, it's a

-strait between island and mainland.

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-The name's origin is unknown.

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-It's possible that the Men

-refers to Myned, the verb to go...

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-..or to flow.

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-The Menai can be very unpredictable

-in terms of its tides, currents...

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-..and sandbanks.

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-I'd better take someone experienced

-along with me.

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-For many years, salmon fishing...

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-..was a very important pursuit

-in Caernarfon.

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-Tony Lovell comes from a long line

-of Caernarfon's salmon fishermen.

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-How long have the Lovells

-been salmon fishing?

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-About a century, I'd say.

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-It might even be longer.

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-Along with

-other families in the town.

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-Yes, many other families.

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-You've brought

-a photo of yourself in your heyday.

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-Yes, I've brought one of me

-when I was 20 years old.

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-Which one are you?

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-The thinnest, of course.

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-The thin, fit one.

-Who are the other men?

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-Jim Lovell, Ned Dolly Head.

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-Tommy Walley...

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-..Tony Lovell and Jack Bank.

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-There were

-quite a few characters among us.

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-I'm sure you had fun.

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-What was your job on the boat?

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-It was my duty

-to steer the boat, coil the ropes...

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-..and get the boat ready

-for the next haul.

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-How do you

-go about catching salmon?

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-We'd start out from the dock

-at four hours of tide...

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-..which means from high tide.

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-You mean when the tide

-has been at its height?

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-Yes, we'd come to the fishing patch.

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-What happened there?

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-We more or less went straight out,

-to the large float.

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-We turned at a 45-degree angle

-and went out on an arc.

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-So you went

-straight out to half the net...

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-..and then 45 degrees after that.

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-Then we came to

-what we call the outer pole.

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-From the outer pole,

-we had a rope to shore.

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-We rowed full speed to shore...

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-..and then it's haul away.

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-You call it haul away?

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-Were there names for these patches?

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-Yes.

-Treasure Island was by Number 9.

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-What's Number 9?

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-The largest buoy

-at the entrance to the dock.

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-Why Treasure Island?

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-Ned Lovell made up that name

-because he'd been lucky there.

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-Further down is Glasddwr,

-heading towards Porth Lleidiog.

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-Then there was Ty Calch,

-Traeth Gwyn and Belan.

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-Did everyone get on well?

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-Did everyone get on well?

-

-Yes, very well.

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-Was there ever any envy if one of

-you had caught more than the other?

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-Of course!

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-But it was always lots of fun.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-We're on the trail of place names

-and the stories behind them...

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-..along the shores

-of northwest Wales.

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-We're at the southern tip

-of the Menai Strait.

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-Llanfaglan Church

-dates from the 13th century...

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-..and is dedicated

-to Saint Baglan ap Dingad.

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-Here we focus

-on the derivation of other names.

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-Personal names.

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-Ifor Williams is active

-with the Welsh Place-Name Society...

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-..and is also the caretaker

-of this ancient church.

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-There are hundreds of years

-of history in these walls.

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-I couldn't help but notice the pews

-as I walked in.

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-There are dates and letters

-inscribed on mostly all of them.

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-Yes, almost all.

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-The letters denote the names

-of the pews' owners.

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-The letter at the top always

-refers to the family's surname.

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-Husband on the left,

-wife on the right.

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-William and Anne Humphreys

-in this case.

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-They farmed Plas Llanfaglan,

-the land surrounding the church.

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-More than 300 acres of farmland.

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-I assume it was the most wealthy

-and influential families...

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-..who owned the larger pews?

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-..who owned the larger pews?

-

-Yes, they paid someone to make them.

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-Ordinary folk made do

-with pews like that one there.

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-That's where I'd sit.

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-That's where I'd sit.

-

-Me too.

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-These pews were a mark of

-a person's status in society, then?

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-Precisely. This one's the best,

-it's made from oak.

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-In today's terms,

-it's the Rolls Royce of pews.

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-I have to ask,

-who owned the main pew?

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-David and Margaret Jones,

-whose memorial is behind us.

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-They were a wealthy family.

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-David Jones

-lived in Cefn Coed, Llanfaglan.

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-He was a 52-year-old widower.

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-Margaret was an 18-year-old

-from Bodfan, Llandwrog.

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-David fancied Margaret.

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-I'm sure he did.

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-The two married two years later

-when she was 20 and he was 54...

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-..on the shortest day of the year

-in Llandwrog Church in 1764.

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-There's a carving down here too.

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-It might be graffiti,

-for all we know!

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-I'd say the son had been a naughty

-boy and carved his name on this pew.

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-RI, 1784.

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-So you can date the carving.

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-So you can date the carving.

-

-Yes, that's what's great about it.

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-It's essential for history.

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-Which son was this, then?

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-Which son was this, then?

-

-Richard Jones, the second son.

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-We know exactly how old he was

-when he wrote this.

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-He was 10 or 11 years old.

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-His father

-must've given him a hiding!

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-I wouldn't have liked

-to have been in his shoes!

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-In order to leave the Menai behind,

-we sail pass Braich Abermenai...

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-..through a narrow gap

-where the sea is choppy and wild.

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-We're on our way out of

-the Menai Strait through the Gap...

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-..as Caernarfon fishermen

-refer to it.

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-Many people

-have been caught out here.

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-Whoa!

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-The tide runs this way

-and the wind hits us head-on.

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-When those two forces collide...

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-..it can be

-exceptionally dangerous here.

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-As we leave the Menai Strait...

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-..and keep to the left

-of Arfon's shores, the sea's calmer.

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-We'll travel along a stretch of sea

-called Sianel Gwyr Nefyn...

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-..a name which I assume

-came about from the fishing trade...

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-..between Caernarfon and

-the fishing town of Nefyn in Llyn.

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-But the Nefyn fishermen...

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-..didn't call this choppy

-stretch of water the Menai Strait.

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-They called it Afon G'narfon.

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-Sailing southwards,

-we're aiming for...

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-..the long arm

-of the Llyn Peninsula.

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-We're in ancient territory,

-full of myth and legend.

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-Many of the area's names...

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-..are associated

-with one of our earliest legends.

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-The story of Math Fab Mathonwy,

-the King of Gwynedd.

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-Dinas Dinlle,

-Caer Arianrhod and Maen Dylan...

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-..relate to the legend first

-recorded in the 11th century...

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-..though it's far older than that.

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-I'll simplify it as much as I can.

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-Basically, Math fab Mathonwy...

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-..had to rest his feet

-in the lap of a virgin.

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-Arianrhod, from Caer Arianrhod,

-was chosen for that purpose.

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-In order to prove her virginity...

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-..she had to step over Math's rod.

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-The minute she did that,

-she gave birth to a baby...

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-..who was born of the sea and

-who dived straight into the water.

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-He was named Dylan Ail Don...

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-..and somehow or other,

-he's associated with Maen Dylan.

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-When Dylan Ail Don was born...

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-..a lump of flesh came with him.

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-It was put in a chest, and

-when the chest was later opened...

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-..a little

-fair-haired boy was inside.

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-It caused Arianrhod immense shame...

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-..and she swore this child

-would never have a name...

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-..unless the name came from her.

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-Following all kinds of wizardry

-synonymous with the Mabinogion...

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-..the child

-came face to face with Arianrhod...

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-..when he was disguised

-as a shoemaker.

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-As he measured Arianrhod's foot

-for a shoe...

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-..a little bird landed nearby.

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-The child threw a stone

-and hit the bird on its leg.

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-Arianrhod exclaimed, "The fair one

-struck with a deft hand".

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-That's how the child got his name,

-from Arianrhod.

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-He was named Lleu Llaw Gyffes...

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-..the

-Fair-Haired One of the Skilful Hand.

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-According to some, Dinas Dinlle...

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-..is derived from Dinas Dyn Lleu

-(The town of the man called Lleu).

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-If there's any connection

-between Dinas Dinlle and Lleu...

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-..it'd suggest that he was named

-after Leucos, the god of light.

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-Lleu's character

-is reminiscent of the god.

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-But examples

-of the element Dinlle...

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-..appear in names

-which have no connection with Lleu.

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-It's strongly argued that Dinlle

-is an element by itself.

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-That is to say, dyn lle,

-a place where you'll find a man...

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-..or a fort.

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-And here it is.

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-Or what's left

-of the hill fort nowadays.

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-Objects dating back to

-the second and third centuries...

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-..have been unearthed here...

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-..but the sea is eroding

-more and more of the land.

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-The only thing that's left

-is this foreland semi-circle.

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-As the erosion process continues...

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-..we're likely to lose all this...

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-..and the connection

-between ourselves...

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-..and those who lived here 2,000

-years ago will be gone forever.

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-Moving further southwards,

-we pass Aberdesach.

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-Desach means

-belonging to the Deisi...

0:20:530:20:56

-..a Celtic tribe from Ireland who,

-it's claimed, settled here awhile.

0:20:570:21:02

-As we sail across the bay, there's

-a place to shelter in Trefor.

0:21:090:21:14

-In the earliest records, the town

-of Caernarfon is spelt with a V.

0:21:290:21:34

-It was only later

-that the Welsh F replaced it.

0:21:340:21:38

-The same is true here.

-Trefor is spelt with the Welsh F.

0:21:380:21:43

-You could argue that you should keep

-the V in the village's spelling...

0:21:430:21:49

-..because this isn't

-a major town or a seaside town.

0:21:490:21:52

-Trefor is a personal name.

0:21:530:21:55

-Trefor Jones.

0:21:550:21:57

-Yr Hendre or Yr Hendre Fawr

-was its ancient name.

0:22:020:22:06

-However,

-during the mid-19th century...

0:22:060:22:09

-..the Welsh Granite Company noticed

-people living on Yr Eifl's slopes...

0:22:090:22:14

-..were digging for granite

-and transporting it.

0:22:140:22:17

-Trefor Jones

-was the company's supervisor.

0:22:170:22:21

-He realised

-that this was premium stone.

0:22:210:22:24

-Mining began and people

-flocked here to work in the quarry.

0:22:240:22:28

-In 1856, the foundation stone

-was laid for this row of houses.

0:22:300:22:36

-Later, an entire village

-was built around them.

0:22:360:22:40

-Standing here, in the heart

-of the works, gives you an idea...

0:22:560:23:00

-..of the quarry's influence

-on the area.

0:23:010:23:03

-An industrial landscape juxtaposed

-with exceptional scenic beauty.

0:23:040:23:10

-It was an enormous venture.

0:23:100:23:12

-As a sign of appreciation

-for Trefor Jones' hard work...

0:23:120:23:16

-..the quarry's owners decided...

0:23:170:23:19

-..to call

-this village below me Trefor.

0:23:190:23:23

-Now that's what you call

-immortalised!

0:23:230:23:27

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:440:23:46

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0:23:460:23:46

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