Porth Fesyg- Ynys Enlli Arfordir Cymru


Porth Fesyg- Ynys Enlli

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-We're on a journey along

-the spectacular Llyn Peninsula...

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-..in search of the names, people and

-stories that litter these shores.

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-This is the remarkable story

-of the Welsh coastline.

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-We travel from Porth Fesyg

-in the parish of Llangwnnadl...

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-..along the Llyn coastline...

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-..before we cross

-to the sacred Bardsey Island.

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-We're in an area

-of outstanding natural beauty...

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-..heading to a portion of land

-that Cynan referred to...

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-..as Pendraw'r Byd (Land's End).

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-Bardsey Island beckons us...

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-..to embark on a pilgrimage,

-as generations before us have done.

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-Walking the shores,

-it's hard not to lose yourself...

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-..in the area's beauty,

-history and incredible stories.

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-Some claim

-Porth Fesyg gets its name...

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-..from the Lafesyg ship

-which came to shore...

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-..laden with oats, meat and butter.

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-The ship was looted...

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-..and its contents were taken

-to a nearby house called Y Badell.

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-Workers there

-were turning the soil in the garden.

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-It's mentioned in a verse.

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-"I went to Y Badell

-to turn the soil

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-"I had a flummery for lunch

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-"With lashings

-of porridge and butter

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-"And beef from Porth Lafesyg."

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-We've researched

-up until the mid-18th century...

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-..and found no record

-of a ship called Lafesyg...

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-..coming to shore here.

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-The book Enwau Afonydd

-A Nentydd Cymru suggests...

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-..that the name

-means something dirty or polluted...

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-..referring to a small stream

-running down to the beach.

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-However, the beach itself

-is a place of beauty.

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-Hand in hand with beauty

-comes the perilous sea.

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-1933 was

-a year of heartbreak in the area.

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-I'm in Porth Widlin to learn more.

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-So this small bay is Porth Widlin?

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-Yes, this is it.

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-Yes, this is it.

-

-It's a hazardous shoreline...

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-..for any vessel.

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-..for any vessel.

-

-Yes, it is.

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-Luckily, a disaster

-was averted in Porth Cychod...

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-..in Tudweiliog.

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-Two men went out in a boat

-on a choppy sea and lost their oars.

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-They were far from shore

-and they were carried to Ireland.

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-With no oars or anything.

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-But a tragic story...

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-..is associated with Porth Widlin.

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-..is associated with Porth Widlin.

-

-Yes, it was September.

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-There's a farm about two miles

-from here called Tir Dyrys.

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-Three brothers

-out of five siblings...

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-..made their way down here.

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-Trefgraig's maid came out and said

-to them, "Where are you going?"

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-They said,

-"We're going to check our nets...

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-"..to see if we've caught anything."

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-She said, "Don't go out today,

-the white horses are raging."

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-"No, it's fine, we're used to it" -

-so they went out to sea...

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-..just as they'd done

-countless times.

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-A wave must've come -

-no-one knows exactly what happened.

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-The boat overturned...

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-..and was recovered

-over there in Porth Fesyg.

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-What happened after that?

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-I've a letter here...

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-..written by the boys' aunt.

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-The writing is slightly illegible.

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-This is what she says.

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-"About one o'clock, the Gelli boy

-went to look for driftwood.

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-"He saw a boat

-filled with water on the shore...

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-"..and a body, face down inside it."

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-Someone was trapped in the boat.

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-Someone was trapped in the boat.

-

-"Dozens of people...

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-"..flocked to the shoreline

-to search until nightfall.

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-"'Oh,' said Dads, 'It's hard

-to return without them...

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-"'..knowing they're on the seabed.'"

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-So they weren't found right away?

-It sends a shiver down your spine.

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-It's a matter-of-fact response.

-You also have a second letter.

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-It's hard to believe that

-the same person wrote them both.

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-This was written after the funeral.

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-It's a detailed description.

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-The three

-were transported to the cemetery...

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-..on the back of a coal wagon.

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-I found parts of the letter

-strangely amusing.

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-It was followed

-by 26 small motorcars.

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-She also describes

-what people were wearing.

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-"A new black hat from Bon-Marche,"

-Pwllheli's best shop at the time.

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-It's certainly of its time.

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-It's certainly of its time.

-

-Yes, it is.

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-The clothes and the vocabulary.

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-The three brothers

-are buried together.

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-Yes, I've a record

-and a picture here from Y Cymro.

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-"The three audacious young men...

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-"..were taken by the sea.

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-"They set out innocently...

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-"..unaware of their impending doom."

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-"..unaware of their impending doom."

-

-That's their grave's inscription.

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-It emphasizes

-the dangers of the sea.

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-If the sea's made up its mind,

-that's the end of it.

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-Yes, it's all over then.

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-The coastal path leads us to

-the tranquillity of Porth Ferin...

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-..where St Merin's Church

-once stood.

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-Rumour has it...

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-..that the church was looted

-by thieves attacking from the sea.

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-They rushed back to their boats, one

-of them clutching the church bell.

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-He tried to jump over the ravine

-beneath the tree.

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-He fell head-first

-into this small brook.

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-That's why this exact spot is called

-Llam y Lleidr (Thief's Leap).

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-Many leaps westwards

-and we reach Porth Dinas.

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-Wil Evans moored his boat here

-for many years.

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-He's passionate about his locality.

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-I know you're very fond

-of collecting names, Wil.

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-This is great. How many are here?

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-This is great. How many are here?

-

-About 150, I'd say.

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-There are many more, but those

-are the ones in living memory.

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-Let's start

-with the rock in the distance.

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-Yes, that's Maen Mellt.

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-I don't know if it's true but it's

-claimed that it attracts lightning.

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-I believe it's true,

-although it's a great story.

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-Looking down the list,

-some names jump out.

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-What's the story

-behind Ogof Lliain Glas?

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-A ship that came to shore

-with a blue sail.

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-The sail was lost

-at Trwyn Glas in the distance.

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-Ogof Newry is close by too.

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-Many of these names are derived...

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-..from items

-that have been washed ashore.

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-Ogof Pren Coch (Redwood Cave)

-and so on.

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-What about Trwyn Rhwyda?

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-That's where they'd dry the herring.

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-There's a field nearby

-called Trwyn Rhwyda.

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-People put herring on the soil

-as a form of fertilizer.

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-Yes, that what they did years ago.

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-All these shores

-have been labelled...

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-..but this little corner...

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-It's familiar territory...

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-..so there are

-far more names listed.

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-What are we looking at here?

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-Dinas Bach.

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-Trwyn Wmffre.

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-Ogo Ddu Bach.

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-Ogo'r Edyn.

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-Trwyn Tywod. Trwyn Main.

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-Carreg Sion Tir Bonog.

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-That's an interesting story.

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-That's an interesting story.

-

-Who's Sion?

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-I don't know!

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-He was before my time!

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-That's how names are derived.

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-Yes, place names and first names.

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-There's a panoramic view

-of the peninsula here.

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-There's an interesting place called

-Pulpud Pedr (Peter's Pulpit) here.

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-These were playing fields years ago.

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-It was a place of revelry

-and wonder when we were children.

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-It makes you want to pray.

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-Pulpud Pedr

-is in a very dangerous setting.

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-Yes, not many people know

-of Pulpud Pedr.

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-It's an interesting place.

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-I'm sure

-you've spent countless hours here.

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-We could sing and shout here

-and no-one could hear us.

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-We'd look out to sea,

-face the waves and Ireland.

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-What if you had to

-leave this place behind?

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-I couldn't. I couldn't move inland.

-I've lived here all my life.

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-There's saltwater in my veins.

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-There's saltwater in my veins.

-

-I'm sure there is.

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-As we head to Bardsey Island,

-like many pilgrims before us...

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-..we reach an area once called

-Cymydfaen (Commote of the Rock).

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-And here it is. Maen Melyn Llyn

-(Llyn's Yellow Rock).

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-It's claimed that every stone

-mentioned in Revelations...

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-..can be found in Llyn.

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-"The foundations

-of the city walls...

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-"..were decorated

-with every kind of precious stone.

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-"The first foundation was jasper,

-the second sapphire...

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-"..the third agate,

-the fourth emerald."

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-And so on.

-It goes on to list 12 stones.

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-The first stone, jasper,

-is Llyn's yellow stone, in part.

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-There was a jasper quarry not too

-far from here in Llanllawen Fawr.

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-The colour of the stone

-and its name...

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-..has been derived

-from this yellow lichen.

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-It's incredibly striking.

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-It's a very unusual shape.

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-It's stood here since time

-immemorial, overlooking the waves...

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-..and Bardsey Island.

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-One can only imagine

-the pilgrims' relief...

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-..of arriving here, seeing this...

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-..and knowing that their

-arduous journey was almost over.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

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-The farthest corner

-of the Llyn Peninsula...

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-..is remarkably enchanting.

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-Someone who knows the area

-inside out is Huw Erith.

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-A poet and balladmonger

-in his spare time...

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-..though his calling is lobster

-fishing along these rugged shores.

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-I don't know what you'd call

-this familiar stretch of sea...

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-..but this is your locality.

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-Yes, Braich y Pwll...

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-..is the northernmost point

-of the Llyn Peninsula.

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-It's a dangerous place

-to earn a living.

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-Yes,

-it's no place to mess around in.

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-You must exercise caution

-and respect the sea.

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-Apart from lobsters,

-what else is in these waters?

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-Many things. There are secars coch

-which are large red crayfish.

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-Secars coch?

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-Secars coch?

-

-Yes.

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-Fish such as wrasse...

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-..cuckoo wrasse.

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-It's a type of wrasse.

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-There's

-a rainbow of colours in the sea.

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-There are sunfish...

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-..and triggerfish.

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-There's a variety of fish

-as well as velvet crabs.

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-You get a surprise every time!

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-It's an empty net most of the time!

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-I've read your autobiography...

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-..entitled

-Llanw Braich, Trai Bylan.

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-What on earth does that mean?

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-Braich y Pwll is there

-and Trwyn Bylan is over there.

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-Midway across here...

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-..the tide flows

-in different directions.

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-You can see the waters part.

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-You can see the waters part.

-

-The sea splits in two.

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-It makes me feel like Moses!

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-Looking into the distance...

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-..what's this stretch called?

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-..what's this stretch called?

-

-Braich y Pwll, Greigle beneath us...

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-..Trwyn Bylan, Bae Mawr...

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-..Trwyn Maen Melyn and Bae Ffynnon

-Fair, where pilgrims would cross.

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-Ogo Gath round the corner.

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-Fferm Gwyddel is on the coast,

-there's a Llechi Gwyddel...

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-..and Carreg Gwyddel

-outside Ffynnon Fair.

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-Twll Gwyddel Bach and

-Twll Gwyddel Mawr are crab holes.

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-As you turn into Porth Felen

-you'll come to Pared Llech Melyn...

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-..and Trwyn Prestyn.

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-In Bae Parwyd

-there are marks in the stone...

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-..which look like

-two cockerels fighting...

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-..with their feathers raised.

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-Then there's Trwyn Crych, Ogo Eural.

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-Once you're round Pen y Cil,

-you're back in Aberdaron Bay...

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-..at Llech Grainc, Henborth,

-Trwyn Dwmi, Porth Pistyll...

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-..Porth y Gloch, Cadair Cawr, and

-then you're back in Porth Meudy.

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-I'm sure I've forgotten many more...

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-..but some names have been lost.

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-I'm a stranger to these parts,

-so these views are breath-taking.

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-Are they still a wonder to you?

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-It's different

-every time you come here...

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-..depending on the wind.

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-It affects everything differently.

-You have to know when to come.

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-It's all about the timing!

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-It's all about the timing!

-

-You go by the tide, not the clock.

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-Pilgrims have left their mark

-on the shoreline leading to Bardsey.

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-From Cuff Beuno in Clynnog,

-where they kept their gifts...

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-..past Cae Eisteddfa in Pistyll

-where they'd treat their ailments.

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-Then you come to

-Llangwnnadl Church...

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-..which trebled in size

-to accommodate weary travellers...

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-..and you reach

-the ruins of Capel Mair...

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-..situated near the cliff's edge.

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-In a ravine beneath Capel Mair...

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-..steps have been carved

-into the stone...

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-..leading to Ffynnon Fair, which is

-situated in a perilous spot.

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-Though the sea's waves

-wash over the well...

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-..it is freshwater

-rather than saltwater that collects.

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-It's true, it's clear water.

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-Less than two miles from the Llyn

-shoreline, across Bardsey Sound...

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-..and its treacherous currents

-is Bardsey Island.

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-Enlli means a strong current.

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-And yet, when it's tranquil here...

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-..it makes a person feel...

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-..as though he's been blessed.

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-This is the fourth largest island

-off the Welsh coast...

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-..with a surface area of 440 acres.

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-We're on sacred soil.

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-This island has been

-an important religious site...

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-..ever since St Cadfan founded

-a monastery here back in 516AD.

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-They also say

-that 20,000 saints are buried here.

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-Ernest Evans

-was brought up on Bardsey.

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-He was one of the last pupils

-to attend the school here.

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-His knowledge of the island

-is legendary.

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-For an incomer like me, Ernest,

-coming here is quite an adventure.

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-This is home for you.

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-Yes, it is, although I currently

-only live here for half the year.

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-As I've been travelling around...

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-..talking to people,

-I've drawn a rough sketch...

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-..a sort of map

-and labelled the place names.

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-We're here at the moment, aren't we?

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-Yes, that's Trwyn y Fynwent.

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-Cwch Enlli ran aground here

-in 1826 or thereabouts.

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-People drowned here.

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-Where do we come to after that?

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-Where do we come to after that?

-

-Traeth Ffynnon.

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-There's a well on the side here

-that never runs dry.

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-You know you can go there.

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-It's never short of water.

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-You can depend on it.

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-Ogo Gaseg, Ogo Barcud.

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-Braich y Fwyell

-is an interesting name.

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-That's located down here.

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-Is it a particular shape?

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-Is it a particular shape?

-

-No, not really.

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-There's a crack in the rock.

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-As if an axe had cut into the stone?

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-Yes.

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-Further on we come to Ogo Morlas.

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-What's morlas in English? Pollock?

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-Coley.

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-Ah, yes. Pollock and coley

-are closely related.

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-Then you come to Ogo Nant.

0:19:370:19:40

-According to Lewis Morris' chart...

0:19:400:19:44

-..this is where ships docked.

0:19:440:19:47

-They called it Island Road.

0:19:470:19:49

-They'd carry pilgrims

-from Ffynnon Mair.

0:19:500:19:54

-They'd land on the rocks and then

-they carried them on to the beach.

0:19:540:19:58

-They used rowing boats back then.

0:19:590:20:01

-And further along?

0:20:010:20:03

-And further along?

-

-Ogo Trwyn yr Hwch.

0:20:030:20:05

-There are two of them - Trwyn

-yr Hwch Fawr and Trwyn yr Hwch Fach.

0:20:050:20:09

-They're both situated there.

0:20:100:20:13

-And then you come to Porth Solfach.

0:20:130:20:16

-And in Porth Solfach...

0:20:160:20:19

-..could you land there?

0:20:190:20:22

-Yes, that's where

-they used to land years ago.

0:20:220:20:26

-To the south of Solfach...

0:20:260:20:27

-To the south of Solfach...

-

-Trwyn Dihiryd.

0:20:270:20:29

-Trwyn Dihiryn?

0:20:290:20:30

-Trwyn Dihiryn?

-

-No, Dihiryd.

0:20:300:20:33

-I'm sure

-the name has changed over time.

0:20:330:20:37

-Maybe Dihiryn became Dihiryd?

0:20:370:20:40

-The field at the top here

-was called Baracs.

0:20:420:20:45

-Men might've camped here while

-they were building the lighthouse.

0:20:450:20:50

-That's one explanation.

0:20:500:20:52

-When was the lighthouse built?

0:20:520:20:55

-1821.

0:20:550:20:56

-Maybe the workers camped there.

0:20:570:20:59

-There's nothing then until you come

-to Ogo Lladron, right on the tip.

0:21:010:21:07

-It was called

-Ogo Morgan at one time.

0:21:070:21:11

-I don't know if it refers

-to a pirate of that name.

0:21:110:21:15

-Maybe he used it

-to stash his stolen items.

0:21:150:21:19

-Not nowadays...

0:21:190:21:21

-..but maybe at the time.

0:21:210:21:24

-There's very little afterwards

-till you get to Trwyn Siani Penrhyn.

0:21:250:21:29

-There was once a cottage

-in that sheltered area.

0:21:300:21:34

-It's possible

-that Siani Penrhyn lived there.

0:21:340:21:37

-Yes, she was probably

-the last woman who lived there.

0:21:380:21:42

-What does the future hold

-for such names on Bardsey?

0:21:420:21:45

-Very few use them nowadays.

0:21:450:21:47

-People who come to live here

-put their own names on them.

0:21:480:21:52

-Do they really? What kind of names?

0:21:520:21:55

-Especially for the land.

0:21:550:21:58

-They call the wetlands the Badlands.

0:21:590:22:03

-What's the name

-you're familiar with?

0:22:040:22:07

-Y Weirglodd.

0:22:070:22:08

-Weirglodd Ty Pell, Weirglodd

-Christy, Weirglodd Plas Bach.

0:22:090:22:13

-Each farm had its own wetlands.

0:22:130:22:16

-Is there a danger

-that these new names...

0:22:170:22:20

-..are going to

-replace the names you remember?

0:22:210:22:24

-No.

0:22:240:22:25

-No.

-

-Not if you remain obstinate!

0:22:250:22:27

-We're still here

-and we still use them.

0:22:270:22:30

-For many years, the island

-was part of the Newborough Estate.

0:22:340:22:39

-Farms were created

-and when residents had to choose...

0:22:390:22:42

-..between

-a new landing area and a chapel...

0:22:420:22:45

-..they chose a place of worship.

0:22:450:22:48

-But that wasn't the only

-significant thing that happened.

0:22:480:22:52

-It was also a tradition back then

-to elect a king of Bardsey.

0:22:520:22:57

-Four of them are known to us today.

0:22:570:23:00

-The last king, Love Pritchard,

-was quite a character.

0:23:000:23:04

-He declared that Bardsey

-remained a neutral power in WWI.

0:23:040:23:08

-There's certainly a feeling

-of isolation here, of peace.

0:23:090:23:13

-Something holy, perhaps.

0:23:130:23:15

-When you sit on the high ground

-and survey the view...

0:23:210:23:25

-..the clamour of the modern world

-seems far, far away.

0:23:260:23:30

-It's easy for someone to feel...

0:23:300:23:33

-..as privileged as any king

-on the face of the planet.

0:23:330:23:37

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:550:23:57

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0:23:580:23:58

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