Pennod 3 Arfordir Cymru


Pennod 3

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-The Pembrokeshire Coast.

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-A place famous for its

-spectacular scenery and wildlife.

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-Everyone agrees that its creatures

-and plant life should be protected.

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-But what about coastal place names?

-Those must also be protected.

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-In this series, our aim is to

-preserve some of them for posterity.

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-Our tour of the coast takes us

-from Goodwick near Fishguard...

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-..past Pen Caer and Pwll Deri...

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-..further south to Abercastle.

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-This is the sea opposite Fishguard.

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-Over the centuries, not everyone

-has been so welcoming to visitors.

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-People have always

-surveyed this coastline...

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-..with a combination

-of wonder and envy.

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-Some have even tried

-to claim this coast as their own.

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-This was the setting

-for the last invasion of Britain...

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-..by the French in 1797.

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-These cannons

-opened fire on the French.

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-But it's believed

-that blanks were fired...

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-..since the fort

-only had three cannonballs.

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-The history

-is captured at the Town Hall...

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-..in a hanging 100-foot tapestry

-sewn by 80 local women.

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-It's apt that this incredible work

-resembles the form and format...

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-..of the Bayeux Tapestry in France.

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-The French attacked for two days

-before conceding defeat.

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-Our ancestors knew that this land

-was worth fighting for.

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-This white dolmen in the heart

-of a housing estate in Pen Cw...

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-..proves that this land

-has been inhabited for centuries.

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-Somewhere in the mists of time...

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-..the origin of the name,

-Pen Cw, has disappeared.

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-But it's widely used

-in the local area.

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-Pen Cw is written

-with a circumflex above the W...

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-..though the postal address

-is Harbour Village.

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-As we circumnavigate Pen Caer...

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-..we pass the exact spot

-where the French landed.

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-It appears as a flat rock on maps...

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-..but the local name for it

-is Camp Y French.

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-The term

-has become a turn of phrase locally.

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-If things get the better of you,

-then it's Camp Y French for you...

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-..meaning that you might as well

-jump off a cliff into the sea.

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-I wouldn't like to fall off there!

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-We're nearing Porthsychan,

-or to give it its unofficial name...

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-..Porth y Gof.

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-Sychan must've been the stream...

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-..which flowed into the bay...

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-..and more than likely dried up

-during a summer heatwave.

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-Anglers to the south of here

-called the place Porth y Gof.

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-Porthsychan is its name

-from the direction of the land...

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-..and Porth y Gof is its name

-from the direction of the sea.

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-Having turned into the bay,

-I head inland...

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-..to search for the blacksmith

-after whom the area is named.

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-Jac Williams,

-otherwise known as Jac Pontiago...

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-..has worked

-in this little smithy all his life.

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-You were born and raised here, Jac.

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-It's a beautiful part of the world.

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-It's a beautiful part of the world.

-

-Yes, indeed.

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-We've just come from Pontsychan...

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-..which some people

-refer to as Aber y Gof.

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-Yes, that's what the people from

-Abereiddy and Porthgain called it.

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-My great-grandfather's boat was

-moored in a place called Bae'r Gof.

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-You're also a blacksmith by trade.

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-Yes, I learnt the craft.

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-You've worked here all your life?

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-Yes, but things have changed.

-The need for horses is dying out.

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-They're being replaced by tractors.

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-The garage

-is the other side of the road.

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-There are Morris Minors everywhere.

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-I'm a fan of them, as you can see!

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-You've spent the best part

-of your life on the sea shore.

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-Yes, and in Porthsychan Bay,

-of course.

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-I spent most of my time there.

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-There's a small beach nearby

-called Allt-y-Ffynnon.

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-Things were washed ashore

-from the sea during wartime.

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-What kind of things did you find?

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-All kinds of things - wax, oil...

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-..and things like that.

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-They must've come in handy.

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-They must've come in handy.

-

-I'd bring the wax here...

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-..and make candles from it

-using a bicycle pump.

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-I'd melt the wax in the furnace

-and pour it into the bicycle pump.

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-I'd then put twine in the middle

-to make a candle.

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-You've spent

-a lot of time in boats too.

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-I'd sail around

-Strumble Head Lighthouse...

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-..towards Aber Bach

-and up towards Allt-y-Ffynnon.

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-I'd row halfway to Goodwick.

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-I was used to rowing boats

-in those days.

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-That was as far as I could row!

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-There are lovely names on coastal

-areas surrounding Pen Caer...

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-..as you circumnavigate it.

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-I've been looking at old maps.

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-I've come across

-names like Y Globa Fawr.

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-Yes, that's between

-Allt-y-Ffynnon and Porthsychan.

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-There was also

-an Aber Dani and an Aber Morgan.

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-Aber Morgan got its name from

-a ship that had run aground...

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-..and whose captain

-was called Captain Morgan.

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-They called the estuary after him.

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-Further south, I noticed...

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-..that the names grab your attention

-because they're so unusual.

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-Pwll-ffyliaid (Fools' Pool).

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-That's right.

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-There are many stories about

-how Pwll-ffyliaid got its name...

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-..if you listen to

-the people who live nearby.

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-One of them, a local, had

-a small holding around that area.

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-He'd go to Haverfordwest...

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-..which is 25 miles from here.

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-He'd go to the livestock market

-or something like that.

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-He'd go halfway...

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-..and then come back home...

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-..because he thought

-he'd broken the journey in half.

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-That's apparently true.

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-How many people

-have the same accent as you?

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-It's quite a unique accent.

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-You have a vocabulary

-I've not heard before.

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-I can count them on two hands,

-to be honest...

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-..those families

-who have a Pen Caer dialect.

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-So it's almost died out?

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-Yes, it's gone.

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-I feel like an archaeologist

-as I make my way across the fields.

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-Porthsychan and Porth y Gof

-aren't the only moorings.

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-There's another too. Aber Degan.

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-The name has

-all but disappeared from the land.

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-No reference is made to it

-on the current OS map.

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-They tell me Capel Degan

-(Degan Chapel) once stood here.

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-So, who's Degan

-and where's his chapel?

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-The last farm we come to

-before Ireland is Tresinwen.

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-Richard Lewis

-has farmed this land all his life.

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-Where would I find

-the ruins of Capel Degan?

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-If we walk for 200m

-down this path...

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-..turn left down Feudir Syrth

-and down to Porthsychan beach...

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-..we can join

-the Coast Path there...

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-..and walk uphill to the park.

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-The ruins

-can be seen from the headland.

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-Is that in the Pen Caer area?

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-Is that in the Pen Caer area?

-

-Yes, it is.

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-St Degan's Chapel is plain to see...

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-..on a map from 1887.

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-By the time

-the 1948 map replaces it...

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-..all it says is,

-"St Degan's Chapel, site of."

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-By the time

-the current map was created...

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-..there is no reference

-to the chapel at all.

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-In Richard Fenton's 1811 book...

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-..A Historical Tour

-Through Pembrokeshire...

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-..there's a record of a letter

-from 1720 which mentions the ruins.

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-It also mentions

-St Degan's clothes...

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-..belonging to someone

-who had owned them for 40 years.

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-He was given them

-by a woman in her 90s.

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-The scribe, a man called H Gough...

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-..sent a letter to Brown Willis with

-a piece of the clothing enclosed.

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-He mentions that the cassock

-was a yard in length...

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-..with holes for the head and

-two arms and loops on each side...

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-..of blue silk.

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-He finishes by saying...

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-..that this ancient costume was

-recently sold to a foreign tourist.

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-I wonder who that traveller was?

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-I wonder if anything remains

-of the clothes and the chapel?

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-Legend has it

-that Degan was a monk...

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-..who fled from

-the drowning of Cantre'r Gwaelod...

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-..and landed safely here.

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-Here are the ruins of Capel Degan.

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-There's little to see here.

-It's disappeared from the map.

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-But at least

-there's some territorial evidence...

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-..to explain the name, Aber Degan.

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-.

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-I leave the peace of Porthsychan

-and pass the Pen Caer Lighthouse.

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-The light is projected

-over 26 miles out to sea.

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-The structure has dominated

-this small island since 1908.

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-But there's one small problem.

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-Local people tell me that the

-lighthouse is on the wrong island.

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-Current maps claim

-that this is St Michael's Island...

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-..when in fact St Michael's Island

-is the next island along.

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-This is Ynys Onnen (Ash Island).

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-It might've been wrongly recorded

-when the lighthouse was built.

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-Someone somewhere

-thought St Michael's Island...

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-..sounded better than Ash Island.

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-A short distance to the south,

-we approach Pwll Deri.

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-The three sentries guarding

-the coast are called Tri Maen Trai.

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-They are only visible at half-tide,

-so it'd be easy to crash into them.

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-But if you know their name,

-you know to exercise caution.

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-We've circumnavigated Pen Caer

-and before we reach Pwll Deri...

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-..we've reached this small bay

-called Porth Maen Melyn.

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-The meaning of the name is clear.

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-The cliffs

-are overgrown with gorse.

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-In full bloom, this area

-is awash with yellow petals.

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-With such spectacular views...

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-..there's no wonder this

-youth hostel overlooking the sea...

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-..was voted

-Britain's most picturesque hostel.

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-A famous poem about Pwll Deri was

-written by a local, Dewi Emrys...

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-..who was regarded as one of

-his era's brightest preachers...

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-..until he fell on hard times

-and became a tramp.

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-He saw his chance to make money...

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-..by competing

-in the National Eisteddfod.

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-In 1926, he won two competitions,

-including the Crown...

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-..and received 37 prize money...

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-..which was an adequate sum

-for someone in his predicament.

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-But before

-he could spend his winnings...

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-..his wife tracked him down and he

-had to hand over the money to her...

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-..and take his crown

-to a pawnbrokers in Swansea.

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-When he died, in the middle

-of the 20th century...

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-..very few attended his funeral.

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-But his poems remain,

-the most famous of which...

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-..was inspired by the beauty of the

-gorse-covered cliffs of Pwll Deri.

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-He describes the summer...

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-..as an audacious angel, throwing

-his riches over the cliff.

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-Further along from Pwll Crochan and

-we come to Aber Bach and Aber Mawr.

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-The difference in their size

-is obvious.

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-Aber Bach's beach may be small

-but it has a tall tale behind it.

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-At the beginning

-of the 19th century...

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-..a farmer

-from Treseisyllt up on the hill...

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-..came for a stroll along Aber Bach.

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-The tide was out...

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-..and he came across

-a beautiful mermaid.

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-What did he do? He did

-what any sensible person would do.

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-He took her home and put her

-in a tub of saltwater.

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-The mermaid asked to be freed

-but the farmer refused.

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-She pleaded with him

-but still he refused.

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-In the end, she lost her temper

-and cursed the farm.

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-She said no more children

-would be born at the farm.

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-She startled the farmer and he

-dragged her back down to the sea.

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-The curse hung over the farmers

-of Treseisyllt like a black cloud...

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-..until eventually in 1960...

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-..a child was born there.

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-That's what happens when you

-keep a mermaid in your bath!

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-Aber Mawr is a good place to

-collect seaweed to make laverbread.

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-Large quantities were sent

-from here to Swansea Market.

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-But during the winter storms of

-2014, the rocks were washed clean.

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-As a result,

-it will be a poor harvest this year.

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-Four miles south...

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-..is Abercastle

-and Ynys Castell (Castle Island).

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-When the tide is out,

-you can walk to the island.

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-But when the tide comes in...

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-..unless you have a boat,

-you'll be stranded there.

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-You wouldn't want to spend the night

-with the Grave of Samson's Big Toe.

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-In order to discover

-why Samson lost his big toe...

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-..I must follow this path

-through Cwm Badau (Bay of Boats)...

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-..and climb above the beach.

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-During the building of the dolmen,

-the giant injured his foot.

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-He threw his big toe all the way

-to Ynys Castell and built another...

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-..for the burial of his body.

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-If he needed a dolmen just to bury

-his big toe, he must've been huge!

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-Lyn Davies

-is a pillar of the local community.

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-How long

-have you lived in Abercastle, Lyn?

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-I've lived here 80 years.

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-I was born in Trefin but

-moved back here at four days old.

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-Four days old?

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-Four days old?

-

-I've never lived anywhere else.

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-Have you always lived in this house?

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-Have you always lived in this house?

-

-Yes.

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-If I lived here,

-I doubt I'd move either.

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-What was the village like

-during your childhood?

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-All the residents were local people.

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-I remember where every family lived.

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-You were brought up with the sea.

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-Are you from a seafaring family?

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-Yes, we were all

-brought up with the sea.

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-We'd go fishing

-after coming home from work.

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-We did very little else.

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-During the summer months,

-we spent our time boating.

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-Even if it was just for pleasure,

-not necessarily to fish.

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-It was a way

-of wasting time back then.

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-There's no better way

-of wasting time.

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-No.

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-Did your ancestors fish for pleasure

-as well as it being a business?

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-Back then, yes.

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-They'd catch fish here,

-prepare them...

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-..and take them to Fishguard.

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-Wealthy solicitors used to

-live in Fishguard at the time.

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-They had plenty of money.

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-They used to get my grandfather

-drunk so that he'd reduce the price.

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-He'd get so drunk...

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-..they'd pick him up,

-put him in a cart...

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-..get the donkey to face this way

-and send it on its way.

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-He'd make it home and he'd be

-sleeping at the bottom of the cart.

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-The horse brought him home?

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-The horse brought him home?

-

-It was a donkey back then.

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-It's very different nowadays...

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-..but there weren't

-any cars on the road back then.

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-That's a true story.

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-I'm going fishing

-with your brother now.

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-I'm sure

-you'll have a great afternoon.

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-Is he a trustworthy skipper?

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-He should be. He's a man of the sea.

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-Fingers crossed.

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-Vivian Davies

-is a lobster fisherman.

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-He earns a living fishing the waters

-either side of Abercastle.

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-Aren't you giving me waterproofs?

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-Aren't you giving me waterproofs?

-

-No. I don't have a spare set.

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-How far south will you fish?

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-As far as Aber Felin.

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-We can go there, if you like.

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-Vivian fishes for lobster along

-a coast with sweet-sounding names...

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-..such as Trwyn Y Briw, Carreg

-Wylan, Pwll Strodur and Mwntan.

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-He immerses cages that are

-tied together in rows of 10.

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-If he gets a decent-sized lobster

-in all of the 10 cages...

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-..he's one happy man.

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-That's what we like to see.

-It's the right size and everything.

0:21:030:21:07

-What's this region called?

0:21:120:21:14

-Aber Felin.

0:21:150:21:17

-The furthest end of your patch?

0:21:170:21:20

-Yes, that's right.

0:21:200:21:22

-We're just within Pwll Olfa...

0:21:220:21:26

-..Pwll Onn and Witan are over there.

0:21:260:21:28

-Witan?

0:21:280:21:30

-There are also

-some rocks and islands.

0:21:310:21:34

-We call one of the islands

-Trwyn Mari Bowen.

0:21:340:21:37

-Trwyn Mari Bowen

-(Mari Bowen's Nose)?

0:21:380:21:40

-It serves

-as a reference point for us.

0:21:400:21:43

-So that you know

-where to lower your cages?

0:21:430:21:46

-Yes. We can tell where we are

-from the markers on land.

0:21:460:21:51

-We say, "It's in line

-with Mari Bowen's Nose."

0:21:510:21:55

-You know

-where to lower the cages then.

0:21:550:21:59

-How did you

-learn about these names...

0:21:590:22:02

-..and how to fish?

0:22:020:22:04

-We started fishing with Dad

-at nine years of age.

0:22:050:22:08

-He knew all these names...

0:22:090:22:11

-..and passed on his knowledge to me.

0:22:110:22:14

-If he didn't get a bite

-from the lobsters...

0:22:170:22:20

-..he caught rabbits and put them

-in the pots, along with crows.

0:22:200:22:25

-He didn't put crows

-in lobster cages?

0:22:250:22:28

-Yes, that's what he used to do.

0:22:280:22:31

-He'd shoot crows?

0:22:310:22:32

-He'd shoot crows?

-

-Yes, he'd shoot crows.

0:22:320:22:34

-There are plenty of rabbits

-around here too.

0:22:350:22:38

-Did he skin them afterwards?

0:22:380:22:39

-Did he skin them afterwards?

-

-Yes, and chopped them in half...

0:22:390:22:42

-..to use as bait.

0:22:420:22:45

-And the lobsters liked it?

0:22:450:22:47

-We caught much more back then

-than we do now.

0:22:470:22:50

-You have a very nice job,

-I have to say!

0:22:500:22:53

-When the weather's like it is today.

0:22:530:22:56

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:350:23:37

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0:23:370:23:37

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