Porthgain i Solfach Arfordir Cymru


Porthgain i Solfach

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-There's a wondrous charm

-to the Pembrokeshire coast...

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-..and the place names

-along its shores.

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-Furtive imaginations...

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-..have christened every inch

-of this county with colourful names.

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-Our aim is to discover

-the history behind these names...

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-..so that they

-may be recorded for posterity.

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-This week, we're travelling from

-the fishing village of Porthgain...

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-..around Penmaen Dewi

-until we reach Solva...

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-..the other side of the peninsula.

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-Porthgain

-is a popular tourist destination...

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-..on account

-of its astounding beauty.

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-The name

-literally means pretty bay.

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-But it's not usually

-as quiet as this here.

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-Earlier in the series, we visited St

-Brynach's Church in Cwm yr Eglwys...

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-..that had been destroyed in

-a tumultuous storm in October 1859.

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-On the same night,

-a ship called the Carolina...

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-..ran into difficulty in the bay.

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-The captain

-decided to head for Porthgain...

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-..and roared into the dock

-in full sail...

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-..through the mouth

-of this narrow harbour...

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-..hitting, and demolishing,

-the slipway.

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-His ship was also destroyed.

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-But he managed to save the lives

-of the 13 crewmen on board.

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-Still to this day,

-part of the ship's stern...

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-..hangs above the bar

-at the Sloop Inn in Porthgain.

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-As we leave Porthgain...

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-..we pass the remains

-of two quarries.

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-They were referred to locally

-as Caersalem and Jerusalem.

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-This is

-a disused quarry in Abereiddy.

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-When work ceased in 1904...

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-..they broke through the rock

-out to sea...

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-..creating this beautiful seascape.

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-Nobody's sure

-what purpose this tower served...

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-..on the Trwyncastell peninsula.

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-It might have been

-some sort of boardroom...

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-..or somewhere for

-the quarry owners and their wives...

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-..to enjoy a cup of tea.

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-One thing's for sure.

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-It's hard to think

-of a more picturesque spot...

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-..in which to do that.

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-Ramsey Island

-and St David's Cathedral...

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-..are calling me in the distance...

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-..but there's no need to go there

-to marvel at the architecture.

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-Nature is the architect.

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-She has worked diligently

-on this landscape.

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-Hefin Wyn

-is a native of Pembrokeshire.

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-He has chronicled

-his journeys along the coast...

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-..in his travel guide, Pentigili.

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-You know this county

-inside out, Hefin.

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-Yes, I've travelled it 'pentigili' -

-the length and breadth of it.

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-Pentigili is one of the words

-that defines the dialect.

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-I'm sure you've come across

-some interesting characters.

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-The older generation, for certain.

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-They are familiar

-with the legends behind the names.

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-I'm talking about

-fishermen and so on.

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-Civilisation and man's evolution...

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-..is reflected in the coastal names.

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-This is Penmaen Dewi.

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-Also known as

-Octopitarum Promontorium.

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-That doesn't sound like

-a Welsh name, does it?

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-It certainly

-doesn't reflect the dialect.

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-It's a Latin name coined by a Roman

-who lived in Alexandria, Egypt...

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-..during the reign

-of the Roman Empire.

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-His name was Claudius Ptolemy.

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-The term actually means

-the peninsula of the eight dangers.

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-It looks like a dangerous place.

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-Those rocks in the sea

-are the danger spots.

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-I'm not sure

-where the eighth danger is...

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-..but they believed back then

-that the world ended here.

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-It certainly looks dangerous.

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-I was trying to count

-the number of rocks visible.

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-It's dangerous for

-even the most experienced sailors.

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-They must exercise caution. Many

-lives have been lost in these parts.

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-They were first recorded by Miles

-Bishop and the Clerk brothers...

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-..in the 17th's century.

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-Because of that, that

-stretch of sea is referred to...

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-..as the Bishop and Clerks.

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-Nothing to do with St David's?

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-It's tempting to say...

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-..that there's a religious

-connotation with the cathedral...

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-..but no, they're named after

-the first people who recorded them.

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-Another interesting name

-for a rock is Gwahan (Leper).

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-At low tide, the rock is visible,

-and the explanation I was given...

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-..was that

-they would transport lepers...

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-..on a boat to the remote rock...

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-..where they were told

-they could sunbathe.

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-But, of course,

-nobody came to fetch them.

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-When the tide came in,

-they all drowned.

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-You're romanticizing now,

-aren't you?

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-You're getting into it now.

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-You're getting into it now.

-

-I'm quite the romantic.

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-The landscape itself

-hasn't changed over the centuries.

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-You can still walk to places

-in the wilderness...

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-..that are so far removed

-from modern civilisation.

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-It's just you, the sea

-and an abundance of wild flowers.

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-You can feel the waves pounding

-against the craggy rocks...

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-..and a great sense of yearning

-washing over them.

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-You're the one romanticizing now!

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-It's hard not to.

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-Penmaen Dewi is a treasure trove

-for antiquarians.

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-There are circular mounds from the

-Iron Age and a row of sturdy cairns.

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-Carn Trellwyd,

-Carn Perfedd and Carn Llidi.

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-It's possible

-that Carn Llidi means Cairn of Fury.

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-From its summit on a clear day...

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-..it's possible to see

-the Wicklow Mountains in Ireland.

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-This is also the location for the

-world's first hydrophone station.

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-It was built to listen out

-for German submarines during WWI.

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-They heard no submarines...

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-..only schools of mackerel

-returning to the bay.

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-They pointed local fishermen

-in their direction.

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-There are ancient remains

-beneath Penmaen Dewi too.

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-Traeth Mawr (Big Beach)

-and the English, White Sands Bay...

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-..aptly describe the area.

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-This rock signifies the site...

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-..where the altar

-of St Patrick's Church once stood.

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-The church was active

-between the 6th and 10th centuries.

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-The say it is here

-that St Patrick, a Welshman...

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-..sailed to Ireland.

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-Hidden inland from White Sands Bay

-is St David's Cathedral.

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-It was out of sight

-for pillaging Vikings...

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-..who were marauding

-the Pembrokeshire coast.

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-One who officiates

-at his patron saint's church...

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-..is Canon Patrick Thomas.

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-We find ourselves

-in a spectacular cathedral.

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-There's a special ambience here.

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-It's steeped in history...

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-..spanning many centuries.

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-Yes, indeed.

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-David decided to come here

-because he wanted a river nearby.

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-Flowing water was important...

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-..to the Celtic saints.

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-A river and a well were vital.

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-Is it true

-that Hawddnant (pleasant brook)...

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-..was an old name for St David's?

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-Yes, it's the name given

-to one of the streams.

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-It's interesting

-because there's also a Hoddnant...

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-..that is associated with St Teilo,

-who was also linked to David...

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-..as he was one of his followers.

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-It was also known

-as Mynyw in Welsh...

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-..derived from the Latin, Menevia.

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-But this place was originally

-called Glyn Rhosyn (Rose Valley).

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-There's been some disagreement

-over the meaning of the name...

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-..because there are

-no roses anywhere near...

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-..not even in the deans' garden...

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-..where there are all kinds

-of wonderful flowers.

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-According to Lord Bishop Wyn...

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-..'rhosyn' means a small marsh.

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-This is certainly true

-of the land here.

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-This area is a marshland -

-the land is very wet.

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-There's also

-a Porthstinian in the county.

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-Stinian

-was an interesting character.

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-Stinian lived on Ramsey Island.

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-Stinian

-was David's spiritual father.

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-There was a tradition...

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-..emanating from Egypt originally...

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-..whereby a person would turn to

-a holy man or a spiritual father...

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-..for guidance.

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-Porthstinian

-is our next port of call.

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-I hope we'll be safe on the sea.

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-I hope we'll be safe on the sea.

-

-Wonderful.

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-.

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-Porthstinian

-is located opposite Ramsey Island.

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-Malcolm Gray was a lifeboat

-coxswain here for 29 years.

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-Your family has been involved

-with the lifeboat for many years.

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-Yes, my grandfather

-was the first coxswain...

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-..at the station as it stands today.

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-He had the first powered lifeboat.

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-That was a big thing at the time.

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-Yes, indeed.

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-They had to rely

-on manpower before that.

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-They were great oarsmen! You must

-know this stretch of sea very well.

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-Every time we go out to sea...

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-..I make sure I know

-what tide awaits us.

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-If you get to know

-the ebb and flow of the tide...

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-..at different times of day...

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-..you're better informed.

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-This stretch of sea

-is very dangerous.

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-I'm looking at the tide

-washing over the rocks.

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-The rock in the middle

-is called Y Ceffyl (The Horse).

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-Further across on the right...

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-..are The Bitches.

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-..are The Bitches.

-

-Those are famous.

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-Many boats have run aground there.

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-It's beautiful on a day like today.

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-When you come here at night

-and in winter...

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-..and see the waves pounding,

-it's scary.

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-None of the crew

-wants to be called out...

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-..but they're willing to go.

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-The sea isn't the only thing Malcolm

-Gray has a close connection with.

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-His ancestors

-farmed the land on Ramsey Island.

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-We're in the south of the island.

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-Where exactly are we?

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-This is known as Porth Lleuog.

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-If we travel south...

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-..where do we come to next?

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-Over here is Trwyn Mynach Ddu.

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-The cave nearby

-is called Ogof Thomas Williams.

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-Do you know who he was?

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-No, I've never met the man!

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-But the stories we were told...

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-..by Uncle Jenkin

-and people like that...

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-..claim that Thomas Williams

-was a bit of a boy.

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-He used to make...

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-He brewed his own beer.

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-He made home brew!

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-There are small islands here too.

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-The end of the island

-is called Foel Fawr.

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-Next to it is Twll Y Gwyddel

-(Irishman's Hole).

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-Then you come to Ynys Cantwr.

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-Is there a Welsh name

-for The Bitches?

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-They call them The Bitches

-and Whelps, the dog and her puppies.

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-Further north you come to

-Ogof Capel (Chapel Cave).

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-An old chapel once stood there but

-was later washed away by the sea.

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-There are juniper trees

-and other shrubs there...

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-..that were once used

-for medicinal purposes.

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-You can make gin from juniper

-berries! All you need is tonic!

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-The man living in the south

-probably had some!

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-That rock out at sea

-is Bancyn-Ffald.

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-I've never heard that name before.

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-Uncle Jenkin always said...

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-..that 'ffald' meant a place

-where they kept foals.

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-When the rock

-is hidden by the sea...

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-..the foam resembles

-little white horses dancing.

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-They don't stray

-far from the rock. They stay close.

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-The foals

-stayed close to the 'Ffald'.

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-The combination of Welsh

-and English names is strange.

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-There are Welsh names and then

-English ones such as Midland Island.

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-I've always thought that.

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-It's the same with

-the Clerks and Bishops over there.

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-Two are English, two are Welsh.

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-South Bishop, North Bishop,

-Carreg Daufraich, Carreg Rhoson.

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-As we leave Ramsey Island

-for the mainland...

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-..we head for Porth Clais.

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-We pass by a bay whose name

-has disappeared from maps.

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-Twll y Gath (Cat's Hole).

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-We turn into

-the famous harbour...

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-..where something larger than a cat

-landed many moons ago.

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-Professor Sioned Davies is an expert

-on the legends of the Mabinogion.

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-This spot is an important place

-in one of our most famous legends.

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-Yes, according to legend, this is

-where the Twrch Trwyth landed...

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-..in the story of Culhwch ac Olwen.

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-Its name is enough to frighten you.

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-Its name is enough to frighten you.

-

-It was a rampant wild boar.

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-It demolished half of Wales.

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-The story tells of Cilydd and

-Goleuddydd and their son Culhwch.

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-He was christened Culhwch because

-he was born from a sow's stomach.

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-Culhwch's mother dies...

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-..and Cilydd remarries.

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-The stepmother curses Culhwch...

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-..forbidding him

-to marry anyone but Olwen.

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-Olwen

-was Ysbaddaden Bencawr's daughter.

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-He doesn't sound nice either.

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-He's not. As soon as he hears

-her name, he falls in love with her.

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-He doesn't know what to do

-so he goes to King Arthur's court...

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-..to ask for help -

-King Arthur is his cousin.

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-Culhwch arrives at the court

-and discusses it with Arthur.

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-Arthur puts a band of men together

-to search for Olwen and Ysbaddaden.

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-In the end, they find Ysbaddaden

-and he sees Olwen.

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-He says,

-"You may marry my daughter...

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-"..but first

-you must complete 40 tasks."

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-These tasks are impossible.

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-One of them

-involves seizing Rhiannon's birds...

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-..that bring the dead back to life

-and put the living to sleep.

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-Simple tasks, then?

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-Yes. He wanted them

-for the wedding feast.

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-They wouldn't have been much fun!

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-He must then find the scissors...

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-..and comb that are behind

-the Twrch Trwyth's ears.

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-Legend has it

-that the wild boar was once a king.

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-Because of the sins he committed,

-God turned him into a boar.

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-He must've done something terrible

-but we don't know what.

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-Culhwch completes all the tasks.

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-He then hunts the Twrch Trwyth,

-who's believed to be in Ireland.

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-Arthur and his men

-go to Ireland and they find him.

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-The boar escapes,

-swims across the sea...

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-..and lands in Porth Clais

-with his seven piglets.

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-In this very spot.

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-They continue to hunt the boar

-until they come to Aber Hafren...

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-..where they manage

-to seize the scissors and comb.

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-Interestingly,

-they fail to kill the boar...

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-..so he swims out to sea

-towards Cornwall.

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-I'm very fond of the ending...

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-..because it leaves it open

-for The Return of Twrch Trwyth.

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-Twrch Trwyth II!

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-Porth Clais has one more secret.

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-I'm determined to uncover it

-before continuing my journey.

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-Further inland, behind the bridge

-on the current OS map...

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-..there is a reference to a well.

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-But if we compare it

-with this old map from 1887...

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-..it's called Capel y Pistyll.

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-What attracts me

-is the possibility...

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-..of it being

-an important place in our history.

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-It's very wet under foot here.

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-I've had to battle my way through

-nettles that were taller than me.

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-Though I've been stung badly...

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-..I found this boggy area

-and followed the water to this spot.

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-This is Ffynnon Ddewi

-(David's Well).

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-According to some historians...

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-..it was here that

-our patron saint was baptized.

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-I'm not sure if it's true, but after

-the trouble it took to get here...

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-..it'd be nice to think so.

0:20:410:20:43

-Travelling along

-the peninsula towards Solva...

0:20:530:20:57

-..we pass a rock called The Cradle.

0:20:580:21:00

-The name is derived from its shape.

0:21:000:21:03

-But this isn't the only cradle

-associated with the area.

0:21:030:21:07

-There was once a ship

-of the same name.

0:21:070:21:10

-Solva harbour is full

-of pleasure boats nowadays...

0:21:100:21:14

-..but during the Middle Ages, it was

-the coast's commercial centre.

0:21:150:21:19

-It was a bustling port in the 19thC

-with 30 registered merchant ships.

0:21:240:21:30

-It was here that passengers

-boarded The Cradle...

0:21:310:21:34

-..with all their worldly possessions

-and dreams...

0:21:350:21:38

-..and headed to New York.

0:21:380:21:40

-It cost three pounds to sail

-on The Cradle, which was a bargain.

0:21:490:21:53

-If you could ever consider a voyage

-of that nature any kind of bargain!

0:21:540:21:59

-During the 1850s...

0:21:590:22:01

-..losing 10% of passengers

-to illness was commonplace.

0:22:010:22:05

-On some voyages,

-a quarter of the passengers died.

0:22:050:22:09

-There were no beds on The Cradle...

0:22:090:22:11

-..only wooden shelves.

0:22:110:22:13

-Passengers were squeezed together.

0:22:140:22:16

-You also had to bring your own food.

0:22:160:22:19

-But it was impossible to tell...

0:22:190:22:21

-..if you were going to be at sea

-for four weeks or four months.

0:22:210:22:26

-If you travelled on The Cradle,

-starvation was a certainty.

0:22:260:22:30

-Like every other rural area,

-the exodus continues...

0:22:310:22:35

-..as young people go in search of

-work and are replaced by incomers.

0:22:360:22:40

-The relationship between

-the people and the coast changes.

0:22:400:22:45

-There are names at the mouth of the

-River Solva such as Trwyn Caws...

0:22:450:22:49

-..Carreg Dibryder, Y Gwyddelod,

-which are a cluster of rocks.

0:22:500:22:54

-Those names have long disappeared

-from maps and common parlance.

0:22:540:22:59

-And as the nature of industry...

0:22:590:23:01

-..and the composition

-of coastal communities alter...

0:23:010:23:07

-..new names are introduced

-to replace the old ones.

0:23:070:23:10

-But maybe

-that's just how it's always been.

0:23:110:23:14

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:410:23:44

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0:23:440:23:45

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