Traeth Niwgwl i Rhoscrowther Arfordir Cymru


Traeth Niwgwl i Rhoscrowther

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-Just like

-the ebb and flow of the tide...

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-..coastal place names come and go.

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-Some are the legacy of international

-influences throughout the ages...

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-..others are short lived...

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-..like the childhood of those

-who coined the names for fun.

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-They can all be found here.

-This is Pembrokeshire.

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-Today's journey begins in Newgale...

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-..travelling southwards

-past Marloes...

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-..before making our way

-to Milford Haven.

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-One convenient way

-of exploring the coast...

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-..is by using the local bus service.

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-People from all over the world

-use the bus...

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-..to travel through a county

-rich in history, beauty...

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-..and diverse influences.

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-One turn of phrase I heard

-from a lady in Felin Ganol...

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-..an area behind Solva was,

-"Twsh baw san fferian"...

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-..which translates to something

-like, "Whatever, it doesn't matter!"

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-The phrase

-is derived from the French...

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-.."Ne touche pas, ca ne fait rien."

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-Twsh baw san fferian -

-"Don't touch it, it doesn't matter."

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-En route to Newgale beach...

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-..we pass Pointz Castle,

-which also has a French ring to it.

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-Pointz Castle is now but a ruin.

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-There may not be much of it left...

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-..but the surname Pointz,

-or sometimes Pwnsh...

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-..still exists locally.

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-The Welsh have adopted the surname.

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-Pointz Castle

-is known locally as Cas Bwnsh.

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-Cas Bwnsh and twsh baw it is then!

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-The name

-given to a gate-post is a jom...

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-..which is derived

-from the French for leg, la jambe.

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-We shouldn't be surprised

-by the foreign influences.

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-After all,

-every port attracts tourists.

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-Throughout the ages, people have

-preferred to stay rather than leave.

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-Thank you very much. Goodbye.

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-Once we reach Newgale beach,

-we encounter Irish influences.

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-This is St Brides Bay.

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-The name is derived

-from the Irish saint, Bridget.

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-Ffraid is the Welsh form of Bridget.

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-That's why

-the Welsh christened this bay...

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-..Bae Sain Ffraid.

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-The froth from the pounding waves

-washes over Newgale beach.

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-There's a Porth Neigwl

-in Lleyn and on Anglesey...

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-..but its origin is unknown.

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-It could be a combination...

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-..of the Old English, 'niew',

-with an I, meaning new...

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-..and the Norse, 'gale',

-meaning a gorge or a narrow path.

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-Whatever its meaning,

-it certainly doesn't mean new wind.

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-As we leave Newgale and head south,

-we cross an invisible line...

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-..which has divided Pembrokeshire

-linguistically and culturally...

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-..for almost 1,000 years.

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-Castell y Garn

-was built on this boundary...

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-..to protect Flemish people in the

-south from the Welsh in the north.

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-The location is perfect for keeping

-one side away from the other.

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-One thing you notice from looking

-at a map of Pembrokeshire...

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-..is that there are Welsh names

-along the coast as far as Newgale...

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-..and then English names take over.

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-You could draw a line

-straight down the middle.

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-Why is that?

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-We're on the border

-between the Welsh-speaking north...

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-..and the English-speaking south -

-there are two sides to the county.

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-One for the Englishman

-and another for the Welshman.

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-The curse of Babel

-divided the old county.

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-I believe that people

-refer to this line as the landsker.

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-Yes. That names exists to this day.

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-It's relatively new in terms of it

-denoting a linguistic boundary.

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-In a way,

-it's been used and adapted...

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-..to refer to the language boundary.

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-Am I right in thinking

-that landsker is a Norse word?

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-The 'sk' in the middle

-suggests a Scandinavian derivation.

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-But there's no evidence of the word

-in the Scandinavian languages.

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-The word exists in English

-originating from the West Country.

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-I think Pembrokeshire

-has more of an affinity...

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-..with southwest England.

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-It's more likely

-that the word belongs...

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-..to the word 'lansher' there.

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-How did that happen

-in the first place?

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-Back in the Middle Ages,

-there were the Normans...

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-..the English and the Flemish...

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-..who established themselves here.

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-The south of the county

-had fertile agricultural land...

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-..so the south became anglicized...

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-..while the uplands

-and the coast remained Welsh.

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-How much of a boundary was there

-between the two sides?

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-They say some Welsh names crept into

-the English dialect in the south.

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-English names have certainly

-crept into the Welsh-speaking north.

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-People refer to the dialect

-as 'iaith siprys'.

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-Blawd siprys is corn mixed with oats

-and barely used as horse feed.

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-It's a mixed flour...

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-..like a mixed language

-combining Welsh and English.

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-There are odd words like parc

-meaning a field.

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-Shendler meaning chandelier.

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-Many words like that exist...

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-..where a basic English word...

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-..has established itself in

-the everyday language of the north.

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-As we travel southwards, how much

-detective work will be involved...

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-..as we try to find the Welsh

-imprint on some of the place names?

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-There are some archaic Welsh names

-that still exist...

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-..such as Afon Cleddau

-(River Cleddau).

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-Some place names

-and local areas such as Marloes...

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-..which is derived

-from moel (barren) and rhos (heath).

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-Camrose is derived

-from cam (crooked) rhos (heath).

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-We have to explore

-the names that exist today...

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-..and study the elements

-which make up those names.

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-I'll need a magnifying glass.

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-Yes, it's pure detective work.

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-I'll try my best.

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-South of Newgale

-is Druidston beach...

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-..which is far too secluded

-for idle sun worshippers to reach.

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-It'd be easy to think

-the name meant druids' town...

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-..but during the 12th century,

-a man named Alfred Drue...

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-..donated land

-to religious priories in Dyfed.

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-The place

-later became known as Villa Drue.

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-Rather than druids' town,

-it means Mr Drue's town.

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-12 miles west along the peninsula...

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-..past Ticklas Point and

-Huntman's Leap, we reach Marloes.

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-It'd be nice to think the Welsh name

-referred to the expanse of sea.

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-But it's actually derived from

-the old word for peninsula...

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-..meaning bare peninsula.

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-Place names aren't the only evidence

-of this coastline's wondrous past.

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-Sarah Evans is a geologist.

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-Marloes Sands are special to her

-due to their geological formations.

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-It you know what you're looking for,

-fossils can be found here.

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-There are many different formations

-and rocks to see here.

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-As a layman,

-I'm not really sure what they are.

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-How are they formed

-in the first place?

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-We have two bits here.

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-It looks like one piece of stone.

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-If we look inside it

-we can see its shell.

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-The shell dies and falls

-to the bottom of the sea...

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-..on the sand or silt.

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-More sand falls on top of it...

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-..and it's pressed down by lots

-of sediment weighing it down...

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-..until it turns into rock.

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-What's left is the shell.

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-There's an imprint of the shape

-on this side of the rock.

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-That's what we see

-in these examples too.

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-So there are two types of fossil,

-depending on which side you look at?

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-Yes.

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-Yes.

-

-How long ago...

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-..did the creature live in there?

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-This shell

-is about 400 million years old.

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-It hasn't seen the light of day

-for 400 million years.

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-No, not until now.

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-No, not until now.

-

-Were these creatures...

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-..native to this county?

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-No.

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-This shell

-came from the south of the Equator.

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-South of the Equator?

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-Yes, where

-the Great Barrier Reef is today.

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-How did it get here?

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-Something known as

-continental drift occurred.

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-The earth's crust

-is made up of different plates.

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-These plates

-are always moving very slowly.

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-When the continents collided...

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-..they lifted up

-to create something like this...

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-..and the rocks

-we see around us today.

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-We've just opened it up

-and here he is!

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-So as they lifted from the earth...

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-..they created these strange angles

-we can see in the rocks.

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-Others seem to be in clusters.

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-How are they formed?

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-These are called death assemblages.

-There are many different ones.

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-Some are the same type of shell.

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-They would've died at the same time,

-sunk to the bottom...

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-..and the sediments

-would've settled quickly on them.

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-So that's why

-they're called death assemblages.

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-It's like a camera

-capturing a second in history...

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-..when everything was held together.

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-It's quite cool, really.

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-It's quite cool, really.

-

-Yes, it is!

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-Subtitles

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-Our journey along

-the Pembrokeshire coast continues...

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-..as we pass the rather

-threatening sounding Deadman's Bay.

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-Opposite the peninsula

-are three islands out at sea.

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-Two of them are quite close

-and another is seven miles west.

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-These are Skomer,

-Skokholm and Grassholm.

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-It's obvious

-that these aren't Welsh names.

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-They're of Norse origin.

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-Ynys yr Agen

-is the Welsh for Skomer Island.

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-Ynys Y Swnt, Skokholm,

-and Ynys y Gwair, Grassholm.

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-Grassholm is associated

-with one of our greatest legends.

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-Centuries ago, this remote island

-wasn't called Grassholm...

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-..it was called Gwales.

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-Ynys Gwales features

-in one of our most famous legends.

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-That's right, most people

-know the legend of Branwen...

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-..in the Mabinogion.

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-Branwen was the sister

-of the Welsh king, Bendigeidfran.

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-There was much conflict

-between the Welsh and the Irish.

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-The Welsh triumphed...

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-Very good.

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-..but only seven men survived.

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-Branwen and the seven knights...

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-..brought Bendigeidfran's head

-back to Wales.

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-The head was

-all that was left of Bendigeidfran?

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-Welsh legends are odd, aren't they?

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-The head was still alive

-and able to talk.

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-Bendigeidfran asked his knights to

-take him to Ynys Gwales (Grassholm).

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-The island was under a spell.

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-They went to the court

-which had four doors to it.

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-They could live, feast and drink

-to their hearts' content there...

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-..as long as they

-didn't open one of the doors.

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-This one door...

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-..brought all their memories

-and heartache flooding back to them.

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-So they stayed there for 80 years.

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-The seven knights and

-the giant's head, on Ynys Gwales...

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-..eating, drinking and having fun...

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-..until one day Heulyn ap Gwyn...

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-..opened the door to Cornwall.

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-It was like opening

-Pandora's Box, you know?

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-All their memories

-came flooding back.

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-Bendigeidfran died.

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-One of his final wishes was

-that they carry his head to London.

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-According to Lady Charlotte Guest,

-it was to London, England.

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-Not many people know this...

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-..but further up the coast

-on Ramsey Island...

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-..is a hill called

-Carn Llundain (Cairn of London).

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-I know, we've been there.

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-Really? I haven't even been there.

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-I like to think it was there

-that Bendigeidfran was buried...

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-..and not London, England.

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-That's what we'll say.

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-Yes. I'm not going to say otherwise!

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-The Pembrokeshire climate

-combined with the rich red soil...

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-..make it a perfect area

-in which to grow new potatoes.

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-They have been doing so

-for at least three centuries.

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-In 2013, the potatoes

-were awarded PGI status...

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-..which means

-Protected Geographical Indication.

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-It's a very prestigious accolade.

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-Like champagne and Parma ham...

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-..there are rules dictating

-what can be called a potato.

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-You can't call any potato

-a Pembrokeshire new potato...

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-..if it hasn't

-actually been grown in the county.

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-There are strict rules

-relating to buildings too.

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-Dorian Phillips

-restored Philbeach Farm.

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-I hear this building has won awards.

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-Yes, in 2012,

-we were the regional winners...

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-..of the Federation

-of Master Builders' Award.

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-You're the best builder in Wales.

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-You're the best builder in Wales.

-

-I'm not saying that!

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-How much work went into restoring

-this building from a shell?

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-A great deal of work went into it.

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-We restored it

-from a workshop to a home.

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-The restoration work

-took a year and a half to complete.

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-We're within the National Park,

-so you had certain rules to follow.

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-What were the stipulations?

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-What were the stipulations?

-

-We had to use wooden windows.

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-They also had to be single glazing.

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-The guttering had to be metal.

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-The roof had to be

-completely whitewashed...

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-..though there's

-Welsh slate underneath.

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-It's a typical Pembrokeshire roof.

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-Yes.

-They used to call it a cement wash.

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-Nowadays we use lime, the walls too.

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-It looks wonderful.

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-What would've happened

-if you hadn't stuck to the rules?

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-You'd be in hot water then,

-I'm sure.

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-Cadw and the National Parks...

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-..kept a close eye

-on the restoration work.

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-There are so many laws in place

-to safeguard the names of produce...

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-..and preserve old buildings,

-their roofs, chimneys and windows.

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-Why isn't there a law

-to protect names?

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-There are countless examples

-of smallholdings...

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-..whose names have been changed.

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-There's more history

-in a name than anything else.

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-I know that

-the Welsh Place-Name Society...

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-..are putting pressure

-on politicians to legislate...

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-..but up to now,

-though members have been vocal...

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-..nobody's listening.

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-Continuing southwards

-towards the village of Dale...

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-..and we pass Mill Bay.

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-It was here in 1485

-that Henry Tudor landed...

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-..intent on seizing

-the English crown.

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-He kept his soldiers

-hidden from Dale Castle.

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-Within a fortnight, he'd conquered

-Richard III at Bosworth...

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-..and was crowned King Henry VII.

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-It's suggested the name Dale has

-evolved from the surname de Vale.

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-The de Vales were given the estate

-for aiding in the 1066 Conquest.

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-The family's cattle are still

-allowed to graze on Dale Meadow.

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-It's far more likely that the

-meaning of Dale is simply a valley.

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-The landscape

-shelters this entire area.

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-The sea in this beautiful bay

-is beckoning people to the water.

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-As we approach the place

-dubbed Energy Capital UK...

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-..my small boat is dwarfed by

-the ships that pass through here.

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-The Milford Haven Port Authority

-deals with almost a third...

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-..of Britain's

-entire gas and oil trade.

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-Milford Haven literally means the

-fjord's harbour near the sandbank.

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-The Norse influence

-on the name is obvious.

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-Sir William Hamilton

-established it as a town in 1793...

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-..inviting Quakers to emigrate here

-from north America...

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-..with the intention of creating

-a centre for the whale trade.

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-Nowadays

-it's a trade centre for oil.

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-The port deals with 43 million

-tonnes of cargo every year.

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-It's a major-scale operation.

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-What about the origin

-of the Welsh name, Aberdaugleddau?

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-I must leave the port behind me

-to go in search of the answer.

0:20:430:20:47

-I must sail to the east, past

-Neyland and up the River Cleddau...

0:20:470:20:53

-..where the tempo of life

-is much slower.

0:20:530:20:56

-I'm making my way up the River

-Cleddau towards Haverfordwest...

0:21:000:21:06

-..and it feels a world away from

-the hustle and bustle of the port.

0:21:060:21:11

-The landscape has completely changed

-from the urban and commercial...

0:21:120:21:17

-..to these tree-covered hills.

0:21:170:21:20

-There's a certain tranquillity

-about the place.

0:21:200:21:23

-It's beautiful.

0:21:230:21:26

-Though this area is referred to

-as Little England beyond Wales...

0:21:270:21:31

-..there is more Welsh hidden in

-the place names than you'd imagine.

0:21:310:21:36

-This is Langam, which sits

-at the bottom of a deep valley.

0:21:370:21:41

-Its Welsh name is Llangwm,

-meaning the church in the valley.

0:21:410:21:45

-The derivation of the Welsh name,

-Aberdaugleddau...

0:21:520:21:55

-..refers to the mouth

-of the two Rivers Cleddau.

0:21:560:21:59

-I've travelled

-quite a distance with the tide.

0:22:030:22:07

-This is the point

-where the two rivers merge.

0:22:070:22:10

-Cleddau Ddu

-is to the east of here...

0:22:100:22:12

-..and Cleddau Wen

-leads to Haverfordwest.

0:22:130:22:16

-It is the confluence

-of the two Rivers Cleddau.

0:22:160:22:19

-When the main river flows to the sea

-a few miles south of here...

0:22:190:22:24

-..it explains the root of the name,

-aber (estuary), in Aberdaugleddau.

0:22:240:22:29

-On the way back to the sea, we pass

-Rhoscrowther or Rhos-y-crythor...

0:22:330:22:37

-..which, when translated,

-means Fiddler's Heath.

0:22:370:22:40

-This village

-is living proof that money talks.

0:22:410:22:44

-In 1992, an oil company

-offered to buy the village for 2m.

0:22:450:22:48

-Once the houses were bought

-they were demolished.

0:22:490:22:51

-But not everyone

-was willing to sell.

0:22:520:22:54

-Only five houses are left, along

-with a church from the 14th century.

0:22:540:22:59

-It proves that some things,

-including our names...

0:22:590:23:03

-..can live on

-in the face of adversity...

0:23:030:23:06

-..as long as we have the will

-to demand they survive.

0:23:060:23:10

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:390:23:41

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0:23:420:23:42

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