Angle i Amroth Arfordir Cymru


Angle i Amroth

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-The Pembrokeshire coast's beauty

-is breathtaking.

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-It is a land steeped in history and

-has a wealth of nature and folklore.

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-The aim of this series

-is to explore the coast's names...

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-..to unlock this region's history

-and preserve it for posterity.

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-The final episode of the series

-takes us from Angle...

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-..passed St Govan's Head and Tenby,

-towards Amroth...

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-..on the border between

-Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire.

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-This is ancient territory.

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-Its chapels, castles and abbeys...

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-..are testament to centuries of

-both civilization and warfare alike.

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-Abstract reminders of the past...

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-..are the names

-people have coined for places...

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-..that echo a way of life, along

-with some strange linguistic whims.

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-The bay situated at the corner of

-the peninsula is called Angle Bay.

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-Angle simply refers to land

-positioned at an angle.

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-In English,

-you sometimes see a word...

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-..that has lost the N or the A

-at its root, if it follows AN or A.

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-There are records of this region

-being called Nangle...

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-..meaning at an angle.

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-Another example is orange,

-from the Sanskrit naranga.

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-The N is missing,

-leaving 'an orange'.

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-Curiously, in terms of the Welsh

-language, the English word adder...

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-..originated from

-the Old English naedrre...

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-..and has the same derivation

-as 'neidr' in Welsh..

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-But the N

-has disappeared to become an adder.

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-From circumnavigating

-the peninsula...

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-..the first substantial bay

-is Freshwater West...

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-..where the Pembrokeshire

-Beach Food Company is situated...

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-..providing traditional local fare.

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-We're in Freshwater West...

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-..known locally as Fresh West.

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-Fresh East is further up the coast.

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-These types of names are commonplace

-as they denote areas...

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-..where people approaching from

-the sea can collect fresh water.

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-They're collecting seaweed today.

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-They are maintaining Pembrokeshire's

-most famous tradition.

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-Laverbread

-is synonymous with Pembrokeshire.

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-Its main constituent

-is laver seaweed...

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-..which grows in pockets

-in Freshwater West.

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-Have you collected seaweed before?

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-No This is my first time today.

-I've enjoyed it.

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-It surprised me

-how much variety was on offer...

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-..and how healthy it is as a food.

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-People already know

-about the benefits.

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-Laver seaweed

-is full of iron and iodine.

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-Recent research has found that

-it also contains traces of copper...

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-..zinc and selenium too.

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-You'd think, by looking at it,

-that it wouldn't taste very nice.

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-I've tried experimenting

-with the ingredient...

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-..within other recipes.

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-If you want

-to give it to children...

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-..they're not going to eat it

-if they see it.

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-But hide it in mashed potato...

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-..and you can ensure they're getting

-their vitamins and minerals.

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-What have you prepared? We're about

-to have a romantic little picnic!

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-This is a recipe I concocted.

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-I served this when I ran

-the Sara Bara cafe in Tregaron.

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-I was trying to prepare

-a traditionally Welsh recipe...

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-..made with Welsh produce,

-so I added cockles too.

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-It turned out well, so I thought

-you could try some for yourself.

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-Let me try one then.

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-Here we go, Hazel.

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-There's a lot of pressure

-on you now.

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-Ooh, very nice!

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-As we travel southwards...

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-..Norman, Flemish, Viking, English

-as well as Welsh influences...

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-..are a diverse combination.

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-Along this stretch of coastline,

-you will find Crickmail Down...

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-..and Travellan Downs - names

-that are a mix of Welsh and English.

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-This remarkable natural archway...

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-..has only an English name -

-The Green Bridge.

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-Other names are more complicated.

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-Further along are the Elegug Stacks.

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-Two enormous columns of limestone.

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-One stands at 120 feet,

-the other is taller still...

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-..a giant at 150 feet.

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-It's possible that the name...

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-..is a combination

-of Welsh and Norse...

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-..because elegug

-is a local name for the guillemot...

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-..which is

-nowhere to be seen here today.

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-But at least

-it's left its mark on the rock.

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-Further along the path...

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-..and we're greeted by

-this dramatic crevice.

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-It's called Huntsman's Leap,

-Sam Yr Heliwr in Welsh.

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-A huntsman

-leaped across it on horseback...

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-..and when he looked back

-over his shoulder...

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-..and realized his feat...

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-..the sheer shock of it killed him.

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-Of all the stories about coastal

-names being derived from saints...

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-..my favourite by far is St Govan's.

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-Some say he was a thief,

-others say she was a woman.

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-She was called Cofen, the wife

-of one of the Welsh princes.

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-Others say

-he was none other than Gawain...

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-..King Arthur's best friend.

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-Look at that.

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-It's been built into the rock.

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-Yes, that's right.

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-I hope to get closer to the truth

-with Dudley Jones.

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-Look at those.

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-It's a wonderful location.

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-Yes, indeed.

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-This remarkable spot...

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-..is a dwelling

-nestling in the rock itself.

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-Yes, it's very special.

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-I was looking at the map and saw St

-Govan's Head and St Govan's Chapel.

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-Who was Saint Govan?

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-He was an Irishman.

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-He was a monk

-living at Wexford Abbey...

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-..in Ireland.

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-He came here

-and was set upon by pirates.

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-Was he really?

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-Yes. He came into the bay

-and hid in the rock behind us.

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-The cliff opened up and left

-a fissure big enough to hide in.

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-Once the pirates left,

-the cliff opened again.

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-It was a miracle.

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-Yes, it was. Govan stayed in this

-region for the rest of his life.

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-There are legends

-relating to the man as well.

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-Some misdemeanours

-with the bell and so on.

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-The Bell Rock, as it's called...

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-..is that rock that you see

-at the side of the church.

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-The bell, given to St Govan

-by the local people as a gift...

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-..was stolen by the pirates,

-according to the legend.

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-But the angels returned it.

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-Another miracle!

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-Another miracle!

-

-In order to keep it safe...

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-..it was encased in the rock.

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-Do they hold

-religious services here?

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-Yes. A service is held once a year.

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-Weddings also take place here.

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-People claim

-that St Govan's remains...

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-..can still be seen in the rock.

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-Dudley has set me

-a rather strange challenge.

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-So this is where he came, Dudley?

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-Yes, this is where he hid...

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-..when he was set upon

-by pirates from Lundy.

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-These grooves look like ribs.

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-Legend has it

-that they are St Govan's ribs.

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-If you can fit into that groove...

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-..turn around and make a wish...

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-..then your wish will come true.

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-I can't even fit into it.

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-I'm too stuck to turn around!

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-The wish will remain a wish, then!

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-Maybe another day.

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-St Govan

-has one more trick up his sleeve.

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-The steps leading to the chapel

-play tricks with your mind.

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-The number of steps you count always

-varies each time you climb them!

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-How many did you count, Dudley?

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-74 this time.

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-75 on the way down.

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-I counted 77.

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-I counted 77.

-

-Did you?

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-I'm not joking!

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-A little further along the coast...

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-..and we reach the stackpool.

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-The Stack or Stack Rock was the

-old name on the rock in the bay...

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-..though it's referred to

-as Star Rock on maps.

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-Stackpool literally means

-the pool near the stack.

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-The pool is Broadhaven Bay itself.

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-These are a series of man-made lakes

-within the Stackpole Estate.

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-Their official name

-is the Bosherston Lakes...

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-..but they are known locally

-as the lily ponds.

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-It's a prime location in which to

-see the white lily in all its glory.

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-The lakes

-house a diversity of species...

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-..from plants and birds...

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-..to fish and animals.

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-Hundreds of thousands of visitors

-come here each year...

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-..to marvel at the area's

-beauty and tranquillity.

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-.

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-Our journey along Pembrokeshire's

-south coast continues...

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-..as we head towards Barafundle Bay.

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-It's hard to find

-the root of this strange name.

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-Some say it's the name of a ship.

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-Others claim that 'bara'

-is Norse for waves...

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-..and presume that association.

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-Whatever the meaning, this is one of

-the prettiest beaches on the coast.

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-I've just come from Stackpole...

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-..and the lilies of Bosherston.

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-This place is beautiful.

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-Yes, it's very special.

-It's part of the Stackpole Estate.

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-This was the private beach

-of the Cawdor family.

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-Goodness me, it doesn't get

-much better than this.

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-It's a place of exceptional beauty.

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-Years ago, they filmed the advert

-for the Bounty chocolate bar here.

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-I can see why.

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-You're not sure if you should take

-two steps or one step at a time.

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-The estate's owners have left

-their mark on the headland.

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-Yes, they've made it

-a convenient spot to reach.

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-They've also left their mark

-on local names.

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-There's Griffiths Lort's Hole,

-a hole in the rocks over there.

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-Lort's Cave is located

-to the left of the beach.

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-Who were the Lorts?

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-They were the owners of the

-Stackpole Estate before the Cawdors.

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-Lord Cawdor

-became friendly with the Lorts.

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-They were at university together.

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-He married the daughter...

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-..so the Cawdors

-took over the Stackpole Estate.

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-So the two estates came together,

-the Cawdors hailed from Scotland.

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-Am I right in saying

-that their land...

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-..was taken from them

-in later years?

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-Yes, unfortunately

-in the Castlemartin area...

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-..the MoD took over lots of land

-and many families had to move out.

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-The land was prime agricultural

-soil, famed for its new potatoes.

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-Pembs potatoes.

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-The people who lived in these homes

-must still be alive.

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-Yes, the pensioners I care for

-at an old people's home...

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-..remember working on the land.

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-One old lady told me a story

-about a Spitfire crash landing...

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-..in the park behind her house.

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-She was slightly shocked...

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-..but the pilot escaped unscathed.

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-Her family

-had to move out of their home...

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-..and were relocated

-in Trecwn near Fishguard.

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-When these people die,

-their stories die with them.

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-I hope not. The stories have been

-passed down the generations.

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-The son of one of the pensioners

-has kept many old photographs.

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-They keep the stories alive

-so that people will remember them.

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-By relating the stories to you,

-you're keeping them alive!

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-A few miles south...

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-..and we reach Manorbier...

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-..known as Maenorbyr in Welsh.

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-It could be argued that this is the

-birthplace of tourism in Wales...

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-..since it was at this castle in

-1146 that Gerald of Wales was born.

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-The author of Itinerarium Cambriae,

-The Journey Through Wales...

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-..he toured the country

-but was faithful to his birthplace.

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-He said of the region, "This is

-the most beautiful place in Wales."

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-Some claim the name

-is derived from Maenor y Ber...

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-..relating to a battle

-between a knight and a bear...

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-..in which the bear was killed.

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-But there are stranger versions,

-Man or Bear being one of them...

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-..because there was some dispute

-over who won the fight.

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-So the name is derived

-from a question - Man or Bear?

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-But I'd rather believe

-what Gerald of Wales had to say.

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-He claimed there was once a mansion

-belonging to a man named Pyrrhus.

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-The Welsh form, Pyr, explains the

-derivation of Ynys Byr for Caldey...

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-..where a group of monks lead a

-simple life of worship in the abbey.

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-Things haven't always been

-so peaceful on Caldey Island...

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-..because Pyrrhus

-wasn't the most pious of saints.

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-Legend has it

-that he became blind drunk...

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-..fell into a well and died.

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-A successor was found to replace

-him, so Abbot Samson arrived...

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-..to put the place in order.

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-But since the monks were given

-so much freedom by Pyrrhus...

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-..they were totally uncontrollable.

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-He was only here a short time

-before he fled to Brittany.

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-An early reference to Tenby's Welsh

-name appears in Edmyg Dinbych...

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-..a Welsh poem from the 9th century

-in which the poet admires Tenby.

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-The Welsh word 'din' means fort.

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-'Bych' means small,

-so a small fort.

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-If you happen to have

-a small fort near a harbour...

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-..then you have

-'din bych y pysgod' (of the fish)'.

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-During the Civil War, the town

-supported the Parliamentarians...

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-..and thwarted two attempts

-by King Charles I to capture it.

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-In 1648, the Crown eventually

-seized the town for a few weeks...

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-..before later yielding power

-to the Parliamentarians.

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-But the town

-failed to thwart the Black Death.

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-In 1650, half the population died.

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-People stopped coming here to trade,

-bringing the town to its knees.

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-But during the Napoleonic wars...

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-..when it was dangerous

-to holiday in Europe...

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-..wealthy Londoners

-looked for somewhere else to unwind.

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-Tenby became

-the holiday destination of choice.

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-Even to this day,

-the town relies heavily on tourism.

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-Situated three miles away

-is Saundersfoot.

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-The place was known

-as Llanussyllt in the sixth century.

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-The church retains St Issel's name.

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-Walter Elisander

-was a miller in 1330.

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-Elisander became Sander...

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-..and foot refers to the

-bottom of the hill - Saundersfoot.

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-I'm not sure who

-Walter Elisander the miller was...

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-..but I'm sure

-there aren't many millers left.

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-This area has seen

-plenty of industry over the years.

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-Coal was the major industry here.

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-The private coal industry too.

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-Small enterprises?

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-Small enterprises?

-

-Yes, they had nothing to do...

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-..with the National Coal Board,

-the NCB.

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-They were private ventures.

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-Lord Merthyr came here

-and began mining in this area.

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-So the coal

-was transported to Saundersfoot?

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-Yes, it came from

-Bonvilles Court colliery...

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-..where there was once

-a winding house.

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-Trams would come down from there...

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-..cross the harbour...

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-..and load the ships.

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-It must've been good coal.

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-It was the only coal

-Queen Victoria used.

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-It was anthracite coal...

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-..which generated greater heat.

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-She insisted on anthracite coal

-from Saundersfoot.

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-They say that the coal

-could burn even the grate.

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-It actually melted the iron.

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-Are you serious?

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-Are you serious?

-

-That's what I heard.

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-Welsh names

-are in short supply here...

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-..but as we

-head towards Wiseman's Bridge...

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-..Bugeli, derived from the Welsh

-word 'bugail' (shepherd) is nearby.

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-Wiseman's Bridge is named after

-Andrew Wiseman's family...

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-..who owned land here

-in the 14th century.

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-Many famous visitors

-have been here...

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-..some of whom

-were on military duty.

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-It was here in 1943...

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-..under Prime Minister

-Winston Churchill's supervision...

0:20:590:21:03

-..that 100,000 soldiers came

-to practise for the D Day landings.

0:21:040:21:08

-Since the beaches here

-resemble those in northern France...

0:21:160:21:20

-..it was an ideal area

-in which to practise.

0:21:200:21:23

-For years after the exercise...

0:21:320:21:34

-..a letter from the prime minister

-hung on the wall of the pub...

0:21:350:21:38

-..thanking locals

-for their hospitality.

0:21:390:21:42

-I've asked around but nobody knows

-what's happened to that letter.

0:21:420:21:47

-The fate of Churchill's letter...

0:21:490:21:51

-..is only one of the mysteries

-we've encountered...

0:21:520:21:56

-..as we've toured the entire length

-of the Pembrokeshire coast...

0:21:560:22:01

-..from St Dogmaels in the north.

0:22:010:22:03

-As a fitting end to my journey...

0:22:060:22:08

-..in an area where

-mostly all the names are English...

0:22:090:22:13

-..I've reached Amroth,

-an entirely Welsh name...

0:22:140:22:17

-..meaning

-'near a brook called Roath'.

0:22:180:22:21

-I arrived in Pembrokeshire

-several weeks ago...

0:22:300:22:34

-..when the county

-was completely foreign to me.

0:22:340:22:37

-It's been one heck of a journey.

0:22:380:22:40

-The people and the weather

-have been wonderful...

0:22:400:22:44

-..apart from the last hour

-when the sun has given way to rain.

0:22:440:22:48

-We've witnessed the final days of

-seine-haul fishing in the Teifi...

0:22:480:22:53

-..and seen the Welsh language

-under pressure from social change.

0:22:530:22:58

-But we've also witnessed

-people's tenacity and resilience.

0:22:580:23:03

-Even in the most

-unexpected of places...

0:23:030:23:06

-..we've seen the Welsh language

-live on in some names...

0:23:060:23:10

-..and survive

-in the face of adversity.

0:23:100:23:13

-That could be used as a metaphor

-for a greater cause.

0:23:130:23:17

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:530:23:55

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0:23:550:23:56

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