Afon Teifi i Drefdraeth Arfordir Cymru


Afon Teifi i Drefdraeth

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-Water.

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-When we gravitate towards water

-to relax or meditate...

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-..some say that it's an instinct

-to return from whence we originated.

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-For centuries,

-water has carried people...

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-..from all over the world

-to this area.

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-They have all left their mark on the

-remarkable county of Pembrokeshire.

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-Steep cliffs, white sands...

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-..and the black hollows of caves

-staring out to sea towards Ireland.

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-The Pembrokeshire coast

-is undeniably picturesque...

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-..stretching from St Dogmaels,

-past St David's and Milford Haven...

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-..to Amroth in the south.

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-186 miles of natural beauty...

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-..and industry.

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-Irish influences exist...

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-..alongside Norman,

-English and Welsh ones, of course.

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-Place names along the coast are

-testament to all these influences.

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-The best way of reaching

-the shoreline is by travelling...

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-..along the tranquillity

-of the River Teifi.

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-Maps throughout the centuries...

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-..have shown the River Teifi

-dividing two counties.

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-That side is where Ceredigion ends.

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-This side

-is where Pembrokeshire begins.

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-The coracle isn't the only thing

-that's unfamiliar to me.

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-I'm a stranger in Pembrokeshire.

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-I'll have to find my way

-as I go along.

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-I'd better follow the advice

-of Waldo Williams...

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-..the county's great poet,

-and linger by the odd gate...

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-..and listen to the coast calling.

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-The aim of my explorative journey...

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-..is to record place names and

-tales belonging to this coastline...

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-..before they are lost

-in the mists of time.

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-They use the Welsh word iet

-to mean gate here.

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-Feidr is a path,

-and wes means yes.

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-But the Welsh word for river, afon,

-is the same.

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-The Teifi

-stretches for more than 70 miles...

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-..and snakes around Cardigan,

-reaching the sea at St Dogmaels...

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-..and its ancient abbey.

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-In this episode, we'll travel by sea

-from St Dogmaels...

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-..around Cemaes Head until we reach

-Newport, located further south.

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-Before reaching the sea,

-I'm stopping in St Dogmaels...

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-..to search

-for a completely unique map...

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-..that charts the river's journey.

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-Idris Mathias and his wife Beryl

-spent 17 years...

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-..creating a comprehensive map

-of the River Teifi.

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-Dr Dai Thorne joins me

-to analyse the data.

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-It's hard to describe

-what's in front of us...

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-..when you roll it out

-for the first time.

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-It's like a wave

-crashing over your senses.

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-The map in its entirety...

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-..measures 65 feet.

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-Only 12 feet of it

-is in front of us.

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-And it stretches

-from the Teifi estuary...

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-..all the way to Newcastle Emlyn.

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-Really?

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-How did he collate

-all this information?

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-He was a postman

-and would meet people...

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-..along the riverbank on his round.

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-He'd leave them a questionnaire

-and a picture of the river.

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-They would then

-set about naming the pools...

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-..and different parts of the river.

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-As we head upriver, are these

-the names of fishing pools?

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-Some of them are fishing stations.

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-There are remains of a medieval weir

-at the mouth of the river.

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-The sole purpose of the weir

-was to catch fish.

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-It allowed fish to swim upstream,

-and when they returned...

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-..the fish

-would get caught in the weir.

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-But first,

-they had to reach the river.

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-The name of this channel was

-Drws Yr Eog (the Salmon Gateway).

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-This mound of mud,

-gravel and sand...

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-..was incredibly dangerous.

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-Ships would get caught

-on these mudbanks...

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-..and the power of the waves

-would batter the ships.

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-Idris refers to this area as Crafu'r

-Diafol (the Devil's Clawing).

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-Perhaps that was where

-the devil reaped his harvest.

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-It's difficult to locate ourselves

-on the map, isn't it?

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-I think we're at Ceubalfa.

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-Does that word mean a type of ferry?

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-Yes, ceubal means ship...

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-..or a small boat.

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-The ferry

-sails from this precise location.

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-It signifies a river crossing.

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-This brings us to another

-important pool - Pwll Nawpis.

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-Further up from the pool itself...

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-..is Parc y Pis...

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-..which belongs

-to a class of place names...

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-..where the land's produce

-dictates the name's meaning.

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-It also lent its name

-to the pool in the river.

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-There are odd names on the banks

-that don't seem to belong there.

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-Asynod, Ebol and Llo

-- mules, foal and calf.

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-What we have here

-is a very difficult code to break.

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-When fishermen hauled

-an exceptionally good yield...

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-..and the water bailiffs

-were on their tails...

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-..they would hide the fish

-in places along the river.

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-That's what Asynod,

-Ebol and Llo refer to.

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-Really? So they were hiding fish

-from the authorities!

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-This must surely be

-a national treasure.

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-This isn't a map...

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-..but a glossary

-of the River Teifi's treasures.

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-Idris has taken ownership

-of the river...

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-..and the river has taken ownership

-of Idris's 17-year commitment.

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-This village has been described

-on its official website...

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-..as the village with two names.

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-The link between the Welsh

-and English names is complex...

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-..but it's possible

-that both names...

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-..come from

-the personal name Dogfael.

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-St Dogmaels Abbey was founded by

-monks from Tiron, northern France.

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-It's one example

-of the historical attractions...

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-..that draw visitors

-from all over the world.

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-The speciality

-of local fishermen...

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-..is seine-haul fishing,

-a form of fishing...

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-..with its origins firmly rooted

-in the county's history.

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-I've never heard

-about seine-haul fishing before.

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-I now understand

-that it refers to the net.

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-Yes, and the fishing method.

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-French monks introduced it

-when they came to St Dogmaels Abbey.

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-Is it derived from the River Seine?

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-Yes, that's how they fished on

-the Seine and they brought it here.

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-Hundreds of years ago.

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-Almost a thousand years ago by now.

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-How did they divide the river?

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-I know there are different pools,

-some better than others...

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-..but how did they decide

-who was fishing where?

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-They drew lots on a Saturday

-by picking up stones...

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-..for the first tide on the Monday.

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-After every two tides,

-they drew lots again.

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-What was on these stones?

-Did they represent different pools?

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-First, second and third

-fished downstream...

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-..or the third fished

-in Pwll Nawpis, where we are now.

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-The fifth fished further down.

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-Pwll y Castell is the best pool,

-so they fished there alternately.

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-Everybody went there?

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-Everybody went there?

-

-Yes, they all had a turn there.

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-Alan told me that, years ago...

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-..when people holidayed here,

-everyone helped with the nets...

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-..but the rules

-have changed since then.

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-Because my name

-isn't on the licence...

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-..I can't go near the net

-to help the men out.

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-There are also names for the ropes.

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-Yes. That one's called tane.

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-The rope with lead in it

-is called windraff.

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-And the net is called llin.

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-So the mesh is called llin.

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-You said earlier that because

-there's not much fishing...

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-..the river bed is muddier.

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-Only three fishing licences

-are granted...

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-..so the pools

-aren't fished as they should be.

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-So the pools disappear

-and are replaced by mud and so on?

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-Yes.

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-Yes.

-

-So only the pools' names exists?

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-That's right.

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-If seine-haul fishing disappears,

-then so does the vocabulary.

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-Yes. It's on its way out,

-to tell you the truth.

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-If I hadn't met you,

-how many other people...

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-..would know the terminology

-for the nets and so on?

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-Jonathan has been with me

-since he was a young lad.

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-Maybe one or two others.

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-Maybe one or two others.

-

-That's all?

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-We didn't catch any fish, Alan.

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-That's becoming the norm.

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-That's becoming the norm.

-

-Is fishing in decline?

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-Yes, it is.

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-The fishing method

-we used tonight...

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-..follows a tradition

-spanning 1,000 years.

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-How long will the terminology

-and the fishing methods last?

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-How long do you think

-it will continue?

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-It's hard to say

-but its days are numbered.

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-The cost of the licence is so high.

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-Young lads show no interest

-because there's no money in it.

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-So it will die out,

-along with the vocabulary.

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-Yes, they'll all disappear.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

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-Our pursuit of place names along

-the Pembrokeshire coast continues.

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-As we leave the River Teifi,

-over the bar, or Bwlch y Dychryn...

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-..we turn our attention

-to Cemaes Head.

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-As we head south, animal names

-abound around Cemaes Head.

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-I exercise caution as I pass

-Carreg y Deryn, Pen yr Afr...

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-..and especially Carreg Lion.

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-Further south of Cemaes Head,

-halfway to Newport, is Ceibwr Bay.

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-I'm docking here

-to meet a local historian...

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-..who's an active member

-of the Welsh Place-Name Society.

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-This part of the coast

-is very dramatic, isn't it?

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-It's wonderful, isn't it?

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-There's something

-adventurous about it.

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-It plummets into the water.

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-Tell me about these large rocks.

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-These are Cerrig Gwylan.

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-Further down you'll come across

-lovely names like Godir y Bwch...

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-..Carreg Edrywi.

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-There are quarries called Brodan,

-Aberstep, Chwarel Ffeiradon...

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-..Chwarel Pwdwr.

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-What does Godir mean?

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-Godir is a strip of land...

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-..between the agricultural land

-and the cliffs.

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-It's not farmed.

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-Godir y Bwch refers

-to the land where wild goats roamed.

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-It might have been more visible

-to sailors and boatmen from the sea.

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-They'd use them as markers...

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-..along the coastline.

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-Ceibwr isn't a word

-I've heard before.

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-I'm assuming there must have been

-some industry here years ago?

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-Yes, there was a lot of industry

-here at one time.

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-Boats would import lime and culm.

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-Culm was coal dust

-from the collieries.

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-It was sometimes mixed

-with clay and lime.

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-And formed into balls?

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-And formed into balls?

-

-Yes, that's right.

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-Then local men would unload

-the cargo at low tide.

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-They'd then load the carts.

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-They'd then have cwrw lwans,

-as they called it.

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-What was that?

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-Local farmers would brew

-their own beer throughout the year.

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-That would be the workers' reward

-instead of any kind of money.

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-They'd have their cwrw lwans

-and hold a big party in Ceibwr...

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-..before staggering home.

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-If you help us with the coal,

-you'll get some ale!

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-What about the name Ceibwr?

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-Is it associated

-with the river at all?

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-No-one is certain

-of the true meaning of the word.

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-It has been researched...

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-..but no-one

-is 100% sure of its meaning.

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-We do have a problem

-at the moment.

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-I happened to visit

-a website recently...

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-..and someone referred to Ceibwr

-as Pebble Beach.

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-That really angers me.

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-There should be some sort

-of legislation introduced...

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-..to safeguard our heritage.

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-There's a dire need for it.

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-There's a dire need for it.

-

-Names are disappearing.

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-We're going to lose

-something very, very important.

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-The names of animals, fish and birds

-are common along the coast.

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-One creature that left its name on

-a beach south of Ceibwr is the seal.

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-The English name

-has been retained...

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-..because it refers to a police

-operation to capture drug smugglers.

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-During the 1980s, the police

-launched Operation Seal Bay.

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-It all happened in this small bay...

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-..between Carreg Ysbar

-and Carreg Bica.

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-In 1983,

-locals noticed increased activity...

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-..along this remote stretch

-of coastline.

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-They had seen tarpaulins

-and boat engines strewn about.

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-When they asked the strangers

-what they were doing...

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-..they said

-they were filming newborn seals.

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-But locals knew it was

-the wrong time of year for that.

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-When a local policeman came by...

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-..he picked up a stone

-and threw it towards the cliff.

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-A strange noise emerged.

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-Police uncovered a dry storage area

-beneath the beach...

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-..that had obviously been built

-for illegal purposes.

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-A radio discarded by a suspicious

-rambler was also recovered.

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-The police took it

-to the top of the cliff.

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-A few hours later,

-the radio came alive...

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-..on a specific frequency.

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-This is what was heard.

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-"Mother. This is Mother.

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-"I'm ready to come in

-and get the dirt off my hands."

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-A boat laden with drugs

-was ready to come ashore here.

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-That's how the smugglers were caught

-and brought to justice.

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-Sometimes, perhaps it's best

-if some place names did disappear.

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-But the name Seal Bay

-has been retained...

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-..for this stretch

-of remote coastline.

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-Further south, past Carreg Edrywi...

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-..we come to the holiday town

-of Newport, or Trefdraeth...

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-..meaning the town on the beach.

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-Well, half of it is on the beach!

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-The rest

-nestles beneath the Norman castle.

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-It isn't only animals

-that leave their mark on the area.

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-The region is littered

-with dolmens and menhirs...

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-..named after people.

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-Coetan Arthur is a sign

-of a land steeped in history.

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-I'm exploring the town

-and the area along the River Nevern.

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-I'm meeting someone who lives near

-Pentre Ifan, the most famous dolmen.

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-Nevern Church was founded

-by Irish saint Brynach around 550AD.

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-Some 15,000 people

-visit this sacred place each year.

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-Local girl Sara Watkins has a keen

-interest in the area's history.

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-You've brought us to a lovely place.

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-Nevern is one of the most handsome

-churches I've ever been in.

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-Services held here

-at Easter and Christmas...

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-..make this place

-even more beautiful.

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-Ancient ruins can be found

-throughout the county.

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-I've just seen Coetan Arthur.

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-I'd never heard

-the word coetan before.

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-Coetan is another Welsh word

-for a cromlech or dolmen.

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-It's said

-that a giant threw the stone.

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-The name coetan is derived

-from the game of quoits.

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-So a giant threw the stone?

-He must have been quite a giant!

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-Yes, that's right.

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-Are there local names

-linked with ancient tales?

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-I live at Trewern Farm

-two miles away...

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-..and the farm next door

-is called Llystyn.

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-The farm belonged

-to Dafydd ap Gwilym's uncle...

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-..who was called Llywelyn ap Gwilym,

-a constable at Newcastle Emlyn.

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-His court was called Llystyn.

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-Dafydd ap Gwilym

-was a poet, of course...

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-..who wrote about pub brawls

-and so on.

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-In his famous cywydd

-Trafferth Mewn Tafarn...

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-..he writes,

-"Drisais mewn gwely drewsawr".

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-Trisais

-refers to three Englishmen.

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-He also uses the word delff.

0:21:180:21:20

-Some think that the word

-has since disappeared...

0:21:210:21:24

-..and that Dafydd ap Gwilym

-probably made it up.

0:21:240:21:28

-It's a Pembrokeshire word for

-an idiot and is still used today.

0:21:280:21:32

-I wondered why people

-were calling me delff!

0:21:320:21:36

-I wasn't sure

-what they were implying!

0:21:370:21:40

-Did Dafydd ap Gwilym write poetry

-specifically about this area?

0:21:400:21:45

-He mentioned Llystyn in his poetry

-in an elegy to his uncle.

0:21:450:21:49

-"Y llys fraith yn llaesu fry

-a'r Llystyn yn arlloesti."

0:21:500:21:54

-What does that mean?

0:21:550:21:57

-He's describing the

-once-colourful court of Llystyn...

0:21:570:22:01

-..that was starting to decay...

0:22:010:22:04

-..because no-one was living there.

0:22:050:22:07

-I would have associated Dafydd ap

-Gwilym with the Aberystwyth area...

0:22:070:22:13

-..but his lineage

-can be traced to this area.

0:22:130:22:16

-Yes, though he was born

-in Aberystwyth.

0:22:160:22:19

-Dafydd ap Gwilym is associated

-with Penybenglog locally...

0:22:190:22:23

-..and the poet Gwynfardd Dyfed.

0:22:240:22:26

-Genealogical tracts

-in the Peniarth manuscript...

0:22:270:22:30

-..states that he was Dafydd's

-great-great-great-great-grandfather!

0:22:300:22:35

-Does Penybenglog still exist?

0:22:350:22:38

-Only its ruins remain.

0:22:380:22:41

-Dol y Benglog

-and Melin y Benglog also existed...

0:22:410:22:44

-..but those places have disappeared.

0:22:440:22:48

-There's no sign of Penybenglog

-other than its ruins.

0:22:480:22:53

-That perhaps

-serves as a warning from Sara.

0:22:530:22:57

-We must record as much as possible

-of the names and their history...

0:22:580:23:03

-..before it's too late.

0:23:030:23:05

-Dafydd ap Gwilym's local links

-may be fast being forgotten...

0:23:110:23:15

-..but thank goodness

-we have a record of his poetry.

0:23:150:23:19

-One of his famous lines

-translates thus.

0:23:190:23:22

-"O sea bird,

-beautiful upon the tide."

0:23:220:23:24

-A tide very similar to this.

0:23:240:23:26

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:550:23:57

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0:23:580:23:58

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