Trefdraeth i Abergwaun Arfordir Cymru


Trefdraeth i Abergwaun

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-The Irish, Norse, French and English

-have all left their mark...

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-..on place names

-along this incredible coast.

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-Archaic, poetic Welsh names

-have remained...

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-..incorporating legends

-and wider influences.

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-This is the Pembrokeshire coast.

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-This week we're in pursuit

-of place names along the coast...

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-..between Newport and Fishguard,

-a distance of 13 miles.

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-Stepping stones were the main access

-route to Newport from the north...

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-..until the current bridge

-was built in 1891.

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-An earlier bridge was destroyed

-during the Black Death.

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-People believed the plague

-came from North Wales.

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-I'd better be careful!

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-Newport is known locally as Tudraeth

-(Trefdraeth) in Welsh.

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-It translates to

-'town on the beach' in English.

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-The prehistoric hill fort that

-overlooks the town is Carn Ingli...

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-..meaning Angel Mountain...

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-..where Saint Brynach

-came to commune with the angels.

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-I don't know about angels, but

-a multitude of tourists flock here.

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-Llwyd Williams says

-it's easy to tell the difference...

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-..between Trefdraeth children

-and London children.

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-"London children

-look down on the water...

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-"..whereas Trefdraeth children

-look across the water.

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-"It's the difference between

-a land person and a sea person...

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-"..a bus driver

-and a ship's captain."

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-Wynmor Owen

-moved to Pembrokeshire 40 years ago.

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-The beaches mountains and cliffs...

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-..are a constant

-source of inspiration as an artist.

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-It's fair to say that that you hail

-from a seafaring family, Wynmor.

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-Yes, that's true.

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-I was born in Llangrannog

-into a family of sailors.

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-It continues to be...

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-..part of me.

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-That painting

-is of my grandfather's boat.

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-He's leading his two sons...

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-..my uncle, Simon,

-and my father, Daniel.

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-They are both sheltered

-and guided by Ynys Lochtyn...

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-..which looks like a long arm

-extending out to the open sea...

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-..and into the big, wide world.

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-So you've been brought up

-hearing these place names...

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-..echoing around you?

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-Yes.

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-I realized early on in life...

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-..that these names

-had made an impact on me.

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-I like hearing names

-like Trwyn Troi...

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-..Carreg Dol y Fran, Carreg y Ty.

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-Those were the names people used

-to get their bearings.

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-Those names are important to me.

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-Those magnificent names

-have had a major impact on me.

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-They're deep within you.

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-Yes, and once they're in there,

-they continue to inspire you...

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-..and propel you all your life.

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-The names have been expressed

-in a very creative way...

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-..in your works of art.

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-Yes, as an artist and a sculptor...

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-..when I walk along

-the Pembrokeshire Coast Path...

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-..where I've lived for 40 years...

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-..I realize I have a deep

-affinity with coastal place names...

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-..named after birds, boats,

-the sea...

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-..and the Coast Path.

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-All those elements are interwoven

-to make my life very interesting.

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-What does the name

-add to the slate...

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-..and what does the slate

-add to the name?

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-Slate has been

-an important medium for me...

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-..because of the fact

-that this slate from North Wales...

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-..has travelled down the coast...

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-..on ships that perhaps

-my grandfather had sailed on...

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-..to bring back this treasure.

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-When you go down to the shoreline

-just as the day is dawning...

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-..and you see these words

-out in the wild, as it were...

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-..Godir y Bwch,

-Trwyn Llwyd, Llech Dafad...

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-..you can almost put yourself

-in the shoes of those...

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-..who coined the names

-in the first place.

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-Yes, I've spent many an hour...

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-..thinking about those people...

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-..who could study,

-take their time...

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-..contemplate, know

-and feel what they were looking at.

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-My art must also serve

-as a mark of respect for them.

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-When you see it all

-written on the slate...

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-..you come to realize...

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-..just how much

-we have to be proud of.

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-To the west of the main beach,

-past Parrog and Aber Step...

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-..and we arrive at Aber Rhigian.

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-In order to reach Aber Rhigian, you

-must walk though a wooded dale...

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-..called Cwm Rhigian.

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-Rhigian has many meanings - it may

-have derived from hugan (cloak)...

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-..or the Welsh word for a gannet.

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-But the real meaning

-is likely to be a lot less romantic.

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-The stream is called gian.

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-It's likely that Rhigian

-is a combination of rhiw (hill)...

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-..and the personal name Cian,

-meaning Cian's hill.

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-The gravel

-is all the colours of the rainbow.

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-There are stones here

-from all over Pembrokeshire...

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-..as well as some from Scotland

-which were carried in a glacier...

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-..some 15,000 years ago.

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-Like the Irish and the Vikings...

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-..they have left their names

-along the coastline...

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-..but it's a geological legacy

-that the Scots left behind.

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-A mile further along is

-Cwm yr Eglwys and Eglwys Brynach...

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-..or rather its remains.

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-Locals say

-that the stormy sea bares its teeth.

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-In October 1859, those teeth

-gnawed at this small church...

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-..consuming its roof and walls.

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-20 years later,

-the rector was still complaining...

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-..that the cemetery was receding and

-bodies were being swept out to sea.

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-It was a storm like no other.

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-A total of 135 ships

-have sunk off the British Isles.

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-800 people lost their lives.

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-The level of the sea

-rose by four foot in Liverpool.

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-The wind was the most powerful

-it had ever been.

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-On the same night,

-100 miles away from here...

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-..the Royal Charter ran aground

-off the Anglesey coast...

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-..and 450 people drowned.

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-Very little of the ship remains.

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-This wall is the only thing

-that remains of this quaint church.

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-It stands as a memorial...

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-..or testament

-to the sheer power of the sea...

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-..when it bares its teeth.

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-Years ago,

-Wales was divided into hundreds...

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-..meaning

-an area of around 100 homes.

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-Ynys Dinas

-is situated in the Cemais hundred.

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-Richard Fenton

-recorded the traits...

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-..of all Pembrokeshire's hundreds...

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-..in A Historical Tour

-Through Pembrokeshire 200 years ago.

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-Fenton's accounts

-may not all be true...

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-..but he made

-a valuable contribution...

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-..in the way he documents place

-names and his description of locals.

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-He refers to the residents

-of the Cemais hundred...

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-..as kind people, even though

-they weren't very erudite!

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-Fenton isn't the only one

-with a colourful perspective.

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-There are

-many strange tales about the area.

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-The archaic name for Ynys Dinas...

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-..was Ynys Bach Y Llyffan Gawr.

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-There's also another place

-called Tre' Llyffant.

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-Legend has it that a man

-was eaten alive by a knot of toads.

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-George Owen,

-Lord of Cemais centuries ago...

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-..associates this place...

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-..with Tre' Llyffant

-and Ynys Bach Llyffan Gawr.

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-I shan't hang around here too long!

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-.

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-Our pursuit of place names

-along the coast continues...

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-..as we leave

-the quaint pub of Pwll Gwaelod...

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-..and head south towards Abergwaun.

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-On the way

-is Aber (estuary) Bach (small).

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-Although the estuary is small,

-that isn't the meaning of the name.

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-It was originally called

-Aber Gwrach (witch).

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-Nearby

-is a farm called Tre'r Wrach...

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-..and a small stream

-called Afon Gwrach...

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-..marking the border between Dinas

-and our next stop, Fishguard.

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-Abergwaun means the town

-on the mouth of the River Gwaun.

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-Fishguard

-is derived from the Norse...

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-..meaning a yard to keep fish.

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-The town is divided into two areas -

-the new town and the Lower Town...

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-...which developed

-around the harbour.

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-Cwm Abergwaun is commonly

-referred to as Lower Town...

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-..but many years ago, this idyllic

-place was called Capel Llanfihangel.

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-It was also the setting

-for Dylan Thomas's Llareggub...

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-..when Under Milk Wood was

-filmed here, starring Ryan Davies...

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-..Elizabeth Taylor,

-Richard Burton and Peter O'Toole.

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-As if that wasn't enough...

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-..it was the setting

-for the famous whale, Moby Dick...

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-..when a film crew came here

-to shoot Melville's 1955 novel...

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-..featuring film star Gregory Peck.

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-I hope Moby Dick

-doesn't show up today...

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-..as I join two sailors,

-John Harries...

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-..and former headmaster Alun Davies,

-who's passionate about place names.

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-You were brought up in

-these wonderful surroundings, Alun.

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-Yes, it's beautiful,

-especially on a day like today.

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-It's a pity there are

-so many clouds above our heads.

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-You've spent your life

-sailing around these shores.

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-I've heard

-there are pretty names here.

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-Take the coast behind us,

-for example.

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-An archaic name for a slope

-going down to the sea is godir.

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-There's Godir y Golomen,

-Godir Tudur...

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-..Godir Hywel.

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-Godir y Bwch.

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-There's an interesting story

-behind that name.

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-Years ago, people used to live

-very close to the coastline...

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-..in small cottages.

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-They kept goats and sheep

-on these slopes beside the sea.

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-That's the origin of the name,

-Godir y Bwch (Billy Goat's Slope).

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-Have many of the names

-changed or disappeared?

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-Yes.

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-I remember being on the

-parish council back in the 1980s...

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-..when the Ordnance Survey

-pathfinder maps were introduced.

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-I looked at them and I couldn't

-believe what I was reading.

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-Pig Bened in the distance behind us

-was called Bennett's Peak.

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-Lewis Morris

-refers to it as Pig Bened.

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-How does a name like Pig Bened...

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-..end up

-becoming Bennett's Peak on a map?

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-They probably

-met a newcomer to the area...

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-..who had spoken

-to someone locally...

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-..and then translated it literally.

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-I wrote a letter and phoned the OS.

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-They admitted speaking to someone

-and that's how the name came about.

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-Really?

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-Yes.

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-I wrote to them and told them

-what the name used to be...

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-..and that it went back to

-Lewis Morris' time, maybe earlier...

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-..but they

-haven't changed it to this day.

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-It's down as The Bennett.

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-Dozens of names disappear.

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-How do you feel when you

-see these names being changed?

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-Does it anger you?

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-There are no words

-to describe the way I feel.

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-It drives me mad, to be honest.

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-It really does.

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-I've been born and bred

-in this county.

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-It doesn't make a jot

-of difference to incomers...

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-..what our culture is all about...

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-..or what our history

-and our language is all about.

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-All they're concerned about

-is their own little space.

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-How can the situation be resolved?

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-I've come to the conclusion

-that we need legislation.

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-If new maps are being created...

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-..the people responsible

-must ensure...

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-..that they retain the old names...

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-..because there's a story

-behind every name.

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-With so much maritime trade

-in Lower Town...

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-..the shipping industry

-was well supported.

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-The rope making business flourished

-in the 18th century...

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-..and left its mark on place names.

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-A large sailing boat

-would require 20 miles of rope...

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-..and another 20 miles in reserve

-to maintain the rigging.

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-Before the advent of steam engines,

-it was all made by hand.

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-They must've had

-skin like leather years ago.

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-There's no point having rope

-if you can't make a knot in it.

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-There are Welsh names

-for all the knots.

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-This is llinglwm, a reef knot.

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-Cwlwm rhedeg, slip knot.

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-Cwlwm y morwr, sailor's knot.

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-And this is the bowline..

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-..or cwlwm dolen in Welsh.

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-Vocabulary

-is important to Hedydd Hughes...

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-..a local who's led a project

-on Pembrokeshire dialect...

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-..with the language initiative.

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-What was the project's aim?

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-It was to take a fresh look

-at Pembrokeshire's dialect.

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-People have already

-studied the dialect...

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-..and have done great work

-in the past...

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-..but we're living

-in a digital age now...

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-..and it's now possible

-to record new material...

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-..which brings it right up to date.

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-The younger generation aren't using

-the same vocabulary as us...

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-..and our ancestors.

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-It's important to work

-with young people in particular.

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-In terms of

-studying vocabulary and dialect...

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-..what methods did you use?

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-For years I'd been recording

-people's voices on cassettes...

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-..and kept them safe...

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-..but we're implementing

-different methods now.

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-You can record people digitally now

-and share it with others.

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-What do you have

-on these old cassettes?

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-All kinds -

-cymanfaoedd ganu since 1977.

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-My grandmother, auntie and uncle.

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-Radio programmes from the 1980s.

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-It's important

-to make a recent recording...

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-..because they don't last forever.

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-Are there recordings of this area's

-dialect on these cassettes?

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-Yes, on one of them, for example,

-an old neighbour of ours...

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-..explains the meaning

-and derivation of place names...

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-..along the small coast

-of Lower Town.

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-There's Pen Cowrw, Carreg Tomos,

-Carreg Coffin.

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-There's a meaning and a history

-behind all those names.

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-There's another trait...

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-..of naming residents after

-the villages in which they live.

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-There's Cwn Treletert.

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-What's the other? Let me check.

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-Shilgots Trewyddel,

-Bwchod y Dinas...

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-..Gwylanod Pencaer.

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-Inland, people are named after

-birds or animals - Meirch Mathry.

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-Those are

-agricultural names, of course.

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-As for coastal dwellers,

-I'm a Sgadan Abergwaun...

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-..which is a maritime term

-and one of many.

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-In a seaside town such as this,

-there are also foreign influences.

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-Yes, indeed. There's a strange

-street in the town called Hottipass.

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-It comes from the French, haute

-pass, or Y Feudir Uchel in Welsh.

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-Which translates

-to high path in English.

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-Then there's Park y Shut...

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-..which is a narrow street.

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-I think la chute...

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-..means a fall or a drop.

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-There are foreign influences

-on the names...

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-..because Fishguard

-was an important harbour years ago.

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-Fishguard Harbour isn't situated

-in Fishguard but in Goodwick.

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-It's not only ships

-that leave the harbour.

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-Pen Dinas is the setting

-for an annual rowing race...

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-..attracting hundreds of rowers,

-who set off from Goodwick beach.

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-Like Fishguard, it's believed the

-name Goodwick is of Norse origin.

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-The Welsh form, Wdig,

-is derived from Pwll Gwddig...

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-..since the Wddig was the name of

-the river that flowed into the bay.

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-In this instance, at least,

-the Welsh overpowered the Vikings.

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-Despite their enjoyment, I'm sure

-today's rowers are hoping...

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-..that the race

-doesn't overpower them.

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-The boats' design

-emulates the Irish coracle...

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-..that was discovered

-on Ramsey Island in the late 1970s.

0:21:190:21:22

-It's a prime example of

-Pembrokeshire's ties with Ireland.

0:21:230:21:27

-The French invasion of Fishguard

-in 1797 is famous.

0:21:270:21:31

-But in Weun Wdig,

-the Welsh fought against each other.

0:21:330:21:37

-It was here that Trehaearn

-ap Caradog, King of Gwynedd...

0:21:400:21:45

-..fought against Rhys ab Owain,

-King of Deheubarth in 1078.

0:21:450:21:51

-Trehaearn sent his soldiers

-to this exact spot in Pembrokeshire.

0:21:560:22:00

-But Rhys ab Owain wasn't about

-to surrender his territory.

0:22:000:22:04

-He invested his entire wealth

-into the campaign.

0:22:040:22:07

-He met his enemy in Goodwick.

0:22:070:22:10

-But his efforts were in vain.

0:22:100:22:13

-Rhys ab Owain

-had to flee for his life.

0:22:130:22:16

-It's

-an incredibly complicated story...

0:22:170:22:20

-..with Rhys ab Owain's cousin making

-a pact with another Welshman...

0:22:200:22:25

-..to allow an army of Irishmen

-and Danes to land in St David's...

0:22:260:22:31

-..to overpower his compatriot.

0:22:310:22:34

-Thankfully, relations

-between North and South Wales...

0:22:340:22:39

-..are much better nowadays.

0:22:390:22:41

-I'm glad to leave Weun Wdig

-and the site of the bloody battle...

0:22:420:22:46

-..as I look out across the waves.

0:22:460:22:49

-The rowers disappear

-beyond Ynys Bach Llyffan Gawr...

0:22:490:22:53

-..and the ferry

-prepares to set sail.

0:22:530:22:56

-I'm glad vessels are no longer used

-to transport soldiers from Ireland.

0:22:560:23:01

-Nowadays, they are carrying

-peace-loving passengers to Rosslare!

0:23:020:23:07

-I'm reminded

-of one of Pembrokeshire's sayings.

0:23:090:23:12

-Man is like a flowing river -

-always moving, never still.

0:23:130:23:16

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:23:450:23:47

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0:23:470:23:47

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