Ysbyty Ifan, Conwy Caeau Cymru


Ysbyty Ifan, Conwy

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-In this series, we unlock some

-of the secrets of our history...

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-..which are hidden

-in the field names of Wales.

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-It's part of our rich heritage

-which is in danger of disappearing.

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-We must preserve these names.

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-In this programme, we will walk

-the fields of the Ysbyty Ifan area.

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-Centuries ago...

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-..this place was full of pilgrims

-en route to Bardsey Island.

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-I'm on

-a very different pilgrimage...

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-..in search of the roots

-of an eminent American.

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-Welcome to Caeau Cymru.

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-Our journey begins in the

-National Library with Rhian Parry.

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-Rhian, the date on the map is 1847.

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-What does it tell us

-about the area we'll visit today?

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-This is a Tithe Map of Gwerni Howel.

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-It isn't a parish.

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-Gwerni Howel is a district which

-lies in the parish of Ysbyty Ifan...

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-..but it was part of the parish

-of Corwen, which is 12 miles away.

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-It's a strange situation.

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-Is this map unusually small?

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-Is this map unusually small?

-

-Yes, because the area is smaller.

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-We will focus our attention

-on Gwerni Howel Ucha...

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-..or Gwern Hywel Ucha,

-as it's now known.

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-The majority of the farm

-lies below what was the main road.

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-It was a very important road,

-at one time...

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-..which linked Chester, Ruthin

-and Denbigh to Ysbyty Ifan...

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-..and over the Migneint to

-Blaenau Ffestiniog and on to Lleyn.

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-It was a busy road.

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-It was a busy road.

-

-Yes.

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-There are

-some interesting names here.

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-Perthi Gochel Isaf and Uchaf.

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-Perthi Gochel Isaf and Uchaf.

-

-We'll find out more later.

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-Let's move on to this map.

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-This is a map of Cerrigydrudion...

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-..which ends

-on the land of Gwerni Howel.

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-This land was purchased and added

-to the farm to expand its borders.

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-This section of land

-is called Bryn Gwyn...

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-..and it has a fascinating history.

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-We'll go and find out more.

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-Gwern Hywel Ucha is a farm

-on the uplands near Ysbyty Ifan.

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-Eirian Roberts's family has

-farmed this land for generations.

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-Eirian, since when

-have you lived here?

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-I still sleep in the bedroom

-in which I was born.

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-That's brilliant!

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-Yes. It's rare these days.

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-For how many generations

-have you been here?

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-If my grandson takes over,

-he'll be the seventh generation.

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-What does this farm mean to you?

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-What does this farm mean to you?

-

-I was born and raised here.

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-I know its history.

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-My roots are very deep in this land.

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-Your grandson will take over?

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-Your grandson will take over?

-

-Yes, and I'm delighted about that.

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-I'd started to fear

-we'd have to sell the place...

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-..but Gruff has decided

-he wants to be a farmer...

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-..and God has stopped making land!

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-Yes, that was a while ago!

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-It will be lovely

-to see him take over.

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-How important

-is the name of a field to you?

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-Very important, but it's something

-you only realize then you're older.

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-I wonder how Cae Bwa Saethau

-and Perthi Gochel got their names.

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-Do you call the field

-Bwa Saethau - Bow And Arrows?

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-No, I'm afraid not.

-We call it Cae Morgan.

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-Maybe we should revert

-to the old name.

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-It's more romantic than Cae Morgan!

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-It's more romantic than Cae Morgan!

-

-Yes, very much so.

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-Arwel, Eirian's husband,

-is glad of Gruff's help today...

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-..as they prepare to send the flock

-to Cynwyl Elfed for the winter.

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-It's a big day, Arwel.

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-Yes, that's very true.

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-The sheep are going away

-to tack for the winter.

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-They'll be fatter

-when they come back.

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-Yes. They're going to tack

-on lower grazing land.

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-With a bit of luck, they'll be

-much bigger when they return.

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-You're not

-from this area originally.

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-No, but I've lived here

-for 46 years.

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-I come from Pandytudur.

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-I got married and I moved here.

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-The Ysbyty Ifan area has changed

-a lot in the time I've been here.

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-Most of farms now crossbreed sheep,

-which didn't happen years ago.

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-They can't go up to the mountain.

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-Almost every farm in this area

-sold milk in churns years ago.

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-There are only one or two

-dairy farms around here today.

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-You must be happy

-that your grandson will take over.

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-Yes. He's keen on farming

-and I hope he carries on.

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-Field names open the door on

-local history and on Welsh history.

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-Several names

-have caught Rhian's eye.

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-We're now standing in a field

-called Perthi Gochel Isaf.

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-It's a pretty name.

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-Yes, but there are

-few perthi - hedges here.

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-The next field

-is Perthi Gochel Uchaf...

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-..but there are no hedges

-there either.

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-People have come up

-with an explanation...

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-..for the use

-of the word gochel - shelter.

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-Gochel could be an ancient name...

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-..which has links with Dol Gynwal,

-the ancient name for Ysbyty Ifan.

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-Pilgrims may have sheltered here.

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-Pilgrims may have sheltered here.

-

-Possibly.

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-The adjacent field

-has a fascinating name.

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-Yes indeed.

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-We have a lower and upper

-Cae Bwl Saethau.

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-Bwl can mean the centre of a wheel.

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-There is also a similar word which

-means a net around hay or straw...

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-..which was used

-for target practice.

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-There may well be a link

-between that and bows and arrows.

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-People across the ages

-had to practice archery, of course.

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-It was traditional

-and it was a necessary part of life.

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-The pilgrims may have sheltered

-from flying arrows up here!

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-It's a possibility!

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-If we look at our map...

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-..we can see the location

-of Perthi Gochel Uchaf and Isaf.

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-Cae Bwl Saethau Uchaf and Isaf are

-on the other side of the house...

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-..near the road which links

-Ysbyty Ifan and Pentrefoelas.

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-Above the road,

-opposite the house, is Cae Lon Gud.

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-Lon Gud means a path between lands

-with a shared access point...

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-..and it dates back

-to the 19th century.

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-Someone who knows a lot about the

-area is the historian, Edmund Rees.

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-Edmund, this road is remote,

-by today's standards...

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-..but it wasn't always this way.

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-In the Middle Ages,

-a network of important roads...

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-..ran through this area.

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-What you see here was the main road

-from Chester, through Ruthin...

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-..to Lleyn and Eifionydd.

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-It was a vital road for pilgrims

-visiting Bardsey...

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-..where it's believed

-that 20,000 saints are buried.

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-Why would pilgrims choose to walk

-along a mountainous route...

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-..rather than stick to

-less blustery, lower ground?

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-Ancient roads across Wales tended to

-be constructed on high ground.

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-It was an easier option

-rather than to go through valleys...

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-..where forests were thicker

-and the land was wetter.

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-On high ground, you can see bandits

-or any potential threat approaching.

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-This is an ancient road.

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-Yes, it links the main road

-from Chester to Lleyn...

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-..and it services local farms.

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-Up to around 200 years ago...

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-..there were

-around half a dozen farms up here.

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-A pilgrimage to Bardsey Island

-gave you a ticket to Heaven...

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-..but this walk to paradise

-wasn't for the faint-hearted.

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-It was an epic journey

-which was full of hidden dangers.

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-Thieves operated here...

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-..and they battled the elements,

-in the days before Gore-Tex!

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-It was vital for pilgrims to know

-shelter was available on the way.

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-Edmund knows the story of a place

-which offered shelter to pilgrims...

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-..and to some shady characters.

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-Edmund, what's the significance

-of this place?

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-This is Cletwr Bridge, a mile

-from the old hospice in Dol Gynwal.

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-From the fifth century onwards...

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-..the Pope had acknowledge

-that sacred buildings...

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-..had the right of sanctuary.

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-In the Middle Ages

-and the age of the monasteries...

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-..the right of sanctuary

-was extended beyond the church...

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-..to include land

-within a mile of the building.

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-Some of the field names

-in this area...

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-..suggest that

-the right of sanctuary...

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-..stretched as far as this point.

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-Behind us here are two fields

-named Dinas Isa and Dinas Ucha.

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-Here, on Cletwr Bridge,

-we're a mile from Ysbyty Ifan.

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-Outlaws could cross over

-to these lands...

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-..to seek sanctuary from the law

-for 40 days.

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-They then had to leave the country,

-following an agreed route...

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-..never to return, unless they were

-pardoned by the king or the prince.

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-There's an old poem which says

-that men suffered much hardship...

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-..before reaching River Cletwr.

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-Lawbreakers were chased

-as they fled here.

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-Is it less dangerous

-in these parts today?

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-Yes. Ysbyty Ifan is a quiet place.

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-According to Sir John Wynn of Gwydir

-this was a very dangerous place...

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-..in the late 15th century.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

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-We walk the fields

-of Ysbyty Ifan, near Betws-y-coed...

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-..in this programme.

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-The field names give us an insight

-into ancient farming methods...

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-..and into local

-and national history.

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-Looking at the fields above Lon Gud

-on Gwern Hywel Ucha farm...

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-..we see names such as

-Cae Hafod Ddiddig and Cae Rhyd Goch.

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-There are several old ruins

-on the land...

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-..and these field names help us

-archive and preserve them.

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-We're clearly

-looking at some ancient ruins.

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-Does this suggest

-more people once lived here?

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-Yes. There are 18 old ruins

-on Gwern Hywel farm.

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-That proves this upland area

-was heavily populated at some time.

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-The locations for the houses

-must have been sheltered.

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-Yes, and Hafod Ddiddig

-is a good example of that.

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-These are its ruins.

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-Yes, in the field next to us.

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-The wall went through

-the middle of the house.

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-We're standing

-in Snowdonia National Park...

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-..but Hafod Ddiddig

-lies outside the Park.

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-Hafod Ddiddig straddled the parishes

-of Cerrigydrudion and Ysbyty Ifan.

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-The old lady of Hafod Ddiddig lived

-in one parish and slept in another!

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-I wonder if there were

-any advantages to that!

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-Maybe - a set of twins

-were born here!

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-You have records there?

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-Yes, Evan and Margaret Jones

-had twins in 1807.

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-Right here?

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-Right here?

-

-Yes.

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-This is a list of the people

-who were born and raised here?

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-Yes, that's right.

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-The twins were called

-Elin and Margaret Jones.

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-Elizabeth Owen

-was born here in 1767.

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-There was a small community here.

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-Yes, from Plas Iolyn to Giler,

-to Bryn Gwyn, to Hafod Ddiddig...

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-..to Cerrig Gellgwm and Rhyd Goch.

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-Do you know stories

-about people who lived here?

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-There were five houses in Rhyd Goch.

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-The men walked from Rhyd Goch to

-work in the quarry in Ffestiniog.

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-They left at the start of the week

-and stayed in the barracks all week.

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-They then walked home

-at the end of the week.

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-It was one man's job

-to keep the sheep on the mountain.

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-There were no mountain walls then,

-so he had to keep them there.

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-He had a dog

-called Cythraul - demon.

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-Cythraul! What a name!

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-Yes, you can imagine him shouting,

-"Come on, you demon!"

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-Rhian, what names

-have caught your eye?

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-The field over there

-is called Cae Gwarged.

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-Gwarged is an unfamiliar word

-to me.

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-Gwarged means remnants, residue

-or surplus.

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-It refers here to the surplus land

-left over after it was measured.

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-This must have been

-a surplus piece of land.

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-I've never come across it before

-but that's what gwarged means.

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-I like it when we come across

-something that's new to you.

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-It's amazing that this house

-straddled the parish boundary.

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-Yes, and this is another

-unusual feature.

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-If we go back to Medieval times,

-this would be against the law.

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-We tend to think of a boundary

-as a straight line on a map.

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-In reality, it's two parallel lines

-with a strip of land between them.

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-It was made clear in the laws...

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-..that you were not to interfere

-in any way with the land...

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-..which lay between the lines.

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-You had no right to plough it

-or to build a house on it.

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-It was a kind of no-man's-land.

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-Yes, but they broke the rules

-in Hafod Ddiddig.

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-It's a shame

-that these houses have disappeared.

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-Yes, it's terribly sad

-in this case...

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-..to lose a farmstead,

-lose a ruin and lose a name.

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-Every area

-has its colourful characters.

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-One of Ysbyty Ifan's real characters

-was Elis Prys, The Red Doctor.

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-Nia Powell from Bangor University

-knows the story.

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-Who and what was The Red Doctor?

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-He was a colourful character from

-the very colourful 16th century.

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-He was born

-at the turn of the century.

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-His father was a hero at Bosworth...

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-..and as a result, the family

-were given privileges and land.

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-They were certainly

-a wealthy family.

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-They owned excellent grazing land

-for cattle...

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-..which created great riches

-for those living in the uplands.

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-This was reflected in that

-which Elis Prys's family owned.

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-Elis Prys went to Cambridge

-University to study Civil Law...

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-..and he received his doctorate

-in 1535.

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-He must have been a brilliant man...

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-..because he was soon appointed

-a Visitor Of Monasteries In Wales.

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-He would inspect monasteries

-on behalf of Thomas Cromwell...

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-..who wanted to see

-the dissolution of the monasteries.

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-Elis Prys and his fellow Visitors

-inspected the monasteries.

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-Why was he called The Red Doctor?

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-Either because he had red hair,

-but there's no proof of that...

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-..or because he wore the gown

-of his Cambridge doctorate...

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-..which would have featured

-a scarlet cloth stripe.

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-That's probably how he got his name.

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-We're standing by this wall

-for a reason.

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-Yes, because legend has it that

-The Red Doctor rode his horse...

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-..along the top of this wall.

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-No-one knows why he did it.

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-He may have wanted to

-survey his land...

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-..and look towards Caernarfonshire.

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-He may have gazed across the lands

-over which he had authority.

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-He must have had some nerve!

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-It seems clear he was

-a larger than life character.

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-This sort of challenge may have been

-something which appealed to him.

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-I like the sound of The Red Doctor.

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-If he did ride his horse

-on top of that wall...

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-..he was a very brave man

-and a better rider than me.

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-Why would he ride his horse

-on top of the wall?

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-I think he wanted to sit high up

-to look down his nose at the people.

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-The striking, derelict farmhouse

-of Bryn Gwyn...

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-..stands in Cae'r Gadlas -

-Farmyard Field.

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-A very special story

-hides between the walls.

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-Eirian, at first glance this is

-an unremarkable old cottage.

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-That isn't the case.

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-No. This building

-is steeped in history.

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-Abraham Lincoln's great-grandmother

-was born here.

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-Her name was Ellen Morris...

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-..and she joined the Quakers

-in Bala.

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-She walked to Bala from here,

-over the mountain.

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-Bala isn't far from here,

-as the crow flies.

0:21:080:21:11

-She left Bala with the Quakers

-and headed to Liverpool.

0:21:110:21:15

-From there,

-they sailed to Pennsylvania.

0:21:150:21:18

-She met a boy from Bala, whom she

-didn't know before, in Pennsylvania.

0:21:180:21:23

-They got married

-and the rest is history.

0:21:240:21:26

-Do tourists come here to see it?

0:21:280:21:30

-Yes. Many people have been here,

-over the years.

0:21:300:21:34

-People from Pennsylvania

-have read about it...

0:21:370:21:41

-..and they come over here

-to see the house for themselves.

0:21:410:21:46

-Are there any other stories?

0:21:470:21:49

-Yes. Rhys ap Maredudd Fawr

-lived here.

0:21:510:21:54

-Rhys was a standard-bearer

-for Henry Tudor in Bosworth.

0:21:550:21:59

-It's a historic place.

0:22:000:22:02

-Yes. It's really atmospheric.

0:22:030:22:06

-Yes. It's really calm.

0:22:060:22:07

-Yes. It's really calm.

-

-Even on a blustery day.

0:22:070:22:09

-A story which changed the world

-started here.

0:22:150:22:18

-Ellen Morris was born here but she

-went to America with the Quakers.

0:22:190:22:23

-In Pennsylvania, she met Cadwaladr

-Evans from nearby Llandderfel!

0:22:240:22:28

-Would they have met

-had they not moved to America?

0:22:290:22:32

-Three generations later...

0:22:330:22:35

-..her blood ran through the veins

-of President Abraham Lincoln...

0:22:350:22:40

-..the man who worked tirelessly

-to abolish slavery.

0:22:400:22:44

-Rhian, travel and movement

-has been a hidden theme...

0:22:530:22:57

-..in this part of Denbighshire.

0:22:570:22:59

-Yes, that's very true.

0:22:590:23:01

-The roads across the farm and

-on both sides of it are important.

0:23:010:23:07

-They were important to pilgrims

-and to drovers.

0:23:070:23:11

-They're still important, of course.

0:23:130:23:15

-There are some great field names

-on Gwern Hywel Ucha.

0:23:160:23:20

-Yes. They're outstanding, though we

-didn't solve some of the mysteries.

0:23:200:23:25

-They reveal and conceal history

-in equal measure!

0:23:250:23:30

-Many things have struck me

-during my visit to Gwern Hywel Ucha.

0:23:380:23:42

-Perhaps the greatest of those...

0:23:430:23:45

-..is seeing Gruff, the seventh

-generation, working on the farm.

0:23:450:23:50

-The future of the farm,

-its stories and its field names...

0:23:510:23:55

-..are in safe hands

-for years to come.

0:23:550:23:58

-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

0:24:250:24:27

-.

0:24:270:24:28

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