Mentro i'r Mor Hanes Cymru a'r Mor


Mentro i'r Mor

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-VENTURING TO SEA

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-Yes,

-Wales and the sea is our subject.

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-But the story

-doesn't begin in Wales.

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-Growing up on the Mersey, the sea

-was an integral part of our lives.

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-Throughout the year,

-ships from all over the world...

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-..sailed in and out of the docks.

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-I was raised this side of the river,

-in Birkenhead.

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-When I was a girl, the Liverpool

-and Birkenhead docks were bustling.

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-My family was one of thousands

-who flocked here from north Wales...

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-..to work in one of the world's

-busiest ports.

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-We didn't see magnificent ships

-like The Lusitania sailing past.

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-Even so, the famous Cammel Laird

-shipping yard...

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-..employed hundreds of men,

-many of them from Wales.

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-Oil tankers could be seen

-sailing in and out...

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-..from the dozen or more

-working docks.

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-To me, venturing to sea

-was completely natural.

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-The famous Mersey ferry

-enabled me to visit Liverpool.

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-My father was a former ship's

-captain but now worked on dry land.

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-He was responsible for ships

-on both sides of the river.

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-My two brothers and I loved sailing.

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-We were raised with salt water

-in our blood.

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-I swapped the shores of the Mersey

-for the Menai Straits.

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-I can't live far

-from the sight and smell of the sea.

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-We're that sort of family.

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-I'm with David, my eldest

-brother's son, on board Glaslyn.

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-Life on the ocean wave

-is an adventure and a thrill.

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-But to me,

-sailing is almost second nature.

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-The human race has lived on dry land

-for millions of years.

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-But according to scientists,

-life began on the seabed.

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-That's the origin of all species -

-each one of us.

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-It's hardly surprising

-that throughout the centuries...

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-..people have ventured to sea.

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-The history of man and the sea

-is inseparable.

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-Primitive cousins of the human race

-wandered parts of the earth...

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-..for almost two million years.

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-But the geography and people

-of today's Wales...

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-..didn't exist until much later.

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-There is evidence that

-primitive peoples inhabited Wales...

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-..a quarter of a million years ago.

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-It was the earth's Ice Age.

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-Wales was covered with thick ice

-for hundreds of thousands of years.

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-As the ice slowly melted

-12,000 years ago...

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-..the seas rose around Britain.

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-The lowlands between the south Wales

-coast and the west of England...

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-..filled with water,

-creating the Bristol Channel.

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-To the west, water flowed into the

-valleys between Wales and Ireland.

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-There was a massive population boom.

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-Around 8,000 BC, five millennia

-of global warming began.

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-A settled human society

-could thrive in this new climate.

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-They gave up a nomadic lifestyle and

-began to lay down permanent roots...

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-..turning to agriculture

-for sustenance, rather than hunting.

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-These peoples left behind the

-earliest known traces of seamanship.

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-It's necessary to travel to Kent

-in England to see those remains.

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-The boundary between England and

-Wales didn't exist 3,000 years ago.

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-The Early Britons lived here.

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-The name Dover derives from

-the Welsh word for water, 'Dwr'.

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-In September 1992...

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-..while excavating a tunnel under

-a new road leading to the harbour...

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-..a workman found a series

-of wooden rafters in the mud.

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-The rafters were part

-of an ancient boat.

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-The discovery helped us

-understand Bronze Age seamanship.

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-Owain Roberts is an international

-authority on historical ships.

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-He's been studying the boat

-for more than a decade.

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-Initially, I just looked

-at archaeologists' findings.

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-My own research followed...

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-..and I put the pieces together,

-to form an actual boat.

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-We've never worked on such a boat.

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-I can't compare it to another boat.

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-I had to work from scratch.

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-The boat wasn't intact.

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-It was hard to decide

-which new pieces to add...

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-..that complemented

-the original boat.

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-The boat was almost like a jigsaw,

-with some pieces missing.

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-To fill the gaps...

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-..Owain Roberts turned

-to basic seamanship principles.

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-What was needed to turn the pile

-of rafters into an actual boat?

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-After puzzling for months, Owain

-Roberts published his final plans.

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-He was certain that this was

-the original shape of the boat.

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-Many experts claim it was built

-to work on the Dover river.

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-But as Owain Roberts'

-plan took shape...

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-..he became convinced that the boat

-had sailed the oceans and seas.

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-They found pottery from Dorset

-alongside the boat.

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-This proves she sailed

-the English channel.

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-The remains of a cod

-were still attached to her hull.

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-She'd therefore been a fishing boat.

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-Within a stone's throw of Dover...

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-..another archaeological site

-confirmed Owain Roberts' theory.

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-Divers found bronze pieces

-from a shipwreck...

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-..no boat, just these.

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-From chemical tests,

-we know the metal came from France.

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-Some sort of commerce was ongoing

-between France and Britain.

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-That told us it was obviously

-a Bronze Age boat...

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-..sailing along the coastline

-and crossing to France.

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-The Dover boat

-is one of the world's oldest.

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-There was a great deal of interest

-in Owain Roberts' plans.

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-To prove the plans were practical...

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-..shipbuilders reconstructed

-the original boat.

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-They used the same

-techniques and equipment...

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-..that were available

-in the Bronze Age.

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-The results can be viewed in

-the exhibition of the original boat.

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-This is a model of a section

-of the boat.

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-It demonstrates how

-it was pieced together.

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-There are four pieces of wood.

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-Two big sections down the middle.

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-The sides were carved out

-of a quarter of a tree trunk.

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-We believe another plank was above

-it, but that plank hasn't appeared.

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-The wood from which it was carved

-was substantial.

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-These blocks are this thick.

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-They started

-with a piece of oak this wide.

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-There's been an incredible amount

-of carving here.

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-The stitches tie

-both sides together.

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-They were threaded

-through the holes.

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-The hole below has been made

-to prevent the stitch...

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-..from being damaged on the beach.

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-The pressed wax seals the water,

-as much as possible.

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-A different method was used down the

-middle. There are no stitches here.

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-They've put small planks of wood

-across.

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-Others were positioned

-at an opposite angle.

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-They firmly secure

-the two parts of the boat.

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-It's a very interesting trick.

-I haven't seen it anywhere else.

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-They were a sophisticated crew.

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-They were a sophisticated crew.

-

-Very sophisticated.

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-They worked directly from

-a piece of wood to create a shape...

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-..without using plans.

-That's more than we can do today!

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-The only comparable work

-is the craft of a sculptor...

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-..carving straight

-into the material.

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-What was the lifespan of the boat?

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-How long would the stitches last?

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-The continuous motion

-wore the stitches down.

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-Eventually, they'd disintegrate.

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-Once a year, they probably

-pulled her ashore, and re-stitched.

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-Ships are repainted every winter

-today.

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-It's the same idea.

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-The Dover boat is the best evidence

-we have to prove...

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-..that Bronze Age people

-crossed the seas.

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-But there are other reasons

-to believe...

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-..that our primitive forefathers

-were enthusiastic sailors.

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-All along the west coast of Wales...

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-..dozens of megalithic tombs

-have been discovered.

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-They're amongst the world's

-oldest permanent buildings.

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-They were built

-as community centres.

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-Places to meet, hold rituals,

-and bury the dead.

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-The significance

-of some megalithic tombs...

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-..is that they suggest Wales

-had an indigenous seafaring culture.

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-There is a similarity between

-the layout of some Welsh tombs...

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-..and their Irish counterparts.

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-Although no hard evidence

-has survived...

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-..it's more than likely that early

-residents of Wales and Dover...

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-..travelled back and forth

-across the sea.

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-It's fair to conclude

-that the huge ships...

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-..that sail between Ireland

-and Europe through Welsh ports...

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-..are part of a sailing tradition

-dating back thousands of years.

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-888

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-Megalithic tombs are dotted

-around the West Wales coastline.

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-Their presence suggests

-that the early Welsh...

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-..who lived here in 8,000 BC,

-were familiar with the sea.

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-Unlike Dover, a boat from that era

-has yet to be discovered in Wales.

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-To understand more

-about Welsh seafaring...

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-..we have to look

-for other evidence.

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-As the locations

-of the tombs demonstrate...

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-..most of the population

-lived in west Wales.

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-Towards the east, the mountainous

-terrain was hard to cross.

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-The roads were primitive.

-Wheeled-transport was very rare.

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-Furthermore, most of Wales

-was covered in forests.

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-It was quite a feat to travel

-anywhere overland.

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-The prospect of transporting goods

-overland was even more daunting.

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-If it was hard

-to cross land on foot...

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-..it was almost impossible

-with a heavy load.

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-But the open sea was to the west.

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-Despite the dangers

-associated with sailing...

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-..it was easier and more practical

-than overland.

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-This period in our history

-is known as the Bronze Age.

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-Rather than depending

-on stone weapons...

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-..the people learnt

-how to use metals.

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-To understand the relationship

-of the early Welsh and the sea...

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-..we must follow the development

-of these new metals.

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-An ideal place for this

-is the Great Orme, Llandudno.

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-Ken Brassil took me there.

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-He's an archaeologist

-who works for the National Museum.

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-Ken specialises

-in the prehistoric era.

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-He's very familiar with the site.

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-Below us here, there are almost

-5 kilometres of tunnels...

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-..reaching a depth of 100 metres

-under the Orme.

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-This is the world's biggest

-prehistoric underground copper mine.

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-They began to use metals in

-the British Isles around 2,000 BC.

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-The mined copper was mixed

-with Cornish tin to create bronze.

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-This new bronze metal was used...

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-..to make axes, swords and so on.

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-The mine at the Great Orme

-is a tourist attraction nowadays.

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-But 4,000 years ago, it would

-have been a hive of activity.

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-Because of the unique geology...

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-..it was easy to use pieces

-of animal bone to mine the copper.

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-The mining resulted

-in the presence of miles of tunnels.

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-Most are so narrow, children

-must have carried out the work.

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-It would be very difficult

-to get any candlelight here...

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-..because of the lack of oxygen

-in the tunnels.

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-Most of the work

-was carried out in darkness.

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-Because this is

-the north Wales coast...

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-..the sea must have played a part,

-moving the copper and tin...

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-..and moving equipment

-from community to community.

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-The sea also provided the means...

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-..to share and spread

-technological information...

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-..such as mixing copper and tin.

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-There is no direct evidence of

-Bronze Age seamanship in Llandudno.

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-But discoveries

-in other parts of north Wales...

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-..prove the existence

-of an exporting industry here.

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-There are examples of shipwrecks.

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-Unfortunately, the boats

-themselves remain undiscovered.

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-But their contents were found

-off the Pembrokeshire coastline.

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-Archaeologists have found

-a number of Bronze Age swords.

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-Their sheer numbers suggest

-they're the remains of a shipwreck.

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-We believe bronze was exported

-to the continent, even to France.

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-During the Bronze Age, importing

-and exporting took place...

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-..between the British Isles

-and the rest of Europe.

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-The Great Orme copper mines can

-be compared to the megalithic tombs.

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-Seafaring skills were crucial

-to the existence of both.

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-But on their own,

-they're not proof of seamanship.

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-Lawyers would describe it as

-'circumstantial evidence'.

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-But yet,

-a short distance up the coast...

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-..a site proves beyond doubt that

-early sailors lived in the area.

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-Caergwrle, east of Llandudno,

-is in the Wrexham area.

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-The ruins of Prince Dafydd

-ap Gruffydd's castle are here.

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-He was the brother

-of Llywelyn, Last Prince of Wales.

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-On the hill, there are remains

-of a prehistoric settlement.

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-Although there is a fair distance

-between the village and sea...

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-..an historical discovery of early

-Welsh seamanship was made here.

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-In 1823, a farmhand made a valuable

-discovery whilst opening a ditch.

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-It is now

-in the National Museum of Wales.

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-When the treasure first surfaced...

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-..Victorian archaeologists

-were convinced...

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-..they'd found

-an intricately crafted bowl.

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-We're certain today

-that it isn't a bowl.

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-It's a model of a boat

-made out of special stone - shale.

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-The oars and waves

-are made out of thin gold.

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-There are circular shields

-on the side of the boat.

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-The eyes seem to be looking

-for stones underwater.

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-The detail suggests

-this is something unique.

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-Almost as important as

-the boat design is its manufacture.

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-We reckon the gold comes

-from Ireland.

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-The gold has been embossed into

-the decoration on the shale stone...

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-..with tin.

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-Tin was only found

-in Cornwall at this time.

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-This is of Welsh and international

-significance.

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-There's a tradition

-dating back centuries...

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-..of burying valuable items

-in wet earth.

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-They were thrown into lakes,

-rivers, wells, or even gorse land.

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-Why would people throw away

-their treasures?

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-One theory is that gold merchants,

-crossing from Ireland...

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-..had collected the gold

-from Wicklow mountain streams...

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-..south of Dublin.

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-They sailed to Anglesey

-and crossed the Menai Straits...

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-..and eventually sailed

-along the coastline.

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-They passed us here in Caergwrle.

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-Perhaps there was

-a major incident...

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-..as the merchants

-passed a certain place.

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-They had to keep

-the local goddess happy.

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-All they could do was present their

-treasure to appease their goddess.

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-That's just a theory.

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-In the prehistoric era,

-nothing was recorded.

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-In prehistoric times, people worried

-about keeping their gods happy.

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-The day was fast approaching when

-the peoples of the British Isles...

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-..would have to bow

-before men of flesh and blood.

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-A powerful race -

-who came, who saw and who conquered.

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-888

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-Commerce uses boats

-for peaceful means.

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-It was mainly responsible for the

-growth of early seamanship in Wales.

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-Transporting goods

-was the role of most boats.

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-This continued for many years.

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-About 2,000 years ago...

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-..a new civilization

-arrived on these islands.

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-But the Romans used the sea

-for less peaceful goals.

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-The Romans first landed

-on the southern shores of England.

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-Their leader was Julius Caesar,

-in the year 55 BC.

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-There was no attempt to conquer the

-British Isles for another century...

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-..until the year 43 AD.

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-The Roman fleet was awesome.

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-According to some historians,

-a comparable fleet...

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-..would not sail the seas of Europe

-for another 2,000 years.

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-Twenty thousand men landed

-in the south of England...

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-..conquering

-the natives effortlessly.

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-The Britons' boats weren't a match

-for the sophisticated Roman fleet.

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-Emperor Claudius

-brought elephants with him...

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-..when he arrived in Britain...

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-..to witness the natives

-submitting to his power.

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-The Roman grip soon tightened in

-every corner of Wales and England.

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-Although the armies

-normally went overland...

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-..the sea was a crucial part

-of their strategy...

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-..in conquering and ruling

-their new territory.

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-Traces of the Roman invasion

-can be seen in Wales today.

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-There's an old Roman fort

-to the north of Holyhead harbour.

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-According to historian

-John Ellis Jones...

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-..it's a perfect example of how

-the new invaders used the sea...

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-..to wage war.

0:26:420:26:43

-As you can see,

-the walls are very high.

0:26:440:26:47

-They've survived since the

-fourth century in good condition.

0:26:480:26:53

-There's an interesting pattern.

0:26:550:26:56

-There's an interesting pattern.

-

-Very interesting.

0:26:560:26:58

-There's an interesting pattern.

0:26:580:26:58

-It's quite a common stone.

0:26:590:27:02

-Some have been positioned

-horizontally...

0:27:020:27:06

-..and others have been placed

-to create a herringbone pattern.

0:27:060:27:11

-This is typical

-of the late Roman era...

0:27:110:27:17

-..3rd, 4th and 5th centuries AD.

0:27:190:27:21

-This is how we can date the fort.

0:27:220:27:26

-The fort was designed

-to maximise its location.

0:27:350:27:39

-More than likely,

-although the fort is here...

0:27:410:27:45

-..the walls in front of us

-and behind us...

0:27:450:27:49

-..stretched outwards,

-like arms, towards the sea.

0:27:500:27:53

-The boats sailed

-directly into the fort.

0:27:540:27:56

-Within these walls...

0:27:570:28:01

-..they were in a safe haven.

0:28:010:28:04

-The author Vegetius provides

-a fascinating description.

0:28:060:28:12

-He explains how the Romans

-utilized small fleets...

0:28:140:28:20

-..not one large fleet...

0:28:210:28:23

-..and they had boats

-called liburnae.

0:28:230:28:26

-These were fast boats.

0:28:270:28:29

-Today's equivalent

-are destroyers or patrol vessels.

0:28:300:28:35

-The Roman world was a dangerous one.

0:28:380:28:41

-Officially, they governed...

0:28:410:28:43

-..but their settlement

-was always under threat.

0:28:430:28:46

-The small fleets

-defended the settlement.

0:28:500:28:54

-They warned the soldiers

-of an approaching enemy.

0:28:550:28:59

-There was uncertainty how

-this was achieved in Holyhead...

0:29:020:29:05

-..until archaeologists

-excavated on Holyhead Mountain.

0:29:060:29:11

-A few years ago, the ruins

-of a Roman tower were found.

0:29:130:29:17

-From the tower, they had

-a brilliant view towards Ireland.

0:29:180:29:23

-They could send smoke signals...

0:29:240:29:27

-..or light fires...

0:29:280:29:31

-..or use a semaphore system

-of signalling.

0:29:310:29:38

-That's how the garrison was warned

-of an approaching enemy.

0:29:390:29:44

-Despite the Romans' sophisticated

-warning system...

0:29:490:29:52

-..they weren't always successful.

0:29:530:29:55

-There was no certainty

-invaders could be intercepted...

0:29:560:29:59

-..before they raped,

-plundered and murdered.

0:30:000:30:04

-But you were aware

-invaders had landed...

0:30:050:30:10

-..and sailors alerted

-the Roman fleet of their presence.

0:30:100:30:14

-Anglesey was a small corner

-of the Roman Empire.

0:30:180:30:22

-The history books

-are written by the victors.

0:30:220:30:26

-What we know about Wales and the sea

-during the Roman age...

0:30:290:30:33

-..is the Roman version of history.

0:30:330:30:36

-That's the only version we have.

0:30:370:30:44

-It gives us an idea

-of how they treated the sea.

0:30:440:30:49

-We have a picture,

-but it's a rather Roman picture.

0:30:490:30:53

-There are no Welsh versions

-from that time.

0:30:530:30:59

-Like the Welsh,

-the Romans realised...

0:31:050:31:08

-..that sailing was easier

-than travelling overland.

0:31:080:31:11

-Whilst the Welsh used

-this knowledge for peaceful ends...

0:31:160:31:20

-..the Romans used the sea...

0:31:200:31:22

-..to tighten their grip

-on their conquered lands.

0:31:220:31:26

-That tactic was a key reason

-for their success in Britain.

0:31:270:31:30

-After the Romans left, Wales was

-attacked on numerous occasions.

0:31:350:31:38

-The Vikings were a particular threat

-along the coastline.

0:31:390:31:43

-Anglicised Welsh place names

-with Viking roots...

0:31:430:31:47

-..are found in a number

-of places along the coast.

0:31:470:31:50

-Abertawe became Swan Sea,

-or Swains Isle...

0:31:520:31:55

-..to pay homage

-to King Swain Fork-Beard.

0:31:560:31:59

-In the same way, Mona, or Ynys Mon,

-became Anglesey.

0:32:000:32:04

-But unlike the Romans,

-not a single Viking fort survived.

0:32:100:32:15

-There are no ruins to match

-those left by the next invaders...

0:32:150:32:20

-..the Normans.

0:32:210:32:22

-The Norman fort at Pembroke

-is in an area known as...

0:32:270:32:31

-..'little England beyond Wales.'

0:32:320:32:34

-Historian Nia Powell

-traces the Normans' lineage.

0:32:360:32:40

-It's interesting that

-their forefathers were Vikings.

0:32:410:32:45

-Vikings emigrated from the north,

-and settled in northern France.

0:32:460:32:52

-They formed

-a dominion and territory there.

0:32:530:32:56

-The old Viking seafaring tradition

-was adopted by the Normans.

0:32:560:33:03

-When they came from Normandy

-to attack Harold in Hastings...

0:33:050:33:11

-..they came in ships,

-along with their war horses.

0:33:120:33:16

-The Bayeux Tapestry

-has fascinating pictures of ships.

0:33:170:33:22

-There are rows of shields

-along the sides.

0:33:220:33:25

-This is similar

-to the Viking longboats.

0:33:250:33:29

-After defeating Harold

-in the Battle of Hastings...

0:33:310:33:34

-..the Normans settled

-in south east England.

0:33:340:33:37

-They began

-their westerly campaign...

0:33:370:33:40

-..at a time

-when Wales was a divided country.

0:33:410:33:44

-Although a number of Welsh

-Princedoms fell relatively easily...

0:33:470:33:50

-..many held onto their lands.

0:33:510:33:54

-The sea and mountains helped them.

0:33:540:33:57

-The relationship

-between Wales and the sea...

0:33:580:34:02

-..was strengthened

-by the Irish connection.

0:34:030:34:05

-Irish sea crossings

-happened regularly.

0:34:060:34:09

-Rhys ap Tewdwr,

-King of South Wales...

0:34:090:34:14

-..and Gruffydd ap Cynan,

-King of Gwynedd...

0:34:140:34:17

-..had lived in Ireland.

0:34:180:34:20

-They returned from Ireland

-to claim their territory...

0:34:210:34:25

-..before the battle of Carn Mountain

-in 1081.

0:34:250:34:28

-Gruffydd ap Cynan

-was probably born in Dublin.

0:34:300:34:34

-His father was exiled to Ireland.

0:34:340:34:37

-He married the daughter of Dublin's

-Danish King - a Viking, therefore.

0:34:380:34:43

-There was Viking blood

-in Gruffydd ap Cynan.

0:34:430:34:46

-I think the relationship between

-the Kings of Wales...

0:34:480:34:53

-..the sea and Ireland...

0:34:540:34:56

-..explains how they could keep

-the west in Welsh hands.

0:34:560:35:01

-The Princes of the west held onto

-their independent lands...

0:35:040:35:08

-..for 250 years.

0:35:080:35:10

-The Age of the Princes ended

-at the end of the 13th century.

0:35:110:35:15

-To ensure the continuation

-of the new order...

0:35:160:35:19

-..Edward I built a series of castles

-along the Welsh coastline.

0:35:190:35:24

-The castles defended

-coastal towns from sea strikes.

0:35:250:35:30

-The sea was a defence

-against overland attacks.

0:35:300:35:34

-Pembroke Castle

-is a perfect example.

0:35:380:35:41

-This is one of the few

-Norman castles to resist attack.

0:35:420:35:47

-It was a Norman stronghold.

0:35:470:35:53

-They had access to supplies

-from the sea.

0:35:540:35:58

-There's a little dock

-under the tower.

0:36:000:36:04

-Ships up to 50 tonnes, no more,

-could sail in from the sea.

0:36:050:36:10

-Not all the Norman castles

-are by the seaside.

0:36:120:36:16

-But having said that,

-a number of the surviving castles...

0:36:180:36:24

-..are on the coast.

0:36:240:36:28

-Today, to many Welshmen...

0:36:320:36:34

-..the castles built by English kings

-are a symbol of oppression.

0:36:350:36:39

-But to many

-who lived in their shadows...

0:36:410:36:43

-..the castles, towns and harbours

-that grew around them...

0:36:440:36:47

-..offered up new opportunities.

0:36:480:36:50

-But throughout history, the picture

-isn't completely black and white.

0:36:520:36:56

-The Normans and the English

-were cruel masters.

0:36:580:37:02

-But like the Romans, they were

-teachers as well as governors.

0:37:040:37:08

-The invaders' influence

-on our seafaring culture continues.

0:37:100:37:14

-Over the centuries,

-they built harbours.

0:37:140:37:17

-The harbours are still with us,

-but they're now used by the Welsh.

0:37:170:37:22

-888

0:37:310:37:33

-We've tried to understand

-why people ventured to sea...

0:37:410:37:44

-..through looking at objects -

-boats, tombs and castles.

0:37:450:37:50

-It's futile

-to look for written evidence.

0:37:510:37:53

-Dependable written history

-doesn't appear until much later.

0:37:550:37:59

-But there is one more source.

0:38:000:38:02

-When the human race

-mastered language...

0:38:030:38:06

-..we told tales to one another.

0:38:060:38:09

-The most famous Welsh legends

-are The Mabinogion.

0:38:190:38:22

-They were formally recorded

-in the 13th century.

0:38:230:38:26

-But they were repeated orally

-many years before that.

0:38:260:38:30

-Through being repeated

-over the generations...

0:38:310:38:34

-..these tales

-grew into magical fantasies.

0:38:340:38:37

-You could argue that the legends...

0:38:440:38:46

-..are rooted in the real

-experiences of the early Welsh.

0:38:460:38:50

-The sea plays a key role in the tale

-of Branwen, daughter of Llyr.

0:38:510:38:55

-It's one of the four branches

-of The Mabinogion.

0:38:550:38:57

-I met Gwyn Thomas,

-the poet and scholar...

0:38:580:39:01

-..who's immersed himself

-in the legends.

0:39:020:39:05

-The story was first written

-about 1,000 years ago.

0:39:050:39:09

-But it was repeated

-for centuries before that.

0:39:100:39:13

-They include ancient tales.

0:39:130:39:16

-The story begins with Branwen's

-brother, the giant, Bendigeidfran.

0:39:160:39:20

-He was sitting somewhere in Harlech,

-near to where we are.

0:39:200:39:24

-He and his courtiers spotted

-13 ships coming towards them...

0:39:250:39:30

-..from southern Ireland.

0:39:300:39:32

-They could see

-the magnificent, grand ships.

0:39:330:39:37

-They had silk sails.

0:39:380:39:40

-He sent his men

-to discover what they wanted.

0:39:420:39:45

-The sea was high...

0:39:460:39:50

-..reaching the bottom of the rock

-where we're standing.

0:39:500:39:54

-The Irish launched the barges they

-carried on their larger boats...

0:39:540:39:59

-..and sailed to shore.

0:40:000:40:02

-Bendigeidfran asked them

-what they wanted.

0:40:030:40:06

-Matholwch, King of Ireland...

0:40:070:40:09

-..had come to ask Bendigeidfran

-for his sister's hand in marriage.

0:40:100:40:14

-Bendigeidfran and Matholwch

-arranged the marriage.

0:40:160:40:19

-The Irish received a warm welcome.

0:40:200:40:22

-But Matholwch and Efnisien

-didn't see eye to eye.

0:40:220:40:25

-Efnisien was Bendigedifran's

-half-brother.

0:40:250:40:28

-Efnisien attacked the Irishmen's

-horses, fatally wounding them.

0:40:280:40:32

-The Irish wanted revenge.

0:40:340:40:38

-Back in Ireland, Branwen

-was sent to work as a maid...

0:40:400:40:43

-..in Matholwch's kitchen.

0:40:440:40:45

-Once again, the sea played

-a central role in the story.

0:40:460:40:50

-In case the news of Branwen's

-punishment reached Bendigeidfran...

0:40:510:40:55

-..in Britain...

0:40:560:40:58

-..Matholwch, King of Ireland,

-prevented every ship...

0:40:580:41:02

-..every barge and coracle

-from leaving Ireland.

0:41:020:41:05

-The three types of boats mentioned

-sailed to and from Ireland to Wales.

0:41:050:41:10

-There were sails

-on the larger ships.

0:41:110:41:14

-They could also carry smaller boats.

0:41:140:41:17

-Gruffydd ap Cynan crossed to Ireland

-from Wales in a barge.

0:41:180:41:26

-But there were sails of some sort

-on the Irish boats.

0:41:270:41:32

-The coracles were much bigger

-than the ones we're accustomed to.

0:41:330:41:38

-They would fish in these

-15 foot long, fragile boats.

0:41:410:41:47

-More than likely, the references

-to coracles and barges...

0:41:530:41:57

-..were added to The Mabinogion

-at a later stage...

0:41:570:42:00

-..when the tales

-were first written down.

0:42:000:42:03

-The Irish coracle, the curragh...

0:42:060:42:08

-..is still used

-on the Aran Islands today.

0:42:080:42:11

-Here in Wales, after crossing

-the beach in Harlech...

0:42:190:42:22

-..the valley we associate with

-Bendigeidfran and Branwen's home...

0:42:220:42:27

-..Gwyn Thomas discussed how the sea

-has moved over the centuries.

0:42:280:42:32

-When Bendigeidfran and

-his soldiers sailed to Ireland...

0:42:350:42:39

-..to save Branwen...

0:42:390:42:41

-..the sea was no wider

-than a large river.

0:42:420:42:46

-The soldiers sailed in boats.

0:42:470:42:49

-Bendigeidfran walked through

-the shallow water.

0:42:490:42:52

-The sea later invaded this area.

0:42:530:42:58

-The drowned community

-of Cantre'r Gwaelod...

0:42:590:43:02

-..testified that

-there was a town or city there.

0:43:020:43:04

-Yes. There were three kingdoms here,

-according to legend.

0:43:040:43:10

-One became Cantre'r Gwaelod,

-in the kingdom of Gwyddno.

0:43:100:43:14

-Seithennin guarded

-the doors to keep the sea out.

0:43:150:43:20

-But he got drunk one night

-and the sea flooded in.

0:43:210:43:26

-What does that say about the Welsh,

-when these stories were written?

0:43:290:43:33

-I think they were very accustomed

-to the sea, especially around here.

0:43:340:43:40

-They could remember the sea flooding

-the land.

0:43:420:43:47

-As if to strengthen that belief...

0:43:540:43:57

-..at low tide, remains of an old

-forest are visible on the seabed...

0:43:570:44:01

-..in Cardigan Bay.

0:44:010:44:03

-This suggests there is an element

-of truth in some of the tales.

0:44:030:44:07

-Perhaps it's just the imagination

-of the old storytellers.

0:44:110:44:15

-But we know for certain that

-there's a recurring connection...

0:44:160:44:19

-..between Wales and Ireland,

-over thousands of years.

0:44:190:44:22

-Some claim that Welsh sailors...

0:44:260:44:28

-..ventured further afield

-than the Emerald Isle.

0:44:290:44:32

-The most famous of these

-adventurers is Madog.

0:44:320:44:36

-According to legend, he was

-a Prince, who lived in Anglesey.

0:44:380:44:44

-He and his sailors

-sailed to America.

0:44:450:44:50

-If that were true, they were the

-first Europeans to discover America.

0:44:520:44:59

-People lived there anyway.

0:44:590:45:02

-It's a very dubious story,

-rooted in Tudor times.

0:45:040:45:09

-The Tudors believed

-Henry VII was Welsh.

0:45:100:45:14

-A Welsh family sat

-on the throne of Britain.

0:45:140:45:18

-The Madog legend was exaggerated

-for a purpose.

0:45:200:45:24

-If they could claim

-that Britain discovered America...

0:45:240:45:30

-..they would lay claim

-to the country.

0:45:310:45:35

-Madog would have been to America

-before Columbus.

0:45:350:45:39

-It's interesting that Madog's tale

-came to the public domain...

0:45:440:45:48

-..at a time when a feeling of

-national pride existed in Wales.

0:45:480:45:52

-At the end of the Tudor era,

-the tale was forgotten...

0:45:540:45:58

-..only to be resurrected

-in the Victorian Age.

0:45:580:46:01

-This is when the new industrial

-Wales began to grow in confidence.

0:46:020:46:06

-Welsh steel and coal

-were exported all over the world.

0:46:070:46:11

-The idea of a Welshman discovering

-America fired the imagination again.

0:46:110:46:16

-In the 19th century,

-Thomas Stephens wrote an essay...

0:46:180:46:22

-..for the 1858 National Eisteddfod

-at Llangollen.

0:46:230:46:25

-He dismissed the legend,

-accusing it of being false.

0:46:280:46:33

-Although the judges said

-it was the best piece of work...

0:46:360:46:39

-..he didn't get the prize

-because he destroyed the legend.

0:46:400:46:46

-Legends explain

-our sailing history...

0:46:500:46:53

-..and help us understand

-the sea itself.

0:46:530:46:56

-But more than anything...

0:46:570:46:59

-..they present a vivid picture

-of the early Welsh psyche.

0:46:590:47:03

-We've been sailors

-for many centuries...

0:47:040:47:07

-..starting with

-the legend of Branwen.

0:47:080:47:11

-But there were people

-in Aberdaron in the early 1900s...

0:47:110:47:16

-..who had been, as children,

-to Rio de Janeiro...

0:47:170:47:20

-..but who hadn't been

-near Llandudno.

0:47:200:47:22

-The seafaring tradition is strong

-along the coastline of Wales.

0:47:230:47:27

-And there's plenty

-of coastline in Wales.

0:47:300:47:32

-750 miles of sea surrounds us

-on three sides of our country.

0:47:320:47:37

-But despite the proverb

-'familiarity breeds contempt'...

0:47:410:47:44

-..that wasn't the experience

-of the Welsh.

0:47:440:47:47

-There's a famous story

-about the climber George Mallory.

0:47:490:47:53

-People asked him what drove him

-to climb Everest.

0:47:530:47:57

-"Because it's there," he replied.

0:47:570:48:00

-Perhaps this explains our

-ancient fascination with the sea.

0:48:000:48:04

-The sea is all around us,

-challenging us to explore it.

0:48:040:48:08

-And yet, I'm not sure

-whether that's the whole story.

0:48:190:48:22

-Is that how we explain

-the Welsh seafaring culture?

0:48:220:48:26

-Or is there

-a less exciting explanation...

0:48:280:48:31

-..that's closer to the truth?

0:48:320:48:34

-Were the first sailors

-searching for a better life...

0:48:350:48:39

-..rather than an adventurous life?

0:48:390:48:41

-As the poet once remarked, 'Few

-of God's wonders were performed...

0:48:430:48:47

-..'on the impoverished

-Menai Straits.'

0:48:470:48:49

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