Ynysoedd Llefydd Sanctaidd


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-Islands

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-We think of islands as places to

-retreat from the world's troubles.

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-It's an old perception.

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-Traditionally, man went to the

-desert to be closer to his god...

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-..to meditate...

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-..to escape from the world...

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-..and find a vision.

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-Where better to seek

-spiritual sanctuary...

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-..than on an island?

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-In this programme, I'll visit

-some of Britain's holy islands.

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-I'm starting here,

-on St Herbert's Island.

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-Herbert came to this island

-in Derwentwater, Cumbria...

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-..to live as a hermit

-in the seventh century.

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-Retreating was a tradition

-dating back to early Christianity.

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-Christian monks

-left their communities...

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-..to live alone

-in the desert and pray.

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-There wasn't a desert in Britain for

-a fledgling hermit like St Herbert.

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-But there were numerous islands

-off Britain's coastline...

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-..and in her lakes.

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-I'd like to think...

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-..this ruin was part

-of St Herbert's cell.

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-It's part of a chapel built

-for medieval pilgrims.

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-St Herbert would have led

-a simple life here.

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-He had everything

-he needed from the lake...

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-..water to drink and fish to eat...

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-..allowing him to spend his time

-meditating and praying.

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-St Herbert left the island

-only once a year...

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-..to confess to his great friend,

-St Cuthbert...

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-..an abbot on Lindisfarne Island.

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-They were such great friends...

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-..that St Herbert prayed to God

-they both could die the same day.

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-He couldn't imagine life

-without his friend.

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-And that's what happened,

-on the 20th of March, 687.

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-The island is a beautiful place

-to visit, even on a day like today.

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-Here, surrounded

-by the glory of nature...

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-..it's easy to imagine finding

-a deeper spiritual awareness.

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-But this is what I want to know.

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-Is there more to islands

-than natural beauty?

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-Driving to the next location

-feels like being on an island.

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-But I'm in a river of traffic.

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-Was that the hidden agenda

-for devising motorways?

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-For a rare opportunity

-to be alone...

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-..a relative luxury

-in our hectic modern lives.

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-On the motorway...

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-..we're between two worlds...

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-..midway between

-our starting point and destination.

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-In the Middle Ages, holy islands

-were viewed in the same way...

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-..a midway point

-between this world and the next.

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-I'm going to Hereford Cathedral.

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-It's 50 miles from the sea

-without a holy island near it.

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-But this is the home of Mappa Mundi

-or map of the world.

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-It dates back to 1300.

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-Through studying the map...

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-..we gain an insight into

-how our forefathers viewed islands.

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-But it's a map unlike

-any we're used to.

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-Cannon Chris Pullin

-is an expert on the map.

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-I've asked his help

-to decipher it.

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-One thing is that it faces east.

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-East is at the top, not north.

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-Britain is just there,

-in the bottom left hand quarter.

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-If we turn our heads to one side...

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-..we see Britain

-compressed like a baby in the womb.

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-Upon closer inspection...

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-..we see familiar names

-like Londonia, or London.

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-Here, in red writing,

-there's Snawedon or Snowdon.

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-Caernarfon is nearby.

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-Why are the countries

-stacked on top of each other?

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-It's been presented within a circle

-because that was a perfect shape.

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-Things have been distorted

-to fit within the circle...

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-..and not just

-to fit within the circle...

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-..but to have Jerusalem placed

-at the very centre of the map.

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-That's another distortion.

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-The Holy Land is presented

-out of all proportion...

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-..to its actual size in the world.

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-It's very large in the map,

-but then it's very significant...

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-..and that's the reason why.

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-To the medieval mind...

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-..religious accuracy had precedence

-over geographical accuracy.

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-I asked Chris about the chain of

-islands on the right of the map...

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-..below North Africa.

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-Around the edges of the map

-we tend to have islands and lands...

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-..that are known about through

-legend and ancient writings...

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-..but which no human has ever seen,

-or has ever seen mythical, I guess!

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-Down here, we have the Happy

-Islands, the Fortunate Islands...

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-..where fruit fell into your hand...

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-..and sheep and ewes

-walked up to you to be milked.

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-An earthy paradise.

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-An earthy paradise.

-

-That's right.

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-On the top of Mappa Mundi,

-we see Eden...

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-..paradise itself...

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-..represented as a circular island

-surrounded by a circle of fire.

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-Why was Eden considered

-an island in the Middle Ages?

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-They believed it was somewhere...

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-..but quite where, no-one could say,

-in the east, in the furthest east.

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-No-one had been there and no-one

-had seemed to reach it or find it.

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-There was the legend

-that people who died...

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-..those who were going to heaven

-waited there for the end of time...

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-..and the opening of the gates of

-heaven when they would then go in.

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-Directly about it

-we have Christ sitting in majesty...

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-..judging the souls

-of the living and dead.

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-Those on his left

-going into the jaws of hell...

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-..and those on his right being

-received by angels into heaven.

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-The worldly paradise is very close

-to where on the map...

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-..we see

-the heavenly realm depicted.

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-My next destination...

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-..is an island off

-the north east coast of Anglesey.

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-But it's only at high tide

-that Llanddwyn is an island at all.

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-A cold and sad beauty

-surrounds Llanddwyn Island today...

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-..which seems fitting.

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-St Dwynwen,

-who gave the island its name...

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-..first came here

-suffering from a broken heart.

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-As the tide turned and the water

-became shallow enough to cross...

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-..the island warden gave me a lift.

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-I'm meeting Rev Andrew Jones

-to learn more about Dwynwen.

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-It's believed she was one

-of Brychan Brycheiniog's daughters.

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-She fell in love with Maelon.

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-But her father had different ideas.

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-He'd promised her hand to another.

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-Maelon is heartbroken.

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-Dwynwen begs God...

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-..to help her

-forget her love for him.

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-One night, after praying fervently,

-God gives her a potion.

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-She drinks it.

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-But Maelon also drinks it

-and turns into a lump of ice.

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-To solve this new development,

-Dwynwen is granted three wishes.

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-Firstly, Maelon's release.

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-Secondly, that she will

-never be troubled again...

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-..by feelings of love for him

-or any other living man.

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-And lastly,

-for God to work through her...

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-..to look after all true lovers.

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-Dwynwen was granted her wishes.

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-We remember her

-on the 25th of January...

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-..as the patron saint

-of Welsh lovers.

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-Dwynwen spent the rest of her life

-as a nun on Llanddwyn.

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-This is where she died, around 460.

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-Why have people been drawn

-to islands throughout the ages?

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-It's an early Christian tradition.

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-Men and women left

-their communities...

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-..and went to deserts

-in Syria, Palestine and Egypt.

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-They retreated to create

-a deeper relationship with God.

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-They escaped, but they fled

-to have more freedom to worship...

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-..and immerse themselves

-in spirituality.

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-Ironically,

-once they had retreated...

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-..people flocked

-to be closer to them...

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-..because they thought

-their holiness was contagious...

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-..to take advantage

-of their sanctity.

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-But as humans, we are social beings.

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-Is it good to be so insular?

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-Interestingly, Llanddwyn

-is unlike other islands.

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-Bardsey and Caldey

-are always islands.

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-But because of the tide...

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-..Llanddwyn isn't an island

-all day, every day.

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-The tide makes her an island

-at certain times of the day.

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-There's a life lesson there.

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-Like many,

-I like to be an island at times.

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-But like Llanddwyn,

-I also need the company of people.

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-What was a nun or monk's life

-on such an island?

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-In part two, I visit

-a community of contemporary monks...

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-..on an island off the Scottish

-coast, to find the answer.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Pleased to meet you, Ifor.

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-What would it be like to live

-a monk's life on a Holy Isle?

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-I've come to Scotland

-to meet contemporary monks...

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-..to find the answer.

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-I'm going to Eilean Molaise, the

-Holy Isle off the coast of Arran.

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-The spiritual tradition

-that's practised there today...

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-..isn't one we'd expect in Scotland.

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-In Scottish Gaelic,

-Eilean Molaise means Molaise Island.

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-Molaise was a Christian monk who

-settled here in the sixth century.

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-Since the 1990s, the island

-has become home to Buddhist monks.

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-On part of the island...

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-..seventeen nuns have retreated

-from the world for four years...

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-..in keeping

-with Buddhist tradition.

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-I wasn't allowed to visit

-that part of the island.

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-But there's

-a Studies Centre at the other end.

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-I'm meeting Choden,

-a former monk who runs the courses.

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-I asked him

-about the island's appeal.

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-It's got an amazing history

-going back to the sixth century.

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-There's a tangible energy here,

-something quite pure.

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-We don't want commercial activity.

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-Once here,

-it's actually hard to spend money!

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-There's no mobile phone reception,

-we're not keen on the Internet.

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-We have a few connections

-because we need it.

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-We try to make this place

-as simple and pure as we can.

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-We're not trying

-to create some rarefied place...

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-..set apart from the world.

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-We try to provide a context

-where people can get rejuvenated...

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-..emotionally and spiritually...

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-..tap something in themselves and

-carry that with them in their lives.

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-A place that cultivates

-inner growth, peace and awareness...

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-..if you set something like

-that up, it has a powerful effect.

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-Buddhists reach a state

-of awareness and inner peace...

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-..through prayer

-and quiet meditation.

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-Even though I'd never tried

-this form of meditation...

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-..Choden invited me to join

-one of his sessions on the islands.

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-The first thing

-is to sit comfortably.

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-The actual practice is...

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-..using the breathing

-and becoming aware of the breath...

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-..as we breathe in and out.

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-Every time your mind

-wanders away, notice that...

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-..and bring your attention back

-to the breathing.

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-They'll meditate silently

-like this...

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-..for 45 minutes every morning

-and an hour at night.

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-I was released after five minutes.

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-I enjoyed experiencing

-one of their rituals.

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-It's a large part

-of their vision for the island.

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-They welcome every faith,

-and even those who have no faith.

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-The next island on my journey

-lies off the Northumbria coast.

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-I'm going to Lindisfarne.

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-Like Llanddwyn,

-it can be reached over land.

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-But in Lindisfarne's case,

-it involves more travelling.

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-Wow.

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-I'm halfway across the causeway

-that leads to Lindisfarne.

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-The sea covers the causeway

-at certain times of the day.

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-You have to take care of the tide!

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-At least once a month,

-a car gets stuck here.

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-The real pilgrims...

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-..walked to the island...

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-..by following

-the line of poles in the sand.

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-If they were caught by the tide...

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-..they made a dash

-for those wooden huts...

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-..and sheltered there

-until the tide turned!

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-Lindisfarne Abbey, established

-in the early 7th century...

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-..was a branch of

-the Christian community on Iona...

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-..off the west coast of Scotland.

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-It was part of a mission...

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-..to reintroduce

-Christianity throughout England.

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-It soon became

-the most holy island in Britain.

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-It's no surprise that the island

-attracts 150,000 of pilgrims...

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-..every year.

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-It's where the famous Lindisfarne

-Gospels were produced...

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-..and where parts of the Bible

-was first translated into English.

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-But it was the reign of St Cuthbert

-that made Lindisfarne famous.

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-He was the sixth abbot.

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-He was a shrewd leader

-of the Church in difficult times.

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-When his duties permitted...

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-..he retreated from the other monks

-to stand in the sea and pray.

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-When he came out of the sea...

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-..two otters ran to him,

-breathed on his feet to warm them...

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-..and dry them with their fur.

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-On this remote island...

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-..the monks' lives

-were governed by the seasons.

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-Cuthbert was arguably

-the first ever nature reservist.

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-He banned the practice of

-hunting wild ducks and seabirds...

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-..and collecting their eggs.

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-The location

-of Lindisfarne Abbey on an island...

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-..was a curse as well as a blessing.

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-Due to its remoteness...

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-..the Abbey became an important

-cultural and spiritual centre...

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-..full of treasures.

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-But it was also

-an easy target from the sea.

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-The Vikings first attacked in 793.

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-After a series

-of similar, savage campaigns...

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-..the monks were forced to flee.

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-After they left the island...

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-..things gradually

-went back to the natural state...

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-..which first attracted them.

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-Enlli

-is the final island I'm visiting.

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-This little island

-was familiar to the Vikings.

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-They gave Enlli her English name,

-Bardsey.

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-It's said 20,000 saints

-are buried here.

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-Why did they venture

-to cross the Sound to Enlli?

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-In many traditions...

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-..crossing water represents

-the journey to a better place...

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-..some sort of paradise.

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-The Vikings sent their dead out

-to sea in ships that were ablaze.

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-In Maori legend...

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-..souls gathered at the

-country's most northerly point...

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-..before embarking

-on their final journey.

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-In India,

-after the body is burned...

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-..the ashes are scattered on

-the Ganga to be carried out to sea.

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-Crossing to Enlli was sacred,

-according to the Welsh.

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-But its sanctity

-was known beyond Wales.

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-In the early 12th century...

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-..Pope Calixtus II declared

-that three pilgrimages to Enlli...

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-..was as valuable as one to Rome.

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-If that sounds like an easy option,

-it wasn't.

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-Crossing to Enlli

-has always been perilous.

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-In the 19th century...

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-..there would be a shipwreck

-every other year on Bardsey Sound.

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-To this day...

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-..the ship to the island is

-often cancelled due to bad weather.

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-To many pilgrims,

-coming to St Mary's Well...

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-..behind me...

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-..was a consolation prize.

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-Even though the waves

-wash over it at high tide...

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-..its water

-is miraculously clear and unsalted.

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-To many pilgrims,

-this was the journey's end.

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-And unfortunately for me,

-it was my journey's end, too.

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-I wouldn't be crossing today. I

-could only stare at Enlli from afar.

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-At the tip of Lleyn...

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-..where better

-to meditate about the horizon?

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-Enlli lies

-between us and the horizon.

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-It's almost within reach

-yet unreachable...

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-..out there in the sea.

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-I wonder if Enlli...

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-..was the island

-at the top of Mappa Mundi?

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-A stepping stone

-between this world and the next...

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-..somewhere eternal

-yet inaccessible?

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-We certainly can't get there today.

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-Perhaps that's more apt.

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-Sometimes it's better

-to pause on the journey...

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-..to meditate...

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-..than reach the promised land.

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-S4C Subtitles by Gwead

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