Birth of a 'berg Operation Iceberg


Birth of a 'berg

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Travel so far north,

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the summer sun never sets.

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Here is one of the last great wildernesses -

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the vast ice sheet of Greenland.

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It's the birthplace of the most massive and spectacular objects

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on the planet -

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icebergs.

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Up to 20 billion tonnes in weight and the height of a skyscraper,

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these monsters of the ocean have long fascinated us.

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Now, in this series,

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an international team of scientists and adventurers

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wants to explore these wonders of the natural world.

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Wow! Look at that!

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I knew it was going to be big, but this is massive.

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Just phenomenal.

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They hope to discover the secret life of icebergs,

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from spectacular birth,

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to watery death.

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This is a dream come true.

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A polar bear on OUR iceberg.

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They'll be risking their lives in one of the most unpredictable

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and violent environments on Earth.

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-It's falling here.

-This whole bit's coming off.

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Look at the wave! Look at the wave!

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Look at the wave!

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That's one of the biggest bits of natural destruction

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I've ever seen in my life.

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In this programme, the team will be exploring an arctic glacier,

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to try to answer how icebergs are born,

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from blocks of ice of just a thousand tonnes,

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to giant mega-bergs.

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That, to me, looks like one great big, white mystery.

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Every measurement counts because this is like a knowledge void, a data void.

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We've been trying to measure these things in St Paul's Cathedrals, but I wouldn't know where to start.

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If you think icebergs are nothing more than floating chunks of ice,

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prepare to think again.

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Greenland's glaciers.

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Each year, they pump out 20,000 icebergs,

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95% of all icebergs in the northern hemisphere.

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The iceberg that sank the Titanic came from here.

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And one of the mightiest of all Greenland glaciers is Store.

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A group of two dozen scientists, divers and camera crew

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has now come to investigate this remote glacier.

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Store glacier is on the west coast of Greenland,

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a 400-kilometre river of ice.

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It meets the sea with an ice cliff eight kilometres wide.

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The team's base camp will be on a high peninsula,

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overlooking this glacier front.

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It's the expedition of a lifetime for naturalist Chris Packham.

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All my life I've been fascinated by the natural world,

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understanding how it works.

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I remember as a kid opening my childhood encyclopaedias

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and looking in there and seeing glaciers.

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This is Store glacier.

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It's magnificent.

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If you can suffer landscape culture shock, then I'm in it.

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It's a logistical nightmare -

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five tonnes of scientific and filming equipment,

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and enough supplies for three weeks.

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Ocean expert Helen Czerski is also fascinated by Store.

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I'm a physicist and I study this stuff all around us.

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And so looking at that, that's just

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one big jigsaw puzzle to solve from a physicist's point of view.

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Andy Torbet used to be an underwater bomb disposal specialist.

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Here, he'll be helping the scientists reach places they wouldn't normally get to.

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Every morning when I wake up,

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that is what I see,

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and that is what it's all about.

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The medic is Dr Chris Van Tulleken.

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This is the kind of injury I absolutely love.

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-You're going to have a nice scar...

-Marvellous!

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..makes me look a tiny bit heroic,

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no-one's actually hurt.

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As well as treating the injured,

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Chris is keen on finding out how the team copes in this harsh environment.

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Right, good news.

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I've got another painful experiment, and I need a volunteer.

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They've been joined by a group of ice experts from around the world.

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We've got three weather stations going in here

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so it's nice to see that they've made it.

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They're all here to try to understand the birth of icebergs

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and, particularly, why glaciers like Store create so many.

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All of this ice is moving. It's creeping downwards all the time

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and, partly, that's happening because of gravity pulling the ice downwards

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towards the sea, down here to where icebergs calve off the front.

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But if that was the only thing that's going on,

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we wouldn't see as many icebergs as we do.

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So there's something else.

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This restless glacier releases 15 billion tonnes of ice

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into the sea every year, peaking now in summer.

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Day one and polar cameraman Doug Allan is filming

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the birth of a small iceberg.

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It's a process called calving.

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But it's nothing to what the team hopes to observe -

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a multi-million tonne mega-berg.

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The problem with calving, as far as I can see, is its unpredictability.

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Is there a point on the glacier

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where it's more or less likely to happen?

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There's a lot of minor activity in this embayment.

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It's kinda carved in that way,

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but we'll see the big ones out by these peninsulas.

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I so, so want to see it.

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I'm quite prepared to put up with being eaten alive by mosquitoes

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if, at the end of it,

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I can see one of these things happening. It'll be great!

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We've just got to keep our fingers crossed that someone's

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got a camera running when it happens. If it happens.

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All right, Doug, would you like a biscuit?

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I'll bring you a biscuit.

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A chocolate biscuit, thank you very much.

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That's what I like about that man.

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Like all glaciers,

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Store is a constantly moving river of frozen fresh water.

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I'm pretty good at that kind of thing!

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I mean, Jason's a dab hand, too.

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The team's first task is to discover how fast it flows.

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British glaciologist Alun Hubbard wants to helicopter in

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to plant a GPS tracker to measure its fastest point - the very front.

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You think there's a spot we can get down there?

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Not to land. I'll just jump out, is the idea.

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A quick game is a good game.

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OK. So three minutes, GPS on, right at the headland.

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It's extremely hazardous.

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This part of the glacier will be the next to collapse into the sea.

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He's calculated that if we put this device on,

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during the time we're here, it will break free

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and we'll get all the measurements up to that point,

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and that's cutting edge. I mean, you know, that's science at the edge.

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There's no room for a full camera crew.

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Chris himself will have to film Alun.

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Can you get on that?

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He needs to secure his GPS to the ice.

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But he must be quick.

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OK. Two, three minutes, OK?

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Oh, my goodness me!

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Just look at where he is!

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Frankly, that is astonishing.

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From where Alun is perched on top of this part of the glacier,

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there has to be a 100-metre drop,

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and he's got a couple of minutes to get that drill,

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and get that material in,

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and, frankly, if there's any movement on the ice,

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there is no chance of him making it off of there.

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It's just a pillar with this enormous crack down one side of it.

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-If I was to bet on the next pillar of ice...

-The next thing to go, it'd be that one.

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The pinnacle has to topple soon.

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Alun's instinct tells him it won't be today.

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But he cannot know for sure.

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Oh, that is astonishing!

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He's putting the pole in.

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OK, he's ready to go.

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OK, take us in, he's got it fixed. He wants to get out of there.

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Four minutes, 30 seconds.

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The device is secure.

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No wonder so little's known about the birth of icebergs.

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It's always quite a thrill to be in such a spectacular place.

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And, you know, it's a weird space-time thing, isn't it?

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Am I here at the right time or the wrong time?

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If all goes to plan, the GPS will beam back to camp

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the speed at the very front of the glacier.

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I tell you something, though, I hope the machine works.

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-If it malfunctions now and we have to go back...

-Exactly!

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Oh, no, no, no!

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The rate the glacier flows

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undoubtedly affects the number of icebergs formed.

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But how does the glacier,

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a four thousand million-tonne slab of ice, move at all?

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There's a theory Helen wants to investigate.

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Something is helping it along.

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The icebergs form mostly in the summer,

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so the glacier is flowing fastest in the summer.

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And we think there are some clues to why that happens right up ahead.

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15 kilometres up the glacier

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is a shimmering expanse of water over a kilometre wide.

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It's known as a blue lake.

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As we're coming in over the top of it,

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it looks like someone's poured blue food dye in there.

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Store has half a dozen of these temporary lakes.

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They form in spring as the temperature rises

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and water begins to pool.

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One theory claims water from these lakes drains

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to the bottom of the glacier,

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and helps it slide across the bedrock.

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But is there really enough water in the lake

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to move a four billion-tonne glacier?

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That's what the team hopes to discover.

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Oh, wow! Here's a really nice overlook.

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You can really see the colour. That's fantastic.

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Canadian glaciologist Michele Koppes believes these blue lakes

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help create icebergs.

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So what we're really trying to do is figure out where this water goes,

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and is it contributing to more calving

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at the terminus of the glacier?

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So what's happening from here, all the way to the end.

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At any moment, the ice below could crack open

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and drain the lake, like water pouring down a plughole.

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The team want to see how much water collects before it empties.

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So if I go in straight for a bit and then turn it sideways?

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-Yeah, that's great.

-So about there?

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Climatologist Jason Box has been tracking Store's blue lakes.

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Satellite images from recent years tells him

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that this lake should already have drained.

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So this lake's now two days past the average time when it would drain.

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It could go at any moment,

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so I'm glad that we're here getting this done.

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Before it drains, the team will track the rise in water level

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using a time-lapse camera and a depth sensor.

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We want to get as much information as we can.

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Every measurement counts because this is

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like a knowledge void, a data void.

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A rock acts as an anchor for the depth sensor.

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But it needs to be positioned on a stable surface ten metres down.

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It's a job for the two most experienced divers - Doug and Andy.

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I've never dived anywhere like this.

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And I've never dived in a location as remote,

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or as wild, or as dynamic as this,

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and certainly nowhere where, at any point during the dive,

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the water could all just drain under your feet.

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It looks fairly benign at the moment, and I think we can kit up,

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get in fairly quickly, do the job, put in the sensors where necessary,

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and then we'll get out and everything will be fine.

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Famous last words!

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No-one has ever dived a blue lake.

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If the lake unexpectedly drains,

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they could be sucked down into the glacier.

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The safety team would then attempt to haul them back on lifelines.

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Three, two, one, jump!

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It's absolutely beautiful down here.

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All these shades of white and blue.

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I'm going to...try and place this sensor here.

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The sensor will now record any change in depth.

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Let's have a bit of an explore,

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see if we can find where this plughole is, eh?

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Andy is keen to try to track down the opening through which the lake could drain.

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The bottom of the crevasse is deepening off here,

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as we push further out into the middle of the lake.

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But there are worrying signs the lake bed is unstable.

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Out into the middle of the lake

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and it's very, very calm water conditions,

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we've spotted a rising column of bubbles in the deep water.

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And that's obviously going to give us cause for concern.

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Oh!

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HE CHUCKLES

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Doug, there's a big cave here going straight down.

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I'm just going to have a look.

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This could be the lake's plughole.

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For Andy, it's a challenge he can't resist.

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Getting pretty dark in here.

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It's definitely getting narrower.

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No way. It's getting too tight.

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It's getting way too tight.

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I'm still...nowhere near the bottom.

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That's 40 minutes on the dive now, 41 now,

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so it's getting to be a long dive.

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The maximum dive length we agreed on wasn't much longer than this,

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and it's cold, and they'll be using air quickly,

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so they'll be out very soon, whatever they're doing.

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But something more urgent threatens Andy.

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HE BREATHES RAPIDLY

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I need to surface.

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I think this air hose is freezing up.

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Ice is blocking Andy's air supply.

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In this sort of environment,

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you can only do so much about trying to fix your kit underwater.

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There comes a point when you need to sack it and go home.

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In one piece.

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But the time-lapse camera is now in position and the depth sensor will track the water level.

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The team will return in a few days to see how much melt water

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has accumulated in the lake.

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Meanwhile, Chris is joining Alun and his crew on the research yacht Gambo.

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At the glacier front,

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Store has eight kilometres of ice in contact with the sea.

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The team suspects the ocean might also play

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a role in the creation of icebergs.

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But getting to the front isn't straightforward.

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Could you go up front and just tell me left or right, please?

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The Gambo is dwarfed by the towering ice front.

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I mean, it's difficult to get a sense of scale from here,

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but how high, 100 metres?

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Yeah, just under.

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To understand how the sea affects the glacier,

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Alun wants to map its front.

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He uses a powerful tool - side-scanning sonar.

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It reveals the hidden part of the glacier that's underwater.

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That's the actual equipment that sends out the sound wave,

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the acoustic wave, which bounces off the glacier and we pick it up.

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So we, hopefully, will be able to scan the whole face of the glacier

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and its toe.

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In charge of gathering data is Nolwenn.

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Happy with the speed, skipper?

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Yeah, yeah. I just have to restart the software.

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It's just crashed at the moment.

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Yeah, OK.

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To get a detailed scan, Gambo needs to be right up close

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to the ice front, just where the icebergs calve.

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They're playing Russian roulette with a glacier.

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Just a little bit.

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Just a little bit!

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We're 150 metres now. I would like to keep 200 or 300.

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Yeah, OK.

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How are we for bergs, Johannes?

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You have to go a bit starboard, I think.

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It's the first attempt by any research team to map the entire underwater ice front

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of a glacier as big as this.

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If they succeed,

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the scan could explain how the sea helps to trigger calving.

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But just then, the giant glacier reminds them of the risks.

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Woah, woah, woah!

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Over there.

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What happened?

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We have a calving event and what it triggered off

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was a large lump from under the water

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that shot up really high out of the water.

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That is quite a minor calving event, I hate to say, Chris.

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Minor it may be,

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but if the berg had calved minutes earlier,

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Gambo would've been crushed.

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But they've already got results.

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What can you see there?

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OK, here we've got a 2D slice of the glacier.

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So we've got the glacier front here and the sea bed here.

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That's the boat here.

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And looking at this top section here then,

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how deep is it now from the boat to the bottom?

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So the bottom of the fjord at the moment is about 400 metres here.

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So we're looking at cliffs outside that are about 80 to 100 metres tall

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at their highest, but there's 400 metres beneath the water.

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Yeah, yeah, at least. It will be even deeper in some places.

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-Even deeper?

-Yeah, we went down to 500 metres.

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And the ice was still touching the bottom?

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Still touching the bottom, yeah.

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-Wow!

-Yeah, clearly, it's touching the bottom.

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There is four times as much ice cliff below the water than above.

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And a scan reveals another surprise -

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the bottom of the glacier is undercut.

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Now, what's the distance between the front of the cliff

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and the back, how deep is that undercut?

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-At the moment it's about 150 metres. At least.

-150 metres?

-At least.

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It might be deeper but we can't see it

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because of the kind of angle we are.

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The huge undercut means the glacier above is unstable.

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It could explain why the ice front is so prone to collapsing.

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It's the end of a long day and the team will need to return to find out

0:24:380:24:42

how this undercut has been formed.

0:24:420:24:45

The expedition has been under way for a week.

0:24:520:24:54

The team came prepared for the dangers of the glacier,

0:24:540:24:58

but no-one bargained for a far more maddening threat.

0:24:580:25:01

BUZZING

0:25:010:25:03

Mosquitoes.

0:25:040:25:06

During the short Arctic summer,

0:25:060:25:08

the mosquitoes survive on nectar from plants.

0:25:080:25:12

But they much prefer the blood of mammals, any they can find.

0:25:120:25:16

Let's look at this. There are quite proper bites, actually, aren't they?

0:25:160:25:20

Dr Chris is an expert in tropical medicine.

0:25:200:25:23

He didn't expect to be using those skills here.

0:25:230:25:27

He wants to find out if some people are especially attractive to mosquitoes.

0:25:270:25:31

Good news, everyone! I've developed another experiment.

0:25:310:25:35

It's going to be painful and I need a volunteer.

0:25:350:25:38

Andy Torbet, thank you.

0:25:380:25:40

LAUGHTER

0:25:400:25:42

-I hate you!

-Let's go.

0:25:420:25:44

With friends like these...

0:25:440:25:46

-So what's the plan?

-We're going to sit here with our shirts off,

0:25:470:25:51

no insect repellent on, and see who gets more bites.

0:25:510:25:53

-I like straightforward experimental protocols.

-You're a genius(!)

0:25:530:25:57

So, obviously, there is a competitive element to this.

0:25:590:26:02

Whoever gets bitten more loses blatantly.

0:26:020:26:05

Hmm. So what they'll be doing is smelling us,

0:26:050:26:09

and they're first of all attracted to our carbon dioxide.

0:26:090:26:12

They'll be following the carbon dioxide trail in,

0:26:120:26:15

and when they get close,

0:26:150:26:16

they start to smell sweat and body odour.

0:26:160:26:18

Some people have chemicals in their sweat that mosquitoes really like.

0:26:180:26:22

-Argh!

-There.

0:26:220:26:24

They're all females, and this one is swollen with blood.

0:26:240:26:28

The person bitten most will be producing

0:26:310:26:34

more of the chemicals that attract mosquitoes.

0:26:340:26:37

There's absolutely nothing on you. So how are we doing?

0:26:390:26:43

-I've got one there.

-Two, three.

0:26:430:26:45

-Four.

-Four.

-Five.

-Five.

0:26:450:26:48

-My go.

-8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17.

0:26:480:26:53

So why have you got 32 on your right side

0:26:530:26:55

and only two on your left side?

0:26:550:26:57

I think it's the down-wind side.

0:26:570:26:58

They're attracted to the CO2 from there,

0:26:580:27:01

and they're not getting blown away.

0:27:010:27:03

So they're more attracted to you. You're getting bitten more.

0:27:030:27:06

My sweat is more appealing to mosquitoes than yours.

0:27:060:27:09

So if I had these chemicals like Octanol in my sweat,

0:27:090:27:11

mosquitoes really like that.

0:27:110:27:13

Hence, I've won!

0:27:130:27:14

-All I've won is more mosquito bites.

-Correct.

0:27:140:27:17

It's been several days since the team were at the blue lake

0:27:450:27:49

to set up the time-lapse camera and the depth sensor.

0:27:490:27:53

So, what's happened?

0:27:530:27:56

The lake is quite definitely still there.

0:27:570:28:00

It hasn't drained and the lake's got bigger,

0:28:000:28:03

so it looks as though it's been rising. It's filled up.

0:28:030:28:07

It was full of ice islands before and it's not any more.

0:28:070:28:11

The lake has risen so much,

0:28:130:28:15

the camera is centimetres away from being drowned.

0:28:150:28:19

The equipment was supposed to be retrieved from the shore.

0:28:300:28:34

Andy will have to improvise.

0:28:370:28:40

I just want him out of the water as quickly as possible.

0:28:410:28:43

I'm finding it like...

0:28:430:28:44

I'm finding it a bit stressful watching him.

0:28:440:28:47

I know he's good and I know he's a good swimmer and he knows what

0:28:470:28:49

he's doing in the water, but...

0:28:490:28:51

this water is not a human habitat. Erm...

0:28:510:28:54

Yeah.

0:28:560:28:57

Give it to me. Oh, good man! Success!

0:28:570:29:01

It's getting a bit cold now, though.

0:29:010:29:03

Right. Cup of tea, I think!

0:29:030:29:05

But for Helen and Jason, it was worth it.

0:29:100:29:13

The time-lapse footage

0:29:130:29:15

and the data from the sensor reveal what's been happening.

0:29:150:29:19

-It's so smooth and still on top...

-It's so glassy!

0:29:200:29:23

..but you can see it's just creeping, creeping up the sides of the ice.

0:29:230:29:27

It's just filling up.

0:29:270:29:29

I love the way you can see the bits blown by the wind.

0:29:290:29:31

Because they're speeded up, they just zoom across the field of view.

0:29:310:29:35

Yeah, we call those speed-bergs.

0:29:350:29:36

-Did you see that one? Nyerrrrm!

-SHE LAUGHS

0:29:360:29:39

But more precise is Jason's depth sensor.

0:29:400:29:43

It shows exactly how much the lake's risen.

0:29:450:29:48

-It filled up fairly smoothly.

-Yeah.

0:29:480:29:50

It just kept going, kept going, kept topping up,

0:29:500:29:53

-and then slowed down a bit at the end.

-Yeah.

0:29:530:29:55

It looks like it filled on... You can see on this axis,

0:29:550:29:58

let's call that, like, 18 to 25.

0:29:580:30:02

-Seven metres.

-Yeah, that's impressive.

0:30:020:30:04

-That's a lot of water.

-Right!

0:30:040:30:06

The team calculates just this one lake now contains

0:30:070:30:10

over five million cubic metres of water.

0:30:100:30:14

That's 2,000 Olympic swimming pools.

0:30:140:30:17

A staggering quantity.

0:30:190:30:21

Together with the other blue lakes and melt water on Store,

0:30:240:30:29

that's easily enough water to help the glacier

0:30:290:30:32

slide towards the sea and create more icebergs.

0:30:320:30:35

Glaciologists believe the water drains down shafts

0:30:390:30:43

into the heart of the glacier.

0:30:430:30:45

At the bottom, it spreads across the bedrock,

0:30:450:30:49

and it's this lubricating water that allows the ice to slide quickly.

0:30:490:30:54

So just how fast does the glacier travel?

0:30:570:31:01

The GPS Alun set up at the ice front should give them the answer.

0:31:040:31:08

But at four o'clock in the morning,

0:31:120:31:15

when only the unmanned cameras are watching, this happens.

0:31:150:31:19

CRACKING

0:31:190:31:21

Not just the ice pillar that Alun stood on,

0:31:250:31:28

but a whole section of the glacier front collapses,

0:31:280:31:32

taking the GPS with it.

0:31:320:31:34

It's the biggest calving the team has seen so far.

0:31:370:31:40

But before the GPS took the plunge,

0:31:430:31:46

it sent back data about the glacier's speed.

0:31:460:31:49

It's quite revealing. Its mean velocity is about 25 metres a day.

0:31:520:31:57

That's just under 10km a year right at the ice front,

0:31:570:32:01

and you can see it's varied from something down at ten metres a day

0:32:010:32:06

and just before it toppled in,

0:32:060:32:08

you can see it's moving at over 50 metres a day.

0:32:080:32:12

It's a lovely idea cos we've been looking at this thing

0:32:120:32:15

and in my head I'd imagined it was almost steady movement and it isn't.

0:32:150:32:18

You're saying it speeds up and slows down, and it speeds up and slows down, as the days go on.

0:32:180:32:23

That average of 25 metres a day is the length of two buses.

0:32:240:32:29

It makes Store one of the fastest glaciers in the world.

0:32:290:32:32

So the fact that the front of Store glacier

0:32:340:32:37

is moving at such a high speed

0:32:370:32:40

means there's lots and lots of ice coming through,

0:32:400:32:42

and that's generating lots and lots of icebergs.

0:32:420:32:45

Of course. It is an iceberg-producing machine.

0:32:450:32:48

This speed is only possible thanks to the lubrication by melt water.

0:32:520:32:57

But the team still wants to find out how the ocean

0:32:590:33:02

drives the creation of icebergs.

0:33:020:33:04

The Gambo has returned to the glacier front.

0:33:080:33:11

They're back to investigate why there's such a severe undercut at the base.

0:33:120:33:18

Yeah, try to get it somewhere like here.

0:33:180:33:21

Nolwenn suspects the temperature of the water could be responsible,

0:33:210:33:24

and lowers a probe to the sea bed.

0:33:240:33:28

Much of the Gambo's kit has been ingeniously lashed together.

0:33:280:33:33

Where did this come from?

0:33:330:33:35

The top pulley is actually a pram wheel.

0:33:350:33:38

-What on earth is going on here, Nolwenn?!

-That's a brake.

0:33:380:33:43

Look at that! Depth is spelt incorrectly!

0:33:430:33:46

It says D-E-P-H-T! There's no P in "Speed".

0:33:460:33:48

LAUGHTER

0:33:480:33:50

Keep winching!

0:33:500:33:52

Marvellous(!) It's a contraption without...

0:33:520:33:55

It's a grade ten contraption, without a shred of a doubt.

0:33:550:33:58

But it works.

0:34:000:34:02

And the temperature readings are a revelation.

0:34:020:34:06

So here we've got the temperature against the depth,

0:34:060:34:09

so here we've got the depth, surfaces here, 800 metres here.

0:34:090:34:12

-Yeah.

-That's zero degrees and that's six degrees here,

0:34:120:34:15

so what we can see is that on the surface

0:34:150:34:18

we get relatively warm water that's cooling down pretty quickly,

0:34:180:34:22

and after that, it's warming as we go further down,

0:34:220:34:26

with a maximum at 2.7 degrees.

0:34:260:34:29

This water, from 300 metres to the bottom at 800, is at 2.4 degrees.

0:34:290:34:35

The water of the sea bed is unexpectedly warm,

0:34:360:34:39

well above freezing.

0:34:390:34:41

The impact of such water is dramatic.

0:34:430:34:47

It's melting the undercut at the glacier's base,

0:34:470:34:51

weakening the ice front,

0:34:510:34:54

creating icebergs.

0:34:540:34:56

-Hmm, top data!

-Yeah, really great! Yep.

0:34:570:35:00

-Terrible winch.

-Yeah, terrible winch.

0:35:000:35:03

Can't win 'em all.

0:35:030:35:04

The team believe the warm water that's undercutting the glacier

0:35:080:35:12

might get even warmer due to climate change.

0:35:120:35:16

Across the Greenland ice sheet itself,

0:35:190:35:22

warmer spring temperatures are leading to a dramatic increase

0:35:220:35:25

in the amount of ice and melt water draining into the sea.

0:35:250:35:29

It's something that particularly concerns Jason Box.

0:35:310:35:36

There's a net loss of ice from Greenland in the last decade

0:35:360:35:40

of about 300 billion tonnes per year.

0:35:400:35:44

That's producing approaching 1mm per year of sea level rise,

0:35:440:35:49

so in ten years, that adds up to a centimetre.

0:35:490:35:52

But then it's not a linear increase.

0:35:520:35:55

By the end of the century,

0:35:550:35:57

this should produce a global sea level rise

0:35:570:36:00

between one and two metres.

0:36:000:36:03

Sea level rise is something, which I think

0:36:030:36:06

is...frightening lots of people.

0:36:060:36:08

It could have a massive effect on the way that we live on this planet.

0:36:080:36:12

Yeah, that's a colossal problem

0:36:120:36:15

for hundreds of large cities around the world.

0:36:150:36:18

Climate change is likely to accelerate the mechanisms

0:36:210:36:24

the team has witnessed at Store.

0:36:240:36:27

So far, they've seen how melt water lubricates

0:36:310:36:33

the base of the glacier, speeding it towards the sea.

0:36:330:36:37

And they've also revealed how the sea weakens

0:36:390:36:41

the bottom of the glacier front.

0:36:410:36:43

ALL: Cheers! Kasuutta!

0:36:450:36:48

-ALUN:

-Iechyd da!

0:36:480:36:49

Together, it solves the mystery of how Store,

0:36:490:36:52

and glaciers like it, create icebergs.

0:36:520:36:56

But if the team think they've now cracked all the forces at play,

0:37:000:37:04

they're in for a shock.

0:37:040:37:06

Can we get this stuff out of the water?

0:37:140:37:16

I'm sorry, I want to get out of here.

0:37:160:37:18

Wow! Look at that!

0:37:230:37:25

A wall of ice is splitting from the glacier.

0:37:250:37:28

Compared to anything the team has seen so far, this is vast.

0:37:280:37:34

It's made a new embayment in one go.

0:37:350:37:38

That is a major calving event.

0:37:380:37:40

What are we doing, Nolwenn, are we out of here?

0:37:400:37:42

Yeah, yeah, we're escaping.

0:37:420:37:45

Look at the wave! Look at the wave!

0:37:450:37:47

Look at the wave!

0:37:470:37:49

It's a ten-metre wave.

0:37:490:37:51

Is that going to be a monster?

0:37:510:37:53

It looks big. It was massive on the front.

0:37:530:37:55

It hasn't reached us yet, but it looks really big.

0:37:550:37:58

Up at base camp, the rest of the team look on anxiously.

0:38:010:38:04

The Gambo - where is the Gambo?

0:38:040:38:06

They're right down there, next to it.

0:38:060:38:09

She was on this side of the fjord.

0:38:090:38:11

I think they're down here.

0:38:110:38:13

Which way are these big ones?

0:38:130:38:16

It's the calving...of a mega-berg.

0:38:180:38:21

That is absolutely enormous.

0:38:220:38:25

140 million tonnes of ice,

0:38:250:38:28

travelling so fast it could outrun the Gambo.

0:38:280:38:32

It's a huge surge of water,

0:38:330:38:36

a massive wave that rose up the side of the front of the glacier,

0:38:360:38:40

and, quite clearly, is going to slowly spread out towards us here.

0:38:400:38:45

Major event, Alun?

0:38:450:38:47

If we'd been there, Nolwenn, we'd have been wiped out.

0:38:480:38:51

-I don't want to think about it!

-We'd have been wiped out, man.

0:38:510:38:54

Yeah, we would have been wiped out.

0:38:540:38:57

It's calving on a scale far bigger than the team has yet witnessed.

0:38:570:39:01

The forces they've seen so far don't explain these mega-bergs.

0:39:040:39:08

To understand them, they'll need a new theory.

0:39:080:39:13

Those are the lumps of ice, which break off the front intact

0:39:130:39:18

and drift out to sea as huge icebergs.

0:39:180:39:22

There's another mechanism helping those icebergs calve,

0:39:220:39:26

and I want to find out what it is.

0:39:260:39:28

The team's focus returns to the upper glacier.

0:39:330:39:36

They know melt water from here lubricates the base of the glacier.

0:39:360:39:40

But could some water also be helping create the mega-bergs?

0:39:420:39:46

I'm a little bit sceptical that all the water can get

0:39:480:39:51

all the way from the surface all the way down to the bottom.

0:39:510:39:55

Michele wants to explore the many holes that riddle the glacier.

0:39:570:40:01

Melt water from a blue lake once ran down this one.

0:40:020:40:06

It's called a moulin.

0:40:060:40:07

Moulin is a grinder in French,

0:40:090:40:11

so think of the water grinding its way through the ice down to the bed.

0:40:110:40:16

So these are like big drainpipes going down

0:40:160:40:18

-and the question is how far down they go?

-Exactly.

0:40:180:40:21

Andy is going to climb down into the heart of the glacier.

0:40:210:40:26

Andy's very excited about this.

0:40:260:40:28

I think that a lot of people would say he's brave.

0:40:280:40:31

I think he might be being a bit foolish.

0:40:310:40:32

It's very dangerous, I think.

0:40:320:40:34

How far do you think you'll be able to get into this?

0:40:340:40:37

I have no idea where it stops.

0:40:370:40:39

What would be great to find out from you, Andy,

0:40:390:40:42

is as you go down, what do you see?

0:40:420:40:44

The moulin's big and - at the moment - dry,

0:40:460:40:51

giving Andy the best chance of exploring.

0:40:510:40:54

But the glacier is constantly moving.

0:40:580:41:01

There was a big rumble just then.

0:41:040:41:07

All the walls are pretty unstable,

0:41:070:41:08

with all these big icicles and big, like, snowflakes,

0:41:080:41:11

so the quicker we get down and out the better.

0:41:110:41:13

As team medic, Dr Chris is nervous.

0:41:160:41:19

I feel fairly redundant,

0:41:190:41:21

because of all the things that can happen to him,

0:41:210:41:24

there are very few I'm going to be able to fix.

0:41:240:41:26

We know very little about what happens to water below the surface.

0:41:280:41:32

I mean, we know more about what's going on

0:41:320:41:35

on the surface of the moon than what happens inside the ice.

0:41:350:41:39

You can see the floor beneath me.

0:41:470:41:50

There's these huge blocks of ice.

0:41:520:41:54

Things as big as cars are lying down there,

0:41:540:41:57

and they weigh tonnes, and they've all peeled off from up above me.

0:41:570:42:01

So if that was to happen while I was hanging here, that'd be it.

0:42:010:42:05

Woah!

0:42:100:42:11

There's a massive, absolutely enormous side passage.

0:42:110:42:17

You could drive a double-decker bus,

0:42:190:42:21

with another double-decker bus on top of it,

0:42:210:42:24

and it would still fit through there quite easily.

0:42:240:42:26

It's a remarkable discovery, on a massive scale.

0:42:280:42:32

When this tunnel was active,

0:42:330:42:35

it would've channelled vast amounts of water.

0:42:350:42:39

Not downwards, but sideways.

0:42:390:42:42

And there's been no-one down here before us and the chances are

0:42:420:42:46

there'll never be anyone down here again.

0:42:460:42:48

This is proper exploration.

0:42:480:42:49

This is all completely virgin territory.

0:42:490:42:51

And this...

0:42:510:42:52

This is the crowning glory,

0:42:520:42:55

this immense cathedral-like tunnel.

0:42:550:42:59

The team lowers a camera crew down to explore.

0:43:030:43:07

But just as they're preparing to enter the tunnel...

0:43:070:43:11

CRACKING

0:43:110:43:12

-I think we should get out.

-Yeah.

0:43:150:43:18

OK. We've got to get out of here. That stuff up top is not good.

0:43:180:43:21

CRACKING

0:43:210:43:23

The tunnel roof has started to crack.

0:43:230:43:25

If it collapsed, it could bury the team.

0:43:250:43:29

Glad to be out of there.

0:43:470:43:48

It was huge, absolutely massive.

0:43:480:43:51

And we got out, which is even better!

0:43:510:43:53

Which is always nice.

0:43:530:43:54

Having said that, the footage is still at the bottom of the hole. Will I get it out?

0:43:540:43:58

Yeah, the camera is yet to be lifted up.

0:43:580:44:01

So let's not celebrate too soon!

0:44:010:44:03

While some melt water flows to the bottom of the glacier,

0:44:090:44:12

other water appears to take an alternative route.

0:44:120:44:16

The glacier has a hidden plumbing system,

0:44:210:44:25

a vast network of tunnels

0:44:250:44:26

carrying melt water through the ice, horizontally.

0:44:260:44:30

Now that we've seen this moulin,

0:44:320:44:33

we've seen that it's not a simple picture.

0:44:330:44:36

It's not straight down the plughole to the bottom.

0:44:360:44:39

It's much more complex.

0:44:390:44:40

Water goes down a little way and then maybe it goes sideways,

0:44:400:44:43

and then maybe it falls down a bit more.

0:44:430:44:45

Eventually, all going towards the sea,

0:44:450:44:48

but getting there by a huge variety of different routes.

0:44:480:44:52

The team wonders if these side channels

0:44:550:44:58

could be linked to the creation of mega-bergs.

0:44:580:45:00

While the science team devise their next experiment,

0:45:100:45:14

Chris is making friends with a local.

0:45:140:45:17

This little arctic fox has been coming in to our camp

0:45:190:45:23

almost every day, on the scrounge for food, of course.

0:45:230:45:27

But then things aren't easy up here, there's not a lot of food about.

0:45:270:45:31

They feed on young birds they find them in their nest.

0:45:310:45:33

Ptarmigan, hare - that'd be a pretty special day,

0:45:330:45:37

but I'm just tempting him in with some of this pasta.

0:45:370:45:41

I have to say, a lot of people haven't taken a shine to the fox.

0:45:410:45:44

They come up with these stories about them

0:45:440:45:46

breaking into the tents, chewing all the cables.

0:45:460:45:49

I can't see it myself.

0:45:490:45:50

In the winter, he'd be bright white,

0:45:520:45:54

and they have an amazing winter coat,

0:45:540:45:57

cos they are a bit different than our foxes.

0:45:570:45:59

Much smaller of course, blunter nose, smaller ears, shorter legs.

0:45:590:46:04

That's all about conserving heat when it's cold here.

0:46:040:46:09

(Oi!)

0:46:100:46:11

You're going to get me into trouble.

0:46:130:46:15

I'm going to get told off for encouraging you into the camp.

0:46:150:46:18

I don't care, though.

0:46:180:46:19

I'd rather have the fox than the food.

0:46:190:46:22

Back on the upper glacier,

0:46:280:46:30

the team has cooked up an ambitious experiment.

0:46:300:46:33

They want to try to trace the route of melt water

0:46:330:46:36

through the horizontal tunnels and out the glacier front.

0:46:360:46:40

We've found a moulin that's about 8km up from the ice front,

0:46:410:46:46

and it looks like the water that's flowing down into this moulin

0:46:460:46:50

is making a direct connection down to the north side of the ice front.

0:46:500:46:54

They're going to throw 30 plastic balls,

0:46:560:46:59

called cryospheres, into a moulin.

0:46:590:47:02

They may look home-made,

0:47:020:47:04

but they're packed with sophisticated electronics.

0:47:040:47:07

It looks reasonably likely that the water flowing past us here

0:47:080:47:12

will, at some point, flow out of the glacier front

0:47:120:47:14

that we've been watching for the past week or so.

0:47:140:47:17

Exactly. It's the "at some point" that is the big question.

0:47:170:47:20

-So if we can find these at the other end...

-Big if!

0:47:200:47:23

-..lots of useful information is going to come out of them.

-Yeah.

0:47:230:47:26

That's it. Looking good!

0:47:260:47:28

If the team's lucky,

0:47:280:47:29

some cryospheres may travel from this moulin

0:47:290:47:32

all the way to the glacier front,

0:47:320:47:35

without getting stuck inside the ice.

0:47:350:47:37

Michele, number 19 is going at 5.56.

0:47:370:47:42

The cryospheres will measure the speed and pressure of the water...

0:47:490:47:53

-Off it goes.

-..and, crucially, reveal where the tunnels come out.

0:47:530:47:56

Woo-hoo!

0:47:580:47:59

You know, glaciology is an experimental science.

0:48:000:48:03

We've gotta try new stuff.

0:48:030:48:05

That's why I've got one left and I'm going to wish it...

0:48:050:48:09

..happy returns.

0:48:110:48:12

Mwah!

0:48:120:48:14

Electronics expert Mark Neal designed the cryospheres.

0:48:210:48:25

He'll stake out the fjord from a mountain top.

0:48:270:48:31

Meanwhile, Chris, back on the Gambo, also has his eyes peeled.

0:48:360:48:41

The terms wild, goose and chase, and needle, haystack come to mind.

0:48:440:48:49

What's we're looking for is about, you know, 30 ping pong-size balls

0:48:490:48:54

in amongst all of this ice bobbing on the surface.

0:48:540:48:57

I mean, I've spent some crazy evenings in my life

0:48:570:49:00

but this adds up to another one of them, you know.

0:49:000:49:04

Chris is relying on his bird-spotter's training.

0:49:040:49:07

But Mark takes a hi-tech approach.

0:49:070:49:10

We should have the image from the telescope on the screen here,

0:49:100:49:13

and then I can activate my filtering software

0:49:130:49:15

which will tell us if we can see any orange dots.

0:49:150:49:18

-Hello.

-Just have a look up the mast for you.

0:49:230:49:25

Well, good luck. My eyes are bleeding down here,

0:49:250:49:28

and I'm prepared to offer you a South American country,

0:49:280:49:31

a front-engine racing Ferrari,

0:49:310:49:33

and a night with a supermodel of your choice,

0:49:330:49:35

if you spot one of these balls.

0:49:350:49:37

That's generous of you.

0:49:370:49:39

It's a generous offer but I'm confident that I won't be exposed.

0:49:390:49:42

Mark is also finding it tricky.

0:49:460:49:49

No sign of any orange things.

0:49:500:49:52

If they've come out or if they are going to come out,

0:49:520:49:55

they probably have come out by now.

0:49:550:49:56

I'm not going to tell you how many hours we've been out here now,

0:49:590:50:02

looking for these tiny orange ping pong balls,

0:50:020:50:05

which are packed full of this...scientific paraphernalia,

0:50:050:50:09

but we haven't found them.

0:50:090:50:11

The experiment has been less than successful.

0:50:120:50:15

But, during the search, Chris spotted something which

0:50:180:50:20

might give a clue about the route of melt water to the ice front.

0:50:200:50:24

This body of water here is very different than everywhere else.

0:50:240:50:28

There's brash ice everywhere and yet this is open, it's turbid,

0:50:280:50:31

and parts of it are boiling.

0:50:310:50:33

Well, not boiling, but there's a lot of Jacuzzi action.

0:50:330:50:37

Jacuzzi action! That's a pretty cool word for it.

0:50:370:50:39

The upwelling plumes - these Jacuzzis - I suspect,

0:50:390:50:43

are absolutely fundamental to the processes going on at the ice front.

0:50:430:50:47

The team wonders whether the Jacuzzis could have

0:50:510:50:55

anything to do with the hidden tunnels within the glacier.

0:50:550:50:58

To find out, they've flown in a secret weapon -

0:51:020:51:05

imaging expert Richard Bates.

0:51:050:51:08

He's turning the entire underwater scan into a 3D world.

0:51:100:51:14

Richard, what have we got, then?

0:51:140:51:15

This is the side-scanning sonar results,

0:51:150:51:19

but you've transformed them with some software in to something?

0:51:190:51:23

Yeah, that's right. If I put that into 3D, you can start to see now.

0:51:230:51:26

Ooh! So that's just the sea floor, no ice?

0:51:260:51:28

-That's just the sea floor we're looking at here.

-Right, OK.

0:51:280:51:31

We can put the ice back into that and there you can see the ice

0:51:310:51:34

stretching from the north side to the south side of the glacier.

0:51:340:51:38

Look at that!

0:51:380:51:40

But then round the corner, into that embayment - huge cave.

0:51:400:51:44

And this on the south side, here -

0:51:440:51:46

that's where the plume's coming from.

0:51:460:51:48

Exactly. These places match where all that water's coming out.

0:51:480:51:53

Seen for the first time, they're the mouths of the horizontal tunnels,

0:51:540:52:00

spewing out millions of litres of fresh melt water into the sea.

0:52:000:52:05

These are the source of the Jacuzzis.

0:52:050:52:08

Most tunnels are at the base of the ice,

0:52:080:52:11

but not all.

0:52:110:52:13

Is that a cave in the face of the glacier, then?

0:52:140:52:17

Yes, it is a hole or a cave,

0:52:170:52:19

or at least a heavily fractured zone in there.

0:52:190:52:23

That's coming out within the face and that's something very new.

0:52:230:52:26

What an astonishing view!

0:52:260:52:29

It's lovely, isn't it?

0:52:290:52:30

You can really visualise the fact that

0:52:300:52:33

this glacier front is not just a big flat wall.

0:52:330:52:36

-This is the best data we've got.

-Is this the money shot?

0:52:360:52:39

This, for me, is it.

0:52:390:52:41

Our time on the Gambo has been very well spent.

0:52:410:52:44

Look at that!

0:52:440:52:46

But it's the effect of the plumes that most intrigues Alun.

0:52:480:52:52

He believes they melt the glacier front at particular locations,

0:52:520:52:56

forming a series of deep bays,

0:52:560:52:58

with powerful consequences.

0:53:000:53:02

What we're seeing is the embayments are generally cutting back.

0:53:040:53:10

That's leaving these very exposed promontories,

0:53:100:53:13

these massive headlands, with towering ice above the water line.

0:53:130:53:17

They're 100, 120 metres high in places,

0:53:170:53:20

and that's where we're getting the really big mega-bergs forming.

0:53:200:53:24

For the team, it means all the pieces have finally come together.

0:53:280:53:33

We've seen that huge amounts of melt water are produced at the surface,

0:53:330:53:38

and they percolate down into the ice through moulins and crevasses,

0:53:380:53:43

and one theory was that all of that water

0:53:430:53:45

flowed down to the bedrock and underneath the ice,

0:53:450:53:48

lubricating the movement of the glacier as it surges forward.

0:53:480:53:52

But we've also seen that there's a new theory that water could be

0:53:530:53:57

taking a different route, through a small number of huge tunnels,

0:53:570:54:01

and that helps melt away the ice where the tunnels are formed,

0:54:010:54:05

and so we get these bays,

0:54:050:54:07

and in between the bays there are headlands,

0:54:070:54:11

and those seem to be the bits that break off intact,

0:54:110:54:14

and that form the huge lumps of ice

0:54:140:54:17

that carry on out to the open ocean as icebergs.

0:54:170:54:22

The team's packing up.

0:54:250:54:28

I believe I've got a cake!

0:54:300:54:32

They're leaving the glacier that's been part of their lives for three weeks.

0:54:340:54:39

It has started to feel like home,

0:54:390:54:40

although I'm definitely ready for a shower!

0:54:400:54:43

But Store has one last surprise for Operation Iceberg -

0:54:460:54:50

the culmination of everything they've discovered.

0:54:500:54:53

Wow!

0:54:540:54:56

HE LAUGHS

0:54:560:54:57

-Oh, wow, look!

-Wow!

0:54:580:55:01

That is massive.

0:55:010:55:03

Just as Alun predicted, an entire headland is collapsing.

0:55:030:55:07

It's the biggest and most violent calving they've seen.

0:55:110:55:14

Just phenomenal!

0:55:170:55:19

The mega-berg to end all mega-bergs.

0:55:190:55:23

That iceberg is a kilometre across.

0:55:360:55:38

We talk about glaciers as like a metaphor for slowness and tedium,

0:55:450:55:49

but this thing's completely alive.

0:55:490:55:51

There's a wave of kind of fractures going along the top end of it,

0:55:530:55:56

so all the stuff that was the cliff is now just crumbling.

0:55:560:56:01

And that's the first time the water in that

0:56:020:56:05

has seen the light of day for thousands of years.

0:56:050:56:08

It's great!

0:56:240:56:25

You know how we're all kids at heart and love a really good car crash?

0:56:250:56:30

Well, that was a really, really good car crash.

0:56:300:56:35

That's one of the biggest bits of natural destruction

0:56:360:56:39

I've ever seen in my life. It was fantastic!

0:56:390:56:42

But from this destruction, a new iceberg is born.

0:56:520:56:56

And what's more,

0:56:570:56:58

the team has come to understand the forces that led to this moment.

0:56:580:57:04

And now that I've seen all of what's going on to produce just one iceberg,

0:57:040:57:08

all of the things that happen behind the scenes, if you like,

0:57:080:57:12

watching an iceberg calve is a much richer event.

0:57:120:57:16

We've been trying to measure these things in St Paul's cathedrals,

0:57:180:57:21

but I wouldn't know where to start.

0:57:210:57:23

I wonder where that iceberg will end up.

0:57:250:57:27

Where's it going to drift to? Where's it going to finally melt?

0:57:270:57:30

Where's it going to be when the last little piece,

0:57:300:57:33

the size of a golf ball, melts and becomes part of the ocean?

0:57:330:57:37

Makes you wonder, doesn't it?

0:57:390:57:41

Next on Operation Iceberg,

0:57:460:57:48

the team is on the hunt for one of the largest icebergs in the whole Arctic.

0:57:480:57:52

-Happy?

-Yep. Let's go!

0:57:530:57:55

They've seen how an iceberg is born.

0:57:550:57:57

Now they hope to follow its life - and death - out at sea.

0:57:570:58:01

But to succeed, they'll need to confront the Arctic's most dangerous predator.

0:58:050:58:10

It's all my Christmases come at once!

0:58:100:58:12

I really, really hoped to see one but I never thought that we would.

0:58:120:58:16

And it's a world where the ice beneath them

0:58:160:58:18

can collapse at any time.

0:58:180:58:20

This is a new crack forming. This whole bit's coming off.

0:58:200:58:24

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0:58:470:58:50

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