Pennod 6 Straeon y Ffin


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Transcript


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-Boundaries are there to be pushed.

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-I'm Gareth Potter,

-a DJ and actor by profession.

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-My parents didn't speak Welsh.

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-I've always been aware

-of linguistic boundaries.

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-This series is about

-a real, geographical boundary.

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-I want to understand the

-borderlands' history and culture...

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-..and meet the people who live here.

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-Does living on a border

-create its own unique identity?

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-Come with me

-on a journey to find out.

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-My journey along

-the Wales-England is almost over.

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-I've reached Monmouthshire.

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-The county was created in 1535.

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-There has been

-confusion over the years.

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-Did it belong to Wales or England?

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-We'll find out later.

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-This week, we start in an orchard

-between Newcastle and Skenfrith.

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-The area is well-known now

-for wine and cider.

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-I've come to meet

-David Hughes Jones.

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-There are many

-producers in this area.

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-Yes, many farms

-grow apples in their orchards.

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-They press the apples in autumn...

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-..and make cider with the juice...

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-..so they can drink it

-socially all year.

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-People also compete in festivals,

-to see who makes the best cider.

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-There's a lot of competition

-to make the best cider.

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-There are small village shows

-and cider festivals in pubs.

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-Is there a tradition

-of cider making in Wales?

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-Yes, indeed.

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-Many people this side

-of the border make their own cider.

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-Their cider is the best,

-or so they say!

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-Of course!

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-What are the trees in this orchard?

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-Apple trees,

-for making sweet cider.

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-The farm has diversified.

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-They're grown on a big scale.

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-So this is the farm's main crop.

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-Yes. There aren't many animals

-grazing between the trees.

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-The farm grows apples.

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-They take care of the trees

-to get a good crop next year.

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-I must admit, I'm a cider fan.

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-All this talk has

-made my mouth water.

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-It's high time to taste a few.

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-What would you like first?

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-I've heard that

-the best way to drink cider...

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-..is to start with dryer cider,

-then a sweeter one.

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-You're more experienced than me!

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-Off you go.

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-Shall we start with this medium dry?

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-Great.

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-Mm.

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-Mm.

-

-Very nice.

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-You don't come from this area.

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-No.

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-I've lived here about 40 years.

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-But I'm a Cardiganshire man,

-from Penrhyn-Coch near Aberystwyth.

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-I went to school there, then Ardwyn

-Grammar School in Aberystwyth.

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-After going to Cardiff University,

-I found a job in Monmouth.

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-I've been here since 1976.

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-So the job brought you here.

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-What kept you here?

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-I married a local girl.

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-She comes from the area.

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-The rest is history, as they say.

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-Our two children

-attended Welsh-medium schools.

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-Our grandchildren

-go to Abergavenny Welsh School.

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-Let's taste a sweeter cider.

-This is medium.

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-Gareth, I'm happy to comply.

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-Great.

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-That's a fine colour.

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-That's a nice sound.

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-The Vilberie apples in the dry cider

-come from Brittany originally.

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-The Dabinett apples

-in the sweeter cider...

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-..were found by William Dabinett

-growing wild in a Somerset hedge.

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-Do you want to taste another one?

-There are three here.

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-What is this one?

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-What is this one?

-

-Naughty Horsey.

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-Right.

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-This one is less bubbly.

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-This one is less bubbly.

-

-OK.

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-Cheers.

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-Cheers.

-

-Cheers again.

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-You've moved here.

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-What is the main difference between

-the west and the borderlands?

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-In this area, the border

-is something on paper.

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-We're not aware of a border with

-England, about 50 yards from here.

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-There are place names like Llangrove

-and Llangarron in England...

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-..and English names

-on the Welsh side of the border.

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-We remember the border

-when we go to England.

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-We fill our lungs with Welsh air.

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-We're happy to breathe

-Welsh air when we return.

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-We know it's there, but

-don't think about it every day.

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-It's something on paper.

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-Let's drink a toast

-to the borderlands.

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-Right.

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-Yes.

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-Ah.

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-I could stay here all night.

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-Fantastic.

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-I leave my bike for a while...

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-..and continue my journey

-to Monmouth on the River Wye.

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-It's the fifth longest

-river in Britain...

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-..coming all the way from

-the slopes of Pumlumon in Mid Wales.

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-The salmon in the river

-can grow to more than 50 pounds...

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-..and almost half

-the size of this canoe.

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-Thanks. That was fantastic!

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-Let's see

-what Monmouth has to offer.

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-The bridge in Monmouth

-is the only one in Britain...

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-..with a tower to protect

-the town from the enemy outside.

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-Several famous people

-have links with the town.

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-King Henry V of England

-was born here.

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-This sculpture is Charles Rolls,

-son of the local Baron Llangattock.

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-Rolls was the first to fly to France

-and back without stopping in 1910.

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-But he's better known...

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-..for establishing one of the most

-famous car companies in the world...

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-..Rolls-Royce.

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-I really like this busy town.

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-The narrow streets hide

-unusual treasures...

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-..like this remarkable

-theatre, the Savoy.

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-"To be, or not to be

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-"That is the question"

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-This is the oldest theatre site

-in Wales still staging performances.

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-Before leaving Monmouth,

-I talk to historian Dr Elin Jones.

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-She's my former teacher and an

-amazing ambassador for this area.

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-Near The Kymin's round tower

-is a perfect place to meet her.

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-It was built by the gentlemen

-of the Monmouth Picnic Club in 1794.

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-It's right on the Offa's Dyke Path.

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-Can you tell us a little...

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-..about the importance

-of Monmouth and Monmouthshire?

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-Is it part of England or Wales?

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-Don't you suggest to me, Gareth

-Potter, that it's part of England!

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-CHUCKLES

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-This has always been part of Wales.

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-Parts of England were in Wales too.

-But this is Wales.

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-Why do you think it's in England?

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-As a child, I had a map,

-titled Wales And Monmouthshire.

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-Right. That's very misleading.

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-That's because of the legal system

-introduced in the Acts Of Union.

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-There were 13 counties in Wales.

-It's very hard to divide 13 by four.

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-Monmouthshire was left out.

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-It had to join

-an English legal circuit.

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-That's the only reason.

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-That fitted into

-a historical pattern.

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-When William The Conqueror

-arrived in 1066...

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-..he occupied all

-of England in a few years.

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-Then he sent his most trusted lords

-to defend the border with Wales...

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-..that hadn't been conquered.

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-The Normans occupied this area

-soon after the Norman conquest.

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-You can see why.

-Look at the landscape.

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-There are no hills here,

-unlike North Wales...

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-..and no geographical obstacle

-for conquerors from the east.

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-Since when have people

-lived in this area?

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-Good grief, since the beginning!

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-Since the end of the Ice Age.

-There is no evidence before that.

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-But 10,000 years ago,

-when the sea level rose again...

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-..we know people lived here.

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-There's plenty

-of archaeological evidence.

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-The most striking evidence...

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-..is footprints found

-in the River Severn's mud.

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-Two adults and a child

-walked in the mud.

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-Their footprints were fossilized.

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-Now, they're in the National

-Museum Of Wales in Cardiff.

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-The Chartists came here too.

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-The Chartists came here too.

-

-Yes, they came here in chains.

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-Chartists in the industrial

-valleys wanted the right to vote...

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-..and human rights

-we take for granted.

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-In 1839, they marched on Newport.

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-They were shot down in front of the

-Westgate Hotel. Many were killed.

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-They were buried at night,

-in St Woolos graveyard.

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-The leaders were brought here...

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-..to the Shire Hall

-in Monmouth, in chains...

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-..and sentenced

-to that horrific death...

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-..of being hanged, quartered...

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-..and disembowelled,

-in front of their own eyes.

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-That was the last time...

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-..that terrible sentence

-was pronounced in Britain...

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-..here, in Monmouth Shire Hall.

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-But a decision was made

-not to execute them.

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-They were exiled

-for life to Australia.

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-One of them,

-John Frost, the leader...

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-..came back to Newport,

-his home town.

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-Monmouth doesn't seem

-to be a Welsh town at all.

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-Does the Welsh language

-have a history in this area?

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-It does.

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-Place names show that Welsh

-was spoken here for centuries...

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-..long before they spoke

-English or Norman French.

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-But because it was

-conquered so early...

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-..it was very easy

-to turn to English.

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-The English occupiers

-were in positions of authority.

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-But in the rural areas...

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-..they spoke Welsh and upheld

-the old Welsh laws and traditions.

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-There was a huge forest in Gwent.

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-It was held by Welsh speakers

-for many centuries.

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-Now, Welsh is heard

-in Welsh-medium schools...

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-..in the old Monmouthshire...

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-..and the Welsh schools in Newport,

-the most anglicized area.

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-It's a kind of rearguard action.

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-Efforts are being made now

-to open Welsh schools...

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-..and raise Welsh speakers

-in towns, not the countryside.

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-Later, my journey down

-the border ends in Chepstow.

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-I share one of the unique

-celebrations of the border people.

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-.

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-Subtitles

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-Subtitles

-

-Subtitles

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-Well,

-I'm nearing the end of my journey.

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-Before I reach Chepstow

-and the South Wales coast...

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-..I stop in Tintern Abbey.

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-The abbey was established

-on the River Wye in 1131.

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-It fell into ruin when Henry VIII

-disbanded the monasteries.

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-In the late 18th century...

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-..it became popular with bards,

-for instance William Wordsworth...

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-..and artists like JMW Turner.

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-It still attracts visitors today.

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-The beat poet, Allen Ginsberg,

-visited in 1967.

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-He wrote about the experience.

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-Iron Maiden

-made a video here in 1988.

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-After 150 miles...

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-..the last leg of my journey

-along the Wales-England border...

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-..takes me

-from Tintern Abbey to Chepstow.

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-This is the end of the path.

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-The river is the border

-between the two countries.

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-The town grew around

-this splendid castle on a cliff.

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-To learn more about Chepstow...

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-..I met up with Dr Glyn Jones, who

-is an expert on this ancient town.

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-Dr Glyn,

-you've bought me to the garden.

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-I can see a massive castle!

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-The castle gives the town its name.

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-The castle gives the town its name.

-

-Yes, this is Chepstow Castle.

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-The Welsh name comes

-from Castle Of Gwent.

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-It's said Chepstow was named

-after "ceap" and "stowe"...

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-..meaning market place.

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-That takes us right back.

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-The Normans started to build

-the stone castle in 1067...

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-..a year after the Norman Conquest.

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-This is the oldest stone castle

-in the country...

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-..and it's in the garden!

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-Fantastic.

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-The country's largest port

-was just around the corner.

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-They built ships.

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-All sorts of industry

-took place there on the River Wye.

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-The river was important

-to transport limestone...

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-..to Avonmouth Docks...

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-..on the River Severn.

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-What sort of town is Chepstow?

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-How does it feel to live here?

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-All I can say is, with this view...

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-..living here

-is a happy experience...

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-..for my wife and I.

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-It's a lovely, pretty place to live.

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-There's a close-knit community.

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-The best thing about Chepstow...

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-..is that it's quiet.

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-People commute from here.

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-TRADITIONAL MUSIC

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-There was nothing quiet

-about Chepstow when I was there...

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-..as I noticed

-on my way to Dr Glyn's home.

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-What is the ceremony

-we're going to see later?

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-It's a celebration

-of the old Welsh Halloween.

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-All the Mari Lwyds

-will be together...

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-..with their teeth clattering.

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-We're on the border...

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-..and we'll meet wassailers...

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-..from Gloucester in England.

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-They meet on the bridge.

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-The England-Wales border...

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-..is on the middle of the bridge.

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-The wassailers come...

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-..to bless the next crop of apples.

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-Wassail!

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-In Old English,

-wassail means "be well".

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-That's how wassailers

-greet the apple trees...

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-..so they grow next year.

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-They pour cider over the roots...

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-..and hang toast soaked in cider

-on the branches.

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-TRADITIONAL WASSAIL SONG

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-The next stage of the ceremony

-doesn't happen until nightfall.

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-I seized the chance

-to meet Ifor Cavill.

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-He is proud of his connection

-to the town.

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-I'm a resident of Chepstow.

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-I was born and bred in the area.

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-I live here, too,

-as did my father before me.

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-He wasn't brought up speaking Welsh.

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-He wasn't even sure

-if he lived in Wales.

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-A long time ago,

-my great aunt gave me a book...

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-..A Book Of Wales.

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-I saw a photo of Monmouth.

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-That's the bridge.

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-Was Monmouth in Wales, I thought?

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-Suddenly, I realized

-that I lived in Wales.

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-I decided to learn more.

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-Unfortunately, there was no Welsh

-in Monmouth School For Boys.

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-There was no Welsh at all.

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-They were totally against it.

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-So I rebelled against the system.

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-I started to spell my name

-with an "F".

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-It's a challenge

-to defend the language in Chepstow.

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-On this map,

-every main town and city...

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-..are named in Welsh and English.

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-Newport - Casnewydd.

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-Newport - Casnewydd.

-

-Monmouth - Trefynwy...

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-..and so on...

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-..apart from Chepstow.

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-..apart from Chepstow.

-

-Right.

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-Cas-gwent isn't on the map.

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-I complained to the government.

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-I phoned them.

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-They said, "Is Chepstow in Wales?"

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-It's a true story,

-but with a happy ending.

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-In 2003...

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-..Cas-gwent appeared.

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-Thanks to me!

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-That's excellent.

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-Thank you!

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-CHEERS

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-I left Ifor, the man

-who put Cas-gwent on the map...

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-..to rejoin the festivities

-and learn more about Mari Lwyd.

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-Hey, Mari Lwyd, how are you?

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-Hey, Mari Lwyd, how are you?

-

-Very well, thanks.

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-The Mari Lwyd custom

-almost died out 50 years ago.

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-It's gaining popularity nowadays.

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-Dr Glyn wanted me

-to hear the traditional song...

0:20:540:20:58

-..that's sung

-before the Mari Lwyd moves on.

0:20:590:21:02

-Can you sing for us, please,

-so Gareth can learn it?

0:21:030:21:07

-# Here we come, gentle friends

0:21:070:21:11

-# Here we come, gentle friends

0:21:110:21:15

-# To ask may we have leave

0:21:160:21:18

-# To ask may we have leave

0:21:180:21:20

-# To ask may we have leave to sing #

0:21:200:21:24

-Fantastic!

0:21:240:21:26

-I feel a part

-of an important Welsh tradition.

0:21:270:21:31

-Thank you very much!

0:21:320:21:35

-I love your beard. Brilliant!

0:21:350:21:38

-The highlight of the day

-was at night...

0:21:450:21:49

-..the meeting on the bridge

-on the Wales-England border.

0:21:490:21:54

-What better way to end my journey

-along the border...

0:21:550:21:59

-..than at an event

-where the Welsh and English...

0:21:590:22:03

-..literally come together?

0:22:030:22:06

-What has my journey taught me

-about the people of the borderlands?

0:22:060:22:11

-On rugby or football days...

0:22:110:22:14

-..the difference

-between the two countries...

0:22:140:22:18

-..is enthusiastically celebrated.

0:22:180:22:21

-But as we see on Chepstow bridge...

0:22:220:22:25

-..there is a joint celebration, too.

0:22:260:22:28

-The border can unite people

-as well as divide them.

0:22:290:22:33

-If we can respect our differences...

0:22:340:22:36

-..what better reason could there be

-for celebrating together?

0:22:370:22:41

-S4C Subtitles by Gwead

0:22:570:22:59

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0:22:590:22:59

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