Browse content similar to Scarborough. Check below for episodes and series from the same categories and more!
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I've seen towns explode into cities. | 0:00:04 | 0:00:08 | |
I've seen towns with their hearts ripped out. | 0:00:08 | 0:00:11 | |
Every town has its own tales of triumph and catastrophe. | 0:00:11 | 0:00:15 | |
All of them face challenges. | 0:00:15 | 0:00:18 | |
As a geographer, | 0:00:18 | 0:00:19 | |
I believe that towns are the communities of the future. | 0:00:19 | 0:00:23 | |
Towns will be the places we want to live. | 0:00:23 | 0:00:26 | |
By 2030, a staggering 92% of us will be living the urban life. | 0:00:27 | 0:00:32 | |
Congested cities sprawl across our map, | 0:00:32 | 0:00:36 | |
but cities don't have all the answers. | 0:00:36 | 0:00:40 | |
I believe we need to fall back in love | 0:00:40 | 0:00:42 | |
with the places that first quickened our pulses. | 0:00:42 | 0:00:46 | |
Towns. | 0:00:46 | 0:00:47 | |
Smaller than a city, more intimate, much greener, more surprising. | 0:00:51 | 0:00:55 | |
Towns are where we learned to be urban. | 0:00:55 | 0:00:59 | |
They are the building blocks of our civilisation. | 0:01:00 | 0:01:03 | |
Coastal towns, | 0:01:03 | 0:01:05 | |
market towns, river towns, industrial towns. | 0:01:05 | 0:01:09 | |
Collectively, they bind our land together. | 0:01:09 | 0:01:13 | |
This is the story of towns, but it's also our story. | 0:01:13 | 0:01:18 | |
Where we came from. How we live. | 0:01:18 | 0:01:21 | |
And where we might be going. | 0:01:21 | 0:01:23 | |
This is Scarborough, | 0:01:24 | 0:01:27 | |
a Yorkshire coastal town with a history of boom and bust. | 0:01:27 | 0:01:31 | |
I want to find out what's happened to this town of 40,000 people | 0:01:32 | 0:01:36 | |
since its heyday as Britain's first seaside resort. | 0:01:36 | 0:01:40 | |
Whether our fondness for foreign holidays has left this port | 0:01:40 | 0:01:44 | |
high and dry. | 0:01:44 | 0:01:45 | |
How a town on the edge survives. | 0:01:47 | 0:01:50 | |
At eight in the morning of December 16th 1914, | 0:02:12 | 0:02:16 | |
Britain was attacked from the sea without warning. | 0:02:16 | 0:02:20 | |
EXPLOSION | 0:02:20 | 0:02:22 | |
Two German battle cruisers hurled 500 explosive shells | 0:02:22 | 0:02:25 | |
at a wakening seaside town. | 0:02:25 | 0:02:27 | |
18 people lost their lives. | 0:02:27 | 0:02:30 | |
It was the first time in over 100 years | 0:02:30 | 0:02:33 | |
that civilians had been killed by an enemy on British soil. | 0:02:33 | 0:02:37 | |
On that winter's day, | 0:02:37 | 0:02:39 | |
the town that suddenly found itself at war was Scarborough. | 0:02:39 | 0:02:42 | |
The shock of the German shelling reverberated around Britain. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:54 | |
This wasn't a major city, or a crucial naval base. | 0:02:54 | 0:02:58 | |
This was a peaceful British town with ordinary people going about their everyday lives. | 0:02:58 | 0:03:03 | |
After the attack, Scarborough, and Britain, had a choice - | 0:03:08 | 0:03:12 | |
take the blow or fight for the future. | 0:03:12 | 0:03:15 | |
"Remember Scarborough" became a rallying cry, | 0:03:17 | 0:03:20 | |
a call to arms to enlist in a war that was no longer distant. | 0:03:20 | 0:03:24 | |
It seems to me that many of our towns are facing | 0:03:31 | 0:03:34 | |
the same kind of choice now - | 0:03:34 | 0:03:37 | |
take the hit or come out fighting. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:39 | |
This is an era of extraordinary social and economic convulsion. | 0:03:39 | 0:03:44 | |
Our towns are on the front line of change. | 0:03:44 | 0:03:47 | |
They were created and developed for particular purposes - | 0:03:47 | 0:03:51 | |
trade, defence, industry. | 0:03:51 | 0:03:54 | |
But what happens when those traditional roles suddenly disappear? | 0:03:54 | 0:03:59 | |
Should towns like Scarborough accept defeat? | 0:03:59 | 0:04:02 | |
Or should we all enlist and fight for their future? | 0:04:02 | 0:04:06 | |
LOUD DRUMMING | 0:04:06 | 0:04:07 | |
Tonight they're launching a massive arts festival here in Scarborough. | 0:04:14 | 0:04:18 | |
It's February, it's freezing, | 0:04:20 | 0:04:22 | |
it seems like a mad idea. | 0:04:22 | 0:04:25 | |
But Scarborough does things differently. | 0:04:25 | 0:04:28 | |
Physically and creatively, it lives life on the edge. | 0:04:28 | 0:04:31 | |
CHEERING AND APPLAUSE | 0:04:33 | 0:04:35 | |
A town's place in the landscape | 0:04:42 | 0:04:45 | |
explains why people have settled there, | 0:04:45 | 0:04:48 | |
and to a large extent, it guides their destiny. | 0:04:48 | 0:04:51 | |
The geography of a town affects perceptions, attitudes, | 0:04:52 | 0:04:56 | |
and how its people live their lives. | 0:04:56 | 0:04:59 | |
Scarborough is arranged a bit like the stalls of a theatre, | 0:05:00 | 0:05:04 | |
in tiers above two bays, one to the north and one to the south. | 0:05:04 | 0:05:09 | |
Two scoops out of the coastline, | 0:05:09 | 0:05:11 | |
with a massive headland between them. | 0:05:11 | 0:05:13 | |
A Yorkshire Rock of Gibraltar crowned with a defiant castle. | 0:05:13 | 0:05:18 | |
This town sits right on the edge - on the edge of Yorkshire and the edge of England. | 0:05:18 | 0:05:25 | |
Poised between land and sea, | 0:05:25 | 0:05:27 | |
it's always been engaged in a struggle between prosperity and oblivion. | 0:05:27 | 0:05:32 | |
There are plenty of towns where you can drive for a couple of miles | 0:05:40 | 0:05:43 | |
from the centre in any direction and reach countryside. | 0:05:43 | 0:05:46 | |
Try that in Scarborough, and you'll drown. | 0:05:46 | 0:05:49 | |
Draw a circle around Scarborough and half of it is sea. | 0:05:49 | 0:05:52 | |
It's a town of two halves. | 0:05:52 | 0:05:55 | |
This half, the seaward side, | 0:05:55 | 0:05:56 | |
made Scarborough feel part of the wider world. | 0:05:56 | 0:05:59 | |
But this half, on the landward side, | 0:05:59 | 0:06:01 | |
made Scarborough feel at the END of the world. | 0:06:01 | 0:06:05 | |
Approach Scarborough from the land, and it's at the end of the road, | 0:06:05 | 0:06:08 | |
and at the end of the line. | 0:06:08 | 0:06:09 | |
These days, you could argue that Scarborough's out in the cold. | 0:06:09 | 0:06:14 | |
So how does a seaside town like Scarborough survive? | 0:06:15 | 0:06:20 | |
Is it about to slide into the depths or rise like a recovering Atlantis? | 0:06:20 | 0:06:24 | |
I want to know if this town has a future | 0:06:24 | 0:06:28 | |
or if Scarborough's dead in the water. | 0:06:28 | 0:06:31 | |
Looking back through time, this town was born from the water | 0:06:39 | 0:06:43 | |
when men from the North beached their longships in this sheltered bay. | 0:06:43 | 0:06:48 | |
The name Scarborough seems to date back to Viking times. | 0:06:52 | 0:06:57 | |
It crops up in the Icelandic sagas | 0:06:57 | 0:06:59 | |
when two Viking brothers allegedly landed on the Yorkshire coast | 0:06:59 | 0:07:03 | |
and founded a fortress called "Skardaborg" - Scarborough. | 0:07:03 | 0:07:07 | |
To warriors from the frozen north, | 0:07:07 | 0:07:09 | |
Skardaborg must have been a bit like an all-inclusive Mediterranean resort - | 0:07:09 | 0:07:14 | |
lovely sandy beach, warm sun, plenty of food. | 0:07:14 | 0:07:19 | |
What more could you want? | 0:07:19 | 0:07:22 | |
But Skardaborg was more war-zone than resort. | 0:07:24 | 0:07:27 | |
Soon after the settlement's foundation, | 0:07:27 | 0:07:30 | |
a rival group of Vikings burned the place so effectively | 0:07:30 | 0:07:33 | |
that it fails to appear at all in the Domesday survey of 1086. | 0:07:33 | 0:07:38 | |
The town really got going in the 12th century. | 0:07:41 | 0:07:44 | |
As a trading port with a great defensive headland, | 0:07:44 | 0:07:47 | |
Henry II saw potential in Scarborough. | 0:07:47 | 0:07:49 | |
It was the perfect place to build a castle and to establish a town. | 0:07:49 | 0:07:54 | |
# Are you going to Scarborough Fair? | 0:07:55 | 0:07:59 | |
# My friend, you can save your money and time. # | 0:07:59 | 0:08:03 | |
By 1163, Scarborough was in business. | 0:08:03 | 0:08:07 | |
It grew to be equal in power to York | 0:08:07 | 0:08:09 | |
and one of the largest towns on the East coast. | 0:08:09 | 0:08:12 | |
And in 1253 came a medieval hyperstore | 0:08:12 | 0:08:16 | |
the likes of which had never been seen in Northern Europe. | 0:08:16 | 0:08:20 | |
It was Scarborough Fair. | 0:08:20 | 0:08:21 | |
Scarborough Fair was held on the sands, on the site of this harbour. | 0:08:23 | 0:08:27 | |
It ran for 45 days every year, through August and September, | 0:08:27 | 0:08:31 | |
an exceptionally long time for a fair to last. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:35 | |
It was a fish market. | 0:08:35 | 0:08:36 | |
Not just any old fish market, | 0:08:36 | 0:08:38 | |
but the biggest fish market in Western Europe. | 0:08:38 | 0:08:41 | |
5,000 barrels of salt herring were sold here every year. | 0:08:41 | 0:08:45 | |
Fresh herring, dried herring too. | 0:08:45 | 0:08:48 | |
Large salted cod were also a speciality. | 0:08:48 | 0:08:52 | |
The Fair was a huge source of revenue, | 0:08:52 | 0:08:54 | |
bringing in over £250,000 in today's money to the town every year. | 0:08:54 | 0:09:00 | |
Scarborough Fair put Scarborough on the map. | 0:09:00 | 0:09:04 | |
Fish merchants came to the Fair | 0:09:06 | 0:09:08 | |
from Flanders and France, from Norway and Scotland, | 0:09:08 | 0:09:12 | |
feeding a commercial boom and driving the growth of the town. | 0:09:12 | 0:09:16 | |
Eventually, other market towns and ports caught up with Scarborough, | 0:09:16 | 0:09:21 | |
and the last Fair was held here in 1788. | 0:09:21 | 0:09:23 | |
Today, Scarborough's fish market is only a shadow of its former glory. | 0:09:23 | 0:09:29 | |
After the golden age of medieval fishing, and of Scarborough Fair, | 0:09:40 | 0:09:45 | |
the amazing moment for me - the defining incident | 0:09:45 | 0:09:48 | |
that raised this town to international stardom | 0:09:48 | 0:09:51 | |
came from the discovery of some water | 0:09:51 | 0:09:54 | |
which had a rather strange effect. | 0:09:54 | 0:09:56 | |
It was the early 17th century, Charles I was on the throne, | 0:09:56 | 0:10:00 | |
and it was the beginning of Scarborough's next golden age. | 0:10:00 | 0:10:04 | |
It started with a funny tummy. | 0:10:04 | 0:10:08 | |
In 1626, a Mrs Elizabeth Farrer, | 0:10:08 | 0:10:12 | |
who seems to have been in need of medical attention, | 0:10:12 | 0:10:14 | |
came across a spring at the foot of the cliff. | 0:10:14 | 0:10:18 | |
The stones surrounding it were curiously stained. | 0:10:18 | 0:10:22 | |
Tasting the water, she realised that it had a very high mineral content. | 0:10:22 | 0:10:27 | |
It was a purgative - just the business for cleaning out her system. | 0:10:27 | 0:10:31 | |
Drink this, and you'll be sprinting for the porcelain. | 0:10:31 | 0:10:34 | |
It started a revolution. | 0:10:34 | 0:10:36 | |
The town of Scarborough became the place to take curative dips in the sea, | 0:10:39 | 0:10:44 | |
and to take spa waters as a laxative. | 0:10:44 | 0:10:47 | |
But what was it they came here to drink? | 0:10:47 | 0:10:50 | |
-Hello, there. -Hello! | 0:10:52 | 0:10:55 | |
So, what's actually in this water? | 0:10:55 | 0:10:57 | |
Well, there's quite a lot of mineral content. | 0:10:57 | 0:11:00 | |
-I mean, if you can see by this... it's 2.7 grams per litre. -2.7. | 0:11:00 | 0:11:04 | |
So, extremely high, and that's made up of calcium carbonates, | 0:11:04 | 0:11:08 | |
iron oxides, obviously, magnesium sulphates. | 0:11:08 | 0:11:12 | |
2.7 grams in this water, so what would it normally be in ordinary water that we drink? | 0:11:12 | 0:11:17 | |
It's about 6.8 times higher than what you get in a bottle of mineral water or tap water, | 0:11:17 | 0:11:21 | |
so extremely high, yeah. | 0:11:21 | 0:11:23 | |
And Will, what's this gadget you've got here? | 0:11:23 | 0:11:26 | |
This can tell us the sulphate content of the water. | 0:11:26 | 0:11:28 | |
We can see there's a lot of minerals in the water here | 0:11:28 | 0:11:31 | |
precipitating out and we know that there's a lot of magnesium | 0:11:31 | 0:11:34 | |
and sulphate in the water, in particular. | 0:11:34 | 0:11:36 | |
Magnesium sulphate is Epsom salts which is often prescribed as a laxative | 0:11:36 | 0:11:41 | |
which is probably why the spa waters were famous for their purging effects. | 0:11:41 | 0:11:46 | |
So, we can have a quick look at this device here | 0:11:46 | 0:11:49 | |
and see how the values we get now compare with our modern day drinking water standards. | 0:11:49 | 0:11:53 | |
-So, we've got a value of, uh... -1320. -Yeah. | 0:11:53 | 0:11:56 | |
-Now, our water companies like to keep that value below 250mg per litre. -You're kidding! | 0:11:56 | 0:12:01 | |
Yeah, anything above that, you can start to taste it, | 0:12:01 | 0:12:04 | |
and at values of around 1,000 or so, it will start having that purging effect. | 0:12:04 | 0:12:08 | |
So, if you drink water that's got six times more sulphate in it than ordinary tap water, | 0:12:08 | 0:12:14 | |
what actually happens when it goes in to your system? | 0:12:14 | 0:12:16 | |
People react differently, | 0:12:16 | 0:12:18 | |
but you'd probably have a lively day or so afterwards! | 0:12:18 | 0:12:21 | |
HE LAUGHS | 0:12:21 | 0:12:22 | |
Yeah, very good. | 0:12:22 | 0:12:24 | |
'News of Mrs Farrer's discovery spread fast, | 0:12:24 | 0:12:27 | |
'but it was the publication in 1660 of a book | 0:12:27 | 0:12:30 | |
'which converted a trickle of visitors into a torrent.' | 0:12:30 | 0:12:34 | |
Forget our modern holiday ads with their palm trees, | 0:12:38 | 0:12:41 | |
their cocktails, their sky-blue pools. | 0:12:41 | 0:12:43 | |
This little book, Scarborough Spaw by one Dr Wittie, | 0:12:43 | 0:12:48 | |
turned a struggling fishing port into a national health resort. | 0:12:48 | 0:12:53 | |
Wittie's readers were urged to take the waters of Scarborough | 0:12:53 | 0:12:56 | |
between May and September - advice which triggered | 0:12:56 | 0:12:59 | |
a new, annual migration to the town. | 0:12:59 | 0:13:03 | |
The spring on the beach may just as well have been gushing liquid gold. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:07 | |
Scarborough suddenly found that it had a new, seasonal market. | 0:13:07 | 0:13:11 | |
And Dr Witties' advice extended to sea bathing too, | 0:13:15 | 0:13:19 | |
recommending that gout-sufferers strip off and take the plunge. | 0:13:19 | 0:13:23 | |
In 1733, a visitor to Scarborough wrote, "It is the custom | 0:13:25 | 0:13:30 | |
"for not only gentlemen, but the ladies also, | 0:13:30 | 0:13:32 | |
"to bathe in the seas. | 0:13:32 | 0:13:35 | |
"The gentlemen go out a little way to sea in cobbles and jump in naked, directly". | 0:13:35 | 0:13:40 | |
Cobbles were small boats, the local shallow-bottomed fishing vessels. | 0:13:40 | 0:13:45 | |
No cobbles about today so I think I'll dash for it. | 0:13:45 | 0:13:49 | |
By the 1700s, there was no shortage of medical opinion | 0:13:58 | 0:14:01 | |
concerning the benefits of sea bathing. | 0:14:01 | 0:14:04 | |
Healthy males were directed to bathe for five minutes before breakfast daily, | 0:14:04 | 0:14:08 | |
while women, invalids and children were told to take three dips | 0:14:08 | 0:14:12 | |
of two minutes duration, three hours after breakfast, three times a week. | 0:14:12 | 0:14:15 | |
It's absolutely freezing! | 0:14:26 | 0:14:30 | |
The pioneering detox was hugely profitable for the town | 0:14:32 | 0:14:36 | |
and Scarborough became Britain's first seaside resort. | 0:14:36 | 0:14:40 | |
Spa towns like Bath, Harrogate and Scarborough were Britain's first tourist destinations. | 0:14:45 | 0:14:50 | |
And in the wake of spa success, entertainment was king. | 0:14:50 | 0:14:54 | |
The Spa buildings became synonymous with big shows. | 0:14:54 | 0:14:58 | |
In its Victorian heyday, Scarborough Spa was considered | 0:14:58 | 0:15:02 | |
the most popular music hall venue outside London. | 0:15:02 | 0:15:06 | |
Wow. | 0:15:10 | 0:15:13 | |
Look at this. | 0:15:13 | 0:15:15 | |
Classic...seaside architecture at its best. | 0:15:15 | 0:15:20 | |
It's an absolute gem. It's a cast iron concert hall. | 0:15:20 | 0:15:24 | |
The Spa has been rebuilt, remodelled, | 0:15:25 | 0:15:29 | |
revamped time and again. | 0:15:29 | 0:15:31 | |
Every time storms have flattened it, fires have gutted it, | 0:15:31 | 0:15:36 | |
it's bounced back bigger, better, bolder, more stylishly. | 0:15:36 | 0:15:40 | |
The Spa is a barometer of Scarborough's confidence and vision. | 0:15:41 | 0:15:47 | |
And right now, this building is definitely going places. | 0:15:47 | 0:15:51 | |
Towns have to be resourceful. | 0:15:54 | 0:15:58 | |
They have to make the best of what they've got. | 0:15:58 | 0:16:00 | |
Scarborough turned a trickle of foul-tasting water | 0:16:00 | 0:16:03 | |
into a river of money. | 0:16:03 | 0:16:05 | |
Scarborough's evolution from spa to seaside resort | 0:16:05 | 0:16:09 | |
changed the character and economy of the town. | 0:16:09 | 0:16:13 | |
Seasonal waves of tourists created wealth for building, for expansion. | 0:16:13 | 0:16:17 | |
Tourism altered Scarborough's geography. | 0:16:20 | 0:16:22 | |
Over on the South Cliff, dignified townhouses | 0:16:22 | 0:16:25 | |
were constructed for well-heeled Northern industrialists who came for the season. | 0:16:25 | 0:16:30 | |
To the north were rows and rows of guesthouses. | 0:16:30 | 0:16:34 | |
And slicing into the centre of town was the railway | 0:16:35 | 0:16:38 | |
which brought generations of holidaymakers for sun, sand and fun. | 0:16:38 | 0:16:43 | |
The spa waters and the sea air led to centuries of success. | 0:16:45 | 0:16:49 | |
Tourists flocked to this fashionable town. | 0:16:49 | 0:16:51 | |
It became a high-class Monte Carlo of the North | 0:16:51 | 0:16:55 | |
and a great deal of the money and the style that came to Scarborough every season | 0:16:55 | 0:16:59 | |
poured into one building in particular - the Grand Hotel. | 0:16:59 | 0:17:05 | |
The Grand rules the Scarborough skyline. | 0:17:10 | 0:17:12 | |
Completed in 1867, it was built in a V shape, V for Victoria. | 0:17:12 | 0:17:19 | |
And it was designed around the theme of time. | 0:17:19 | 0:17:21 | |
The four towers represent the seasons. | 0:17:21 | 0:17:24 | |
There are 12 floors for the months of the year, | 0:17:24 | 0:17:27 | |
52 chimneys symbolise the weeks, | 0:17:27 | 0:17:29 | |
and originally, it had 365 bedrooms, one for each day of the year. | 0:17:29 | 0:17:35 | |
When the Grand was built, it was one of the largest hotels in the world. | 0:17:36 | 0:17:41 | |
The Grand was THE place for anyone with money in the North | 0:17:41 | 0:17:44 | |
who wanted luxury by the sea. | 0:17:44 | 0:17:46 | |
"Grand" doesn't do it justice, it's completely over the top. | 0:17:49 | 0:17:54 | |
Look at those tiers of golden bricks climbing above the sea. | 0:17:54 | 0:17:59 | |
The towers shaped like fish heads gaping at the heavens. | 0:17:59 | 0:18:03 | |
There's decorations dripping from it - balconies, stone swags. | 0:18:03 | 0:18:07 | |
Even the cast-iron drain pipes are twisted like barley sugar. | 0:18:07 | 0:18:11 | |
It's completely over the top, opulent, extravagant. | 0:18:11 | 0:18:14 | |
It looks like the summer palace of an imperial fruitcake. | 0:18:14 | 0:18:18 | |
'These days, just like the rest of the town, | 0:18:28 | 0:18:30 | |
'it has to appeal to a broader section of the market. | 0:18:30 | 0:18:35 | |
'I want to know where the Grand's guests come from today | 0:18:35 | 0:18:38 | |
'and what they think of this once exclusive hotel.' | 0:18:38 | 0:18:41 | |
When did you come here? | 0:18:41 | 0:18:44 | |
-Er, what day is it today? -Monday. -Monday. | 0:18:44 | 0:18:47 | |
-Where from? -Manchester. | 0:18:47 | 0:18:50 | |
-Did you know each other before? -No, we didn't. | 0:18:50 | 0:18:52 | |
We're with those over there and we've just met. | 0:18:52 | 0:18:55 | |
Just in case his wife's watching. | 0:18:55 | 0:18:57 | |
THEY LAUGH | 0:18:57 | 0:19:00 | |
We walked in today and we thought like, "Oh, God, this is really grand." | 0:19:00 | 0:19:04 | |
From the minute we came on the coach to walking in and seeing the staircase, | 0:19:04 | 0:19:09 | |
yeah, it's been wonderful. | 0:19:09 | 0:19:11 | |
-Have you ever seen stairs like these? -No. Only on Titanic. | 0:19:11 | 0:19:14 | |
If you were to look back 50 years, we probably couldn't afford to come in here. | 0:19:16 | 0:19:19 | |
We'd be on the outside with our noses on the window pane, | 0:19:19 | 0:19:23 | |
licking the glass for a taste of what it would be like inside. And now, we can afford to. | 0:19:23 | 0:19:28 | |
Everyone here's the same, aren't they? Just ordinary people. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:31 | |
Most of the Grand's visitors are coach parties - | 0:19:34 | 0:19:36 | |
older people who are looking for value for money. | 0:19:36 | 0:19:39 | |
The hotel has had an astonishing 95% occupancy in the last year. | 0:19:39 | 0:19:44 | |
This is a high volume business. | 0:19:44 | 0:19:47 | |
It has to be to make the place financially viable. | 0:19:47 | 0:19:50 | |
The Grand is a survivor. | 0:19:50 | 0:19:52 | |
This is an extraordinary place. | 0:19:52 | 0:19:57 | |
And people are so fond of it. | 0:19:57 | 0:19:59 | |
Once upon a time, walking into the foyer of the Grand | 0:19:59 | 0:20:03 | |
would have been a bit like boarding first class on a luxury ocean liner. | 0:20:03 | 0:20:08 | |
Parlour palms, chandeliers, | 0:20:08 | 0:20:10 | |
staff attending your every need. | 0:20:10 | 0:20:13 | |
You wouldn't have got in here without a tailcoat or a black tie. | 0:20:13 | 0:20:16 | |
But all that's changed. It had to. | 0:20:16 | 0:20:19 | |
For a building like this to keep going, | 0:20:19 | 0:20:21 | |
exclusivity just is not an option. | 0:20:21 | 0:20:24 | |
To survive, you have to open your doors to everybody. | 0:20:24 | 0:20:27 | |
For any seaside town, bringing in the crowds | 0:20:33 | 0:20:37 | |
and keeping tourists happy is going to be crucial. | 0:20:37 | 0:20:40 | |
It's what every seaside resort economy is built on - | 0:20:40 | 0:20:43 | |
attracting visitors and attracting money. | 0:20:43 | 0:20:46 | |
And Scarborough's no different. | 0:20:46 | 0:20:48 | |
But what if the ground shifts? | 0:20:51 | 0:20:52 | |
It's all very well filling hotels | 0:20:52 | 0:20:54 | |
but what if parts of the town are destined to slide into the sea? | 0:20:54 | 0:20:58 | |
Holbeck Hall, one of Scarborough's oldest | 0:21:00 | 0:21:02 | |
and grandest buildings has always been popular with the tourists. | 0:21:02 | 0:21:06 | |
-But today, they came to Scarborough for all the wrong reasons... -On the 3rd June 1993, | 0:21:06 | 0:21:11 | |
the muddy cliff below Holbeck Hall began to slump. | 0:21:11 | 0:21:15 | |
It got worse and worse, until finally on June 5th, | 0:21:15 | 0:21:19 | |
after heavy rain, parts of the hotel toppled down the slope. | 0:21:19 | 0:21:23 | |
It was a dramatic spectacle, and the world was watching on TV. | 0:21:23 | 0:21:28 | |
But it was the land, not the sea, that was to blame. | 0:21:28 | 0:21:31 | |
This is very dodgy geology. | 0:21:42 | 0:21:46 | |
A lot of the cliffs round here | 0:21:46 | 0:21:48 | |
are thickly capped with a layer of something called glacial till - | 0:21:48 | 0:21:52 | |
a mess of mud, sand, stones, clay - left behind by the last glaciers. | 0:21:52 | 0:21:59 | |
It's about as stable as porridge. | 0:21:59 | 0:22:03 | |
Underneath it is a more solid rock foundation of sandstone. | 0:22:03 | 0:22:08 | |
When water seeps into the glacial till, | 0:22:08 | 0:22:10 | |
it starts to slip and slide off the sandstone into the sea. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:16 | |
Scarborough's great headland is banded with harder rocks | 0:22:20 | 0:22:24 | |
which have resisted the sea, | 0:22:24 | 0:22:26 | |
but to each side of the headland are softer, less stable deposits | 0:22:26 | 0:22:29 | |
which have been eroded into Scarborough's two great bays. | 0:22:29 | 0:22:33 | |
As Scarborough grew, the town colonised areas of unstable geology. | 0:22:35 | 0:22:38 | |
And today, specialist abseiling teams | 0:22:38 | 0:22:42 | |
are tasked to monitor the cliffs. | 0:22:42 | 0:22:45 | |
It looks a messy business. | 0:22:45 | 0:22:47 | |
There isn't really a proper, a proper name for what we do. | 0:22:48 | 0:22:52 | |
Like Cliff Inspector? | 0:22:52 | 0:22:54 | |
Cliff Inspector, yes, or Cliff Monitor. | 0:22:54 | 0:22:57 | |
'Wendy Noble conducts cliff surveys along the coast | 0:22:57 | 0:23:00 | |
'to check the stability of the geology. | 0:23:00 | 0:23:03 | |
'On a daily basis, she sees that the land is slipping away.' | 0:23:03 | 0:23:06 | |
So, when you come down here, | 0:23:06 | 0:23:08 | |
what are you looking for, in terms of ringing alarm bells? | 0:23:08 | 0:23:11 | |
Well, directly on this area here we're looking for the grass | 0:23:11 | 0:23:14 | |
maybe slipping off the top | 0:23:14 | 0:23:16 | |
and underneath the grass, you've got the boulder clay. | 0:23:16 | 0:23:19 | |
-It's just dribbled over the top. -It's just dribbled over the top of all this shale | 0:23:19 | 0:23:24 | |
and with the water that seeps through it, it does soak through | 0:23:24 | 0:23:28 | |
and onto a slip plane which then creates a sliding effect and all the material | 0:23:28 | 0:23:33 | |
then starts to slide away and tip off the edge of the cliff here. | 0:23:33 | 0:23:38 | |
-And that's what we're standing on now? -And that's what we're standing on now. | 0:23:38 | 0:23:42 | |
-Doesn't make me feel confident. Shall we go down a bit lower and have a look at the sandstone? -Yes. | 0:23:42 | 0:23:47 | |
-I'm not predicting that! -Are you all right? -Yes, I'm fine. | 0:23:47 | 0:23:51 | |
I don't normally get a hood full of soil but... | 0:23:51 | 0:23:55 | |
SHE LAUGHS | 0:23:55 | 0:23:56 | |
Can you predict when all this junk will fall down? | 0:23:56 | 0:23:59 | |
Not really, no. | 0:23:59 | 0:24:00 | |
We look out for huge cracks and fissures and things like that. | 0:24:00 | 0:24:04 | |
If they're getting bigger, we try and do something about it. | 0:24:04 | 0:24:07 | |
I've done a bit of abseiling but I've never deliberately abseiled | 0:24:07 | 0:24:10 | |
-anywhere as absolutely disgusting as this. -Quite a lot of crumbly cliffs around here. | 0:24:10 | 0:24:15 | |
That's a highly technical term. | 0:24:15 | 0:24:17 | |
-Highly technical term - very crumbly! Shall we go down a bit further? -Yeah. You bet. | 0:24:17 | 0:24:22 | |
'So, this is what Scarborough has to contend with - | 0:24:22 | 0:24:25 | |
'foundations that are slipping into the sea. | 0:24:25 | 0:24:29 | |
'This town has not got it easy.' | 0:24:29 | 0:24:31 | |
Living on the edge is a contradictory state. | 0:24:33 | 0:24:36 | |
I mean, here's a place that wants to thrive | 0:24:36 | 0:24:39 | |
despite the fact that it's being constantly nibbled by nature | 0:24:39 | 0:24:44 | |
and despite the fact that it's not on the way to anywhere, it's at the end of the road. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:48 | |
It's perverse, really, contradictory. | 0:24:48 | 0:24:50 | |
Maybe it's that perversity, that constant struggle | 0:24:50 | 0:24:53 | |
that attracts a certain sort of person to Scarborough. | 0:24:53 | 0:24:57 | |
Risk-takers, maybe, | 0:24:57 | 0:24:58 | |
people who want daily contact with the essence of life, | 0:24:58 | 0:25:02 | |
the impermanent realities of existence. | 0:25:02 | 0:25:06 | |
Out here on the edge there's a heightened regard, I think, | 0:25:06 | 0:25:10 | |
for time and for place, and perhaps for people, too. | 0:25:10 | 0:25:14 | |
At Knipe Point, | 0:25:22 | 0:25:23 | |
the next raft of Scarborough properties is sliding over the edge. | 0:25:23 | 0:25:27 | |
They're mostly holiday homes, | 0:25:27 | 0:25:29 | |
but a few permanent residents live with the daily threat of losing their houses | 0:25:29 | 0:25:34 | |
with the next heavy rainfall or melt of winter snow. | 0:25:34 | 0:25:38 | |
They're right on the brink, about to topple over the cliff. | 0:25:38 | 0:25:42 | |
No-one in their right mind would buy a house here. | 0:25:42 | 0:25:45 | |
Or would they? | 0:25:45 | 0:25:47 | |
'It looks like a crime scene. Taped-off cliffs and bungalows. | 0:25:52 | 0:25:58 | |
'But a local artist has bought one of these houses and is turning it into an art installation. | 0:25:58 | 0:26:05 | |
'Maybe it's disaster art. Maybe he's just after the publicity.' | 0:26:05 | 0:26:11 | |
-Hello, Kane. Can I come in? It's freezing out there! -It is, yes. | 0:26:13 | 0:26:17 | |
-Come in. -OK. | 0:26:17 | 0:26:19 | |
It's not a normal-looking bungalow. My goodness! | 0:26:19 | 0:26:23 | |
Blimey! | 0:26:23 | 0:26:24 | |
Is this a workshop, Kane, or is this art? | 0:26:26 | 0:26:31 | |
This is art. I see this project of the building as an installation, | 0:26:31 | 0:26:36 | |
but I actually work in here to paint as well as experiment and try different things. | 0:26:36 | 0:26:40 | |
Why did you deliberately buy a house that's going to fall over a cliff? | 0:26:40 | 0:26:45 | |
When I was offered the opportunity about a year ago to buy the house, for £3,000, I just grabbed it. | 0:26:45 | 0:26:52 | |
I bought it on my credit card, that was important. The idea of that was to do with the credit crunch. | 0:26:52 | 0:26:57 | |
It was a reference to the credit crunch, to mortgages, to the fact that | 0:26:57 | 0:27:02 | |
we engage with a mortgage, it's going to last 25 years, | 0:27:02 | 0:27:05 | |
and really we don't own these properties. | 0:27:05 | 0:27:08 | |
We're borrowing them, then we're moving them on. It's a massive expense. | 0:27:08 | 0:27:12 | |
There's all sorts of references to that. | 0:27:12 | 0:27:15 | |
-Is it the impermanence of life generally? -Yeah, absolutely. | 0:27:15 | 0:27:18 | |
The transience of life, the temporality of life. That, for me, what it's all about. | 0:27:18 | 0:27:23 | |
What's the connection between all these cards and letters and... | 0:27:23 | 0:27:27 | |
I did something called "the last post", | 0:27:27 | 0:27:29 | |
and I quite like the idea of people writing to a house that was going to disappear. | 0:27:29 | 0:27:33 | |
And people have expressed personal thoughts, memories, concerns. | 0:27:33 | 0:27:37 | |
From Italy, from Germany, from Budapest, from Greece, | 0:27:37 | 0:27:42 | |
from America, Canada. | 0:27:42 | 0:27:44 | |
But this is, for me, the most significant part of the project. | 0:27:44 | 0:27:49 | |
These letters were written by local school children. | 0:27:49 | 0:27:52 | |
And I said to them, "You can write on the letter 'to be opened', and I'll read it, | 0:27:52 | 0:27:57 | |
"or 'not to be opened'", and then these letters will go over the cliff | 0:27:57 | 0:28:01 | |
never to be seen or to be read. | 0:28:01 | 0:28:04 | |
The letters from the school children that you've read, | 0:28:04 | 0:28:07 | |
-what sentiments were they expressing? -I've got some over here. | 0:28:07 | 0:28:11 | |
"I'd like to say goodbye to the house, goodbye to my thought. | 0:28:11 | 0:28:14 | |
"I wish I was braver to stand up to my parents. Since they are divorced they keep back-stabbing each other, | 0:28:14 | 0:28:20 | |
"and I miss my dad and don't think I could stand up to them, | 0:28:20 | 0:28:23 | |
"or at least they got along but I doubt it'll ever happen." | 0:28:23 | 0:28:27 | |
-And there's a drawing. -That's heartbreaking. -It is, it is. | 0:28:27 | 0:28:30 | |
But if those children have used it to put closure on something or a way of expressing themselves, | 0:28:30 | 0:28:36 | |
it has to be a good thing, and maybe it's the start of a discussion or dialogue | 0:28:36 | 0:28:40 | |
with an adult, with a friend. | 0:28:40 | 0:28:42 | |
I feel you've rather derailed me, Kane. I've got to confess that... | 0:28:42 | 0:28:47 | |
I came to the door feeling a little bit antagonistic towards the whole notion. | 0:28:47 | 0:28:52 | |
I feel a bit derailed by that letter from the child, and by those ones, and I think that... | 0:28:52 | 0:28:57 | |
But the whole thing, essentially, it's the story of tragedy. | 0:28:57 | 0:29:02 | |
It is the people in Knipe Point, they're in a situation where they're stuck | 0:29:02 | 0:29:06 | |
and nothing can really help them. | 0:29:06 | 0:29:08 | |
This land is going to go. It's steadily slipping over the edge. | 0:29:14 | 0:29:20 | |
Like parts of the coast eroding all around Britain, | 0:29:20 | 0:29:23 | |
there's nothing to stop it. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:26 | |
People will lose their homes, their investments, everything they thought they could rely on. | 0:29:26 | 0:29:32 | |
'There are coastal communities from Norfolk to Dorset | 0:29:32 | 0:29:35 | |
'who'd sympathise with the people of Knipe Point.' | 0:29:35 | 0:29:39 | |
Something happened when I walked into Kane's house. | 0:29:41 | 0:29:46 | |
I'm ashamed to say that I went along with preconceptions, | 0:29:46 | 0:29:50 | |
fairly antagonistic ones. | 0:29:50 | 0:29:51 | |
I thought, "Well, here's a man who... | 0:29:51 | 0:29:55 | |
"An artist who's trying to make something of other people's misfortunes." | 0:29:55 | 0:29:59 | |
There are several local residents there who are watching their houses | 0:29:59 | 0:30:03 | |
topple over the edge of a cliff into the abyss, | 0:30:03 | 0:30:06 | |
and there's Kane making his artistic statement. | 0:30:06 | 0:30:11 | |
And, sure, he's got an eye for the main chance. | 0:30:11 | 0:30:14 | |
Where else are you going to pick up an artist's studio | 0:30:14 | 0:30:17 | |
with a sea view like that for three grand? | 0:30:17 | 0:30:20 | |
But I think he's doing something really important. He's drawing attention to some really big issues. | 0:30:20 | 0:30:26 | |
Climate change, environmental collapse, the housing crisis, economic recession. | 0:30:26 | 0:30:31 | |
He's also connecting Scarborough to the wider world, | 0:30:31 | 0:30:37 | |
which is what a place at the end of the line really needs. | 0:30:37 | 0:30:41 | |
There are people far away from here who are learning about | 0:30:41 | 0:30:45 | |
this strange bungalow that's about to fall into the void. | 0:30:45 | 0:30:50 | |
But what really excited me was that after about ten minutes in there, | 0:30:51 | 0:30:55 | |
I suddenly realised that Kane had invited me to take part | 0:30:55 | 0:31:01 | |
in a completely unpredictable, very thought-provoking conversation | 0:31:01 | 0:31:09 | |
about what it's really like to live on the edge. | 0:31:09 | 0:31:13 | |
It would be so easy for a seaside town like Scarborough | 0:31:19 | 0:31:22 | |
to be isolated and cut off from the rest of the world. | 0:31:22 | 0:31:27 | |
But art, music, theatre, culture can be lifelines for a town. | 0:31:28 | 0:31:33 | |
A thriving theatre or cinema, an art gallery or museum, | 0:31:33 | 0:31:36 | |
can draw the crowds and bring people together. | 0:31:36 | 0:31:39 | |
And culture travels. | 0:31:41 | 0:31:43 | |
It connects towns to other towns, to villages and even cities. | 0:31:43 | 0:31:47 | |
And this town has been exporting plays around the globe for the last 50 years. | 0:31:47 | 0:31:53 | |
The plays of the world's most performed living playwright, | 0:31:53 | 0:31:57 | |
Sir Alan Ayckbourn. | 0:31:57 | 0:32:00 | |
Alan Ayckbourn came to Scarborough in the 1950s. | 0:32:03 | 0:32:07 | |
He settled in the town, stayed put, | 0:32:07 | 0:32:10 | |
and he's written 75 plays here in the last 50 odd years. | 0:32:10 | 0:32:14 | |
Ayckbourn plays go on to London, New York, Tokyo, Berlin. | 0:32:14 | 0:32:18 | |
They're translated into 35 different languages | 0:32:18 | 0:32:21 | |
and made into internationally acclaimed films. | 0:32:21 | 0:32:24 | |
Just about all of them have been premiered here, in this small seaside town. | 0:32:24 | 0:32:30 | |
Somebody said, "You not fancy a job in Scarborough?" I said, "Where the hell's Scarborough?" | 0:32:31 | 0:32:37 | |
They said, "It's in Yorkshire." I said, "How do you...?" | 0:32:37 | 0:32:40 | |
They said, "It's by the sea." I said, "Sea?" | 0:32:40 | 0:32:43 | |
How did the population of this Victorian seaside resort react to your plays? | 0:32:43 | 0:32:50 | |
Half our audience are fish, somebody pointed out. | 0:32:50 | 0:32:54 | |
We've got the North Sea and, yes, we're on the end of a railway line and on the end of a road. | 0:32:54 | 0:32:59 | |
But they got curious. They looked at us rather strangely. | 0:32:59 | 0:33:04 | |
Sometimes you've got an audience of people who are obviously totally unused to theatre | 0:33:04 | 0:33:09 | |
and it was loudly discussed in the play. | 0:33:09 | 0:33:12 | |
It was like they don't know we're live. | 0:33:12 | 0:33:16 | |
It was topped by one woman, as the lights came up on this scene, | 0:33:16 | 0:33:20 | |
she went, "Ooh, it's in colour," which I thought was absolutely sweet. | 0:33:20 | 0:33:25 | |
What did Scarborough itself bring to your work? | 0:33:25 | 0:33:29 | |
I think it kept me on the ground because... | 0:33:29 | 0:33:32 | |
Man on the street audiences. I couldn't write airy-fairy stuff. | 0:33:32 | 0:33:37 | |
They have sayings here. | 0:33:38 | 0:33:40 | |
"They like their comedies but they don't like them too daft to laugh at." | 0:33:40 | 0:33:45 | |
So you have to write characters that they relate to or they recognise. | 0:33:45 | 0:33:51 | |
Has Scarborough been a touchstone for you as a playwright and director? | 0:33:51 | 0:33:56 | |
Yes. It's a wonderful place. | 0:33:56 | 0:34:00 | |
A lot of the material is obviously gathered from one's existence in the present, | 0:34:00 | 0:34:05 | |
but I observe the Scarborough scene | 0:34:05 | 0:34:07 | |
and I write about it, thinly disguised on it. | 0:34:07 | 0:34:11 | |
But they're all seen through a southerner's eyes. | 0:34:11 | 0:34:14 | |
The local restaurants, which I'm very fond of, | 0:34:14 | 0:34:17 | |
I'm known to lean backwards so I'm listening to the table behind me. | 0:34:17 | 0:34:22 | |
I'm a lousy dinner companion, but by God, I get some good stuff from the other table. | 0:34:22 | 0:34:27 | |
Certainly, those are two people having a very intimate conversation and my ears are flapping back. | 0:34:27 | 0:34:33 | |
What effect do you think the theatre's had on the town? | 0:34:33 | 0:34:36 | |
I think it just opened a little door which said it is possible to be done. | 0:34:36 | 0:34:41 | |
You know, we take a show from here to New York | 0:34:41 | 0:34:47 | |
with the same company, the same production, the same design team, | 0:34:47 | 0:34:52 | |
and it gets fantastic reviews, | 0:34:52 | 0:34:55 | |
and it's on the Time magazine's top three shows to see. | 0:34:55 | 0:35:00 | |
And yet it's a Scarborough show! | 0:35:00 | 0:35:03 | |
So all that rubbish about "What are you doing here?" is nonsense. | 0:35:03 | 0:35:07 | |
The best is here, and that's what I try to say. | 0:35:07 | 0:35:11 | |
I mean, you're a seaside resort, you can have the best, | 0:35:11 | 0:35:15 | |
and the people who say to me, "What are you doing there?" | 0:35:15 | 0:35:20 | |
I say, "Well, come and have a look." | 0:35:20 | 0:35:22 | |
Unstoppable Scarborough. | 0:35:33 | 0:35:34 | |
A seaside town that can hold its own on the international stage. | 0:35:34 | 0:35:39 | |
It's a bold vision, I like it. | 0:35:43 | 0:35:46 | |
Scarborough characters are exported to Broadway, | 0:35:46 | 0:35:48 | |
tread the boards in the West End. | 0:35:48 | 0:35:51 | |
The people may be thinly disguised, but Ayckbourn has made Scarborough | 0:35:51 | 0:35:55 | |
internationally famous, just by being here. | 0:35:55 | 0:35:58 | |
Seaside towns like Scarborough can find themselves | 0:36:02 | 0:36:06 | |
balanced on an economic knife edge. | 0:36:06 | 0:36:09 | |
They face far greater challenges than inland towns. | 0:36:09 | 0:36:13 | |
The nature of the summer season is boom then bust, year after year after year. | 0:36:13 | 0:36:17 | |
And these days you can't rely on sticks of rock, donkey rides, | 0:36:18 | 0:36:22 | |
sandcastles by the sea. | 0:36:22 | 0:36:25 | |
You have to adapt. Change tempo. | 0:36:25 | 0:36:28 | |
Move with the times. | 0:36:28 | 0:36:30 | |
Scarborough has taken more than its fair share of punishing blows. | 0:36:40 | 0:36:45 | |
When fishing collapsed, the town reeled. | 0:36:45 | 0:36:47 | |
And then, when holiday-makers abandoned British seaside resorts | 0:36:47 | 0:36:52 | |
and jetted off to hotter latitudes, Scarborough reeled again. | 0:36:52 | 0:36:55 | |
It's happened to other coastal towns too, from Margate and Weymouth, | 0:36:55 | 0:37:00 | |
to Great Yarmouth and Blackpool. | 0:37:00 | 0:37:02 | |
Our great Victorian seaside resorts, | 0:37:07 | 0:37:10 | |
with their promenades, piers and nostalgic iron-work, | 0:37:10 | 0:37:13 | |
have had to re-invent themselves | 0:37:13 | 0:37:15 | |
with art galleries, festivals, sporting events, conferences. | 0:37:15 | 0:37:19 | |
It's not enough to rely on summer visitors. | 0:37:19 | 0:37:22 | |
So what's waiting in the wings for Scarborough? | 0:37:22 | 0:37:25 | |
Where's the next wave of good fortune coming from? | 0:37:25 | 0:37:28 | |
How long till the next jackpot? | 0:37:28 | 0:37:31 | |
These days, seaside towns are rediscovering what they always had - the sea. | 0:37:41 | 0:37:47 | |
Never mind the weather. | 0:37:51 | 0:37:52 | |
If you've got good waves, the surf fanatics will find you. | 0:37:52 | 0:37:56 | |
Even in winter. | 0:37:56 | 0:37:57 | |
'The rise of British surfing towns first started in Cornwall, | 0:38:00 | 0:38:04 | |
'but in the north east surf scene, Scarborough leads the way.' | 0:38:04 | 0:38:07 | |
So what is the surfing like here? | 0:38:11 | 0:38:13 | |
World class, simple as that. | 0:38:13 | 0:38:15 | |
All around here, there's a lot of variety, | 0:38:15 | 0:38:18 | |
there's good waves for people to learn on South Bay. | 0:38:18 | 0:38:21 | |
Bigger waves outside the town. Lots of variety for everyone. | 0:38:21 | 0:38:24 | |
World class? Scarborough's a world-class surf resort? | 0:38:24 | 0:38:27 | |
I think so. | 0:38:27 | 0:38:28 | |
What kind of difference has it made to the economy of Scarborough having surfing here? | 0:38:28 | 0:38:33 | |
It makes a big difference because it's cold weather tourism and wet weather tourism. | 0:38:33 | 0:38:37 | |
All the tourists normally come on a nice sunny day and sit on the beach. | 0:38:37 | 0:38:41 | |
Surfers come rain, shine - if the waves are good, everyone turns up and has fun anyway. | 0:38:41 | 0:38:46 | |
I really understand the pleasures of sitting on a warm, sunny beach on an August day, but this is mid-winter. | 0:38:46 | 0:38:51 | |
We're a hearty bunch! | 0:38:51 | 0:38:52 | |
You're barking! | 0:38:52 | 0:38:54 | |
So where do we start? | 0:38:54 | 0:38:56 | |
Right, so you want to put your board down here | 0:38:56 | 0:38:58 | |
and just point towards the sea. | 0:38:58 | 0:39:00 | |
So first thing to do is just learn how to get ourselves | 0:39:02 | 0:39:05 | |
nice and straight on the board. | 0:39:05 | 0:39:07 | |
So hands there, chest over the board, | 0:39:07 | 0:39:09 | |
just lift yourself up and lay yourself nice and straight. | 0:39:09 | 0:39:13 | |
Hands at the side... | 0:39:13 | 0:39:15 | |
'I feel like an old dog trying to learn new tricks | 0:39:15 | 0:39:18 | |
'but if Scarborough has to move with the times, then so do I.' | 0:39:18 | 0:39:21 | |
Now just turn towards me and just swivel your hips, | 0:39:21 | 0:39:24 | |
so just turn like this. | 0:39:24 | 0:39:26 | |
And then from there, | 0:39:26 | 0:39:27 | |
-just slowly up to standing up, OK? -I'm surfing! | 0:39:27 | 0:39:29 | |
-That's perfect! Absolutely perfect! -Is it that easy? -Of course it is! | 0:39:29 | 0:39:33 | |
I told you it was simple! | 0:39:33 | 0:39:35 | |
OK, here we go. | 0:39:35 | 0:39:36 | |
That's great fun. You get knocked around all over the place, though. | 0:40:08 | 0:40:12 | |
Just a question of sticking with it. | 0:40:12 | 0:40:15 | |
If this town wants to get up and stay up, ride the wave, | 0:40:17 | 0:40:20 | |
it needs to function all year round. | 0:40:20 | 0:40:23 | |
It's always been the problem for seasonal towns, | 0:40:23 | 0:40:25 | |
finding income in the quiet months. | 0:40:25 | 0:40:28 | |
Reinventing itself as a surfing destination is one trick that | 0:40:28 | 0:40:32 | |
Scarborough might be able to pull off. | 0:40:32 | 0:40:34 | |
But striving to have businesses that work year round is nothing new | 0:40:34 | 0:40:38 | |
for resort towns. | 0:40:38 | 0:40:41 | |
A number of coach manufacturers set up in seaside towns | 0:40:50 | 0:40:54 | |
because, traditionally, coach building was seasonal, | 0:40:54 | 0:40:58 | |
with the winter months being busiest. | 0:40:58 | 0:41:00 | |
There were coachbuilders in Lowestoft, Blackpool and Hove. | 0:41:00 | 0:41:03 | |
While the hotel and tourist industry was all about summer work, | 0:41:03 | 0:41:07 | |
men could work through the winter building coaches. | 0:41:07 | 0:41:10 | |
Coach-building was great for a town like Scarborough | 0:41:10 | 0:41:14 | |
because, for many, it brought year-round employment. | 0:41:14 | 0:41:17 | |
Plaxtons of Scarborough are Britain's only surviving luxury coach-builder | 0:41:21 | 0:41:26 | |
and build nearly a third of the country's coaches. | 0:41:26 | 0:41:30 | |
The company was set up just over 100 years ago. | 0:41:30 | 0:41:34 | |
At the end of the Great War, they started supplying car bodies | 0:41:34 | 0:41:37 | |
to the likes of Rolls Royce and Bentley. | 0:41:37 | 0:41:40 | |
In the '20s, they established themselves as coach-builders. | 0:41:40 | 0:41:44 | |
And today they're still a big name in the bus world. | 0:41:44 | 0:41:46 | |
How long have you worked here, Allan? | 0:41:46 | 0:41:49 | |
I started in 1969, so that works out about 42 years. | 0:41:49 | 0:41:53 | |
42 years in this factory, that's a long time. | 0:41:53 | 0:41:56 | |
It has, yeah, it's been a lifetime, it's been my life. | 0:41:56 | 0:41:59 | |
What was it like when you arrived? | 0:41:59 | 0:42:02 | |
Er, scary, everything made of wood, 35 jobs a week. | 0:42:02 | 0:42:05 | |
Did you say coaches made of wood? | 0:42:05 | 0:42:07 | |
Made of wood, yeah, the bodies were all made of wood. | 0:42:07 | 0:42:10 | |
2,000 men, and now we're down to four vehicles a week and 400 men. | 0:42:10 | 0:42:16 | |
2,000 men in the whole works? | 0:42:16 | 0:42:18 | |
Yeah, we had two factories then, one here and one at Seamore Road, which is in the town itself. | 0:42:18 | 0:42:23 | |
Sixty years ago, there were more than 100 companies building buses and coaches in Britain. | 0:42:26 | 0:42:32 | |
Now, there's only one luxury coach-builder left. | 0:42:32 | 0:42:35 | |
And they're fighting a battle with foreign imports. | 0:42:35 | 0:42:38 | |
The coach comes in as a chassis and then we start by putting | 0:42:42 | 0:42:46 | |
a frame on it, which is a frame which you see at the moment. | 0:42:46 | 0:42:49 | |
This frame's part of the roll-over structure, it's a bit like a cobweb. | 0:42:49 | 0:42:53 | |
This gives it its strength and makes it safe to use on the road. | 0:42:53 | 0:42:56 | |
-Reminds me of building models. -It is, yeah, it's a bit like a Meccano set, I think. | 0:42:56 | 0:43:01 | |
-Anything I can do, a job I can have a crack at? -Erm...yeah, maybe, | 0:43:01 | 0:43:07 | |
we'll let you have a go at a windscreen. | 0:43:07 | 0:43:09 | |
-That can be difficult, but you can have a go. -I'll have a bash. | 0:43:09 | 0:43:12 | |
"Have a bash" - wrong word! | 0:43:12 | 0:43:14 | |
-All right, then, Nick? -Yep... | 0:43:16 | 0:43:18 | |
It weighs a ton, Mick! | 0:43:18 | 0:43:21 | |
-Right. OK. -Right. | 0:43:23 | 0:43:26 | |
Just lay it back. That's it. | 0:43:27 | 0:43:30 | |
That's the heaviest bit of glass I've ever picked up. | 0:43:30 | 0:43:33 | |
I need you to lift it a bit higher so that I can get this corner in. | 0:43:33 | 0:43:36 | |
Your corner wants to be that much above the gaiter. | 0:43:36 | 0:43:39 | |
-Right, swap hands. -Cor. -That's it. About there, yeah. | 0:43:41 | 0:43:44 | |
Gordon Bennett! | 0:43:44 | 0:43:47 | |
Right, just let it come down, slowly. | 0:43:47 | 0:43:50 | |
How do I get my fingers out from underneath? | 0:43:50 | 0:43:53 | |
-LAUGHS: When they start getting a bit tight, just pull them out. -OK. | 0:43:53 | 0:43:57 | |
I could do with you all the time. As I say... | 0:43:57 | 0:44:00 | |
You guys are working so fast. | 0:44:00 | 0:44:01 | |
Want to have a go at that? | 0:44:01 | 0:44:03 | |
Get it in there, just like that. | 0:44:03 | 0:44:08 | |
Twist and pull. | 0:44:08 | 0:44:10 | |
Twist and pull all the way along, like opening a can. | 0:44:10 | 0:44:13 | |
-Gosh, it's tough rubber, isn't it? -Stop there. | 0:44:15 | 0:44:18 | |
-HE LAUGHS -This is difficult, Mick! | 0:44:18 | 0:44:21 | |
How do you get that last bit in? | 0:44:21 | 0:44:23 | |
-MICK LAUGHS -With difficulty. | 0:44:23 | 0:44:26 | |
Yeah, that's in. | 0:44:31 | 0:44:33 | |
-That's a tough job, thank you. -All right, mate. | 0:44:33 | 0:44:36 | |
I take my hat off to you. | 0:44:36 | 0:44:38 | |
One of the things that strikes me, around here is that everybody's | 0:44:38 | 0:44:42 | |
really friendly with each other. | 0:44:42 | 0:44:44 | |
I think it's because everybody knows each other. | 0:44:44 | 0:44:47 | |
You know, it's quite a small area we all live in. | 0:44:47 | 0:44:49 | |
We all live in Scarborough virtually, you know, | 0:44:49 | 0:44:51 | |
the workforce mainly come from Scarborough. | 0:44:51 | 0:44:54 | |
-There's a lot of banter. -Yeah. | 0:44:54 | 0:44:56 | |
When I learned me apprenticeship, the person who taught you, | 0:44:56 | 0:45:00 | |
not only taught you how to become a tradesman. | 0:45:00 | 0:45:03 | |
He taught you... how to become a man. | 0:45:03 | 0:45:05 | |
He was like a surrogate father, really. | 0:45:05 | 0:45:08 | |
I suppose it didn't only teach me how to have a trade at the end, but it taught me everything, | 0:45:08 | 0:45:13 | |
you know, to respect people, to... | 0:45:13 | 0:45:16 | |
Just my whole way of life, really, was born through Plackies. | 0:45:16 | 0:45:19 | |
Sounds as if you were brought up by Plaxtons. | 0:45:19 | 0:45:22 | |
Yeah, you're are, really, you're brought up by Plaxtons. | 0:45:22 | 0:45:25 | |
There's a big stamp on you that says "Plaxtons" on it. | 0:45:25 | 0:45:29 | |
Plaxtons isn't what I expected. | 0:45:39 | 0:45:42 | |
It's not really a factory at all, it's a community, | 0:45:42 | 0:45:45 | |
part of the living town. | 0:45:45 | 0:45:47 | |
Never in a million years did I think I'd find myself feeling, | 0:45:47 | 0:45:51 | |
I don't know, slightly emotional about bus fabrication. | 0:45:51 | 0:45:56 | |
But, having spent the day there, I've been made very welcome, | 0:45:56 | 0:46:00 | |
I feel oddly, kind of moved, actually, stirred by the spirit of the place. | 0:46:00 | 0:46:06 | |
When you think back over the last 50 years of British history, | 0:46:06 | 0:46:11 | |
the industries which have been decimated - fishing, mining, manufacturing - it's incredible | 0:46:11 | 0:46:18 | |
that this company's putting their bespoke motor coaches and buses on the road for a global market. | 0:46:18 | 0:46:25 | |
I think to the outside world, | 0:46:25 | 0:46:28 | |
Scarborough's not well-known for its red buses and coaches | 0:46:28 | 0:46:31 | |
but now I've seen around the factory I can see that these things | 0:46:31 | 0:46:36 | |
are one of the reasons that Scarborough's heart is still beating. | 0:46:36 | 0:46:40 | |
In small towns, community matters hugely. | 0:46:55 | 0:46:59 | |
It's one of the great strengths of town life, the friendliness, | 0:46:59 | 0:47:03 | |
neighbourly feeling, and willingness to get involved. | 0:47:03 | 0:47:07 | |
And in Scarborough, community involvement has been taken to a new level. | 0:47:07 | 0:47:13 | |
When it comes to deciding how council budgets are spent, | 0:47:13 | 0:47:16 | |
the people of Scarborough turn out to vote, | 0:47:16 | 0:47:19 | |
and they turn out in their droves. | 0:47:19 | 0:47:21 | |
-Hello, there. It's really busy, isn't it? -It certainly is. | 0:47:21 | 0:47:25 | |
People are making choices about how we spend a grant fund in Scarborough. | 0:47:25 | 0:47:30 | |
There's 29 projects here that are asking for funding and we've got £74,000 to allocate. | 0:47:30 | 0:47:36 | |
What people need to do is, as they come in, they have a scoring sheet, | 0:47:36 | 0:47:42 | |
and they need to score each of the projects between one and five. | 0:47:42 | 0:47:45 | |
Five if they think it's a fantastic project, | 0:47:45 | 0:47:48 | |
one if they're not so keen on it. | 0:47:48 | 0:47:49 | |
They give each one a score, and at the end we'll add up the scores, | 0:47:49 | 0:47:53 | |
and keep going with whoever gets the highest scores until the money runs out. | 0:47:53 | 0:47:57 | |
-So this is a ballot paper. -It is, yes, | 0:47:57 | 0:47:59 | |
though you're not eligible to vote. | 0:47:59 | 0:48:01 | |
-Can I have a look around? -Of course. | 0:48:01 | 0:48:03 | |
There are local sports clubs, church halls, | 0:48:06 | 0:48:08 | |
scout groups and alcohol outreach workers, | 0:48:08 | 0:48:11 | |
all looking for a slice of funding. | 0:48:11 | 0:48:14 | |
-How much money are you trying to raise? -We're trying to raise £10,000. | 0:48:14 | 0:48:17 | |
At the moment, we have an old clubhouse and we think | 0:48:17 | 0:48:21 | |
£10,000 over the next 25-30 years will be a fitting legacy. | 0:48:21 | 0:48:25 | |
What do you think of this method of allocating funds | 0:48:25 | 0:48:27 | |
-where everybody in the community votes? -I think it's brilliant. | 0:48:27 | 0:48:31 | |
It's called participatory budgeting. | 0:48:31 | 0:48:34 | |
It originated in some of the poorest areas of Brazil in the late 1980s. | 0:48:34 | 0:48:39 | |
Scarborough is one of many British towns to have adopted this novel idea - | 0:48:39 | 0:48:44 | |
that a municipal budget should be allocated by its own citizens, | 0:48:44 | 0:48:47 | |
by ordinary people placing votes. | 0:48:47 | 0:48:51 | |
The people in here are building their own town, doing it their way. | 0:48:51 | 0:48:57 | |
-You're trying to attract funding for a loo? -We have got two loos already but they need refurbishing. | 0:48:57 | 0:49:03 | |
-So how much money do you need to raise for the loo? -Well, we need just under £10,000. | 0:49:03 | 0:49:07 | |
-What do you think of the system of votes? -I was sceptical at first, | 0:49:07 | 0:49:11 | |
but I think, now that I understand it completely, | 0:49:11 | 0:49:14 | |
I think it's probably quite good. | 0:49:14 | 0:49:16 | |
..Stick a stamp on there... | 0:49:16 | 0:49:18 | |
It does feel as if the whole community has a voice in here, | 0:49:21 | 0:49:24 | |
the means to make things happen. | 0:49:24 | 0:49:26 | |
This is local democracy - democracy in action. | 0:49:26 | 0:49:30 | |
I like it. I like it a lot. | 0:49:30 | 0:49:31 | |
You know, Scarborough's not an inward-looking town | 0:49:31 | 0:49:35 | |
with one foot in the past - it looks forward. | 0:49:35 | 0:49:38 | |
It's got the outlook of a coastal town with a view to the big blue yonder. | 0:49:38 | 0:49:42 | |
It's all about catching the next big wave. | 0:49:42 | 0:49:44 | |
One of the projects looking for funding is Mud In Your Blood, | 0:49:46 | 0:49:49 | |
a group from a local housing estate who want to set up a trail-biking track for young bikers. | 0:49:49 | 0:49:54 | |
-There's lots of people coming by. It's absolutely packed. -Oh, it's heaving again, heaving. | 0:49:54 | 0:49:59 | |
We've got a good turnout. People must be interested. | 0:49:59 | 0:50:01 | |
What sort of sales spiel are you giving people? You've got 30 seconds to sell Mud In The Blood. | 0:50:01 | 0:50:06 | |
We're playing on the youth, the nuisance bikers round the estates that cause trouble. | 0:50:06 | 0:50:10 | |
We're trying to pull it on them, so we can get them on to a safe, | 0:50:10 | 0:50:13 | |
controlled environment wearing all the right equipment. | 0:50:13 | 0:50:17 | |
This maybe appeals to the younger side though a lot of people say "Oh, I'm a biker, I want to try it." | 0:50:17 | 0:50:22 | |
Mud In Your Blood's home patch, Eastfield, | 0:50:22 | 0:50:26 | |
is on the edge of Scarborough. | 0:50:26 | 0:50:29 | |
Like many of Britain's council estates, | 0:50:29 | 0:50:31 | |
it was built in the 1940's, as part of the post-war housing effort. | 0:50:31 | 0:50:35 | |
Now, it's in the top 10% most-deprived wards | 0:50:35 | 0:50:38 | |
in England and Wales. | 0:50:38 | 0:50:39 | |
Lads riding trail bikes round the estate | 0:50:39 | 0:50:41 | |
have been getting into trouble with the police and annoying other residents. | 0:50:41 | 0:50:46 | |
But all that could be turned around. | 0:50:46 | 0:50:48 | |
-You look as if you're enjoying yourself! -Oh, yes! | 0:51:04 | 0:51:08 | |
-It's pretty muddy this track, isn't it? -It's Scarborough rain. | 0:51:08 | 0:51:11 | |
-Want a tour of the track? -Yes. | 0:51:11 | 0:51:13 | |
The local landowner, who owns a lot of land round the Scarborough area, | 0:51:17 | 0:51:21 | |
donated this to us to try and set this up, which was quite good of him. | 0:51:21 | 0:51:26 | |
What difficulties do you face in setting up something like this? | 0:51:26 | 0:51:29 | |
Mainly all the planning applications, the noise surveys, | 0:51:29 | 0:51:33 | |
the environment surveys that we've got to get funded. | 0:51:33 | 0:51:36 | |
This is just a stepping stone, hopefully, to something bigger, | 0:51:36 | 0:51:40 | |
a better piece of land, where we can have a cafe, a mechanic, we can have apprentices, | 0:51:40 | 0:51:45 | |
we can employ staff, give people jobs, which this will generate. | 0:51:45 | 0:51:50 | |
What about training youngsters to look after bikes and so on, will they be part of that? | 0:51:50 | 0:51:55 | |
Yeah, we can train them up, we have trained mechanics, | 0:51:55 | 0:51:59 | |
I'm a trained mechanic. Learn 'em to strip bikes down, | 0:51:59 | 0:52:02 | |
and even repair 'em for people. | 0:52:02 | 0:52:04 | |
-Do you have a full-time job? -Yeah, I work full-time, this is just me hobby... | 0:52:04 | 0:52:08 | |
Messing about in the mud. | 0:52:08 | 0:52:10 | |
You might argue that towns create the population centres | 0:52:18 | 0:52:21 | |
that lead to social problems. | 0:52:21 | 0:52:24 | |
But they're also the places that come up with ways to solve them. | 0:52:24 | 0:52:28 | |
For me, what Mud In Your Blood is doing ticks all the boxes - | 0:52:32 | 0:52:36 | |
youth, training, opportunity. | 0:52:36 | 0:52:38 | |
They're trying to make a positive difference. | 0:52:38 | 0:52:42 | |
It's a real buzz! And it's grassroots stuff. | 0:52:45 | 0:52:48 | |
And the thing about local grassroots projects is that they have | 0:52:48 | 0:52:52 | |
an inbuilt will to survive, because everybody's got a stake in success. | 0:52:52 | 0:52:57 | |
Townspeople put in the effort, townspeople reap the rewards. | 0:52:57 | 0:53:01 | |
It's really inspiring! | 0:53:01 | 0:53:03 | |
Seaside towns have been built on fun and Scarborough is no exception. | 0:53:15 | 0:53:20 | |
There's enterprise from the bottom up here | 0:53:20 | 0:53:23 | |
plus some quite alternative leadership. | 0:53:23 | 0:53:27 | |
Scarborough is the only town in Britain to have an all-female mayoral team. | 0:53:27 | 0:53:32 | |
'Hazel Lynskey is the mayor of Scarborough, | 0:53:32 | 0:53:35 | |
'while Sheila Kettlewell is mayoress. | 0:53:35 | 0:53:38 | |
'Eight years ago, Sheila was mayor and Hazel was her mayoress. | 0:53:38 | 0:53:42 | |
'I think I may have stumbled upon a Kennedy-like Scarborian dynasty. | 0:53:42 | 0:53:47 | |
'But if anyone can tell me what's kept Scarborough going through thick and thin, | 0:53:47 | 0:53:51 | |
'it's going to be Sheila and Hazel.' | 0:53:51 | 0:53:54 | |
I see these coins just teetering on the edge and it reminds me | 0:53:54 | 0:53:59 | |
so much of the feelings I had when I came to Scarborough | 0:53:59 | 0:54:03 | |
and saw the cliffs crumbling and all the houses perched on the edge. | 0:54:03 | 0:54:07 | |
-What do you think it is that keeps Scarborough going? -It's the people. | 0:54:07 | 0:54:11 | |
You know, the land is going to move. | 0:54:11 | 0:54:13 | |
That's a natural progression of the land. | 0:54:13 | 0:54:16 | |
But the people will always be here. | 0:54:16 | 0:54:19 | |
-They're quality people. -But there have been booms and busts in the past, haven't there? | 0:54:19 | 0:54:24 | |
The fishing industry went, | 0:54:24 | 0:54:26 | |
then British holidaymakers gave up our seaside resorts for the Med. | 0:54:26 | 0:54:31 | |
-What are your recollections of the ups and downs of Scarborough? -I think, the tired look of the town. | 0:54:31 | 0:54:38 | |
Erm, sort of, seventies, early seventies, there was lots of tired buildings, | 0:54:38 | 0:54:44 | |
because there wasn't a lot of money about. | 0:54:44 | 0:54:46 | |
And it began to look a little bit downtrodden. | 0:54:46 | 0:54:50 | |
I never lost the love of it, but I used to be disappointed. | 0:54:50 | 0:54:55 | |
Then you got the investment in the town, and it was slow. | 0:54:55 | 0:54:59 | |
But then, I don't believe you can do anything overnight. | 0:54:59 | 0:55:04 | |
We've had lots of ups and downs, but even when we're down, | 0:55:04 | 0:55:08 | |
we're never rock-bottom down, | 0:55:08 | 0:55:10 | |
cos we always know we're going to come up again. | 0:55:10 | 0:55:13 | |
I think this is self-evident, | 0:55:13 | 0:55:15 | |
whether you look at the history of the town, the castle, the harbour, | 0:55:15 | 0:55:20 | |
the foreshore, outlying villages, there's always been ups and downs. | 0:55:20 | 0:55:25 | |
But I think we've benefited in Scarborough, | 0:55:25 | 0:55:27 | |
and the fact that hoteliers have invested in their hotels, | 0:55:27 | 0:55:31 | |
we're now a 52-week town. We're not just a seasonal town. | 0:55:31 | 0:55:36 | |
I think that is something that is really, really important. | 0:55:36 | 0:55:40 | |
Breaking away from the seasonal market? | 0:55:40 | 0:55:43 | |
I think so yes, yes. | 0:55:43 | 0:55:45 | |
At one time it was six weeks, | 0:55:45 | 0:55:47 | |
if they didn't make their money in six weeks, that was it. | 0:55:47 | 0:55:51 | |
But now it is 52 weeks a year. | 0:55:51 | 0:55:53 | |
Whoa! Oh, yes... | 0:55:55 | 0:55:58 | |
Scarborough has broken away from sole reliance on the summer season trade. | 0:56:04 | 0:56:10 | |
It's beginning to spread its wings. | 0:56:10 | 0:56:13 | |
This is a fantastic place to be, even in February. | 0:56:13 | 0:56:17 | |
And the range of what you can enjoy - hip hop, jazz, | 0:56:17 | 0:56:20 | |
traditional seaside shows - it's what suits this town. | 0:56:20 | 0:56:23 | |
Hosting an arts festival in February is not just for the tourists - | 0:56:23 | 0:56:29 | |
it's also for locals to enjoy. Something to look forward to and celebrate. | 0:56:29 | 0:56:33 | |
Scarborough and its fighting spirit are enough to win over even the hardest cynic. | 0:56:33 | 0:56:39 | |
# She was once a true love of mine. # | 0:56:39 | 0:56:47 | |
APPLAUSE | 0:56:47 | 0:56:53 | |
This town has endured more ups and downs | 0:57:09 | 0:57:12 | |
than an end of the pier roller-coaster. | 0:57:12 | 0:57:15 | |
Scarborough once had the biggest fish fair in Western Europe. | 0:57:15 | 0:57:19 | |
It was a leading health spa, and Britain's first seaside resort. | 0:57:19 | 0:57:23 | |
Vikings named it, kings built castles here, | 0:57:23 | 0:57:27 | |
Kaiser Bill shelled it. | 0:57:27 | 0:57:29 | |
I think this town knows how to roll with the blows, | 0:57:29 | 0:57:34 | |
knows how to take the best of the old and look to the new. | 0:57:34 | 0:57:37 | |
Scarborough still sits on the edge. | 0:57:37 | 0:57:40 | |
But there's no chance it's going over the edge. | 0:57:40 | 0:57:43 | |
For a free booklet about what makes our towns work, call: | 0:57:46 | 0:57:50 | |
Or go to: | 0:57:55 | 0:57:59 | |
and follow the links to the Open University. | 0:57:59 | 0:58:01 | |
Next time I'll be in Perth, | 0:58:05 | 0:58:08 | |
where I'll be finding out why this town thinks it's a city. | 0:58:08 | 0:58:12 | |
How a tennis ball wrecked Perth's royal connections | 0:58:12 | 0:58:16 | |
and why rivers can be key to any town's success. | 0:58:16 | 0:58:19 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:58:41 | 0:58:44 | |
E-mail [email protected] | 0:58:44 | 0:58:47 |