Scarborough TOWN with Nicholas Crane


Scarborough

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I've seen towns explode into cities.

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I've seen towns with their hearts ripped out.

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Every town has its own tales of triumph and catastrophe.

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All of them face challenges.

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As a geographer,

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I believe that towns are the communities of the future.

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Towns will be the places we want to live.

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By 2030, a staggering 92% of us will be living the urban life.

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Congested cities sprawl across our map,

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but cities don't have all the answers.

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I believe we need to fall back in love

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with the places that first quickened our pulses.

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Towns.

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Smaller than a city, more intimate, much greener, more surprising.

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Towns are where we learned to be urban.

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They are the building blocks of our civilisation.

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Coastal towns,

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market towns, river towns, industrial towns.

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Collectively, they bind our land together.

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This is the story of towns, but it's also our story.

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Where we came from. How we live.

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And where we might be going.

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This is Scarborough,

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a Yorkshire coastal town with a history of boom and bust.

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I want to find out what's happened to this town of 40,000 people

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since its heyday as Britain's first seaside resort.

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Whether our fondness for foreign holidays has left this port

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high and dry.

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How a town on the edge survives.

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At eight in the morning of December 16th 1914,

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Britain was attacked from the sea without warning.

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EXPLOSION

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Two German battle cruisers hurled 500 explosive shells

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at a wakening seaside town.

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18 people lost their lives.

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It was the first time in over 100 years

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that civilians had been killed by an enemy on British soil.

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On that winter's day,

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the town that suddenly found itself at war was Scarborough.

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The shock of the German shelling reverberated around Britain.

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This wasn't a major city, or a crucial naval base.

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This was a peaceful British town with ordinary people going about their everyday lives.

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After the attack, Scarborough, and Britain, had a choice -

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take the blow or fight for the future.

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"Remember Scarborough" became a rallying cry,

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a call to arms to enlist in a war that was no longer distant.

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It seems to me that many of our towns are facing

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the same kind of choice now -

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take the hit or come out fighting.

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This is an era of extraordinary social and economic convulsion.

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Our towns are on the front line of change.

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They were created and developed for particular purposes -

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trade, defence, industry.

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But what happens when those traditional roles suddenly disappear?

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Should towns like Scarborough accept defeat?

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Or should we all enlist and fight for their future?

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LOUD DRUMMING

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Tonight they're launching a massive arts festival here in Scarborough.

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It's February, it's freezing,

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it seems like a mad idea.

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But Scarborough does things differently.

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Physically and creatively, it lives life on the edge.

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CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

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A town's place in the landscape

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explains why people have settled there,

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and to a large extent, it guides their destiny.

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The geography of a town affects perceptions, attitudes,

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and how its people live their lives.

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Scarborough is arranged a bit like the stalls of a theatre,

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in tiers above two bays, one to the north and one to the south.

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Two scoops out of the coastline,

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with a massive headland between them.

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A Yorkshire Rock of Gibraltar crowned with a defiant castle.

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This town sits right on the edge - on the edge of Yorkshire and the edge of England.

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Poised between land and sea,

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it's always been engaged in a struggle between prosperity and oblivion.

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There are plenty of towns where you can drive for a couple of miles

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from the centre in any direction and reach countryside.

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Try that in Scarborough, and you'll drown.

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Draw a circle around Scarborough and half of it is sea.

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It's a town of two halves.

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This half, the seaward side,

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made Scarborough feel part of the wider world.

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But this half, on the landward side,

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made Scarborough feel at the END of the world.

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Approach Scarborough from the land, and it's at the end of the road,

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and at the end of the line.

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These days, you could argue that Scarborough's out in the cold.

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So how does a seaside town like Scarborough survive?

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Is it about to slide into the depths or rise like a recovering Atlantis?

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I want to know if this town has a future

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or if Scarborough's dead in the water.

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Looking back through time, this town was born from the water

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when men from the North beached their longships in this sheltered bay.

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The name Scarborough seems to date back to Viking times.

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It crops up in the Icelandic sagas

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when two Viking brothers allegedly landed on the Yorkshire coast

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and founded a fortress called "Skardaborg" - Scarborough.

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To warriors from the frozen north,

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Skardaborg must have been a bit like an all-inclusive Mediterranean resort -

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lovely sandy beach, warm sun, plenty of food.

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What more could you want?

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But Skardaborg was more war-zone than resort.

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Soon after the settlement's foundation,

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a rival group of Vikings burned the place so effectively

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that it fails to appear at all in the Domesday survey of 1086.

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The town really got going in the 12th century.

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As a trading port with a great defensive headland,

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Henry II saw potential in Scarborough.

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It was the perfect place to build a castle and to establish a town.

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# Are you going to Scarborough Fair?

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# My friend, you can save your money and time. #

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By 1163, Scarborough was in business.

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It grew to be equal in power to York

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and one of the largest towns on the East coast.

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And in 1253 came a medieval hyperstore

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the likes of which had never been seen in Northern Europe.

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It was Scarborough Fair.

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Scarborough Fair was held on the sands, on the site of this harbour.

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It ran for 45 days every year, through August and September,

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an exceptionally long time for a fair to last.

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It was a fish market.

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Not just any old fish market,

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but the biggest fish market in Western Europe.

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5,000 barrels of salt herring were sold here every year.

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Fresh herring, dried herring too.

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Large salted cod were also a speciality.

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The Fair was a huge source of revenue,

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bringing in over £250,000 in today's money to the town every year.

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Scarborough Fair put Scarborough on the map.

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Fish merchants came to the Fair

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from Flanders and France, from Norway and Scotland,

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feeding a commercial boom and driving the growth of the town.

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Eventually, other market towns and ports caught up with Scarborough,

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and the last Fair was held here in 1788.

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Today, Scarborough's fish market is only a shadow of its former glory.

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After the golden age of medieval fishing, and of Scarborough Fair,

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the amazing moment for me - the defining incident

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that raised this town to international stardom

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came from the discovery of some water

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which had a rather strange effect.

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It was the early 17th century, Charles I was on the throne,

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and it was the beginning of Scarborough's next golden age.

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It started with a funny tummy.

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In 1626, a Mrs Elizabeth Farrer,

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who seems to have been in need of medical attention,

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came across a spring at the foot of the cliff.

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The stones surrounding it were curiously stained.

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Tasting the water, she realised that it had a very high mineral content.

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It was a purgative - just the business for cleaning out her system.

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Drink this, and you'll be sprinting for the porcelain.

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It started a revolution.

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The town of Scarborough became the place to take curative dips in the sea,

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and to take spa waters as a laxative.

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But what was it they came here to drink?

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-Hello, there.

-Hello!

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So, what's actually in this water?

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Well, there's quite a lot of mineral content.

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-I mean, if you can see by this... it's 2.7 grams per litre.

-2.7.

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So, extremely high, and that's made up of calcium carbonates,

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iron oxides, obviously, magnesium sulphates.

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2.7 grams in this water, so what would it normally be in ordinary water that we drink?

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It's about 6.8 times higher than what you get in a bottle of mineral water or tap water,

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so extremely high, yeah.

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And Will, what's this gadget you've got here?

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This can tell us the sulphate content of the water.

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We can see there's a lot of minerals in the water here

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precipitating out and we know that there's a lot of magnesium

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and sulphate in the water, in particular.

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Magnesium sulphate is Epsom salts which is often prescribed as a laxative

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which is probably why the spa waters were famous for their purging effects.

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So, we can have a quick look at this device here

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and see how the values we get now compare with our modern day drinking water standards.

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-So, we've got a value of, uh...

-1320.

-Yeah.

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-Now, our water companies like to keep that value below 250mg per litre.

-You're kidding!

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Yeah, anything above that, you can start to taste it,

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and at values of around 1,000 or so, it will start having that purging effect.

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So, if you drink water that's got six times more sulphate in it than ordinary tap water,

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what actually happens when it goes in to your system?

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People react differently,

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but you'd probably have a lively day or so afterwards!

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HE LAUGHS

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Yeah, very good.

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'News of Mrs Farrer's discovery spread fast,

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'but it was the publication in 1660 of a book

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'which converted a trickle of visitors into a torrent.'

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Forget our modern holiday ads with their palm trees,

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their cocktails, their sky-blue pools.

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This little book, Scarborough Spaw by one Dr Wittie,

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turned a struggling fishing port into a national health resort.

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Wittie's readers were urged to take the waters of Scarborough

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between May and September - advice which triggered

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a new, annual migration to the town.

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The spring on the beach may just as well have been gushing liquid gold.

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Scarborough suddenly found that it had a new, seasonal market.

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And Dr Witties' advice extended to sea bathing too,

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recommending that gout-sufferers strip off and take the plunge.

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In 1733, a visitor to Scarborough wrote, "It is the custom

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"for not only gentlemen, but the ladies also,

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"to bathe in the seas.

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"The gentlemen go out a little way to sea in cobbles and jump in naked, directly".

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Cobbles were small boats, the local shallow-bottomed fishing vessels.

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No cobbles about today so I think I'll dash for it.

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By the 1700s, there was no shortage of medical opinion

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concerning the benefits of sea bathing.

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Healthy males were directed to bathe for five minutes before breakfast daily,

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while women, invalids and children were told to take three dips

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of two minutes duration, three hours after breakfast, three times a week.

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It's absolutely freezing!

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The pioneering detox was hugely profitable for the town

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and Scarborough became Britain's first seaside resort.

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Spa towns like Bath, Harrogate and Scarborough were Britain's first tourist destinations.

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And in the wake of spa success, entertainment was king.

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The Spa buildings became synonymous with big shows.

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In its Victorian heyday, Scarborough Spa was considered

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the most popular music hall venue outside London.

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Wow.

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Look at this.

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Classic...seaside architecture at its best.

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It's an absolute gem. It's a cast iron concert hall.

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The Spa has been rebuilt, remodelled,

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revamped time and again.

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Every time storms have flattened it, fires have gutted it,

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it's bounced back bigger, better, bolder, more stylishly.

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The Spa is a barometer of Scarborough's confidence and vision.

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And right now, this building is definitely going places.

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Towns have to be resourceful.

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They have to make the best of what they've got.

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Scarborough turned a trickle of foul-tasting water

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into a river of money.

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Scarborough's evolution from spa to seaside resort

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changed the character and economy of the town.

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Seasonal waves of tourists created wealth for building, for expansion.

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Tourism altered Scarborough's geography.

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Over on the South Cliff, dignified townhouses

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were constructed for well-heeled Northern industrialists who came for the season.

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To the north were rows and rows of guesthouses.

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And slicing into the centre of town was the railway

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which brought generations of holidaymakers for sun, sand and fun.

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The spa waters and the sea air led to centuries of success.

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Tourists flocked to this fashionable town.

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It became a high-class Monte Carlo of the North

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and a great deal of the money and the style that came to Scarborough every season

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poured into one building in particular - the Grand Hotel.

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The Grand rules the Scarborough skyline.

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Completed in 1867, it was built in a V shape, V for Victoria.

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And it was designed around the theme of time.

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The four towers represent the seasons.

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There are 12 floors for the months of the year,

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52 chimneys symbolise the weeks,

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and originally, it had 365 bedrooms, one for each day of the year.

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When the Grand was built, it was one of the largest hotels in the world.

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The Grand was THE place for anyone with money in the North

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who wanted luxury by the sea.

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"Grand" doesn't do it justice, it's completely over the top.

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Look at those tiers of golden bricks climbing above the sea.

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The towers shaped like fish heads gaping at the heavens.

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There's decorations dripping from it - balconies, stone swags.

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Even the cast-iron drain pipes are twisted like barley sugar.

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It's completely over the top, opulent, extravagant.

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It looks like the summer palace of an imperial fruitcake.

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'These days, just like the rest of the town,

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'it has to appeal to a broader section of the market.

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'I want to know where the Grand's guests come from today

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'and what they think of this once exclusive hotel.'

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When did you come here?

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-Er, what day is it today?

-Monday.

-Monday.

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-Where from?

-Manchester.

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-Did you know each other before?

-No, we didn't.

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We're with those over there and we've just met.

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Just in case his wife's watching.

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THEY LAUGH

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We walked in today and we thought like, "Oh, God, this is really grand."

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From the minute we came on the coach to walking in and seeing the staircase,

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yeah, it's been wonderful.

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-Have you ever seen stairs like these?

-No. Only on Titanic.

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If you were to look back 50 years, we probably couldn't afford to come in here.

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We'd be on the outside with our noses on the window pane,

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licking the glass for a taste of what it would be like inside. And now, we can afford to.

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Everyone here's the same, aren't they? Just ordinary people.

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Most of the Grand's visitors are coach parties -

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older people who are looking for value for money.

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The hotel has had an astonishing 95% occupancy in the last year.

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This is a high volume business.

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It has to be to make the place financially viable.

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The Grand is a survivor.

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This is an extraordinary place.

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And people are so fond of it.

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Once upon a time, walking into the foyer of the Grand

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would have been a bit like boarding first class on a luxury ocean liner.

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Parlour palms, chandeliers,

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staff attending your every need.

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You wouldn't have got in here without a tailcoat or a black tie.

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But all that's changed. It had to.

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For a building like this to keep going,

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exclusivity just is not an option.

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To survive, you have to open your doors to everybody.

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For any seaside town, bringing in the crowds

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and keeping tourists happy is going to be crucial.

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It's what every seaside resort economy is built on -

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attracting visitors and attracting money.

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And Scarborough's no different.

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But what if the ground shifts?

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It's all very well filling hotels

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but what if parts of the town are destined to slide into the sea?

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Holbeck Hall, one of Scarborough's oldest

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and grandest buildings has always been popular with the tourists.

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-But today, they came to Scarborough for all the wrong reasons...

-On the 3rd June 1993,

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the muddy cliff below Holbeck Hall began to slump.

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It got worse and worse, until finally on June 5th,

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after heavy rain, parts of the hotel toppled down the slope.

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It was a dramatic spectacle, and the world was watching on TV.

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But it was the land, not the sea, that was to blame.

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This is very dodgy geology.

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A lot of the cliffs round here

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are thickly capped with a layer of something called glacial till -

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a mess of mud, sand, stones, clay - left behind by the last glaciers.

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It's about as stable as porridge.

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Underneath it is a more solid rock foundation of sandstone.

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When water seeps into the glacial till,

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it starts to slip and slide off the sandstone into the sea.

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Scarborough's great headland is banded with harder rocks

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which have resisted the sea,

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but to each side of the headland are softer, less stable deposits

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which have been eroded into Scarborough's two great bays.

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As Scarborough grew, the town colonised areas of unstable geology.

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And today, specialist abseiling teams

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are tasked to monitor the cliffs.

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It looks a messy business.

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There isn't really a proper, a proper name for what we do.

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Like Cliff Inspector?

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Cliff Inspector, yes, or Cliff Monitor.

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'Wendy Noble conducts cliff surveys along the coast

0:22:570:23:00

'to check the stability of the geology.

0:23:000:23:03

'On a daily basis, she sees that the land is slipping away.'

0:23:030:23:06

So, when you come down here,

0:23:060:23:08

what are you looking for, in terms of ringing alarm bells?

0:23:080:23:11

Well, directly on this area here we're looking for the grass

0:23:110:23:14

maybe slipping off the top

0:23:140:23:16

and underneath the grass, you've got the boulder clay.

0:23:160:23:19

-It's just dribbled over the top.

-It's just dribbled over the top of all this shale

0:23:190:23:24

and with the water that seeps through it, it does soak through

0:23:240:23:28

and onto a slip plane which then creates a sliding effect and all the material

0:23:280:23:33

then starts to slide away and tip off the edge of the cliff here.

0:23:330:23:38

-And that's what we're standing on now?

-And that's what we're standing on now.

0:23:380:23:42

-Doesn't make me feel confident. Shall we go down a bit lower and have a look at the sandstone?

-Yes.

0:23:420:23:47

-I'm not predicting that!

-Are you all right?

-Yes, I'm fine.

0:23:470:23:51

I don't normally get a hood full of soil but...

0:23:510:23:55

SHE LAUGHS

0:23:550:23:56

Can you predict when all this junk will fall down?

0:23:560:23:59

Not really, no.

0:23:590:24:00

We look out for huge cracks and fissures and things like that.

0:24:000:24:04

If they're getting bigger, we try and do something about it.

0:24:040:24:07

I've done a bit of abseiling but I've never deliberately abseiled

0:24:070:24:10

-anywhere as absolutely disgusting as this.

-Quite a lot of crumbly cliffs around here.

0:24:100:24:15

That's a highly technical term.

0:24:150:24:17

-Highly technical term - very crumbly! Shall we go down a bit further?

-Yeah. You bet.

0:24:170:24:22

'So, this is what Scarborough has to contend with -

0:24:220:24:25

'foundations that are slipping into the sea.

0:24:250:24:29

'This town has not got it easy.'

0:24:290:24:31

Living on the edge is a contradictory state.

0:24:330:24:36

I mean, here's a place that wants to thrive

0:24:360:24:39

despite the fact that it's being constantly nibbled by nature

0:24:390:24:44

and despite the fact that it's not on the way to anywhere, it's at the end of the road.

0:24:440:24:48

It's perverse, really, contradictory.

0:24:480:24:50

Maybe it's that perversity, that constant struggle

0:24:500:24:53

that attracts a certain sort of person to Scarborough.

0:24:530:24:57

Risk-takers, maybe,

0:24:570:24:58

people who want daily contact with the essence of life,

0:24:580:25:02

the impermanent realities of existence.

0:25:020:25:06

Out here on the edge there's a heightened regard, I think,

0:25:060:25:10

for time and for place, and perhaps for people, too.

0:25:100:25:14

At Knipe Point,

0:25:220:25:23

the next raft of Scarborough properties is sliding over the edge.

0:25:230:25:27

They're mostly holiday homes,

0:25:270:25:29

but a few permanent residents live with the daily threat of losing their houses

0:25:290:25:34

with the next heavy rainfall or melt of winter snow.

0:25:340:25:38

They're right on the brink, about to topple over the cliff.

0:25:380:25:42

No-one in their right mind would buy a house here.

0:25:420:25:45

Or would they?

0:25:450:25:47

'It looks like a crime scene. Taped-off cliffs and bungalows.

0:25:520:25:58

'But a local artist has bought one of these houses and is turning it into an art installation.

0:25:580:26:05

'Maybe it's disaster art. Maybe he's just after the publicity.'

0:26:050:26:11

-Hello, Kane. Can I come in? It's freezing out there!

-It is, yes.

0:26:130:26:17

-Come in.

-OK.

0:26:170:26:19

It's not a normal-looking bungalow. My goodness!

0:26:190:26:23

Blimey!

0:26:230:26:24

Is this a workshop, Kane, or is this art?

0:26:260:26:31

This is art. I see this project of the building as an installation,

0:26:310:26:36

but I actually work in here to paint as well as experiment and try different things.

0:26:360:26:40

Why did you deliberately buy a house that's going to fall over a cliff?

0:26:400:26:45

When I was offered the opportunity about a year ago to buy the house, for £3,000, I just grabbed it.

0:26:450:26:52

I bought it on my credit card, that was important. The idea of that was to do with the credit crunch.

0:26:520:26:57

It was a reference to the credit crunch, to mortgages, to the fact that

0:26:570:27:02

we engage with a mortgage, it's going to last 25 years,

0:27:020:27:05

and really we don't own these properties.

0:27:050:27:08

We're borrowing them, then we're moving them on. It's a massive expense.

0:27:080:27:12

There's all sorts of references to that.

0:27:120:27:15

-Is it the impermanence of life generally?

-Yeah, absolutely.

0:27:150:27:18

The transience of life, the temporality of life. That, for me, what it's all about.

0:27:180:27:23

What's the connection between all these cards and letters and...

0:27:230:27:27

I did something called "the last post",

0:27:270:27:29

and I quite like the idea of people writing to a house that was going to disappear.

0:27:290:27:33

And people have expressed personal thoughts, memories, concerns.

0:27:330:27:37

From Italy, from Germany, from Budapest, from Greece,

0:27:370:27:42

from America, Canada.

0:27:420:27:44

But this is, for me, the most significant part of the project.

0:27:440:27:49

These letters were written by local school children.

0:27:490:27:52

And I said to them, "You can write on the letter 'to be opened', and I'll read it,

0:27:520:27:57

"or 'not to be opened'", and then these letters will go over the cliff

0:27:570:28:01

never to be seen or to be read.

0:28:010:28:04

The letters from the school children that you've read,

0:28:040:28:07

-what sentiments were they expressing?

-I've got some over here.

0:28:070:28:11

"I'd like to say goodbye to the house, goodbye to my thought.

0:28:110:28:14

"I wish I was braver to stand up to my parents. Since they are divorced they keep back-stabbing each other,

0:28:140:28:20

"and I miss my dad and don't think I could stand up to them,

0:28:200:28:23

"or at least they got along but I doubt it'll ever happen."

0:28:230:28:27

-And there's a drawing.

-That's heartbreaking.

-It is, it is.

0:28:270:28:30

But if those children have used it to put closure on something or a way of expressing themselves,

0:28:300:28:36

it has to be a good thing, and maybe it's the start of a discussion or dialogue

0:28:360:28:40

with an adult, with a friend.

0:28:400:28:42

I feel you've rather derailed me, Kane. I've got to confess that...

0:28:420:28:47

I came to the door feeling a little bit antagonistic towards the whole notion.

0:28:470:28:52

I feel a bit derailed by that letter from the child, and by those ones, and I think that...

0:28:520:28:57

But the whole thing, essentially, it's the story of tragedy.

0:28:570:29:02

It is the people in Knipe Point, they're in a situation where they're stuck

0:29:020:29:06

and nothing can really help them.

0:29:060:29:08

This land is going to go. It's steadily slipping over the edge.

0:29:140:29:20

Like parts of the coast eroding all around Britain,

0:29:200:29:23

there's nothing to stop it.

0:29:230:29:26

People will lose their homes, their investments, everything they thought they could rely on.

0:29:260:29:32

'There are coastal communities from Norfolk to Dorset

0:29:320:29:35

'who'd sympathise with the people of Knipe Point.'

0:29:350:29:39

Something happened when I walked into Kane's house.

0:29:410:29:46

I'm ashamed to say that I went along with preconceptions,

0:29:460:29:50

fairly antagonistic ones.

0:29:500:29:51

I thought, "Well, here's a man who...

0:29:510:29:55

"An artist who's trying to make something of other people's misfortunes."

0:29:550:29:59

There are several local residents there who are watching their houses

0:29:590:30:03

topple over the edge of a cliff into the abyss,

0:30:030:30:06

and there's Kane making his artistic statement.

0:30:060:30:11

And, sure, he's got an eye for the main chance.

0:30:110:30:14

Where else are you going to pick up an artist's studio

0:30:140:30:17

with a sea view like that for three grand?

0:30:170:30:20

But I think he's doing something really important. He's drawing attention to some really big issues.

0:30:200:30:26

Climate change, environmental collapse, the housing crisis, economic recession.

0:30:260:30:31

He's also connecting Scarborough to the wider world,

0:30:310:30:37

which is what a place at the end of the line really needs.

0:30:370:30:41

There are people far away from here who are learning about

0:30:410:30:45

this strange bungalow that's about to fall into the void.

0:30:450:30:50

But what really excited me was that after about ten minutes in there,

0:30:510:30:55

I suddenly realised that Kane had invited me to take part

0:30:550:31:01

in a completely unpredictable, very thought-provoking conversation

0:31:010:31:09

about what it's really like to live on the edge.

0:31:090:31:13

It would be so easy for a seaside town like Scarborough

0:31:190:31:22

to be isolated and cut off from the rest of the world.

0:31:220:31:27

But art, music, theatre, culture can be lifelines for a town.

0:31:280:31:33

A thriving theatre or cinema, an art gallery or museum,

0:31:330:31:36

can draw the crowds and bring people together.

0:31:360:31:39

And culture travels.

0:31:410:31:43

It connects towns to other towns, to villages and even cities.

0:31:430:31:47

And this town has been exporting plays around the globe for the last 50 years.

0:31:470:31:53

The plays of the world's most performed living playwright,

0:31:530:31:57

Sir Alan Ayckbourn.

0:31:570:32:00

Alan Ayckbourn came to Scarborough in the 1950s.

0:32:030:32:07

He settled in the town, stayed put,

0:32:070:32:10

and he's written 75 plays here in the last 50 odd years.

0:32:100:32:14

Ayckbourn plays go on to London, New York, Tokyo, Berlin.

0:32:140:32:18

They're translated into 35 different languages

0:32:180:32:21

and made into internationally acclaimed films.

0:32:210:32:24

Just about all of them have been premiered here, in this small seaside town.

0:32:240:32:30

Somebody said, "You not fancy a job in Scarborough?" I said, "Where the hell's Scarborough?"

0:32:310:32:37

They said, "It's in Yorkshire." I said, "How do you...?"

0:32:370:32:40

They said, "It's by the sea." I said, "Sea?"

0:32:400:32:43

How did the population of this Victorian seaside resort react to your plays?

0:32:430:32:50

Half our audience are fish, somebody pointed out.

0:32:500:32:54

We've got the North Sea and, yes, we're on the end of a railway line and on the end of a road.

0:32:540:32:59

But they got curious. They looked at us rather strangely.

0:32:590:33:04

Sometimes you've got an audience of people who are obviously totally unused to theatre

0:33:040:33:09

and it was loudly discussed in the play.

0:33:090:33:12

It was like they don't know we're live.

0:33:120:33:16

It was topped by one woman, as the lights came up on this scene,

0:33:160:33:20

she went, "Ooh, it's in colour," which I thought was absolutely sweet.

0:33:200:33:25

What did Scarborough itself bring to your work?

0:33:250:33:29

I think it kept me on the ground because...

0:33:290:33:32

Man on the street audiences. I couldn't write airy-fairy stuff.

0:33:320:33:37

They have sayings here.

0:33:380:33:40

"They like their comedies but they don't like them too daft to laugh at."

0:33:400:33:45

So you have to write characters that they relate to or they recognise.

0:33:450:33:51

Has Scarborough been a touchstone for you as a playwright and director?

0:33:510:33:56

Yes. It's a wonderful place.

0:33:560:34:00

A lot of the material is obviously gathered from one's existence in the present,

0:34:000:34:05

but I observe the Scarborough scene

0:34:050:34:07

and I write about it, thinly disguised on it.

0:34:070:34:11

But they're all seen through a southerner's eyes.

0:34:110:34:14

The local restaurants, which I'm very fond of,

0:34:140:34:17

I'm known to lean backwards so I'm listening to the table behind me.

0:34:170:34:22

I'm a lousy dinner companion, but by God, I get some good stuff from the other table.

0:34:220:34:27

Certainly, those are two people having a very intimate conversation and my ears are flapping back.

0:34:270:34:33

What effect do you think the theatre's had on the town?

0:34:330:34:36

I think it just opened a little door which said it is possible to be done.

0:34:360:34:41

You know, we take a show from here to New York

0:34:410:34:47

with the same company, the same production, the same design team,

0:34:470:34:52

and it gets fantastic reviews,

0:34:520:34:55

and it's on the Time magazine's top three shows to see.

0:34:550:35:00

And yet it's a Scarborough show!

0:35:000:35:03

So all that rubbish about "What are you doing here?" is nonsense.

0:35:030:35:07

The best is here, and that's what I try to say.

0:35:070:35:11

I mean, you're a seaside resort, you can have the best,

0:35:110:35:15

and the people who say to me, "What are you doing there?"

0:35:150:35:20

I say, "Well, come and have a look."

0:35:200:35:22

Unstoppable Scarborough.

0:35:330:35:34

A seaside town that can hold its own on the international stage.

0:35:340:35:39

It's a bold vision, I like it.

0:35:430:35:46

Scarborough characters are exported to Broadway,

0:35:460:35:48

tread the boards in the West End.

0:35:480:35:51

The people may be thinly disguised, but Ayckbourn has made Scarborough

0:35:510:35:55

internationally famous, just by being here.

0:35:550:35:58

Seaside towns like Scarborough can find themselves

0:36:020:36:06

balanced on an economic knife edge.

0:36:060:36:09

They face far greater challenges than inland towns.

0:36:090:36:13

The nature of the summer season is boom then bust, year after year after year.

0:36:130:36:17

And these days you can't rely on sticks of rock, donkey rides,

0:36:180:36:22

sandcastles by the sea.

0:36:220:36:25

You have to adapt. Change tempo.

0:36:250:36:28

Move with the times.

0:36:280:36:30

Scarborough has taken more than its fair share of punishing blows.

0:36:400:36:45

When fishing collapsed, the town reeled.

0:36:450:36:47

And then, when holiday-makers abandoned British seaside resorts

0:36:470:36:52

and jetted off to hotter latitudes, Scarborough reeled again.

0:36:520:36:55

It's happened to other coastal towns too, from Margate and Weymouth,

0:36:550:37:00

to Great Yarmouth and Blackpool.

0:37:000:37:02

Our great Victorian seaside resorts,

0:37:070:37:10

with their promenades, piers and nostalgic iron-work,

0:37:100:37:13

have had to re-invent themselves

0:37:130:37:15

with art galleries, festivals, sporting events, conferences.

0:37:150:37:19

It's not enough to rely on summer visitors.

0:37:190:37:22

So what's waiting in the wings for Scarborough?

0:37:220:37:25

Where's the next wave of good fortune coming from?

0:37:250:37:28

How long till the next jackpot?

0:37:280:37:31

These days, seaside towns are rediscovering what they always had - the sea.

0:37:410:37:47

Never mind the weather.

0:37:510:37:52

If you've got good waves, the surf fanatics will find you.

0:37:520:37:56

Even in winter.

0:37:560:37:57

'The rise of British surfing towns first started in Cornwall,

0:38:000:38:04

'but in the north east surf scene, Scarborough leads the way.'

0:38:040:38:07

So what is the surfing like here?

0:38:110:38:13

World class, simple as that.

0:38:130:38:15

All around here, there's a lot of variety,

0:38:150:38:18

there's good waves for people to learn on South Bay.

0:38:180:38:21

Bigger waves outside the town. Lots of variety for everyone.

0:38:210:38:24

World class? Scarborough's a world-class surf resort?

0:38:240:38:27

I think so.

0:38:270:38:28

What kind of difference has it made to the economy of Scarborough having surfing here?

0:38:280:38:33

It makes a big difference because it's cold weather tourism and wet weather tourism.

0:38:330:38:37

All the tourists normally come on a nice sunny day and sit on the beach.

0:38:370:38:41

Surfers come rain, shine - if the waves are good, everyone turns up and has fun anyway.

0:38:410:38:46

I really understand the pleasures of sitting on a warm, sunny beach on an August day, but this is mid-winter.

0:38:460:38:51

We're a hearty bunch!

0:38:510:38:52

You're barking!

0:38:520:38:54

So where do we start?

0:38:540:38:56

Right, so you want to put your board down here

0:38:560:38:58

and just point towards the sea.

0:38:580:39:00

So first thing to do is just learn how to get ourselves

0:39:020:39:05

nice and straight on the board.

0:39:050:39:07

So hands there, chest over the board,

0:39:070:39:09

just lift yourself up and lay yourself nice and straight.

0:39:090:39:13

Hands at the side...

0:39:130:39:15

'I feel like an old dog trying to learn new tricks

0:39:150:39:18

'but if Scarborough has to move with the times, then so do I.'

0:39:180:39:21

Now just turn towards me and just swivel your hips,

0:39:210:39:24

so just turn like this.

0:39:240:39:26

And then from there,

0:39:260:39:27

-just slowly up to standing up, OK?

-I'm surfing!

0:39:270:39:29

-That's perfect! Absolutely perfect!

-Is it that easy?

-Of course it is!

0:39:290:39:33

I told you it was simple!

0:39:330:39:35

OK, here we go.

0:39:350:39:36

That's great fun. You get knocked around all over the place, though.

0:40:080:40:12

Just a question of sticking with it.

0:40:120:40:15

If this town wants to get up and stay up, ride the wave,

0:40:170:40:20

it needs to function all year round.

0:40:200:40:23

It's always been the problem for seasonal towns,

0:40:230:40:25

finding income in the quiet months.

0:40:250:40:28

Reinventing itself as a surfing destination is one trick that

0:40:280:40:32

Scarborough might be able to pull off.

0:40:320:40:34

But striving to have businesses that work year round is nothing new

0:40:340:40:38

for resort towns.

0:40:380:40:41

A number of coach manufacturers set up in seaside towns

0:40:500:40:54

because, traditionally, coach building was seasonal,

0:40:540:40:58

with the winter months being busiest.

0:40:580:41:00

There were coachbuilders in Lowestoft, Blackpool and Hove.

0:41:000:41:03

While the hotel and tourist industry was all about summer work,

0:41:030:41:07

men could work through the winter building coaches.

0:41:070:41:10

Coach-building was great for a town like Scarborough

0:41:100:41:14

because, for many, it brought year-round employment.

0:41:140:41:17

Plaxtons of Scarborough are Britain's only surviving luxury coach-builder

0:41:210:41:26

and build nearly a third of the country's coaches.

0:41:260:41:30

The company was set up just over 100 years ago.

0:41:300:41:34

At the end of the Great War, they started supplying car bodies

0:41:340:41:37

to the likes of Rolls Royce and Bentley.

0:41:370:41:40

In the '20s, they established themselves as coach-builders.

0:41:400:41:44

And today they're still a big name in the bus world.

0:41:440:41:46

How long have you worked here, Allan?

0:41:460:41:49

I started in 1969, so that works out about 42 years.

0:41:490:41:53

42 years in this factory, that's a long time.

0:41:530:41:56

It has, yeah, it's been a lifetime, it's been my life.

0:41:560:41:59

What was it like when you arrived?

0:41:590:42:02

Er, scary, everything made of wood, 35 jobs a week.

0:42:020:42:05

Did you say coaches made of wood?

0:42:050:42:07

Made of wood, yeah, the bodies were all made of wood.

0:42:070:42:10

2,000 men, and now we're down to four vehicles a week and 400 men.

0:42:100:42:16

2,000 men in the whole works?

0:42:160:42:18

Yeah, we had two factories then, one here and one at Seamore Road, which is in the town itself.

0:42:180:42:23

Sixty years ago, there were more than 100 companies building buses and coaches in Britain.

0:42:260:42:32

Now, there's only one luxury coach-builder left.

0:42:320:42:35

And they're fighting a battle with foreign imports.

0:42:350:42:38

The coach comes in as a chassis and then we start by putting

0:42:420:42:46

a frame on it, which is a frame which you see at the moment.

0:42:460:42:49

This frame's part of the roll-over structure, it's a bit like a cobweb.

0:42:490:42:53

This gives it its strength and makes it safe to use on the road.

0:42:530:42:56

-Reminds me of building models.

-It is, yeah, it's a bit like a Meccano set, I think.

0:42:560:43:01

-Anything I can do, a job I can have a crack at?

-Erm...yeah, maybe,

0:43:010:43:07

we'll let you have a go at a windscreen.

0:43:070:43:09

-That can be difficult, but you can have a go.

-I'll have a bash.

0:43:090:43:12

"Have a bash" - wrong word!

0:43:120:43:14

-All right, then, Nick?

-Yep...

0:43:160:43:18

It weighs a ton, Mick!

0:43:180:43:21

-Right. OK.

-Right.

0:43:230:43:26

Just lay it back. That's it.

0:43:270:43:30

That's the heaviest bit of glass I've ever picked up.

0:43:300:43:33

I need you to lift it a bit higher so that I can get this corner in.

0:43:330:43:36

Your corner wants to be that much above the gaiter.

0:43:360:43:39

-Right, swap hands.

-Cor.

-That's it. About there, yeah.

0:43:410:43:44

Gordon Bennett!

0:43:440:43:47

Right, just let it come down, slowly.

0:43:470:43:50

How do I get my fingers out from underneath?

0:43:500:43:53

-LAUGHS: When they start getting a bit tight, just pull them out.

-OK.

0:43:530:43:57

I could do with you all the time. As I say...

0:43:570:44:00

You guys are working so fast.

0:44:000:44:01

Want to have a go at that?

0:44:010:44:03

Get it in there, just like that.

0:44:030:44:08

Twist and pull.

0:44:080:44:10

Twist and pull all the way along, like opening a can.

0:44:100:44:13

-Gosh, it's tough rubber, isn't it?

-Stop there.

0:44:150:44:18

-HE LAUGHS

-This is difficult, Mick!

0:44:180:44:21

How do you get that last bit in?

0:44:210:44:23

-MICK LAUGHS

-With difficulty.

0:44:230:44:26

Yeah, that's in.

0:44:310:44:33

-That's a tough job, thank you.

-All right, mate.

0:44:330:44:36

I take my hat off to you.

0:44:360:44:38

One of the things that strikes me, around here is that everybody's

0:44:380:44:42

really friendly with each other.

0:44:420:44:44

I think it's because everybody knows each other.

0:44:440:44:47

You know, it's quite a small area we all live in.

0:44:470:44:49

We all live in Scarborough virtually, you know,

0:44:490:44:51

the workforce mainly come from Scarborough.

0:44:510:44:54

-There's a lot of banter.

-Yeah.

0:44:540:44:56

When I learned me apprenticeship, the person who taught you,

0:44:560:45:00

not only taught you how to become a tradesman.

0:45:000:45:03

He taught you... how to become a man.

0:45:030:45:05

He was like a surrogate father, really.

0:45:050:45:08

I suppose it didn't only teach me how to have a trade at the end, but it taught me everything,

0:45:080:45:13

you know, to respect people, to...

0:45:130:45:16

Just my whole way of life, really, was born through Plackies.

0:45:160:45:19

Sounds as if you were brought up by Plaxtons.

0:45:190:45:22

Yeah, you're are, really, you're brought up by Plaxtons.

0:45:220:45:25

There's a big stamp on you that says "Plaxtons" on it.

0:45:250:45:29

Plaxtons isn't what I expected.

0:45:390:45:42

It's not really a factory at all, it's a community,

0:45:420:45:45

part of the living town.

0:45:450:45:47

Never in a million years did I think I'd find myself feeling,

0:45:470:45:51

I don't know, slightly emotional about bus fabrication.

0:45:510:45:56

But, having spent the day there, I've been made very welcome,

0:45:560:46:00

I feel oddly, kind of moved, actually, stirred by the spirit of the place.

0:46:000:46:06

When you think back over the last 50 years of British history,

0:46:060:46:11

the industries which have been decimated - fishing, mining, manufacturing - it's incredible

0:46:110:46:18

that this company's putting their bespoke motor coaches and buses on the road for a global market.

0:46:180:46:25

I think to the outside world,

0:46:250:46:28

Scarborough's not well-known for its red buses and coaches

0:46:280:46:31

but now I've seen around the factory I can see that these things

0:46:310:46:36

are one of the reasons that Scarborough's heart is still beating.

0:46:360:46:40

In small towns, community matters hugely.

0:46:550:46:59

It's one of the great strengths of town life, the friendliness,

0:46:590:47:03

neighbourly feeling, and willingness to get involved.

0:47:030:47:07

And in Scarborough, community involvement has been taken to a new level.

0:47:070:47:13

When it comes to deciding how council budgets are spent,

0:47:130:47:16

the people of Scarborough turn out to vote,

0:47:160:47:19

and they turn out in their droves.

0:47:190:47:21

-Hello, there. It's really busy, isn't it?

-It certainly is.

0:47:210:47:25

People are making choices about how we spend a grant fund in Scarborough.

0:47:250:47:30

There's 29 projects here that are asking for funding and we've got £74,000 to allocate.

0:47:300:47:36

What people need to do is, as they come in, they have a scoring sheet,

0:47:360:47:42

and they need to score each of the projects between one and five.

0:47:420:47:45

Five if they think it's a fantastic project,

0:47:450:47:48

one if they're not so keen on it.

0:47:480:47:49

They give each one a score, and at the end we'll add up the scores,

0:47:490:47:53

and keep going with whoever gets the highest scores until the money runs out.

0:47:530:47:57

-So this is a ballot paper.

-It is, yes,

0:47:570:47:59

though you're not eligible to vote.

0:47:590:48:01

-Can I have a look around?

-Of course.

0:48:010:48:03

There are local sports clubs, church halls,

0:48:060:48:08

scout groups and alcohol outreach workers,

0:48:080:48:11

all looking for a slice of funding.

0:48:110:48:14

-How much money are you trying to raise?

-We're trying to raise £10,000.

0:48:140:48:17

At the moment, we have an old clubhouse and we think

0:48:170:48:21

£10,000 over the next 25-30 years will be a fitting legacy.

0:48:210:48:25

What do you think of this method of allocating funds

0:48:250:48:27

-where everybody in the community votes?

-I think it's brilliant.

0:48:270:48:31

It's called participatory budgeting.

0:48:310:48:34

It originated in some of the poorest areas of Brazil in the late 1980s.

0:48:340:48:39

Scarborough is one of many British towns to have adopted this novel idea -

0:48:390:48:44

that a municipal budget should be allocated by its own citizens,

0:48:440:48:47

by ordinary people placing votes.

0:48:470:48:51

The people in here are building their own town, doing it their way.

0:48:510:48:57

-You're trying to attract funding for a loo?

-We have got two loos already but they need refurbishing.

0:48:570:49:03

-So how much money do you need to raise for the loo?

-Well, we need just under £10,000.

0:49:030:49:07

-What do you think of the system of votes?

-I was sceptical at first,

0:49:070:49:11

but I think, now that I understand it completely,

0:49:110:49:14

I think it's probably quite good.

0:49:140:49:16

..Stick a stamp on there...

0:49:160:49:18

It does feel as if the whole community has a voice in here,

0:49:210:49:24

the means to make things happen.

0:49:240:49:26

This is local democracy - democracy in action.

0:49:260:49:30

I like it. I like it a lot.

0:49:300:49:31

You know, Scarborough's not an inward-looking town

0:49:310:49:35

with one foot in the past - it looks forward.

0:49:350:49:38

It's got the outlook of a coastal town with a view to the big blue yonder.

0:49:380:49:42

It's all about catching the next big wave.

0:49:420:49:44

One of the projects looking for funding is Mud In Your Blood,

0:49:460:49:49

a group from a local housing estate who want to set up a trail-biking track for young bikers.

0:49:490:49:54

-There's lots of people coming by. It's absolutely packed.

-Oh, it's heaving again, heaving.

0:49:540:49:59

We've got a good turnout. People must be interested.

0:49:590:50:01

What sort of sales spiel are you giving people? You've got 30 seconds to sell Mud In The Blood.

0:50:010:50:06

We're playing on the youth, the nuisance bikers round the estates that cause trouble.

0:50:060:50:10

We're trying to pull it on them, so we can get them on to a safe,

0:50:100:50:13

controlled environment wearing all the right equipment.

0:50:130:50:17

This maybe appeals to the younger side though a lot of people say "Oh, I'm a biker, I want to try it."

0:50:170:50:22

Mud In Your Blood's home patch, Eastfield,

0:50:220:50:26

is on the edge of Scarborough.

0:50:260:50:29

Like many of Britain's council estates,

0:50:290:50:31

it was built in the 1940's, as part of the post-war housing effort.

0:50:310:50:35

Now, it's in the top 10% most-deprived wards

0:50:350:50:38

in England and Wales.

0:50:380:50:39

Lads riding trail bikes round the estate

0:50:390:50:41

have been getting into trouble with the police and annoying other residents.

0:50:410:50:46

But all that could be turned around.

0:50:460:50:48

-You look as if you're enjoying yourself!

-Oh, yes!

0:51:040:51:08

-It's pretty muddy this track, isn't it?

-It's Scarborough rain.

0:51:080:51:11

-Want a tour of the track?

-Yes.

0:51:110:51:13

The local landowner, who owns a lot of land round the Scarborough area,

0:51:170:51:21

donated this to us to try and set this up, which was quite good of him.

0:51:210:51:26

What difficulties do you face in setting up something like this?

0:51:260:51:29

Mainly all the planning applications, the noise surveys,

0:51:290:51:33

the environment surveys that we've got to get funded.

0:51:330:51:36

This is just a stepping stone, hopefully, to something bigger,

0:51:360:51:40

a better piece of land, where we can have a cafe, a mechanic, we can have apprentices,

0:51:400:51:45

we can employ staff, give people jobs, which this will generate.

0:51:450:51:50

What about training youngsters to look after bikes and so on, will they be part of that?

0:51:500:51:55

Yeah, we can train them up, we have trained mechanics,

0:51:550:51:59

I'm a trained mechanic. Learn 'em to strip bikes down,

0:51:590:52:02

and even repair 'em for people.

0:52:020:52:04

-Do you have a full-time job?

-Yeah, I work full-time, this is just me hobby...

0:52:040:52:08

Messing about in the mud.

0:52:080:52:10

You might argue that towns create the population centres

0:52:180:52:21

that lead to social problems.

0:52:210:52:24

But they're also the places that come up with ways to solve them.

0:52:240:52:28

For me, what Mud In Your Blood is doing ticks all the boxes -

0:52:320:52:36

youth, training, opportunity.

0:52:360:52:38

They're trying to make a positive difference.

0:52:380:52:42

It's a real buzz! And it's grassroots stuff.

0:52:450:52:48

And the thing about local grassroots projects is that they have

0:52:480:52:52

an inbuilt will to survive, because everybody's got a stake in success.

0:52:520:52:57

Townspeople put in the effort, townspeople reap the rewards.

0:52:570:53:01

It's really inspiring!

0:53:010:53:03

Seaside towns have been built on fun and Scarborough is no exception.

0:53:150:53:20

There's enterprise from the bottom up here

0:53:200:53:23

plus some quite alternative leadership.

0:53:230:53:27

Scarborough is the only town in Britain to have an all-female mayoral team.

0:53:270:53:32

'Hazel Lynskey is the mayor of Scarborough,

0:53:320:53:35

'while Sheila Kettlewell is mayoress.

0:53:350:53:38

'Eight years ago, Sheila was mayor and Hazel was her mayoress.

0:53:380:53:42

'I think I may have stumbled upon a Kennedy-like Scarborian dynasty.

0:53:420:53:47

'But if anyone can tell me what's kept Scarborough going through thick and thin,

0:53:470:53:51

'it's going to be Sheila and Hazel.'

0:53:510:53:54

I see these coins just teetering on the edge and it reminds me

0:53:540:53:59

so much of the feelings I had when I came to Scarborough

0:53:590:54:03

and saw the cliffs crumbling and all the houses perched on the edge.

0:54:030:54:07

-What do you think it is that keeps Scarborough going?

-It's the people.

0:54:070:54:11

You know, the land is going to move.

0:54:110:54:13

That's a natural progression of the land.

0:54:130:54:16

But the people will always be here.

0:54:160:54:19

-They're quality people.

-But there have been booms and busts in the past, haven't there?

0:54:190:54:24

The fishing industry went,

0:54:240:54:26

then British holidaymakers gave up our seaside resorts for the Med.

0:54:260:54:31

-What are your recollections of the ups and downs of Scarborough?

-I think, the tired look of the town.

0:54:310:54:38

Erm, sort of, seventies, early seventies, there was lots of tired buildings,

0:54:380:54:44

because there wasn't a lot of money about.

0:54:440:54:46

And it began to look a little bit downtrodden.

0:54:460:54:50

I never lost the love of it, but I used to be disappointed.

0:54:500:54:55

Then you got the investment in the town, and it was slow.

0:54:550:54:59

But then, I don't believe you can do anything overnight.

0:54:590:55:04

We've had lots of ups and downs, but even when we're down,

0:55:040:55:08

we're never rock-bottom down,

0:55:080:55:10

cos we always know we're going to come up again.

0:55:100:55:13

I think this is self-evident,

0:55:130:55:15

whether you look at the history of the town, the castle, the harbour,

0:55:150:55:20

the foreshore, outlying villages, there's always been ups and downs.

0:55:200:55:25

But I think we've benefited in Scarborough,

0:55:250:55:27

and the fact that hoteliers have invested in their hotels,

0:55:270:55:31

we're now a 52-week town. We're not just a seasonal town.

0:55:310:55:36

I think that is something that is really, really important.

0:55:360:55:40

Breaking away from the seasonal market?

0:55:400:55:43

I think so yes, yes.

0:55:430:55:45

At one time it was six weeks,

0:55:450:55:47

if they didn't make their money in six weeks, that was it.

0:55:470:55:51

But now it is 52 weeks a year.

0:55:510:55:53

Whoa! Oh, yes...

0:55:550:55:58

Scarborough has broken away from sole reliance on the summer season trade.

0:56:040:56:10

It's beginning to spread its wings.

0:56:100:56:13

This is a fantastic place to be, even in February.

0:56:130:56:17

And the range of what you can enjoy - hip hop, jazz,

0:56:170:56:20

traditional seaside shows - it's what suits this town.

0:56:200:56:23

Hosting an arts festival in February is not just for the tourists -

0:56:230:56:29

it's also for locals to enjoy. Something to look forward to and celebrate.

0:56:290:56:33

Scarborough and its fighting spirit are enough to win over even the hardest cynic.

0:56:330:56:39

# She was once a true love of mine. #

0:56:390:56:47

APPLAUSE

0:56:470:56:53

This town has endured more ups and downs

0:57:090:57:12

than an end of the pier roller-coaster.

0:57:120:57:15

Scarborough once had the biggest fish fair in Western Europe.

0:57:150:57:19

It was a leading health spa, and Britain's first seaside resort.

0:57:190:57:23

Vikings named it, kings built castles here,

0:57:230:57:27

Kaiser Bill shelled it.

0:57:270:57:29

I think this town knows how to roll with the blows,

0:57:290:57:34

knows how to take the best of the old and look to the new.

0:57:340:57:37

Scarborough still sits on the edge.

0:57:370:57:40

But there's no chance it's going over the edge.

0:57:400:57:43

For a free booklet about what makes our towns work, call:

0:57:460:57:50

Or go to:

0:57:550:57:59

and follow the links to the Open University.

0:57:590:58:01

Next time I'll be in Perth,

0:58:050:58:08

where I'll be finding out why this town thinks it's a city.

0:58:080:58:12

How a tennis ball wrecked Perth's royal connections

0:58:120:58:16

and why rivers can be key to any town's success.

0:58:160:58:19

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:58:410:58:44

E-mail [email protected]

0:58:440:58:47

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