Ymweliad a Dolgellau a thy tref bonheddig mewn gerddi Fictoraidd gwych. A townhouse, a mansion, a pavilion with remarkable plasterwork and an old ironmongers turned cafe in Dolg...
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-I can think of no town
-in a better location than Dolgellau.
-It nestles in the valley
-below some wonderful mountains.
-In this programme, we'll look at
-the way its buildings...
-..reflect local tradition
-Welcome to Y Dref Gymreig.
-Dolgellau is a record in stone.
-From T H Roberts...
-..to the Apollo, a small pavilion
-hiding a big treasure.
-We'll see a townhouse
-in magnificent, Victorian gardens...
-..and an impressive hall
-nestling beneath Cader Idris.
-I can't imagine a better
-starting point for this programme...
-..than the church tower,
-in the centre of town.
-We can look down at everyone,
-except the gentry houses up there.
-This is a very Welsh town.
-It's below a mountain, and there
-are stone buildings everywhere.
-Local dolerite stone
-is used in almost every building.
-This is a handsome town.
-And I mean handsome, not pretty.
-Are there many listed buildings?
-Are there many listed buildings?
-Yes, over 200 of them are listed.
-We're in Snowdonia National Park...
-..so the town's character
-can never be changed.
-is really close to the cemetery.
-Is it linked to the church
-in some way?
-This path leads to the graveyard.
-The house is called
-Tan y Fynwent (Below the Graveyard).
-It's older than the present church.
-It's one of Dolgellau's
-oldest buildings, as we can see.
-There are clues about its age here.
-The stone dormers are significant,
-as is the rough stonework.
-More recent, Victorian buildings,
-have smooth stones.
-It's a Victorian porch, but you
-can see it isn't a Victorian house.
-This 17th-century house
-has some interesting plasterwork.
-It's quite primitive,
-and I'm very fond of it.
-This oak door
-dates back to the same period.
-This is called Bolection moulding...
-..and it was fashionable
-in the late 17th century.
-The staircase is remarkable.
-This is an early 18th-century
-It stretches over three floors.
-three types of baluster here.
-These are splat balusters.
-This is the most primitive
-and the cheapest of the three types.
-It's a late 17th-century design.
-There are turned balusters...
-..and some fancy balusters at
-the bottom, where the family lived.
-This banister is wonderful.
-This banister is wonderful.
-Yes, the craftsmanship is very good.
-It's a wide staircase
-made of oak, from top to bottom.
-What's next, Greg?
-We go from a 17th-century house
-to a 17th-century bridge.
-Have you seen Minti?
-Centuries ago, this must have been
-Dolgellau's most important feature.
-This bridge made it possible
-for people to cross the river.
-Yes, this 17th-century bridge
-was widened in the 19th century.
-The top section was also rebuilt
-after the Great Flood of 1903.
-The top end was extended
-to accommodate the railway...
-where the main road lies today.
-It must have attracted visitors here
-to see this untamed countryside.
-Yes. Tourism began to flourish
-in the 1930s and the 1940s.
-It only took five hours to get
-to London from here in the 1930s.
-It would take five hours
-to drive to London from here today.
-We can see some of the town's
-best buildings from here.
-The Magistrates Court
-is very striking.
-It was built by architect,
-..for 3,000 which was
-a huge sum of money back then.
-This was designed by an architect,
-and it's an outstanding building.
-It's quite different from
-the other buildings in the town.
-The best way to see Dolgellau
-and its narrow streets is on foot.
-Minti is ready to go.
-Here we are in Eldon Square
-in the centre of the town.
-It's the focal point of Dolgellau.
-Yes, it's the heart of the town.
-All the shops are here.
-We can see the town's history
-through its buildings.
-The white building with the bays
-is the square's oldest building.
-I'm fond of Eldon Row
-which was built in 1830.
-Neuadd Idris is the main building.
-It was originally built
-as a market hall in 1870.
-It was open on the ground floor,
-but it's now full of shops.
-There are assembly rooms
-above the shops.
-It's as busy as it's always been.
-Yes, there's heavy traffic here.
-I think the traffic
-causes problems in Dolgellau.
-The street patterns are complicated,
-and there's nowhere to park.
-It's a common problem.
-Here we are,
-in a street called Wtra'r Felin.
-Wtra means narrow lane
-and Felin means mill.
-This narrow lane leads to the mill.
-This is the town's industrial area.
-There were several
-woollen mills here.
-Dolgellau's wealth was generated by
-the wool and leather industries.
-There were several tanneries here.
-The mills must have been very noisy,
-and the tanneries were very smelly.
-The tanneries used water
-from the river, down there.
-of this town's industrial past...
-..lies in old mill buildings
-and warehouses, like this one.
-There are doors on each floor
-and a roof for the winch.
-Dolgellau has several
-The word Wtra is fascinating.
-There are several examples
-of roads called Wtra in Dolgellau.
-The word Wtra comes from an English
-word from the Shropshire area.
-People in Shropshire
-use the word out-tracks.
-Dolgellau people probably
-did business with Shropshire people.
-across the border and became Wtra.
-On we go to the T H Roberts shop.
-This once thriving ironmongery
-is now a coffee shop.
-Thank you very much.
-Tell me about T H Roberts.
-It's an old shop, of course.
-They sold all sorts of things
-in this hardware store.
-It was built in 1886, at a time when
-the gold rush was on in Dolgellau.
-There were over 500 gold miners
-working in the area...
-..and they needed shops like this.
-T H Roberts sold everything...
-..from gunpowder to paraffin
-to picks and shovels.
-to see everything still intact.
-The old shelves
-and the old counter are here.
-The wood has been stripped, which
-wasn't the fashion in the 1880s.
-Apart from that, it looks authentic.
-It lends itself well to a cafe.
-No huge changes were necessary.
-That's the old office.
-The mahogany is beautiful.
-Local legend has it
-that the glass and mahogany box...
-..came from an old ship.
-I'm not convinced about that.
-It looks like it was made in 1886
-when the shop opened.
-Anyway, it's a nice story!
-I take it the interior
-of this building is listed.
-since it was a shop.
-Yes, it was listed quite recently.
-No-one can alter it in any way.
-Many treasures lie
-on the narrow streets of Dolgellau.
-This is a very unusual 1960s gem.
-This is one of the most
-remarkable buildings in Dolgellau.
-It's a Catholic church.
-Yes, and it's the newest
-of the buildings we've seen here.
-This lovely building
-only dates back to 1966...
-..but it looks traditional,
-in many ways.
-It's a copy of Romanesque designs.
-Tell me about the crucifix
-above the door.
-It's the work of an Italian sculptor
-It's said he did some work
-at St Peter's in Rome...
-..and he made the bronze doors
-for the front of Milan Cathedral.
-It's interesting because it was the
-personal project of a local priest.
-was Father Francis Scalpell.
-He believed Catholics in Dolgellau
-deserved a nobler church building...
-..than a former chip shop.
-He made it his personal project to
-raise funds to build a real church.
-It's a really powerful design.
-Yes, I'm really fond of the design,
-especially the columns.
-It reminds me of the work
-of Clough Williams-Ellis.
-Clough came from the same area...
-..and he used the same stone
-and the same styles.
-Clough liked the Norman styles
-we see here.
-The openings in the columns,
-..are lovely details.
-This is a solid, cave-like design.
-Yes, and it was designed by
-local architect, Maurice Pritchard.
-The builders were also local.
-We also know that Father Scalpell
-had a hand in the design process.
-He designed the chandeliers,
-They struck the right balance
-between traditional columns...
-..and modern, 1960s items
-such as the pews and the windows.
-Yes, they're really pretty.
-We're a mile
-from the centre of Dolgellau.
-What's the history of Dol Rhyd?
-Dol Rhyd mansion
-was built for the Vaughan family.
-We're not here
-to look inside the mansion...
-..because it's been modernized.
-We're here to see a small building
-with a very Welsh history.
-Look up there!
-It's one of Dolgellau's hidden gems.
-It's a remarkably detailed design.
-I may be guilty of overusing
-the words top quality...
-..but this really is top quality,
-I can see many cultural symbols.
-was erected by William Vaughan.
-He was an interesting man.
-He was President
-of the cultural body...
-..the Honourable Society
-He built this for its meetings
-The symbols represent
-the society's cultural passion.
-This celebrates all things Welsh.
-Yes, I can see some pan pipes.
-You could look at it all day long
-and still find something new.
-On we go to a substantial townhouse.
-Built for the Griffiths family,
-it stands in a fine two-acre garden.
-We're above Dolgellau, looking at
-lovely views above the rooftops.
-The house behind us seems to date
-from two different periods.
-Yes, we're looking at
-a Victorian house...
-..but the middle section
-is an old, early 19th-century villa.
-which is now a garage...
-..is an old, wooden hut which was
-used as a private Sunday school.
-We know that
-Bible classes were held here.
-Dolgellau has links with the Quakers
-dating back to the 17th century.
-The Griffiths family spent money on
-this wing of the house in the 1870s.
-because this was the service wing.
-They employed a cook
-and a couple of maids.
-The date is carved into
-this lovely, slate fireplace.
-This serving hatch
-leads into the dining room...
-on the other side of this wall.
-Craig y Ffynnon's main feature
-is its stunning gardens...
-..which keep its owners very busy.
-I can see why
-you don't work full-time, Shan!
-There's always work to be done here.
-Has the garden been
-a burden or a pleasure for you?
-It's been a real pleasure.
-We've raised three children here,
-and we both work hard on the garden.
-There's a highly unusual
-collection of plants here.
-Yes, and we think most of them were
-brought here in Victorian times...
-..when people went to foreign lands
-to gather plants and seeds.
-You've added to the collection.
-Yes, but we tried to keep
-the garden's Victorian character.
-We worked with the paths and
-the walls which were already here.
-I hear you and your family
-climbed one of these trees!
-Yes, we climbed the tallest tree
-in the year 2000.
-It's a coastal redwood.
-It's an unusual experience to climb
-a tree and see the view from there.
-Weren't you scared?
-No, we were totally safe!
-From one garden...
-..to another garden which is almost
-the size of Merionethshire!
-Yes, and people did think of it
-as a garden.
-The waterfalls around here
-The Richards family of Caerynwch,
-the local mansion, developed it...
-..and came to think of it
-as its personal garden.
-The paths and the bridge...
-..are designed to make the most of
-this fantastic landscape.
-Was the aim
-to create something natural?
-Yes. We're talking about the
-Picturesque period around 1800.
-You couldn't travel abroad because
-of wars and problems in France...
-..so wealthy people holidayed here
-in Great Britain.
-Many people came here
-to enjoy the romance...
-..and to taste the danger
-posed by nature.
-You can feel it here,
-above the water.
-If you were rich
-..you came to stay with
-the Richards family at Caerynwch.
-Two mansions were built
-on Caerynwch Estate land.
-dates back to late medieval times.
-The second, built in 1801,
-capitalizes on views of Cader Idris.
-The entrance corridor
-is very disappointing.
-It's small, and it's very dark.
-You then turn the corner and you see
-the house's main feature.
-It's a light, bright main vestibule
-with a wonderful staircase.
-None of the decorative touches
-are too fancy.
-No. The plasterwork is plain,
-and there's no plaster ceiling rose.
-The door mouldings
-are relatively plain.
-That was early 19th-century fashion.
-Things had changed by
-the mid-19th century, as we'll see.
-We're in the part of the house
-which as added in Victorian times.
-Yes, this drawing room
-was added in 1867.
-The architectural details
-are Georgian in style.
-The wood and the plasterwork
-around the doors...
-..are an echo
-of the designs of the 1750s.
-The fireplace is pretty special.
-The fireplace is pretty special.
-Yes, it was a fashionable fireplace.
-The 1851 Great Exhibition in London
-started this fashion...
-..for arched fireplaces.
-in the Paris Exhibition of 1855.
-This was the family's holiday home.
-They lived in London
-most of the time.
-This is Richard Richards, and he
-worked for the Exchequer in London.
-Lord Eldon was a friend of his.
-Eldon Square in Dolgellau
-was named after him.
-This is a fantastic room.
-It was added in 1900, and
-I don't think it's changed one bit.
-It hasn't been used much.
-The original table is still here...
-..and the paint
-is the original colour.
-This magnificent oak fireplace
-is also original.
-the Richards family crest.
-The family motto is also here,
-"Loyal to the Truth."
-That's an original sign.
-"Gentlemen please use the rest.
-"Do not smoke or spin coins
-over the table."
-It would be a shame to leave without
-having a quick frame of snooker.
-I am the king of the green baize!
-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones
Ymweliad a Dolgellau a thy tref bonheddig mewn gerddi Fictoraidd gwych. A townhouse, a mansion, a pavilion with remarkable plasterwork and an old ironmongers turned cafe in Dolgellau.