Llanandras Y Dref Gymreig


Llanandras

Yn y rhaglen hon byddwn yn ymweld a thref hynafol Llanandras sydd ar y ffin rhwng Cymru a Lloegr. A visit to Presteigne on the Welsh border to look at the architecture of this a...


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Transcript


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-Welcome to Llanandras or Presteigne

-as it is known in English.

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-I'm so close to England,

-if I took five steps backwards...

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-..this show would be called

-The English Town!

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-I'm ashamed to admit

-not only have I never been here...

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-..but I've never been inclined

-to do so until now.

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-Presteigne is a fascinating place...

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-..as we'll discover

-in the next half hour.

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-Welcome to Y Dref Gymreig.

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-Presteigne is Welsh, not English!

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-Presteigne is a beautiful town

-in the Welsh Marches.

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-Tonight, we hear about a green man

-who hides on a corbel.

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-We'll visit

-a restored medieval home.

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-We'll also see

-how judges lived the high life...

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-..while prisoners

-awaited their fate.

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-Here we are, on the church tower.

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-This is St Andrew's Church

-in Presteigne.

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-Even Welsh speakers call this town

-Presteigne, rather than Llanandras.

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-The border with England

-is 100 yards from this spot.

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-Yes, but we're on the better side!

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-Presteigne is a town

-packed with Tudor architecture.

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-There are more Tudor buildings here

-than anywhere else in Wales.

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-What generated this town's wealth?

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-There are substantial houses here.

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-There are substantial houses here.

-

-Yes, it was a wealthy Tudor town.

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-We're talking about

-the 16th and 17th centuries.

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-Local wool generated wealth.

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-During the 18th century,

-and into Victorian times...

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-..it was on the main route of the

-coaches from London to Aberystwyth.

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-Its proximity to the border

-also helps.

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-Looking at the town, I can see

-precious few modern features.

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-I haven't seen a single PVC window

-or door in this fantastic town!

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-It's my idea of heaven!

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-Let's explore it.

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-This is River Lugg...

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-..the river which separates

-Wales and England in this area.

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-This river has proved useful

-to local industry over the years.

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-This was the town laundry.

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-People washed everything

-in the river.

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-Prior to that, it was a tannery.

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-Animal skins were washed to

-make leather here in the Tan House.

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-There's something interesting

-in the attic.

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-You've dragged me up three flights

-of stairs to someone's attic...

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-..to see what exactly.

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-I brought you here to see

-the fascinating roof structure.

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-Most of the house was revamped

-in the 18th and 19th centuries...

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-..but here, in the attic,

-we see its history.

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-This is one of five medieval

-first-storey hall houses...

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-..discovered in the town

-by the Royal Commission.

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-Using dendrochronology

-to date the timber...

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-..they know this side

-of the building was erected in 1436.

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-It's very, very old.

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-This is probably the earliest

-secular building in Powys.

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-It couldn't be much earlier...

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-..as Owain Glyndwr torched the town

-at the start of the 15th century.

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-There are more timber-framed

-buildings on High Street.

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-Some of the facades are Victorian,

-but the frames are made of oak.

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-Despite the obvious new sections...

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-..it looks almost as natural

-as when it was built.

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-Yes, this is the old shop front

-from the 16th century.

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-It's very old,

-and it's great to see it.

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-I'd never seen one before.

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-The glass in the windows is new,

-but the structure is original.

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-This is indeed an old, Tudor shop.

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-What makes this place so special?

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-What makes this place so special?

-

-The architectural details.

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-Take a look

-at the side of the corbel.

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-There's a Green Man carving there.

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-This is an ancient pagan symbol...

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-..which became fashionable

-during the Renaissance.

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-Is it original to the building?

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-Is it original to the building?

-

-Yes, I think so.

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-That's amazing!

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-This is the crossroads

-in the centre of Presteigne.

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-That's the road from the border,

-and this is High Street.

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-The four architectural periods

-in the history of Presteigne...

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-..can be seen on these four corners.

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-The jettied, timber-framed shop

-must be the oldest.

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-Yes, beneath that plaster

-is a 16th or 17th-century building.

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-You can see some sections

-of the oak frame.

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-It's typical of Presteigne.

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-Many oak-framed buildings

-are hidden by plaster.

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-Plastering is an old,

-17th-century tradition.

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-It was used to mask

-or to decorate oak frames.

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-To our right

-is the first Post Office in Wales.

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-It looks like

-a Georgian building to me.

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-The wide eaves suggest

-it dates back to Georgian times.

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-It may even be a Victorian building.

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-This building behind us

-is 100% Victorian!

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-The Assembly Rooms

-had public rooms upstairs.

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-There was a market under the arcade.

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-This design is our old chum,

-the Italianate Gothic style!

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-Yes, indeed!

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-The Campanile tower

-gives it an Italian style.

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-Without a doubt, this is

-a crossroads of wonders...

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-..and that is

-the most amazing building of all.

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-Yes, though it's the newest

-of the four buildings.

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-It was built in around 1900.

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-It's a good example

-of Aesthetic Movement urban design.

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-It dates back to

-late Victorian times.

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-Here we see some plasterwork panels,

-known as pargeting.

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-It's a fantastic example

-of pargeting...

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-..but it doesn't reflect

-local traditions.

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-You see pargeting

-in south-east England.

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-Two miles outside the town,

-there's a medieval hall house...

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-..which has been restored

-to its original glory.

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-You've brought me here to Discoed,

-just outside Presteigne.

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-We're in a graveyard

-opposite a lovely church...

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-..in which stands this ancient yew.

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-This tree

-must be thousands of years old.

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-Yes, the experts tell us

-this is over 5,000 years old!

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-It's the oldest tree in Wales.

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-The church is medieval.

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-I like the relationship

-between the features.

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-The old castle motte, dating back

-to Norman times, is over there.

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-This ancient yew tree stands here,

-in front of a medieval church.

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-We're here to see

-the medieval manor house behind it.

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-The location of this house...

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-..and the fact

-the fancy side faces the church...

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-..suggests the owner

-was a man of status.

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-Yes, the house was built for

-a wealthy wool merchant from Ludlow.

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-From what period does it come?

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-From what period does it come?

-

-It spans two periods.

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-The original, stonework hall house

-stands here.

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-It was extended in 1536.

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-The timber has been dated...

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-..which is how we know

-the cross-wing was added in 1536.

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-This is one of the prettiest houses

-we've seen on our programmes.

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-Minti!

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-Our tour begins in what was

-the hall of the original hall house.

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-The ceiling doesn't seem straight.

-Did it used to be open to the roof?

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-Yes, it was open during the time

-when it was a hall house.

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-In the 17th century, the open hall

-was rebuilt as a two-storey house.

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-The original oak-framed house

-was rebuilt in stone.

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-The ceiling and the fireplace

-come from the same period.

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-This room, behind the partition,

-was a private family room...

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-..when this was a hall house.

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-This was the main living room

-in Tudor times...

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-..when the cross-wing was added.

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-The ceiling in here is lovely.

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-It's a traditional style for

-the county and the Presteigne area.

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-There are several examples

-in the area.

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-This staircase looks incredible!

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-I thought this was a 17th-century

-staircase, but I was wrong!

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-Only one baluster is original!

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-The pattern here is different.

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-This led to the servants' quarters,

-and it's an original staircase.

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-What a delightful room!

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-This is the fancy gable you can see

-from the outside of the house.

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-Here, you can get a good impression

-of the decorative studwork inside.

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-In the winter...

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-..they would place woollen hangings

-on the walls for insulation.

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-Oak-framed houses

-are some of the coldest in Wales.

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-I like the way the decorative work

-has an impact on the interior.

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-.

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-

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-There is another medieval hall house

-on the outskirts of Presteigne.

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-This one features carpentry

-of the highest calibre.

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-I know you're awestruck

-by this porch, Greg.

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-I can see it's a splendid porch...

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-..but I'm not totally sure

-why you're so excited about it.

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-It may not be instantly obvious...

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-..but I think

-this is the best porch in Wales.

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-This is Tudor carving work

-at its very best.

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-This was built in around 1542.

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-The carpentry is truly amazing.

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-The triangular section of timber,

-known as the corbel...

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-..features carvings

-of the carpenter's tools.

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-The carpenter carved

-images of his tools on the corbel.

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-This was an era when carpenters

-were as famous as poets and authors.

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-Yes, they were esteemed

-in Tudor times.

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-Reparatory work has been

-carried out to this porch...

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-..but I'm amazed it's still here.

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-..but I'm amazed it's still here.

-

-Yes, I agree.

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-I'd expect to find a fancy room

-above here, but it's now a bathroom.

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-Minti is already inside!

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-The ceiling carpentry here is

-just as excellent as on the porch.

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-Yes, it's probably

-the work of the same carpenter.

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-But this pattern is unusual.

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-The joists are laid in different

-directions within these sections.

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-Yes, it's a fancy ceiling.

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-It's a top quality ceiling.

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-The fireplace is interesting.

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-It looks as if someone,

-during the Victorian era...

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-..collected 17th-century panels

-from trunks and four-poster beds...

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-..and slotted them together

-to create a fancy decoration.

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-It was fashionable

-to butcher old furniture...

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-..and use decorative sections

-to create a patchwork.

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-Yes. Trunks were cheap.

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-Back to the town to see an elegant

-building called The Manor House.

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-It's a majestic, plain design

-which looks Georgian to me.

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-Yes, this is

-one of the town's largest houses.

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-It's sophisticated.

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-I love the architecture.

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-This is how it looked in the 1840s.

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-There's been a house on this site

-since the 16th century.

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-Who lived in this house?

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-Some important people

-have lived here.

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-In the early days,

-it was the Bradshaw family home.

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-It then became the judges' lodgings

-when the court was held here.

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-Let's take a look inside.

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-Let's take a look inside.

-

-You're in for a surprise.

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-You're right - I am surprised.

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-It's not what I expected.

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-It doesn't match

-the exterior of this building.

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-This is the old structure

-of the house.

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-I think this dates back

-to the 16th century.

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-One feature caught my eye

-when I walked through the door.

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-That, of course, is the panel

-at the back of the room.

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-It doesn't look like the usual

-patchwork of trunks and chests...

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-..cobbled together

-to create a pattern.

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-It looks original to me.

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-Yes, that's a magnificent fireplace.

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-It's a great example

-of 17th-century Jacobean carving.

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-Do you think this house is tied to

-the structure of the original house?

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-Is that why the ceilings are so low?

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-I'm not sure.

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-The current owners tell me

-the building is oak-framed.

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-It has a new, stone front and

-stone extensions were added to it.

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-This room

-may well have been like this...

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-..since the building was erected,

-during the 16th century.

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-Well! Out of the darkness

-and into the light.

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-Yes, it feels

-totally different upstairs.

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-This was a reception room

-rather than a bedroom.

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-The plasterwork was expensive.

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-The ceiling rose, the cornicing...

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-..and the fancy marble fireplace

-weren't cheap.

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-When was this

-added to the original house?

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-It was built around 1840.

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-That explains

-the two huge windows in here.

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-The judges' lodgings were moved from

-Manor House to this building.

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-It was erected in 1820 as a

-judges' lodgings and a court of law.

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-Well, well!

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-You instantly see

-the sheer luxury of the place.

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-Huge amounts of money

-were spent on the judges.

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-They only stayed here twice a year!

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-It was like a luxury holiday

-for them.

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-There was real money here.

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-They would come here from Brecon

-having heard maybe 100 cases...

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-..and there may not have been

-a single case awaiting them here.

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-They would dine here at night

-and hunt during the day.

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-What a lifestyle!

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-The crockery looks interesting.

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-Yes, it all came from this house.

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-Everything you see here was bought

-for this house in the 1860s.

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-The crockery and the glasses

-are original.

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-The table is set

-for an ordinary, midweek dinner.

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-There's a choice of six glasses!

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-The smallest glass is

-a sherry glass, to go with the soup.

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-White wine with the fish course,

-red wine with the meat course...

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-..sweet wine with dessert,

-also port and water.

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-That wasn't even a special dinner!

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-I use six glasses every night, too!

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-I use six glasses every night, too!

-

-Yes - you're a gentleman!

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-Let's head upstairs.

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-There are a couple

-of lovely bedrooms here...

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-..but the bathroom

-is my favourite room.

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-That's like

-taking a bath in a coffin!

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-Yes. It's a good quality, tin bath.

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-It's shaped like a coffin

-in order to save water.

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-There was no tap here...

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-..so if you wanted a bath,

-the maid had to fill it with cans.

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-Keep it in mind there are 41 steps

-between here and the kitchen!

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-This is an original can

-which has been painted.

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-I'm told it took an hour and a half

-to fill this bath!

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-I'm not sure

-how often the judges had a bath!

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-This is the kitchen.

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-Lots of hard work was done here.

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-I think this is the biggest dresser

-I've seen in my life!

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-Yes, and it was probably

-custom-built for this room.

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-Most of the structure dates back

-to 1829 when the house was built...

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-..but the wares

-date back to the 1860s.

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-That explains these gas lights.

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-But the judges were worried about

-having gas lights fitted upstairs...

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-..so they tested them out

-on the servants down here!

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-This feels a bit dark to us...

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-..but it's nothing compared to

-the prisoners' experience!

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-They were held down the corridor

-in damp, cold cells.

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-It's cold in here.

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-It's luxurious

-and it has an en suite!

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-Yes, en suite in the corner!

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-Let's head upstairs to see

-the building's main feature.

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-I'm doomed! Hell's fire

-is burning bright above me!

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-You're in the dock.

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-This is the bar.

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-That's what

-"Called to the Bar" means.

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-The judge sat opposite us

-and the lawyers sat here.

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-Journalists sat to one side,

-in that box.

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-Is the design of this courtroom...

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-..original to the period

-in which the building was erected?

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-Yes, and very little

-has been renovated.

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-The structure is original.

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-The timber was recently painted

-but nothing else has been done here.

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-When you stand in the dock,

-you feel exposed.

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-People can see you

-from every side of the courtroom.

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-Yes, but you feel quite different

-when you stand in the witness box.

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-It's the highest box

-in the courtroom.

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-The thing I like most about this

-museum is that everyone can use it.

0:23:360:23:40

-They allow children to come in here

-and act out courtroom roles.

0:23:400:23:45

-You're allowed to touch everything.

0:23:450:23:48

-There's an old judge's wig here.

0:23:490:23:51

-It's really old.

0:23:520:23:54

-Stay here where you belong...

0:23:570:23:59

-..and I'll claim my place

-on the other side of the bench.

0:23:590:24:03

-Any excuse to dress up!

0:24:040:24:05

-S4C subtitles by Eirlys A Jones

0:24:390:24:42

-.

0:24:420:24:42

Yn y rhaglen hon byddwn yn ymweld a thref hynafol Llanandras sydd ar y ffin rhwng Cymru a Lloegr. A visit to Presteigne on the Welsh border to look at the architecture of this ancient town.