Ifor a'r Afon Ganga Yr Afon


Ifor a'r Afon Ganga

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-According to the Hindu faith...

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-..the Ganga - or Ganges -

-is the world's holiest river.

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-Bathing in the river

-purifies your soul.

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-Dying on its banks

-safeguards your place in heaven.

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-But if the river

-is spiritually important...

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-..it's also crucial

-for the daily life of its people.

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-The Ganga and its tributaries

-provide fresh water...

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-..for half a billion Indian people.

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-I've come to India to follow

-the river and meet its people.

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-My journey takes me

-from the Himalayas...

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-..to the country's holiest city.

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-I'll meet people

-from all walks of life...

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-..who rely on the river

-for their livelihood.

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-On hearing their stories...

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-..there's cause for concern

-for the future.

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-India is in danger

-of destroying the river...

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-..that gives meaning to its faith

-and life to its land.

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-For millions of Indians, life would

-be impossible without the Ganga.

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-From its source in the Himalayas

-to its delta in Bengal...

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-..it flows over 1,500 miles

-across northern India.

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-Along with the rivers

-which flow into it...

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-..the Ganga sustains

-half the country's population.

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-For the Hindu faith, there is

-a wider appeal for the river.

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-The river is the physical form

-of the goddess Ganga.

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-It is a holy river.

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-For the past thousands of years...

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-..Ganga has been the basis

-of the country's culture and faith.

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-The history of the river and

-that of the country is inseparable.

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-On my journey down the river...

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-..I hope to grasp its importance

-to the people of India...

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-..and the dangers it faces.

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-First, I must reach

-the river's source.

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-I'm heading to a little village

-called Gangotri in the Himalayas.

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-As you can see,

-India is a vast country.

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-We're here in Delhi.

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-We need to travel north to Gangotri.

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-On this map,

-it's only a short journey...

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-..but in this car,

-it will take 19 hours.

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-So, let's go!

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-There's no way of avoiding

-the hustle and bustle of India.

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-There are people everywhere.

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-The river's natural fertility

-feeds these colourful crowds.

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-That's why they worship the river.

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-According to Hindu scriptures...

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-..the Ganga used to flow in heaven.

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-It agreed to descend to earth

-to help mankind...

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-..by purifying the ashes

-of the dead and resurrecting them.

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-To prevent the planet's destruction

-as the Ganga descended to earth...

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-..another God, Shiva, would absorb

-the river's energy in his hair.

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-Today, Gangotri has grown around the

-location where this all happened...

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-..according to the legend.

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-During the winter,

-it's impossible to reach Gangotri...

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-..since the roads

-are covered in snow.

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-Once spring arrives,

-the snow starts to melt...

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-..and pilgrims flock to the area.

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-After a two-day journey

-from Delhi...

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-..I join the masses.

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-Reaching Gangotri in a 4x4 vehicle

-was dangerous enough.

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-It's hard to imagine

-how these pilgrims feel...

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-..after making the journey

-in jam-packed buses.

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-Since Gangotri is three times higher

-than the summit of Snowdon...

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-..it's very cold here at daybreak

-before the sun rises overhead.

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-The pilgrims don't mind.

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-They have only one thing

-on their minds.

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-They've reached their journey's end.

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-Here, according to legend,

-Ganga descended to earth.

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-That's why pilgrims flock here

-in their thousands...

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-..to bathe and worship.

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-Just as the goddess Ganga arrived

-to purify the ashes of the dead...

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-..these pilgrims believe the river

-will wash away their sins.

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-After bathing,

-some pay local priests...

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-..to perform

-thanksgiving ceremonies...

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-..in the river.

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-For a few rupees, a few pennies...

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-..this man offers the goddess Ganga

-an oblation on my behalf.

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-He blesses my family

-and my journey along the river.

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-The blessing is

-in a foreign language...

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-..but sharing this ceremony

-is quite an experience.

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-As Muhammad Ali once said...

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-.."Rivers, ponds, lakes and streams.

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-"They have different names

-but all contain water."

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-The world's religions are the same.

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-They all have different names...

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-..but they all contain truth.

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-Here in Gangotri, since the river

-flows fresh from the mountain...

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-..people believe the water can

-purify even the most sinful soul.

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-That's why pilgrims travel

-so far to reach here.

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-The most dedicated

-don't arrive by bus.

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-They walk - every step of the way.

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-These people are called sadhus.

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-Sadhu literally means good man.

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-There are 5 million sadhus in India.

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-They are pilgrims who have forgone

-the material world...

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-..to worship the gods.

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-They wear orange as a symbol

-of their poverty.

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-Sadhus survive on charity.

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-Some cover themselves in ash to show

-the strength of their conviction.

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-For sadhus, toiling along

-the long road to Gangotri...

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-..is a sign of their commitment

-to the goddess Ganga.

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-However,

-for the most committed pilgrims...

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-..Gangotri is not

-the end of the journey.

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-This is the source of the river

-according to Hindu scriptures...

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-..but these days, the Ganga starts

-ten miles in that direction...

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-..in the mountains

-around the Gamukh glacier.

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-The literal meaning of Gamukh

-is cow's mouth.

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-It describes the cave

-where the Ganga starts its journey.

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-Here, the river is cream in colour.

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-Over time,

-the source of the river moves...

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-..as the glaciers that feed it

-melt away.

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-Back in Gangotri, I meet a man

-who has witnessed these changes...

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-..during his lifetime.

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-Swami Sundaranand is 81 years old.

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-He first arrived in Gangotri

-when he was a young man.

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-I arrived in Gangotri in 1948.

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-Gangotri is 10,300 feet

-above sea level.

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-The flowers which grew here then...

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-..the deer and the brown and white

-bears, have all disappeared.

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-Now, an entire town

-has been built here.

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-For the past 60 years,

-he has recorded all these changes...

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-..using his camera.

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-From left to right, this is

-a panorama of eight photographs.

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-Behind the summit of Shivling

-is the Meru glacier.

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-It meets the Gangotri glacier here.

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-The Gangotri glacier in Gamukh

-has retreated three kilometres...

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-..and decreased by one kilometre.

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-The Gangotri glacier is melting.

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-It retreats 25 metres each year...

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-..which explains the confusion

-about the source of the Ganga.

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-Today, the river

-begins its journey in Gamukh.

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-4,000 years ago, when the Hindu

-scriptures were first written...

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-..the glacier stretched for miles

-further down the valley.

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-That's why people believe that Ganga

-descended to earth in Gangotri.

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-When the earth was formed, when the

-Himalayas and glaciers were born...

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-..the Gamukh glacier started here.

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-Because of global warming,

-deforestation and fire...

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-..as a result of modern living...

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-..the wildlife has disappeared...

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-..and the Gamukh glacier

-is retreating further and further.

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-Within 50 years...

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-..the eternal glacier

-will disappear.

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-India and the whole world will long

-for the smallest drop of water...

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-..from the Ganga.

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-It's hard to imagine this today...

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-..but scientists agree that

-Swami Sundaranand speaks the truth.

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-Scientists predict that the glaciers

-could retreat even faster.

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-They could all melt

-as early as 2035.

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-Then, the source of the Ganga

-would disappear.

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-My journey, like the Ganga...

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-..continues for the time being.

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-.

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-From Gangotri, I follow the Ganga...

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-..as it plunges down the mountains

-towards northern India...

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-..and the holy city of Haridwar.

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-The river descends

-about 13,000 feet...

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-..between Gangotri and Haridwar.

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-As you can see,

-the Ganga is far too ferocious...

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-..for me to think

-about travelling on it.

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-We have to stick to the road.

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-From what I've seen,

-it's just as dangerous.

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-The road is narrow,

-and the drop below is frightening.

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-In places, the road

-has worn away to almost nothing.

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-Other vehicles meet us

-at almost every corner.

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-Bus after bus, packed with pilgrims

-on their way to or from Gangotri.

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-There's hardly any room

-for two horses on this road...

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-..let alone two vehicles.

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-At least the Government has erected

-signs to warn you of the dangers.

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-As the sun sets, I relax a little.

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-At least I can't see

-the sheer drop in the darkness.

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-After spending the night in a tent

-on the riverbank...

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-..I stretch my legs

-before returning to the car.

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-The riverbank is a hive of activity.

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-Men use the river as a quarry

-to collect stones for construction.

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-A mother and her children

-wash clothes in the water.

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-In these valleys,

-there is little else.

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-The river is the only source

-of fresh water...

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-..for locals and their animals.

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-However, there are other benefits

-to be found here.

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-The river's sand sparkles brightly.

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-This is caused by the minerals which

-are washed down from the mountains.

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-It's carried as nourishment

-and deposited on land...

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-..as the Ganga winds its way

-down to the sea.

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-That allows it to feed the millions

-along its riverbank.

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-No wonder people think about

-the Ganga as a divine being...

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-..which brings so many blessings.

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-Finally, I reach Haridwar.

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-It's taken two days to travel

-140 miles from Gangotri to Haridwar.

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-It's an easier journey the

-other way, along the Indian plains.

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-Each year, this town

-attracts 18 million visitors.

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-Since so many people visit

-to bathe in the water...

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-..these steps, or ghats,

-were built...

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-..to help pilgrims

-in and out of the water.

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-This is the Har-Ki-Pauri.

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-It is a special ghat.

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-This is where

-the young, energetic river...

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-..leaves the mountains

-and comes of age...

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-..stretching majestically

-along the northern Indian plains.

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-This is a holy place.

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-However, take care before plunging

-into the river here.

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-In Haridwar,

-the current is so strong...

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-..that many people are washed away

-and drown every year.

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-But since every Hindu is expected

-to visit the Ganga...

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-..at least once in their life...

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-..families come here

-to fulfil their duties.

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-The town flourishes

-thanks to its tourist trade.

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-On the banks of the river,

-there are numerous priests...

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-..who perform ceremonies

-for visitors.

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-One of the most important

-is the mundan.

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-During this ceremony, one-year-old

-children have their heads shaved.

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-According to the Hindu faith,

-a baby's first hair...

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-..represents the sins

-we performed in a previous life.

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-To ensure we don't carry our sins...

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-..from the past to the present,

-the priest shaves the baby...

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-..and offers it to the Ganga

-for purification.

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-Families make a huge effort to

-ensure that the mundan ceremony...

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-..happens on the riverbank.

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-Before leaving Haridwar...

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-..I buy a gift as a memento.

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-These pots contain water

-from the river.

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-They are called Ganga jals.

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-This is no ordinary mineral water.

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-This isn't something to drink.

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-This is something to be used

-drop by drop.

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-Hindus believe that

-the smallest drop of Ganga jal...

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-..in your bath is both

-beneficial for your health...

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-..and eliminates all your sins.

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-While tourists like me

-pay for the pretty packaging...

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-..locals are far more sensible.

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-They buy plastic bottles

-and fill them themselves.

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-It is claimed

-that a bottle of Ganga jal...

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-..stays fresh for years once opened.

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-Some claim that mosquitoes

-can't live in the river's waters.

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-For Hindus, this is proof that the

-goddess Ganga is alive and well...

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-..in the river itself.

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-As night draws in over Haridwar...

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-..pilgrims gather for the nightly

-prayer service - the Ganga arti.

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-It literally means

-the worship of the river.

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-There are a number of stages

-in the ceremony.

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-It is a request for a blessing

-on one's whole family.

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-I was asked to chant

-"Om shivaya Ganga devaya namaha"...

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-..to make the blessing

-more effective.

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-It was odd being part of a ceremony

-without understanding a single word.

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-After all, in our tradition,

-the Word is all-important.

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-It was a pleasant experience

-nonetheless.

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-In the middle of such

-a mass expression of faith...

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-..it was hard not to think about

-the pollution of modern life...

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-..which threatens this holy river

-as it flows.

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-The following day,

-I follow the river...

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-..over the northern Indian plains.

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-After the winding roads

-of the Himalayas...

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-..it's nice to be

-on a straight road.

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-It's also nice being inside the car.

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-I've reached some

-of the most fertile land in Asia.

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-This is all thanks to the Ganga.

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-As the river flows down

-from the mountains...

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-..the silt that's carried

-in the water...

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-..is deposited over the fields

-and fertilizes the land.

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-The natural fertility

-of the river...

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-..also sustains a different type

-of fertility.

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-Here, in Uttar Pradesh...

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-..India's population growth

-is at its most intense.

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-In the middle of this bustling

-market, it's plain to see.

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-If this growth continues,

-India, not China...

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-..will become the world's most

-populated country in 20 years' time.

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-This sudden increase

-threatens the river.

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-India's industry and economy...

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-..is growing as quickly

-as its population.

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-It is poisoning the river...

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-..and the people who rely on it.

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-.

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-Kanpur is the first large city

-on the Ganga.

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-It's home to 3 million people

-and a flourishing leather industry.

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-The city has been built on India's

-most fertile agricultural land...

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-..giving it a plentiful supply

-of animal skin.

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-There are over 350 tanneries

-in Kanpur...

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-..producing leather

-worth 200m per annum.

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-However, for the people

-who live and work here...

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-..the poisonous waste of

-the factories threatens their lives.

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-With poisonous smoke

-rising from the chimneys...

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-..the number of people with lung

-disease is extremely high here.

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-The effect on the river

-is just as serious.

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-Legally, the tanneries must treat

-their waste before disposing it...

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-..but more than half don't.

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-All kinds of pollution

-enter the river...

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-..from animal hides

-to carcinogenic chemicals.

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-They flow from the gutters

-straight into the river.

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-A few kilometres from Kanpur

-is the fishing village of Nadar Pur.

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-It's an entirely different world.

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-It's the cleanest

-and tidiest place along the Ganga.

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-However, there is a problem here...

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-..which I noticed

-as I watched the villagers fish.

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-Kishan Pal Kashyap has been

-a fisherman throughout his life.

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-He explained to me

-how things had changed.

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-We used to watch our fathers

-fishing here.

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-They had to take their fish home

-in buffalo carts.

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-They would catch big fish

-weighing 20 kilos.

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-It was impossible

-to carry them sometimes.

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-Then, as we grew up,

-fish numbers dwindled.

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-Some species don't swim here

-any more...

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-..because of the filthy water

-in Kanpur.

0:25:480:25:51

-Sometimes, we find piles

-of dead fish on the riverbank.

0:25:510:25:55

-It stinks here.

0:25:550:25:57

-One of the few fish

-that can still live in the water...

0:26:040:26:08

-..is this one.

0:26:090:26:10

-The rohu.

0:26:110:26:13

-When these are caught,

-their flesh is poisoned.

0:26:130:26:16

-Sometimes, we think,

-"OK, there's nothing else."

0:26:200:26:24

-"We'll eat this."

0:26:240:26:26

-But the flesh is disgusting -

-it makes our children ill.

0:26:260:26:30

-The people of Nadar Pur

-know better than most...

0:26:350:26:38

-..about the effect of pollution

-on the Ganga...

0:26:380:26:41

-..but they can't escape from it.

0:26:410:26:43

-They rely on the river

-to sustain them.

0:26:430:26:47

-When we're out fishing...

0:26:490:26:51

-..this is the only water

-we can drink.

0:26:520:26:55

-When you place your hand

-in the water, it stinks.

0:26:560:26:59

-You can feel the animal fat

-floating in it.

0:26:590:27:02

-Your hand is filthy

-and the water is disgusting.

0:27:030:27:06

-It makes you sick.

-It's not fit for human consumption.

0:27:060:27:10

-When you cup a handful of water,

-you can see the animal fat.

0:27:110:27:15

-The Ganga is so polluted...

0:27:200:27:22

-..it's impossible to make a living

-as an angler.

0:27:220:27:26

-Kishan has turned to farming...

0:27:270:27:30

-..but even the land

-has been poisoned by the river...

0:27:300:27:34

-..as the crops are irrigated by it.

0:27:340:27:37

-We want to use the sand to grow

-cucumbers, melons and vegetables.

0:27:410:27:45

-When you plant seeds in the soil,

-they don't germinate.

0:27:450:27:49

-If they do germinate,

-the plant grows to a certain size...

0:27:490:27:54

-..and then dies.

0:27:540:27:56

-That's the way it is.

-Life is hell for us.

0:28:000:28:03

-The future is bleak

-for Kishan and his family...

0:28:090:28:12

-..and Kanpur's

-leather industry grows.

0:28:130:28:15

-The economic growth attracts

-thousands of people to the city.

0:28:210:28:26

-This only serves

-to exacerbate the problem.

0:28:270:28:30

-The population of Kanpur

-produce their own pollution.

0:28:310:28:36

-Tonnes of sewage every day.

0:28:360:28:38

-Much of it is poured

-straight into the river.

0:28:390:28:43

-Here in Kanpur, like many

-other areas along the Ganga...

0:28:550:28:59

-..bathing is important

-to local Hindus.

0:29:000:29:02

-Myself - I wouldn't dip

-my big toe in this river...

0:29:030:29:06

-..because I know that

-the city's main sewage pipe...

0:29:060:29:10

-..empties its contents

-into the river over there.

0:29:100:29:13

-Here, in the city's hospital...

0:29:210:29:23

-..the effect of Kanpur's pollution

-can be clearly seen.

0:29:240:29:27

-About 300 people come here daily

-for treatment for lung diseases...

0:29:280:29:33

-..caused by pollution in the air.

0:29:330:29:36

-Even more contract illnesses

-carried in the river's waters.

0:29:380:29:42

-Women and children suffer the most.

0:29:450:29:49

-Dr Kiran Pandey is an obstetrician.

0:29:520:29:56

-She sees first-hand the effect

-pollution has on the population.

0:29:560:30:02

-If the water is polluted

-and people drink it...

0:30:050:30:08

-..pollution enters the body.

0:30:080:30:10

-Parasites live in the water.

0:30:120:30:14

-Diarrhoea and viral diseases

-come from the water.

0:30:150:30:18

-In addition to the diseases

-carried in the water...

0:30:230:30:27

-..the river is full of chemicals.

0:30:270:30:29

-The water people drink is treated...

0:30:320:30:35

-..but it contains high levels

-of chromium which can cause cancer.

0:30:350:30:40

-The untreated water...

0:30:400:30:42

-..the water

-which irrigates the crops...

0:30:420:30:45

-..contains 64 times more arsenic

-and 120 times more mercury...

0:30:460:30:51

-..than international guidelines

-permit.

0:30:510:30:54

-These chemicals

-not only cause illnesses...

0:30:560:30:59

-..but they also destroy

-the nourishment in the crops.

0:31:000:31:03

-For these women,

-polluted water leads to a poor diet.

0:31:040:31:07

-About half the patients

-have anaemia.

0:31:090:31:13

-In a healthy person, the level

-of haemoglobin in the blood...

0:31:130:31:18

-..is between 11 and 13 milligrams.

0:31:180:31:21

-In India,

-and this area in particular...

0:31:220:31:25

-..where there are

-nourishment problems...

0:31:250:31:28

-..we often see people with levels

-between one and three milligrams.

0:31:280:31:33

-This affects a child's growth

-in the womb.

0:31:350:31:38

-It could lead to women

-giving birth prematurely...

0:31:380:31:42

-..babies with low birth weight

-and babies who die at birth.

0:31:420:31:46

-The polluted river is responsible

-for many deaths in Kanpur.

0:31:520:31:58

-But the people can't afford

-to protest too much.

0:32:010:32:04

-The wealth of the tanneries

-drives the local economy.

0:32:040:32:08

-If the river is polluted...

0:32:090:32:12

-..well, so be it.

0:32:120:32:14

-Further down the river, there

-are cities where the economy...

0:32:170:32:21

-..relies just as much on pilgrims

-as it does on industry.

0:32:220:32:25

-Here, the polluted Ganga

-is an enormous problem.

0:32:260:32:31

-From Kanpur, I follow the Ganga

-to the holy town of Allahabad.

0:32:330:32:38

-This is where the Yamuna

-joins the Ganga...

0:32:400:32:44

-..and the invisible Saraswati.

0:32:440:32:47

-According to the Hindu scriptures...

0:32:470:32:51

-..the gods and the devil

-fought here...

0:32:510:32:54

-..releasing some

-eternal nourishment in Allahabad.

0:32:540:32:59

-It's busy here today...

0:33:000:33:02

-..but it's even busier when

-the festival of Kumbh Mela is held.

0:33:020:33:06

-It attracts millions of people

-who bathe in the river.

0:33:070:33:10

-The Kumbh Mela of 2007

-attracted 70 million people.

0:33:130:33:17

-It was possibly

-the world's largest gathering.

0:33:180:33:22

-The most important event

-of the festival is the royal bath.

0:33:250:33:29

-Pilgrims who bathe

-during this ceremony...

0:33:290:33:33

-..grant the goddess Ganga

-an important favour.

0:33:330:33:36

-When she agreed to descend to earth

-to purify mankind...

0:33:360:33:41

-..she asked who would purify her?

0:33:410:33:44

-It was decided that the sadhus

-would undertake the work.

0:33:450:33:49

-This is the royal bath.

0:33:490:33:51

-As they bathe,

-sadhus absorb the river's sins...

0:33:530:33:57

-..into themselves.

0:33:570:33:59

-During the 2007 Kumbh Mela,

-things didn't go to plan.

0:34:030:34:07

-Because of the pollution and rubbish

-floating in the Ganga...

0:34:090:34:13

-..pilgrims were so fed up,

-they refused to bathe...

0:34:140:34:18

-..until the authorities

-cleaned the waters.

0:34:180:34:22

-Some threatened to kill themselves.

0:34:230:34:25

-In panic, the authorities

-opened a dam further up the river...

0:34:270:34:31

-..to increase the flow

-and wash away some of the pollution.

0:34:310:34:35

-The sadhus backed down

-and the festival continued.

0:34:360:34:39

-Their protest was an important

-milestone in the river's history.

0:34:440:34:48

-Even the most religious pilgrims

-were ready to compromise...

0:34:480:34:53

-..their faith

-in the river's purity...

0:34:530:34:56

-..because of the true condition

-of the water.

0:34:560:34:59

-As I approach

-the end of my journey...

0:35:040:35:06

-..this is the paradox

-that sticks in my mind.

0:35:060:35:09

-Why do people who worship the river

-so readily pollute it?

0:35:100:35:14

-.

0:35:160:35:16

-888

0:35:200:35:20

-888

-

-888

0:35:200:35:22

-The holy city of Varanasi is

-journey's end for me and the Ganga.

0:35:280:35:33

-And for countless others.

0:35:340:35:36

-It's 80 miles from Allahabad

-to Varanasi.

0:35:420:35:44

-It's the last resting place

-for many Hindus.

0:35:450:35:48

-It has its own university

-and silk industry...

0:35:530:35:57

-..but these aren't

-the city's main attractions.

0:35:570:36:00

-I knew before arriving...

0:36:010:36:03

-..that Varanasi was one

-of the Ganga's holiest cities.

0:36:040:36:07

-There are over a hundred ghats

-along the riverbank for pilgrims...

0:36:080:36:12

-..but I didn't expect

-the city to be so beautiful.

0:36:120:36:15

-Apparently, the Ganga

-cherished this city so much...

0:36:180:36:22

-..it turned back on itself

-so that it could stay here.

0:36:220:36:26

-Staying here is the aim

-of many since then.

0:36:280:36:32

-They say that if you die

-on the banks of the Ganga...

0:36:340:36:37

-..in Varanasi, your soul

-rises straight to heaven.

0:36:370:36:41

-Because of this,

-many old and sick people...

0:36:410:36:45

-..flock here to live out

-their final days.

0:36:450:36:48

-This is true of these women.

0:36:510:36:53

-While they stay here,

-for months or years on end...

0:36:540:36:58

-..they are looked after

-by this man - Surendra Peasad.

0:36:590:37:03

-The old people here believe

-that if they distance themselves...

0:37:070:37:11

-..from their family,

-they move closer to God.

0:37:110:37:14

-If you sacrifice one thing,

-you receive another.

0:37:140:37:19

-People come here

-to move closer to God.

0:37:190:37:22

-Surendra cares for them

-while they are alive...

0:37:280:37:31

-..and also after they die.

0:37:320:37:34

-When these people die, Surendra

-grants them their final wish...

0:37:350:37:40

-..by organizing their cremation

-on the riverbank.

0:37:400:37:44

-This is the Manikarnika ghat,

-where most bodies are cremated.

0:37:490:37:54

-Before even reaching the ghats,

-I was sweating pints...

0:37:560:38:00

-..as the midday temperature

-reached 45 degrees Celsius.

0:38:000:38:04

-How difficult is life for the men

-who build these bonfires...

0:38:050:38:10

-..day and night?

0:38:100:38:12

-These men belong

-to the untouchable caste.

0:38:160:38:22

-In India...

0:38:240:38:25

-..the untouchables have

-the lowest status of all castes...

0:38:260:38:29

-..but here, in Manikarnika...

0:38:300:38:31

-..they are respected by everyone.

0:38:320:38:34

-Whether rich or poor,

-from a high or low caste...

0:38:390:38:43

-..the dead rely on these workers

-to help their souls reach heaven.

0:38:430:38:48

-As I walk along

-the back streets to the ghats...

0:38:520:38:55

-..Surendra explains

-how the funeral system works.

0:38:550:38:59

-For one payment of 1,000 rupees...

0:39:040:39:06

-..around 12...

0:39:060:39:08

-..you can buy as much firewood,

-incense and manpower...

0:39:080:39:12

-..as you require.

0:39:120:39:14

-Surendra invited me to watch

-the ceremony from the sidelines.

0:39:240:39:29

-There was something odd

-in watching a stranger's funeral.

0:39:300:39:34

-Then again,

-amidst the hustle and bustle...

0:39:340:39:37

-..it was like attending

-a public funeral.

0:39:370:39:40

-After placing the corpses

-on the bonfire...

0:39:450:39:48

-..the fire is lit

-from a nearby eternal flame...

0:39:480:39:52

-..which, according to legend,

-has been burning for an eternity.

0:39:520:39:57

-In the meantime, the chief

-mourner, usually the eldest son...

0:39:590:40:05

-..shaves his head

-as a symbol of his loss.

0:40:050:40:08

-Then, he lights the holy straw

-from the eternal flame...

0:40:100:40:15

-..and ignites the bonfire.

0:40:160:40:18

-In the heat of the fire,

-the departed's soul...

0:40:250:40:29

-..rises to heaven.

0:40:290:40:31

-Here, the ceremony of death

-is surrounded by everyday life.

0:40:410:40:46

-It's not pushed to the sidelines

-as is the case in our culture.

0:40:470:40:51

-Earlier, I saw a grandfather

-barking swimming instructions...

0:40:510:40:57

-..to his grandson...

0:40:570:40:59

-..and corpses being burned

-only a few yards away.

0:41:000:41:04

-I can't imagine that happening

-in Wales.

0:41:040:41:07

-That's what I saw on the banks

-of this remarkable river.

0:41:070:41:11

-After the cremation, the ashes

-are scattered on the river.

0:41:180:41:24

-Mourners leave without looking back.

0:41:240:41:27

-In the meantime, workers

-rummage through the charcoal...

0:41:270:41:31

-..for gold teeth and other gems.

0:41:320:41:34

-Ashes aren't the only human remains

-floating in the river.

0:41:400:41:44

-Pregnant women and young babies

-are believed to be without sin.

0:41:470:41:52

-Since they have no need

-for purification by fire...

0:41:520:41:56

-..their corpses are released

-straight into the river.

0:41:560:42:00

-Yet, every morning,

-Hindus gather to bathe in the river.

0:42:090:42:14

-They are drawn by their faith

-in the water's purity.

0:42:150:42:19

-One of them

-is Professor Bhadra Mishra.

0:42:230:42:27

-When he was 14, in accordance

-with family tradition...

0:42:280:42:33

-..he became a Hindu priest.

0:42:330:42:35

-Professor Mishra

-is also an hydraulic engineer.

0:42:350:42:40

-The first question I asked him...

0:42:420:42:44

-..was how did he reconcile

-his faith in the river's purity...

0:42:450:42:49

-..with his scientific knowledge?

0:42:490:42:52

-It's like this -

-the people who worship the Ganga...

0:42:520:42:55

-..in the same way that fish

-cannot survive without water...

0:42:560:43:00

-..they cannot live

-without the river.

0:43:000:43:03

-I won't break with that tradition...

0:43:030:43:06

-..but I realize

-that the river is polluted.

0:43:060:43:09

-It's my duty to stop the pollution.

0:43:090:43:13

-According to Professor Mishra...

0:43:170:43:19

-..the main problem lies

-with the authorities' attitude.

0:43:190:43:24

-This is the greatest problem.

0:43:250:43:27

-95% of the pollution happens because

-in many parts of the river...

0:43:270:43:33

-..sewage and industrial chemicals

-are released into the water.

0:43:330:43:37

-Over 1m litres of sewage is released

-into the river every second.

0:43:410:43:47

-Shocked by the apathy

-of the authorities...

0:43:480:43:51

-..Professor Mishra has opened

-his own research laboratory...

0:43:520:43:56

-..next door to his temple.

0:43:560:43:58

-Here, they test water samples

-for fecal coliform...

0:43:580:44:02

-..bacteria which lives in sewage.

0:44:020:44:05

-The bacteria can cause

-all sorts of illnesses...

0:44:070:44:11

-..such as typhoid and hepatitis.

0:44:110:44:13

-Tests shows that the levels

-of fecal coliform in Varanasi...

0:44:160:44:20

-..are 160 times higher than

-international guidelines permit.

0:44:200:44:27

-The root of the problem

-is poor town planning.

0:44:330:44:36

-In Varanasi, the city's

-electricity supply often fails.

0:44:390:44:43

-Without it,

-the sewage treatment works closes.

0:44:430:44:46

-The sewage is then poured

-straight into the river.

0:44:470:44:50

-This is in addition to the corpses

-and the rubbish evident all around.

0:44:540:45:00

-The problem is so serious, ordinary

-people can't find a solution...

0:45:030:45:08

-..but because of their love for

-the river, they do what they can.

0:45:080:45:13

-The paradox of the situation

-strikes me once again.

0:45:240:45:28

-According to the scriptures,

-the river in Varanasi...

0:45:290:45:34

-..can purify souls.

0:45:340:45:36

-Scientific research

-and this disgusting sight...

0:45:360:45:40

-..prove that the water

-isn't pure at all.

0:45:400:45:43

-Does the Hindu faith

-shield followers...

0:45:480:45:52

-..from the dangers they face?

0:45:520:45:55

-According to Dr Mishra,

-it's not as simple as that.

0:45:580:46:01

-Today, if I tell the people

-that the Ganga is polluted...

0:46:030:46:08

-..within seconds, they will reply,

-"Don't say such a thing.

0:46:080:46:14

-"You're insulting

-the goddess Ganga."

0:46:140:46:17

-If I show them where

-the sewage flows into the river...

0:46:170:46:21

-..and say, "Look at this"...

0:46:210:46:23

-..they reply, "This is terrible.

0:46:230:46:27

-"Sewage shouldn't be allowed

-to enter the Ganga."

0:46:270:46:31

-If we can harness the respect

-and love for this river...

0:46:310:46:35

-..it could be a power

-that can help us in so many ways.

0:46:360:46:39

-If love can save this river,

-there's still hope.

0:46:460:46:49

-No other river

-is loved as much as the Ganga.

0:46:510:46:55

-Can 4,000 years of faith

-in the purity of the water...

0:46:590:47:03

-..overcome the apathy

-of the modern age?

0:47:030:47:06

-Pollution is just one of the

-problems that need to be solved.

0:47:100:47:15

-If global warming continues...

0:47:160:47:18

-..the very future of the Ganga

-will be under threat.

0:47:190:47:22

-As the river flows from Varanasi

-towards its delta in Bangladesh...

0:47:250:47:30

-..the effects of global warming

-can be seen today...

0:47:300:47:34

-..in the floods experienced

-in these areas.

0:47:340:47:38

-In years to come, drought and not

-floods will be the main problem.

0:47:400:47:44

-Back in Gangotri

-where I started my journey...

0:47:440:47:48

-..the Himalayan glaciers

-are retreating.

0:47:480:47:52

-Experts are adamant that

-if the glaciers continue to melt...

0:47:520:47:57

-..the source of the Ganga

-will disappear within 25 years.

0:47:570:48:02

-It's a catastrophe which was

-predicted in the Hindu scriptures.

0:48:030:48:08

-According to one tradition...

0:48:090:48:11

-..a time will come when the Ganga

-cannot wash away human sins.

0:48:110:48:15

-Then, it will disappear

-underground...

0:48:180:48:21

-..to safeguard its purity

-until the next age.

0:48:210:48:24

-That belief could well be realized

-in today's India.

0:48:240:48:30

-S4C subtitles by Simian 04

0:49:090:49:12

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0:49:120:49:12

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